Hearted Youtube comments on Endless Money Pits (@EndlessMoneyPits) channel.
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In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist).
Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification.
Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation.
Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is:
1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations
2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at **HALF** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves.
Constant oil changeout - ON TIME , .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - ...... is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle.
For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in *long term* driving conditions to be long-term-reliable).
Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES.
Hope this helps. ;-)
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In order to decide on oil change intervals, you have to consider your driving conditions. The deterioration of the oil is dependent on how many cold starts you perform, and on whether the engine is run up to operating temp each time you run it. If you tend to run short errands with a delay between trips, your oil will deteriorate more quickly. During warm-up, acid and water vapor is created during this period. If you get the engine all the way up to temp, most of the water vapor evaporates and blows out the tailpipe. The acid that occurs during the warm-up process just collects in the oil, contaminating it. Also a consideration is whether you do much driving in excessively dusty conditions. To simplify all this, if you drive 200 miles on the highway, your engine will get more wear during the first 2 minutes of warm-up than it will during the 200 miles of driving. All of these factors are why it is difficult to have a single hard and fast rule about intervals. Also, if you are using synthetic oil, it is more resistant to deterioration. Also, if your engine is turbocharged, this is very hard on the oil, much like the effects of large amounts of steroids on a human body. If you talk to a mechanic, they will invariably tell you that turbocharged engines nearly always have a shorter life than non-turbo versions of the same engine. A engine -oil analysis is a really good way to measure the best interval for oil changes for your own type of driving, but it doesn't tell you much about your neighbor who has a different pattern of use. BILL
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The simple answer is to change your HIGH-QUALITY oil when it starts getting dark brown and before it gets black. Just check your warm oil on a white paper towel and change it before it gets black.
Oil stands up these days, so after a year or even 10,000 miles, the oil itself may still test good, but high concentrations of carbon (microscopic sandpaper from blowby) will cause damage. A very tight engine driven gently, may still have golden oil after 5000 miles so why change it? If you drive harder, the oil might be dark brown at 3000 miles, so change it.
A blind time or mileage change is unnecessary and ineffective.
Why are you changing clean oil or why did you wait to change black oil? Why not change brown oil? See what I mean?
Also, no need for all this flushing hype, as modern oils have detergents that keep your engine clean and your engine seals are not designed to be exposed to solvents of any kind.
If you seldom drive a car, then moisture acidifying in your oil will become a problem. This is solved by driving it for 30 minutes once a month, to burn this moisture off. Idling in the driveway is better than nothing (unregistered car), but the car really needs to be driven.
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The deterioration of modern synthetic oils is largely determined by how a vehicle is used. For vehicles that do a lot of cold starts and short trips, oil will deteriorate in far fewer miles than in a vehicle that is operated at temperature. This occurs as a result of increased blow by in a cold engine, increased richness in the mixture and insufficient heat in the oil to "steam off" fuel contamination.
It is likely that the reduced flashpoint in this oil sample is the result of fuel contamination in the oil. I would have perceived this to be an indicator that more frequent oil changes are required, but I'm not an engineer or a chemist, the people in the lab, are! I'd listen to them, not me.
It's worth keeping in mind a few considerations that vehicle manufacturers may or may not have when specifying oil change intervals. The volume of the oil in the vehicles lubrication is a factor.
Manufacturers may or may not be safeguarding against use case. They don't know whether your driving a mile to work and back, each day, or doing a fifty mile round trip. They also don't know what quality oil you will be using. They may or may not take this into account. They also don't know what environment you will be operating the vehicle in, however this is less of a consideration with modern quality synthetic oils. They may or may not factor this in.
Why do I keep saying "may or may not"? The short answer is marketing appeal vs. Longevity. People, especially fleet buyers, look at long service intervals favourably when appraising a vehicle for purchase. And it's worth keeping in mind that a vehicle's warranty is only for "X" miles an "X" time, and "reasonable durability" has an expiry date, too.
You've got to ask yourself the question: Was the service interval determined by an engineer, an accountant, or a marketing man? Remember, they sell "sealed for life" transmissions, too!
Of course, you are going to service a new vehicle in accordance with specifications in order to maintain the warranty. Beyond that, though, the choice is yours, and should be determined by the vehicles usage and the mileage on the engine (high mileage vehicles can be harder on oil). In some cases, 4,000 mile changes might be overdue, in others, 12,000 mile changes might be fine.
Nobody likes wasting money, time or resources. But how much does oil cost, and how much do you use? A couple of gallons of oil in a year, for the next 50 years is still going to work out a lot cheaper than a new engine.
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Having done maintenance work on military equipment, then supplying parts (logistics), they have a 2 tier system. If a (motor) is stationary, hours are used. On mobile vehicles, km/mph, and...hours are used. My Ford manual says 1 hour of idle time is equivalent to 33 miles of driving. I use the hour meter instead of the odometer, on my Ford/Chevy vehicles. On average, when the hour meter is at 50%, I change oil n filter, which equals every 3 months, and equivalent to 3k miles. If I follow my hour meter to 0%, it equates to 7500 miles which is also on my oil change sticker from Ford n Chevy. Suggestion..use your hour meter, if your vehicle has one. Too many people let there vehicle idle, to use there phones or entertainment systems. The result is a barely used vehicle chassis, but the drivetrain has well over 50k miles of (use). That said, when buying used, I feel any vehicle over 20k miles, on average, has well over 50/60k miles of use. Be wary..
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I changed the oil on my Honda crx, every 18-20k miles, after it hit 240k. It was at 340k and I sold it, still running perfect lol. I've never had a car that the engine died, due to oil issues. Every time, something else ended up being the thing that made the car junk, like transmission, frame etc.. Unless you really abuse an engine, it will most likely run longer than the rest of the car. I have to laugh when people get so uptight about oil, it doesn't really matter until hundreds of thousands of miles later, when the car is junk anyways.
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220 is not bad. The thermostat is set at around 190, and the fans start operating at around 225 and 235 I believe. Your shouldn’t run the engine hard either until 200f. It is the design of the engine. I live in Florida, drive in stop and go traffic and mine averages around 225 which is normal for traffic and falls back to around 210 on the road.
Things you can do to bring that temp down if you want, however, like I said before, those temps are perfectly normal.
-Blow out the radiator and a/c. Because of the design of the forced air for radiator these things will suck up grass and debris off the road and create a little hay bale inside that cavity. Lots of tutorials on how to do this online.
- a good coolant flush, then refill with proper coolant. When doing so replace the cap with a new one.
- you can change to a lower thermostat, still wouldn’t recommend this, let the engine heat up like it is designed. If you plan on adding anything for more horsepower and output, then a lower thermostat might be a viable option.
- check your harmonic balancer. These are known to go bad and slippage can happen causing the pump to not run efficiently. If the balancer was bad however, you would be able to tell from it moving forward or backward rubbing on rack or timing cover housing.
- and lastly you can use a programmer like HP tunes to change the temperature settings of the fans on and off.
Again, beautiful car, I have an 01 c5 convertible in torch red also with 260,000 miles on it. 220f is normal. Hope this helps.
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Hi, nice video and build. Probably the most complete and thoughtful "tools and material needed" I've ever seen in any video. A couple things that hopefully you haven't had yet any problems with yet - those power resistors can get HOT, so keep that in mind when locating them and when using zip ties, for instance. The other potential (probable, eventually) issue is by using those splice tap connectors - while they are very convenient, they are not suitable for use in a vehicle, ESPECIALLY an off-road rig. Unless you enjoy chasing electrical gremlins routinely, I would strongly suggest you replace every one in your vehicle with a better connection. Soldering and adhesive heat-shrink tubing in probably best, but those new butt splices with the adhesive heat-shrink and solder ball that melts are really good AND convenient. Both are much better choices. Inside the vehicle is less critical, and I generally use regular crimp connections there, but never the splice taps. I've been a professional Electrician for over 3 decades and have also done car audio and electronics professionally. I have a '99 WJ that I built. Nice rig and thanks for the great info!
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I'm so set on this bike, waiting for the 2024 model to hit the market.
1)I saw the Yoshi on their official channel and I thought it sounded great.
Until someone commented it sounds like a naked, not a sports bike.
I thought that made sense.
Don't know if you'd agree.
2) The guy that suggested to shorten the gearing, does he own one, I'm curious,or did he mention it as a general suggestion for all bikes.
Because there's a thing as too short and there's the ideal gearing.
This bike hits the rev limiter at 177km/h true speed/189 indicated, well over max power.
Max performance as far as top speed is concerned is achieved at,say,150 revs over max power.
Add the fact this is a torquey parallel twin and there's a case to be made the gearing is actually woefully short.
I understand why Honda would do this since there's not a lot of power there, they have to accommodate heavier riders and also make it livelier for reviewers and owners alike.
I can also see that at 75mph the engine is already well past max torque revs so there's defo a lot of room for lengthening the gearing.
Looking forward to getting mine in a few months and reassessing my comment, might be epic or may be embarrassing.
Happy riding 😁
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Well, good video, my uncle is an engineer for the military, aviation pro, he told me changing oil less than 10k miles is an industry trick,(the power of suggestion) so I took him up on his challenge, I didn't change the oil in my 2003 Toyota 4 runner, for 40k miles... The vehicle never had motor issues,lasted to 287k miles, and I stopped driving it because the frame rotted away!!! Good luck, do you own experiments..
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I think it's pretty conclusive: Change oil every ~7,500 miles.10,000 would be fine, if all you did is cruise on the freeway. I agree with everyone, 15,000 miles is too long between changes, no matter what the driving conditions are.
Another thing to try, is rather than going by mileage, try referencing oil change intervals to the gallons of fuel consumed. Spirited driving uses more fuel, necessitating more frequent oil changes. Distance freeway driving gets better gas mileage, therefore, you can travel more miles between oil changes. To start, I would recommend burning 50 gallons of fuel per Qt. of oil exchanged in an oil change. (If you get 25 MPG average, this puts you right at 7,500 miles, if your system holds 6 Qt. of oil) You can probably round to the nearest tank full. Oil analysis can be used, to determine the number of fill-ups between oil changes. #RED LINE FOR A GOOD TIME!!
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thank you for your research, but it is made on wrong way: if you wanted good numbers you should do it on this way:
1 install new oil filter, air filter and replace old oil with new,
2. drive it for 100miles and then replace all 3 things( do not throw it away, store it for use after research is finished) to clean engine from old dirt
3. install all 3 things new and drive it for next 5k and then take sample(do not replace oil, and filters, just take small amount of oil and send it for analysis), and do same for 7.5k and 10k.
4. now you would have consistent analysis numbers , because is not logical that 7.5k oil is cleaner than 5k oil(in you case is because 5k oil collected all dirt from old oil and old oil filter
5. dirt in oil works as positive loop-as amount of dirt rises, it produces more new dirt as milage rises, dirt in oil works as sand paper.
I replace oil and filter every 5-7000km and on 200000 chain is still as new, my oil is never black on exchange, it becomes brown
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Question, generally are standard highway miles (65 - 70 mph) or city driving miles harder on car oil? Where I'm at, nearer the windy ocean, the year round temperature is a chilly 50s and 60s F, but I don't know if high and low outside temps completely change results. I guess you could also apply my question to a place like Phoenix Arizona, with hot dry temps - highway vs city.
Edit: ok, did a little searching, and read something kind of weird: driving "on highway is better because the oil gets hotter and burns more condensation". Ok, "nice," but wouldn't also making the oil significantly hotter also cause some damage, too? I mean common knowledge - making things really hot, repeatedly, never ends well, in a lot of cases.
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It should be very obvious now that the age of the oil or time in service is not the issue, but contamination.
I run a bypass oil filtration system on my semi truck, a 2006 International 9400i with a caterpillar C13, and I believe at my next service interval this oil will have 300,000 miles on it. I do oil samples every 20,000 miles, and once the oil sample comes in, when the oil is cleared for continued service, I lube the chassis and change all filters. in the last 1,100,000 miles, I’ve had to change the oil twice; once when the engine was finally due for overhaul at 1.1 million on the odometer, once due to coolant contamination when the cylinder head from that overhaul failed prematurely under warranty, and there was one unnecessary change when a technician did not follow instructions and dumped the oil out, so I got free oil.
Filtration is where it’s at. I run Rotella T6 15W40 full synthetic oil, which technically is not synthetic at all, but normal petroleum-based oil refined to synthetic levels as most “synthetics” R (European spec Castrol, Amsoil, Schaeffers, and Mobil1 being the exceptions). The engine consumes 1 gallon between 20,000 mile filter change intervals, and filling the filters takes about 1.5 gallons. Therefore, roughly 25% of the oil is refreshed every service interval (total capacity 10.5 gallons).
Recognizing that, with proper Filtration, the oil can last nearly indefinitely if it does not become contaminated, you’ll soon realize that it’s completely within the realm of possibility to simply change filters and top off the oil if you are doing oil samples to confirm that the oil is still viable. That haven’t been said, a 5 quart jug of Mobile1 at Walmart is $24, add an oil sample is $30. That’s easy math to figure out!
So, if you want to ensure longevity of your engine, don’t go over 5000 miles on most engines, as their minuscule oil filter elements don’t have the filtration media area capable of filtering the oil very much past that point, and only use OEM filters.
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My preference is for the better filtering of the factory systems, since I am not running a disposable race car, and that should be considered as one reads my comments below.
the dyno test cited as " proof" probably was just the normal power gains that happen after the lubrication and car warmed up for the second pass, but no explanation as to the dyno test controls were mentioned beyond, "we try" (to be fair).
without an actual air intake problem to be solved, I wouldn't spend the money, but live it up if you think the professional engineers with million dollar budgets, supercomputer time and extensive testing couldn't optimize the air intake, but did manage to design the LS motor it feeds. . to get the money back performance guarantee, requires a before and after dyno run, nothing else is accepted. like any other product with questionable claims, they can always say to the judge, but your honor, we offer a complete money back guarantee, just like every penis growth pill.
I would expect with the investment of supercomputer time in the cars development, that would mean the air intake system was tuned for performance, as is commonly done with exhaust systems, because performance is efficiency, and bad fuel economy hurts sales and imposes taxes. . changing the air path obviously changes what the engine expects to receive from the air intake system.
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@cartertwowheels3358 I have heard the barcode thing about Michelins, but after mounting between hundreds and thousands of Michelin tires I can say with confidence that it doesn't matter. I have seen no discernible advantage in balancing whether mounting with the barcode or not. In general Michelins balance fairly well anyway, it's rare I have to balance with more than an ounce, extra rare if it needs 2oz or more, but that's usually due to the WHEEL instead of the tire.
Sprockets are a lot more resilient than you describe as well. While I'll agree you should remove the sprocket before the job to avoid any damage, it takes a lot of force to bend the sprockets. They are an appropriate hardness to withstand up to hundreds of ft/lbs of torque pulling on them, they'll hold up to an adult standing on them.
Same with the axle, they are a specific hardness to handle the weight and stresses of being an axle, it would be difficult to damage the threads. It can be done, and care should be taken, but it's not like they're made of chinesium or anything.
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There is so much nonsense and rhetoric around oil changes and it just keeps going and going. For me, in 37 years of driving, having owned American, Japanese, German, etc car brands I have never, ever ever had a motor fail due to an oil related issue. I've run several cars way over 200k miles and not an issue. Plenty of maintenance on drive train, shocks, brakes, bushings, ball joints, etc as expected, but never motor failure due to oil. I started using full synthetic in all my cars around 30 years ago and with that I always change at 10k miles because other wise you are just wasting money. Now, track cars, that's a different animal completely.
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You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The main killer of an engine is not the degradation of the oil as in former years, but the accumulation of carbon that floats around in the oil and the tighter clearances used in modern engines. The best oil filters only filter the oil down to 15 microns (0.6 thou) but the bearing clearances on a modern engine are around 30 -45microns (1.2 - 1.5 thou) or less. This means that chunks of carbon 15 microns thick that are held in suspension in the oil only have a buffer of 7.5 microns at best of oil before contact is made at the bearings. You can tell if your engine runs these close clearances by the grade of oil used, the thinner the oil, the closer the clearances. The reason that your oil goes black is the carbon that is floating around in it, hopefully smaller than 15 microns across and any metal in the oil is the result of the big bits of carbon scraping them off the bearings. Additionally, modern synthetic engine oils are designed to hold the carbon in suspension rather than allow it to cake on the internal engine surfaces, as occurs with dinosaur oils, that can cause even more harm. By changing the oil frequently the larger chunks of carbon are flushed out of the system. You can actually feel the difference between clean oil and used black engine oil when you rub it between your fingers, the used oil will feel grittier. How much carbon is generated is dependant on a number of factors like the use of the car, the age of the engine, its previous maintenance regime etc etc.
The engine oil should be changed AT LEAST as frequently as prescribed by the manufacturer although every 6,000miles would be a good value to use, any longer and you are damaging the engine. To further minimise wear the oil filter must be pre-filled prior to start up to ensure that the bearings are not initially starved of oil until the filter is filled and it is best to turn the engine over without load i.e. without the spark plugs in, until oil pressure is achieved that can be seen to be several crucial seconds. If you are changing the oil then it is mean not to change the oil filter at the same time, especially given their low cost. They could last a further one or two oil change periods but they contain some of those nasty big chunks of carbon that do all the damage.
Oil can be filtered down to 1.5microns using a bypass filtration system like Kleenoil, at that filtration the oil change periods can be easily extended to double or even treble the change frequency as the carbon particle sizes have little effect on the lubrication. Large truck fleet owners are seeing big advantages in reduced maintenance down times as a result. Existing full flow oil filtration cannot reasonably filter below 15microns because oil flow has to be maintained and to accommodate even a modest improvement the filter would have to be exponentially larger.
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@EndlessMoneyPits I noticed as well your channel has too diverse content which does not yield a good viewer count, what you can do is to focus on a particular category (either of cars, tests, or vehicles in general), E46 content is having most views, so either like Project Farm (general testing) or M539 Restorations (focus on BMW) or ChrisFix (in his early years - focus on different varieties of malfunctions, tips, and repairs but only on cars). It's amazing to see all of those channels when they were at their 5 digit subscriber count and now look at them, I remember when ChrisFix was at 70k-80k and now look, Project Farm as well from 20k-30k but now in the millions which is insane to me.
Sorry for the long potato post, keep it this nice content and you will see
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@EndlessMoneyPits I own a car that used to be the shop car representing a dedicated corvette garage at X cross , it runs the stock air system, but did have fitted the stiffer early style "wagon wheels" ,a magna flow axle back system, and slightly lowered. it also seems to have every possible interior screw that is not absolutely essential, removed. not sure if this was intentional, but they did go to the trouble to mix the tires, handling focused on the front, power down prioritized design on the back, like what parelli does with one supercar tire set, only these were kumhos, said to be very good for short races..
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Its such a subjective matter that there is no hard and fast rule.It's only the manufacturers recommendation,the key word being recommendation.its all made up rubbish anyway( companies like Lexus offer company buyers halved service intervals to that offered to private buyers on the exact same vehicles).There are too many variables to be precise, Engine type,fuel type,fuel brands,oil brands,environment,driving style,long journeys,short journeys,town use,motorway use............ The problem is that with the modern car the oils workload is ever increasing,turbos on almost everything and valvetrain control,vvc,multiair etc.relying on it for correct actuation .tighter tolerances etc.smaller engines working harder and hotter than ever before. There used to be a saying that any oil is better than none but its got to the point where even the wrong specification of the right grade can be detrimental. I used to keep a couple of 205 litre drums of a couple of different oils, a c3 5/30 and 10/40,now I would need a workshop the size of the boeing building just for the different oils,I have to keep about 40-50 different transmission fluids now too,its ridiculous.Only you know how the above variables apply in your particular case,changing oil isn't rocket science and assuming that you have done or are contemplating doing your own then Im assuming you have enough common sense to work out for your self as to when to do it. What I can tell you is that most of the cars I see with serious issues arising from obvious lack of oil changes( baked crud internals😂)is that they tend to be smaller diesel cars,and for diesel cars in particular I would err on the side of caution,having more knock on effects from poor oil condition than your average petrol engine.
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Great Video. Thank You! Oil/Filter Changes are the cheapest way to keep your engine in tip-top shape.
I had a 1992 E36 M50B20 N/V and the engine was largely worn out by 132,000Km . 50,000 km that I had it.
Overly rich mixtures and stuck thermostats probably aged mine.
My e36 was a nightmare cost wise. 3 Years ago I got a 2014 Lexus IS350 F Sport as my Daily. 234KW V6, 8 speed box. It is day and night.
I'll always love (and hate) my e36, but the Lexus is so cheap to own. and Gas Mileage... its almost half the 2 litre BMW 6 (33.1 US mpg Lexus on freeway Vs my e36 BMW 18.32 US mpg)
My 2.0 6 Cyl BMW made 148HP (110 kW) Torque140 lb⋅ft .
Your 2.8 made 142 kW (190 hp) 280 lb⋅ft new.
My 3.5 litre 2GR-FSE Lexus makes 314hp (234Kw) 280 ft/lb torque.
In my 50,000km of ownership, I replaced the Auto gearbox, 5 alternators, 4 batteries, a starter motor, a diff, 3 fuel pumps, 2 A/C re-gasses, new leather seats and 3 resprays. It had already blown the head gasket and been replaced prior to me buying it.
I live in Perth, Western Australia, which is similar weather to San Diego or East of there. Very hot and dry.
BMWs are Money Pits as you know. But Mercedes are twice as expensive and AUDI... well owning an aging AUDI is ludicrously expensive.
Lexus has 314HP. (234Kw) and if you are looking to upgrade in the future, Honestly, go Lexus.
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If you are not pushing the engine to it's limits of heat/wear very often, then yes oil does not degrade naturally over a few years.
It does degrade however if it it exposed to high temperatures and high revs in engine use (such as trackdays).
I drive my cars hard. I change my engine oil every 6000 miles, and have just done a gearbox oil change, and rear axle (diff) oil change too, at 41,000 miles.
I have worked in the motor industry a number of years, and have seen to consequences of poor maintanance.
BMW say my M140i needs oil changes every 15,000 miles !! WTF this is far too long. For an engine with 340bhp standard, no way, and most owners tune them (mine is 455bhp), this causes more heat and more stress when pushing the engine, and more oil degradation. I think 7000 miles is about the maximum without wasting money.
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If the OP used better oil and filters, his results would be much different with better results.
Amsoil Signature series is one of the top three oils available, especially if you are using a good filter from them or a top brand or model (There are really only two main oil filter manufacturers).
The oil and filter the OP is using isn't even close to Amsoil quality or does it have the additive package to remotely match it. I would bet an oil change that if he switched to one of these oils and filters listed below, he would have better oil analysis results and longer engine life.
I have does exhaustive oil testing on oils and filters worth thousands of dollars on five vehicles, three cars and one is a C7 Z06, one 2010 hybrid, and a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee plus two HVAC work vans.
I have tested oils from 5000-6500 on the vans and 5000, 7500 and 10k on the hybrid and the Grand Cherokee as that is factory recommended. The Z06 is based on how much I race it. It has 800whp on E85 and methanol injection and gets changed much more often, but have found that the racing has barely made a dent in the additive packages or wear metals. I am flabbergasted at how well the top three oils and filters have had incredible results far and beyond the crap formulation of Castrol Edge Titanium, Mobil1 Extended Performance and Mobil1 filters, oils like Royal Purple, STP, Super Tech/Kirkland (Warren oil company), etc are all junk compared to the oils listed below.
I am only talking Full Synthetic oils and the results I have found. I don't test or use conventional oils or Synthetic blends, so I have no results for those. Engines are expensive and oil is too cheap to not use the best available. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline EP HM is around $40-$50 depending on which filter you choose. I have my results from Blackstone labs and continue to test every other oil change and I now know which oils and filters I choose to use in my vehicles based on my testing.
Use these oils and filters for the best results:
Amazon and Walmart will have all the oils and filters besides the Amsoil. Preferred members get dealer pricing. TBN on Amsoil is 12.5 out of the bottle as virgin oil.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
Amsoil Signature Series
Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage
Redline as a distant fourth.
Amsoil EAO filter (EK, if no EAO is available)
Fram Endurance filter
Purolator Boss (Produced by Mann-Hummel)
Both top two filters are made by Champion labs
One note: Any vehicle that runs a 3614 filter and has enough clearance can run a 3600 oil filter for better results which is also the Amsoil EAO34 or the Fram FE3600 (They are identical filters). Whip City has all the oil filters tested. Plus I cut my oil filters open after each change to check for metals or carbon. Remember, filter magnets or magnet oil plugs only catch ferrous metals and any metal like aluminum, etc etc will not still to a magnet and needs to be trapped in the filter.
Feel free to send any questions or comments to me. Also, lookup Ford Boss Me on YouTube for further oil analysis and testing. The guy is a master Mechanic and owns his own shop.
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should 30-35 mm on the sidestand .. so maybe 50-55 on a bike stand is good .. but i prefer do like manual say
or if you want it perfect,. what i do i put enough pressure on rear spring with ratched strap,, and then tend the chain tight,, and then ,, take off the strap,, there you have the perfect slack,,
dont put the strap around your exhaust,, 🙂
works for any bike,, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cytkSyOqP-4
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I think... that as much as you did a great job here, more detailed steps and analysis are needed. Castrol is a good oil, but there are better ones out there, objectively speaking... such as Mobil 1, Super Tech from Walmart (actually shown this on Project Farm and from it's specs and certifications), and even Amazon brand oil is really good. Can't speak for Kirkland, but Valvoline and Penzoil Ultra Platinum and even Penzoil Platinum are great.
Additionally, you're using a filter I don't think most have heard of, at least I haven't. With your car being higher mileage, I'd go with a filter that is better designed to work specifically with a full synthetic like a Purolator One, Purolator Boss, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Extended Protection, Wix (and it's variations for high mileage/full syn oil), etc.
The biggest thing here is that you're seeing a scientific result that your Castrol Full Synthetic is doing an amazing job at wear protection within it's designed limits... and while the engineers at BMW recommend 15k mileage, you can see the oil you're using is NOT up to the task. I too wouldn't feel good about that range, especially with an older car like that with the miles. However, if you were using an oil that was specifically built for that kind of abuse, I would be very willing to bet you'd get good or better results than you did here at 10k.
Lastly, my point here is not all filters, engines, or oils are the same. Oil has come a LONG way in just the last 10 years, let alone 50! Full Synthetic is always better than anything else, however... not all full synthetics are the same! If you're willing, do this again with a Mobil 1 extended life filter and a Mobil 1 Extended Life Full Synthetic... or what would be more appropriate, a Mobil 1 normal filter with their Mobil 1 Full Syn High Mileage oil.
Great video, love seeing BMWs that actually live a long life (modern ones are such crap!) and I subbed because I'd like to see more content. I'm not a mechanic, I could of course be wrong... this is all just knowledge I've picked up along the way of working on cars and around mechanics myself. I'm 37 and currently driving a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4WD with a 5-speed manual transmission (the 4WD is manual shift too, not electronic crap) and it has over 212,000 miles on it and it doesn't burn any oil that I'm aware of. However, there was a very noticeable difference when I put some high mileage Super Tech full Syn oil with a Mobil 1 filter on it. It was 3 qts low out of 6 when I got it given to me and had some leaks around the valve covers and oil filter originally on it. I feared the worst but it's got no more oil light on startup, runs with no bad sounds, and is much smoother now. The thing is a tank, here's to hoping yours goes another 300k!
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I don't think your increased wear metals has to do with your 10,000 mile interval; I recently did a 23,000 mile oil change on my 2011 Camry V-6 that 252,000 miles on it at the time and my wear metals are nowhere near yours, and yes, I drive it hard too, having taking it to redline many times & WOT up mountains, etc. When you drive your engine to redline or drive it hard, are you waiting until it is fully warmed up or do you do it anytime? This can cause increased wear if you're not waiting for it to warm up. Also, it is concerning that the report indicates an increase in viscosity; this is typical for conventional oil that has more volatility where the lighter volatile components of the oil are burned off, resulting a thickening of the oil. Where is your TBN (total base number) test? This is an added test that is required if you're going to run longer intervals. This test shows how well the additive package is neutralizing acids in the oil and is what dictates whether or not the oil is still good. TBN starts around 7 for fresh oil and drops as use it; when it drops to below 1, that's when you change the oil. You've got other problems for your increased engine wear. Again, my 23,000 mile change with mobil-1 5W-30 was perfect - nowhere near as bad as yours. For reference, my Blackstone report showed aluminum of 5, iron = 13, Moly = 74, and my viscosity was the same as new, and TBN was at 1.8 so it was still fine at 23,398 miles on the oil. I typically change my oil at 20,000 miles and the engine is perfect, doesn't burn oil and is nice & clean inside. it now has 272,000 miles on it.
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Non-use usually isn't the issue for most people, it's that most people drive regularly (so say 10,000 - 15,000 miles per year as normal) BUT still only change their oil once per year and then wonder why they have issues later on as the vehicle ages. Part of this is due to mfrs telling people that cars can go 10,000 miles or 6 months between oil changes. The latter may be fine, but I would never drive a car 10,000 miles on a single oil change even if it was the best synthetic oil around. Tiny particles of metal can still make their way into the oil even on brand new vehicles as engines wear over time, and this can lead to huge problems later. Changing your oil regularly especially if you drive a lot, is crucial ( I still go with the old 5,000 miles or every 6 months rule, despite Toyota telling me that my car could go 10,000 miles between oil changes... plus newer cars use a thinner oil -- 0W16 or slightly heavier 0W-20). I'd say if the opposite was true say you were using 10W-30 oil or even 5W-30 you could push it a bit more, but not with modern thinner oils I wouldn't. They primarily go to thin oils for fuel economy but the catch is you should really change it more often than what the mfr says, or you WILL wear out your engine faster since the oil is thinner, but you're also going longer on the oil changes, both of which are a bad combination compared to older cars. Of course machining and metalergy has come a long way and they can make metals that are more durable and can run with less or lighter lubrication and improve fuel economy, but at the end of the day, I would still say 5,000 miles or 6 months is a good rule to live by for oil changes, regardless of how little you might drive. You could maybe stretch it to 1 year IF you don't drive it that much, but I wouldn't personally. Oil is cheap, engines (new or rebuilt) are not.
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Well the way I see it is quality motor oil and a filter is cheap,engines are very expensive. I don’t listen to anyone about these ridiculous 10,000 mile oil changes,that’s the quickest way to sludge up your engine. I have a 18 year old Toyota Camry 2005 altise 3.0 litre v6 that i bought from an elderly couple that bought it new. It has complete service history up until 250,000 kilometres,engine oil was changed every 5000 kilometres- yes every 5000 kilometres which is a little over 3000 miles for you Americans.The engine has 284,000 kilometres on the odometer,it doesn’t use oil or any fluids,oil looks clean and still new when I drop the oil and this is because it has no sludge build up inside the engine. I’ve had the valve covers off this engine to replace the seals and it looks like a new engine inside,no varnishing,no sludge,just clean glimmering metal surfaces. No matter what engine you have in your car-NEVER do 10,000 mile oil changes,it will destroy your engine. Maximum should be 5000 miles,I’d be doing it every 3000 miles.
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When conventional oil contaminants break down, they coat the components with varnish, various deposits and sludge and leave the lubricant thick, extremely hard to pump and with very poor ability to transfer heat. Cold temperatures are on the opposite end of the spectrum and cause the oil to thicken.The longer an oil change is put off, the engine in general will start to show problems. Most commonly, your engine will simply become too hot, which can cause it to run less efficiently. If the heat doesn't cause a gasket to blow, it will warp the parts of your engine.Petroleum-based oils generally require replacement every 3,500 to 7,500 miles, depending on service use. Synthetic oils can easily offer double the service life as their chemical composition does not break down over time.
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You could use your Jeep and a piece of lumber to break the bead. Helps to have a buddy, but just lay the board on the wheel in the correct spot then drive your jeep onto it.
Or, get your jeep near-ish to a load bearing surface like a wall stud and use a bottle-jack braced against the jeep wheel to squeeze the tire against the stud. Basically you are making a vice with your Jeep and a wall.
You can also use a second motorcycle by using the side stand, or if you have the strength (or a friend) you can use the motorcycle you took the wheel off of.
Lots of creative ways to break a bead.
Didn't hear you mention to grease the axles (maybe I missed it?), but I do see they're greased from the video.
FYI I also grease the threads, it helps prevent wear from repeated use, but be aware if your manual does not specify to do this you must REDUCE the torque spec by about 20% since lubricated threads have less friction to overcome. My Ducati calls for almost 140ft/lbs of torque on the rear axle, which required I get one of those massive 4-foot long torque wrenches, and it always kind of sketches me out when torquing because I apply so much force I compress the suspension when doing it! With greased threads I only set it to 110ftlbs, however, which is slightly more manageable.
Good choice on the tires. The Michelin Road series is easily the best sport-touring tire on the market. They have a really soft carcass compared to most so heating the tire prior to install isn't all that necessary, they're quite flexible, especially compared to the Pirellis you took off.
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My family has had several Prius models: a 2006, 2009, 2011, 2012 plug in, and a 2016. One thing I have learned about both the Prius 1.5L (which is the same motor as the Yaris) and the 1.8L and the 2.4L Camry my son has is that oil consumption in these models is usually due to the piston oil control rings being stuck with carbon and the piston itself not having sufficient oil circulation holes in the gland that holds the oil control ring. The only way to reliably make the engine last is to change the pistons and the oil control rings. If you can't do so, then the motor should have 5,000 mile oil and filter changes to remove the carbon not seen in the oil analysis. Otherwise the oil control rings eventually freeze in place and score the cross-hatched hone of the cylinder head. If you borescope the 2&3 cylinders with the pistons down, then do the same with the 1&4 cylinders, if you can see a small black oval score mark on the cylinder walls, your motor cannot be rebuilt without a brand new short block. The score mark will continue to get bigger and the motor will use more and more oil over time. If you have no cylinder wear materials in the oil, then it's likely that any scoring has not yet occurred.
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1. Thank you and I appreciate your sharing your experience.
2. My driving is probably less than 300 miles a month in retirement except for the visit to a relative about every 4 months. I drive a 2004 Toyota. No oil leaks. Type of driving? To the liquor store or super market.
3. The family has had 3 other units of the same generation of Toyota and each of them lasted more than 250,000 miles because they weren't doing the 10,000 mile oil changes and were not using synthetics.
4. The sales tax/increased registration fees, the additional types of insurance required on a newly acquired and financed car should enter into the consideration of the frequency of the oil changes.
If a person goes from long commutes to short hops all of a sudden, the oil analysis done last year or two years ago will, of course, become questionable as a future guide.
Just for kicks, I looked up the cost in 2015 of replacing valve seals on a Yaris. Yikes! It would be time to send it to the junk yard. With 300,000 miles and the cost of repairs, what would I do? Exactly what I did years ago in Palm Springs, Ca in the summer when the car gave up the ghost. Caught a ride back to Los Angeles. Donated the car to charity and met the charity tow service the next weekend. I drove my back up car. Make sure you either have a backup car or AAA extended towing.
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I always change my oil at half whatever the manufacturer recommends, so if they say 15K, I change at 7.5K. 20K, I change at 10K (or less).
Why? Well, years ago I bought a Land Rover from a dealer that actually had (back in the early 90's) a machine to analyse engine oil. They had checked the oil on literally thousands of vehicles, and found that oil was basically useless at the 6K mark on Diesel engines, and 10K on petrol engines. Also they advised filter changes with every oil change, as the cost is so low it really is a no-brainer.
From what I see and hear, things haven't changed too much even today. So the advice is still good.
My personal experience? 1999 Focus 2.0 petrol, bought new, oil changed every 7.5K. Sold that car (to my brother in law) in 2015 with 185,000Km, engine in perfect condition, full compression, etc. Fast forward to 2023 and it now has 330,000Km and the engine is still perfect and going strong (it has always had oil and filter changes at 7.5K).
Triumph Thruxton 900, bought new in 2007 (carburettor version). Oil and filter changed every 5K/yearly. This now has 70,000Km and, again, is perfect, pulls as it did when new and still has the original clutch plates.
I have other cars and bikes, but they were not bought new, so I don't know when maintenance has been done (presumably the manufacturers specs).
In both these controlled cases, exhausts are clean from carbon (so I presume valves are also clean), emmisions testing (very strict in Europe) never been an issue, and that steady drip-drip of water from the exhausts (normally seen on new/low mileage vehicles) is still present at start-up.
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I've been waiting for a video like this with solid evidence of using the BMW recommended or shorter interval oil changes. THANK YOU!
Question: Why do you use a Mann 925/4x instead of a Bosch or K&N filter?
Have you tested these other filters and sent the oil away for testing and results and Mann is the best?
If you haven't, would you please consider doing that, OR refer me to a link that has those results? Thx!
BTW I have a 2004 330Ci Cabriolet 6 speed with the B54B30 engine. Driving it only in summer, it has only 41,600 mi.on it. I was told by my dealer that " my car would tell me (warning info messages) when maintenance was required." However, I"ve never let my favourite car of all time go more than 6,000 mi ( 10,000 km) before getting new oil , filter, and a quick brake, suspension, etc. check underneath. It never uses oil between changes. I absolutely love this car and engine! Thanks again, I'm a subscriber!
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Hello, I am riding Cherokee ZJ 5.2 in Korea. I have been struggling for a year because of a problem with my car. Have you ever experienced the same symptoms as me? My symptoms are as below.
1. The engine does not start. (Step on the accelerator, catch it, release it and turn it off.)
2. If the heat is increased to a certain extent, RPM will be maintained
3. If you step on and off the accelerator, the RPM may drop a lot and the engine may turn off.
The parts I repaired are as follows.
ignition cable, ignition plug, crank angle sensor, air flow sensor, map sensor, oil pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, IAC valve, throttle body gasket, intake air temperature sensor, oxygen sensor, fuel filter, purge valve, battery
Help me.. I'm under so much stress. Thank you for reading the long scraps and always be happy!
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I just came across your YouTube channel a couple weeks ago and I really like it! I'm learning so much on how to do my own maintenance and upgrades (.....saving me a boat load on labor charges, which = $200+ an hour here in Virginia).
It blew my mind that you and I own two of the same motorcycles (well, I have the 2015 Cb500F, but basically the same thing as the CBR500... I also have a 2008 Yamaha XT250).
I bought a 2023 Kawasaki Ninja Zx6r last winter too, but for the 2-3 weeks, I haven't touched/rode the Ninja because I'm back to loving my CB500F again!
Because of you, I get so many comments on how good and clean my CB500F looks! I could never see me selling my CB500F. The blue book value is only around $3000, and there's NO WAY I could sell it for that price! I'd rather keep it as a reliable, back-up bike, rather than having a measly $3000 where it would be very hard to find another bike of this stature and cleaness, for around $3000.
With being able to do my own maintenance and mods on the CB500F, my decision was to basically keep my 2023 Zx6r stock (only installs were Woodcraft rearsets, ASV levers, fender eliminator, and engine guards/frame sliders). I do not need to tear apart a brand new $13000 bike and add a bunch of aftermarket parts, which would be much more costly to do, than on my CB500F.
Eventually, the goal for the CB500F is to build her as a hobby /"entry level" weekend track bike (but still street rideable and legal). Its gonna be so cool and a money pit 🤣
Thanks again for these CB500 videos mate! You should make a "rear shock adjustment" video or a video with "how to install steel brake lines", replacing the rubber brake lines. That would be awesome 👌.
Anyway, I apologize for the crazy long comment/msg, but there's going to be more these long comments coming soon because its just what I do (folks don't have to read it if its too long for them, ....and no need to be mean and bitch about a long comment just to be mean).
Ok mate, thanks again for your time.........Oh yeah, one more thing, I wanted to also meantion that your video making format is VERY cool and easy to follow. I like how you show all the tools needed in each video. Little things, like that, where you add in your videos separates you from the rest of the "YouTube herd". Great quality videos!
Ok friend, ride safe and be well.
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Great video, thanks, interesting results.
And the BMW M50 2.8 is an absolute tank of an engine, my old housemate used to have one, and I kid you not, within 30 seconds of leaving the drive, he was bouncing it off the rev limiter. Winter, summer, it didn't matter, it got thrashed, that thing was still running perfectly at 200k when it was scrapped due to rusting to pieces. On top of that, the engine oil got changed 'whenever he felt like it' which usually meant every 15-20k miles!
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Heat kills(degrades) everything, wether it be "excessive" heat in oil, coolant, bearings, lubricants of bearings, anything. Everything that was "engineered" to operate in an engine, was "engineered" with specific "tolerances" in order to operate "optimally"; when these tolerances are "exceeded", normally by excessive temperatures, those temperatures start to "break down" lubricants, which causes temperatures to rise in moving parts, which causes "friction", which causes heat of those moving parts, which increases the temp of the lubricant,... Its an "engineered" operation where everything needs to function and operate within they're "designed" perameters, and when they dont, you have problems; so yes, proper maintenance and "preventative" maintenance is mandatory for the longevity of the engine as a whole. Hope that helps.
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Hi, as a old school mechanic that went to school for auto mechanics a very long time ago, first, they did not have full synthetic oil back then, only conventional oil. I always have used Valvoline conventional personally until recently, and Valvoline full synthetic is great also. Some non domestic vehicles may require a different brand? I currently use Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic that is made from natural gas instead of crude oil. MY MAIN POINT OF ADVICE AFTER RAMBLING ON THOUGH IS I RECOMMEND CHANGING YOUR OIL IN ANY VEHICLE UNDER ANY DRIVING CONDITIONS AT 4500 TO 5000 MILES FOR SYNTHETIC OIL, AND 3000 FOR CONVENTIONAL OIL RELIGIOUSLY! AND I ALWAYS INSTALL A NEW FILTER ALSO EVERYTIME! THAT IS JUST MY OPINION THOUGH! As far as oil brands go most are good, that's up to you. On the filters, I highly recommend a good filter, I personally use the Puralator Boss for synthetic oil which are not cheap! Don't use a cheap oil filter people, and make sure the old black rubber seal doesn't stick to your engine and accidentally cause them to double up because your new oil will leak out in seconds and possibly cause engine damage, always take a peek under the vehicle to make sure there is 0 leaks if you change your own oil with the engine running. My main point is don't scrimp on money and using worn oil to save, because your engine will be happier and have alot better chance of lasting longer than taking CHANCES! Thanks for reading my rambling.
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In the EU and U.K. many car manufacturers started to extend oil change intervals around a decade or more ago, for several reasons, better engine manufacturing closer tolerance, and fully synthetic oil made a big difference, but a big factor was to appeal to car fleet buyers, the longer the gap between oil servicing the cheaper to run the company fleet, and less time of the road losing business, from memory some VW cars went to 20k miles, others used built In service intervals based on the car use, usually longer when used, rather than the more harmful short runs, when water vapour not burned away.
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I tested oil for the Army for 10 years, your lab has a lot of things wrong. Frist the elements you need to check fe,al,ti,ni,ag,mg,na,si,sn,mo,z,pb,cu,cr, b,ba, in ppm, viscosity range 195 to 300 cps. If not you wearing major components
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When I bought my new 2021 Mazda CX-5 CE Turbo w/ AWD, I changed the oil at 800 miles, and then 2,000 miles. Next, I'll change my oil at 4,000 miles on the odometer, and then after that, I'll change the oil every 4,000 miles. I only have 3300 miles on the CX-5, so I'm averaging only 1100 miles a year. I might change the oil sooner than 4,000 miles, so that I'm not changing the oil only once every 3-4 years.
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Good job (vehicle choice, driving habits__routinely hitting redline, as do I__video quality and pertinent content)!
I've been on the oil analysis band wagon since the early-1990s. Initially, it was a Quaker State Oil promotion that got me started (more on the QS oil later...); one (1) year supply of FREE OIL and analysis by Titan Laboratories in Colorado.
My "fleet" at that time consisted of a couple of MGBs (rdstr & GT coupe) and I was probably averaging about 12-15k miles per year/per car. I had historically been a Castrol oil advocate since buying my first (brand new) MGB in 1973. Ultimately, I only ran the QS oil for about 6k miles in each car, as the sludge build-up was incredible (valve-adjust intervals at 6k miles, so a mandatory look at the valve train). Upon removing the valve cover, I couldn't believe my eyes, as there was a perfect silhouette of the inside of the valve cover shaped out of (dry) sludge! I physically removed what I could, then did a couple of back to back oil changes with my beloved Castrol GTX (1000-1200 mi intervals) and by the next routine valve check/adjust, conditions were back to normal.
But I digress...
I continued to use the Titan oil samples through the year 2000 and beyond. At some point early in my foray into BMWs ('99 M Rdstr purchased CPO w/5400 miles in November 2000) I transitioned over to Blackstone's analysis. Since I still had some prepaid Titan samples left, I sent samples to BOTH labs a couple of times, receiving nearly identical results (a 1 or 2 ppm difference being negligible, right?). Satisfied myself that they were both honest ;)
Since the CPO M Rdstr included "free" oil changes averaging 9000 mile intervals, I elected to do an oil service myself halfway between the ones done at the dealership (who also pulled oil samples for me at those intervals). Same tactic was applied to our next BMW purchase, a new 2001 M Rdstr.
Being (so) old school, and coming from cars that required oil changes at 3000 mile intervals, I NEVER could wrap my head around 9,000-15,000 mi oil services, which coincidentally became recommendations simultaneously to BMW including oil service during the warranty period, so 4500 miles works well for me. Forty-five hundred (4500) miles is also the "test average" Blackstone has for the S52 & S54 engines in three (3) of my current cars, so I'm hardly alone on my thinking.
We're now into our ninth (9th) BMW, and I'm still pulling oil samples to send to Blackstone more than two (>2) decades later, and typically at 4500 intervals, though some of the cars take a lot longer to go that far than they did when I was commuting every day!
Our current fleet stands at:
1957 Austin-Healey 100/6 2-seater; purchased 4-1-1978
1967 MGB GT; 8-5-2020 (under restoration)
1999 BMW M Rdstr; 11-11-2000
1999 BMW M Coupe; 2-2-2014
2001 BMW M Rdstr; 8-30-200
2016 BMW X5M; 12-7-2018
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The cost of a new car is extremely high and availability is limited. Taxes on purchasing a new and even very old car are extremely high and especially for us in the Canadian province of British Columbia (politicians who are running shows in the provincial and municipal government of British Columbia are like those delusional imbeciles who are running state and cities of California). In my opinion, new cars are getting very complicated and with all that unnecessary technology, unreliable again. The quality and reliability of cars reached a peak in the late 1990s and the beginning of the 2000s, at least this goes for Japanese vehicles and even German vehicles like BMW. I'm talking about gasoline direct injection, turbocharged engines, plastic parts replacing metal water pumps, metal oil drain pans, even oil drain plugs, cooling hoses, valve covers, etc. No need to replace transmission fluid, it is good for life (for the life of the transmission and after the warranty expires). I'm not impressed with the recent development.
I will keep driving my 2006 Corolla and 2010 Yaris as long as they are safe on the road.
I replace the oil and oil filter maximum every three months or maximum every 3200 miles (5000 km), whichever comes first. Oil, oil filter and oil drain gasket are still affordable, but buying brand-new vehicles is not.
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Change your full synthetic motor oil and filter every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, or, every 6 months, whichever comes first.
If yours is a 1.5L turbocharged engine then try and change closer to the above 5,000 mile mark.
If you're fussy and want to change earlier then go for it.
Again: 5,000 to 7,500 miles on full synthetic, or, every six months, whichever comes first.
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Maybe a half century ago when I was a very young man, I read a story in Popular Science about this new fangled synthetic oil developed by Mobil. They ran an engine on the dyno for 100,000 miles equivalent only adding oil to keep the level up. After 100,000 miles, they tore the engine down. The engine was like new. Zero piston ring ridge. Machine marks still visible everywhere.
Point being oil changes with synthetics is probably a waste of time, money, and resources. If you have oil consumption of one quart every 4,000 miles and a crankcase of 4 quarts, you are effecting an oil change every 16,000 miles. With every quart of new oil, you are replenishing the detergents and viscosity index improvers. If your engine uses no oil, of course, this wouldn't hold true.
It's possible that the better results after not changing the filter is due to increased filter efficiency. Unlike what many people believe, a filter filters better with increasing crud caught in the media. In a real world application like in a car, that means it filters better and better until so clogged the bypass valve opens all of the time. Speaking of which, said bypass valves will often open when the oil is cold, especially with high revolutions. So, the reality is, one's oil is only getting filtered most, not all of the time. I used to be a filtration engineer.
Don't forget that in oil analysis, a lot of the number for OK/not OK are purely subjective. I wonder what the numbers would have been for Mobil's 100K mile engine. Probably not so good, and yet.....
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I recently got a new 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage. And I want to make it last as long as possible without needing to replace the engine, or transmission. So I will be changing these early. About every 5,000-6,500 miles seems good. What do you think?
I am thinking of 10,000 miles for the transmission, as that is a weaker point of the car.
I don't drive it hard, I tend to accelerate at about 2,000 RPM. In the first 500 miles I've floored it.. Maybe 3 times. Once was at a yellow light, once was going up a mountain and I wanted to see how much power it had at 7,000 feet above sea level, where it makes 62 HP. (At sea level the Mirage makes 78 HP). And once was on the freeway. Someone was getting on the same speed as me, right next to me. So I floored it from 55, to 75 MPH, up a hill. It took about 20 seconds. I am a bit concerned for the engine sense I did that during break in.
Going to do the first oil change at about 500 miles, as it can't hurt, especially since I gave it a lot of gas during the break in.
But overall, I find the car very nice. An arm rest would be nice, but I am going to make my own. And I find the engine has more than enough power. Driving around town it doesn't get higher than 2,000 RPM. I just stay in the slow lane. But you can go a lot faster in it if you wanted.
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I might do that and see what they say about the metal in the oil, it will be neat to see how it does.
The Yaris is a nice car! Sadly they stopped making them. @EndlessMoneyPits
I can't speak for all new Mitsubishi models. But the Mirage is very rare for it to be burning oil. They tend to last a very long time. Though the transmission is quite weak. Luckily, this is the lightest car the transmission is pared with, and they tend to last over 200,000 miles with proper care.
Plus, the 78 HP engine also probably doesn't wear out the transmission much, as that is pretty low powered. Most cars have about 200-300 HP, and more weight. But it's also the slowest car on the road, so the engine is working harder.. Not sure what to think.
Going up a mountain it did well. Going 35-40 MPH it was about 3,000-3,500 RPM. If you floor it, it does a bit, but not much at 7,000 feet above sea level.
But on the whole trip, 368 miles, it only used 7.1 gallons of gas. And that came out to about 51 MPG. That is very good considering I went over a mountain, and sat in 3 1/2 hours on the freeway to go 56 miles.
But now in the surface streets by the house, it's a lot of sitting. So it has only been getting 35 MPG. A Prius would do better in this situation, as the engine shuts off at the 4 minute lights.
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Yup! But it does have a lot of negative reviews. I guess most of the reviewers want more power out of it, or more features. But that is also more things to break.
I am used to auto starters, where you just tap the key, and it keeps turning the engine over till it starts. Or on the Prius it's a button.
On this, you need to hold the key till it starts. So I keep starting it part way, then it dies. Getting more used to it though.
At least it should not be a money pit, (all cars are, as there is maintenance and gas), but nothing expensive.
Out the door, taxes, fees, registration it was $19,956. The MSRP is $18,110. Quite cheap for a new car.
I was going to get a used one, till I realized the years I want are nearly the same price as a new one..
A 2021 Mirage with 90,000 miles sold for $16,600. So less than $2,000 more for a new one with a big warranty. @EndlessMoneyPits
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ASE SENIOR MASTER TECH OF 50 years here,this is what i do,and it has kept me going to fix other peoples cars for years,if you are buying a new car,no matter what the dealer and salesman says,drive 1500 miles drop it the oil and filter,from then on 3500 miles for 3 oil changes,then go to 5500 miles for each change,3 times,this keeps the oil pan clean,a clean oil pan means the oil screen never clogs,this means you can start it up and make it to your destination,you run oil to 7500 miles in 20,000 miles if it makes it,you will have engine damage,PARTS DO NOT WEAR IN CLEAN OIL,FACT,I'VE PULLED thousands of engines,transmissions and differentials apart,when i find a clean one,i check the oil make,clean means it lasts,even if you are severe duty driver,if you do not change and maintain your car,why did you buy it,if you can't afford oil drops,there's always the bus lines,no bull,cars are a luxury,same for a/c systems,modern ac system on a new car is 4500 dollars of the purchase price,just do it,cars and trucks that stay together have clean engines,esp in the hot areas of america,happy motoring
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My pleasure and thank you . Here's something interesting: When I first became a mechanic back in the 70s the Recommended interval for changing oil for all cars was either every 3,000 or 5,000 miles I can't remember which. One day a salesman showed up from Amsoil with a newfangled oil filter. He said (Now this is a direct quote and I don't know if it's true or not) " The oil still has enough lubricating properties to be used up to 7,000 miles, But the reason they recommended Oil change interval is 3,000 miles is because of the contaminants that build up, not that the oil has lost its lubricating properties' He went on to say: With His company's new fangled oil filter That was supposedly way better than standard oil filter and with the new fangled oil they were selling that it was possible to not have to change your oil for up to 7,000 miles. This kind of ties in with what the gentleman below is saying about the contaminants being abrasive and causing wear. My thought is and again I'm very cynical: Car manufacturers are telling the public that they don't need to change their oil Is just a selling point and the truth is that: if they change their oil more often their engine would last longer Which would be bad for them since they cars with last longer. Here's a funny story: I have a 77 Toyota pickup that has 790,000 miles on it, Original motor, original transmission. (It's been through about seven clutches). When I told my buddy about it he said: " I'm sure they fixed that problem!" He's right they have fixed that problem: The new ones don't last that long! Thanks again! @EndlessMoneyPits
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IMHO, if you use premium synthetic oil, here is what I’d do. Because oil change intervals depend of how the vehicle is used. Also, I would recommend checking the dipstick for color/oil consumption at least once a week.
If you use the car for HWY miles only, you could likely do over 10K.
If you do a mix, but lean towards HWY, you could do 7.5-10K.
If you do a mix but lean towards short trips/city driving, I’d change in the 5K range.
If you do all short trips, and never really get the engine up to proper operating temperature plus there’s a slight gas smell in your oil, you’d better do 3K changes.
If you want to treat your huge investment very well and have it last/be wicked reliable, yeah take the OEM’s recommendation and divide by 2. Or take the time, and spend the money, to do some oil analysis. If I was buying new today, and I keep my rigs to the end, I’d spend the cash for analysis.
These blanket oil change intervals OEMs tell people to do are insane.
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Excellent, thanks. I got my 1987 BMW 325e Coupe, with the M20 2.7L 'Eta' engine, up to roughly 350k miles. When I finally sold that car, it was going strong and still using about 1 quart of 20W50 oil each 1,500 miles, same as it did when I bought it at at about 200k miles. Not bad, especially considering that I was using Walmart house-brand conventional oil. I changed it every 5,000 miles. I used that car the same way as you, and I took really good care of it. I wasn't doing anything weird with the viscosity, the factory recommended that heavy oil for those engines - and it obviously worked.
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In a nutshell, if it becomes necessary to have an oil change, after having driven a certain number of miles, then commonsense tells me that healthier cleaner oil is good for the engine, & it's associating accessories.! (SO,) how then can it be bad for any car to have an oil change, every three to four months, or four to five months.! Is it better for a person to take a shower twice a week, or six times per week.? I bought a 2013 hyundai genesis sedan, in July of 2022.! I changed the oil after about five days of purchase.! I was surprised to see how dirty the oil was.! It was jet black.! I changed the oil again after about another month, & the oil was again still very dirty.! Being dissatisfied at this observation, i made a decision to change the oil again, & did so.! To date, i have changed the oil five times, between July 2022, & April of 2023.! At the last oil change in April of 2023, i bought & used a bottle of ATS505 CRO oil system treatment.! I poured the entire bottle of liquid into the car's oil. filler tube, before releasing the old oil.! I ran the engine for about 20 minutes, steadily at about 3000rpms & then let it idle for another 2 minutes.! I then shut the engine down opened the hood, removed the oil filler cap, & dipstick,& let the engine cool down.! After about 2 hours, i drained the oil, & could smell the contents of the ATS 505CRO in the oil in the pan.! When i removed the oil filter cap, i observed that the rubber ring which was originally red in colour, had become black, & had been coated with what i concluded to b carbon.! Having drained the oil, i then opened a fresh bottle of 5/30 oil, & poured about half the content into the oil filler tube to purge out what little bit of old oil that might still b in the pan.! Having cleaned the oil filter cap & the entry port properly with carb cleaning spray, i installed the new oil filter & rubber ring on the cap, secured same properly, & loaded 6 bottles of fresh 5/30 oil.! This was done in April of 2023.! I have been checking the state of the oil on the dipstick from time to time since.! It is now late july 2023, & i am satisfied to see how clean the oil still is after 3 months of driving.! I took the advice of Scotty Kilmer about the ATS505 CRO, in one of his videos, & used the product.! It truly did clean the engine significantly, & i do believe it also cleaned out carbon from the pistons, as was evident on the rubber o/ring on the oil filter cap.! I further observed how much more quiet the engine sounds after the oil has circulated when the engine is running.! ( THANK U SCOTTY.!) I took ur advice about ATS 505 CRO, & i am satisfied with the results.! 👍👍👍👍👍r
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I remember when I had my 95 Miata,I always made sure I change my oil yearly.since I never was able to do more than 5500km.
Also the car did burn some oil So I used to add about 1 liter in that yearly period.
To be honest I should have kept the filter lol...but it was 20$ and I didn't wanna cheap out.
I was always worried about the cold -20 start ups in the morning because I used to daily drive it here in Europe.
What I remember was that after the one year mark my hydraulic lifters would start making noise,even if the oil level is to the top.thats when I realized it's not about the miles (in my scenario) it's just the time degrades the oil...so I don't know my dad's Mercedes ml270 diesel made 15,000km yearly,but he changed his oil around the 11,500 and 13,000 mark,because most of his driving was highway in Europe at low rpm...he drove like this for 150,000km
And since it's a turbo diesel,the engine to this day the car is from 2005 doesn't burn ANY oil (or if it does it's 200ml) maximum and it's not noticeable on the dipstick.
My Mazda was used for drifting in winter and I guess the age and the wear of that engine did show...
But do note some cars,have VVTI like Toyota,BMW has vanos,some engine like thin oils,and some are big like V8 NA engines,those are bulletproof,if you try this test on older engine it would show even better result.
A big engine with low horse power is what makes a reliable engine
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I'd like to see a second 10,000 mile test. The difference between the original 10k and 7500 seems extreme for only 2500 extra miles. I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T that I change oil (Mobil 0-40 and Mann filter) every 10k. It now at 235,000 miles. I never need to top up the oil within that mileage although it's close to MIN after starting at MAX, so around 1 quart lost over 10k. Evidence suggests that at least some, if not most, of that is lost in external leakage rather than burnt. As for the comment on mechanics recommended oil changes, I would never trust such an opinion, largely perpetuated on hear'say rather than any scientific analysis. When I first moved to the US from UK, I was shocked that drivers were still changing their oil every 3-5k because that's what their dads had always done, and their dads before them. I've only ever done 10k oil changes on any car, even with regular non-synth oil, and never had any engine or related failure despite running several cars beyond 1/4 million miles, and rarely doing so gently.
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I visit these type of videos from time to time.
I change oil every 15,000 - 30,000 miles. I use the highest quality of manufacturer recommended oil viscosity I can get
So on "gasoline" vans, i have had 2 dodges with a 5.2 at 600,000 miles on 15-30k intervals. Walmart synthetic (ya, but they were Dodges. Retired due to rust not engine)
1 sprinter on Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0w40. 913,000 still starts immediately even when sitting for months
2 Ford E350 diesels, one retired at 1,000,000 miles due to body looseness, still getting 21 mpg
Other E350 diesel retired at 900,000 due to diesel price increase
Shell Rotella NON SYNTHETIC 15w40 minimim 30,000 mile intervals. 16 quart capacity
Current E250 "gasoline" 4.6, 15,000-30,000 intervals Pennzoil Pure Platinum 352,000 trouble free miles so far
Is there a point? I average just under 300,000 miles a year, and 15,000 - 30,000 mile interval hasn't affected me one bit as I've never experienced an engine failure. Use the best oil sure, but you can have a GREATER impact by buying a reliable engine platform to begin with. 5000 mile oil changes in my case are equal to or more expensive than changing an engine.
None of you will notice a difference whatever the interval with a quality oil. You don't drive enough. Waste of money, buy good oil and filters, stop thinking about it
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I like the series you've done, and what you're trying to evaluate. As a long-time manager of multiple fleets, including heavy equipment in addition to on-road pickups, SUVs, and cars, you really should use a different lab. BS Labs are very nice people, and I choose to believe they mean well, but the numbers will be just as accurate if you throw darts at a dart board. Witness your 10k mile report, which was flagrantly obviously either massively off, or a sample of a different engine oil altogether, but neither they nor you recognized it.
Plus, BS doesn't test for fuel. They simply 'infer' it from the flash point, but they don't do a good job of that. Look for a lab that tests fuel via GC, or at a bare minimum a closed-cup test, if you want to know how much fuel is in the lube.
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Understanding that you are running these oil change intervals and corresponding analyses as part of a testing scheme, your results are interesting, particularly the rapid degradation of sample oil after 7,500 miles. But I have never been able to understand why anyone, especially anyone calling himself a car enthusiast, would drive more than 5,000 miles between oil changes. My assumption would be that anyone watching your video would fall into the category of ‘enthusiast’ rather than someone who uses a car as transportation.
To me it is difficult to understand why anyone with even a passing interest in automobiles as more than just transportation would allow a car to accrue 10,000 or more miles on a vehicle they value. I have always been of the philosophy that the least expensive insurance one can purchase for a car is an oil/filter change. Like you, I use good oil, in my case Liqui Moly Special Tec, and, again like you, a Mann filter. But I have never gone into 10k territory. That, at least to me, is a recipe for disaster.
Relatively speaking, oil is cheap, particularly for the enthusiast driver. I’m old enough to remember changing oil by season instead of miles. And, we used straight weight oil, heavier weight in the summer and lighter in the winter. I’ll grant you that oils today are light years ahead of oils used even 40 years ago.
I suppose that is the argument of the average consumer . . . that the science has advance to the point where modern oils are designed to run 10,000 or 20,000 miles. To my mind we have been lulled into the world of marketing complacency.
Actually, the best way to measure oil change intervals is by hours, not miles. This is the way aircraft are maintained. Miles is an inexact science; a thousand miles for someone in Arizona is much different than a thousand miles for someone living in the Northeast.
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Eneos recommends to change after 25k km or 1 year, i change it after18k-20k top, the engine is more silent with this oil, with castrol it sounds like a tractor,consums the oilevery month i refil 0.2 L with shity castrol, in change with enoes no refil,no loud engine, engine revs more faster, and so on, in one word eneos is much better then shity castrol,i will never use it,ever!!!!
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The Engine Oil used in this BMW application, averages less than 5%, on average, "synthetic basestocks".
Engine Oils that are designed in accordance with BMW's Specificatons.... with robust additive systems capable of handling 15,000 mile drains, are very rarely found in the land of BMWUSA LLC sold vehicles..... aka USA.
This is true because there is no fair labeling law that states the actual amount of synthetic base stock must be accurately shown, again here in the USA.
The owners manual drain interval recommendations are based off utilizing much higher quality Engine Oils, COUPLED WITH much higher quality gasoline fuel....of BMWs utilized in the EU.
Engine Oil Basestocks & Additive system Content + Quality Gasoline allows the engine to go further, hence the recommendation from BMW Lube & Fuel Committee Engineers.
This BMW owner may not be aware of this.... or this BMW where may be ware and just is hoping for video bait clicks to enrich his wallet.
Extended drain are easily accomplished when Quality enters the pucture....but be careful not to buy for example deep & cheap Family Dollar offerings of 100% Synthetic oil for $3.99 per quart....
Expect to pay, for a true BMW Spec Compliant fluid.... capable of up to 15,000 _mile drains between $14 to $19 per quart as a guideline for those hat only know how to purchase based off price on the label.
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from my long term experience. Castrol is the worst oil out there, my motorcyle engine always been noisier with Castrol oil, friction noise, and stiffer gear change after 2 weeks running . . I switched to Bardhall and this noise stopped for the 5,ooo miles before the next oil change. . A few years ago, my daughter's boyfriend's bike Honda CBR 600 rr Had Castrol in it, synthetic and it too was really noisy screeching sounding while my Triumph with Motul synthetic 5,000 miles , was dead silence , , , except for the very little restrictive exhaust 😁. . .. . A good friend of mine races in old timer class. . He and his pal rode kawasaki KX 450 four strokes bikes. . My friend uses Bardhal synth. and his friend Castrrol Synth. . on differents qualifing races, both had rad, puncture and lost their coolant. . My friend could complete his race but his pall did not complete his , the engine seized. . . Castrol. . . not for me. .
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Having recently found out about the effects of freezing temperatures on oil (even new, sealed containers in a garage or shed) my advice is to change the oil every 5,000 miles or each spring, whichever comes sooner.
Cold temperatures act on oil by separating out the additives that ensure friction reduction, adhesion, cleaning of surfaces and anti foaming.
That last is particularly dangerous. Bubbles within the fluid will reduce the content of oil in a given volume, restricting the amount of surface area a pumped amount can cover, leading to excessively thin patches, and even metal against metal contact.
If you have stored oil over winter outside, before using it, pour it into a clean jug, cut open the old container and check the bottom for grey sludge. If there's anything there, and your new oil looks less than crystal clear, that's the molybdenum and detergents etc left behind.
Your "new oil" is already fit only for recycling. It was a shock to me too, I recently had to throw away (recycle) 5 litres of expensive synthetic Castrol, and had to dump the oil from my motorbike after only 18 miles when I realised I'd used duff oil.
A warning sign was when I stopped at a petrol station I looked in the sight glass to check the oil level and saw BUBBLES on the surface. Which means, of course there were bubbles IN the oil too... when it was supposed to be lubricating.
It's a fascinating subject.
Great video, thanks.
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My experience with my Audi A3 8P Sportback 1.9 tdi 105 2009, BLS engine, I used to replace oil Castrol Edge 5W30 LL with filter once a year, every 8.000Km (5.000 miles), at 220.000 km, I had an issue with valve hydraulic lifters and I had to replace them with camshaft, so I got the lesson, in extreme weather conditions like in my country, dust and heat and bad quality fuel, and also my harsh driving style, it has no sense to leave the oil for a whole year, it should be replaced each six months.
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1. thank you for your work and reports.
2. My car is not a BMW. However, I will make some comments that relate to oil changes. My car purchased new as a 2004 model. The warranty was for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever came first! The service recommendations in a manual aren't there to get you through 19 years. You have to make decisions on servicing.
3. My "oil changes" have multiple purposes. The oil change is done on a lift. You may have been told that there is no such thing as a lube job anymore with "modern cars". Wrong. Everywhere there a rubberized type seals. If they are not lubricated and crack, you will have expensive repairs. All kinds of things may have happened. Fasteners fall out. Sure, I keep a box of plastic fasteners for the specific car. However, recently, I had to make metal ones like the old days and the two I made would never have been visible from a home done oil change. The next time, I am going to have the suspension reviewed, the sway bar and whether the bolts on the frame are tightened.
I will have the radiator fluid flushed at the next "oil change". The design of the power steering reservoir does not permit a turkey baster purge so that will be done as well. Also an inspection of the tires.
4. Motor oil doesn't deteriorate from sitting in a container or in a container in a car. It deteriorates from heat, intrusive chemicals/dust. A poorly chosen or designed oil filter that does not remove foreign matter causes undesired engine wear. So, for me, obtaining and providing the best quality oil filter to the mechanic at the time the car goes on the lift is the only way to go. I go with the "factory" oil filter.
5. Frequency of change. In 19 years, the driving conditions have changed radically. No more job commuting. Maybe 2 250 mile round trips a year. No more off road driving with the car on dirt roads. Multiple urban starts and stops of a mile or so. So YOU do the research and learn what happens with the oil when you start the engine. How starting the car from not operating to operating forces oil through the engine. This means you might think that filtering is more critical than whether you use regular oil or synthetic oil.
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I just changed the engine oil and filter in my 2000 Toyota 4RUNNER, at 7,500 miles, I think it was the Mobil 1 10k mile oil that was in there, it was black but not thin, i.e. the viscosity seemed OK. I would have liked to have done it sooner, at say 6k miles, but was unable to do so. This time, I used Mobil 1, 20k mile oil, not because I want to do more miles before the next change, I just want to give it the best chance of longevity. It's presently at 204,000+ miles. I again used a Toyota oil filter, but they are no longer made in the USA, they are now made in Thailand, this doesn't inspire confindence.
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This is not entirely accurate. It depends on several factors. City or highway driving, short or long distance, how long you drive after the engine and oil are at operating temperature, etc.
I had a 5.0 Mustang that I changed oil every 7.5k, because I drove it hard and participated in auto cross driving several times a month. Even at that interval, my oil was still good. But, when I drove the car to work, 75% of the trip is highway mileage. If I did a lot of stop and go, traffic, I'd probably change every 3.5k to 5k. Also, some engines are harder on oil. If your car is turbo charged, I would choose more frequent oil changes.
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