Hearted Youtube comments on Endless Money Pits (@EndlessMoneyPits) channel.

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  2. In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist).   Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification.   Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation. Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is: 1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations 2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at **HALF** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves. Constant oil changeout - ON TIME , .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - ...... is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle.   For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in *long term* driving conditions to be long-term-reliable). Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES. Hope this helps. ;-)
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  6. In order to decide on oil change intervals, you have to consider your driving conditions. The deterioration of the oil is dependent on how many cold starts you perform, and on whether the engine is run up to operating temp each time you run it. If you tend to run short errands with a delay between trips, your oil will deteriorate more quickly. During warm-up, acid and water vapor is created during this period. If you get the engine all the way up to temp, most of the water vapor evaporates and blows out the tailpipe. The acid that occurs during the warm-up process just collects in the oil, contaminating it. Also a consideration is whether you do much driving in excessively dusty conditions. To simplify all this, if you drive 200 miles on the highway, your engine will get more wear during the first 2 minutes of warm-up than it will during the 200 miles of driving. All of these factors are why it is difficult to have a single hard and fast rule about intervals. Also, if you are using synthetic oil, it is more resistant to deterioration. Also, if your engine is turbocharged, this is very hard on the oil, much like the effects of large amounts of steroids on a human body. If you talk to a mechanic, they will invariably tell you that turbocharged engines nearly always have a shorter life than non-turbo versions of the same engine. A engine -oil analysis is a really good way to measure the best interval for oil changes for your own type of driving, but it doesn't tell you much about your neighbor who has a different pattern of use. BILL
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  80. The deterioration of modern synthetic oils is largely determined by how a vehicle is used. For vehicles that do a lot of cold starts and short trips, oil will deteriorate in far fewer miles than in a vehicle that is operated at temperature. This occurs as a result of increased blow by in a cold engine, increased richness in the mixture and insufficient heat in the oil to "steam off" fuel contamination. It is likely that the reduced flashpoint in this oil sample is the result of fuel contamination in the oil. I would have perceived this to be an indicator that more frequent oil changes are required, but I'm not an engineer or a chemist, the people in the lab, are! I'd listen to them, not me. It's worth keeping in mind a few considerations that vehicle manufacturers may or may not have when specifying oil change intervals. The volume of the oil in the vehicles lubrication is a factor. Manufacturers may or may not be safeguarding against use case. They don't know whether your driving a mile to work and back, each day, or doing a fifty mile round trip. They also don't know what quality oil you will be using. They may or may not take this into account. They also don't know what environment you will be operating the vehicle in, however this is less of a consideration with modern quality synthetic oils. They may or may not factor this in. Why do I keep saying "may or may not"? The short answer is marketing appeal vs. Longevity. People, especially fleet buyers, look at long service intervals favourably when appraising a vehicle for purchase. And it's worth keeping in mind that a vehicle's warranty is only for "X" miles an "X" time, and "reasonable durability" has an expiry date, too. You've got to ask yourself the question: Was the service interval determined by an engineer, an accountant, or a marketing man? Remember, they sell "sealed for life" transmissions, too! Of course, you are going to service a new vehicle in accordance with specifications in order to maintain the warranty. Beyond that, though, the choice is yours, and should be determined by the vehicles usage and the mileage on the engine (high mileage vehicles can be harder on oil). In some cases, 4,000 mile changes might be overdue, in others, 12,000 mile changes might be fine. Nobody likes wasting money, time or resources. But how much does oil cost, and how much do you use? A couple of gallons of oil in a year, for the next 50 years is still going to work out a lot cheaper than a new engine.
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  174. 220 is not bad. The thermostat is set at around 190, and the fans start operating at around 225 and 235 I believe. Your shouldn’t run the engine hard either until 200f. It is the design of the engine. I live in Florida, drive in stop and go traffic and mine averages around 225 which is normal for traffic and falls back to around 210 on the road. Things you can do to bring that temp down if you want, however, like I said before, those temps are perfectly normal. -Blow out the radiator and a/c. Because of the design of the forced air for radiator these things will suck up grass and debris off the road and create a little hay bale inside that cavity. Lots of tutorials on how to do this online. - a good coolant flush, then refill with proper coolant. When doing so replace the cap with a new one. - you can change to a lower thermostat, still wouldn’t recommend this, let the engine heat up like it is designed. If you plan on adding anything for more horsepower and output, then a lower thermostat might be a viable option. - check your harmonic balancer. These are known to go bad and slippage can happen causing the pump to not run efficiently. If the balancer was bad however, you would be able to tell from it moving forward or backward rubbing on rack or timing cover housing. - and lastly you can use a programmer like HP tunes to change the temperature settings of the fans on and off. Again, beautiful car, I have an 01 c5 convertible in torch red also with 260,000 miles on it. 220f is normal. Hope this helps.
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  433. Definitely some impressive information here. Personally, when I read them say “the oil filter could see some more use” I took it as though you could possibly elongate the oil change interval, not reuse it as it wouldn’t last for another entire cycle. I would have liked to have seen the results from the last analysis done with a fresh oil filter. As for the low presence of detergents and lubricity additives after the 10k mile change, I would assume a good bit of that is from the wear and heat cycling the oil goes through. It seems as though ~7.5k miles may actually be fine. This being said, I check the condition of the oil on the dipstick and usually do mine in 3-4K mile intervals depending on its color. Though my last oil change (m54 325ci ~253k miles), admittedly from me being lazy, was just over 6k miles and I was not happy with my perception of its condition. The engine ran smoother afterwards and I will personally continue to keep the 3-4K mile intervals even with this newfound knowledge you’ve shared with us. That being said, I thoroughly respect and enjoyed the response that the company gave you, and I will be taking a sample from my m50b25tu e34 and sending it to them for analysis. Excellent professionalism and customer service is earning them some more business by “word of mouth” reputation. I hope they give you a free analysis for your next cycle for the additional business and good PR you’ve given them from your own due diligence and good nature of sharing. Thank you and I hope you get many more years of fantastic service out of your world class in-line six BMW! P.S. I don’t redline mine daily, but they both pull to redline without complaint when I do ask it of them. Absolutely impressive machines!
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  516. It should be very obvious now that the age of the oil or time in service is not the issue, but contamination. I run a bypass oil filtration system on my semi truck, a 2006 International 9400i with a caterpillar C13, and I believe at my next service interval this oil will have 300,000 miles on it. I do oil samples every 20,000 miles, and once the oil sample comes in, when the oil is cleared for continued service, I lube the chassis and change all filters. in the last 1,100,000 miles, I’ve had to change the oil twice; once when the engine was finally due for overhaul at 1.1 million on the odometer, once due to coolant contamination when the cylinder head from that overhaul failed prematurely under warranty, and there was one unnecessary change when a technician did not follow instructions and dumped the oil out, so I got free oil. Filtration is where it’s at. I run Rotella T6 15W40 full synthetic oil, which technically is not synthetic at all, but normal petroleum-based oil refined to synthetic levels as most “synthetics” R (European spec Castrol, Amsoil, Schaeffers, and Mobil1 being the exceptions). The engine consumes 1 gallon between 20,000 mile filter change intervals, and filling the filters takes about 1.5 gallons. Therefore, roughly 25% of the oil is refreshed every service interval (total capacity 10.5 gallons). Recognizing that, with proper Filtration, the oil can last nearly indefinitely if it does not become contaminated, you’ll soon realize that it’s completely within the realm of possibility to simply change filters and top off the oil if you are doing oil samples to confirm that the oil is still viable. That haven’t been said, a 5 quart jug of Mobile1 at Walmart is $24, add an oil sample is $30. That’s easy math to figure out! So, if you want to ensure longevity of your engine, don’t go over 5000 miles on most engines, as their minuscule oil filter elements don’t have the filtration media area capable of filtering the oil very much past that point, and only use OEM filters.
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  857. You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The main killer of an engine is not the degradation of the oil as in former years, but the accumulation of carbon that floats around in the oil and the tighter clearances used in modern engines. The best oil filters only filter the oil down to 15 microns (0.6 thou) but the bearing clearances on a modern engine are around 30 -45microns (1.2 - 1.5 thou) or less. This means that chunks of carbon 15 microns thick that are held in suspension in the oil only have a buffer of 7.5 microns at best of oil before contact is made at the bearings. You can tell if your engine runs these close clearances by the grade of oil used, the thinner the oil, the closer the clearances. The reason that your oil goes black is the carbon that is floating around in it, hopefully smaller than 15 microns across and any metal in the oil is the result of the big bits of carbon scraping them off the bearings. Additionally, modern synthetic engine oils are designed to hold the carbon in suspension rather than allow it to cake on the internal engine surfaces, as occurs with dinosaur oils, that can cause even more harm. By changing the oil frequently the larger chunks of carbon are flushed out of the system. You can actually feel the difference between clean oil and used black engine oil when you rub it between your fingers, the used oil will feel grittier. How much carbon is generated is dependant on a number of factors like the use of the car, the age of the engine, its previous maintenance regime etc etc. The engine oil should be changed AT LEAST as frequently as prescribed by the manufacturer although every 6,000miles would be a good value to use, any longer and you are damaging the engine. To further minimise wear the oil filter must be pre-filled prior to start up to ensure that the bearings are not initially starved of oil until the filter is filled and it is best to turn the engine over without load i.e. without the spark plugs in, until oil pressure is achieved that can be seen to be several crucial seconds. If you are changing the oil then it is mean not to change the oil filter at the same time, especially given their low cost. They could last a further one or two oil change periods but they contain some of those nasty big chunks of carbon that do all the damage. Oil can be filtered down to 1.5microns using a bypass filtration system like Kleenoil, at that filtration the oil change periods can be easily extended to double or even treble the change frequency as the carbon particle sizes have little effect on the lubrication. Large truck fleet owners are seeing big advantages in reduced maintenance down times as a result. Existing full flow oil filtration cannot reasonably filter below 15microns because oil flow has to be maintained and to accommodate even a modest improvement the filter would have to be exponentially larger.
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  993. Its such a subjective matter that there is no hard and fast rule.It's only the manufacturers recommendation,the key word being recommendation.its all made up rubbish anyway( companies like Lexus offer company buyers halved service intervals to that offered to private buyers on the exact same vehicles).There are too many variables to be precise, Engine type,fuel type,fuel brands,oil brands,environment,driving style,long journeys,short journeys,town use,motorway use............ The problem is that with the modern car the oils workload is ever increasing,turbos on almost everything and valvetrain control,vvc,multiair etc.relying on it for correct actuation .tighter tolerances etc.smaller engines working harder and hotter than ever before. There used to be a saying that any oil is better than none but its got to the point where even the wrong specification of the right grade can be detrimental. I used to keep a couple of 205 litre drums of a couple of different oils, a c3 5/30 and 10/40,now I would need a workshop the size of the boeing building just for the different oils,I have to keep about 40-50 different transmission fluids now too,its ridiculous.Only you know how the above variables apply in your particular case,changing oil isn't rocket science and assuming that you have done or are contemplating doing your own then Im assuming you have enough common sense to work out for your self as to when to do it. What I can tell you is that most of the cars I see with serious issues arising from obvious lack of oil changes( baked crud internals😂)is that they tend to be smaller diesel cars,and for diesel cars in particular I would err on the side of caution,having more knock on effects from poor oil condition than your average petrol engine.
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  1062. If the OP used better oil and filters, his results would be much different with better results. Amsoil Signature series is one of the top three oils available, especially if you are using a good filter from them or a top brand or model (There are really only two main oil filter manufacturers). The oil and filter the OP is using isn't even close to Amsoil quality or does it have the additive package to remotely match it. I would bet an oil change that if he switched to one of these oils and filters listed below, he would have better oil analysis results and longer engine life. I have does exhaustive oil testing on oils and filters worth thousands of dollars on five vehicles, three cars and one is a C7 Z06, one 2010 hybrid, and a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee plus two HVAC work vans. I have tested oils from 5000-6500 on the vans and 5000, 7500 and 10k on the hybrid and the Grand Cherokee as that is factory recommended. The Z06 is based on how much I race it. It has 800whp on E85 and methanol injection and gets changed much more often, but have found that the racing has barely made a dent in the additive packages or wear metals. I am flabbergasted at how well the top three oils and filters have had incredible results far and beyond the crap formulation of Castrol Edge Titanium, Mobil1 Extended Performance and Mobil1 filters, oils like Royal Purple, STP, Super Tech/Kirkland (Warren oil company), etc are all junk compared to the oils listed below. I am only talking Full Synthetic oils and the results I have found. I don't test or use conventional oils or Synthetic blends, so I have no results for those. Engines are expensive and oil is too cheap to not use the best available. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline EP HM is around $40-$50 depending on which filter you choose. I have my results from Blackstone labs and continue to test every other oil change and I now know which oils and filters I choose to use in my vehicles based on my testing. Use these oils and filters for the best results: Amazon and Walmart will have all the oils and filters besides the Amsoil. Preferred members get dealer pricing. TBN on Amsoil is 12.5 out of the bottle as virgin oil. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Amsoil Signature Series Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage Redline as a distant fourth. Amsoil EAO filter (EK, if no EAO is available) Fram Endurance filter Purolator Boss (Produced by Mann-Hummel) Both top two filters are made by Champion labs One note: Any vehicle that runs a 3614 filter and has enough clearance can run a 3600 oil filter for better results which is also the Amsoil EAO34 or the Fram FE3600 (They are identical filters). Whip City has all the oil filters tested. Plus I cut my oil filters open after each change to check for metals or carbon. Remember, filter magnets or magnet oil plugs only catch ferrous metals and any metal like aluminum, etc etc will not still to a magnet and needs to be trapped in the filter. Feel free to send any questions or comments to me. Also, lookup Ford Boss Me on YouTube for further oil analysis and testing. The guy is a master Mechanic and owns his own shop.
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  1102. I think... that as much as you did a great job here, more detailed steps and analysis are needed. Castrol is a good oil, but there are better ones out there, objectively speaking... such as Mobil 1, Super Tech from Walmart (actually shown this on Project Farm and from it's specs and certifications), and even Amazon brand oil is really good. Can't speak for Kirkland, but Valvoline and Penzoil Ultra Platinum and even Penzoil Platinum are great. Additionally, you're using a filter I don't think most have heard of, at least I haven't. With your car being higher mileage, I'd go with a filter that is better designed to work specifically with a full synthetic like a Purolator One, Purolator Boss, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Extended Protection, Wix (and it's variations for high mileage/full syn oil), etc. The biggest thing here is that you're seeing a scientific result that your Castrol Full Synthetic is doing an amazing job at wear protection within it's designed limits... and while the engineers at BMW recommend 15k mileage, you can see the oil you're using is NOT up to the task. I too wouldn't feel good about that range, especially with an older car like that with the miles. However, if you were using an oil that was specifically built for that kind of abuse, I would be very willing to bet you'd get good or better results than you did here at 10k. Lastly, my point here is not all filters, engines, or oils are the same. Oil has come a LONG way in just the last 10 years, let alone 50! Full Synthetic is always better than anything else, however... not all full synthetics are the same! If you're willing, do this again with a Mobil 1 extended life filter and a Mobil 1 Extended Life Full Synthetic... or what would be more appropriate, a Mobil 1 normal filter with their Mobil 1 Full Syn High Mileage oil. Great video, love seeing BMWs that actually live a long life (modern ones are such crap!) and I subbed because I'd like to see more content. I'm not a mechanic, I could of course be wrong... this is all just knowledge I've picked up along the way of working on cars and around mechanics myself. I'm 37 and currently driving a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD with a 5-speed manual transmission (the 4WD is manual shift too, not electronic crap) and it has over 212,000 miles on it and it doesn't burn any oil that I'm aware of. However, there was a very noticeable difference when I put some high mileage Super Tech full Syn oil with a Mobil 1 filter on it. It was 3 qts low out of 6 when I got it given to me and had some leaks around the valve covers and oil filter originally on it. I feared the worst but it's got no more oil light on startup, runs with no bad sounds, and is much smoother now. The thing is a tank, here's to hoping yours goes another 300k!
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  1167. I don't think your increased wear metals has to do with your 10,000 mile interval; I recently did a 23,000 mile oil change on my 2011 Camry V-6 that 252,000 miles on it at the time and my wear metals are nowhere near yours, and yes, I drive it hard too, having taking it to redline many times & WOT up mountains, etc. When you drive your engine to redline or drive it hard, are you waiting until it is fully warmed up or do you do it anytime? This can cause increased wear if you're not waiting for it to warm up. Also, it is concerning that the report indicates an increase in viscosity; this is typical for conventional oil that has more volatility where the lighter volatile components of the oil are burned off, resulting a thickening of the oil. Where is your TBN (total base number) test? This is an added test that is required if you're going to run longer intervals. This test shows how well the additive package is neutralizing acids in the oil and is what dictates whether or not the oil is still good. TBN starts around 7 for fresh oil and drops as use it; when it drops to below 1, that's when you change the oil. You've got other problems for your increased engine wear. Again, my 23,000 mile change with mobil-1 5W-30 was perfect - nowhere near as bad as yours. For reference, my Blackstone report showed aluminum of 5, iron = 13, Moly = 74, and my viscosity was the same as new, and TBN was at 1.8 so it was still fine at 23,398 miles on the oil. I typically change my oil at 20,000 miles and the engine is perfect, doesn't burn oil and is nice & clean inside. it now has 272,000 miles on it.
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  1272. Non-use usually isn't the issue for most people, it's that most people drive regularly (so say 10,000 - 15,000 miles per year as normal) BUT still only change their oil once per year and then wonder why they have issues later on as the vehicle ages. Part of this is due to mfrs telling people that cars can go 10,000 miles or 6 months between oil changes. The latter may be fine, but I would never drive a car 10,000 miles on a single oil change even if it was the best synthetic oil around. Tiny particles of metal can still make their way into the oil even on brand new vehicles as engines wear over time, and this can lead to huge problems later. Changing your oil regularly especially if you drive a lot, is crucial ( I still go with the old 5,000 miles or every 6 months rule, despite Toyota telling me that my car could go 10,000 miles between oil changes... plus newer cars use a thinner oil -- 0W16 or slightly heavier 0W-20). I'd say if the opposite was true say you were using 10W-30 oil or even 5W-30 you could push it a bit more, but not with modern thinner oils I wouldn't. They primarily go to thin oils for fuel economy but the catch is you should really change it more often than what the mfr says, or you WILL wear out your engine faster since the oil is thinner, but you're also going longer on the oil changes, both of which are a bad combination compared to older cars. Of course machining and metalergy has come a long way and they can make metals that are more durable and can run with less or lighter lubrication and improve fuel economy, but at the end of the day, I would still say 5,000 miles or 6 months is a good rule to live by for oil changes, regardless of how little you might drive. You could maybe stretch it to 1 year IF you don't drive it that much, but I wouldn't personally. Oil is cheap, engines (new or rebuilt) are not.
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  1549. You could use your Jeep and a piece of lumber to break the bead. Helps to have a buddy, but just lay the board on the wheel in the correct spot then drive your jeep onto it. Or, get your jeep near-ish to a load bearing surface like a wall stud and use a bottle-jack braced against the jeep wheel to squeeze the tire against the stud. Basically you are making a vice with your Jeep and a wall. You can also use a second motorcycle by using the side stand, or if you have the strength (or a friend) you can use the motorcycle you took the wheel off of. Lots of creative ways to break a bead. Didn't hear you mention to grease the axles (maybe I missed it?), but I do see they're greased from the video. FYI I also grease the threads, it helps prevent wear from repeated use, but be aware if your manual does not specify to do this you must REDUCE the torque spec by about 20% since lubricated threads have less friction to overcome. My Ducati calls for almost 140ft/lbs of torque on the rear axle, which required I get one of those massive 4-foot long torque wrenches, and it always kind of sketches me out when torquing because I apply so much force I compress the suspension when doing it! With greased threads I only set it to 110ftlbs, however, which is slightly more manageable. Good choice on the tires. The Michelin Road series is easily the best sport-touring tire on the market. They have a really soft carcass compared to most so heating the tire prior to install isn't all that necessary, they're quite flexible, especially compared to the Pirellis you took off.
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  1759. I always change my oil at half whatever the manufacturer recommends, so if they say 15K, I change at 7.5K. 20K, I change at 10K (or less). Why? Well, years ago I bought a Land Rover from a dealer that actually had (back in the early 90's) a machine to analyse engine oil. They had checked the oil on literally thousands of vehicles, and found that oil was basically useless at the 6K mark on Diesel engines, and 10K on petrol engines. Also they advised filter changes with every oil change, as the cost is so low it really is a no-brainer. From what I see and hear, things haven't changed too much even today. So the advice is still good. My personal experience? 1999 Focus 2.0 petrol, bought new, oil changed every 7.5K. Sold that car (to my brother in law) in 2015 with 185,000Km, engine in perfect condition, full compression, etc. Fast forward to 2023 and it now has 330,000Km and the engine is still perfect and going strong (it has always had oil and filter changes at 7.5K). Triumph Thruxton 900, bought new in 2007 (carburettor version). Oil and filter changed every 5K/yearly. This now has 70,000Km and, again, is perfect, pulls as it did when new and still has the original clutch plates. I have other cars and bikes, but they were not bought new, so I don't know when maintenance has been done (presumably the manufacturers specs). In both these controlled cases, exhausts are clean from carbon (so I presume valves are also clean), emmisions testing (very strict in Europe) never been an issue, and that steady drip-drip of water from the exhausts (normally seen on new/low mileage vehicles) is still present at start-up.
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  1898. I just came across your YouTube channel a couple weeks ago and I really like it! I'm learning so much on how to do my own maintenance and upgrades (.....saving me a boat load on labor charges, which = $200+ an hour here in Virginia). It blew my mind that you and I own two of the same motorcycles (well, I have the 2015 Cb500F, but basically the same thing as the CBR500... I also have a 2008 Yamaha XT250). I bought a 2023 Kawasaki Ninja Zx6r last winter too, but for the 2-3 weeks, I haven't touched/rode the Ninja because I'm back to loving my CB500F again! Because of you, I get so many comments on how good and clean my CB500F looks! I could never see me selling my CB500F. The blue book value is only around $3000, and there's NO WAY I could sell it for that price! I'd rather keep it as a reliable, back-up bike, rather than having a measly $3000 where it would be very hard to find another bike of this stature and cleaness, for around $3000. With being able to do my own maintenance and mods on the CB500F, my decision was to basically keep my 2023 Zx6r stock (only installs were Woodcraft rearsets, ASV levers, fender eliminator, and engine guards/frame sliders). I do not need to tear apart a brand new $13000 bike and add a bunch of aftermarket parts, which would be much more costly to do, than on my CB500F. Eventually, the goal for the CB500F is to build her as a hobby /"entry level" weekend track bike (but still street rideable and legal). Its gonna be so cool and a money pit 🤣 Thanks again for these CB500 videos mate! You should make a "rear shock adjustment" video or a video with "how to install steel brake lines", replacing the rubber brake lines. That would be awesome 👌. Anyway, I apologize for the crazy long comment/msg, but there's going to be more these long comments coming soon because its just what I do (folks don't have to read it if its too long for them, ....and no need to be mean and bitch about a long comment just to be mean). Ok mate, thanks again for your time.........Oh yeah, one more thing, I wanted to also meantion that your video making format is VERY cool and easy to follow. I like how you show all the tools needed in each video. Little things, like that, where you add in your videos separates you from the rest of the "YouTube herd". Great quality videos! Ok friend, ride safe and be well.
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  2312. Good job (vehicle choice, driving habits__routinely hitting redline, as do I__video quality and pertinent content)! I've been on the oil analysis band wagon since the early-1990s. Initially, it was a Quaker State Oil promotion that got me started (more on the QS oil later...); one (1) year supply of FREE OIL and analysis by Titan Laboratories in Colorado. My "fleet" at that time consisted of a couple of MGBs (rdstr & GT coupe) and I was probably averaging about 12-15k miles per year/per car. I had historically been a Castrol oil advocate since buying my first (brand new) MGB in 1973. Ultimately, I only ran the QS oil for about 6k miles in each car, as the sludge build-up was incredible (valve-adjust intervals at 6k miles, so a mandatory look at the valve train). Upon removing the valve cover, I couldn't believe my eyes, as there was a perfect silhouette of the inside of the valve cover shaped out of (dry) sludge! I physically removed what I could, then did a couple of back to back oil changes with my beloved Castrol GTX (1000-1200 mi intervals) and by the next routine valve check/adjust, conditions were back to normal. But I digress... I continued to use the Titan oil samples through the year 2000 and beyond. At some point early in my foray into BMWs ('99 M Rdstr purchased CPO w/5400 miles in November 2000) I transitioned over to Blackstone's analysis. Since I still had some prepaid Titan samples left, I sent samples to BOTH labs a couple of times, receiving nearly identical results (a 1 or 2 ppm difference being negligible, right?). Satisfied myself that they were both honest ;) Since the CPO M Rdstr included "free" oil changes averaging 9000 mile intervals, I elected to do an oil service myself halfway between the ones done at the dealership (who also pulled oil samples for me at those intervals). Same tactic was applied to our next BMW purchase, a new 2001 M Rdstr. Being (so) old school, and coming from cars that required oil changes at 3000 mile intervals, I NEVER could wrap my head around 9,000-15,000 mi oil services, which coincidentally became recommendations simultaneously to BMW including oil service during the warranty period, so 4500 miles works well for me. Forty-five hundred (4500) miles is also the "test average" Blackstone has for the S52 & S54 engines in three (3) of my current cars, so I'm hardly alone on my thinking. We're now into our ninth (9th) BMW, and I'm still pulling oil samples to send to Blackstone more than two (>2) decades later, and typically at 4500 intervals, though some of the cars take a lot longer to go that far than they did when I was commuting every day! Our current fleet stands at: 1957 Austin-Healey 100/6 2-seater; purchased 4-1-1978 1967 MGB GT; 8-5-2020 (under restoration) 1999 BMW M Rdstr; 11-11-2000 1999 BMW M Coupe; 2-2-2014 2001 BMW M Rdstr; 8-30-200 2016 BMW X5M; 12-7-2018
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  2579. Maybe a half century ago when I was a very young man, I read a story in Popular Science about this new fangled synthetic oil developed by Mobil. They ran an engine on the dyno for 100,000 miles equivalent only adding oil to keep the level up. After 100,000 miles, they tore the engine down. The engine was like new. Zero piston ring ridge. Machine marks still visible everywhere. Point being oil changes with synthetics is probably a waste of time, money, and resources. If you have oil consumption of one quart every 4,000 miles and a crankcase of 4 quarts, you are effecting an oil change every 16,000 miles. With every quart of new oil, you are replenishing the detergents and viscosity index improvers. If your engine uses no oil, of course, this wouldn't hold true. It's possible that the better results after not changing the filter is due to increased filter efficiency. Unlike what many people believe, a filter filters better with increasing crud caught in the media. In a real world application like in a car, that means it filters better and better until so clogged the bypass valve opens all of the time. Speaking of which, said bypass valves will often open when the oil is cold, especially with high revolutions. So, the reality is, one's oil is only getting filtered most, not all of the time. I used to be a filtration engineer. Don't forget that in oil analysis, a lot of the number for OK/not OK are purely subjective. I wonder what the numbers would have been for Mobil's 100K mile engine. Probably not so good, and yet.....
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  2903. My pleasure and thank you . Here's something interesting: When I first became a mechanic back in the 70s the Recommended interval for changing oil for all cars was either every 3,000 or 5,000 miles I can't remember which. One day a salesman showed up from Amsoil with a newfangled oil filter. He said (Now this is a direct quote and I don't know if it's true or not) " The oil still has enough lubricating properties to be used up to 7,000 miles, But the reason they recommended Oil change interval is 3,000 miles is because of the contaminants that build up, not that the oil has lost its lubricating properties' He went on to say: With His company's new fangled oil filter That was supposedly way better than standard oil filter and with the new fangled oil they were selling that it was possible to not have to change your oil for up to 7,000 miles. This kind of ties in with what the gentleman below is saying about the contaminants being abrasive and causing wear. My thought is and again I'm very cynical: Car manufacturers are telling the public that they don't need to change their oil Is just a selling point and the truth is that: if they change their oil more often their engine would last longer Which would be bad for them since they cars with last longer. Here's a funny story: I have a 77 Toyota pickup that has 790,000 miles on it, Original motor, original transmission. (It's been through about seven clutches). When I told my buddy about it he said: " I'm sure they fixed that problem!" He's right they have fixed that problem: The new ones don't last that long! Thanks again!  @EndlessMoneyPits 
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  3008. In a nutshell, if it becomes necessary to have an oil change, after having driven a certain number of miles, then commonsense tells me that healthier cleaner oil is good for the engine, & it's associating accessories.! (SO,) how then can it be bad for any car to have an oil change, every three to four months, or four to five months.! Is it better for a person to take a shower twice a week, or six times per week.? I bought a 2013 hyundai genesis sedan, in July of 2022.! I changed the oil after about five days of purchase.! I was surprised to see how dirty the oil was.! It was jet black.! I changed the oil again after about another month, & the oil was again still very dirty.! Being dissatisfied at this observation, i made a decision to change the oil again, & did so.! To date, i have changed the oil five times, between July 2022, & April of 2023.! At the last oil change in April of 2023, i bought & used a bottle of ATS505 CRO oil system treatment.! I poured the entire bottle of liquid into the car's oil. filler tube, before releasing the old oil.! I ran the engine for about 20 minutes, steadily at about 3000rpms & then let it idle for another 2 minutes.! I then shut the engine down opened the hood, removed the oil filler cap, & dipstick,& let the engine cool down.! After about 2 hours, i drained the oil, & could smell the contents of the ATS 505CRO in the oil in the pan.! When i removed the oil filter cap, i observed that the rubber ring which was originally red in colour, had become black, & had been coated with what i concluded to b carbon.! Having drained the oil, i then opened a fresh bottle of 5/30 oil, & poured about half the content into the oil filler tube to purge out what little bit of old oil that might still b in the pan.! Having cleaned the oil filter cap & the entry port properly with carb cleaning spray, i installed the new oil filter & rubber ring on the cap, secured same properly, & loaded 6 bottles of fresh 5/30 oil.! This was done in April of 2023.! I have been checking the state of the oil on the dipstick from time to time since.! It is now late july 2023, & i am satisfied to see how clean the oil still is after 3 months of driving.! I took the advice of Scotty Kilmer about the ATS505 CRO, in one of his videos, & used the product.! It truly did clean the engine significantly, & i do believe it also cleaned out carbon from the pistons, as was evident on the rubber o/ring on the oil filter cap.! I further observed how much more quiet the engine sounds after the oil has circulated when the engine is running.! ( THANK U SCOTTY.!) I took ur advice about ATS 505 CRO, & i am satisfied with the results.! 👍👍👍👍👍r
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  3239. Understanding that you are running these oil change intervals and corresponding analyses as part of a testing scheme, your results are interesting, particularly the rapid degradation of sample oil after 7,500 miles. But I have never been able to understand why anyone, especially anyone calling himself a car enthusiast, would drive more than 5,000 miles between oil changes. My assumption would be that anyone watching your video would fall into the category of ‘enthusiast’ rather than someone who uses a car as transportation. To me it is difficult to understand why anyone with even a passing interest in automobiles as more than just transportation would allow a car to accrue 10,000 or more miles on a vehicle they value. I have always been of the philosophy that the least expensive insurance one can purchase for a car is an oil/filter change. Like you, I use good oil, in my case Liqui Moly Special Tec, and, again like you, a Mann filter. But I have never gone into 10k territory. That, at least to me, is a recipe for disaster. Relatively speaking, oil is cheap, particularly for the enthusiast driver. I’m old enough to remember changing oil by season instead of miles. And, we used straight weight oil, heavier weight in the summer and lighter in the winter. I’ll grant you that oils today are light years ahead of oils used even 40 years ago. I suppose that is the argument of the average consumer . . . that the science has advance to the point where modern oils are designed to run 10,000 or 20,000 miles. To my mind we have been lulled into the world of marketing complacency. Actually, the best way to measure oil change intervals is by hours, not miles. This is the way aircraft are maintained. Miles is an inexact science; a thousand miles for someone in Arizona is much different than a thousand miles for someone living in the Northeast.
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  3268. One of the MOST important categories seems to be left off of the oil analysis results. That would be PH or acidity. The excessively long factory oil change intervals causes two things, one of which is part of what you are seeing with reduction in metallic particulates in the middle miles oil change intervals. As the acidity increases, nylon alloy parts in the engine such as timing chain guides are attacked and the surface becomes brittle and more suceptible to attack from the combination of moisture and sulfides in the oil which break down into mild sulfuric acid, further dropping PH. So in other words, chain guides and seals need to be changed more frequently or fail earlier. As extended warranties have become more common, a lot of the manufacturers have quietly reduced their oil change intervals from stupidly high numbers of 10-15k miles down to under 10 in the 7-8k miles range. This keeps them from having to pay for so many timing chain and seal related failures while the car might still be under their warranty. The other item....reduction of metallic particles when mileage on oil increases from 5k to 7k...is also from the increasing acidity of the oil. This causes particles of certain charge polarity to either floculate and fall out of suspension or more commonly, to agglomerate into larger particles that can now be taken out by the filter. The engine is not making any less copper or iron particles at 5k than it is at 7k miles. Its just filtering better because of particle size aggregation. No more that 7k miles is ideal for Euro formula oils like your BMW and my Golf are running.
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  3527. Some of the confusion is that people incorrectly refer to this as "switching to an external regulator." The implication Is that the vehicle originally had an internal regulator. It did not. What it had was a different voltage regulator - in this case one located in the ecu. So what people are actually doing is switching their external voltage regulator. Before I installed anything, I would check some real basic stuff. Verify that the wiring between the alternator and the ecu are in good condition. That's pretty vague I know, but if you feel around and find a wire with a mushy jacket or visible corrosion, that could be the whole problem. If unsure, you can always temporarily replace that wire with something new and beefy, even if you have to trim an end and jam it into a socket and tape the shit out of it. This assumes, of course, that the output you are looking for is the stock output. If it isn't then you need the additional functionality of an adjustable vr. Those alternators will output much much higher voltage than what you're asking for - its the vr that keeps voltage down at high rpn by reducing the exciter field. So, yes - an adjustable regulator should do what you want. Whether or not the adjustment on this particular regulator will do the job is an open question. I've heard people bitch about the adjustability not working, but these were people installing a modification to a dysfunctional system and who knows their skill level. They could be as crappy a mechanic as I am.
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  3626. Yes, those oil analysis results do probably have no practical meaning in piston ring sticking? Table don't list amount of sot and other particles in the oil? I mean for each mile driven we acuminate more sot and particles that is in the oil from all the combustion cycles. Oil keeps the engine clean by making the sot and other shit floating suspended in the oil. And when drained it is "removed" when folling the oil out trough the drain plug. So now we know the sot and particles is IN the oil. We have a the lowest piston ring is a oil scrape ring. That scrape of the execs oil on the cylinder bore. When we know that the oil has sot and particles in it. So the oil scrape ring is scrapeing of oil and and sot and shit altogether (when that is in the oil).. ..we can call it solids.. We also know that the top of the piston is rather hot 🔥 and the heat is heating the whole piston that expands from that heat. Now we have in the oil, particles and sot around the oil scrape ring (also known as the oil "control ring"). Plus heat.. There is a lot of good and reliable engines from the greatest car manufacturers that has developed oil consumption and have got scraped. Now to the noteworthy those engines has worn out DESPITE the service intervals were followed!! (Because of the reasons below) When we measure RPM. Let say that the avrage rev is 2500 RPM for a engine is in use for each time unit. So every minute the oil control ring scrape of sot, particles and oil 5000 times....at 2500RPM when the piston needs to go back and travel up a long the bore again to complete a revolution. So that sot, particles in the oil is slowly accumulate and build up and the heat dry it up. So you get a sticky goo behind and around the oil control ring. Now we have ring sticking and the oil control ring is stuck and do not scrape the oil of.. No oil scraped of when piston goes down but during compression stroke the compression piston rings is by the compression pressed against the bore to keep the ceild and scrape the oil up towards the combustion chamber. There we burn the oil and there we have the oil consumption and there we shuffle that blue smoke to the catalyst converter that will also after a while fail eventually.. The auto manufacturers has increased their oil service intervals. They have also increased what is acceptable oil consumption levels.. But all is done so that they are OK that it fails outside of their warranty period so they not need to take the cost. The ONLY thing we can do is make sure to not do EXACTLY as the car manufacturers does. That goes with long intervals. Is that we instead change oil more frequently. When each oil change remove accumulated sot, particles that is suspended in the oil. Therefore will we make sure that oil control ring is doing its designed work and the sot and particles is taken care of in the oil change and new and cleaner oil will keep it gunk free.. If you want to run your car as long as possible until its weels is falling of. But if you just keep it for a short time then keep on thus practice by maximizing your distance between oil changes and pas on the issues onto later owners of the car. 😢 That is good for your wallet at the moment. But bad for the wallet and environment when seen on the car total cost during its whole life cycle.😮
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  3841. 1. thank you for your work and reports. 2. My car is not a BMW. However, I will make some comments that relate to oil changes. My car purchased new as a 2004 model. The warranty was for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever came first! The service recommendations in a manual aren't there to get you through 19 years. You have to make decisions on servicing. 3. My "oil changes" have multiple purposes. The oil change is done on a lift. You may have been told that there is no such thing as a lube job anymore with "modern cars". Wrong. Everywhere there a rubberized type seals. If they are not lubricated and crack, you will have expensive repairs. All kinds of things may have happened. Fasteners fall out. Sure, I keep a box of plastic fasteners for the specific car. However, recently, I had to make metal ones like the old days and the two I made would never have been visible from a home done oil change. The next time, I am going to have the suspension reviewed, the sway bar and whether the bolts on the frame are tightened. I will have the radiator fluid flushed at the next "oil change". The design of the power steering reservoir does not permit a turkey baster purge so that will be done as well. Also an inspection of the tires. 4. Motor oil doesn't deteriorate from sitting in a container or in a container in a car. It deteriorates from heat, intrusive chemicals/dust. A poorly chosen or designed oil filter that does not remove foreign matter causes undesired engine wear. So, for me, obtaining and providing the best quality oil filter to the mechanic at the time the car goes on the lift is the only way to go. I go with the "factory" oil filter. 5. Frequency of change. In 19 years, the driving conditions have changed radically. No more job commuting. Maybe 2 250 mile round trips a year. No more off road driving with the car on dirt roads. Multiple urban starts and stops of a mile or so. So YOU do the research and learn what happens with the oil when you start the engine. How starting the car from not operating to operating forces oil through the engine. This means you might think that filtering is more critical than whether you use regular oil or synthetic oil.
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