Comments by "flagmichael" (@flagmichael) on "TOYOTA OWNERS! Never Replace Your Leaky Axle | Fix Them Instead!" video.

  1. Amen! The last intense job I did on our cars was replacement of a clutch in my son's Acura Integra. I actually pulled a muscle in my face trying to get the clutch to line up. It made rebuilding the hybrid battery on the 2002 Prius seem easy by comparison. I have to rely on others for the brute force work now that I am in my 70s.
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  2. "Couldn't hoit" reminds me my brother calls moly grease "molybolium" grease. A light heart makes working on troublemakers like cars easier. Now, just try to get "molybolium" out of your mind! Mine is still stuck there.
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  3. That makes even more sense than the pressure view of it. Both point to moly grease for the outer joint.
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  4. It took me over 60 years to learn the truth of what you recommended: replace the boot (or whatever you are dealing with) at the first sign of failure. What it took me so long to understand is this: we get the most value out of a repair when the repair is oldest when we sell or scrap the vehicle. In this case, at 200K miles it will need that axle replaced just this once. Why let it go any longer if you are going to have to do it just once? As soon as the problem is seen, schedule it for the earliest affordable time.
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  5. Our Prius is the same way... the bumper never quite clears parking blocks. I should look into renting a plastic welder, which is the proper repair. It requires painting to make it look right though. I haven't had any success with duct tape - not strong enough or enough grip. There are several good YT videos showing how,.
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  6. You also had the sense to know when to cut your losses... a critical bit of sense I don't often have!
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  7. I had no idea the clamps came in such precise sizes... 0.2mm between those two similar clamps. It makes sense, though.
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  8.  @jeffreymcdonald8267  But wait - there's more! CV (Constant Velocity) joints are used on steered axles because they, well, maintain constant rotational velocity throughout the rotation when the wheels are steered. U-joints "whip" through the rotation when the axle is not in line. For old school drive shafts that was pretty minor but when the angle gets above 20 degrees or so it creates a lot of vibration. The inner ones don't have much of that to deal with - mostly small vertical angles - but the outer ones make contact within a spherical shell midway in the angle between the axle and the wheel.
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