Hearted Youtube comments on driving 4 answers (@d4a) channel.
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I agree.. but I have to mention, I am one of those people you mentioned who has spent almost 22 years designing a vane powerplant.. There is well over 70 iterations on my design table and shelves. Most of them run, but the one problem that I run into and many others must cross, is the pressure relief on the back sides of each vane. If it is only air behind the vanes, that is okay, and helps keep the vanes outwards in addition to the rotational forces that naturally fling the vanes outwards. But, once you start to collect any liquids, behind the vanes, that is where me and so many others run into crashes, or failure of the machine. We have tried to vent this trapping system to both the intake side to suck any liquids out of on the exhaust side to be pushed out from the linear motion of the vanes telescopic travel in a pumping action... Even tried to just vent these trapping areas to external areas, for collection just to try to get past the issue... I have tried through holes vents long wise in the vanes themselves to allow the trapped liquids to relieve into the front side of the vanes for additional lubrication on the walls, and likewise on the aft side of the vanes in efforts to lubricate the next following vane.... In either of those, we get hovering of the vanes at higher rpms as the edge is trying to either collect/scrape/scoop up the previously laid oil/fuel and grit and results in HP and rpm loss, and after extended periods of endurance runs, hammering effect of the walls, does what we call "catipillar walling" of harmonic wearing in a sign wave and that creates a nasty problem that compounds on itself to destruction very quickly....
These units are so much fun, but I am personally burnt out.. the math mathematics that goes into the volume of the wedges to intake/exhaust to the dimensions of the vanes length, width, height and or length to thickness issue. Based on over 200 material iterations in some base models, and discover some work great some not, but it just keeps the battle of wear factor to life expectancy of the vanes and housing wall(s).. the saving grace is the ease of machining, as compared to the exceptionally tight tolerance of the Wankle housing to rotor dimensions to aid in prevention wedging or crashing.. these vane motors are pretty forgiving in manufacturing... Allot of work, (as you stated) is still needed by somebody who has more money then me.. I am just a guy in a machine shop playing part time on these, in fact, I haven't touched them in about a year or so...
I am not saying anything you said is wrong, but more over, agreeing with you, there is allot of potential for these designs, but somebody who has more money then me can play with more specialized materials / alloys, and simulation software better then mine to hone every bit of active and passive friction out of the entire rotational cycle while incorporating balance as a whole..
Oh, and another crazy issue, leeching, from a combusted chamber, leeching under the wiping edge to the yet not combusted air/fuel ... With a mass damper damage happens in the idea to just carry the rotation on over past the preignition leeched chamber with bent vanes, or snapped axle shaft or ruptured wall.. that is always a fun day and loud too... With out a flywheel aid to dampen things out harmonically, the motors rattle themselves into shavings and scrape themselves to death.
Smaller power tools vane pumps are stable, but the moment they step up to combustion, a whole other character of issues happens... Which is what the one photo of the multi-vane rotor was trying to deal with I think it was a (20 vane rotor) also trying even number of vanes and odd number of vanes all trying to calm down the harmonics or vibrations that rattle these into destruction... I wish more people could put more effort and money into this, venture..
The biggest unit I have that is still working is 5 inches, and offer (0.2 HP) @15,000 rpm .and is on a bicycle and geared super low and allot of backfiring from unspent fuel but does work just not very good but is on the threshold of not ripping itself apart.. Maybe this winter, I can get back on these
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This is pure gold, thanks for taking the trouble to make and upload this. Just one thing I would like to add, regarding fault-finding: very frequently the sensor isn't actually at fault. Instead, it's a connector somewhere between the sensor and the engine management computer. Replacing the sensor will often clear the fault because a new sensor comes with a new connector. Still, I always suggest, before spending time and money replacing a sensor believed at fault, separate connectors, spray with contact cleaner, re-assemble, re-test. I have been repairing electronics systems for 4 decades and have more experience of failed (or intermittent, even worse) connectors than I would wish on anyone!
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Ok so first I want to congratulate you on getting this far, and obviously all of the problems are of clear after the fact, but I'll try to enumerate them as I see them.
1. The coil will make one spark per revolution, you need 6. But actually a constant spark SHOULD be fine. You can get a (more or less) constant spark using the igniter coil for an oil burner. This will destroy the sparkplug over time, but it will give you enough heat to burn whatever is in the cylinder. BE CAREFUL, FURNACE IGNITERS CAN KILL YOU.
2. That flywheel is insanely oversized. It's meant for a 8:1 compression one compression per cycle, your engine is probably around 2:1 compression, 6 compressions per cycle. The rotary drum is probably enough flywheel so you can discard the entire flywheel assembly.
3. Trying to get a newly designed engine started with a pull cord is assuming you're going to hit a hole in one on your first try. You should attach a variable speed electric motor to the apparatus so that you can bring it up to operating speed, THEN play with the carburetor and try to get fire. First try to get non-zero energy output, then try to get enough energy output that you can power off the motor while it continues running. Only after you have all of this working flawlessly do you start thinking about starting without first running it up to optimal rotation speed.
4. Instinctively, I think the optimal speed for this engine is probably somewhere around 3000-5000 RPMs. Technically speaking, you want the highest RPM your hardware can tolerate, but over 5000 I think the premature wear starts to become so rapid that it will compromise your experimentation. You need centrifugal force to hold the veins against the housing, and you need high speed so that the compression action out-runs the leakage. At low speed, the air/fuel will all leak past the veins and your compression ratio will be essentially 0. The furnace igniter will help a lot because it will make a hot enough spark to light fuel even with very little compression, but if there's no compression, even lighting the fuel will not create any propulsive force.
In short, I think you're really close.
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Brilliant video! Spot on!
I’ve been an Automotive Engineer for the past 14years, most of that time being in Brakes Engineering, working for Renault, Ricardo UK, Bosch Engineering and recently I moved to Jaguar Land Rover and I can confirm that ‘bigger’ brakes will only do one think, in the vast majority of cases, they will disturb the brake feel and the modulation as the brakes will tend to lockup faster as you very well stated in this video.
Also if they are aftermarket brakes don’t be surprised if they are ‘noisy’.
Unless you are racing, I wouldn’t even touch the stock brakes.
We spend years getting the system sized correctly and the adequate pedal feel.
More importantly most of the stock brakes are quiet, because of a very good reason we literally spend over two years in Brakes Refinement testing by making sure that the brakes are quiet, many millions of pounds are spent in that respect.
With aftermarket brakes you cannot have the same level of Brakes Refinement as the aftermarket doesn’t have access to the same level of dyno, CAE and vehicle testing as an OEM does.
Most of the braking systems are oversized anyway, as most OEMs design the braking system around the AMS test, which is not even a legislative requirement.
The AMS test is extremely severe (10 consecutive brake stops from 100kph to 0) and it’s not a realistic use case.
Consequently we end up with very big brakes and more importantly very heavy brakes.
Therefore do yourself a favour and unless you are racing and you need the thermal capacity, then do not waste your money on shinny new ‘big’ brakes.
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I've been watching your videos for well over a year now, and this is definitely my favorite one. It covers something that should be so important to all of us! I am 36, have owned over 20 cars, all of them have been used, not all of them ran when I bought them, but I've fixed and driven all but one, to date. I am not a professional mechanic, but I love cars, pretty much everything about them. New cars are becoming increasingly less appealing to me, while the performance and experience of new cars are so much better than it ever has been, I want to be able to fix them when they break down, and it's becoming so hard to do with new cars, in a home garage.
I am basically at a point where I'd like to start swapping electric motors into my 90s cars because I want to help fight climate change, I love the cool parts of newer cars (performance, comfort, safety, efficiency, features), except I abhor late-stage capitalism, planned obsolescence, and massive multinational corporations that are turning the globe into a neo-feudalist hellscape. It's ridiculous that the only type of sustainability that is being regulated is the type that is easily marketable, and not the whole story.
Keep up the good work, I really appreciate videos like this that tear apart the status quo and make us question what the hell society is even doing right now.
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Torque is how hard something is spinning. RPM is how fast something is spinning. Horsepower is just the combination of these two things to get the job done.
Something spinning with a lot of torque but with very low RPM will be very slow but very hard to stop (like a tank cannon). This thing could get the job done but it will take forever, so it has low horsepower. An example would be the motor for an elevator, it's moving a lot of mass but it does it slowly.
Something spinning with a high RPM but with a little torque will be very fast but very easy to stop (like a handheld fan). This thing might not even get the job done because it is so weak and easy to stop, so it has low horsepower. An example would be a desk fan, it's moving mass quickly but it's not a lot of mass, it's just air.
Something spinning with a lot of torque and a high RPM will be very fast and very hard to stop. This thing gets the job done AND does it fast, so it has high horsepower. An example of this would be a sports car engine, it's moving a lot of mass really quickly.
In the context of everyday driving:
Whenever you shift gears you're telling your car how much torque vs RPM you want at the wheels in that moment.
When you're in first gear, you're telling your car "I need you to push harder, not faster." Since it takes a lot of force to push a car from a stationary poisition, you start it off in first gear. When you're on the road and want to go faster, you shift to a higher gear, telling your car "You don't need to push as hard, just push faster". You can see how an engine with a lot of torque is more useful to a semi-truck than an engine with less torque but capable of a higher top speed.
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Dude, you've got some serious balls for putting this out there, and I have to offer you my full support for it.
The vast majority of people would never have admitted that they didn't account for one thing, let alone several. The majority of people wouldn't have swallowed their pride and posted a video of a failure. They wouldn't have spoken about hand-threading a shaft because you forgot to include that in your CAD model. Instead, you put out your idea, how hard it was, that you didn't consider a lot of things, humbly admitted your mistakes and tried it anyway to show all of use the level of effort it takes to come up with something new. Engineering is NOT easy. There are BAD days. There are HARD days. There are days we come home from work and wonder "Why bother?" In a world in which we are all used to having an answer RIGHT NOW, you have showed the internet what it really takes to solve problems and come up with viable solutions, and you wear your heart on your sleeve doing it. We care so much to make things happen, and that is so hard. I absolutely love how you capture this spirit in your videos.
I absolutely love your channel, it's rich knowledge and the fact that you make it personal, too. I sincerely hope you get to see the day when your rotary engine fires, but even if it doesn't, I'll keep watching because you are a man who isn't afraid to show the world how much time, effort, energy, patience and passion is required to make this stuff happen.
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Great vid! I 100% agree that big brakes do not mean better stopping. However, I will say that in my specific case they were better. I recently put a big brake kit on my toyota corrolla. I can say, with testing, they do their job better.
This vehicle is a track car and while the brakes stopped just fine with performance brake pads, it was a squishy pedal and hard to feel lockups. Not because the brakes were too small, but because the calipers had flex. Through extensive tesing and diagnosis, the caliper flex was the issue. Lots of Bleeding the brakes, replacement master cylinder, caliper rebuilding, still did not reduce the feeling. Then I noticed the calipers had just a bit of flex, less than a milimeter, when brakes were applied.
Willwood front 4 piston brakes, BOOM, pedal feels like a normal car. However, they are bigger and now have a differnt piston to master cyl ratio, so I hope I wont be locking up the fronts... Anyways, story over, I'll be testing them at auto X this weekend.
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And it was a flat plane crankshaft V8 too.
The cross plane crankshaft V8 came nearly two decades later.
A Scottish engineer from Glasgow named D. McCall White who emigrated to the USA, where he was engaged on the design of the first Cadillac V8 engine, the Type 51, introduced in 1914. This engine was designed under the leadership of White as Cadillac's chief engineer 1914-1917, later a vice president of Cadillac. McCall White was hired by American, Henry Leland , Cadillac’s engineer, after Leland’s own flat plane crankshaft 60° V8 didn’t suppress the secondary harmonics he hoped for. Leland knew McCall White’s V-engine expertise from his employment as chief engineer at David Napier Ltd in Acton, London and previously Daimler Ltd in Coventry back in England. McCall White solved the balancing forces of second order harmonics of the V8 without resorting to using two pairs of Lanchester balance shafts per bank on flat plane crankshaft but by using a carefully counterweighted cross plane crankshaft, and so the world’s first cross plane crankshaft for a V8 was engineered by a Scottie. Perhaps we should call it the McCall White V8 architecture, and the flat plane crank V8 the Levavasseur V8 architecture.
The McCall White’s Cadillac V8 engine was made of five castings: one crankcase, two cylinder blocks and two cylinder heads. He became chief engineer and later vice-president of the Cadillac company.
Perhaps the next discussion could be the awkward and challenging design of the V6. A young engineering graduate, Francesco De Virgilio, was hired at Lancia in 1939 and put to routine tasks. He soon attracted management’s attention by improving and simplifying the suspension of a Lancia model. De Virgilio spent the summer of 1943 analyzing the vibration of alternative V-angles for a possible V6 engine. He devised flying arms to splay the crank pins apart by 60°, I’ve always called it the
De Virgilio V6 crankshaft arrangement to honour a great engineer.
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Years ago on a forum that I frequented, a member who had some basic knowledge of physics, but no practical knowledge of the workings of internal combustion engines proposed an idea:
A solid tungsten crankshaft...
He couldn't understand that, for one, you need an alloy to be able to withstand the forces on the crank, and two, the amount of power necessary to spin that mass would be astronomical. He also couldn't understand why you want a lightweight crank, thinking more mass meant more power - and while more mass does mean more stored energy, that stored energy wouldn't be useful in a street or race car scenario.
It was a funny thread, it went on for a very long time and became quite a big joke, ultimately with ideas of cranks made from depleted uranium or even dark matter...😂
All that to say, fantastic video! I love how clearly and concisely you explain everything. It's a wonderful, easy to follow format. Thank you!
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One of the many motorsport stories when it comes to cheating, also one of my personal favorite rally cars of all time, the Gt Four is just a AWD toyota madness. Just another awesome video, as always!
If you like the american rancing scene, Nascar and Indy, take a look at the life and history of Smokey Yunick, the greates cheater of all time, that guy was a unit, had a really wild life and was a genius when it comes to mechanics and racing. I didn't like the american styling of racing as much, but after learning about the guy I started to learn more about it and, oh boy, it's really something to check it out.
Ps: Sorry for my english, just a humble brazilian here. hahahaha
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I love you approach and your attitude. I'm 23 years old and already notice how I'm being less "reckless". I'm riding bikes since I was 19, but have done nearly 100k km on a variety of bikes. In the beginning I was surely riding fast, and I still am riding fast, difference is, that I am now in control haha. I would love to ride with you. You seem to be a really great guy. I did a tour with my gf last year where we rode from Germany through Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary and back. Could have visited you then haha.
A few tips that I do have, of which I think they are truly universal, are:
- protect your hearing. Bikes are loud, and wind noise in the helmet is even louder. Get a cheap set of 100 pairs of disposable foam earplugs from the hardware store and always keep some in your jacket.
- target fixation is a thing, basically any rider has experienced it, many have crashed because of it. Mentally go through what to do when you catch yourself fixating on some tree or even the outside white line of the road.
- be sure you know how counter steering works, especially since you only recently started riding bicycles.
Other than that you are doing great and I wish you the best of luck :)
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Iive seen a tonne of car and engine theory vids over the years and dabbled a little bit and you always see examples of tradeoffs in engines, like you want more torque well you trade power etc. But this video really clearly explains how every little thing can affect an engine and its design. Cam timing, cam lift, valve size, valve angle, portsize, port angle. So. Many. Variables!!! But thats why its so awesome to get into cars, you could be like every other guy and drop an LS in a car because its a relatively easy way to get big power for decent money. But you man, you take an economy head and youre going to make it work because youre looking at the design and how the things they did for efficiency can help you make a fun, serious, and probably really unique engine. This is why I love this channel. No sheep doing the same tired old projects. Were breaking new-ish ground!!! So awesome and great job dude so excited for this one!!
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Thank´s for another great video!
I did that "Run Away" thing in my youth. Though, in co-operation with my mother:
She told her stubborn son, wanting to be a seaman: "Ok, You may go, but, you get a education first, you are not going to remain on ships, the rest of your life" and you must be able to have a work then.
I left home, 14 year "old", was sailing when 15, (during summer break), and ended my education as a well educated member of the crew. Sailed around the world 2 times. I had made a promise to myself: I will do this, until I am an officer, and then quit.
Did so, and I am happy, have never regretted a day of my life. And what a life!
It`s better to say sorry, then ask for permission, yes, but sometimes you have to listen, to a good advise.
from a Finn in Diaspora
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@bspencersf Not convinced that's true - i own one, several of my friends do (tech company, not a huge surprise) and most of us bitch about the terrible UI, even several years into ownership. Sure, I've learned where all the options are, but it's still a terrible flow to have to go into the car menu, then the lights menu, then press two buttons when you drive into a fog bank and need to be paying attention but there is no foglight button you can hit by feel. I realise they "fixed" this on the newer models by just deleting the fog lights. The passenger wants into the glove box they reach over to the drivers side, take away the nav system by opening the menu, then press another button. This is a worse flow. Yes, you can learn it. It's still bad. That's before you reach the things that only work on automatic setting but the automatic stuff doesn't really work reliably, like lights and wipers. Sure, they work 90+% of the time, but that's still a lot worse than normal wipers and lights that work 100% of the time.
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I am petrolhead aswell. I have Nissan 200sx S14 which I have rebuilt all by myself. I use it for weekend drives, some slalom and some drifting to have fun and enjoy what an old ICE car could offer. I also have a 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance as a daily. I also don't agree with people, who wants to pick sides. Probably, it is like if You pick a side and You think that you have picked a better side - your opponents in the opposite side are losing something or are just stupid, and that, for some reason, makes a person think that he is better in that way. Well it is what I could agree on. I think You can have both of both worlds. There is no car, that can beat my TM3P for my taste as a daily. I have a solar panels on a roof, each day I have as much energy to drive as I want to. And I stopped counting the money for daily driving. In the end of the month it costs me 10€-20€ to drive as much as I need. For all the trips I take. It is super reliable, it is predictable, it doesn't need effort at all to control it. All the technology that has got into it is amazing. And for the price of it there is no other car that can be just as fast from the start (3.3 secs/100km/h), as comfy and plenty of space and as cheap to drive. There's nothing in the ICE world for it.
But. Yes. It lacks some things that we had before and lost. I used to say, that best cars were made up until 2005 or so. After that computers took over and ruined much fun from the cars. Not all, but generally. And this is why keeping the "analog" which only need + from the battery and some fuel - is still really fun and enjoyable.
Both cars for me are amazing for what they are. They are just made for different purposes. Sure I can turn on Track mode in my Tesla and start drifting. But no, it would not be fun. I have my S14 for that. And yes, I could try daily drive my S14, but ammount of "back pain", sweat and just the effort needed to drive it... Tesla is for that.
-----------------
Also few points about the video. You can control windshield wipers with the button on the left and scroll wheel to change it's speed. That beeping You have heard over and over again - I think that it rental company device on the top? My car haven't made on in two years I have it (not talking about warning signals (those three loud BEEP BEEP BEEP)). Also, the minimalism of it, it is love it or hate it. I like it, it saves not only on cost, but on weight, which makes Tesla more efficient. And lot of things can be changed via voice command instead of trying to search via touch screen. I think I had more points in mind, but these are the ones I remember after one hour after watching. :D
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"permanent marker”
I had to laugh. I don't know if you used a Sharpie, it just reminded me of the running joke I have going with my wife about Sharpie's 'permanence' problem.
I always thought Sharpies were permanent markers. (Maybe BECAUSE Sharpies say permanent on them...)
THEN Sharpie came out with a new 'red lettering on the marker' Industrial marker. THESE markers are 'really' permanent, or so Sharpie says... (Well, they don't say 'really', but it is implied with 'Industrial'.
They were kidding about all the other Sharpies, I guess.
They are better, but they too come off of certain materials, and most mild solvents. Oh, the Industrial label, I found them, for the first time at Home Depot. Not exactly the center for industrial products.
[The joke with my wife? She grew up with parents who called ALL felt pens permanent markers. So, she frequently asks for a 'permanent marker', when we are working on a project. When she does, I dutiful aggravate her with, 'Do you want a REAL permanent marker, or will a fraud do?'
She never laughs... Tough crowd.]
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Nice!
To all the haters, I would not EVER solder under the engine bay. Uninsulated, seamless high quality butt connectors, crimped with good Snap-On or Klein pliers, then covered with Marine grade 3:1 heatshrink made by Temco, is far superior to any solder joint. Crimps do not crack, you don't have to worry about too much solder running down the wire and making it stiff and brittle, and you don't have to worry about "cold solder joints." I have seen plenty of failed solder points in electronis, including consoles and TV's, due to heat. The soft solder alloys used in electronics / wiring are rather weak, because joints are operating at a high temperature relative to their melting point. Depending on the amount of current running through the wire, heat may or may not be an issue.
A proper crimp, forms a cold weld in which when cut through, looks like a solid piece of metal. Moisture can not penetrate, and therefore, corrosion never occurs. Once wrapped in adhesive heatshrink, the truck will rott to the ground before that joint ever fails. Crimping is also the advised option and the standard in Marine application.
Look up ABYC standards. “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints” breaking under fatigue, and removes strain.
Lastly, in a enviroment where there will be large amounts of vibration (engine bay), solder is again, not recommended.
Crimp away driving 4 answers!
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Awesome video, as always, that's why I love your channel and I'm a subscriber. Please, do more videos like this one, as I'm fascinated with both cars and world History. Videos about the history of the pistons, the cranks, the camshaft, differentials (there's a hint of that in this video), seatbelts, and many more topics, would be awesome.
Greetings from Pergamino, Argentina 🇦🇷.
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im going to DO IT!!!! I bought a 95 Bronco with a 5.0 as a project car,,,i was going to pay to have it restored,,i keep watching videos and i have been encouraged by them to do it myself,,,the engine at least,,,i was resently started to doubt when i saw this video,,im going to do it. Thank you brother
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This is brilliant - real world information on modern cars.
I'm a very passionate advocate for reducing our impact on the planet, I even run a voluntary beach cleaning and eco-education group, but I'm still not sure electric cars are the right future, especially with all the technology involved. I personally like a basic car with as few electronics as possible, the proverbial 'less to go wrong' philosophy. For some years we've had some amazing technology on cars, but I don't need auto lights or wipers, it's generally pretty obvious when they should be used. The same goes for the things you've experienced here. I also know when there is another vehicle nearby, I like it when I can easily move my hand to operate a heater control, I like to pull a lever to open a bonnet (or frunk). All this technology is taking driving to a new level. A level where the average driver doesn't have to think or act, relying instead on the tech to do the job. It's just asking for trouble when it fails. I know of somebody who borrowed a car with an old parking brake lever. They parked, exited the car and it rolled away because they were used to their own car having an automatic electric parking brake. Technology makes us lazy and ever more reliant on it. It's amazing but unnecessary. Surely keeping it simple is better for the environment. I'm not saying we should stick to ICE cars, but do we really need all these electronics just to drive a car? Less tech = less resources needed to make it.
Edit. To add. Your closing speech was spot on. I'm guilty with this comment! It's partly because I like simple things. Partly because I don't know what the answer is to reduce human caused environmental impact. And partly because because I don't want to be one of the sheeple and conform.
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Here's an idea for a video topic, should you choose to accept it: The Magic Bullet Engine. What qualities must an alternate geometry ICE (or alternative personal propulsion system of any kind) offer in order to supersede and supplant the conventional piston/crankshaft four stroke model that has dominated since the steam engine? Many alternate designs have been and continue to be proposed and developed. Some have even gained traction, so to speak: Two Stroke, Wankel, Rotary(fixed crank/spinning cylinder), Radial, Axial, Opposed Piston, Sleeve Valve, Turbine. More recently: Liquid Piston, INNengine, Six stroke, and the present topic - Taurozzi Pendulum, among others. Many of these engine concepts have had profitable production runs in niche roles. Others not so much. You've covered many of these individually in detail. None of them begin to rival the success of the classic four stroke gasoline (or diesel) design that is ubiquitous.
Yet that design has so many frustrating characteristics. It is so complex, containing a blizzard of parts trying to compensate for its intrinsic weaknesses. Out of 720 degrees, only 180 or even less than 90 degrees of each piston's cycle deliver any useful torque, the balance of the 720 degrees only consuming precious torque. Balance is a critical pain in the neck. At power stroke BDC, the exhaust valve opens releasing a large pulse of pressure remaining above ambient. Heat, the source of all the work, escapes into the head, cylinder walls, piston, and exhaust, an unused liability that must be discarded.
There seem to be so many Achille's heels, yet no serious challengers have appeared. I'd love to hear your usual exhaustive analysis of why this is, or what a challenger must do to vanquish the champion. The Magic Bullet Engine is a very broad topic. Perhaps it could be bounded and crystallized into a YouTube video length discussion. I'd love to see you do it.
BTW, I'm beginning to think about engines in your accent. Is that weird? It's great for you, but it seems weird for me.
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Another great video from you, thank you. I have watched many of your videos and they are all very well done and informative but this particular show was very interesting for me. You made the point of "Well I'm in here I might as well do this at the same time". What follows is what happens when you take this approach to working on your car. I have also done every single item you did to your car (in the video) except for one, I didn't do (but really wanted to) oil squinters for all the reasons you mentioned. The difference is it is over many years for me. I started building my turbo project in 1979 at 24 years old, I am now on my third major revision of the project at 67 years old.
Unfortunately I didn't have much help and did 99.9 % of the work myself. I first got interested in turbos during 1976 and then built a blow through carburetor system on my almost stock engine in 1979 (except for forged pistons, ported heads, ungraded camshaft and intake manifold). I built it all out of mild steel and gas welded it all. I drove the car in that configuration from 1980 to 1991 and broke almost every part on it. (2 sets of forged pistons, 9 clutches, 2 -4 speed transmissions, one 10 bolt rear end etc.) I did make many mods over those years like three completely different exhaust systems, 2 different cam profiles , 2 - 4 barrel carbs, 2 handmade exhaust manifolds. Nobody's car was as fast as I was back then because no one was turbocharging yet. I ran 13 PSI boost through a 650 cfm Holley carb and had more power than I needed, I surprised a lot of people because you couldn't see it, but you did hear it.
I had to take a break in 1991 to raise a family and the car, a 1975 Pontiac Formula 400 Firebird, that I bought brand new, was stored for 15 years in my garage. In 2005 I decided to start over but this time build it to handle 1000 hp reliably. That required me to do everything on your list plus replace every engine part including replacing the block with a 2000hp capable race block. And on top of all that I also added a complete new rear suspension, (triangulated 4 bar), with a Strange Engineering Ford 9", equipped with 35 spline axles, and a new custom drive shaft. Moving forward in the car a new 5 speed Tremec transmission and a duel disk clutch, then new coil over shocks, new front end control arms, new sway bars front and back, and sub frame connectors and a 6 point roll bar to tie it all together. The interior is completely different as well with a full set of gauges (overkill but fun), etc. etc. etc. Only body is stock. BUT i decided to keep my old truck turbo from 1979 because it was never about making more power, and it had sentimental value.
So now version 3, that darn turbo started running out of boost at 5000 RPM it was chocking down to 10 PSI boost and I wanted 15 PSI, so I bought a new modern turbo capable of 1200 HP. Which required a new intercooler (that I ordered today) along with a new rad because it was overheating in summer. The new turbo means I need to redo the exhaust Manifold again and the downpipe. The new bigger intercooler and radiator also require more work up front.
It is getting harder and harder to do the work now and crawling under the car was not working so I had to install a 2 post lift in my garage. I did document a lot of my build too but not nearly as well as you have done, (plus I would have had to take 8 mm film when I started). Since 2005 I did take a lot of pictures and wrote about it and then started taking video as it became the thing to do. You can certainly look at a lot of pictures on Facebook, "John's 1975 Formula 400 Firebird" is a open to public page I created a long time ago, I guess I have to start recording this version soon.
I look forward to your next video, I am a retired Engineer but I still watch just in case I pick up any new idea or learn a new fact or way to do something. It never ends, the hunt for knowledge.
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Keep this series going! I would love to see top economy engines, top manufacture numbers listings, I don't know know top Motorsports wining engines, maybe a top 8 fuel injection systems, all sorts of potential. I would especially like to see a in depth look at the Toyota 1nz-fe engine, I know it's not loved, but they are everywhere, cheap, go into a ton of vehicles. I am building 2, and would love your help. Your help with my 4ag has been monumental, keep it up. I had to sell my aw11 but am now on the hunt for any gen mr2. AEM, listen up, due to your support of this channel I will be giving you all business I can on my next performance build!
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The 900 SS is a great bike. But definitely one of the least beginner friendly one could imagine. An Hayabusa, while way more intimidating at first sight, is probably easier. The Dominator 250 is one of the best things you could buy as a beginner (or not ) to ramble around. Light, nimble, with enough power to travel safely on roads. Better tyres is a priority buy for your kind of use. Try to repair your TZR, if the crankcase is OK it is easy and cheap. I had a Suzuki RG 125(another two stroke sport bike, perhaps a little older than your Yam) in the past , it was so fun, i regret i had sold it.
The comment you show(23:30) is is both silly and rude. Two stroke 125 was the first bikes of nearly all the riders of my generation. The TZR is in no way a collector (but quite desirable nowadays..) nor a real competition bike. Two strokes don't "kill the planet" but the emissions are noxious in cities. And to recall a"war in your country" to a bosnian is gross to say the least.
I discover your channel via the tech orientated vids, but i like your other contents and to discover Bosnia among other things. The MR2 is really cool, i like the casual way you restored it
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Nothing is black and white. Thank you for articulating that so very well. If fellow car enthusiasts made up the majority of the market, vehicles would be made very different. My personal view to the solution of this problem is doing what YOU can do. For me, if I could afford a brand new vehicle, I would take that budget and get a older vehicle that has a strong cult following that is rust free. When a vehicle has a cult following the top shelf after market parts and services are ten fold better quality than any oem parts. At least here in the US. What’s left of that budget after purchase, would be invested in the vehicle to”save it from its self” . Other than that, if we all make enough noise, someone will see the opportunity, and start manufacturing, simple, reliable vehicles we would buy, even if they were more expensive, we know they will save us money in the long run.
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Your monologue at the end perfectly reflects my (and I hazard to say the majority of professionals in the tech/ mech engineering space) opinion on the topic. A hyper focus on electrifying cars is the result of marketing. Real solutions to our problems are almost always variable and address whole systems. Electric cars are a tiny part of any real solution. They are phenomenal within a narrow use case. Better solutions exist elsewhere, like drastically expanding public transit in and between our fast growing urban centers, addressing/ drastically reducing emissions of grid scale power generation, finding cleaner more efficient ways to maintain intl supply chains/ logistics, improving resource utilization in agriculture, etc etc etc. Real solutions are hard to market. They are complex and often make unsexy compromises. They are also rarely achieveable by induviduals.
This might come off as cynical, but imo the truth is many electro evangelists have been duped. Environmentalism, like almost everything, has been co-opted so it can be used to sell. It has been rebranded as a problem that can be solved by the individual buying a product. Buying into a brand (tesla) is presented as a stand in for environmentalism. So many people have been beguiled by these ploys. That anyone is so blind to miss the irony in solving climate change with consumerism, is itself a tradgedy. By truly educating, and not watering down topics to make edutainment, you are doing more to protect the future of the environment than any of those detractors. Keep it up. You are awesome.
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Thank you for another brilliant, informative and enjoyable video. It's always a pleasure to watch your productions! For the price, this product looks impressive and is very tempting. A used turbo with unknown history could easily be the same price. The comments about manufacturing quality and potential for failure do have merit - but a turbo from any manufacturer could suffer failure because of a manufacturing defect, oil starvation, overheating, or debris entering the system. The warranty would be a crucial thing to consider - because I imagine most aftermarket engine components will only be covered if it can be proven that failure was caused by a manufacturing defect and not by poor setup/maintenance.
This product has me a bit baffled though. You're right - they have to save money somewhere, but after going to those efforts on the turbo itself, giving you incorrect bolts and poor gaskets would set you up for a failure and spoils your experience of the product. Could it be that the turbo is manufactured and checked in one place, then packaged with those bolts and gaskets from elsewhere? It's kind of concerning because, 'as received' the product cannot be used; and does the warranty cover the use of other bolts/gaskets that are necessary? I wonder if maXpeedingrods would offer you the correct bolts/better gaskets?
You have given me a new option to consider though. I'd like to make a turbo build one day and something like this is now a strong consideration over having a used turbo rebuilt. The video from JK Fab is a good addition too, and as you say, beneficial for you to see the balance and quality before you bought it yourself.
Thank you once again for a great video, and for putting up a makeshift video in your road-side garage which may not be that comfortable to do videos in.
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My god that was funny, I needed that right now, the end of your video is how I feel right now, i just spent $1,100 on OEM parts timing chain, gaskets, oil pump and oil pan gasket, 16 lifters and the hours to install them. The knocking got even worse, the bad thing was I could not get the oil pan off to look at the rod bearings. I really do think it's probably rod knock, so I'm going out tomorrow to buy a car for the wife spending $11,000 to $17,000 on a car and park this pig 2001 Dodge Dakota with 200k mileage and figure what I'm going to do, I was thinking of buying a used engine $800 to $1,500 and swapping out the parts witch would put me at $1,800 -$2,500. not sure if that's the right decision the problem with that is I can by a long block for $2,800 and have a 3 year warranty on the engine. Sometimes its best not to be handy, in retrospect I should have parked the truck, bought a another car and pulled the engine I would have saved my self $1,1000 and 15-25 hours. This truck turned into a money pit.
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Absolutely love your videos man!
You have a very thorough approach to demystifying the inherent engineering latent in engine design. Checkout Viking Aircraft Engines website, why so many kitplane builders like me are sold on Honda engines, ie the VTEC, k20, L15b versions, for me, the 195hp Honda Accord turbo. I have rebuilt many engines in a lifetime, diesel included, but I always glean so much stuff from your videos, even as a mechanic, stuff I had no idea about! Thank you for the time you’ve put into these videos!
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Nice haircut! It looks good on you. Congrats to everyone who got some awesome parts from D4A!
Thanks for the shoutout by the way. I can dig it lol.
Texas (and the rest of the Southwest of the US) loves old JDM cars because they are the only spot that doesn't have as bad of a problem with rust from snow and salted roads. Also, sure it's easy to kick yourself for not getting into cars when you were younger, but at least you're not 50+ years old and regretting not doing it when you were younger =P.
The weight savings on that Canadian AE86 are cracking me up. Might want to get someone to weld a plate across there just for safety. Any muffler shop should have someone who can weld and put a few bars across. Then when you save up some money you can either invest in welding supplies, or find someone who can weld in a new floor pan. It's awesome to see a RHD AE86 in North America.
Jimmi in Denmark has a super awesome AE86. Those pictures show one seriously awesome build! Followed him on YouTube.
That drift trike is pretty cool. Following on Instagram now. One of these days I need to build a fun little drift toy that I can't die in lol.
I'd buy a shirt, but I'd be afraid of it getting as dirty as my other T-shirts while I work on the car and get oil, brake fluid, grease, etc. everywhere lol. If you ever release a zip up hoodie, reusable work gloves, or an sew/iron-on patch, I'm totally grabbing one.
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Sintered iron oil pump... I heard the click, a split second before the thrown rod, after 250k miles of FUN. The sudden pull of these engines that occurs at 6,000 rpm, the first time I felt it, was a hoot. Not knowing what the Xrs meant when I bought the O5 corolla in 08, with 10k miles on it from a neighbor who didn't know or care what xrs meant either, for $9k, ended up being the best $9k I ever spent on anything. It had a 6 spd seemed cool, but when you ran it hard, that car MOVED. I'd get out and pretend to jump through the letter O every once in a while Haha!
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I will say that you’ve been the YouTuber I’ve most consistently watched for a few years now, and ive never come across any problems, because whatever you’ve had in hand has always been interesting and useful in one way or another. I really do understand the want for an anything and everything kind of channel, and honestly, seeing a little more humanity in a guy never hurts, in fact I’d argue to say that it helps. I personally am all hands on deck for a secondary channel if you’re up for the task because it’d be beneficial for too many reasons to count. The most important reason I’d say is you and your personal health and drive. We can’t have our favorite videos if the creator isn’t there to create them in the first place. As for memberships, I really respect your opinion on a pay wall, because things like that can ultimately do more harm than good, or not, it’s just how you run them that determines how they go. Obviously there are people who literally cannot afford any sort of membership, which makes it unfair for them. So, maybe, you could have more of a support membership for the people who actually support the content and wish they could do more to contribute. As a reciprocation of their membership, they could have small sneak peaks on projects, or just, access to simple, fun videos that don’t necessarily support much in the way of bigger things? Take a grain of salt on this because, I’m not sure how to run anything. I’m not a politician, nor do I have business experience in anything whatsoever, I’m just a guy with some opinions. Finally, the name… I was thinking “Dirty Hands, Clean Answers” or “Fabbed Answers”, something like that, because answers has to be in the name. It’s just a given, lol.
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Man, I specially loved the content you made which was outside of the ordinary path! The greenwashing video, the one you where out in the woods talking about energy harnessing and efficencys. Keep it up, and I personally think, subchannels are a really good idea because you can, as you said, be more freely in your ideas. Much of your content fuels from your enthusiam of the topic, and if you would loose that, because you feel forced to create something for others to like it, it would be a preety steep downhill. It is as it is with musicians. When they have to start making music only to satisfy others and meeting the others expectation the quality and soul of their music will suffer from it. Take Eric Clapton, what he had to play for publicity, and what he returned playing when getting older, just things he loves, and as one of a cery few musicians, he got better and better and better! Change and experimenting is our duty as evolving humans. Delivering a predictable result is duty of a computer. Keep it up! And do whatever you want, and if you like to share it, i and i think most of your viewers will love to watch it. Theirs to much predictable things and "channeld" opinions and over ecocorrect statements in this world!
Greetings from Austria my friend!
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Bought my first bike and realized it was the wrong bike within 5 months. Boy am I glad I bought it used.
First bike was a DL650, which is like the Camry of bikes. Comfort, power, versatility, it had it all. But it was heavy so I was afraid to push the limits with it, which got in the way of me learning to ride better. Second bike is a wr250x, which feels to me like the Miata of bikes. It's under powered, but the power is up in the high end, so I have to rev it properly to go traffic speeds. I got it purely for training, but the bike gives me good feelings that the big bike never could, just like the Miata.
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This is awesome. I learned a lot.
However, there is one thing in there at the very end that could use its own video and may have been slightly misrepresented. At the end of the video you mentioned spoilers. Well, at 15:48 you showed what is debatably a wing depending on how it is functioning. Then at 16:07 you say, "This is why time attack and other racing cars have giant spoilers," while showing a time attack car with many large spoilers and wings. A video on the difference between wings and spoilers could be great as the subject is greatly misunderstood in automotive communities. Accurate information of what a spoiler is and what wings are can easily be found in aerospace circles, but automotive enthusiasts often misunderstand it, as I once did.
The simplest explanation of the difference is, Wings generate differential pressure called lift, while spoilers impede the generation of these differential pressures therefor reducing(spoiling) the lift garneting properties of a wing.
In the automotive world, most car bodies create positive lift(positive being up) and a wing for a car is inverted such that it's lift is in the negative direction(down) and we call it, down force. It is not always necessary to have a downforce generating wing on a car, and there are real downsides to wings such as induced drag. In these cases, a simple spoiler to reduce the lift generating properties of the body will work just fine.
Things start getting weird when the spoiler turns the over all lifting properties of the body into downforce generating properties.
And ground effect is a whole other subject entirely.
Anyway, thank you for another awesome video on the d4a channel.
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Retired state police officer here. So about 12 years ago, I was on a unit that would work on arresting disgusting pedos that were trying to set up 'hook ups' with 10-14 year old girls. Only the 'girls' they though they were talking to online were actually police. We'd have them show up to a very specific location with very specific, unusual treats (to confirm their intent), then arrest them. One night, a 5'1" 55 year old perv showed up at the parking lot indicated and flashed his lights four times (he though he we signaling the 15 yr old girl in the apartment across the street to come get in his car), and he was driving one of these Volvo 240 brick wagons.
We drove up to arrest him, but he drove over about 12 parking blocks, a large curb and into the street and away we went, on the longest, most insane police chase I'd ever been in. Luckily, it was about 3:45 am so there was no traffic, but we spend over 40 minutes tearing through the neighborhoods, streets, alleyways and lawns of one of Texas' midsized cities. We had about four Tahoes in on the chase, my Chevy Traverse and a black and white Dodge Charger. He lost us. Twice.
But we kept after him and, after he played chicken with one of our investigators in a Ford F150 (and ran him into an oak tree), he finally went up an alley in a neighborhood with bizarre, winding alleys. He ended up running into a dead end and slammed on the brakes, got out and ran. He was easily caught and IIRC, he got about 25 yrs in state prison. But I have to say, I was stunned at the robust, almost bullet proof nature of that Volvo wagon...it was like trying to shoot down a B-17 with a Luger.
The only reason he stopped was because of his unfamiliarity with alleyways at night. It's a pity such a perv had to educate me on the indestructible nature of these cars, but he did and now I know what beasts they are. Thanks for the video!
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Sing it Brother. A few years ago I decided to go back to my first love before I got too old and/or my failing health made it impossible. So after a 30yr hiatus I picked up a 2016 KLX250s, soon after I went to a KLX300 had to have more power to haul my 100kg+ body around with enough power for it to be fun. I'm now on my third bike (KLX400r) and can say my riding skills are now sufficient to be safe and have fun, but I will add that every bike being second hand get a full tear down and rebuild with fresh grease, fluids & any parts that need replacing, & I love doing it. In March will acquire a new Himalayan 452, finally a bike I won't have to rebuild and one I will be able to do long trips on. Keeps the mind interested & the body active. I love exploring the Australian bush, the sights, sounds & the smells makes me young again.
Love you channel, cheers from downunder. 🦘
PS: I ride as much as I can substituting using the Van, fuel economy is 5 times better thus saving money, my Kombi and the environment while having the best time of my retirement.
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Long post incoming:
Let me tell you the story of my bike. I always loved cars and driving. I had a project car (Audi TT mk1). Spent very much time and money it. Loved it. However it was very unreliable due to its age and mods I was putting on it. My heart broke when I sold it. I decided I'd get a brand new chill car (new as in I'm the first owner) and I'd get a simulator rig in order to feed my driving urges. The sim rig did in fact improve my driving skills A LOT and all withing the comfort of my home and without the danger of dying in a firy crash. It was very nice (VR, FF wheel, real car seat, etc), however, just sitting in my home was not the same - no fresh air, no meeting other people, no feeling of actually moving.
And then..... since a couple of my friends got themselves bikes, I decided to try it out for myself. Got myself a Kawasaki Z800 and it changed my life. When going to work trafic is no longer a problem. When I'm bored, I post to riding groups and ride with total randoms and I don't stay at home. Where I come from, parking is practically free and always available. It's not just a thrill for me, it's actually a lot more practical also. My car is now 5 years old and has 30 000km on it, I got my bike 2 years ago (not first owner here) and since then I've ridden it the 24 000km. I've tinkered it, abused it, left it in the rain - it has never complained or refused to serve its purpose. My only gripe with it is that its a street bike, but I still love it.
As you said - the closest to that child adventure you can get is getting a bike. Happy riding!
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Well I can say yes you are 100% correct you need to get out there and adventure. Everyone does. But you make it sound like a dirt bike or dual sport is the only way. Maybe im misunderstanding. But if I may interject, while I love motorcycles and agree, the bike isnt the thing that matters. Its getting outside and touching grass. It's imperative for humans to experience nature. Its proven good for your mental health. It relieves stress and it resets your mood and puts you mind in a better place. Humans weren't meant to stare at 4 walls and screens all day under horrible florescent lights. I hike, backpack, rock climb, ride motorcycles, drive cars, play paintball and airsoft, go to the gun range, kayak, etc. The answer isn't just motorcycles. It's adventure as a whole. It's nature. It's touching grass and getting away from human built structures and stresses. It's getting back to being one with nature and the earth, however you prefer.
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My goodness!!! You sir a brilliant. A breath of fresh air. You see the world as it truly is. This should be shown in schools and colleges. Sadly though, I doubt this would be allowed as it does not serve the interests of the world at large.
Everyone screams about young people being sexually groomed, but they are also being financially groomed ready for being harvested for their money as they get older. I recently discovered that stores are allowing children to have what amounts to a credit card for clothing! How sick is that??
What you said about nature just is, made me think of a quote,
"Nothing is either right or wrong, but thinking makes it so." William Shakespear.
Also, I cannot recall the program I heard the following from, but it really stuck in my mind,
'People will react to globalisation with tribalisation.'
You also touched on emotional reaction. Both the media and government rely heavily on manipulating the emotions of the public. They strive to keep the public in a highly emotive state as it makes people easier to manipulate. A government's worst nightmare, is an educated, calm and rational public that does take an interest in politics. They are VERY difficult to manipulate and so dangerous to those in power, and the various corporations that work hand in hand with the governments.
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Love this car, I always like 80s and 90s cars, and this is one of the best one out there, yeh it might be abit outdated and few things broken or damaged, but that can be fixed, but alot better then todays crap cars with crap technology and tv screens and all the fancy tech which people have in cars to entertain and that because the cars of today are so boring they have put technology to entertain, sad, but real fun is in cars like these, sound, speed, and desighn. Nice review love the car and drive.
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What's sad is that most of the people who talk about zero emissions of EVs won't even watch this video to the very end and still post a comment. Because modern world is just like that. People don't verify information, they hear about something and talk about it like it must be truth, it's not just about ICE vs EV, it's about everything. People prefer to scream and talk shit at each other instead of talking to each other, showing their sources and try to reach some real point in the conversation.
Most of us think that if we're wrong, we're dead, humiliated, hurt and it's end of the world while in fact, if we're wrong but we find the truth, it's a good thing. I like to talk to others and I like when they prove me wrong. Prove. With research made by scientists. Take care people and to every single one of you (us), let's try to be a little less stiff and acknowledge we can all be wrong :D
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Dude..
Thank you for making this video. More to the point, Thank you for the... style??.. method?? ..in which you presented the information. LOTS of info, SHORT time frame, side by side comparison.. PERFECT environment for a brain like mine, I hated school because it was too slow..
Anyways, I am into turning classic cars into modern machines.
..Currently there is a 1960 Ford T-Bird convertible on the table, and a custom made "Full" frame on the table next to it.. This, will replace the sub frame/uni-body stuff from 1960.
Still making decisions around what i want to power it. They say the universe will provides what you need..When you need it...
this video was perfectly timed and answered a BUNCH of the questions that were starting to overwhelm my mind. After this video, I have an general understanding and now I can ask informed questions ensuring that I will be happy with the end result.
Thanks for that, this car will be amazing, EVERY modern convenience, heated and air condition seats..blue teeth and one bad ass engine, 6spd stick(hot rods are supposed to be stick), factory off white with black interior (piano player here) and..
.. a custom made third brake light, framing the license plate that says..
"whose yo ..Daddy" ...when i step on the brake...oh this one is gonna be fun..LMAO
keith
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LOL, "look out for dodgy wiring jobs like this and fix them", by making it only less dodgy? "Tools you'll need" should include A soldering iron and solder. You at least had the heat shrink listed, albeit not the type with a sealer in it. Strip the wire, tin the end, and crimp the wire using a connector with heat shrink built in that has a sealer in it. Not only would that be a better connection, but those connectors tend to be a tiny bit smaller than the PVC covered connectors. And to top it off, I use heat shrink (also with the sealer in it) over that connection when the heat shrink on the connector gets punctured by a crimper designed for insulated connectors (which happens, but infrequently). Also, I recommend using a quality ratcheting crimper. Most ratcheting crimpers have removable jaws for all types of crimp styles.
I like how the video shows no restoration other than replacing one connector, but shows dodgy repair work (yours) and a re-wrap. I saw no multi-meter to verify your or any other connection as sufficient.
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Honda used dual balancers on 1978 CB250 and CB400 twin and continued until the 1985 CB450 twin, they ran at crank speed though
In 1969, BSA/Triumph were building inline 3 with a 120 degree 'twisted' crank so technology has been available a long time and obviously wouldn't cost any more to twist 75 degrees than 90 degrees
More than 20 years ago, I read the article about Phil Irvin's Triumph.
Back then, re-phased Yamaha XS 650's were being built and in vogue.
As the crank is splined in the middle, moving 3 splines gave an 83 degree offset, far cheaper than the custom made main-shaft to get a 270 degree twin and more or less half way between the two. Yamaha actually built XS650 as a 270 twin for racing
How can so many people still get the concept so totally wrong?
There is NOTHING about balance and everything about acceleration as reasoning for it in the original article, exactly as you describe around 17 minutes
Reduction in mass and lighter flywheel, one piston at maximum acceleration while the other at top of stroke. In practice, lighter flywheels give better lap times
The Triumph crank was around 200mm diameter with main flywheel 60mm wide and a bore spacing around 90mm, so, quite heavy.
The reduction in vibration was a secondary factor and not the primary reason for 75 degree crank
The article is available online, I may even have a copy of it somewhere.
BTW, Didn't KTM say they used a narrow angle to make motor shorter to have shorter wheelbase?
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Hahaha wetting myself that was great,,,,,,,,,, but I don't know what goes on in your head lol, another great Vid 🤣
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A great description of this topic, as always 👌
I'm an old mechanic / ex-rally driver who used to play with Datsun 1600/P510 s.
For the rules we had back then, we were restricted to the L18 engine in the 1600 body.
(This block was shared with the L16 engine which used a smaller bore and stroke, but longer rods)
We were also restricted to the original stroke, but nobody ever checked bore size back then 🙂
The original engine was an 85mm bore and a 76mm stroke, but we were able to get the bore out to 88mm, so you had a very different over square engine on the original rod ratio.
Later on, the rules changed to just having a factory derived block and head, the bore and stroke were free.
With a little machine work, it was possible to install the L20B 86mm stroke crank in the L18 engine block.
Then using the much longer L16 rods, fit 86mm SR motor pistons with their modern, high wrist pin design for an under 2.0lt class engine, with a great stroke ratio and square bore, light weight pistons and able to rev out to 7500-8000tpm.
Not bad for an old engine originally designed in the mid 60s.
🙂👌
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D4, you make several cogent points, there are a few I would make; the CYA 'verbiage" you clipped from the public offering through Crowd Funding is prominently displayed in every licensed and legit investment office. Investment always incurs risk- absolutely true. But..... in your flood illustration, you neglect the contract contents and codicils or requirements- if insurance was required of the General Contactor or other parties, then there is "remedy" for the loss up to the value of the insurance policy, barring criminal acts by the policy holder. My last point is more a question, one that your drops on engine balance answered for me; why can I get to much higher RPMs with 6 cylinder than a 4 cyl of the same displacement? The piston, the rod, the crank throws, all will need to be bigger because the imposed local loads are higher and therefore heavier, a good deal heavier which gets multiplied by the total RPM. But that is my experience, we didn't come here to listen to my YT armchair take, I came and many others to here some of the great science you explicate. I feel you are very correct that the reductions in inherent friction is a new place to gain efficiency- almost all previous gains have come from better understanding of the combustion process and improvement there. Mechanical improvement on friction has been in the form of roller lifters, roller rocker arms and such- until recently entirely limited to high performance applications and expenses. And only desperate need to attain more recent efficiencies and emissions made that happen.
Can the scotch yoke become a basis for new gains- yes, it can, but only things like the four cylinder radial type engine offer good and inexpensive ways to get that gain without the stregth and durability problems you mentioned- by pairing opposing cylinders you can easily justify the added materials to make the yoke as strong as the combustion forces from one side at a time are imposed on it. I could have got some of it wrong- I full well expect to hear about it. On Alfadan, there was, before your piece, already some "negative press" on it and they were having trouble interesting the usual financial people to do an IPS- and as you pointed out, they didn't have much to show except diagrams and theories then. Only Mahle's involvement gives much lie to any of that. Btw, look into the Comer diesel engine that was provided for the British Transport Ministry for busses some years back- it was mostly to reduce friction and wear but got there by some similar means to those you lectured on. Similar, not the same. Have a great one and make me wake up and think again tomorrow! I've already thrown my "ole carburetors" out and am embracing the "electronic revolution" because of you!
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Enjoy your videos, but still don't understand the "why" on this one. Why not just get a 20v 4AG that gives you iTB's while retaining the benefits of a closed loop EFI set up? Same looks and sound, but better fuel economy, controlled Air to fuel ratio, etc. I do not believe a carbureted engine, even when adjusted properly, will be any more responsive that a fuel injection setup. There are good reasons that EFI is used on all modern engjnes. You will spend a lot of money on this and still make less power than a silver top or blacktop 20V 4AGE. Blacktop has variable valve timing, higher compression ratio, lighter internals, and is higher revving...generating more power than the set up you are doing with far greater reliability, lower emissions, and no need for routine balancing of carbs.
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I live in Canada and I would like to get Ronal wheels but they don't sell them in North America anymore. You can buy here any other brand and specially Japanese wheels.
I still prefer original brands like "BBS","Ronal" and "American Racing Wheels" (for american cars).
First time I ever saw Toyota MR2 was in Germany at some dealership back in 1985.
I couldn't believe crowd surrounding that car as if they are giving money for free.
I was 20 years old from Zagreb Croatia ,moving to U.S.A. At that time I despised all Japanese cars.I thought how ugly they are and without any character. I honestly thought that those Germans are imbeciles,beside all those BMW's,Audi's,VW's and M.B.'s,they are looking at midget Japanese car! Back then I was drooling at Audi Coupe B2,BMW 323i,M.B.190,VW Sciriocco Mk2 and Golf GTI and Alfa Romeo GTV,Alfasud and Alfasud Sprint.
I'm 54 years old and my favorite car is my Toyota Corolla!
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As I mentioned in another video of yours - I "hate" this channel! Every time I see a video on a given topic, I think to myself, "Yeah, I know this shit very well." And every, fu..ing, time in the end of the video I am like, "Huh?! Where did all this come from?".
That's why I am starting to develop an unhealthy "love-hate" S&M relationship with the channel - it gives me anxiety and pain, but I love it... Damn, I need help apparently!
Anyway, On the topic of the channel, if you make the "vent" one, I at least will feel like in this one you will be acting, i.e. being the person that the audience and YouTube want you to be, and the other one will be the real you. And I am not sure I like that, but you can count on me nonetheless.
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Man, you know what would have made this whole deal easier? A discord server. I mean it doesn't have to be Discord, I personaly fecking hate it, but that seems to be the go to platform nowadays. Easier how? I kept answering your questions in front of the TV like a mad man, but all my words and ideas were just that. I can't reach you, and even this comment will probably just pass by. But if you could have live interactions with your audience? Once a week? Once a month? To vent out and build a tighter connection with us, the viewers? I think that could solve more problems than we initially think? Fits pretty well into your membership scheme too. Let it only be for a part of your audience. I wouldn't be part of it because I'm poor but I'd get it! Also.. when's the last time you've been on a vacation? A real one. A few weeks off the net into the wilderness of the mountains or something like that. Especially now that you got the Honda. I know it's winter now, but hell, man. We notice there are a lot of thoughts boiling in your head. And if you told us "see ya bois in a month, I really need to spend some time away from all this" - no one would blame you. Most would be happy for you. As long as you find your own answers, bro.
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In the beginning, the Internet was an awesome place. You could learn a lot of stuff because it was really only larger institutions that could afford to be connected and host the information. You could easily get into a university's library from across the globe and research things to learn. That was the whole purpose of ARPANet/Internet.
Then average people got into it, exploited it, and screwed it up.
Anyways, don't listen to people that tell you what you should have for a beginner bike. 11 years and almost 200,000km later, my first bike (a Harley 2006 Softail Standard) is still my daily commuter and I love it. For whatever reason, people like to believe there's only one tried and true way to do things for everyone and that isn't the case. Your counter-steering viewpoint is a great example. When you explain it to people and show them videos, not a lot of people get it because logically it's counter-intuitive. Once you do it and experience it you get it, though.
I do have two suggestions for you (you may already know these):
In low speeds, keep your feet planted on your pegs as long as possible. Dropping your feet to the ground while the bike is moving is a great way to get a foot pulled under the bike and have it tip over and break your ankle.
When riding off road, keep the balls of your feet on the pegs so you can squat on the bike (or at least get your butt off the seat). It makes taking bumps a lot less uncomfortable since your legs absorb the shock of the bumps instead of your back.
As long as you're on a bike and enjoying yourself, who cares what others think. :)
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Eastern Europe? I thought your accent was from a couple of Philadelphia neighborhoods I remember! As much as I have come to wait your "regularly scheduled" and scripted "learn-ums", this one about your personal car passion project really brought you into focus as a real , to the bone, "car guy" rather than a mere technician with a great delivery technique. In spite of much trying and gnashing of teeth, your mother failed to keep you from those early experiences getting grease under your fingernails- and the disease progressed from there. Being a fellow sufferer, I feel your pain! You have also left me on the floor, risking injury, behind your occasional non sequiturs. Being from Eastern Europe certainly helps explain the different view points at times!
Stay healthy, do this as your passion tells you- just bring that and the knowledge you use in pursuit of that passion and I, for one, will be here- I haven't fallen out of my chair this week anyway! FR
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This channel is INCREDIBLY good.. worked a lot w/ all kinds of race cars, alcohol funny cars top fuel, sprint cars, tractor pulling, etc.. I'm not saying I'm a master of all these things but what I am saying is I still learn a lot and to have experience in these things, and I can still tell you for whatever it's worth, that this channel is incredibly, INCREDIBLY good, probably one of the best!
Another thing I love is that there is no way you are not getting people for getting people into learning and critical thinking, as well as getting them into stuff like racing, fixing their own cars and so on, awesome, awesome stuff!
🤘🏻
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I'm very happy to say this is the best video about torque vs horsepower I've ever seen. There is so much confusion and misinformation about this topic everywhere: torque is for acceleration, torque is what you feel when you put your foot down, torque is for towing weight.... etc. All derived from a same misunderstanding of the physical principle of mechanical work and it's relation to power, wich can be described as amount of work per unit of time. People mistake maximum horsepower for power throughout the rev range, not understanding that even though a petrol engine might be able to produce a higher maximum power output, at 2000 rpm it will probably be producing a lot less power than a big truck engine. That's what creates the oh so famous phrase "torque is for acceleration", in my opinion. I guess what I would add is that, given a certain maximum horsepower figure, the more torque the engine can produce means more power sooner in the rev range. This has bothered me for so long that for the last year or so I've even been thnking of making a video to talk about. Thankfully, I don't have to anymore lol. I don't know if you have a engineering degree or not, but this certainly gets a full aproval for accuracy of physical fundaments.
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Some thoughts from someone the same age as you, but who thought I was too old to start riding when I did (some 10 odd years ago):
0) If you don't read the rest of this, tank grips are a godsend. Just as you mentioned gripping with your knees gives you a lot of control, tank grips enhance this, e.g. keeping your legs from sliding around so you can transfer more weight to your legs, and/or enable other riding positions / reduce weight on your hands. For that matter, you can sit more upright when riding at low speeds by just using one hand. When you aren't actively using the clutch (constant, lower speed riding where you don't have air pressure to take the weight off your hands), sit upright and twist your torso to give you a bit more reach with the throttle hand. Sometimes, especially on long trips, I use a throttle lock so I can briefly hold constant speed and take both hands off the handlebars to relax them, stretch, get more blood flow to restore feeling, etc.
1) It's very easy to surpass people who started riding younger than yourself - many people give up riding or simply never push them selves or try new things. I know people who've owned ten times the number of bikes I have (which would be good experience trying new things if they weren't basically similar sportbikes), but only ride a tiny fraction of the miles per year that I do, and only short trips.
2) About doing things your own way: I've taken thousand mile road trips on retro bikes. I'm not afraid to be seen piling bags on bags onto a pinnacle-of-performance sport bike - I've taken one camping in the mountains and got some track time in on the way there. Doing things your own way, thinking for yourself, now that's a fine tradition among experienced riders. Groupthink is for Sunday riders, Harley riders at bars, dentists at the BMW owners meetup, middle managers taking their Ducati's to brunch, etc. Do what makes you happy.
3) Intentionally practicing like your parking lot experimentation builds skills much faster than daily riding where you are taking the same route every time, rarely pushing your limits or trying something new. Try new things. Verify tips and techniques suggested by other riders in a safe environment. Different bikes like different things - try different bikes but don't assume they handle the same. I've got a couple vintage bikes that corner best when you are hanging off the bike like a monkey, using the handlebars to put your weight on the inside. Sport bikes don't offer the same handlebar leverage, but have better shape for gripping the tank with your knees, ] and you'll probably find that with their increased leaning ability, they can generate cornering forces beyond what you'd be comfortable hanging way off the seat, and "little" things like keeping your body stable (I like to keep my knees tucked in and squeezing the tank in a rough corner) and keeping your weight from a hair off the seat in a corner (to avoid upsetting the suspension if you catch a bump) have a much bigger effect on handling and safety. And defying conventional wisdom, as I mentioned above, I found taking a sport bike on a long trip was actually more comfortable than my usual "standard". Less fatiguing - maybe better aerodynamics help with that.
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1st street legal bike: 1996 Ducati 900ss ($2500 11k miles) in 2015. Money spent since then <$1000. Miles put on approx. 4.5k. Time fixing/upgrading/maintenance <20hours. I did crash it early on but that was a beneficial experience given it taught me to ride with focus, caution, and humility. I have since owned all kinds of single/twin Japanese bikes of the 70's, 80's, 90's (mostly 4-stroke but some 2-strokes as well), and most recently a track purpose built yet still street legal 2003 Yamaha R1 which I sold as soon as I could (putting less than 400 miles on it) because it doesn't belong on the public road (flashing lights/sirens). In the end the 900ss is what brings me adrenaline, clarity, and as a result peace of mind. I plan to keep it forever. Working on it feels like working on myself, riding it feels like working on myself, and the time which I cannot ride because I am busy with other life things......working on myself. I have ridden it in rain, snow, and hail and never once was I upset because knowing your machine better gives you a chance to better know yourself. That being said we do not choose who or what we love and I wouldn't recommend owning one of them. They are riddled with Italian problems and to covet aesthetics alone is to miss the point. Great video as always!
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So that's why. I've always loved the way you explain things, to me, it's very scientific. Scientific in a way, that as if I am listening to a modern philosopher trying to explain mechanical stuff, and I would say, you have succeeded with your goal.
Who would have thought that I, just an admirer of mechanical stuff, would ever learn things I would have never thought I needed to learn about engines. Before I only knew 'suck, squeeze, bang, and blow', but now I know about engine balances, the degrees in crank pins, and the primary and secondary balances. They've all become fascinating to me because of the way you explained them.
What you did was actually process philosophy in practice. And in that area, you have succeeded.
And I totally understand about the driving with the camera, it really is a bother.
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After several years of dreaming it, I'm about a year into a rebuild, myself. It's discouraging at times, as if it seems it may never really go back together, or blow up when I'm done, "and what's the point of all this struggling," or "maybe I should have just started with a Chevy small block like everyone told me I'd have to do to make real power?" ... Hah!
Locally, a first gen MR2 just came up for sale, and I thought back to that YouTuber, and this video... How in the world has it been 5 years? I've forgotten that it was your video. I'm pleased to revisit your channel in a new way, instead of watching whatever piques my interest at the time. So many curious ideas that I've had, you've covered, including the recent Honda GTP engine videos! The underdog build is something I'm very keen on seeing. Your videos have been an inspiration for a long time coming, and in my life goals to understand engines and different systems. Your videos have been a keystone for my progress into a new career, hobby, and passion. I intended to comment in a brief and concise manner, and overshot a bit. Thank you for your content!
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The idea behind politics forcing electric cars is making difficulties to own a car, socialists wants you to use a car owned by the government or transportation methods of the government.
Electric car is more expensive, can't be easily reparable and as you said, makes more pollution.
The cycle of recycling is: reduce, reuse and recycling, electric cars like Tesla, after some years you can't reuse because you can't change the battery and Tesla decision is backed up by politicians, you can recycle and buy another but is expensive, so their idea is reduce.
I'm electrical engineer, and I tell you these "green energy" techs doesn't are really green, both solar and wind power use more CO2 in manufacturing than energy produced in it's lifetime...the only one clean energy in existence is the nuclear, but as you know: Europe disabled most of power plants during the last decade to use Russian natural gas.
And I don't will even mention hydroelectric, use the power of water but destroy an entire forest ecosystem with the flood definitively isn't a way to reduce CO2.
(Don't tell the Greenpeace but the real cause of global warming is the water vapor. 🤫)
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You are my favourite content creator on YouTube. It is such a great relief to finally start hearing people like you speak openly and honestly about the reality of all this EV hype, and the virtue signalling that seems to have over run the environmental cause. Obviously, things need to change for the betterment of the world we live in. But I'm so sick of people trying to force upon us changes that people perceive as a solution, but will not actually address the problems we have. I drive older vehicles, and have literally been abused by modern car drivers for how I'm destroying the environment by keeping my old vehicles on the road - my old vehicles which have been built once, consumed one lot of resources and energy to be built once, are easily kept on the road with relatively few resources, don't require masses of unrecyclable products for their upkeep, have incorporated effective R&D and high quality materials at the time of construction as there was more budget available to build a good product before 'creature comforts' and flashy tech became more of a selling point than actual reliability, and which haven't yet needed to be recycled (gee, more energy....) and replaced with yet another vehicle. Thank you, for doing your bit to trying to spread knowledge about the reality of the world we live in, and taking the time needed to back it up with fact, maths and science that can not be argued with. Our societies problems are not about the type of cars we drive, but about our values - and how THEY influence the types of cars we drive. Keep it up mate, love your work.
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hi, my name is spanky & you have the best explained and most informative channel on the internet bar none, i truly love what you do, finally someone explains shit in easy to remember layman english, Thank You, i wonder if you could explain automatic gearboxes in particular the GM 4L60, 4L65E, 4L65. I'm fairly sure they are all basically the same box but one has electrical components, i think !, not exactly sure but i'de love to know how to work out ratios & planetary gears and so forth and why they blow 2nd gear, again thanks for what you do your channel is the best one out there. cheers mate.
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I think most of the division isn’t directly about the car and BEV tech in general.
It is because of the politics round it and in many different ways: one, the oldest, is virtue signalling with it. This one is from the days of Prius, where some people (and marketing departments) were getting on with the narrative that you’re somehow a better person if you drive a Prius. It wasn’t a direct message mostly, but some people got annoyed by it. Second is government regulations and what they bring with them that the lawmakers don’t seem to quite comprehend. The bans on selling new ICE, the power grid infrastructure investment (that is allready, or is comming soon on the bills for electricity), the new power production infrastructure, mix with the realistically not-a-direct-replacement tech of the BEV and charging problems and concerns of residual value … etc, all the factors I bet you know, and with the governments in EU and elsewhere tgat are pyshing it as a new exclusive replacement make people dislike these types of cars. I freaking hate the BEVs for that, although at the same time I like them and think they’d be an excellent second household car. Plus - what a freaking great acceleration with electrics!
TLDR: you have to separate the haters of the technology - tribalists, and those that have nothing really much or serious against the BEV tech per se and actually like the BEV cars but feel the regulators and lawmakers are taking a good technology and infrastructure away and replacing it with something that will make more trouble than not on many levels.
Ok that wasn’t a tldr :)
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