Comments by "Psiberzerker" (@Psiberzerker) on "Russian 1895 Nagant Revolver" video.

  1. I'm less interested in "Silencing" a revolver than putting a fore-grip on a revolver carbine. The cylinder gap generally means burning your forearm, or at least your sleeve if you try to do that with a regular (Long barrel stocked) revolver.
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  2. Usually, the subject of "Silencing" a revolver comes up, when someone says it can't be done. I kind-of agree that it's not Practical, with the caveat that I have done it (With a tube all the way around the cylinder) only to discover the unforseen variable: Back-pressure, a silencer is a Muffler. So, just like an automotive muffler, it retards gasses escaping until they're subsonic, but some of that is blown back into the barrel. This actually increases the Rate of Fire/cycle time on automatics, and may require a different mainspring on some models, so the over-pressure doesn't wear out the gun. However, it's always a good idea to clean out any muffler, and the gun itself, because that back-pressure also leads to fowling. In the revolver I built (On a Smith and Wesson Model 3 type Top-break, but in .38 Special instead of 38S&W, or .45 Shoefield) it pushed the cases in the charge-holes back just enough to lock up the cylinder, so you had to shake it out before cocking it. I respectfully suggest Single Action only if you're even going to attempt it, and a strong enough hammer spring to hold the case against back-pressure, without piercing the primer. (Then, it vents into the back-plate instead.)
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