Youtube comments of (@torquecars).

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  114. You've done what I would have tried. Here are the usual tricks you can try to get it out: Penetrating Oil: Apply a generous amount of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster or Aero Kroil, to the bolt and surrounding area. Let it soak for at least 24 hours, or longer if possible, to penetrate the rust and corrosion. Heat and Tap: Heat the bolt with a propane torch or MAP gas torch, focusing on the area around the threads where it enters the knuckle. As the bolt heats up, it will expand, and the rust will loosen its grip. While the bolt is hot, tap it gently with a hammer to shock it loose. Also try cooling it with ICE after the heat is applied. The expansion and contraction will help. Impact Wrench: Use an impact wrench to try to loosen the bolt. The impact force can sometimes break the corrosion and free the bolt. However, be careful not to overtighten the impact wrench, as this could damage the bolt or the knuckle. Chisel and Hammer: If the bolt is still stuck, you may need to resort to using a chisel and hammer to break it out. This is a last resort, as it will damage the bolt and may also damage the knuckle. Use a chisel to split the bolt head, then use the hammer to drive the bolt out. Drilling: If all else fails, you may need to drill out the bolt which will probably mean removal of the whole assembly. This is a very time-consuming and difficult process, but it is the only way to remove the bolt if it is completely seized. Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt, and drill slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the knuckle. Here are some additional tips for removing a seized pinch bolt: Make sure you are using the correct socket or wrench for the bolt head. A slightly worn or loose socket can slip and damage the bolt head. Use a breaker bar to get more leverage on the bolt. If you are using a torch, be careful not to overheat the knuckle. Overheating can damage the bearing and seals. If you are drilling out the bolt, use a cutting fluid to prevent the drill bit from overheating.
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  249. I'll do a video on this topic for you as a few have asked similar questions. During regeneration, some car manufacturers use a process called post injection. In this process, extra fuel is injected into the cylinders late in the combustion cycle. This unburned fuel helps raise the exhaust temperature and burn off the soot in the DPF. The problem is, some of this unburned fuel can seep past the piston rings and contaminate the engine oil. This thins the oil, leading to oil dilution. Interestingly some manufactures inject fuel into the exhaust stream which avoids the problem of oil dilution specific to the regeneration. So should you change your oil? It depends very much on the oil quality, how many regenerations you've had and your driving style. Oil analysis is really the only foolproof way to know what your oil is doing, and the report will specifically test for water and fuel contamination in the oil. You can't really tell about oil dilution by looking at it. There are some test strips available which can test for coolant hydrocarbons and even wear metals, NLS products currently offer a range of test strips and you get around 50 to 70 strips depending on what you want to test for. If your oil is looking black and dirty it may well indicate it is time to drain and refill, if you've had a few forced regeneration on the same batch of oil then I'd feel happier recommending an oil change, but for just one or two FORCED regenerations per oil cycle the manufacturers have built this into the recommended oil schedule and oil standards they recommend.
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  557. Hi buddy, it is probably the ECU as you suspect it does seem to be the most common cause of these symptoms: 1. ECU Software Glitch: Many vehicles with a similar VW 1.8 TFSI engine, have Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) addressing these errors. These typically suggest an ECU update to resolve inaccurate or overly sensitive diagnostics for cylinder deactivation and pressure monitoring. Although your specific vehicle lacks a TSB, it's likely the same issue applies. 2. Faulty Cylinder Deactivation System: Cylinder deactivation errors can arise if the system responsible for deactivating and reactivating cylinders malfunctions. This includes solenoids, actuators, or control modules tied to this function. 3. Pressure Sensor Faults or Calibration Issues: High cylinder pressure readings could result from: A faulty cylinder pressure sensor in cylinder 2. Carbon buildup on valves causing combustion irregularities. Issues with the fuel injector for cylinder 2 delivering excessive fuel. 4. Mechanical Problems: While less common, problems like a damaged piston, stuck valve, or restricted exhaust flow in cylinder 2 could elevate cylinder pressure. Suggested Steps: 1. Check for Software Updates: Visit a VW dealership or qualified shop and request verification of the ECU software version. If an update is available, apply it and retest. 2. Inspect Cylinder Deactivation System: Ensure the deactivation solenoids and related actuators are functioning properly. Check wiring and connections for any loose or damaged components. 3. Investigate Cylinder 2: Inspect the pressure sensor and its wiring for faults. Check for carbon buildup on intake valves (a known issue with direct-injection engines like the 1.8 TFSI). Test the fuel injector for cylinder 2 for leaks or over-fueling. 4. Conduct a Compression or Leak-Down Test: Rule out any mechanical issues like a damaged valve, piston, or head gasket. 5. Clear Codes and Monitor: After performing repairs or updates, clear the codes and monitor engine performance with a scan tool. If the issues persist, further diagnostic work may be needed.
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  1182. Hey there, apologies for the delay in my response. I've been quite busy trying to catch up on a shed load of comments! When it comes to a rattle during startup, it's not something you should consider normal. In my case, my car starts up silently. To troubleshoot this issue, you'll want to determine where exactly the rattle is coming from. The primary areas to focus on are the top of the engine, the rear, or somewhere near the bottom. Here are a few potential culprits to consider: Engine Mounts: These can sometimes be the source of a rattle, but it's important to note that this noise won't go away as the engine warms up. Flywheel problems, the dual mass flywheel can start to break down and this will cause a rattle but you'll hear that from the side of the engine. Cam Timing Mechanism: This is a wheel that uses oil pressure to adjust the camshaft position slightly. If it's failing, it can lead to a rattle sound, and it may also affect your car's power delivery. Timing Chain Tensioner: A failing timing chain tensioner can also result in a rattle. This is another component worth checking. Injector Rail Bolts: In some cases, engines have had issues with weak bolts on the injector rail. It's a good idea to inspect and ensure that all these bolts are securely fastened. However, diagnosing the exact issue through messages can be challenging. To get a more accurate assessment, it's advisable to have a professional take a look at your engine in person. They can pinpoint the problem and recommend the necessary repairs.
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  1212. For reference I know the Audi/VW DSG boxes are usually more economical than the manual version with the same engine, when they have an extra gear and dual clutch operation it makes sense. They are not alone, in my research I pulled up the following that also follow this trend. MPG quoted below are the US version, UK MPG figures are generally higher all round, because we have a smaller country and have to make distance and fuel look better. LOL Honda Civic (1.5L Turbocharged Engine) The Honda Civic equipped with a CVT achieves better fuel economy than its manual version. For example, the CVT might deliver around 36 MPG combined, while the manual version typically falls a few MPG short, especially in city driving. Toyota Corolla (2.0L Dynamic Force Engine) The automatic version with a CVT, featuring Toyota's advanced gearless design, often exceeds manual versions in efficiency. It’s common to see the automatic model reaching 40 MPG highway, while the manual stays closer to the mid-30s. Mazda3 (2.5L SkyActiv Engine) Mazda’s automatic models equipped with SkyActiv technology are tuned for peak efficiency. The automatic version can hit approximately 31 MPG combined, whereas the manual version may achieve around 29 MPG combined, depending on the configuration. Hyundai Elantra (2.0L and Hybrid Models) The standard automatic Elantra with the Smartstream CVT often boasts higher fuel efficiency compared to its manual counterpart. For instance, automatics can achieve 35-37 MPG combined, while manuals might hover slightly lower. The hybrid automatic models perform exceptionally, offering up to 50 MPG combined. Ford Fiesta (1.0L EcoBoost Engine) While the manual transmission is engaging, the automatic version equipped with Ford’s dual-clutch system can surpass it slightly in fuel efficiency. Automatics may achieve around 37 MPG combined, with the manual trailing by 1-2 MPG. Volkswagen Golf (1.5L TSI Engine) Volkswagen’s DSG automatic transmission often outperforms the manual in efficiency. A Golf with the DSG automatic might reach 40 MPG highway, while the manual version remains a few MPG behind.
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  1414. Always interested to hear others experiences, especially if it's different to my own. I however generally agree with you though on most of your excellent points raised. On a car like mine with cylinder on demand (COD), the 2 cylinders will only shut down at 1500rpm - 2000rpm so using a lower gear and higher RPM will get this to kick in, so 30mph in 3rd or 4th is generally more economical than in 5th or 6th where the RPM drops below this threshold. Underinflated tyres will cost you some MPG, that is something I (and many others) have tried over and over and have lost as much as 5mpg where this was the only factor involved over a few full to empty checks. The key is to use the correct pressures and I find that on motorways using the fully loaded pressure recommendation benefits MPG. Substantial over inflation or going beyond the manufacturers recommendations is not something I recommend doing and have like yourself seen little benefit in fuel economy. There are always going to be exceptions, but unless we do some tests and compare we will be working from incomplete data. How does an overinflated tyre causes more heat than an underinflated tyre as surely there is less sidewall flexing compared to an underinflated tyre? Over inflation does reduce rolling resistance (smaller contact patch) so physics dictates that fuel economy will be improved, but at the loss of grip and handling I don't recommend this. I have run Michelin Energy on two of my cars over the years, and comparing the MPG annually shows the car is better on these than the previous Eagle F1s. I do log my MPG very carefully, and over a year it allows you to rule out extremes and as my car usage includes a regular commute and very little else it all averages out. Eco Tyres DO work and there is plenty of evidence around!. If not the advertising standards authority would prevent these false claims being made by those making them and selling them. All new Tyres also come with a LAB tested eco rating, showing the differences between tyres on fuel economy - Europe, UK and US all use some kind of Lab test for these ratings. If you want to disagree with these tests and ratings that is absolutely fine by me. In fact a few searches for economical tyre study brings up more than enough research to support the assertion that eco tyres do work as advertised. If people would like to see videos with spreadsheets, and test runs, and more data I'd be happy to put something together - personally I find these quite boring!
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  1972. Welcome to the annoying world of car diagnostics. Here are some tips, some really obvious which sometimes get overlooked. Turn the ignition key to the "On" position without starting the engine. Use the scanner to read the O2 sensor data. Look for any trouble codes related to the O2 sensor. These may include P0130, P0131, P0132, etc. You say there are no codes showing but this doesn't mean the O2 is ok, just that to the ECU it is giving readings that seem roughly ok. Examine the sensor data for fluctuations. A properly functioning O2 sensor should oscillate between rich (high voltage) and lean (low voltage) conditions. To Test the O2 Sensor (if needed): If you want to further confirm its condition, you can perform a voltage test using a multimeter. This requires back-probing the sensor's signal wire while the engine is running. Generally speaking a healthy sensor should produce voltage readings between 0.1V (lean) and 0.9V (rich) while the engine is warm and running. Check specifics for your cars engine model though. Other weird stuff to consider as possible causes... Carbon build up around the head and valves can cause rough running, the carbon tends to be much worse on 2 cylinders and this creates an imbalance in the airflow. Faulty coils/coilpacks, sometimes they just produce a really weak spark rather than an error code creating failed spark. Sometimes a couple of issues randomly coincide to cause a misfire, is it a regular misbeat, or really intermittent? Does is only happen on cold or warm engines?
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  1990. Toluene is much better than acetone - back in the day we used to drop nail varnish remover (acetone) into the fuel to boost octane! Over my 30 years in the industry and general driving I've tried a fair few additives. I think octane boosters are the most reliable of them all and can be fairly easily measured and tested, but many of these come with a carrier and small part of active ingredient and work out more expensive than buying high octane fuel. I wouldn't like to try these with a particulate filter or catalyst though nowadays. I've used the PTFE type of oil treatment which claimed to BOND to the metal and form a super slippery hard coating (a strip down did reveal a black shiny residue on the cylinder walls but it cost me oil pressure and threw a rod on that engine), even a "nitro boost" spray which claimed to increase horsepower, which all it did was create soot on my spark plugs and a misfire (old carb fed GM 1.6 unit). I had some wins with stop leak power steering fluid which did work but I've since learnt that generally they cause the seals to swell and this leads to further deterioration down the line. Thankfully advertising claims need to be backed up now which makes it harder to pass of the junk products, so it is fairly easy to spot the vague statements used to sell them like "should offer more power" "aims to improve combustion" "could improve performance and economy" statements used to sell them. Overall I've seen little gains or benefits for the cost, and tend to stick to just a few brands now that I really trust, such as BG.
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  2303. This is an interesting question and I will do a whole video on this topic as it affects so many modern engines. Get an engine compression test done: This test checks the engine's ability to compress air and can help to identify problems such as worn piston rings and if this is limited to one cylinder or is a wider problem. A camera can also be useful to inspect for wear and tear inside the engine and head and identify any possible ares for leaks. Common Causes of Oil Burning in Cars Worn piston rings: Over time, the piston rings that seal the combustion chamber can become worn, allowing oil to leak into the engine and be burned. The top piston ring with the wavy edge is called an oil control ring. It's a crucial component in the engine's oil control system, responsible for controlling the flow of oil into the combustion chamber and preventing oil from being burned. The wavy edge of the oil control ring helps to scrape excess oil from the cylinder walls and return it back to the engine's oil pan. This helps to reduce oil consumption, improve engine efficiency and performance, and prevent harmful oil from entering the engine's combustion chamber. Damaged valve seals: Valve seals that prevent oil from leaking past the valves can become worn or damaged, causing oil to seep into the engine. High mileage engines: High mileage engines are more likely to burn oil due to increased wear and tear on engine components. Failing turbocharger: A failing turbocharger can cause oil to leak into the engine and be burned, as well as increase engine heat and oil breakdown. Additionally, a failing turbocharger can also cause excessive engine heat, which can lead to oil breakdown and increased oil consumption. If a car is burning oil and has a turbocharger, it's important to have the turbocharger inspected by a mechanic to determine if it's the cause of the oil consumption.
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