Hearted Youtube comments on Rainman Ray's Repairs (@RainmanRaysRepairs) channel.
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I am soooo Thankful and relieved... I'm thanking Master Mechanic Rainman Ray!!! Our car would start only sporadically, after alot of trying, and we had a hellova time worrying about getting to Dr.s, or anywhere, and then having to get home. It's been an ongoing heavy worry, and I can't even tell you how it got our blood pressure up every time we had to go somewhere, especially if we have to go to the hospital (we have many health issues)! Ted's been watching Ray's repair videos for a few years now, and knew Ray is an excellent mechanic. Well, long story short, we called and got an appt. We were in their office talking with them for an hour, and knew in our hearts we could trust him. When Ted got online this morning, this video of our car repair was up!!! And OMG! All I can do is tell you, if you're in the Bradenton area, and you have engine issues, I HIGHLY recommend Ray! It's hard to find honest, great, repairmen nowadays, and I can vouch for Ray, big time 🙂 Thank You Ray!!!! ❤
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I had one kid drop off his beat-to-hell BMW e39 540i touring late one Thursday night after making an appointment for diagnostics over the phone. First thing the next morning I walked around the car and took photos of everything, even the cluster with service indicator, mileage, CEL, and other warning lights. Got it in on the lift and took a few more pics and wrote up an estimate for everything. The kid showed up with his buddy after school on Friday afternoon, paid the diagnostic fee and took the car without saying a word. I get a call Monday morning from some guy screaming at me about what we did to his son's immaculate car, threatening to kick our asses and sue us and drag our business through the mud, etc. Once I was able to calm him down, I sent him the photos and video we took of his son's "pristine" car covered in dew in the parking lot. He changed his tune pretty quickly and eventually apologized and told us the car was "perfect" when he gave it to his son 6 months prior, but admitted to not having seen it in 3-4 months since. There's been a few other times where the customer legitimately discovered damage to their vehicle caused by a spouse or child when we did our walkaround, and I got the gut feeling a few other times I foiled someone's attempt at defrauding the shop. I don't tolerate thieves or fraudsters.
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as a teenager I spun a rod bearing, over revved engine, was too poor to buy new motor, or used motor. so I pulled oil pan, & bought 1 rod bearing, back then you could get 1 bearing, 35+ years ago, I polished crank with wet/dry 600 grit paper, lubricated with kerosene, & used a shoestring wrapped around paper on rod journal. it worked. now when I put new rod bearing in, rod was loose on crankshaft, so I removed & took the cap & sanded cap on 400 grit paper, glued to a piece of glass, I know I only did 1 side, but I managed to tighten clearances, & I drove car for over 25k miles without issues, I was always afraid to mash throttle too hard, & it lasted until I was able to get another car & was a little more financially stable. the car was a 1964 Impala, & that engine is still in it, & it has been siting close to 30 years in my back yard.
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Diesel Peeps
Do you know what DEF fluid is? It's Diesel Exhaust Fluid. Every Diesel truck that has been made since 2010 is required to use it. It's a product made of 67% Urea fertilizer and 33% distilled water. Every diesel truck you see driving down the road today has to have this product to drive. The engines won't start without it. There are regulators inside the engine that mix DEF with the Diesel to reduce Diesel emissions. That's the purpose of DEF.
Right now, Russia is the largest exporter of Urea by a wide margin. Qatar is second. Egypt and China are Tied for 3rd. Both Russia and China have decided to no longer export Urea. On top of that, India is the largest manufacturer of Urea in the world even though they consume most of what they make. What little they would export..........they no longer do. They are now stopping the exportation of any and all Urea minus a deal they just cut with Sri Lanka.
What does this mean for you and me? Well, first, the United States imports most of it's Urea fertilizer. We are the third largest importer in the entire world. We depend on other countries to eat, drive and ship our products.
Secondly... Flying J is the largest Service provider for Truckers around the Unites States. I'm sure you've seen their massive gas stations when traveling around the country. Flying J gets 70% of their DEF fluid from shipments via Union Pacific railroad. UP has single user access to the Fertilizer plants that Urea/DEF fluid comes from. No other rail provider has access to these distribution points. This means Flying J can't just go around Union Pacific. Union Pacific is in charge....for a reason I'm gonna mention in a few paragraphs.
Flying J provides 30% of all DEF consumed in the United States. UP has told Flying J to reduce their shipments by a whopping 50%. And if they do not comply then they will be completely embargoed. That would in effect bankrupt FJ. This means that 15% of all DEF consumed by truckers in the US is no longer available at the largest travel service center for the entire trucking industry.
Rome rotted from the inside out. It was easily invaded because it was occupied with internal problems. It appears we have discovered the Trigger. DEF fluid. If this holds up, DEF shortages will be the catalyst that causes food shortages in the coming months. Not only is there a shortage of fertilizer to grow crops in drought-stricken states (See Kansas' drop in wheat production for 2022)....but....now it looks like, unless the Federal Government intervenes via the Defense Production Act, ...which I am no longer confident they will....there is gonna be an absolute massive shortage of trucking in the coming months.
There simply isn't going to be DEF fluid sufficient to keep the engines running and moving. Home Depot is now limiting the amount of DEF you can buy in their stores.
I would think long and hard about the decisions you are making right now. Where you live. What you spend money on. How you prepare. This is so real that the CEO of Flying J, Shameek Konar was summoned to a Surface Transportation Board hearing to give them all this info.
From what I'm reading....Blackrock is the majority shareholder of Union Pacific railroad. How is that important? Americas biggest fertilizer producer is CF Industries. Their largest shareholder is Blackrock. Blackrock controls the fertilizer industry in the U.S.. Union Pacific has exclusive rights to distribution points of fertilizer. Urea is fertilizer. Flying J needs Urea/DEF. Blackrock is controlling everything.
The Chairman of the BlackRock Investment Institute is Tom Donilon, President Obama’s former National Security Advisor. Tom Donilon’s brother, Mike Donilon is a Senior Advisor to Joe Biden. Tom Donilon’s wife, Catherine Russell, is the White House Personnel Director. Tom Donilon’s daughter, Sarah Donilon, who graduated college in 2019, now works on the White House National Security Council.
It appears Blackrock is spearheading the dismantling of the US system on behalf of the Globalists. And the first domino they are pushing over is the energy sector. They are using DEF to get the party started.
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3 months ago, I wouldn’t have dared to try any body work, or repairs, it all just seemed overwhelming. After watching Ray, I started telling myself, “I can do that,” and the journey began, because of Ray, I totally refurbished my 1994 Chevy Silverado, and now she runs and looks beautiful. On my Nissan Altima 2014, I pulled the front bumper, replaced the grill that was damaged, painted and clear coated it, then put it back on, without losing any pins, screws, and bolts (none leftover). Now the front of the Altima looks brand new. My next project is to tackle my son’s front bumper. Thanks Ray for the confidence and the ton of money I saved by DYIing everything myself.
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From someone who has done this: First things first Ray, before you start your own business, make sure your wife and family are all as committed as you are to this! Then get yourself a good business attorney and an accountant familiar with the automotive repair business. Then start talking to people who own and operate small businesses in the automotive field about what they went through when they first branched out on their own, i.e, what worked and what didn't work. Remember that the only thing that will trump your reputation as an automotive technician is location, location, location and a facility with good curb appeal. Also connect with a good and creative graphic design artist who can think outside the box, to help you with a business name, catchy graphics, business cards, flyers and signs. Develop two-way relationships with the vendors you will use, gas stations, and other repair shops. Be careful at the beginning, don't take on more than you alone can comfortably handle, either in debt, or the amount of work you will have to do. Being an owner and proprietor of a small business is much different than being an employee! I feel from your videos that you will do well. Also, make videos of everything while you get a personal business up and running smoothly. So many people will benefit from these business start-up videos. Good Luck!!
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Well Ray, I never comment, but want to now. I'm in New Zealand, only known about your channel since Watch Wes Work mentioned you a while back. Now, you and Wes are my favourite channels out of the 60 odd I subscribe to. Your quality of workmanship, your intelligence, and your gift of the gab, make for a very interesting watch each video. I look forward to each of your videos, and to be honest YouTube wouldn't be the same without you. No matter what you pursue, you will succeed, and make it interesting to us, that's for sure. Myself, and 300,000 others will be by your side. Take a break, enjoy life, then come back to provide us with the fine entertainment (and teaching) that you do so naturally. Thank You Sir, and I wish you the very best with your choices!
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I've resisted the urge to comment on the videos involving welding until now. The comments are out of hand on this one. Yes, I am a professional welder just to get that out of the way first. tl/dr version: this temporary fix was fine.
Long version:
-Keep in mind this is a temporary fix, he said so.
-The amount of heat he put into the lbj was not enough to anneal the socket or the ball, just the outer bits where the splines are. Since it is being anchored by the weld at those points anyway, who cares.
-If the grease had boiled, there very likely would have been evidence of this visible from the camera vantage point.
-General safety bs: gimme a break, not even going into detail on that except to say the actual danger was incredibly minimal.
-Weld quality was fine. Strong does not always equal pretty. Appearance was not an issue here anyway because a)he explained the situation to the owner, who is really the only one who matters, and b)who is going to see that aside from another technician. He nailed the joint and got enough penetration to get the job done for its intended purpose. This weld repair will very likely last longer than the lbj.
-The only thing I personally would have done differently is position the welds in spots that would make it easier to cut them out if that became necessary, which is unlikely in this case.
Nice work Ray, nothing wrong with what you did, in my opinion. Love your videos, love your work ethic. Keep 'em coming.
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I liked your battery terminal story. Can I share one of my own?
Pre-Covid I was cruising my convertible around the lake one evening and ended up coming home later than usual which meant I had my headlights on. Sitting at a stop light with my turn signal on, I noticed that the dash lights were dimming in time with the turn signal which told me there was a low battery issue. But I knew the battery was good so when I got home I went to throw it on the charger and realized the negative terminal was loose. I had removed it to work on something a week or two ago while working on the car and afterwards I put the terminal back on to do a road test but never tightened it down. Okay, great, that's probably what the problem is, right?
But the next day the dealer calls and says I'm overdue for an oil change. I actually changed my own oil so I wasn't due, but I figured, "hell, I might as well let them double check my charging issue and get a free multi-point." So I schedule an appointment and drop off the car.
Later, I get a call from the service advisor. "So the car isn't starting?" The guy asks. I explain: "No, the car starts fine. I just had one instance where the dash lights were dimming. I think the problem was just a loose battery terminal but wanted you guys to check that the alternator is working okay."
"Okay, we'll check it out and I'll call you back."
Later the service advisor calls back. "So I've got your SLK here with the no-start condition..." he begins. Whoo boy...
"but the technician tested the battery and it's fine so the car is okay to come pick up," he tells me.
I said, "no, I know there's nothing wrong with the battery because I just replaced it a year ago and I charged it before I brought the car in. And there wasn't a no-start condition. I wanted you to test the alternator. Can ask the technician if he checked the alternator to make sure it's charging the battery?"
He says, "okay, I'll talk to him and we'll have an answer by the time you get here."
Well, you can guess the rest of the story. I got there and the service advisor was happy to tell me the car started no problem and the he talked to the technician who told him the battery tested good so I'm all good to go.
Ugh, whatever. The cherry on top was they then couldn't find the car in the lot for 10 minutes and gave me my key fob back broken.
I sometimes hate service advisors.
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Ray, I just wanted to say: There ain't nothin' better than waking up to a new video from you, and having my morning coffee and cigarette while watching you take stuff apart.
That said, keep showing the vlog format. The people complaining actually aren't considering: Sometimes you might miss something on a repair, or need help diagnosing a problem. Eric O. in New York has had a few videos where that's happened, and I believe you have as well. So what I'm saying is, the longer videos give us armchair, or actual techs, the opportunity to exercise our skills right along with you.
And for that, I, at least, am grateful.
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Like you, I am a MECP certified installer (both audio/video as well as security specialist), though I left the business in 2014 after 25 years due to physical pain caused by getting under too many dashes, and I totally concur with your assessment. Also, I have stopped the video at the point he is getting in the truck and listing the customer complaints. The first thing I noticed was Ray saying that series wiring lowers the impedance and parallel raises it, which is totally backward and incorrect. The two 2ohm speakers he showed, if wired in parallel, will drop the impedance seen by the amp to 1ohm, which he mentioned is what the amp is built for. I will play the video momentarily to see if Ray catches this.
The first thing, though, that comes to my mind, is NEVER take a vehicle to a mechanic to get the audio system repaired. No offense to Ray, but we are specialized experts in the field of automotive electronics. Mechanics do not do on a daily basis, or even weekly or monthly, what we do daily and for years. We have studied our craft and we know the details. We have been specifically tested in our knowledge of automotive electronics. Ray knows far more than I do about automotive repairs, and I would be happy to have him work on any of my vehicles at any time, but I guarantee you that we know more, by a factor of 10, about automotive electronics than he will ever know. If you want expert advice and proper installations of automotive electronics, take your car to an MECP certified installer.
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I have found that either diesel, or kerosene works great in a pump spray bottle to help flush as much of this gunk out, a garden sprayer with a simple copper tube works great to get into the oil drain hole.. obviously removing the pan is ideal, however not cost effective on some vehicles. another good option is to put a quart of system lube cleaner like liqi-moly, or seafoam... run it for 20 minutes and flush the oil out. do this for the next 2-3 oil changes.. another "farmer trick" was to fillt he entire engine block with kerosene, or diesel, (fill, or at least spray in cylinders some MMO), and let it sit for a few days. then drain it all out, fill with new oil, change filters.. would free up some mildly stuck motors, and remove any sludge in the crankcase.
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Although I am not an advocate of torque stick use, you sir are a class "A" idiot. Experience trumps all, understanding the power output and ability of yourself and your tools is what allows Ray to complete jobs accordingly. I was educated through an apprenticeship program here in Canada, for the first 3 years of education they hammer you with torqueing properly etc, in the 4th an final year, they do not harp on torqueing at all. In fact, we joked about the things we had to torque to spec and talked about our skills and ability to "feel" fasteners etc. That comes with experience. Something I believe you may be lacking if you are referring to "chris fix" videos for your educational needs, its not a bad thing to be inexperienced, but to go on a tangent acting like you are correct is certainly wrong. Enter any shop in the industry and your eyes will be opened wide, Chris is repairing vehicles in his driveway, not professionally. He is a professional Influencer or content creator, not a professional mechanic.
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Thanks for sharing Ray, it certainly causes one to have a rethink when someone close passes. Vehicles have electronic everything these days, all of which do not like to have low voltage or batteries with diminished capacity. With everything controlled by a module of some sort, the criticalness of a good source of supply is paramount. A simple car circuit is no longer a thing in the modern vehicle. The days of the busted arse mechanic ended way too long ago, and rightly so. The modern mechanic is a technician, sadly an underpaid one. In Australia, mechanics wages have not remotely kept up with the additional technology, skills and knowledge required for the trade. I do not know what it is like in other countries, though I cannot see it being any different. I do see an Grease & Lube job as being a relatively cheap job, though anything above that is where the hourly rate needs to be in -line with the task, skills, knowledge and equipment to undertake the task.
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Love it, quadruple checking your own diagnostic work, gets the hard hat nod.
Also, for those who are here to acquire knowledge, this is good content.
And, in parting, wear safety squints when handling refrigerants, liquid refrigerant is bad for the human optics, very.
Frozen cornea's are not what you want to experience, been close to experiencing that, very real danger.
Gloves also recommended, it will cause frostbite before you realize what has happened, if a liquid line bursts while you have exposed skin near it.
And, then the wound essentially has to be treated in much the same way as a 3rd degree burn.
Be safe around refrigerants.
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Ray, hope you have a great long weekend. After watching many of your vids, I finally bought myself a cordless 1/2" impact😁 I should have bought one years ago. Living in the rust belt of Eastern Ontario, Canada, road salt is extremely hard on bolts and anything metal in particular. I am in the "process" of replacing the front brakes on my 2003 Silverado. What should be an easy peasy job is turning into a nightmare (just did all 4 rotors, pads, and calipers about 2 years ago, front wheel bearings 3 years ago) First of all, I get the front wheels off (used my new impact...worked awesome🤘) and noticed I had a broken front sway bar😲, end was broken, so ordered a new one, once again the impact was great, considering the sway bar was factory. Had to use a wheel puller to get the front left rotor off😜 I'm getting there, just waiting on parts to arrive.
I appreciate what a tech goes through when working on vehicle repairs that should be a walk in the park but in actuality turn out to be hell on earth😆 Always a treat to just sit down and watch one of your videos and to take a break from rusty parts😜 Have a good one.
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I'm about to fuck with you. 2 Master techs, and 3 journeyman all under the same roof for over 30 years (outside of me I ain't that old yet) using torque limiters to put wheels back on....
Not a single one has ever came off, the ones that come back for retorque the lugs didn't even budge. We test and replace the limiters as needed but since torque sticks started to be a thing all of them swear by it and have fixed more vehicles than you've ever touched.
We work on everything in this shop too, it's a GM shop but old classics, drag cars, grain trucks, RVs, fuck even boats and little electric scooters come in because we really don't care. If it's a vehicle of sorts we will work on it.
Now I'm gonna go and say it also looks like he used turquoise or w/e so that's torqued to 140 ft lbs.
Could be wrong, just looks like it. I haven't seen the video yet just seen your stupid ass comment pinned to the top because you still run an old mentality. You're the kind of guy that fizzles out in this field because you really can't keep up with shit at all or how things work.
Anyways, side note with Torque Limiters. Be careful on a-lot of dodges not to just ram (no pun intended) it after it stops. Those studs seem to like to stretch with time. I had a few lube bay guys fuck this up because they figure it's limiting it so I can just keep on going to be extra sure. I am the guy who uses a stick then checks with a Torque Wrench after, just how I am but I'll be damned if anymore idiots spread misinformation on tools based on their youtube favorites.
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I quit from a car dealership that was ripping people off. (TL;DR it's essentially the same story as Ray's video, with extra salt in the wound.)
21-years-old, Jeep service technician about 11-12 years ago. 1998 Chevrolet 1500 rolls in, wants NC state inspection. Pull rear drum brakes off, wheel cylinder is leaking badly enough to fail, essentially only had 3 brakes. Shoes/springs look about 50%, gonna call it just a R&R the wheel cylinder, advise customer get brakes checked again in a year.
Go to parts, have them call sister Chevrolet store 5 minutes down the road to get it coming, told service writer don't even bill them for the labor, it's about 2 minutes to swap. Wheel cylinder was $9. Go back to checking everything else. Front had a pad slap within a year or so it looked like, calipers looked OEM, checked fluids. Brake fluid is what GM poured in from the factory, and it's about to start sucking air.
Service manager notices things happening at this point, comes over, "What's going on?"
"It failed for a leaking wheel cylinder."
"Can't be, we just did a full brake service on this 10 months ago!"
points at inside of drum brake caked in brake dust and actively dripping onto 50% shoes. Then walks to front where rotors that have waves a surfer could catch and rust in a non rust belt vehicle are present. Points at 15 year-old brake fluid in master cylinder.
stares angrily at me for 10 seconds, walks off.
I paid for the parts to make the job whole, got new front pads/rotors, new shoes and spring kit, p/s wheel cylinder to match because it was seeping, which isn't a fail, but it's still not right. Chevy store has caught wind of this, sells it to me at cost, and sends customer a brand new set of some nice tires plus a spare, the fluid for the job on them, and a free oil change/tire rotation coupon. Parts manager paid my labor for all this.
This was in 2013, maybe 2014. The service manager just got fired for being a crook in January of this year.
Here's the kicker. The customer. 70~ish-year-old woman. This was her husband's truck. He just died and this was the first vehicle he ever bought new, so she wanted to essentially maintain its, apart from this fiasco, pristine condition.
We got her a shuttle home since she'd been there for about 90 minutes for a 15 minute job. Only when she had her keys did we break the whole truth. We only charged her the $30 for the inspection, legally obligated to charge it, re-inspection to pass is free within 90 days. She simply asked "Well, is all the work done right this time?"
"Yes."
"Thank you for your honesty. I think I will start taking it back to Chevy store."
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Some useless trivia for y'all! Did you know....the L87 V8 engine is part of GM’s Gen V Small Block engine architecture that’s known in trucks and SUVs as EcoTec3. It was first launched in the all-new 2019 Silverado 1500 (fourth generation) and 2019 Sierra 1500 (fourth generation).That said, lets get to the bad news on 4 of the most common problems on this marvel of automotive engineering..You'll never guess which problem made it on the list? lol!
1. Carbon build-up
2. *Lifter collapse / bent push rods (Problem with the truck in the video!)
3. A8 Transmission shuddering or vibrating
4. Other smaller / less common issues
Fuel injectors / fuel pumps
Engine mounts
Manifold bolts
Lower intake manifold gasket
*Lifter Collapse/Bent push rod: Lo and behold, another active fuel management related problem. Active fuel management, or AFM, is a fuel efficiency system that essentially turns off certain cylinders under certain driving conditions to improve fuel economy and eco-friendliness. It essentially turns your V8 into a V4 by completely shutting off 4 cylinders with the thought process that you will now see better fuel mileage since only half of the engine needs fuel.
It’s a great concept, but it’s had serious issues since it was released and the issues have continued into the EcoTec3 engine series. AFM deactivates these cylinders from the camshaft via a system of complex lifters. These lifters tend to be not so reliable and collapse / go bad frequently and can also result in the push rods, responsible for opening and closing the cylinders, to bend. If the lifters collapse or the push rods bend, the cylinder will not be able to open and close properly, leading to various performance and driveability related issues. While these issues are almost a guarantee on these 6.2L engines, they are covered under WARRANTY! We know how much dealership shops love warranty repairs! lol!
There is a link posted below that shows you how to disable/turn off the engines AFM (Active Fuel Management) for those of you willing to do it. Why Turn it Off you ask? There are a few reasons: Many people find the four-cylinder sound annoying if their vehicle is equipped with a louder aftermarket exhaust. Some drivers want V8 power under their foot at all times. AFM lifters have a history of failing and oil consumption can be a problem.
*Disable your Chevy/GM AFM: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/11/30/how-to-delete-or-disable-active-fuel-management-afm-on-gm-engines/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reference online article link for further details on this and the other problems listed. https://chevytrucks.org/chevy-ecotec3-6-2l-engine-problems/
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@scottbaker9066 if I had one like this, I would, and have, reported it to my shop manager to let him know it could possibly come back with a knock and the customer screaming bloody murder we destroyed her car, at that point, we'd document everything, call the customer and advise we can finish the job, but with the amount of crap in the oil pan, and no idea how long it's been circulating in the oiling system, it might not be long for this world. Sometimes you have to go into cover your ass mode to prevent a lawsuit. Rainmans repairs, if you read this, this is nothing on you, we are just recounting our own horror stories. This is one of those nightmare jobs
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EDIT:
You guys are having WAY too much fun TROLLING us into watching another OIL CHANGE video!!!!!
My 1991 S-15 Blazer had gazillions of grease fittings AND the same kind of oil cooling system. Those radiators were known for the oil cooling area being at the bottom of the radiator. If you hit something small that goes under the vehicle, you would lose your oil, but not your coolant.
It had the "big" 4.3L 6 cly that was one one of the best ICEs that Chevy ever made... IMO.
It's only flaws? They were known for coolant leaks just under the intake, and those last 2 DAMN spark plugs on the driver's side that were behind the steering column and brake booster. You needed to take off the front wheel, take off the splash guard, open the access panel, and use several "wobbly-bits" to get the DAMN things out. ALSO, the plugs had no washers on them, so TORQUE was SUPER important!!! I know this because I under torqued one on the passenger side, and it blew out on me in a snow storm, I had an old metal shelving unit in the back that I HAD to stand on to put the plug back in, along side the road, because I'm a short little fat girl... That truck ate an alternator in a snow storm on me too... Changed it in the parking lot of the Autozone 50 miles from home... Froze my phalanges off with the snow and wind 8:30 at night... I got 360,000 out of that little truck!!! It was so rusted.. I had to do the expanding foam modification on the body because I was FREEZING driving down the road with the cold air coming in through the body rust holes... BTW... I live about 3 hours East of Eric O.
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Love love LOVE this series! As a 5.4l 3v owner who's replaced all the timing components, oil pump, roller followers, lash adjusters, and the list goes on, this customer is so very lucky to have you! I can't imagine me, much less a shop, leaving so much broken, mis routed, and just totally wrong after someone else spent thousands, and that's just for the install. I shiver to think about the Fraser rebuilt engine. Wow, just wow!
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I've found that customers become hyper-sensitive of what their cars are doing, AFTER the bill punches their wallet in the face. Now, psychologically, they think that all their problems have been fixed. Happens frequently, especially for the people with expensive cars and a beer budget.
This customer probably hasn't looked down at the gauges in months, now they care about the car again, since their wallet hurts.
I see the gas gauge is at 1/2, probably added 20 bucks the day before and lost the gas cap. "But, but, it's gotta be your fault, you touched it last!"
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PROOF! Dealership Ripped off Customer!
Not so fast Ray!!!!
The dealership was literally only speaking figuratively.
Without specifying which way they were turned, the tech took the wheel off, , he literally omitted to say that he only figuratively turned each rotor by hand hand without saying not literally on the lathe while the rotors were literally still on the car .
Secondly..,
without specifying where the metal in the trans fluid came from..., the service tech at the dealership is right in figuratively saying that the transmission fluid literally do have some trace base elements of iron, cadmium, copper, magnesium, zinc etc...in it when the fluid is made
And thirdly.....
The customer was figuratively given 30% off nothing because the dealership literally did nothing.
Ergo....., 30% of nothing is still nothing so they literally cancel each other out which makes perfect sense..., that of course is just figuratively speaking....
All jokes aside,
I hope some day you win a lottery for being such an honest dude..
*Hits the Like Button*
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In 38 years of being an ASE certified Master Tech, I've never seen a lower gear that didn't have a key. But if that's the way they retain that, it's great because you can infinitely adjust the timing , but what a shitt design. Anyhoo, It's not that bad, you didn't run the motor, you just turned it by hand to bend the valves. That means there's only four valves that could have possibly bent in two cylinders.( all depends on where the cams were positioned when he spun it) Because it didn't run, there's minimal damage to the Pistons, my bet is there is none. Pull the head, replace the vent valves, new head gasket, and send it. My buddy had a Kia Soul, I was driving down I-95 when the timing belt snapped, bent like six or eight valves,( this thing was doing 75 mile an hour when the belt broke) got it towed to my house. I pulled the head off, pulled the valves out of the head that were bent, straighten them myself(!), lapped them in, put a head gasket kit in it, and sent it. That car is still driving down the road today. And I did it in one afternoon, with no air tools. Suck it up buttercup. $400 plus gaskets, for another motor, how about $20 a valve, I think you said you only bent one, so you only need one, and, that take 15 minutes to put in the head, and a gasket set, about $135. Seems like you made a lot more trouble than you needed to, even after the timing chain fuk up. I mean it's a 4-cylinder cylinder head. I could do two of these in an afternoon at my shop. I put Main and rod bearings in, in an afternoon. You just went way the hard way I guess.
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21:50 and onwards. Rant away, my friend! Back when I did both service writer and technician work, I had someone say, "Well, you're the mechanic, you figure it out!" indignantly.
I then told her I can, and will, figure it out. But the more info she gave me up front will save her time and money.
To her credit, she actually gave a thoughtful look, and gave me more info than she initially gave about her issue. Cost her a lot less to diag than it would have, and she became a regular. More info is good info, folks! It helps both of us.
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@garyparr5431 bending wires creates resistance. Absolutely. Go get a piece of aluminum wire, just for an extreme example, use it as a jumper for a 100w light bulb. Now put a 180° bend in it and wait a while. That bend will get warm. Not extreme, but heat is resistance. And when you're dealing with computer systems that measure instruments in minute frequencies, it'll read incorrectly.
Why do I know the aluminum trick? Well, because it's known fact, that's how some aluminum wired houses burn down. Someone came and put copper jumpers on to install Decora plugs and switches, then jammed all those marretts and extra wires into the already crowded boxes. Those crammed up wires get hot. Real hot.
Same principal...
And yes, a garden hose works in the exact same manner as electricity. Flow is voltage, and pressure is current. If you bend the hose and restrict flow, you increase the pressure. If the pressure increases greater than the capability of the hose it ruptures. If you bend a wire you create resistance, if the resistance increases beyond the capacity of the wire, it burns (obviously disregarding safety equipment.) Also, bending and kinking copper creates micro fractures in the copper surface. Electrons pass along the surface of the wire, not its core. If the surface becomes fractured the electrons cannot pass efficiently. It also creates a failure point in the wire that can break if overworked. Copper work hardens and becomes brittle.
If an inspector finds a wire kink from pulling a loop through a drill hole, he will point it out.
My sources are my electrical masters license, my carpentry license, and my education in metallurgy as a hobby machinist...
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How many "Mechanics" have done this, and just patched it up and sent it on?
Probably more than anyone would want to know.
But Ray has shown just how a real mechanic would handle a situation like this.
If I were the owner of the car, and Ray reached out to me about this, I'd tell him, to just make sure the replacement unit is up to spec, and that I'd pay for whatever the replacement block needed to make it so.
The reason I say this, is because Ray was going to have to do these things to the old block, because it was leaking all over the place, so it wouldn't be right, to make him pay for the things, that he was going to have to do anyway.
Also, make sure, that the replacement has had the head gaskets replaced, because that was a really bad flaw in those engines.
If you don't I guarantee, you'll be doing it, once you get the new engine done, then find it has a bad head gasket leak, which might've been why the engine was salvaged in the first place.
Other than that, the H-4 is a pretty bullet proof engine.
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Sorry for the long post, hope you see this for potential videos:
I am not sure if you have gotten this covered, but it would be interesting to get some frequently asked questions answered. Simple things like what cars have you owned, quality of your cars mechanically (always a myth(?) that mechanics are not the best to buy cars from for mechanical reasons), types of jobs you have worked, how many times you have changed shops (without naming them of course), how long you have been a mechanic, how have you acquired your tools (I've heard many mechanics need to get their own stuff), any special schooling you have done since you were a mechanic, and what got you into doing it as a job.
I am sure there are many more questions, but it would be interesting to hear about you.
Also, on a slow day, it would be interesting to hear about your personal tools and a walkthrough of what the non-common tools are for so that people can use the video to help build their own toolset based on their needs. I am always finding more and more things I need to purchase for my small setup just to do basic tasks as I change vehicles, as well as finding faster/easier tools I could get to make everything easier (best purchase was an electric ratchet and an impact by far for myself, was always a manual operation person)
Yes, I liked my own post to help promote these ideas.
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My 2nd job was at Jack in the Box, I got fired for stealing cups. STEALING CUPS! So Jack in the Crack was having some promotion with the movie “Star Trek: Generations” and they had these neat “collectible cups” for the movie. I wanted a full unused set of these cups ‘cause I’m a Star Trek nerd and each cup had different things on them like one had Captain Kirk, the other had Captain Picard etc. I asked the assistant manager if I could buy a set, they didn’t know how to sell me a set of these cups. I was like, fine, sell me (I think it was like 8 different cups) eight sodas with my employee discount and I’ll just take the cups home. It was at the end of my shift, the assistant manager was all “whatever, we’re busy, just take the cups and we’ll charge you later”. I didn’t feel comfortable doing that so I got the cups and stacked them together and put them in a bag and left them on the managers desk in her office and I figured on my next shift I’ll just ask her and buy the cups (sodas) then.
They call me in on my day off, I knew I was fired, whenever they call you in on your day off you’re being fired. I really hated that job, the people were ghetto people… So I go in and my manager said “because you stole these cups you are terminated.” I say “OK Thank You 🙂”, they were confused as hell, like I needed a job at Jack in the Crack so bad, I was in High School and just wanted some extra money. So as I was walking out of the office the manager hands me the cups and says they can’t use the cups so they’re mine anyways since I “stole them”, I laugh and throw the cups in her trash can and say “have a good one 🤓” and walk out and go home.
BTW that was like 25 years ago, those cups aren’t worth anything today, anything made as a collectible is never actually collectible so throwing them away was probably the best thing to do with them. 😎
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Wow, what a story! I haven't watched as many of Rich's videos as I have yours, but that is mainly due to finding them later. It's interesting what drives those of us who fix things. I was fortunate enough to have had a stable life growing up, but more than anything I wanted to be in charge of my own destiny, even as a child. I have always had the drive to fix things and love the endorphin hit that comes with it. As a kid I would rehab and flip bicycles. I still do most of my own car repairs and repaired my business equipment. While I didn't choose automotive as my career path, I did ultimately choose one that satisfied my need to fix things, commercial renovation and construction, also locksmithing. I am retired now, and have moved to a new place. I still get this urge to go back in the locksmith trade, maybe only part time, just to feed that desire. I'm not sure. I always struggled with the concept that most people that needed people like us looked down on us and didn't trust us. I wanted to be trusted and went out of my way to keep it that way. I had one large client since the early 80s, I could have taken advantage of the trust that she put in me but I refused to do it, my reputation and what I thought of myself was far more valuable than making a few more ill gained dollars.
I respect and admire both of you!
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Good Job! Thanks. 1 Nit pick ... I cringed when you used a Steel Flat-Blade Screwdriver to remove a small pit of the Transmission Pan gasket in that Suburban you rescued from the "Scammers". Like you, I also appreciated the "3rd-Hand" gaskets. As a EE, I am a confessed OCD type. I am NOT a mechanic, but just did the 120K Service on a 2003 RX300 SUV I bought a couple of years ago with 112K on the clock.
FYI ... even some OEMs "SCAM" us. e.g. Millions of servo/acutators for heat & A/C are dying 'cause they do NOT gold plate the Printed Circuit Board inside and they "short out" due to "Copper "Dust" all over the place. $50 OEM part ... & $1,000 or more to disassemble the dash to replace it. TIP I sprayed all 3 of mine with WD-40 ( with a needle / Syringe delivery tool into the area at the pivot point. Still working over a year now ... BUT as you say no way you or a shop could warranty such an action.
Videos like yours give me helpful knowledge and techniques ... PLUS the courage to tackle tougher challenges. I have done perhaps 90% of the services and many sensor / part changes ... plus the Xmission Pan-Drop & Filter changes on both, plus the Solenoid Pack on the old 1992 Caravan. It was a new unit provided by an employer back then.
BTW ... Just now figured out how to add this comment ... WAAAAAYYY down below all the "Ads"
Just recently, re-worked 4 faulty grounds, plus opened the BCM and resoldered a few "Cold" joints on the
'92 Dodge ... no codes ... just chased the more obvious symptoms. e.g. No gauges, no door chime, etc.
Were it sent to typical shops, the repairs would have cost perhaps 2-3X the street value of the Van.
But it is a fine backup and acts as a "Water-Proof-Pickup-Truck for all of us here in this niche of River City. :-)
Warm Regards to all,
John in the NW
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Cetane boosters are good, it will help make sure the combustion process works as expected. Similar to the octane boosters, or running higher octane fuels for gas engines. If the fuel you've been running is already blended to a high enough Cetane/Octane for the engine then you won't see much of an improvement. I would prefer to see that they claim an actual Cetane number improvement per dosage. The diesel market in the US is not as well regulated for cetane numbers, and its exceptionally rare to find a station that actually will list Cetane rating on the pump. From what I've read in the past, cetane numbers over 50 rarely have any significant benefit, but cetane numbers under 40 can cause less than ideal combustion. Most fuel in the US market is around 42-45 cetane, with a minimum spec of 40. In European markets the minimum cetane is 46.
I've got a 6L powerstroke and a 3L bluetec in my two vehicles, the bluetec has a DPF filter but is old enough to not have the DEF system. I definitely notice an improvement with a cetane treatment in the bluetec, more than anything in the frequency and duration of the DPF regens. In the truck, i mostly just notice a little less black smoke puffs unless I'm just flat out flooring it, so I assume the combustion process is just running a bit more complete.
I run the amsoil diesel treatment product, but have also used the ford/motorcraft one. It has 2 dosage levels, to either get +4 cetane or +7 cetane. I'll occassionally run the higher dosage for a tank or two, but honestly I see the benefits from the lower dose, and minimal gains from the higher one.
Cetane boosters aren't snake oil, but they have a diminishing returns depending on the fuel you are running.
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@kits2169 Holy crap! You came back later and added a whole diatribe to your previous silly comment. Now you're claiming Ray does all sorts of things wrong.
1: Ray DOES torque things down, INCLUDING wheel nuts, he just doesn't show every little detail on every single job. He could but this video alone would be something like 20 or more hours long as it took him something like 3 long days working on this thing.
2: The running in with power tools is iffy to me but, he's got a very practiced hand and does start them gently till he knows it's started and I haven't once seen him ever get cross threaded.
3: He absolutely DOES follow a cross pattern/star pattern! Are you blind or just a fool?
4: He sprays brake clean around, wipes things out like diffs that may have areas it can lay and ANY internal areas he gives plenty of time to evaporate too. Even if some did mix with diff or engine oil, it will evaporate out of it the first time it gets up to running temperature, it DOESN'T though!
5: He does ALWAYS rechecks mounting points, he several times in various videos has stressed the importance of doing EXACTLY THAT! Again, do you want 20 hour videos!
He adapts to the vehicle and customer's needs, so occasionally is obliged to improvise but, only if it suits the situation. You can avoid him but don't talk crap you're wrong about you sad little fool.
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Been watching you're channel for a while,,,been around cars all my life,,and drag racing,,,you crack me up,,reminds me of my dad growing up,,,his humor was as dry as a martini lol..but he knows his shit.. and yes I subbed..
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On a separate note, since you included the "let's go Brandon" slogan, which I fully endorse, a little reality check is certainly called for, especially in this situation, and especially for this crowd.. If you fall on either end of the democrat/republican spectrum, your a fool..If you think Biden is better than Trump, your a fool, If you think Trump is better than Biden, your a fool..Both sides are funded by the exact same billionaires, corporations, Wall Street, criminals, and both sides only represent the interests of this ruling class criminal cabal..Keeping the population divided protects their privilege, and the system that grants them power..A divided population is impotent(powerless), a united population is virile, capable of changing anything and everything..
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@RainmanRaysRepairs If I remember correctly, it costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $13,000 on a Tesla if you have it done by one of their authorized service centers. They typically last quite a while... Seems like I was told 80% rated capacity after eight, ten years, something like that. If you buy one new, and keep it for 20 years, you'll PROBABLY end up (slightly) ahead, all things considered. Especially if you already have - or are likely to get - solar power at your house (which doesn't do anything for the poor schmucks living in apartment buildings, lol, but their parents/grandparents/etc. should have thought things through before they all conspired to create a planet that has finite resources, EIGHT BILLION PEOPLE, and a constantly neutered space program). So - again, for the person who buys one new and keeps it for what today passes for a long, long time - it's no big deal. HOWEVER... The cost of replacing the battery pack is going to be a rather extreme example of sticker shock to the second - or third - owner who is dealing with an ever-decreasing time between charges, and who only has the past experience of being able to do a simple tune-up (or, at most, have a valve job or whatever done) in order to restore their vehicle's range. In my opinion, people who own electric vehicles ought to be a big portion of the money they save in fueling costs aside, as a sort of insurance against such a thing. And, as far as used ones go, well... everyone really should be aware of it. There's really nothing wrong with buying one that only has, for example, 80% (or even 60%) of its original capacity/range, as long as that range is still adequate to the purchaser's needs. There is , however, something very wrong with that decreased battery capacity - and battery life - not being reflected in the purchase price. I guess it's something that will eventually sefl-adjust, when the first five or so model years of "current generation" electric vehicles start requiring battery R&R. By then, I expect our IC engine fuel prices to be more in line with the (world other than the OPEC countries), so the cost of replacement might not be quite the elephant in the room that it is now. Everything is relative, after all. . . .
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I hired an airplane mechanic that turned out to be a great find. He would work slowly and methodically, and when he was done I would always notice a couple of things. Everything was back solid and securely. All replaced parts look factory new and there was no question about their origin. He only did things once, in sequence, and never had to remove some of his work to get to the next step. He was always very conscious of the next step coming up. He was amazing. Raiman, you look like you have these same traits. I wish I could find a local car mechanic I could trust. My local car dealer just went "doi, doi" on me. They keep adding many things to the recommended to-do list, that are just ridiculous. Like with only 15,000 mi, they want a complete flush and refresh of the transmission fluid. Since then, I've been trying to find another dealer, after 30 years of service.
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There’s already 748 comments, so I’m not going through all of them to see if the “screw” thing was already covered, so I might be repeating someone else, but the flathead screw was the original standard (after nails), then came along the Robertson. Around this same time, Phillips came about, but Robertson was superior because it didn’t cam out. Robertson approached Henry Ford to use his screws in car manufacturing, but they couldn’t come to an agreement, and Ford turned to Phillips screws to spite Robertson. Because of Ford, Phillips became the new standard (in the US). Robertson is still popular in Canada, but Allen, Torx and square drive became popular in other places.
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yes i dont like this vid,,we are not a japanes country,,we are ruled by the chinese,,please remember that..or you will ferever ....go missing.. aus ,seriously,,is ruled by idiots.. without balls.. they,ve sold off probably half aus to the chinese, plus manufacturing,farms,ect. just to line there pockets. your biden is like our vic. dan andrews. a meglomaniac.. be safe, all the best for cough cough,,xmass.
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Big lifts, great tools, fun gadgets, fixed cars, happy customers, locked gates, no bosses, wife unit, X-Files beings, Duramax trucks, and no coffee maker? Thanks YouTube and Ray's brain. Thanks ungrateful previous employer. ☕🚐👨🔧👩🔧💰📈
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My father worked for the Canadian National Railway, he was a mechanic, he used tools from Sears and Canadian Tire. I was in the RCAF, we used Grey tools with a few Snap-on. Ray is of course correct, buy the best you can afford if you are earning a living with your tools. If your favourite tool source offers a "no questions asked" replacement warranty, you have little to worry about tool wise. For me, when I was a teenager, I bought a 3/8 drive set from Canadian Tire, I broke a socket, they replaced it, I broke the ratchet, they replaced it, I lost one or two sockets over the years, that's on me, I still have most of it, I'm now 70 years old, I think I got good value out of my $19.95 plus tax.
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Dear Ray! Thank you for explaining the safety aspects of the Lift. PLEASE, when you can, make a DETAILED VIDEO of the specific details. You know what to do, but the audience needs to be shown, EXACTLY, in super detail what to do. Really. We need to be instructed by an Expert. And then, everybody can re-post the video to You Tube, and maybe some Dummies will look, watch, and Learn. Hope you can do this. It deserves to get a million views. Safety matters. "Carefulling" in the words of Sarah-n-Tuned, lol! (hehehe). Do it!!
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@RainmanRaysRepairs In my defense, I have a masters degree in political science, but was able to over come the indoctrination that comes inherent with that degree and document..I work with my hands, bitcoin, electric bikes, computer systems, solar systems, and build off grid tiny houses..I'm a life long fan of critical thinking, but, don't kid yourself, "ignorance is bliss" For a reason..Critical thinking exposes a never ending flaming pit to hell, most are forced back by the flames, and are scarred forever..But, the critical thinker also understands what a miracle(the odds) and fleeting opportunity it is to be alive, in the human form, and see's the wonder and beauty of Earth and life..Peace my brother...
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When your boss makes a mistake and instead of sending an employee to fix it, he owns up his mistake and asks for help; that's a good boss.
Edit: And yes, teach your kids how to drive stick. My mom taught me to when I was 9 on how to use a stick, feel when to shift, how to properly use the clutch, the coordination of clutch, shift & accelerator and when I was 13, she just drove to the middle of the city, at rush hour and told me: "Here, drive to this destination". Needless to say I was scared poopless but I started to get my independence, confidence and, most importantly, awareness when driving on heavy traffic. Also, something like 80% of all the cars driven here are stick. Differences in countries eh?
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First of all, Everything is Ray's Fault! Having said that, the Stealships are generally owned by Locals who give a lot of cash to the local pols and JUDGES. (Local Magisterial Level Judges). Very difficult to get any justice, UNLESS you go in with a Law Firm from several hundered miles away, OR, you have an Actual Real Politician that you are close to, and have given Real Money Support to, to call them up. If either of these two things happen, then, the Crims will laugh and pay.....OK to have to do the Right Thing every 1,000 or so Times. RAY is smart....No way he can have any effect here. Read the two aspects, presented above. This is kind of EFFED up America we live in. And, anybody wanna bet the Stealership hardly pays much money to their Techs????....And, anybody wanna bet on the ethnic angle on the Owners of the Stealership??????
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yeah that DEF crap applies here in Australia as well Ray . Here it's called 'add blue' , or some such bullshit , not sure what the situation at the moment is , but we recently had a country wide shortage of synthetic piss , which caused all sorts of transport issues . The thing that gets me angered tho , it's made in chyna , Australia exports natural gas to the chyneze , who synthethize the urea with that gas we export to them , then they supply us back in Australia with the DEF , and they recently decided they didnt wanna sell us any , wasnt that nice of em , and to make things even worse , the one and only plant in Australia that made the urea was closed down earlier this year ....apparently the process creates too much polution to do it here
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Ok ,..so I clicked because YT recommended it,..I don’t know why ,..this is the first vid I’ve ever seen from your vlog ,..I’m more than 1/2 way thru ,..I’m assuming you’re a MOTO head,..and your a repair man ,..that just got fired 😢😢,..u seem like a great guy,..but want do I know ,..this is my first time. So ,..I’ve been reading comments,..and ppl really like you! ,..and, they say,..”OPEN YOUR SHOP “ !! I don’t know,..like I said,”I’m only 1/2 into this video “ I will say ,..whom ever is talking has a VERY soothing voice,..like velvet! ,..any whoo ,..let’s finish this puppy up.
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Yikes!!!!!! I feel your pain,,,,,been there,done that.....just happened on your channel recently,,,,excellent videos...you think like I do,,,makes it even better....looking forward to more STUFF...🇺🇸🚘
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THE VERY 1ST LITTLE TRACTOR/ MACHINE THAT WAS CREATED WAS SIMILAR BY DESIGN AND CALLED A """""BOB""""" CAT !!! BECAUSE BOB CAT CORP/ CO. BUILT THOSE VERY 1ST LITTLE TRACTORS /MACHINES . WHICH ARE SIMILAR TO A """"""""HIGHLIFT""""""""" WHICH CAN DIG AND LOAD LOSE MATERIAL OR A LITTLE DIGGING ALSO!!!!! BOB CAT MACHINES WERE NATION WIDE !!!! AS TIME WENT ON A VARIETY OF ATTACHMENTS BECAME AVAILABLE AS ENGINEERS BECAME MORE COHERENT !!!! THERE ARE SEVERAL CO'S NOW WHICH BUILD THESE LITTLE MACHINES, LIKE CASE, TOYOTA, NEW HOLLAND, JOHN DEERE ??? MAHENDRA??? SP ??? ECT. THESE LITTLE TRACTORS WERE CALLED ALSO SKIDSTEERS, BECAUSE THEY WEREN'T REALLY DESIGNED TO HAVE ALOT OF """"""""ASS""""""" SIMILAR TO A BULL DOZER THESE THINGS WERE MORE MADE TO SCOOP, PUSH AND PILE LOOSE MATERIAL AND OR SPREAD / DRAG IT AROUND!!!!! ALOT OF THE TIME THESE MACHINES WERE WORKING OFF A SMOOTH HARDER SURFACE LIKE BLACK TOP, OR CONCRETE OR EVEN JUST HARDER SMOOTHER GROUND !!! BOB CATS / SKIDSTEERS ARE NOT REALLY MADE FOR DOING ANY SERIOUS DIGGING, OR EARTHMOVING. THOSE JOBS ARE LEFT UP TO THE """""REAL""""" TRACTORS BULL DOZERS, HIGHLIFTS, SCRAPERS ECT. EVEN THOUGH THEY HAVE BEEN MAKING THESE LITTLE BOB CATS / SKIDSTEERS BIGGER AND BIGGER !!!!! BUT THEY DO HAVE THEIR PURPOSE AND ARE VERY HANDY !!!!! THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB !!!! (EVERYTHING IS A HAMMER ).😊❤🤗🤗🤗😎😎😎🤯
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Ray, don't ever stop being you man. Love your comments about today's corporate America. Today's standards, really aren't equal to what they were back in the day. Quality control was tops back in the day, today, not so much, no one seems to care until they're taken to court, even then, feels like they still don't care. Just a slap on wrist to them. I do tend to get NAPA parts over some of the OEM, lets face it, even parts from the dealership can be just as bad as the "Chinese knockoffs". Yes, it's happened, many times. Great video as always, cheers :)
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I’m in the same boat as you. 07 LBZ CCSB in dark blue from California. Currently 291,000. Rust free. Found its way to Kentucky a couple of years ago via a previous owner who was a Marine Aircraft Mechanic.
In the past 2 years, lift kit removal, compete suspension rebuild, brake system rebuild, injectors, water pump, new transfer case with pump rub kit, fuel pressure regulator, serpentine drive kit, and all of the supporting “While I’m in there” repairs with all of them. Needs some transmission love.
Previous owner said he’s never ran a tuner and I have no desire to run one myself.
It’s been an experience of learning the Duramax, but I love my truck. It’s our “Family Truckster”
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Hey ray,, my 1990 ranger pu with a 4 cylinder also had 8 spark plugs, plus 2 spark controllers, Bought that little sucker new and loved it for 2 years, until I could afford to trade it for for a '92 model with 4wd,,, and the same 4 cylinder engine,, Loved it also for many years until it was stolen,,,, :-(
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My Line is Electronics, and a bit later, Computers - I Opened my own Store, got my Building paid off, and have now Retired - I ENJOYED the Repair Work! - More than once, I said 'I would do this even if I WASN'T paid!' - It is a sense of Accomplishment to make something work, when another feels it hopeless - Almost all my Customers were Referrals from past Satisfied Customers - I like to make Interwebz things wRok, you like to make Mekannicul things wRok! - On occasion, something may cause concern, but if you are like me, you just LURVE doin' this Stuff! - Keep 'em comin', Rainman! - GSS
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🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️🌎🌎🌎🌎🍓🍓🍓🤪🤪
Now that Ray is a business owner, he will be doing less mechanical work, and more administration.
It's the hidden responsibilities of simple things like answering phone calls, negotiating with clients, ordering parts, dealing with wrong parts, collecting and reporting quarterly taxes, both state and local, insurance, supervising employees, all while working 18 hour days.
I hope he can navigate the mine field of failed businesses, and survive while giving viewers an insight not to his efforts, and keeping his family healthy and happy.
He has thousands rooting for him.
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The problem Ray, is that there are shops that are not as honest as you, and they do rip customers off. So I'm going to tell a story of an experience I had at a "trusted" shop.
I'm a pretty decent Shade Tree, i can do my own basic maintenance. However Once upon a time I didn't have the space to do that, so I had to take my truck to a shop. This shop always tried to up sale me on stuff (See this used break fluid with no water in it? Your whole break system needs a flush and other "headlight fluid" kind of things. ), but they changed my oil/filter pretty quick. Well, que the day they said "Hey, your transmission was low, we added some fluid" ok, cool. paid for the quart or so they added, drove off. Next oil change rolls around "Oh hey, you've got a bad trans leak, we need to replace your transmission." i DID NOT have the money (also why does a leak = replace the trans), so i declined the repair and decided to keep an eye on the fluid. So for the next week, daily checks, it was slightly overfilled, and i figured with a leak that's a problem that will solve itself. The daily became weekly checks with no noticeable loss of fluid. then monthly. Then whenever i thought about it. A year or two later I had to take it to another shop to get some work done on a weekend (oil change shop wasn't open weekends and I couldn't afford to drop it off during the week and be without it) and i said "hey while its in the air, can ya'll check the transmission leak." i got it back and the other shop was like "yeah, nothing wrong with that transmission except someone over filled it and the fluid was burping out of the fill tube when it got hot." needless to say, the "trusted" shop i used to get my oil changed at never saw my business again. That was like 6 or 7 years ago, and its only within this past year when i replaced my radiator and the trans cooler lines drained a bit that i had to add any fluid to my transmission.
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"Stupid storm, ruining the economy..." No, this is Idalia, not Biden. Staying prepared, otherwise known as adulting. Good job. Being prepped is just normal.
Glad to see you get a win, my friend. Between you, Watch Wes Work, Ivan at Pine Hollow, Eric O., Squatch, Keith Rucker, David Richards at the Old Steam Powered Machine Shop, Windy Hill Foundry and a few others, I'm beginning to think there is nothing that can't be fixed. If the owner is willing to pay what its worth to fix something, there is almost always a solution. For many of us, the repair may be "more than the car is worth," but it isn't more than it is worth to us.
I agree. If the engine is out or the transmission is out, ALWAYS replace that rear main. It is cheap insurance.
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Ray, that comment about Honda Del Sols and Ford Probes in high school took me back -- not because of the cars, but because of the music.
For me, it was Linkin Park, Puddle of Mudd, Seether, System of a Down, and Saliva as bands I used to listen to. In point of fact, System of a Down's "Toxicity" album, their first, was released in 2001. Knowing that, I kinda feel old, lol.
Good work as always, Ray. And I feel your pain about the contortions you put your body through, under the steering wheel. Been there more times than I care to count. And the coffee cup looked good as well! Awesome job on "ze shameless self-promotion;" I enjoyed that bit, along with the Wife Unit being her awesome self as always.
Until next time -- same Bat Time, same Bat Channel, Mr. Ray!
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Hi Ray, love the commentaries, love the wisecracks, feel for you at times though, many years ago I became a mobile vehicle mechanic on call outs to service or get going broken down vehicles 24 hours a day..The most Irritating was a regular customer called me 5AM was due to leave for work in his work van i serviced but he came out to find his van not starting, boy did he chew my ears on the phone even when i got there, when i put the jumper cables on one flashed on connecting the live telling me there was a big current draw from his van battery so, I looked at the front to see bright shining headlights now on.... YEP, he had parked the van the previous day leaving his headlights ON.. I got the van started, turned the lights OFF while it was charging and explained what he had done, but, he said i should have told him it needed a bigger battery as to not let it happen again.. I WAS BY THEN VERY ANGRY but just said OK next service then, took my stuff, left him the van running went back home/ I NEVER serviced his vehicles ever again - i was "too" busy - lol.. I only done that job for 2 more years and went back into Engineering parts making for AERO stuff, as the downturn in work had by then picked up and gone crazy again.. Thanks for the videos - Ian..UK... But even after all those years, 40 or more I still feel angry by that fool, i know its wrong but there you go.. lol
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You thief, that nater had at least another 50 k on it, just had to spray some wd40 on the bearing 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. As far as the price of Alternator/Generators are concerned, back in the day, $80.00 for a new Nissan part was expensive, but as we know, new stuff has Mico Controllers in them, so basically you have a micro computer in your Alternator/Generators, so they are waaayyyyy more expensive. Also have you done an anniversary when you opened the shop video, if you did I missed it, I can't remember when you opened the shop. Anyway have a great day Youngin
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Here's problem though - At best that's passing in a no passing zone, and a reckless driving charge because you have no way of proving how fast he was going (the speed off the OBD2 port into your dashcam doesn't count either, not certified, wouldn't hold up in court). *AND*, no one actually got hurt. The law prosecutes based on has happened, not what could have happened.
Also - If you continued to follow him, escalated the situation, then got physical, then HE would have a self-defense case *against you*. I'm also gonna guess that between the type of work you do and the type of person he is driving like that... you probably are both armed too... and then that could end your children having no father over this guy driving like an idiot. You don't strike me as an idiot, so I'm guessing that's why you didn't pursue him... not because "you didn't feel like it".
It freaking blows man, but that's how our legal system works.
I hope somebody will drop a dime on him, and the police can get him to admit that it was him. Given that this person sees nothing wrong with driving like that, chances are pretty good he's been rung up for doing dumb crap before, and this would get his off the road for while.
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Hey Ray. Your resident 5.7 guru here. And I'll level with you - there is no 'one fix' here. I can tell you that the parts cannon has been fired incorrectly. I cannot tell you one concrete path because there isn't one. However, there's an entire checklist. One, crank position sensor. "But there's liquid fuel in there!" Yes; in intermittent CKP fault, no code is set for this MY unless repeated CKP faults occur over multiple drive cycles. Even if enough CKP faults occur to stall the car. If a subsequent drive cycle is clean, CKP is back to OK.
Next up, purge solenoid at the wires. As mentioned, the relays may stick. And the wiring system doesn't guarantee fault detection. Check to see if activation holds. Now you're going "why not the MCV?!" Because you don't have codes. Mopar is SD not AF. When the MCFV sticks, you get a lot more raw fuel and you get a PCM emergency shutdown (4F79 exceed, I think it's a U-code on '06) in permanent history with a P017x too rich or trim malfunction. Not a P02xx.
But unfortunately (or fortunately) the customer description is also pointing me to the PCV system. Which is absolutely terrible on these, and prone to failure. Pop the PCV hose. If you've got liquid oil? You're doing PCV ($15-40, 0.15 hours) and probably PCV bridge seals (split the intake manifold and do all the seals, the PCV bridge seals are separate - 53032384AB, qty2.) If you have ANY evidence of an oil leak at the intake manifold? All the intake manifold and PCV gaskets. If the customer ALSO has observed a noticeable change in fuel mileage - either improved or decreased - then it's probably PCV.
SUPER CRITICALLY IMPORTANT: DO NOT BREAK THE PLASTIC INTAKE MANIFOLD!! One, it's $1000 ($500 per half.) Two, it's on 6+ month national backorder. Lubricate the PCV O-ring with ONLY engine oil before installing it. Anything else will foul the PCV, and you'll never get it in without lubing it. "Wait, stop, I have fuel here. How does this explain it? It doesn't!" Ah, but it does! Because the PCV is directly connected to that same vacuum source. Yay. (Told you it was bad design!)
And if it's none of those, well, let me know.
edit: to elaborate on PCV vs purge a bit, it's all the same vacuum system. And the PCV is prone to surge and clog. Particularly when the wrong oil is used (5W20 full synthetic only! Seriously. It matters. Blame MDS.) And who could possibly love weird vacuum problems more than Chrysler? (Nobody, that's who.)
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"as a libertarian" ah, this makes sense. I would expect nothing less from the guy that meticulously diagnoses and troubleshoots problems. It's quite apt, honestly.
Also like the post above, I don't come here for politics and I truly appreciate that I've been following you for years and this is the first time I've ever heard anything about your beliefs on the topic. Much much much respect for keeping the focus on what we're here for: cars and entertaining banter.
Edit: just saw the edit.. you made a slight grammatical mistake, you're a libertarian, not a Libertarian. I know, I know, it's a bit pedantic, but the party is just as corrupt as the rest and I find this seemingly miniscule adjustment makes the difference in expressing your stance effectively. Small l is a stance, big L is a title. But enough of that, let's get back to the cars and banter.
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Rayisms are the best, gravity, flashlight gravity, you’re coming with me, oh that’s toight, peeetah, fail, angry pliers, click, reverse click, this could be bad. Linear persuader, loud noises, copyright strike, accompanied by a liberal amount of brake cleaner. Do Dee do, more ducka ducks, I win
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@Rainman Ray's Repairs Since you said to do it.....no, I did not enjoy the video. Why? I am in the process of tearing my truck apart- 22 yrs old and well used, bearings pistons, valves, seals, gaskets, rear axel, etc..... - I did not see enough cussing or lateral, high velocity movement of tools to show sympathy regarding my pain. I do, however, appreciate the honesty/integrity that I have seen you display. I have encountered issues/incompetence/mistakes from "professionals" that I have unfortunately had to use a couple of times in the past and wish I had that money back. I am closing the gap, keeping my bearing and will continue to wrench through........I know, but just couldn't resister.
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Ray I just realized you installed a 1R-1807 non internal bypass filter onto the new adapter. let me explain something. Number one that is a secondary oil filter, not a primary, cat says it has a built in 20 psi relief on the ENGINE SIDE for the bypass filter (the 1R-1807) because its a small micron size filter not capable of full flow. While you probably will not have oil starvation related issues in florida using this filter, your subscribers in northern states will. Who suggested this as a modification? They are dead wrong. Get that off your engine. What that is for is a bypass filter system like what amsoil sells. I just took this off a duramax here in WI that were about to do bearings on. LBZ, 303k miles, installed adapter and cat filter in august, failed in november. Now he's at my shop to get cam, main and rod bearings, crank turned and probably also going to need more than that. His complaint was that he ALWAYS had good oil pressure but that it would go up and down up and down when it was cold, then one day it started rod knocking when he started it up and drove it to get diesel, the knock went away going to work but came back when he went home. Sounds weird right? Thats because if you look at how oil circulates in a duramax you will know its not a priority mains oiling engine. It feeds a "main" oil gallery that in order feeds left and right bank piston cooling channel, front cover sub oil gallery and then to the vertical oil gallery for the main crank bearings and cam bearings. Quite literally cooling jets get priority flow over engine bearings, hell even then left and right bank rocker shafts all share oil flow from number 3 camshaft bearing journal channel. What that all means is that if there is NOT enough flow even if the pressure is high the engine bearings and rockers will receive less oil because they are oiled behind the oil pressure relief. Diagrams are hard to find for LBZs but trust me on this one, you are starving your engine when its cold.
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YouTube videos are low cost production, low capital investment, low risk with an established demand and distribution channel. This is opportunity cost analysis of cannibalizing income from that stream to a physical business with overhead, utilities, travel, security, people, IRS filing, licensing, accounting, Secretary of State of Florida reporting and filings, mechanic lien prosecutions for deadbeats and a trillion other hassles that you would do well to analyze before poppen zee hood.
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Ray, you're letting the "Re" people live rent free in your head :( Do what you have to do to stay mentally healthy, and if trying to beat the "Re" people to the comment is how you need to do it, then I for one support you. Going to give you my opinion though, and it's only that, an opinion. It's starting to take away from the videos, hearing you constantly "reeee, can't do this, or that". Trying to make a negative a positive is a good thing, and I'm not bashing on you, saying it's right or wrong, only that it's seems to be starting to become a main thing of your video (as in, we can pretty much guarantee you'll be doing the "reeeee" thing :( . Take care of your head man, but you might want to stop letting them live in your head? Either way, I myself will continue to be a fan and support.
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Ray, one of the seldom times I would give you advice. When you did a wire repair several weeks ago I mentioned side by side soldering was fine for low current repairs, I don't know what kind of current draws exist on modern headlights, but to be safe I would twist the wires together and then solder them. If a soldered repair on headlights fails while driving, you have no mechanical bond to prevent a total loss of lighting. In this case, yes, you would have the other headlight--- but for how long? Also, if you got the soldering stand with 2 roach clips, put the insulation in the clip, not the bare wire. Normally I would also suggest staggering your joints, but the customer left you no option on this one. Please don't take this as knocking your work. Just suggesting a better way to do it.
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7:50: "The install proceedure is the inverse of the removal proceedure." -- this is a very generalized statement that is absolutely true.
In some math classes, we learn compositions h(x)=f(g(x)) and we learn what the inverse h^(-1)(x) would be, namely that it's g^(-1)(f^-1(x)). Most students understand that we must invert both f and g, but few understand why the reverse order. In h(x), g is applied first, but in h^(-1)(x), f^(-1)(x) is applied first.
In your work here you:
(a) took the clip in Starter solenoid connector off
(b) took the positive bolt on cable off
(c) took the back bolt out
(d) took the front bolt out
(e) removed the starter
So, to invert, we do the opposite in the opposite order, namely:
e^(-1) Put the new starter in
d^(-1) Put the front bolt in
c^(-1) Put the back bolt in
b^(-1) Put the positive bolt on cable back
a^(-1) Put the Starter solenoid connector back
We also see that some operations commute, namely (c) and (d), and if the operations commute, so do their inverses. But, some don't commute, like (d) and (e). It's nice to see algebraic structures be so hands-on. It's also quite intuitive when hands on, less so symbolically, but the same idea either way.
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@RainmanRaysRepairs here goes nuthin,,yup,,we know you cant weld.. practice makes perfect kocky sht.. which is what we call crap welds.. just spend 1 hr at home, with different thicknesses.. i love welding, built ships, chassis, gurders,trommels, trailers. its an art. to create something from nuthin..great vids, funny, honest, keep em coming.. from aus..
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Rainman Ray's Repairs, I will tell you an Old STORY about my 1969 Mustang Coupe. A chain of auto repair stores, had in for inspection. Mechanic told me my Power Steering was bad. I was watching him playing with my steering LOL, and I knew more about my old classic car then he did. I ask him would you like to retract that statement about my Power Steering issue, as I smiled. And why he ask; first its a power Steering Assist AND you have to turn on the car first to check the steering! And by the way, as I stated, the shop manual is on the back seat AND states that fact. And I Passed inspection! LOL! This episode happened in the mid 1980's. And yes, I did my own work on this car & also put a Power Steering Control Value Unit yrs prior. These old classic cars are so easy to work on its child's play. I did my own ball joints, Radiator, heater core, water pump, by-pass intake manifold, Put in a new carburetor; did the Alternator, Voltage Regulator, Repaired the wire harness, yes I did it all. My 1969 Mustang had 253,000 miles on it until yr 2000, a car ran a red light & I was totaled! Now I have a Truck a 1999 F150 with a 4.6 V8 when I bought it over 10yrs ago, had 73,000 and now over 200,000 just got the transmission overhauled, cost $3,300. Tips; Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. SLICK50 once a yr in the oil change during the summer. I also do this in my 1969 Mustang, I could still pump it up to 85-90 mph easy. I tightened the suspension, put gas shocks, Sway bar in the rear, had a welder put my sleeves I made in the rear frame, heavier sway bar in the front, I could go around a corner flat in that old 69' mustang. 2 Barrel Carb, kept in simple on steel rims & moon hub caps. I did a lot of work on it, called it my Wife LOL! Rainman Ray's Repairs you are a rare one! GOOD JOB!
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Thanks for sharing your experience, but please refrain from spreading rumors like "it could be one to two years before electricity is restored". First, it's not true. This is a viral rumor that you got swept up in and just parroted without checking. And second, even if it is true, bringing attention to it like this crushes what little people hope the residents of that area may be clinging to, some of whom may have nothing left.
I lived in Florida for 30 years, survived many hurricanes, and know first hand how devastating rumors like this can be.
I love your videos, and you really have a heart of gold. You're one of the good guys. But as a YouTube star, your words come with a lot of impact, far more than most people's, and this means you have a responsibility to be cautious, check sources, and speak the truth. Please be more careful and considerate with what you share.
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Ray, one of the things I enjoy most, and learn the most because of, is the actual techniques you use. I have a tendency to be a perfectionist, and YOU are a PERFECTIONIST is all the ways that matter. The difference is that you know what matters, and I don't. Through you, my sense of what is important, and when it is important, and why it is important, grows. This is the real practical knowledge that I value in my life. If I knew you, we might be friends --- or not. It doesn't matter. There are many ways we might not be, but regardless, I respect your attitude, your abilities, the relationship with "the wife unit", and you -- Carl
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Started wrenching at a very young age, then a sa young adult i helped open a Sears Ato Center. Started out pretty good, then realized I wasn't going anywhere when younger ethnic kids were getting advances instead of me. 1980's, when affirmative action was alive and well, it still is! Anyway whta soured me on it was the "by the book" crap. R&R for a starter on a Vega said 1.5 hours, I did it in half an hour, the boss wasn't happy. He told me the book says 1.5, I told him the book was wrong, he told me to put the car back on the lift. Then he said no, here's anther ticket, go do this, he went and put the car on the lift, and took it down an hour later. Then years after I had already left there was when they got caught padding the labor charges! I hate greedy companies that screw people because they can. PG&E, you're next!
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Many years ago, Craftsman used to warranty stuff too... 100%
Even in a clear cut case of abuse, no question, you'd get another one....
What I'm told by my ASE master friends is, Snap On & the tool trucks are the same... They will warranty anything.... I assumed you were joking, when you said "I'll have to break this more, to get it warrantied..." You don't have to do that.
Now, for what they CHARGE, which you alluded to in a video a couple months ago (I believe it was something like "more lube!!! the tool truck is here! If you know, you know..."), I mean, it's at least triple what a comparable mid-range tool costs.... So you're buying it 3 times up front... Maybe "warranty" isn't the right word.... Now look, I get it, you don't have all day to shop for tools, you are WORKING, you're on commission, you gotta get in early and stay late, to get those jobs that pay.... So, the tool truck, you're paying for the SERVICE.... And for what they charge, the service better be really good... which, hey, warranty is a part of that equation... If a guy is doing business with you, and he wants new needle nose pliers, you give it... I mean, unless you want that guy to literally never buy from you again ever....
I also got quite a laugh out of your peel & stick "Snap On" badge for the radio... heh heh heh! People will hate this, but I very carefully removed the "Husky" thing from my new box, and got a Snap On one off EBay... Now of course, it's just a joke, my friends & family KNOW I wouldn't drop that cash on a box.... And one of my SuperPro ASE master buddies, instantly he says "that's not a Snap On box..." Now, not that it's WRONG to be a tool snob, it certainly is not, but not only did he spot it instantly, but he was a little upset about it... I guess that's kind of like upbadging a car, which is probably wrong.... So, uhhh, sorry, to any tool snobs out there... I apologize. If I ever sell it, I'll put the Husky Badge back on, I promise.... I was just having a little fun... I'm not gonna lie, the Husky toolbox I bought is super duper nice.... very well worth it. Lovely box. At 20% of the price, it's 80% of the box, so that feels like a good deal to me....
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While I LOVE your method for sleeving the power cables, the remote wire wasn't such a good idea.
Why? Because by putting a crimp connector on the end of the wire, then sticking it into the crimping terminal, you've caused an extra point of failure.
Other than that, as an old installer, I give your job, an 8 out of 10.
The "installer" who originally did this, doesn't get a score, because they were an idiot...
The reason I gave you an 8, is because of the remote wire, and bending the speaker terminal tabs.
When those tabs are bent like that, you weaken them, as well as cause an increase in resistance.
I know, I'm being nitpicky, but if it were my install, those would've been failed and replaced... :oops:
P.S. FYI, Speaker impedance is measured by RMS, so it's normal, for a speaker to measure higher resistance on an Ohm meter.
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From what I have heard from a few semi drivers is just wait until you can't get that DEF fluid as the production of it comes mainly from overseas. And he has already found quite a few truck stops out west that were totally out and had to go to a local Autozone or such to get it...which they won't allow the large purchase amount needed to maintain a semi truck's usage full time.
The funny part of his story was, as a driver and having a pee stop whenever you need it just isn't feasible always he and many drivers are using those pee bottles you get from your doctor to measure urine output. Just unzip, load the "dipstick", and relief comes swiftly to store for the next stop...lol. I can't help picture drivers doing this and something happens they spill it all in their floors...lol.
Anyway, their shop/company mechanic said it was just pee so if in a pinch just pour their pee bottled up stuff into the tank and get to a place where you can get the DEF fluid. Well, a driver he was tag teaming with somewhere out west near Montana was getting the low DEF light and was starting to get concerned. So, he takes his little bottle...and my driver friends' stock donation...and pours it into the DEF tank...they said it was synthetic pee. So, he does, and sets out again. A few dozen miles down the road the truck goes into limp mode, totally shuts down, warning alarms going off and lights all over the dash, and he pulls over to stop...and the truck won't start at all. When the diesel mechanic his company called came to figure it out he found pee in the DEF tank. And, he went off on the driver. Needless to say, after a few thousand dollars of a bill to do repairs, since our pee isn't DEF fluid and it had damaged several electronic sensors and such he gets back on the road...days later of course...only to get back to the main depot and get fired. DEF isn't pee like we....well, wee...LOL. Putting pee in will destroy many sensors. So, don't put pee in the DEF tank. LOL.
Truck drivers have the best stories...truthful or not...ROFL>
Take care, Ray.
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I mean, nuclear is environmentally friendly, all the cooling towers just emit water vapor, and there are thousands of them around the world. We've only had 4 (if memory serves me right) nuclear incidents, where Chernobyl was operator error, Fukushima was a true disaster that was not foreseen in the sense of a big earthquake, which the plant managed just fine, but the huge tsunami overcame the tsunami shield on the plant. 3 mile island was a mechanical error which lead to erroneous readings and I forgot the 4th big one.
Now, nuclear waste, currently is extremely safe, the "caskets" are extremely secure and made to store the waste, for at least, 1.000 years. Now, back in the '60s we learned how to re-use the spent fuel rods, but it was incredible expensive but I'm aware there's a couple of reactors around the world that use nuclear waste to make nuclear energy.
We have the knowledge on how to re-use nuclear waste, it's just a financial wall that's keeping use from using those reactors along with the normal ones.
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You sound good, so congrats on recovery, just don't contract anything else , got that. Now that we've cleared that I've got to say, I've been a prefill kinda guy. The manner in which I preformed this feat was to take filter and plug return with my thumb, slowly pour oil into entrance holes and stop when they filled to the point of bubbling. Not realizing the contaminates I introduced. Having never been employed buy a shop time was not an issue, my thought was to moisten the filtering agent causing a diminished travel time. Just how I thought, not an opinion superiority. After interacting with Mr. Stone another subscriber here, I read a large number of argumentative responses regarding the filter prefill issue. You've made yourself clear previously as to not prefilled installation is correct. After listening to you I thought that I should do same. This long response is mostly geared to Mr. Stone and I observing the negativity of others opinion, asserting they're belief beyond engineering , research, development, and manufacturer guild lines they are correct. It would seem their hateful degenerated opinions rise to the point of murder if circumstances permitted. Their ignorant opinion is based solely on that ignorance, only a proven study would cure that view. I doubt they'd change their vile view regardless of findings. You mentioned Caterpillar as a reference, it doesn't get any better then that, how many millions over 50+ years experience to state" do not attempt to pre-fill oil filters". I'm not engaged in arguments with others opinion as to who's right or wrong, nor claim bla bla to you being wrong. You changed the ignorant guffy way i prefilled filters based on your outline. Nuff said, thank you for making it to this point. All the best for your continued success. Bid you a pleasant morning.
With intelligence I hit the mark.
Figuring solutions for vast expanses.
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@RainmanRaysRepairs They used to teach these things in school!!! It was called "Home Economics" and "Auto shop". Home-Ec wasn't just cooking and sewing!!! It was household management, budgeting, meal planning within a budget, cleaning, paying bills, balancing a checkbook, etc. My home-ec class also covered checking your car's tires and oil. It SURE was not a "slider" class!!! The first year of Auto shop covered light maintenance, and "shopping" for a car. ALSO we had "Diver's-Ed. Which also covered checking your car for safety, checking fluid levels, proper tire inflation, etc., as well as precision driving, in a parking lot, BEFORE we were allowed anywhere near a public road.
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A man is flying in a hot air balloon and realises he is lost. He reduces height and spots a man down below. He lowers the balloon further and shouts: “Excuse me, can you tell me where I am?”
The man below says: “Yes, you’re in a hot air balloon, hovering 30 metres above this field”.
“You must be an engineer,” says the balloonist.
“I am,” replies the man. “How did you know.”
“Well,” says the balloonist, “everything you have told me is technically correct, but it’s no use to anyone.”
The man below says: “You must be in management”.
“I am,” replies the balloonist, “but how did you know?”
“Well,” says the man, “you don’t know where you are, or where you’re going, but you expect me to be able to help. You’re in the same position you were before we met, but now it’s my fault.”
Hahahaha...
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@Anubis78250 Nice, I too have 4 vehicles, 14' Buick Enclave, (I know don't get me started, lol actually it's been pretty good and not a lemon) 78' Dodge Ramcharger, 11' Kia Soul I promised Eric the Car Guy I would have that timing belt replaced by the time he comes back, and a 96' Dodge Ram 1500 that I just finished a complete engine overhaul on only to have the transmission finally die. The previous two owners never took care of the truck and I knew it was going and I plan to rebuild it. I myself am a mechanic of 34 years and I enjoy watch vehicle repairs. Ray I a very good and honest mechanic/tech, I've found over the years there is a Black and White areas of the work, things you absolutely shouldn't do, things you absolutely should do, and then a grey area wherein we all do things differently, and I find I'm right on with Ray or he is with me, but then there are something's we differ on and that's okay it's in the grey areas. I like to see if what I think is wrong with the car is right going off video alone lol like a strange Mechanic's mystery novel. Lol, sorry so long but that's just me, and thanks for the reply. Hope this finds you well my YT Friend!
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The more i do this crap, the more I realize it takes an INSANE amount of junk to properly do this job. I've got probably 80% of the stuff you have jammed into a box little over half size of yours, gas air compressor, 9K generator, welder, 2 other rollaway boxes with specialized diesel tools & enough taps, dies & drill bits to stock a machine shop, bench grinder, drill press, 20 ton press, porta power set, portable A/C recovery machine, vacuum pump, Freon tanks, regular floor jack, 30 ton air jack, 1" tire gun, 55 gal oil drum & pump, 3 different scan tool sets (one is the old school Snap-On brick 😁) all jammed into the back of a retired U-Haul truck. It weighs about 13K. Of all the trades we have to use the most amount of self-supplied equipment & arguably get paid the least.
Pick another trade kids! It has some fun times but overall you spend half your career paying to equip yourself!
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It is part of the 1st Amendment.....Freedom to voice your opinions, no matter which camp you sleep in, you, as long as you are INSIDE the US, have the right to voice ANY and ALL opinions you have, yes even thoes that the other camps disagree with.
Also, why does a Constitutional amendment change from state to state, The Constitution is for EVERYONE, both the citizens and the government officials. BTW, the 14th Amendment makes the individual states follow ALL federal limitations, so why does a right change when you cross a imaginary line that delineates state boundary.
Do you lose the 5th amendment, the right to not incriminate yourself, when you cross state lines? Do you lose the right to attend or not attend a religeous gathering? Does the cops in one state have the authority to enter your house without a warrant, and another state prevents that, when its protected by The Constitution? The Constitution needs to be re-read, NOT re-Written. Just my 2 cents!!
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Ray, I watched all of your videos about the hurricane (for everyone who DOES NOT know, Ray has secondary YouTube channell
Rainman Ray Out of the Shop, Bonus Videos & Extras 🙂) and I am glad you all got through it. Stuff will be repaired, people will be in not so good mood, worriying, ... but you are alive and tired and everything, just listen girl sing... just find positiveness how ever you can fin it in all of it, bellive me life is ittle easyer, bellive me, my health does not serve me right but still positive 😀 (with little of negativity in the mix but screw it, it is what it is).
Anyway I am glad you all are okay Ray 👍👍
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@jesse584 understand that new oils and synthetics like that 5w 30 flow too fast for ur dry start to cause any damage. That is how every mechanic is trained to do their work. They aren't going to waste 5 minutes to try to fill the oil filter up when they know that in reality, the wear and tear from that is non existent. Sure, the oil pressure pump might get worn down, right? Wrong. Still slight amount of oil in the pump so the 3 seconds it runs dry, the only thing you might notice is the noise since it's not submerged in oil. Now that's only if the oil is full. Which it is. Now, I do agree that even the crappies of cars should be treated well by mechanics, but, he did nothing here to actually damage the vehicle. Let me know where the video is that the customer complained about swirl marks from paper, ill watch it. And the mechanic may not get those labor rates. The shop does. Now is the mechanic going to follow a sterile environment procedure at your request? No. If the car is in the same condition it was in, then no problemo. When had this YouTube ever done the glove thing differently? Idk but im assuming yall see it all the time. Never has told us about a customer touching a greasy steering wheel. Seems like you need to reup on your backyard knowledge, specifically when you mentiond a dry start. And yes I do know what I'm talking about so test me I dare you lol. For the record, if I did see any neglect I would totally agree but everyone is being too over the top because they get to actually see the work and are micromanaging a full time ASE Certified mechanic. Those tests aren't easy and you have to retake them every 2 to 5 years, and they are expensive. Not only that, a shop is responsible for the work done to your car 12 months or 12,000 miles so if there was a mistake made, which there wasn't, they would eat that charge. I know this from personal experience.
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Ray, getting your private pilot's license nowadays is going to be expensive. When I got mine as a part of my college courses in the early '80s, it cost around $2,500. I worked my butt off and got my license in 45 hours, minimum was 40 hours. Avgas today, depending on location, can be closing in on $9.00/gallon. BOHICA. Another problem is finding a good and reputable flight instructor. I was lucky, one of my professors, ex Navy F-8 Crusader pilot, was my first. He had to stop because of time limitations due to being a professor. The second CFI was also good. Make damn sure the aircraft has all maintenance done and no open airworthiness directives. Although I graduated from ERAU, my professor did not teach there. ERAU had/has some good professors and instructors.
Be sure to fly a minimum of twice per week, three or more is better. Flying skills are terribly perishable, need to keep those skills fresh.
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Ray, you are a rare individual, honest, good set of morals. A rare breed these days. Respect. My 91 Silverado is pinging, I will try this. If good, will try seafoam or berrymans down the tbi junk. Just rebuilt tbi unit last summer, injectors sprayed fine but rebuilt unit anyway and replaced broken spring in pressure unit. New NAPA distributor, cause original had decayed plastics. The old girl has over 300,000 on the clock, still runs strong, but pings. Timing is correct. Any ideas Ray? No codes. Will a clogged egr cause this? On long trip on highway(1 hr) money light is on, but resets if I shut it down and restart code goes away.
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Ray, it's not racists, you honor them by mentioning their name, and you also honor them by remembering them. So no it is not racists, I am half Native American (Indian) Cherokee, and Half Irish. All the PC bs nowadays are just another form of harassment. Some people take so many things out of context, Nothing you said was meant in a harmful or derogatory way brother. PS: love the videos Ray, would love to see you set up a rear differential, ring, and pinion gear set, Backlash, etc.
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Why does your customer want new rotors against your recommendation?
Word of mouth from the but- hurt.
Don't believe in you.
Only believe in new.
It helps the Chinese destroy your industry.
There are a few examples across a vast line of car makes that have circumstances in the multifactual realm of their specific reality.
Some cars get hub distortion when tightening.
Some cars have issues with their wheels and the bolt circle .
Some rotors end up being machined only for runout in early mileage. Some cars had solid rotors with little room for machining and we're discard only.
Some had campaigns done because the hat design made them composite.
When someone reacts to stories about repeat attempts, ( on someone else's make model and year)
They may see a brand new part as the smart money.
This particular case, the normal machining should suffice.
The tire issue with cuppy inside rib wear is mostly the issue.
The car didn't receive rotation, air pressure and 4 wheel alignment often enough.
A set of tires and correction can solve that portion.
Since he didn't ask for his old rotors, you can save them for another customers rainy day?
Whatever.
When the man says what he wants, write up your recommendation, but do what he says. Within safe practice, right?
He wants to listen to erroneous generalized advice from elsewhere.
That's how I have had to view similar situations.
( Diameter is across the circle, width is the outside thickness, side to side)
That's not a brake micrometer.
The unworn chamfer area is adding to the measure. But not definitive here.
And don't put faith in external gauges.
You saw where the actual point of pad wear exists from normal braking. It's one end of the inner pad.
I told the truth on this for years and the kids they hired told them the external check, causing discreppancy in the customer file.
You can believe trainees if you want.
I even invested my own time and tools to show them.
Didn't seem to help.
Now I know how Trump feels.
The tire work will be done by a low bidder.
It will still need the cause for that addressed.
Let's hope they are careful and correct like your wheel and lugnut care.
Nice work on this one.
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Okay I don’t know if you’re going to read this or not, but I want to say, “You have no idea how much I appreciate your channel. I’ve been with you now for years, and have felt blessed that I could be on this journey with you, and your family. The knowledge that you have taught me, you have inspired and gave me the confidence, not only to learn more, but to put that knowledge to real use. My old 1994 Chevy Silverado was really starting to show her age, now with a little elbow grease, a few do-ta-does, and inspiration, I get compliments on her all the time, and she runs like a Swiss watch.” I look forward to many, many more years watching your show, it truly has become a big part of my own journey. Thank you.
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Thanks again for showing us how something works that most people don’t get to see. Now, not trying to be disrespectful with my next question at all, just trying to understand. I get minimum labor charges, and you should definitely be paid for the work you do, but what is the reasoning behind most shops ( at least in my area ), charging 150 bucks or more for what you just did in that video? Is it just a minimum labor charge for the time? I’ve seen lots of people refuse the service after buying a costly set of tires, because they thought it was to expensive. I drive a lot for work, thousands of miles. I just had my 2019 F150 checked a few months ago, alignment and a road force balance ( kind of a 4 wheel dyno type thing ), and it wasn’t cheap. Anyway, enough of my rambling, just wondered what your thoughts would be on that, have a great day.
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You realize, right, that us wanna-be's watch you because we don't have: (-1-) a lift, (-2-) a super expen$ive scanner, (-3-) all kinds of specialty tools, (-4-) our own shop complete with office manager/wife-unit, (-5-) all your knowledge and experience (aren't they same?), (-6-) your set of ethics/standards, (-7-) <more>.....
Ok, I have standards until I'm getting screwed with frustrating complications....
So not having these we thus live (vicariously ((right word, for sure)) ) thru YOU Ray... and Eric, and Ivan, and Wes, and all the YouTube mechanics (Scanner Danner)....
Watching you tickles my brain better than a great deal of cable TV. Or over-the-air TV.
S O K E E P U P T H E
G R E A T W O R K, B O S S !
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I collect old hit and miss engines that some are over a 100+yrs old, the 1st time I run across the ethanol super glue effect was on a 8 hp Associated engine I bought,. Now, this is over 2300 lbs in weight with a 8" piston the piston and rod comes up to my waist and I am 6 ft tall, , and 42" flywheels on it, the gas tank is in the base, and the previous owner left about 2 gallons of the nastiest gas you ever smelled in it, and no drain in the tank and wasnt about to break the lines off, so I thought well just run it out. It doesnt have a spark plug , but a mechanical igniter and a low tension coil , which wouldnt fire it unless you used a 12 volt battery, usually a 6volt lantern battery will fire it, The next morning it was STUCK SOLID, with the piston super glued in the cyl!! Had to use a pipe wrench and a 10ft pipe on the crankshaft and about 2 cans of gumout choke cleaner!! Then put Berrymans fuel cleaner in the tank and fresh gas and run for 2 days, Berrymans is the only igniter friendly stuff I have found, I had it also happen on a little 13/4 hp to, it took 2 friends to help unstick it at a threshing show, after I left gas in the tank for a year. Theory is, the ethanol in todays fuels will react with todays oils, and makes a super glue like shtuff. You might put a can of Berrymans fuel treatment in the tanks and maybe spray some choke cleaner in the cyls after a run, so to clean the rings of any that might be in it yet, you can see it on the valve stems when you sprayed the brake cleaner in them.
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I’ve been riding motorcycles since I was 21, 1977 (I didn’t get my drivers license until then because I liked to party,and didn’t want to be killed in a car I was driving drunk). One time a flatbed truck backed from a wheat field, in Oregon, completely across the road, had to lay it down to avoid hitting it. Didn’t see it until it was coming out due to all the tall brush along the country road. Just got scrapes on my NEW BOOTS, and my jacket, luckily. Move on to 2005, was riding my motorcycle back home after going to the 4th of July parade, I was stopped at a light, I looked in my mirror, for some reason, and saw this white van with a lady who was talking on her phone. I thought, “she isn’t going to stop” I said it to myself a couple of times. I couldn’t get out of the way because there was cars on either side and motorcycles in front of me. All of a sudden she hits me at about 15-20 miles an hour. By the way, I had just gotten out of a HALO from a broken neck approximately a month before, that I got from a airbag hitting me in the face, all this is running through my mind. I felt the back of my legs get impacted and the rest of my body being shuttered as well. I looked around and my back fender was stuck in her bumper and grill. The police were called and she never got out of the van to see if I was ok or anything. She just sat behind the wheel until the police came. She was ticketed for careless driving and also having no insurance. I was taken to the Hospital and had head to toe X-rays and scans, but luckily I didn’t have any broken bones anywhere including my neck that heavens. Had blue,green,yellow,and black bruises for about a month on the back of my legs. Luckily I haven’t had any more exciting moments on my motorcycle. I rode it yesterday. I wonder if someone was trying to tell you something, from beyond? You never know! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
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This is why I am the only one who does diagnostic at the shop I work at. 90% of mechanics in the industry don’t know how cars work, how can they have any chance of diagnosing them? Too bad for the shop I’m working at they don’t know how to keep a good tech, tomorrow is my last day not only at this shop but as a tech in general. Maybe it’ll change someday, but given how difficult it is to find a quality tech, shops really should try harder to keep the good ones, and our pay should be commensurate with the experience, investment in tools and continuing education that we have. Instead, I get paid the same or less than the flat raters at my shop because they get 200+ hours a month doing the repairs that I specified during my diagnosis and inspections. There is no reason that a good quality diagnostic tech should be making less than $100,000 a year in my area (given the cost of living here, plus the extremely small pool of good employees and techs to choose from), and nobody pays that much. Only flat raters taking short cuts and swapping parts like crazy make that much. It’s a shame, but oh well. On to another industry that supports skill and hard work.
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