Hearted Youtube comments on The Engineering Mindset (@EngineeringMindset) channel.
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The title is a bit misleading. True, MCBs do not protect people from fatal electric shocks. However, they do protect people from electrical fires due to overloads and, statistically speaking, electrical fires have been a much killer of people than electric shocks (particularly in the USA I should add, partly because of the way they build houses). To say that it is just there to protect property is simply not the case. Also, some MCBs are twin pole, although that's more an industrial and European domestic thing (at least in some countries).
However, excellent job at explaining how MCBs work, and especially the dual-mode switching and why it's done that way.
I note, there is still no mention of RCBOs. Those dual RCD consumer units are, thankfully, rapidly being confined to history and many electricians will no longer quote for split RCD CUs, and I'm a bit surprised that the regulations still allow them. Of course, then we come onto a far more contentious point, which as AFDDs.
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Good video as always, but there's one thing that I think should have probably been changed as it gives a wrong impression of how the car works in general. When talking about the regulator, it was stated that, " the output voltage of the alternator varies with the speed of the car", and "the faster the vehicle travels, the faster the crankshaft rotates." This brushes over the fact that the speed of the car, and the rotation speed of the engine are not directly linked.
A car can be moving at the same speed in 4th or 5th gear, but the difference in gear ratio will mean the RPMs will be drastically different to compensate, which will cause the alternators shaft to rotate faster or slower, changing the output voltage. Changing, " the output voltage of the alternator varies with the speed of the car" to, " the output voltage of the alternator varies with the speed of the engine". Obviously doesn't require explanation of the transmission, but it also does not cause confusion by directly correlating movement speed of the car, and rotation of the engine.
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Yeah, well, whether you get to see it, or even realize it or not, all of these online content creators, (on whatever platform you wanna mention), also have a real life, (including a personal and even a family life), completely outside of and independent of the internet, people, come on! (Basic common sense would make you think that everyone would automatically realize that, but apparently in today's world, that ability has all but disappeared, lol!)
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Theres a third method to detect leaks. That is, that a flowmeter will detect periods when water is not in use. Then the water will be shut off randomly (flowmeter is then used to ensure water is not being shut off while someone is using water so not someone's shower is interrupted). Then a pressure sensor is used to detect if the pressure is decreasing in the now closed water system. Even a small leak will give a great pressure decrease in the closed system as water is not compressible. In a healthy water system, the pressure should be able to be maintained with no water supply.
This is also great as if you have a system which periodically "exercise" the solenoid valve to make sure it doesn't get dirt buildup or gets stuck, you can also during these times, check for leaks.
Such a system can also be used to check for leaks during vacant periods. For example, you might connect a leak detector system to the burgular alarm panel, so when the burgular alarm panel is set to "ARM", it will both exinguish the occupancy signal to both the AC system but also to the leak system. Leak system now responds with closing the water (as no water is needed during vacancy).
During the vacancy period, it can now check the pressure for a long time. When alarm is now set to "DISARM", the water leak system can refuse to turn on the water, and raise a tamper alert, if pressure have dropped too much during the time the water was shut.
So if you want a superior leak detection system, you would have:
1: Flow detection to detect leaks.
2: Flow detection to detect non-usage of water + random shutting and measuring pressure during occupancy.
3: Water shutting during vacancy period combined with long-time pressure detection.
4: Localized moisture sensors to detect water at sensitive places.
If you want a even better leak detection system, install a flow meter at each water consumer (faucet, shower, washing machine, etc) in addition to the "incoming" flow meter and if all "outgoing" flow meters sum up to the "incoming" flow meter, all is fine. If not, then there is a leak.
Ergo:
5: Incoming/outgoing flow detection.
Here, if you have a smart system enough, you could refuse to permit the toilet flow meter and the hand wash basin flow meter, to measure any water if the lights in the bathroom is not turned on, but allow them to flow if they flowed while light was on, but once they stop flowing, no longer allow to start flow again.
In this way, theres a 6th method to detect leaks: If water is flowing in areas that are apparently not in use (based on ceiling light switch position).
Same with washing machine - if its not consuming any electrical power for a period of time, it shouldn't consume any water either.
6: Detect "unauthorized" local water usage based on local flow meters, combined with detecting if lights is on or washing machine is running etc.
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Thanks, Paul, this video was fantastic👍
I'm a mechanical fitter by trade, so I have a good grasp of most mechanical concepts.
I have been into electronics since about age 10, so I also really enjoy the electronics and electrical diagnostics and/or repair work that comes along with some of my jobs, probably more than the mechanical work.
But, even though I am very familiar with relating mechanical concepts to electrical understanding, volume, pressure, current flow, restriction etc....
Seeing this video and having to combine both of these concepts at once...JUST BLEW MY TINY LITTLE MIND😁🤣🇦🇺
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Doesn't the VAV's connect to the main AHU? I mean, you can calculate the most efficient air temperature (supply temperature) and flow rate, based on data from all thermostat's setpoint, all thermostat's current measurement, and the pressure.
Of course, this still means you sometimes have to run the electrical heaters, but its possible to calculate, if its more efficient, to increase the supply air temperature, if for example many zones demand heating, or if its more efficient to run the heaters in the few zones that need the heat.
(And also anticipiate changes - for example, if the pressure is high because of VAVs demanding more heat and are pretty much closed, you don't need to lower the speed of fan, if you know that you will send warmer air and many VAVs will then open more)
Basically, the VAV's should be able to send a signal to the AHU when its either fully open (demand for more cooling), or when its at its maximum allowable close rate (ergo, almost closed but you still need fresh air) - (demand for more heating).
So the ideal thing would be to have a controller, which takes in dry contact signals for each VAV (either fully open or "fully closed") and then, emulates a "big thermostat" to the AHU, demanding cooling or heating, until all VAVs are either satisfyed (no VAV is fully open or closed), or as few as possible VAVs sending demands. (so if you have only VAVs that demand heating, you need to heat up the supply air more, and if you only have VAVs which are fully open and demand more cool, you need to cool the air, and if you have both VAVs demanding cooling, and VAVs demanding heating, you need to cool the air just enough so the VAVs that demand cooling get their things right, but the VAVs that demand more heat, needs to turn on their heaters)
(If you have many VAVs, to avoid a lot of wiring, its best with a loop, with resistor in paralell for each relay, so the total loop resistance tells how many VAVs are requesting, so a zero or very low resistance on the cooling line means all VAVs demand cooling, and a zero or very low resistance on the heating line, means all VAVs demand heating)
But sometimes, it can also be more efficient to heat the temperature of the supply air a bit, if the demand for cooling is only in a few zones, and a lot of zones demand heating, then you can "ignore" those zones demanding cooling, but still give them as much cool as possible, while also satisfying VAVs that want warmer air.
for smaller VAV systems, it would be the best just to connect dry contact relays in parallel, for "maximum open" and "maximum close" - and connect them into the "demand for cooling" and "demand for heating" ports of AHU. But then it need to be configured that if it gets a call for cooling AND heating, cooling needs to take priority. (could be easily solved by having a relay in series with the heating call, that will break the connection there once there exist a call for cooling - unless the controller can be configured to ignore heating calls when there is a cooling call)
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Like many, I want to thank you for producing such high quality content. Your videos are priceless.
Lol here comes my life story... As a 33yo IT office worker, the feeling has always been there to change path into something more up my alley, something practical like a trade. Seriously considering starting an apprenticeship to become an electrician - an always in-demand career, doing something useful and learning valuable life skills.
It's the fear of the unknown holding me back, and losing my relatively well-paid salary, starting on the bottom rung again. There's also some excitement. But it was always the woodwork, electronics type subjects which I enjoyed at school, but ended up going down the university path as I had no idea what to do and followed my parent's well-meaning guidance.
I wish I took the plunge earlier in my twenties when I knew corporate work wasn't for me, Instead I distracted myself with alcohol and going out clubbing. Anyway, it's never too late to course correct and that's what's I'm trying to do.
All the best folks, and please keep this channel going.
Richie
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i found this video as to be as perfect as one can be,,,,,,,,,NOW i understand how the wires are hooked up to the transformer that comes into the house for 120 and 240,,,,,,,,,,that was ALWAYS SO FRUSTRATING not knowing how the transformer was hooked up and the path of the current flow..........NOW I DO,,,,,,,,,,THANKS SO MUCH...........it takes a special kind of person to TEACH OTHERS......YOU ARE THAT KIND OF PERSON.........
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