Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Botched Install Blew The Amplifier! Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi" video.

Just a small soldering iron, after all it really is only around 30W, while for wire that thick you probably will want to use a gas torch instead, simply for the massive power input that solders it in seconds.
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Yes easiest first fix is put insulation inside the boxes, does not need much, just a light fill of spun polyester sound proofing, and some tar roof shingles stapled to the back of the box to damp it. then you can do the car.
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Either needs to add spacers, or mount those speakers under the box top, which means stripping the top cover (likely held on anyway with either pins and hot melt, or screws) and screwing them in from behind with a foam gasket. Probably double the volume that way, and get rid of the buzz.
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Fuse would be a good thing, 60A will do for this, as that power output is not exactly a full time rating, which is probably what actually killed the previous amplifier, high power constantly, and nicely swaddled in carpet and foam, cooking it to death.
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The odd values are because resistance measuring sends a small constant current through, and measures the voltage drop. Power being on means the amplifier itself is providing a voltage, much more capable than the current source in the meter, and what you measure is the voltage there, averaged by the meter internally to make a stable reading, as it otherwise will vary slightly as the probes contact varies.
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Inner side of those pass through actually needs to be soldered, or you really need to have used ring terminals there, as that thin piece of garbage plate is actually the highest resistance of the entire setup. Those little bits of metal will rob you of around 10% of the power output, and will run really hot. Power wise at least they used real copper cable, not the more common and cheap CCA wire. Easier for the power wires to get bootlace ferrules, but as you rarely do audio expensive for the tooling, unless you use it for battery terminal crimps as well, which also benefit from the same crimping. Alternative is some copper AC line, which you cut a small length to fit, and solder on using something with a little more power, like a propane or MAPP gas torch. Been doing that for a long time, that heavy cable sucks the heat away, especially if you use 0 gauge wire, like I did to make decent jumper cables. 5m of PTFE insulated cable per side means the majority of loss is the clamps on each side. Alternative source for the sleeves is to buy inverter welder plugs, and use the thin copper sleeve they come with. Battery side would have replaced that connector with a new one, one that actually has copper in decent thickness, unlike the cheap one made with a thin copper alloy, that probably has 0.5V drop at full power across it. Amplifier itself needs to have a proper mounting, not hidden under the seat and not allowed to cool by be buried under carpet, which will make it run really toasty. Mounting behind seat, with the correct hardware ( no drywall, proper rivnuts through the steel) to hold it both vertical and able to have airflow, and with the carpet under it cut away to provide metal to metal contact to get some of the heat out, and it will last a long time. Old one was cooked to death there under the seat and carpet.
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