Hearted Youtube comments on Project Farm (@ProjectFarm) channel.
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Spot on! I'm a mobile technician in the South and I drive a lot, so I've real-world tested just about every hydrophobic product out there. My personal regimen is Aquapel every 6 months, and keep a bottle of RainX in the back seat.
The only issue I have with Aquapel is that if you use your windshield wipers (bugs, excessively heavy rain that overwhelms the product), it actually scratches the Aquapel layer, installing fine linear scratches in the path of the wiper blades over time, which can lead to borderline crippling hazing and glare in some rain conditions. Because Aquapel is a silica-based product that chemically crosslinks to the glass, it has to be mechanically removed before recoating. Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and a DA polisher works well for me.
In contrast, RainX is a silicone solution emulsified into a wax with an alcohol-based emulsifier. It simply sits on the surface of the glass, and is highly susceptible to heat and mechanical removal (windshield wipers). But it's also dirt cheap and available almost anywhere in North America, and very easy to apply.
Sorry for the text wall! I wanted to add some real-world insight that doesn't translate well into laboratory testing. :)
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Let's just take a little time here to appreciate how nuch work goes into these videos:
โขBuying the products (I calulated $896, likely before taxes and shipping)
โขBuying anything else needed for the test
(Distilled water here, maybe a meter, those blade sharpness testers [although he probably has a stock of them on hand], fuel for saws and such)
โขCreating a test rig if needed,
โขactually performing the tests,
โข(for oils) Sending the samples to a test lab and paying for that likely,
โขFilming the Intro, Outro, Unboxing and Tests,
โขRecording VO (Voiceover),
โขCreating the graphs,
โขEditing the video
โขCreating the final spreadsheet with the highlights...
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I've an idea that I haven't seen before (or at least found): Hand Cleaners
I work on motorcycles and constantly get mucky hands due to the Carbon, Rust and Associated Particles. I tend to use Swarfega but don't care what flavour, my firend uses swarfega but ONLY the orange one ("Because it's got citrus in it, which is, like, an acid isn't it!"), I know some people just use Fairy Liquid (dish washing liquid in the UK) and my dad is more old school and uses normal soap, then vinegar if that doesn't do it, then 99.9% Isopropyl as a last resort.
I'm sure no matter what tools or projects people do then wanting shiny clean hands without taking a layer off is something we can all relate to :D
P.S. Best trick I've ever actually seen played on a newbie mechanic - tell them they can avoid all the mess if they spray some lube (WD40, GT85, etc.) on their hands first. "Really coat it on there good as a barrier." It's mean, but watching them play grab-the-spanner is hillarious. Even worse, they then have to try and wash off the WD40...
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Just an observation: In our shop, I have no doubt that we have gone through dozens (literally dozens) of locking pliers on our welding and radiator repair benches. In both applications there seems to be a trend: Vise-Grip pliers manufactured back in the day, in the USA, by Peterson Manufacturing Co. are, by far, the oldest survivors of a tough life. There are also a few other vintage locking pliers from Craftsman, Malco, Snap-On, Millers Falls, and Klein left in serviceable condition but, by far, the best are the old USA-made Vise-Grips. It's also notable that when you do a close comparison of these old warriors, aside from the trademarks, they are all pretty much identical. Wonder if there might have been some ghost-manufacturing going on(?) We also have some new Vise-Grips (Irwin), some Kobalt, Craftsman, and others. These are all transients... just passing through my shop on their way to the scrap yard. These are the ones we chose when the TIG welder or plasma torch are going to be danger-close. They'll be long gone when the 50 year old Vise-Grips (and the others made in the same factory back in the day) are still doing what they do...
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I use both processes. For small parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that can fit in my Horrible Freight ultrasonic cleaner, I use Evapo-Rust. I first clean the part in the ultrasonic cleaner to remove any dirt, grease, etc. that might contaminate or inhibit the Evapo-Rust. I then drain the ultrasonic cleaner and fill it with Evapo-Rust. I use both heat and ultrasonic agitation. It works great for getting into fine threads, crevices, etc. in the small parts. Much better than just letting it passively soak in Evapo-Rust. For larger parts I use electrolysis. Note that it's important to only use plain steel in the electrolysis process--both for the part being derusted as well as the sacrificial part. Stainless steel, galvanized steel, and other plated steels can make a toxic soup. Plain steel only leaves iron oxide behind so it's safe to dump it in your yard or down the drain. I reuse it over and over until it's just nasty looking and then dump it. Even when it's so brown you can't see anything in it, it's still effective for electrolysis. Another great video. Thank you and happy new year.
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I tested all varities of motor oils for GM when I was with Chevrolet Motor Division, The timing of this coincided with the Arco Graphite oil coming onto the scene. Being a member of the SAE I contacted the API and asked a few questions. As they could not comment on a particular brand ther scientist I spoke with gave me some pretty good info. First of all, graphite can't just be added to engine oil, it does not go into solution, but can be forced into suspension by companies such as North American Colloidal. So there is that. And graphite can centrifuge out of suspension in high speed situations, especially where there is a reduction on the diameter of the carrier, where the expansion of the carrier can cause the graphite to precipitate out. Kind of why a certain synthetic engine oil had to remove it's product from piston aviation engines which used leaded fuel. The spaces between the molecules of the oil molecules was too small to scavenge the lead that made its way into the crankcase, which could then centrifuge out and block crankshaft oiling holes and prop governors. And there is more, but what's the point? All of this stuff was know to the industry 40 years ago. I may be new to your followers, and to you, but the testing for all of this was done in actual laboratory conditions by scientists.
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Project Farm has become the benchmark, for which all the other tool reviewer videos are judged. Nobody does it as well. A few come close. But the majority fall far short. You've mastered the art of this media platform. ๐
In regard to the vices, I spun the cylinder, and pulled the trigger on Horror Freight's Central Forge, in 2019, when they still had the 20% off coupons. Cost me less than $50. All I can say is I'm glad I did.
Timex would be proud to put their name on this vice. It has taken a thrashing so severely in the last 2 1/2 years, that i've now repainted it twice. It's currently British racing green. If you get this vice, you probably won't be disappointed.
One plus for this vice is that the jaws are secured by recessed, hex head (Allen) screws. The negative is that HF doesn't sell replacement jaws, nor do they sell an optional smooth faced set, for "mar free" clamping. I often use it for wood working, and the factory jaws do a number on anything soft they clamp down on. So I went to Wally World and bought one of those 1/2" thick, white, nylon/plastic cutting boards, and made multiple sets of "soft jaws" out of it, for the vice. The board thickness was perfect for this. No more diamond patterns embossed into my work pieces. ๐
Also, if mounting this vice onto a plywood work bench top (especially any top less than 3/4" thickness), I highly recommend using a section of plate steel under it, due to it only being a "3 hole" design. Once torqued down, it is rock solid.
Vice Mounting 101 - "Pro Tip" for first time vice owners. When mounting, (ie..BEFORE you drill the holes in your bench top, and plate!), make sure that the inner face of the REAR jaw on your vice, is at least 1", to 1.5" FORWARD of (ie..clears it, by), the edge of your work bench!
If it does not, then you will NEVER be able to secure any work piece south of the jaws, longer than 6.5", or so.
Don't ask me how I know this. ๐
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We viewers appreciate the thank you but youโre the one who deserves thanks. I recommend your videos to anyone who buys tools, not just because you deserve the subs, but also because I know that anyone who watches these videos will instantly become a far more informed consumer. The importance of having informed consumers canโt be overstated, especially in a country like ours that is built upon capitalism. If the consumer isnโt informed, companies have no monetary incentive to improve their products. The more informed the consumer is, the better products we will get. Better products means less time and money wasted in our jobs and hobbies, which I appreciate to no end. Before project farm, tools would break on me, or they wouldnโt perform well, even if I bought the most expensive one. Now that Iโve found this channel, everything Iโve bought from Toddโs testing has lasted, done the job effectively, and many times, those products arenโt the most expensive ones in the showdown. My tools last longer, work better, and are often cheaper, itโs not hard to imagine how much money that saves altogether. For myself and plenty of others working in the trades, your videos make our lives easier, and give us more money to take home to our families at the end of the day which is something that I canโt begin to thank you enough for.
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For enthusiasts: the biggest problem you will encounter is that expanding propane cools the lines and eventually freezes, you need some heating or heated expansion chamber. There are cheap water-heated LPG expanders on the market which have a diaphragm taking underpressure from the inlet manifold and that allows operation of the throttle (gas pedal). Propane is unforgiving about state of the engine - MUST have good compression, valves not leaking and timing very precise. It behaves like high octane fuel so advance your timing; it loves high compression engines. Super clean to burn, no particulate matter, less than 10% of CO emissions (=good for powering forklifts indoors, e.g.), 50% of HC emissions, same NOx. No carbon deposits, used motor oil looks like new (not black). Has slightly less energy density that petrol/gasoline; engines with anti-knock sensor compensate for that by advancing the timing. Use standard spark plugs or silver tipped ones (not copper-alloy; test it yourself). Check your valve lash more frequently, initially. That's it, folks! Your engine will run smoother, quieter, longer and cheaper).
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Glad to see you try this one! I have a quick anecdote about Coleman Fuel/White Gas in a larger scale motor. I was out camping with the scouts about 20-25 years ago, and we were on our way back home in my dad's trusty '87 E150 van with a stock carburated 302. The van started running really rough, and eventually died. My dad correctly determined that the motor wasn't getting gas (he initially thought the fuel pump or pickup had died in the front tank). We removed the engine cover from inside the cabin, exposing the back half of the engine. He took off the Air Filter, and had me dribble white gas down the carb throat while cranking the engine, and we were able to limp the van down the road a few miles to a gas station. The rest of the kids in the back thought we were some kind of mad scientists/geniuses for being able to do that, which was kind of cool. The motor definitely didn't like it (or maybe it didn't like that we were pouring a thin stream of liquid gas down the throat!) because it pinged like mad the whole way. My dad later confessed that he was worried about it coming apart, and then having a MUCH bigger issue on the side of the road with 5 scouts in the back. After getting everyone home safe & sound, It turned out that the fuel tank selector switch had gone bad, so when you changed to the front tank, it didn't let any gas at all get to the engine.
Keep up the great videos!
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Wow, Man- what a technical and detailed review!
Changes in technology-
30 years ago I had a Rayovac Black Cat flashlight, 4 D cell, incandescent bulb + 1 in the base.
It weighed a few pounds because of batteries, flimsy case, not very bright, lasted maybe an hour.
Now- I have a Coleman camp flashlight, aircraft aluminum, 3 AAA NiMH, 1 SMD LED.
Super bright, white light- lasts for hours. Waterproof, very rugged.
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I currently use a Stihl MS 290 and an Echo CS 590. They are very close in specs. Over my nearly 78 years I've used a lot of saws including other Stihls and Echos. My experience has been that Stihls are very well made (maybe less true now of the base consumer models), but so are the Echos. My Echo starts much more easily than my Stihl, cuts faster and seems to have more power--but it's also newer, and that may explain a lot. My son has one of my old Echos that must be almost 40 years old now. It still runs. He has an old Stihl of mine too, maybe 30 years old, and it runs fine. I think the takeaway is that any of the high-end saws--Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, Dolmar, etc. are worth the money--they last, they have high resale value if you don't want to keep it, and they are much easier to live with. Which is best? I really think it's just a matter of personal preference and how you prioritize the fine differences in details.
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I probably started my last comment with this same sentence: 'I can't say enough how helpful these videos are.' They also show that across-the-board brand loyalty is a potential pitfall; X brand might make the best ( a,b,c) tools and Y brand make the worst (a,b,c), but the Y brand of (d,e,f) tools can outperform brand X's (d,e,f) tools by a mile. This fact speaks to the need to explore various options in a scientific and unbiased format in order to pick the best tool for the job whether your eye is toward overall value, maximum performance, or just what to stay away from at all costs! Thanks so much for all you do, Project Farm! You are a hero to people who buy and use tools that they rely on for their lives and livelihoods! Bravo!
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I love your product tests and will tune in and watch every week even it the product isn't on my radar, but it must be hard to keep producing a weekly show when you've reviewed so many of the "big" items. You're almost a 3M subs, and that's substantial. ย
I appreciate your:ย
humility,ย
fairness,ย
no Rock&Roll intro with lightning and thunder,ย
no CONSTANT "merch, patreon, etc",
no tough-guy loudmouth attitude,
you make your own testing rigs and your shop isn't Internet Fancy,
no sponsors. (I'll bet they're beating down your door!)
I could go on and on.
Quite a few of my tool purchases were inspired by your videos and I hope clicking your links helps.
Some YouTubers make another channel so as to not dilute the main one and risk losing subs.
Perhaps "Project Farm Builds:" or whatever where you could do side projects?
In the meantime it wouldn't be unreasonable to revisit and re-review some of the older tools as the specs may have changed or you could include other brands.
Nice to see this week total product cost under $200!
I think a lot of us will tune in no matter what you do.
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I have been using Motorkote for several years now and I really believe in this product. Everything from 70s Dodge Vans, boat motors, Gravely Tractors, Lawnboys, snowmobiles etc. I've had several impromptu tests. The first was a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am with about 150,000 hard miles on it that had all kinds of noises coming from it. I listened as I poured the specific dose into the running engine and to my surprise it got quiet! Second, was a mid 90s second hand Lawnboy 2 Cycle lawnmower that I purchased in a lot. It had the death rattle from day one and had slop in the shaft bearings. Well, whats done is done I figured so I decided I would mix a little Motorkote in with the gas every now and again and try to get what I could out of it. That mower ran 5 seasons for me due to what I feel was the Motorkote. Now, the test ended abruptly with it throwing it's connecting rod probably due to being repeatedly overheated and overstressed. Not good in some ways. The stuff is so good at what it does it could actually mask symptoms. The last test was my 1987 Yamaha Phazer snowmobile. I usually thow a little Motorkote in the gas tank and oil tank just as insurance. Well, two Winters ago it paid off. While out riding I noticed my exhaust pipe getting super hot. I thought perhaps a rodent had built a nest in it and it was just burning off. Well, about two miles more and I noticed a great loss of power and the heat was intense. The motor was not locked up but let's say it was tight. The oil pump on the oil injection system had quit unbeknownst to me! Thinking quickly I dumped the entire contents of the oil tank into the gas tank and waited for it to cool down. It started up and I ran it home at least 5 or more miles like that. Next day I performed hot and cold compression tests only to find that everything was still in specifications. Stuff smells really strange when it's burned in a 2 cycle and will probably end up killing me but it works! I'm not embellishing my story a bit. I mean I'm not surprised at all with your experiments. I have it in everything I own. Every third oil change on my street vehicles. I don't know what else to say. Seeing is believing. The Motorkote demonstration was enough to get me interested. The only time I would not recommend using it would be break-in on a new engine. You need heat and friction to seat piston rings etc. Good stuff folks! I'm not a paid endorser just a user.
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Thanks for the great video, as always.
I installed and repaired HVAC systems for over a decade and quickly became convinced that the cheap, fiberglass 1" filters do only a minimal job of protecting coils and furnaces. They stop large debris, but a wet A/C coil will still eventually clog up with fine dust even if the owner routinely changes the cheap filter (and many do not). An inexpensive pleated filter will offer far better protection to your equipment, but will probably need to be changed more often as it will catch far more stuff than a basic fiber filter.
If you're buying a new HVAC system or building a new home, you should definitely talk with your contractor about filtration options, especially those that add little additional expense such as having the ability to use 2" filters. This gives people more options. We don't want to force people to spend a fortune on filters, but improved air filtration can have multiple benefits, including:
1. Longer service life and less maintenance for furnace, air handler, and refrigerant coil.
2. Fewer indoor allergens, which reduces suffering for those that already have allergies, but may not stop babies and toddlers from developing allergies (early allergen exposure might be beneficial). As an allergy sufferer myself, I definitely benefit from filtration.
3. No need to routinely clean duct system, which is an expensive and potentially damaging job often done by contractors who may not be licensed and who sometimes use exaggerated claims to frighten people into having their ducts cleaned.
4. Less overall household dust, but vacuuming should still be done regularly as it keeps a lot of dust out of your potentially expensive furnace filter(s).
5. Reduced or eliminated need to purchase and operate standalone HEPA filter units.
Filter upgrades don't necessarily have to cost a fortune. If you choose somewhat better filters that have a lot of pleated surface area, you may be able to increase your filter change interval. While a single "good" filter is usually more expensive than a 4-pack of basic filters, the reduced need to go into the attic or crawl space plus some of the benefits listed above may make this a reasonable investment.
No matter what kind of filter you have, if a filter "looks" dirty, then it's probably past time to change it. If your filter has an opaque layer of dust on it that can rub onto a finger, then you should probably halve your current change interval (double the frequency). Such a layer greatly increases the workload to your blower and reduces airflow, which can then cause A/C freeze-up and potential compressor damage. Dirty filters can turn out to be very expensive.
MERV8 is often a fair compromise, as upgrading to MERV11 or higher filtration levels will usually require the consultation of a licensed expert. I do not recommend over-spending on air filtration except in cases of real medical need and I like to keep in mind that modern societies in rich nations seem easily attracted to over-cleaning and over-sterilizing their environments. Those with airborne allergies may substantially increase their quality of life with better air filtration, however.
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HUGE difference in time and options when I upgraded from the Work Sharp to the Hapstone. Eventually, those stones will wear out and need to be replaced. You have tons of options for the Hapstone (grit, stones: aluminum oxide, carbide, ceramic, diamond, CBN, stropping materials: cow, horse, kangaroo, etc.). You can also purchase an attachment for sharpening scissors.
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Each of your videos that I watched, sound more scientific than most of doctorate degree papers. Abstract, introduction, methodology, trial group, control group, outcome measures, analysis, results presentation, suggestions.. Everything is organized in a such brilliant way. I love watching your videos, with a great respect.
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As a man that absolutely loves that double battery makita skill saw, I feel a test that doesn't get tested often (due to the fact that feasibly, it can't) is the longevity test, and also a durability test. Makita may not have the flashiest skill saw, or best value out of the box, but they can be darned hard to beat. All of our Makita skill saws have been exceptionally durable, pack plenty of power and have given years of service. Whether it be this double battery, a rear handle saw, or single battery (6&1/2"). DeWalt certainly does have it's own fans, but in our experience, longevity is quite lackluster.
The only cause of death of one of our double battery Makita skill saws, was being left haphazardly next to an open can of Great Stuff in a trailer that was going down the road. The Great Stuff filled the motor with foam and it died then and there. It was quite sad.
But, great video!
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Here in Southern Ontario, Canada, condensation of water in fuel tanks is an ongoing winter problem. First, to prevent condensation keep your fuel tank at least half full when standing overnight. Secondly, use a fuel antifreeze additive regularly to prevent a buildup of water in the fuel tank; methyl alcohol (also known as methanol, wood alcohol, methyl hydrate and several other names), ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol can be used singly or as mixtures. Thirdly, if your fuel has frozen, chemicals dumped in the fuel tank can not get to the ice in the fuel line; the only solution is to heat the fuel line, preferably by moving the vehicle indoors, until the line thaws. For more info on these chemicals see Wikipedia entries for methanol, ethanol and isopropyl alcohol. Yes, I am a Chemist.
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Wow, that's... ...eerie...
When I started working in construction, I bought a small pack of all the major brands of blades, and ended sticking with the ultra expensive ass(...I mean, they still aren't that expensive in the grand scheme, they aren't making me broke) Lenox blades for my daily use blades because they always outlasted the other brands in the work I did day in and day out, so I rarely had to change them; and, Milwaukee blades for when I wanted the sharpest edge(when you need to leave a clean cut with only one chance to make that cut). It's amazing how my own experience with those two products really played out in this testing, it's kind of shocking actually.
Of course, if you don't want to spend 'too much' on razor blades, then minimizing how often you need to change blades by buying something as expensive as Lenox blades is obviously way off the table. But, when I'm cutting some material on a concrete floor all day, the extremely hard edge that theirs offer is worth it when they're making me money.
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Every time you do one of these tests that includes Irwin tools, I'm consistently impressed with how well they work. I have several of their items from over the years, but it's always impressive to me to see how well they do, especially for the money. Their bench chisels have been really good for me, over the years, as have all their other tools. Granted, they aren't the high end things, but for the amount I tend to use them, they are more than adequate. And I can usually have lunch with the money I've saved. Honestly, it's nice to see my suspicions confirmed, they do decent tools for a good price. I probably wouldn't use them in pro situation, but then, if I were in that situation, I could most likely afford the best. and would want them. Irwins do just fine for me.
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Hi "Project Farm", old retired Navy Veteran who has his own "project farm" to support. Again, thank you for your honesty, your humility, your integrity, and your dedication to helping fellow DIY's. Your test results are very practical and useful especially for people on a (limited) budget; they reflect issues that most of DIYers face especially the ones dealing with self-employment (like farmers, small shop owners, ...). It means a lot to us (the "little people"). I have subscribed to "Consumer's Reports" for over 40 years and their testing is good/accurate but your reviews are more "practical" and you do not hesitate to "call a cat, a cat" i.e. you actually rate/publish (number-wise) your results (something similar to the "Torque Test Channel"). Thank you for saving your viewers pain, frustration(s) and... money. Ciao, L (Morningside & Starshine Farms Inc.)
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Happy to see this Arco oil comparison! I always used it in the '70's until it wasn't sold east of the Mississippi any more. My car was a 1970 Buick Electra 225 with 111K miles. Very reliable car. Somehow I lost all oil and didn't know it. Maybe a shop didn't tighten the drain plug, I don't know but weeks later when the idiot light finally came on I was driving home from work at 50 mph. I looked at the dipstick and it was DRY, literally! It didn't even have the film of oil that remains when it's freshly wiped off, there was no drop on the tip, this looked like it hadn't been in any oil at all for a long time. I have no idea how long I drove with no oil. It was so long since it 'supposedly' was changed that I couldn't remember. I know it's hard to believe but it had to be the graphite oil I always used. I'd like to see you try to approximate that kind of test. Run an older engine long enough to cover everything and every gap with graphite then let it run out and see if the engine seizes up like it would with regular oil. There was a lot of talk back then about people being afraid the graphite would plug the filter but I never had any kind of oil related problems with a filter or that engine and never saw graphite settled out in the can. Back in the 70's I wasn't looking at viscosity and lubricity too much. I knew synthetics were better so I switched in the 80's. If they still sold Arco I'd have used it longer. In today's engines with tighter tolerances and thinner oil using that old 10W-40 graphite would be taking a chance. But it was great while I had it. I was Not surprised at all by the small wear mark from your lubricity test! That big difference alone is yelling out to take a closer look at this. My car didn't leak or burn oil either. I think the graphite may have helped seal those gaps. After that, I heard about oil with Molybdenum Disulfide in it. The molecular structure is the same as graphite, that's why it's also a lubricant. However, I never used it because if the graphite should burn it would make CO2 but if MoS2 burns in the cylinder, it forms Molybdenum dioxide, MoO2, which is a solid like silicon dioxide - sand, and I didn't want that in my oil. (Not to mention the sulfur poisoning the catalytic converters.) I've been wanting to relate this story for a long time. I think some comparison tests using the graphite coating in the engine might give some interesting results. I will add that the car was old when I got it, about 70K miles so maybe the worn surfaces were less liable to seize. It may have had a thick coating of graphite, I have no idea. Nowadays I'm happy with synthetics. My last car, 1989 Trans Am, had the original engine and trans with 149K miles when I sold it. My daily driver for 30.5 years. P.S. You commented on the high calcium level in the oil analysis and that calcium is used in the detergents. It could be high as a means of helping keep the graphite in suspension. I hope to see more graphite comparisons. I enjoy your tests. You do a good job.
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You are honestly an invaluable part of the youtube community.
Your technical presentation, framing, lighting, audio, are all consistently top-notch.
Your editing style wastes ZERO time, there's never a single second of your videos I want to skip.
Your testing methodology is always excellent, appropriate, consistent, fair, and fully explained and shown.
You are an outstanding shining star, and a premiere resource of invaluable information.
Thank you so much for all your work <3
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Iโm sure this has already been said, if so, please forgive the redundancyโฆ but yโallโฆ get on your feet and put your hands together for this man! He is out there crushing it every week and still drops us a video even on holiday weekends. These tests are not only extremely expensive, but require an enormous amount of time! Camera set up, lighting, rolling while testing, retakes, downloading, editing/post production, then uploading to us each and EVERY week. This is precious precious time that Todd could be spending with his family.
Todd, we appreciate your dedication and loyalty to us and the channel.
My list of resolutions this year include being more mindful and showing true appreciation of not only this channel, but other channels of good content. Wishing many blessings of health and prosperity to each and every one of you!
Thanks again Todd!
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I've been an hvac technician for 4 years, this video was a fun watch. I can tell you from experience that most systems (at least systems that I've worked on) can't handle a 1 inch filter with an 8 merv rating. In general an hvac system is designed to run at .5 overall static. Thats the filter, A/C coil, overall duct work friction, and even the furnace itself. When the system is initially designed it can be designed to handle a high merv rated filter. In reality systems aren't designed to handle a high merv filter. As of 2020 a new motor technology called constant torque comes standard with every furnace. The name speaks for itself but I will briefly explain why its a game changer. Before 2020 PSC motors were the industry standard motor for nearly all furnaces. PSC motors are great but their output CFM is determined by static pressure and the output can range wildly as static pressure changes. Filter get dirty, you get less air. Filter is brand new, you get more air. Constant torque is quite the opposite. A constant torque motor can maintain the same CFM all the way up to .8 static. The way this is done is too complex to explain for a YouTube comment but the result of the technology is a system that is able to deliver a constant CFM even as static (resistance) changes. Additionally, in high altitude areas where the air is thinner, constant torque actually puts out more overall CFM to maintain a constant mass air flow. That means the system won't be at a deficit simply because of thinner air.
Once again, great video, very informative. Hope I was able to teach someone something with this lengthy comment.
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Dude, you totally crushed this review! The tests were extremely realistic, and your ability to isolate and compare functions/strengths is outstanding! The guided fall blew me away, very well thought out. I was also surprised that the winner was such a good value, as well. It's disappointing that the HF entry did so poorly, but not surprising. Thanks for the effort you put into getting such useful results, I only wish you had time to test everything in existence, to save us from the inevitable bad purchases we make (without data.)
I have had a Dewalt driver for a few years now (maybe not the exact model tested) and it's been a very useful tool. Unfortunately, I'm now invested into the Dewalt battery ecosystem, so it would be difficult to switch brands now. I've seen many of your product reviews, oil tests, etc, but if you can keep testing tools as thoroughly and concisely as you did here, you're going to crush some very worthy channels! You are the new standard for power tool testing!
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I will have to check out the Amazon Basics Silver batteries. However, I'm very much looking forward to your future video on the 3/6/9/12 month tests, because shelf life and number of recharge cycles play a HUGE role in rechargeables. Obviously, the more recharging potential a battery has, the better cost efficiency over time. That's why I use the Eneloop batteries. They may not have looked good in this test, but they are supposed to have the best shelf life, the least recharge memory, and be capable of the most recharge cycles of any other brand.
Are those the latest generation of Eneloop's? I assume they are, but just checking. Also, there's additionally Eneloop Pro batteries, which have a significantly higher capacity. They just aren't rated to be as durable.
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Todd,
Great info on oils to help DIY folks and to allow everyone to pick better engine oils and protect their vehicles.
The test I would like to see is the same oil producerโฆbut different viscosities. So say 0W-16, 0W-20, 0W-30, and 0W-40โฆ. All made by same manufacture and the same โlineโ for that manufacturer. The viscosities at 100C should be ~ 6, 7, 10, and 12 cP, respectively. Key items would be the lubricity test at ~100C, evaporization loss, and flow at both low (0C) and high (100C) temperature.
So point is to determine how good low viscosity oils protect against wear vs higher viscosity (even if only 6 cP viscosity delta across the 4 oils (at operating temp of 100C)).
Is getting a very small increase in gas mileage reducing the engine life? I want to get at least 300k from an engine. So need the best protection.
Thanks for considering this test and keep up the great work!
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It's no surprise that bacon grease (or really, any rendered fat) makes a good lubricant. Part of the reason is that it adheres to the metal so well. Even after it solidifies, it should lubricate well enough to start an engine and run it up to the melting point. Under load, as the video showed, it has pretty good film strength. Railroads used to use rendered fats (like whale oil!) as rod lubricants because they worked so well.
As to leaving the cylinder clean, burning the grease would release some hydrocarbon chains of various lengths, which might act as vaporized solvents. Just a guess. But burning it would also release acrolein from the decomposition of glycerine (fats are triglycerides, after all) and acrolein is nasty. It'll make your eyes and throat burn, and can polymerize and form a film, and then a crust, on a cool surface. It may even glaze the cylinder wall. Decomposition of glycerine may account for the change in viscosity after being run in an engine. It would free up the fatty acids to an oil form.
Everything has its trade-offs.
Bonus: Fats can be broken apart, much like soap-making, with lithium hydroxide. It forms a sort of "lithium soap" that is actually sold as a lubricant with many of the good properties of fats, has less tendency to decompose, and is not acidic, as fatty acids (the hydrocarbon component of fats) are. So if you can get some lithium, you could try making this out of bacon grease. (Just take the lithium metal from a battery and put it in water. You end up with lithium hydroxide.)
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Thanks for another great video ! An old guy once told me he used WHEY to loosen rusted manifold bolts on a marine engine. He said you could then turn the bolts out with your fingers. He chose to use whey because they used to feed their pigs on whey from the local cheese factory, and the iron feeding pots never got rusty. I've had good results using whey on rusty tools, bolts steel wire and chain. Sometimes I left the rusty item immersed for a week or more. Can be a bit stinky in the hot sun, but put a lid on the plastic pail. When done, wash the item off with soapy water, dry it, then apply a coating to prevent rusting again. As a quick fix, I threw several lengths of chain in pails of used engine oil over the winter. I may wipe off most oil, leaving enough so I can store chain in damp conditions. Or I may clean up and spray cold galvanize or some other pail coating. Whey is cost effective for big jobs if, as I did, you get pails of whey for free from a cheese factory. [ RIP Uncle Billy ]
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Great video!!! Used equipment is definitely the way to go, unless youโre a millionaire. In that case you probably arenโt farming!!!! Iโve worked on farms, and 2 dealerships in the past. I still have nightmares from stacking square bales!!! ๐ 1 dealership sold John Deere, and the other sold Case IH, and Kubota. I know the cost of equipment, and parts, and as long as you maintain your equipment (like anything else) it will serve you well. If I were going to buy a smaller tractor, Iโd go with Kubota also. The farm I worked at as a teenager (Iโm 53 now) had Kubota, and when he retired a few years ago, STILL had some of the same tractors I used. Still running, and in good shape. Kubotaโs seem to have less mechanical problems as well in my experience, so I think thereโre a better tractor for smaller farms. Itโs a toss up when you get over a 100hp. Case IH, and John Deere make great equipment, so it just depends if you look red, or green.
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From personal experience...
For small jobs like those in this video, Instead of standard left-twist extractors, I use a small diamond cutting wheel in a dremel to cut a slot, then use a straight, flat-blade screwdriver to twist the screw or bolt out.
It helps to have a LARGE old American-made screwdriver or a modern Teutonic tool. Cheap imported screwdrivers tend to break or twist too easily.
If this is for a machine application, (metal to metal) then I apply some WD40 or Seafoam penetrating product first.
Really stubborn bolts that have been work-hardened and rusted (as on old heavy machinery or large sea-going ships) require all those techniques plus HEAT from a blow torch, then a sudden freeze with compressed air. I used that last summer on an old tractor that had been sitting outside for decades. It worked.
These techniques usually work. And if none of that works, then it's time to drill, fill and re-tap.
LOVE this channel! Always great info and well presented too. I usually don't comment, but this one time I wanted to share these techniques which have helped me over the last fifty-five years, and helped my dad long before that.
Best wishes to all. Stay healthy. Resist tyranny.
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First of all, I would like to thank you for all of your extremely helpful and educational videos. I have been a huge fan of yours for many years now because I have always dreamed of doing exactly the things that you are doing on your videos but lack the technical and scientific attitude required. In fact, I was one of your earliest subscribers. You Sir are a โUnicornโ in this day and age on YouTube and social media in general due to your independence, unsponsored and therefore unbiased testing methodologies, which is the primary reason I have been a loyal fan of your channel. I I am also impressed by your humility, and that you are willing to take suggestions and advice from your viewers, instead of acting as a perfect expert. I have always been extremely impressed and grateful that someone like you with over 2.8 million subscribers still conducts testing independently without any sponsors and without trying to sell or endorse products. You have managed to establish, increase, and maintain your credibility precisely by refusing sponsorship and endorsements.
Finally, I would like to add more sincere kudos to you being an American farmer. Farmers in America are one of our nationโs unsung heroes for centuries now. Many do not realize how fortunate and blessed we are to have hard-working people, and a country with nearly all the natural resources required to sustain our societies stability and continued prosperity.
I wish you continued success, and I really hope you will continue to remain independent and unbiased. I have learned so much from your channel and have increased my overall knowledge of the practical and skills that I have been able to use to help my family, friends, and the community that I am a member of. Thank you very much for all your efforts to to help make us, smart and well informed consumers.
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I wanted to see you do THIS very project and requested it in the past, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the incredible work you do and for always being so logical, thorough and unbiased in all of your project setups, testing protocols and final analyses! I am a huge nerd who loves to learn but does not have the means, nor your degree of expertise, to perform ALL of the various product comparisons I've always wanted to do in order to work smarter--not harder.
It is for this reason that your channel and the almost unbelievable plethora of project farm head-to-head tests / comparisons make my life so much easier. Without your high integrity testing methodology and truly unbiased approach, I'd be forced to rely on far more subjective "reviews" (too many of which shill for a particular brand unbeknownst to the consumer), or I'd have to accept the fact that many of my projects would quite likely have a higher degree of inherent failures due to lack of real-world data points from which to extrapolate the BEST or MOST SUITABLE product to meet my unique needs.
Again.....working smarter, rather that harder, means I don't want to have rework, especially if it occurs multiple times for something that could have been avoided had I done sufficient research or had access to the kind of unbiased, side-by-side, practical comparisons that not only provide a simple excel-type table or spreadsheet of relevant specs & data points, but I have the advantage of being able to be a fly on the wall in your shop and to soak in the knowledge as I have time and need.
One great thing that I've discovered over time by watching numerous head-to-head roundups here is that in nearly every case where I've performed similar tests--often ritualistic and very OCD-like tests to help me get over my anxiety & worry of choosing the wrong product for a task--or by trial and error I've learned volumes on what DOESN'T work, I find incredible comfort and satisfaction in discovering that YOUR TESTS SO OFTEN CORRELATE WITH MY REAL-WORLD FINDINGS.
That has provided me a good measure of faith & trust in my own abilities to make accurate assessments and to logically discern the critical information necessary from so much of my everyday life; whatever the days bring my way and what will be next on my list of repairs, maintenance and upgrades to home, auto & tech!
I know that's a LOT to read, but it is sincere and from the heart, thus I believe it carries more weight than a mere "thank you," even if that expression of gratitude is in ALL CAPS. LOL Again....I hope it is truly fulfilling for you knowing that you help so many through your work here on the channel. I realize this is NOT easy, nor cheap to pull off. Hell, the video editing skills alone are worth their weight in gold and I wish I could pick your brain on that subject as well.
Happiest holidays to you and yours.
Namaste.
Cheers!
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-- Again congrats on the sub count. Had an idea for you: Power converters, DC to AC. Modulated sign waves versus pure sign, different brands, with tests largely focused on automotive applications.
Personal experience. I've never seen a modulated wave converter hurt anything, but that they do is through the grape vine. On the other side, under heavy load, I've heard pure sign can do more damage as they can't hold the wave. And what does that mean, say, if your running a laptop on a modulated wave converter, when the laptop itself has a converter, then a batt to smooth out that power?
Might be a fun trip down the rabbit hole. Still like to see an electric mower review against a good gas one, hand/head flashlights. But do what you do. Thumbs up.
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EGAD! I watch ALL of your videos, even if I have no particular interest in what you are testing(rare ! ")
It beggars my vocabulary to find words that adequately express the admiration in which I hold you, for cleverly designing testing jigs, mechanisms, ingenious " tools " , & your capability for eliminating to the extent possible, sources of test error, & your adherence to minimizing sources of advantage or disadvantage amongst the devices under test. You cobble ("cobble" in this instance is a positive term), ,together ingenious testing schemes from common, easily available materials of low cost , thereby achieving near professional test lab grade results ! Engineering schools would do well to adopt some (or all !!) of your methodologies. I admire the fact that you accept no "freebies" or compensation from manufacturers or other sources, & I have yet to see any evidence of bias for or against any product.
Your YouTube "channel" is a marvelous adjunct for those seeking the "real " info for the quality of products folks may intend to purchase. You represent Sir, the "acme" of testing excellence. Cheers!, Brian
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Hi Project Farm,
I'm really enjoying your product comparisons. Including this one, despite my favorite Chain Lube (Dupont Chain Saver) not showing all that well. I use it on my eBike/eScooters, the the chains seem to hold up well, but they aren't run in high speed conditions like a motorcycle. Instead, they are run at 15-35mph, for 6-10 mi at a time, and lubed frequently.
I agree with the poster below, that I'd like to see the motorcycle chemical manufacturers. Maxima, Bel ray, Pj1, Motul etc also tested. And, against the winner CRC of this test.
Thanks in advance for entertaining and informative, Real World information we all can use.
BTW, I've only learned of your channel in the last few months, and I subscribed immediately. Now, I give a thumbs up before I even watch the video, knowing it's going to teach me something and I appreciate your hard work to be fair in your evaluations.
Stay safe and healthy.
cheers
Boots Langley
La Mesa, ca
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One of the local job lot type stores here in New England was selling 4- foot LED fixtures for $12. That's right, entire fixtures, with the LED tubes, for $12! We tested a couple of them at work, and they were surprisingly good; easy on the eyes, good light spectrum, and they did not emit any appreciable RF noise (important if you want to use a radio, especially an AM radio, ugh, in your shop). At that insanely low price, I wouldn't simply buy more expensive LED tubes with which to retrofit to existing fixtures, unless for some reason you really really really don't want to hang and wire new fixtures.....
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This video is much appreciated by me. Thank you!
I was an engineer for GE in the 70's and 80's. I supervised overhauls of GE gas turbine generator and compressor drive units all over the world. Bolts ranged from 1/2 inch to 2 inch and sometimes larger. Antiseize on absolutely clean threads was extremely necessary. The bolts in the hot sections were usually tough to remove a few years later. But the unit that somebody put together dry was a nightmare to take apart. We broke 1-1/4-8tpi bolts off on vertical joints and each had to be drilled out or ground out with peanut grinders before the section could be lifted out by crane. That took 5 days working around the clock and even more grinding and drilling once the turbine shell was removed. The magnetic base drill earned its keep on that job.
Some of the smaller steam turbines we worked on typically had 4 foot long studs with 4 inch diameter threads. These studs had a 3/4 inch hole drilled through the center end to end. We put a special oxy-acetelene-compressed air heater in the hole to heat the stud from the inside to blow hot air through it.The turbine cases had to be cold...room temperature first. After proper heating of the stud, the top and bottom nuts came off easily if they had been assembled with antiseize years before. The heat makes the stud grow lengthwise and they come off pretty easily if they had been assembled with anti seize like C5-A or Nickel Never Seez.
To tighten the studs, you put them all in with nuts on top and bottom. Then you smacked each one with a slugging wrench, huge forged steel heavy duty box end wrenches tied to a rope with some big guy smacking the end of the wrench. We used a 6 pound sledge hammer until it stopped. Then we marked the nuts and casing with a soapstone. A chart tells you how many more degrees to turn to tighten the nut after heating the stud for 15 minutes or so. Very often we could turn the nut by gloved hands to match the other mark on the casing, no wrench necessary. When it cooled down, the stud would require many thousands of foot pounds to remove the nut. Do this to all of the casing studs and that turbine shell remains massively tight whether hot or cold.
The one time some mechanic at a large lumber mill thought it would be better to glass bead blast the studs on a steam turbine before assembly, every one of them galled up coming apart even coated with anti seize. The customer screwed up the overhaul and we were called in 2 weeks later to take it apart again and fix it right. We fought those nuts off with slugging wrenches all the way and had to replace several of the 150 pound studs because the threads were galled so badly. We always wirewheeled all of the threads on all jobs and made sure they were clean. We used Nerver Seez nickel on high temperature bolts, C5-A copper on 200 degree or less applications.
ย There was also special anti seize with a pedigree and trace-ability papers as to when and where it was made , serial number on each can. We used this extreme high dollar stuff on ''Sub Safe'' and ''Mercury Free'' certified jobs on small turbines, reactor feed pumps, and main propulsion turbines on nuclear powered subs and aircraft carriers. It takes a month to do a 4 day job with all of the barriers, paperwork, witnesses, specifications, inspections, red tape, etc.
To this day in my late 60's I assemble every bolted piece in my work shop, cars, truck, etc, with anti seize. The cost is peanuts for the headaches it saves.
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G'day,
This was indeed interesting..., I've been lighting my Life with Deep Cycle Lead Acids, mostly used ones, for 20 years, and 34 years ago I first tried using a Truck Battery for the job.
Firstly, when using Electrolyte with a specific Gravity of 1.3 then a Lead Acid Cell produces 2.2 Volts, so 6 of them in a Battery means 13.2 Volts is "Fully-Charged".
All my textbooks, dating from 1928 to 1990 agree on that.
However the Insurance Industry herded the Battery Industry to move from Point-Of-Sale filling of Dry Batteries to ALL units being filled at the Factory & shipped Wet..., the better to reduce (PAYOUTS from) Nincompoop-Spills-Acid type Accidents, at the point-of-sale.
However, a neglected Battery loses 1% of it's Stored Charge per day if left alone, and it begins Sulphating if the Lead Sulphite is left on the part-discharged Plates for any more than 24 hours...
And thus, 40 days after first filling a neglected Battery is 40% flat & thoroughly sulphated..., ie it's halfway wrecked - and it'll never make it through the Warranty Period...
So the Industry, maybe 15 or 20 years ago, quietly began filling all the new Batteries with Electrolyte watered down to 1.265...., so until the Alterntator can boil off the extra Water then the Battery can only deliver 13 Volts - thus suddenly,
"12.8 Volts is a Fully Charged Battery !" became the new Doctrine.
But by starting out with watered-down Electrolyte, the Battery only loses 0.92% of it's Stored Charge per day....; and that adds 32 days onto the "Shelf-Life" of the unsold factory-filled Battery.
Therefore, here in Oz they're all filled in Adelaide, trucked all over Oz, and if unsold 65 days after being shipped out..; then they're routinely trucked back again for Recycling.
The Trucks visit points of sale Daily to Weekly to Monthly - depending on rate of Sale...; the same truck which delivers the New takes the Unsold away again.
Which is partly why "75% of all the Lead going into New Batteries is from Recycled Sources"...; and it's also why the new Batteries sold are an extra 60% more expensive, to cover the Freight & the Recycling costs on everything which goes back unsold.
My guess is that the Walmart Battries are so good because Walmart has the highest throughput - so therefore their Batteries are less likely to have been "Pre-Aged" while Sulphating and sitting Neglected, while waiting to be sold, uncharged on the Shelf (shiny Plastic Caps on the Terminals y'see, to prove the Brand Newness !).
And all to make more money for the Shareholders in the Insurance "Industry".
People are remarkably stupid, especially in big numbers ; when one pays attention to what they do, and why they think they're doing it.
In my experience, anyway (!).
Such is Life,
Have a good one.
;-p
Ciao !
So
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This is only the second video I have seen of your and I think they are pretty awesome. Definitely going to click the subscribe button and watch a few more.
I like how you gave the results but took it from a perspective of what the buyer is looking for because some people are looking for different qualities in their products. The other video I saw of yours was the boots and honestly, you could save people money if they don't need certain features. This also helps to eliminate certain biases related to how the products perform.
As for these filters, I see a lot of people in the comments praising the ZeroWater filter because of how well it was able to filter out TDS, not going to lie, I'm pretty impressed with its capabilities. The only thing that concerns me and is well worth mentioning is that not all TDS is bad. Some TDS includes minerals and electrolytes that can be beneficial for the human body (its what plants crave! Jk Jk, on a serious note some of them are necessary for life, but at small levels, not Brando levels). It probably isn't a huge concern to drink water with zero TDS if you are getting those minerals from other sources (Calcium is just one example), but it could become an issue if this filter is used somewhere that proper nutrition is hard to come by. My exe's mother developed some kind of terrible stomach issue from several years of drinking "Ultra Purified Water" because she was deficient in a specific mineral. I don't remember the full details, but it was awful. I'd imagine this would be a bigger issue for people in third world countries and/or people on vessels crossing the ocean with limited food stock (remember scurvy?), or similar situations. Spring water has some levels of TDS related to the minerals that are in it and those minerals are good for your body.
I guess what I am getting at is that while the ZeroWater filter is quite impressive, if someone plans on using it exclusively, they might want to make sure they are getting the minerals their filter removed from some other nutrition source to avoid a deficiency later on.
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I totally enjoy your tests and your videos seen on the Project Farm.
The time and engineering you put into these videos without compensation is incredible and should not go unappreciated by your viewers or subscribers.
I was particularly interested in this segment due to my use of the Shell Nitro fuel, exclusively for the past 3 yrs - in both of my drivers,
My truck is tuned to run for added performance on the 93 octane fuel, but I also use it in our car, as a matter of preference.
I had a local station of generic branding hurt me with a tank of water years ago and this caused me to look for a trustworthy fuel.
I guess the hype and claims of Shell won me over - and I went for it.
It is FACT THAT all GASOLINE IS THE SAME blend of fuel - when it is moved from refineries and pulled from the pipelines by the branded distributors for their sales.
But their proprietary additives blended in and delivered via their trucks to their pump stations contain the ONLY "differences" they have to compete with, among themselves.
The claim that Ferrari engineers combined with Shell to create this "Nitro" as their ultimate high octane super detergent fuel may be all hot air - just like the entire fuel "crisis" of the 1970's. We have repeatedly been lied to by the government. OPEC, and everyone associated with any industry making this level of profit. But I digressed.
My question that lingers after your video is one of the generated "power". If the octane difference "alone" (compared between 87 and 93) actually generate more power, particularly in the case of the engine tuned with the advanced fuel timing to make use of it - Does this provide increased power/performance and therefore have the POTENTIAL to produce more power or better efficiency resulting in MPG? I realize that YOUR video defined its scope to comparison of Shell Nitro Vs. a generic cheap 87 octane fuel - and NOT comparison between power and other output considerations (that may or may not exist between the octane ratings alone). But in either case, your efforts - and the scientific logic you employ - are excellent.
Thank you for all that you do and share, I have subscribed to your channel for many years now - and never been disappointed. Your commitment to remain independent and unbiased is extremely rare and a pleasure to behold. I respect you exceedingly and applaud your grit, intelligence, and candor. Best wishes to you.
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The tire chains on your truck had me think of a test that might be a bit expensive and challenging: Best off-road tires and/or Best snow tires, where "Best" = most traction, most durable, lightest, economical. A bit expensive, but maybe there's a lab test you could design for a single tire, or two (for a minimum of reproducibility).
Regardless, thank you for your work! I've been subscribed for a few months (since the beginning of the "zombie apocalypse"). Your dedication to providing highly usable, scientifically informed data is really inspiring. In a former life, I was an experimental elementary particle physicist, but now I'd love to farm. I've got some products in my Amazon list "for the farm" from your reviews. If you get tired of farming, I suspect you'd do well in experimental or applied physics! :-)
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With mineral and synthetic, you should be fine...
BUT
Many years ago Valvoline did a lot of their race oils using a vegetable base - caster oil* - and that DID NOT mix well with the mineral oils then available (pre-synthetic days) and there were a LOT of engines that were destroyed when people topped up their 'race' or high performance engines, that had been built for, and used, Valvoline. IIRC, it was becaause alcohol fuels worked better with the caster base?
Later, at least down here, Valvoline also sold mineral based oils which confused even more people and toasted even more engines, as the mix formed rubbery deposits with zero lubrication properties and blocked up the oilways.
Conversely, some people were using mineral oils and swapped to the 'performance' caster oil with a similar result.
*Some old cars, especially race cars, will still use caster oils and, in fact, that is where one of the UKs leading oils got their brand name - CASTROL.
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While I have absolutely no reason to buy almost any of the products you test, I can't help but feel that these tests are invaluable for someone who may need them. They're so well put together and the comparisons you make are extraordinary. The money and time you put into producing these videos definitely doesn't fall on deaf ears, and those who have went out to buy these products will definitely have thought of you when they did. So, on behalf of many consumers looking for an unbiased review, thank you!
What I would've like to have seen would be an actual torque test, say, make a mount for the gear, and attach a pole of a known length to it, and put it on some kind of scale. You could then calculate the torque using ฯ = N m, where ฯ = torque, N = force in newtons and m = radius in meters. I think that would be a good comparison to show relative to the "slow" rotation of the Milwaukee brand chainsaw due to the gearing in it. Speed usually means better, but power is also a massive factor. A feather going the speed of sound isn't particularly threatening, however a bowling ball going at even 5m/s is definitely a worry.
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This was in 1976: Bought a 66 Pontiac Tempest with a 389 2bbl in it. Oil was BLACK but full on the stick, drained out 3 1/3ish quarts of hot tar, changed filter. Filled with 5 quarts of diesel, showed about 1/2" over on the stick. Idled for about 15 minutes. Idle oil pressure dropped from 30 with the tarry original oil to a little over 15 on the diesel. Drained out about 6 1/2ish quarts of mud. Changed filter again filled with 5 quarts of diesel again. Idled for 10 minutes oil press still at 15+, drained out about 6 quarts of very dirty diesel. Replaced filter again, filled with 5 quarts of Valvoline 20 wt. Idled for 10 min, oil pressure rose to about 25. Drove 25ish miles. Drained out a little over 5 quarts, kinda dirty, including filter. Replaced filter again, filled with 5 quarts of Valvoline 20w50. Engine had gained an immense amount of power over this experiment. It had multiple noisy lifters when I started the process, they had quieted down nicely by the end. Exhaust / blow-by smoke was pretty bad at the beginning, nothing visible by the end. Numerous oil leaks popped up on the valve covers and one on the rear corner of the oil pan, snugging the bolts fixed them. I used new cheapie filters with the diesel to make sure they didn't plug up, used Napa Gold for final. On the next oil change, I added a qt of Slick 50. HEY! It was supposed to work! (1976) I wouldn't have done anything so severe if the engine was in better running condition to begin with. Have had several friends copy my method with several different vehicles with mixed results. Consensus is: if it may be a basket case, not much is lost by doing this and it may find a gem in hiding. I will do the add a quart of diesel, not to exceed 25% of total oil, to a warm engine and idle for 10 minutes before changing oil if oil is dirtier than normal. Stopped the Slick50 years ago. Not very scientific, but dead reckoning tempered with experience, sneak up on doing this, you could cost yourself some serious money. There are NO miracles, only little tweaks. Good Luck! 68 yr old retired electronics geek. Michael in Colorado.
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Great videos. I really enjoy them. Awesome videos. Well planned and thought out.
I bought sold/flipped and assisted with over 400+ cars for many years and have a few tricks to tell people about. Not a trick but a tip. Detail your car and sell it yourself. Dont trade it in. No one I know of had ever worked with buys cars by Kelly Blue Book. They use a small black book, which is for the region they are in. That is how they buy and sell cars. Another tip dont trust any car reports. They only work if the people who traded it in took it to an oil change place or the dealership. Go by condition. A little secret of the industry, almost all cars can have their miles rolled back. It is not that hard. It happens at a lot of car dealerships. Even digital miles CAN be rolled back. One of the greatest tips I can give anyone car wise is if you have any trouble with the dealer or if they did not disclose everything, go to your DMV office. A lot of dealerships have friend shops that will pass an inspection for them. Another tip, always let the car warm up then test drive it. On test drives dont go where the salesman wants you to go, go to an empty safe open parking lot and get out and look under the car. There should be no colored fluid leaks, clear water is fine. If there is clear fluid and its slippery it is brake fluid. Check every single fluid in the vehicle, none of them should smell burnt or acrid. Check the oil before and after test drive on EVERY CAR. If it is foamy, or looks like a chocolate milkshake run. Last tip, never ever believe that a it "just needs a tune up" or it needs something small. If that was the case more often then not they would have replaced it. If it does not feel right, WALK AWAY. Do not get emotionally attached. There will be more units, take your time.
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Cleaner combustion chamber makes sense. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon, heat in cylinder burns off the volatile components in the gasoline, leaving the carbon behind. Motor oil, also a hydrocarbon, albeit a less refined version compared to gasoline, has the same dynamic in combustion chamber. Combined deposits from burnt gasoline and oil is what you see afterwards. Now, factor in the bacon grease, when liquified, it has less viscosity, therefore gets past piston rings, and valve guides. It doesn't have the same type of molecular carbon as petroleum, because it is organic. Anyone who has cooked bacon, and splattered grease everywhere knows the challenge of cleanup. The bacon grease coating on piston, valves, cylinder walls, and underside of cylinder head makes it so the burnt carbon deposits from the gasoline can't adhere as well to those surfaces. Sounds like a good oil additive if someone can synthesize it and make it work. Imagine an engine with bacon grease oil, running on clean burning propane....
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1st off, your videoโs are outstanding.
2ndly, Iโm not a Farmer, but I do know I could have never survived doing it, as Farming is Not in any way an easy way to make a Living, today or in the past and the Story of my In-Laws below tells the Story of what it took to be a Milk Farmer for 25 years, with only the ownership of the Land and Equipment to show for it.
There are far too many obstacles, such as the Market Price you sell your items for. For instance, if the year was great and you had a Bumper Crop, you didnโt do any better, because the whole market was swamped with Product and if it was a Bad Year, the Middle Man took the Profits and it was a lose -lose game. If not for the subsidies from the Government, to help Farmers, then there would be far less farms today.
Also, by selling the Development Rights to your land was another way to gain $$$ and keep the land in the Family and as a Farm, because far too often, Farmers who had Communities popping up all around them, had very lucrative buy outs by Developers and the Government, to build Housing, Schools, etc... but that has left us with far less Farm Land to feed the people. So God Bless those who Sell the Development Rights & get very little in return for each acre of land (nearly $3,000 an acre) thatโs worth 4 times as much.
My In-Laws Story as Iโve seen it since I was 12 years old;
My Father-in-Law started as a Milk Farmer with 4 Stalls for a long time, until he couldnโt make ends meet and it drove him nearly insane, because itโs a 24/7 operation and he only had 1 farm hand for many of those years, who lived on the farm in a trailer, before his 2 boys were old enough to help out. Fortunately, his Father & several Brothers were Farmers as well in the area, with similar situations, where they rarely ever went on Vacation due to the inability to get coverage to take care of their Farms when they were Away or Sick.
Sickness isnโt a reason to stop, when Cows milking time comes and what made life extremely difficult was the few times they came for his Milk on a Monthly Basis and the Milk had Bacteria in it, where they dump your whole Months worth of Milk & Farmers live from Month to Month Paychecks, which I witnessed 1st hand, as they went from Feast to Famine from the beginning to the end of the Month, but of course the Milk and Beef & Eggs were never in Short Supply.
Then there was the Sickness, Injuryโs or Having the Babies with No Way to afford Health Insurance and that was some time ago & heโs still at it at 70+ years old. Though the Worst of it all, was when he was using a Chain Saw to Cut up Fire Wood in the days before Chain Saw Safeties and hit a Nail in a log. The Chainsaw kicked back up and cut right through his Nose, Front Teeth and was a 1/4โ from his Brain. Since he didnโt know how bad the damage was, he took his shirt off, and covered his face, picked up his Gear and walked back to the Farm House. When my Mom-in-Law saw him, she did her best not to panic and told him that she would need to call an ambulance, but he refused and just wanted to see his hometown Doctor. She could only agree, called the Dr and they called for the ambulance, after hearing what happened, so it was waiting for him when he arrived.
God saved his life that day, but that took a lot of $$$ to get fixed to the point youโd never know he ever had surgery & fortunately he had Family that jumped in and rotated helping the Family out by running the Farm for several weeks.
He never did let my Mom-in-Law do any Farm Work, nor my Wife & the 3 Boys weโre raised to live their lives & help when they could. I actually met them, because of Momโs generosity in picking my Brothers & I up and taking us to Church, which changed my life, but didnโt really help Dad out, since I had health issues, but became a Tradesman and was able to Re-Install Power to the Barns for him.
Once he realized that he could no longer make it Farming, he started to Contract Farm for other big Farms, While raising beef on his farm to this day, which has changed him completely, financially & every other way. Heโs built a nice Home, with Central Air and Heat, something they never had in the old Farmhouse and its so different that my kids have no idea how hard they had it & they really donโt believe the stories from those days.
The joke about their health has been that once they went on Medicare, it cost them more $$$, possibly around $20,000 since they started using the insurance because they hadnโt been to a Doctor in 10 years and once they started going itโs been just one thing after another.
GOD Bless all our Farmers across America and let us all know the Sacrifices they provide to our Country to keep us Fed!
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I learned about E3 spark plugs when I began to experience misfiring while running brand new Motorcraft Iridium stock replacement plugs in my Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 SOHC. The stock replacement plugs lasted 2 months running premium (93 octane) gasoline, which the stock engine should based on its compression ratio, run 87 octane, which my situation is not this case. The problem was not immediately approached by my mechanic since he had recently replaced all 6 plugs. Once it was localized and the plugs began to be pulled, each looked like they had come out of a race engine. I couldnโt believe how fouled these plugs were after such a short period of time. I have an aftermarket tune of the ECU and add on hardware so the engine can handle premium gas, so I went to E3 to solve this problem. I learned the counter intuitive nature of the proper plugs used based on temperature, cold temperature plugs working best under hot conditions didnโt make a lot of sense when I first heard of this. Given E3 offers both hot and cold temp range plugs, the plug recommended for my engine was not the plug I decided to use. This decision was made after several hours of extensively discussing my situation with E3 Customer Service, they assessed my situation uniquely and provided both the recommended plug number and the plug number that was not recommended but has a colder temp range plug. Given the risk vs reward being worth this risk, I went with the desirable colder plugs for hotter burning fuel. I ordered 6 E3.53 plugs and had them installed.
What a difference, the more upgrades made to the system overall, the greater results produced in terms of power, fuel efficiency, and engine responsiveness makes the right E3 plug for your application a non-question. It took experiencing this for myself to have caused me to feel similarly as mentioned in the video when comparing the superiority of the E3 plug over the others which isnโt expected. My decision to use the E3.53 for the custom engine stated when it was initially upgraded and the stock plugs were used because Ford had advised doing so and they were wrong. This just goes to show mistakes can happen so make sure the plug used is triple checked before itโs purchased. It was my own choice at the risks associated with using a spark plug not recommended for the engine at hand, risks associated, that should not be taken lightly nor replicated.
As a result, I do not condone this plug being used in the engine stated, for many reasons, one being the choice to do so was made on a very unique basis which doesnโt apply to stock engines of this type. This shouldnโt and isnโt going to take the focus, but unfortunately this has to be said.
The one risk with E3 plugs that I am aware of in a different class, consists of using the recommended plug within 75% of the time period stated when being replaced. This is the case because itโs possible for the crown of the plug to shear or break off during operation. As many know, the broken pieces find their way into the cylinder wall instantaneously and then possibly into the oil pan. Their presence in an undesirable location destroys your engine in an instant. To ensure this does not happen, as a result of personal use and receiving/applying information directly from the manufacturer, the awareness to change E3 plugs at 75% was stated over the phone. I did as they said and changed the plugs at 75% of the recommended time. Replacing the plugs prior to the time they would typically be replaced reduced the chance of a single crown out of 6 in my case, breaking off due to the number of times the metal expands and contracts.
This isnโt full proof but it eliminates a majority of the window where the highest probability exists for the crown of the plug to shear off after hundreds of heating and cooling cycles occurs. This weakens the metallic material over time, or quick if the wrong plug is used. Good luck and I would highly recommend the E3 spark plugs for applications which include a plug where a cross references exists for the the appropriate E3 plug. You wonโt be disappointed and utilize the advance notice of 75% operation and replace the E3 plugs to ensure the plugs are removed prior to the possibility of the plug crown breaking during operation. Definitely call E3 customer service to get their subject matter expertise especially applied to their product and unique situations as a resource.
Kudos to the gentleman conducting this interesting and to the book scientific method utilized in sharing information and your time to help others from a non-biased standpoint where the procedures were the highlights not opinions. Thank you for providing your time which a thank you is the least form of appreciation possibly. The time it takes to produce and share information this clearly, concise and flowing form canโt be understated. Thank you for the opportunity to access justifiable conclusions and share our experiences to help one another. Thatโs what it should always be about, the world would be a better place if this were common practice.
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Project Farm you've shown us a lot of fuel products. would anyone else want to see a shown down of the best fuel additives from every major brand? I use a wide variety of fuel products but without a borescope or taking my engine apart I don't know if I am truly getting my moneys worth. please thumbs up this comment and see if a massive fuel additive show down by Project Farm would help answer a lot of questions. there are a lot of youtube videos of people saying "this is great" with no proof, it may be aย paid review, aย low quality videos 144p video wereย I cant really tells if the product is doing anything, or is outdated due to recent years of PEA and other additives being widely used. a show down of this size would take a lot off work, editing, time, and cost. but I am sure if enough people agree an request it, be willing to share it,ย it may be possible that Project Farm will deliver an answer a lot of questions when people search for fuel additives and what is the best for your specific needs. for cleaning, performance, value, and delivering on productย claims. FUEL ADDITIVE SHOWDOWN - Seafoam, Marvel mystery oil, Heet(red), STP 5n1, Gumout one n done, Royal purple max clean,ย Stabil 360, Redline, lucas deep clean, Amsoil, and techron.
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In the heart of the countryside, where project farms thrive,
A YouTube channel bloomed, where stories come alive.
And amidst the rolling meadows, with nature's gentle touch,
Stood Joe the welder, with a spirit strong and much.
With a worn-out cap upon his head, and calloused hands so tough,
Joe stepped into the frame, bringing skill and knowledge enough.
He wielded his torch with grace, like a poet with his pen,
Crafting metal symphonies, breathing life into denizens of the glen.
With every arc, sparks danced in a mesmerizing display,
As Joe's hands moved swiftly, shaping metal in their own way.
He worked alongside the farmers, capturing their toil and pride,
Unveiling their dedication, with each weld he firmly applied.
With a camera by his side, he filmed the fertile fields,
From dawn's golden embrace to twilight's tender yields.
He showcased the farmers' passion, their struggles and their joys,
Crafting a visual story that inspired both girls and boys.
From repairing rusty gates to mending plows and more,
Joe lent his hands to the land, a skilled troubadour.
He shared the wisdom of his trade, unveiling secrets untold,
As project farms thrived, his presence worth its weight in gold.
Through the lens of his camera, he showcased every detail,
From the gentle wind whispering through fields to the buzzing of a bee's trail.
He immortalized the dedication, the sweat, and the tears,
In each frame, capturing the essence of the farmers' years.
And as the YouTube video played, reaching viewers far and wide,
Joe's hands, they told a story, one that couldn't be denied.
A tale of hard work and perseverance, of community and grace,
Where farmers found solace in his presence, in his welding embrace.
So here's to Joe the welder, the artisan of the land,
Whose contribution to Project Farms, none could understand.
With his torch and his camera, he painted a vivid hue,
Highlighting the essence of farming, and the spirit that shines through.
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Though I won't be using most of the tools you review in my line of work, I always look forward to your uploads.
I'm not sure if electronics repair is an audience or line of work that you'd be willing to test tools for, but I have some suggestions for videos if you do.
Most work on electronics requires a small bunch of particular tools:
Screwdrivers(Qianli, Best, 2UUL, Grip, Wera, or Wiha, with iFixit's drivers being somewhat of a control or "beginner" brand.)
Pry tools(iSesamo, Grip, 2UUl, Best, and Qianli among others)
Tweezers(Most of the same brands mentioned above)
Some sort of heat applicator(some sort of heating pad/heat gun)
And in some cases, some sort of suction cups.
I have been using the same suite of tools for around 6 years, and I am reluctant to use someone else's tools since work can tend to be very delicate. I have never really wanted to branch out to try other brands since I don't exactly know how they perform.
If this is something you'd be interested in testing, I can provide links for most tools that coworkers use as a guideline. I can also provide links to vendors that sell all of the products listed above..
Thanks!
-Matt
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Speeds and feeds are essential when testing drills, use different speeds in different material, stainless typical half the speed of iron, but each drill has its own best speeds and feeds, so using the same data on different brands doesn't give the right idea of which drill is best.
Also splitpoint drill gives less pressure on the drill, you can use less force to drill through. Angle varies from 118 to 140 degree, typical 118 in iron and 140 in stainless, 140 will give less pressure since the lenght of the edge is shorter.
Speeds in metric: 5 meters in stainless, 10 in iron, and double up if coated with titanium etc, and ALWAYS use running coolant in stainless and other exotic materials, or the heat will kill the drill very fast.
If you go to fast the drill will wear out to soon, if you go to slow it will break, you need to find the drills "comfort zone". If right speed can't be reached, go to the nearest lower speed.
Feeds in metric: At least 0.1 mm pr round and up to 0.2, i would start at 0.12-0.15 mm.
Don't buy coated drills if you won't go double speed, you ruin it to fast if not.
Coated drills are less sharper than without coating. (But half the speed)
I do CNC drilling all day long, HSS, solid carbide, inserts and twistdrill with exchangeable tip, brand named ISCAR Sumocham and Tungalloy Drill Meister.
2 very expensive drills can perform very different with the same speeds, you can't compare like this, you need to find each drills best speed.
That said, i like all your videos, they help many people to take the right choice :)
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Ive done this comparison over many years.
1 ethanol will damage OLDER rubber, most newer rubber is designed to tolerate it.
2 ethanol does not damage metal components, the water it attracts does. But If you maintain a sealed fuel system water cant get in.
3 My fuel economy test mule was a 2000 2.2L 5 speed S10. Over the course of 5 years and 50,000 miles I generally saw 3% greater fuel economy on pure gas, but pure gas comes at a 10% price difference locally to me (E10 cheaper per mile). Interestingly enough my economy reccord in that truck was set with E10, I got 35mpg on a 300 mile trip through TX (divining style altered for maximum efficiency).
4 when driven regularly any moisture intrusion is flushed out, and fresh gas is added. Ive put 25,000 miles on my 86 Suburban on E10, and the original carb is no worse off for it, still gets 17.5mpg highway, still starts first bump of the key.
5 even pure gas is going to give you issues on equipment thats used 3 months out of the year and sits with fuel in it the other 9 (cough cough fair weather Harley riders cough)
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WOW, that was a fast one, I did my best to follow, my wife had 255K on her 05 Surburban, when we parked it, burning a qt every 1000 miles, and rear end sings like a canary, its a Texas rust free 2 wheel drive, so it deserves to be a good donor for someone someday if she can find the title, Keep doing what your doing, don't change, I am proud to be a monthly Patreon member of your channel
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I did this same thing, in an old 2.8 ranger, and before it had a lot of top end noise, and just ran very rough overall. Before, I would run diesel through the crankcase, and drive around the block, and emmediatly drain it out in other vehicles. And that did work, but I was concerned about the damage of running the engine without any actual lubrication, but I saw your videos, and many others on youtube, and then just asked around if anyone else did this, and to great avail, they have, and people say it's worth the 32 dollars to do. I chose not to run Lucas, because the old v6 was so high on the odometer (500k clicks!), That I didn't want to run a thick oil. Drove for a week in various conditions, and by the end of the week, she ran like new! Besides a lil blue smoke ( valve seals, now replaced) , it was a whole new engine again( now 550k)
To anyone is questioning this, I would highly recommended it.
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great video, I just watched a WD40 one recently (couldn't pull the trigger and be that gullibleguy) and almost tried it, lol. I always knew sanding it with multiple grits and finishing with a 3000 but wondered about the buffing compound and sealer. I like the 3m and sylvania and will try it on my sons car,,,
i agree with the group, you are no nonsense and actually put a lot of effort and content in.your videos, that is why you have so many followers, great job man, we appreciate you,,,
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This is one of the BEST videos you've done in my opinion and I've watched hundreds!! (Funny this has never come up /suggested videos before!!?? Funny that!!) Anyhow, given you're genius (but crude set up) this was fantastic, not only that you can bet that with a properly tweaked set up "they" could achieve a lot more mpg than you achieved with a first attempt using a non scientific off the shelf parts set up. etc. No wonder they keep these things /new /old technologies under wraps or kill off the inventors!!
You should do a video or set of videos like a mini series on alternative fuels or "experiments" on getting things to run on alternative fuels including camping stoves, petrol(gas)engines, diesel engines, from oil, veg oil, gas, vapours, diesel vapours, hydrogen as I think it's not that difficult to produce in small quantities at the point of combustion so I've heard as John Deer on England have started making Hydrogen powered farm equipment!! Totally environment friendly, cheap and ONLY by product is water and oxygen!
Hydrogen engines are a prime example of green easily implemented energy, as is diesel hybrids running on Used vegetable oil or even not used if it's not environmentally impactful like the SCAM that is ethanol! Anyhow if I can see this as a normal everyday bloke then why don't Governments..
Hmm oil conglomerates and investors by chance!!??
I drive and own 2 BMW diesels here in England BTW! - Don't believe the cr@p they say about them not being green! My 2004 had it's MOT last year and only puts out 1/3rd the emissions allowed for the engine model and age and LESS than most new cars and it hasn't even got a DPF! And my 2007 3 series has the same M47 engine just pre DPF I've owned from new not used it for a few years as ultra low mileage like new so it's my keeper! But the "powers that be" KNOW but don't advertise that DIESEL engines were designed to originally run on vegetable oil! And if they do they put off vIrtually NO HARMFUL MISSIONS! and only slightly more NO2.. so combine that with hybrid electric technology and they'd be LEAGUES GREENER than ANY ELECTRIC CAR Taken into account they need charging from the grid which is coal and gas fired power plants and the environment devastating way they're produced from the lithium batteries to the amount of power and low life span! A BMW diesel engine is good for between 500,000 and 1m miles when maintained properly (main dealer said he's seen two with same engine as mine with 1m+ miles!) And they must STILL pass the emissions test for the yearly MOT!!
Anyway sorry for the essay!! But I'm passionate about this stuff! And the SCAM and CORRUPTION that the likes of Nikola Tesla invented GREEN FREE ENERGY they've covered up and killed to suppress for 120+years!! It beggars belief!! Plus I worked in financial markets and on the "International Petroleum Exchange" future and options, so I know how CORRUPT it is!
Great video genius work you do invaluable!! One if the most valuable and hardworking people and channels on YOUTUBE!!
BIG Thanks from London England ๐๐ช๐๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐
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For those wanting actual stress data, here you go: Average Wood Shear Strength (2x4 = 8 in^2) Surebonder = 191 PSI, Stanley = 188 PSI, Folote = 170 PSI, Arrow = 168 PSI, Ad Tech = 156 PSI, Elmers = 138 PSI, Gorilla = 136 PSI. Average Wood Tensile Strength (1x2 = 2 in^2) Folote = 401 PSI, Stanley = 222 PSI, Gorlilla = 188 PSI, Arrow = 188 PSI, Surebonder = 179 PSI, Ad Tech = 154 PSI, Elmers = 131 PSI. Average PVC Tensile Strength (1/2" PVC cap ~ 3/4" outer diameter) Stanley = 1007 PSI (impressive!), Arrow = 380 PSI, Gorilla = 312 PSI, Surebonder = 274 PSI, Folote = 170 PSI, Ad Tech = 45 PSI, Elmers = 23 PSI. Disclamer: Results may vary since wood is textured and PVC has a low melting point, which can possibly skew the results.
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Fantastic video! Thank you so much, PF!
I purchased a Bauer, 21 pc "Titanium" drill bit set from Harbor Freight in 2017, for a whopping $11 via their 20% off coupon. I have to admit, it's the best set of drill bits I've ever owned. And not ONE of the sub 1/8" bits has snapped. The case they came in is also top shelf. I'll be going back now, to pick up that set of drivers. Thanks to your hard work, and their price, only professionals, and a fool would choose otherwise, imho. Thanks again, Project Farm!
Fyi, I think I've told over a couple dozen people about your channel in the last year or so. Their eyes light up when I describe what you do. Simply due to the massive realization of the amount of time your videos will save them. No more reading mind numbing reviews for hours on end on the web. Although I don't always agree with some of your methods, your channel truly is a stroke of altruistic genius. Thanks again!
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Never heard of Seafoam until I saw this video. About a week ago, a lifter started tapping, oil was a little low, added oil, still tapping. This afternoon, I added 4-6oz of Seafoam, almost instantly (less than 20 seconds) the tapping ceased. The real test will be in the morning with a โcold startโ, but while I used a number of treatments in the past, Iโve never seen anything work this quickly, with no impact on idle or acceleration. Update to follow, but Iโm impressed so far.
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I'm glad you decided to open these packs and see what's inside. Lithium Ion is a family in which there are several specific chemistries. The most common in power tools and most everything else is NMC, Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide. There are numerous variations within NMC. These packs are made with 5 cells in series and larger packs have 2 sets in parallel. It should be noted these 20V batteries are NOT 20V. The NMC chemistry has a nominal cell voltage of 3.6. Some tweaks and variations in the chemistry can get that nearer 3.7. If the actual nominal voltage is 3.63 for example one maker may choose to round that down, another rounds up. Anyhow, 3.6 times 5 = 18V. 3.7 time 5 = 18.5... NOT 20V. Notice DeWalt markets these as "20V max." It could be considered false advertising without "max." Not to be outdone, many others (some of whom DeWalt owns such as Porter Cable) follow suit. It comes from a possible peak in voltage immediately after charging. It's a marketing scam and illegal in some countries. These 20V tools are actually 18V tools. A voltage meter will prove it.
Why do they do it? 20 is bigger than 18 isn't it? It must be better. Never mind Watt hours is a more valuable measurement. It's valuable to know what the maximum safe current is, a value the makers rarely provide. It's like marketing an HD TV antenna. There is no such thing as an HD or digital antenna. It's a piece of metal and doesn't care what the signal is. This was done to get people to buy antennas when they didn't need one.
Lithium Cobalt Oxide, Lithium Manganese Oxide (3.7V), and Lithium Iron Phosphate (3.2V) are a few other common base chemistries. Some modern chemistries permit charging voltages up to 4.4V. 5 of those gives us 22V. Consider tools marketed as 14.4 or 19.2V. Why would they be so specific? Some prefer honesty and accuracy while others prefer trying to upsell you. 3.6 times 4 = 14.4. 19.2V tools may be Lithium Manganese Oxide at about 3.8V per cell but are often NiMH cells, 16 of them in series.
10 cells all in parallel will provide the exact same Watts as 10 cells all in series. One higher current and lower voltage, the other the opposite. But the work done is the same.
Just buy Hitachi, now Metabo HPT.
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Interesting! Does permium gas such as V-Power by Shell contain any ethanol in the USA? If so, I understand why you wonโt get extra mileage. Over here in Europe, there are, as far as I know, two gas companies that do not ad ethanol in their premium gas: BP and Total. Product names: Total Exellium 98 and BP Ultimate 98. I use BP Ultimate 98 in my 2020 Toyota RAV-4 AWD Hybrid and indeed I get more miles. Plus the benefit of no ethanol in these two products. Even in a car designed for E10 (10% ethanol added) like my RAV-4, I still will pay the extra costs as in the long run it will make sure things will be cleaner inside the engine. Your test tells enough about that specific aspect of premium fuels. Technically, E5 MAY, but does not in all cases, have ethanol added. However, BP and Total do not ad ethanol, other than Shell V- Power that does contain 5% ethanol. So I refuse to fill up with Shell V-Power. In all cases, octane number is 98 for premium fuels and all premium fuels are E5. So in fact only BP and Total are effectively E0, because these two do not contain ethanol. Why I do not fill up with just any premium E5 fuel? Because I believe a clean engine pollutes way less than an engine that is contaminated with soot deposits. And most likely zero ethanol premium 98 gas will save money in the long run, so cheaper maintanence and repair bills and better mileage. In short, over here in Europe not all E5 premium fuels are the same.
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A couple things:
First, your comparisons are quite interesting, but also very useful. That input has gone into purchases I've made, such as the TopVision jump starter. Hadn't tried a lithium ion jump starter before, but was willing to give that one a try based on your tests, to have a reasonably cheap and compact jump starter available. Ended up needing to jump start two, four cylinder TDI's (diesels), and that thing did them back to back with about half capacity left. I've used it to run a tire pump where other power sources weren't available too, and am quite happy with the purchase.
Second, I love your format. It seems like so many channels nowadays just ramble on with useless crap before ever getting to the point of the video. Something like, 'Watch my car at the drag strip.' Then they proceed to make what should've been a 30-60 second video take 20-30 minutes, as they video themselves driving all the way there, rambling about unrelated crap and running errands.
When I see one of your videos, I know I can click it and get right to the interesting tests and results. Taking what is obviously hours of work over the course of days sometimes, and condensing it into a typically 10-15 minute video, is pretty awesome. Even more so that you are doing independent tests, not being paid or gifted by companies to review their products.
Bacon grease as oil, and water with Motorkote were great too. I love that you push this stuff to the edge and really test it beyond what many could afford to do.
In short, don't change anything. I think you're doing a great job and appreciate the time you spend testing all these things.
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I really enjoy and learn plenty of useful information from your videos and content. Thank you. I really wish you could have done a simpler test, with mixing only two same weights, and two separate brands such as rotella & mobil1, and maybe two similar brands, but various weights. It was nice to see your comparisons, but the likelihood that a person has that many variations of oils in their supplies is, to me, less likely. It would be more likely, a family with a couple vehicles, would have two or maybe three various oil types. Thank you again, and have a safe and wonderful evening! Cheers!
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There's a different and new product closely related to graphite, called Graphene. Its characteristics are supposedly so game changing that it's use will be widespread in numerous industries, especially as they continue to find ways to manufacture it cheaper and cheaper. You can buy some on Amazon. It will greatly reduce engine oil heat and thus, engine heat, and thus wear . It will be used in electronics, circuitry,all types of batteries, electricity conduction, as an additive to concrete, paint, and many many many more things. Again, it's a game changer. Its supposedly 1 atom thick, but most uses double layer the atoms. Seems to enhance it's properties the best, even compared to if you add more layers. Research the stuff. I would test it if I were you in the same manner you did here.
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Great job on this one!
I love your load bank... I have like a 100amp load bank, that is handy, no question, but that thing... I might have to have that.....
We have some NOCO's laying around at work, so I was very curious to see that.... I sorta wanna buy one of these, so, pretty good timing on this video....
After watching this, it'd be hard to not buy the Gooloo 4000....
I see on Amazon there's a NOCO GB150 also....
My whole thing with these devices is, if you're gonna have it in your truck, 75% of it is, you have to BELIEVE it will work.... So the little compact one, yeah, I'm in the middle of nowhere... Is it really going to work??? Ehhh. Get the better one... If I had the GB150, If I gotta charge my phone, restart my truck, whatever... I feel like, it'll work....
Great test. Great video. Great job on this one....
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G'day,
Yay Team !
Back in 1982 when my father died I inherited his 1978-vintage Coleman "Inflate-All 90", a 12-Volt DC Cigarette-Lighter Plug-In, which sucks amout 65 to 70 Watts...., it claimed to be good for 90 PSI.
I was using it to pressurise my 1940-vintage Wormald Bros. Simplex130-Litre "Airport Firefighter" which has a 30-Litre Air-Reservoir at 100 PSI....
The Pump has a Ringless Piston, with a Felt Disc as an Air-Filter atop the Cylinder-Head/Inlet-Valve Assemby.
To both A) cool it down, and B) prolong it's Operating Lifetime, while C) boosting it's Delivery-Pressure to the required 100 PSI...; I took to administering 2 Drops of Olive Oil onto the Air-Filter every 3 minutes..., that way the Piston-Cylinder Seal is constantly renewed, ebbing & flowing on a Constant-Loss system, which contrives to also lubricate the Big-End Bearings & Gudgeon-Pin vis Splash - with what blows down past the Piston's Skirt.
It works..., messily but effectively.
To see it, title-search my Videos for,
"Solar Powered Fire-Extinguisher...!"
These days, after a couple of cheap & nasty Chinese Units, I have an
AC +PRO, 12V, 140 PSI, 25 LPM "Tornado"
Which my son gave me for Fathers' Day last year..., he has them in his Auto-Electrical Workshop's Front Counter Display for $120...
It claims 1minutes: 15 sec. to 15 PSI on a175/70 R 13 (Small Car)...,with 3:15 to 30 PSI..., 2 min : 30 to 15 PSI on a 215/60 R 16..., (Large Car)with 5 :15 to 30 PSI...
For a Large 4WD 31 x 10.5 x 15 to go up to 30 PSI, it claims 10 Minutes.
It seems to work.
Have a good one.
;-p
Ciao !
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Everything you did on this video believe it or not I've been doing to my vehicles for the last five or six years and I have had no problems with those products it has increase my 2014 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab from 17 miles per gallon on the highway and believe it or not and I have a video I am getting 25.6 up to 27.8 miles per gallon I like 75 miles per hour speed limit on the highway and I am getting 18.1 18.9 up to 19.3 miles per gallon in the city and that is a tremendous change and fuel economy on my 2014 5.7 Hemi engine and I use nothing but mobile one synthetic oil and I am registered with them because since I bought my truck brand spanking you my first oil change I use Mobil 1 full synthetic versus Royal Purple Royal Purple is a thick oil and it takes longer to reach the cylinders than the mobile one and the Mobil 1 full synthetic for my truck under normal driving conditions it protects up to 15,000 miles but because I only work 10 minutes from my house when I reach 15,000 miles I still have 47% up to 61% of Life on my oil but I still change it at 15,000 miles with the Mobil 1 oil filter and I always put Lucas fuel additive into my gas tank at every fill-up I buy it by the gallon at Walmart that's where I get better prices at and every oil change I take the vacuum hose off of the brake booster and I put about 1 to 2 oz of seafoam and it helps keeps my valves and cylinder heads clean and believe it or not when I change my oil at 15000 miles it doesn't look wore out I've never done it and I always keep my receipts when I purchase my oil to do my oil change but I think I can go 30,000 miles or 25,000 miles with my oil because I Drive Normal I don't hot rod my truck and I don't push it to its limits and I take care of my vehicles but because my truck recommends all to be changed at 15,000 miles I change my oil although at 15000 miles I still have at least 50% of oil life I still change it because mobile one if you register with them and you buy their products they offer a 300,000 mile protection on your engine on internal lubricated parts so if anything happens to my engine they will replace or rebuild my engine free of charge so as long as I keep maintenance on my vehicle and do my part I don't have to worry about my engine for 300,000 miles because even though I bought an extended warranty for my bed go up to a hundred thousand miles I still have protection under the mobile one warranty if you use their product the way that they recommended and you register with them and you save all your receipts and you record your mileage when you change your oil like I do that's how I cover my ass and I take a video of me changing my oil on the old phone that I don't use anymore but just got a memory card and I record my oil changes to prove that I have done the maintenance on my vehicle in case they try to come up with some scam and not cover my engine and I always use my debit or credit card when I purchased my oil and I save my receipts and I also take pictures and video of my receipts that way I can protect myself and show that I have done my part to 100% And to be honest with you I change my oil 1000 miles before it hits 15,000 miles so I change it every 14,000 miles to be honest with you that way I'm changing it before the 15000 miles and they can I say too much about it because I'm doing the maintenance before my truck tells me it needs to be maintained or that he needs an oil change and I use their air filters fuel filters and everything else that they sell and I also do the same thing to my wife's car and we get great gas mileage no hesitation on acceleration and is worth the investment nice video I was not surprised that the lifters weren't locking the way they were at first and I knew the what the results were going to be before I saw the whole entire video thank you for sharing the video with this you may want to do that a couple of times to your truck and drive it with the seafoam in your engine for about 10-15 miles it won't hurt your engine and you'll get a lot of that carbon off of your pistons and valves and lifters and pushrods and rocker arms have you have a much cleaner Engine with more horsepower and you'll probably get another hundred thousand miles out of it if you keep doing that on every oil change until the oil comes out almost clean then he know that you have cleaned to the fullest the internal lubricated parts of your engine they're for extending the life of your engine and the same thing to the transmission and the rear end you'd be surprised of the results and my truck only has 26000 miles and I've already done three oil changes I did the first one at 3,000 miles I did not get a second one and 17000 MI and I did the third one at 25500 miles before I went to Mexico I just like to have fresh oil when I travel out of town to Mexico and I have made it back home and my oil still has 93% oil life so in another 4,000 miles I will change my oil again and then go back to the regular 14,000 miles oil change and I changed my coolant on my truck twice a year right before summer and right before winter along with the thermostat and I change my spark plugs every two years regardless of a mileage and how long they will last they say the spark plugs can go a hundred thousand miles I don't care although my truck has 16 spark plugs because it's a hemi with the eco which means when you're on the highway at highway speeds one side of the engine turns off and cylinders and it's running off of four cylinders to give you better fuel mileage and when that side overheats it kicks into the other side and that side starts working but as soon as you accelerate all 8 cylinders kick in with all 16 spark plugs for better gas mileage I just rather replace them every two years like my father does with his vehicles
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HVAC engineer here. Thank you for stressing the importance of proper airflow. Contrary to belief, the primary function of a basic 1" filter is not to purify the air, but to keep the blower wheel and evaporator coil clean. You can only do so much in a 1" filter to purify the air. When you use a finer media, you must compensate by increasing surface area, and you just can't do much of that in a 1" filter. The more restrictive 1" filters will negatively impact the capacity and efficiency of your HVAC system, and they can even damage the equipment. If you want to get serious about air purification, you should have a professional install one of the 4" or 5" or bag type filters, an electronic filter, or a stand-alone filtration system. With the thicker filters, as you pointed out, you can sufficiently increase the surface area to use a fine media and still flow the required amount of air.
As always, great test!
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My Tesla Model Y is recommended 40 psi, The Tesla tech set it at 42, some run 45. He used the Milwaukee that you demonstrated. I watched this because I was thinking of buying one. However.... I went to check what type Makita battery my driver used, only 12v, and one of the batteries is toast (with intermittent use this is a common problem. If I could I'd have my small drill and driver on cords.) Now I'm thinking, foot pump, or 12v plugged into the car. (Adding a new battery type, charger, etc.. is just adding unnecessary complexity and another weak link. )
I've had foot pumps and bicycle pumps. They wear out, the foot pump frames always get distorted and bent, all bicycle pumps overheat and lose their seals. (I used to have an air pressure water 2-liter bottle rocket project for my students. They could destroy a bike pump in less than an hour. None of them are made very well. And save your money, a good $15 one was every bit as good and a bit more durable than a $135 one. Good video. Thanks
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Natural gas or propane have long been substituted in automotive AC systems, since cars used R-12. They work okay, and considering the car is full of flammable gasoline? Not much different than a fuel leak, in terms of safety. There's simply not that much gas in there.
The problem lies, in that if you don't put a warning label that is prominent inside the engine bay? Saying exactly what type of gas you switched to? A service tech might put in the proper R134a on top of the other gas, making a system that behaves very differently. Up to and including allowing liquid to flow into the compressor, destroying it's valves. That is a very expensive fix, as opposed to putting more refrigerant in. In my experience as a retired AC guy, that is the #1 risk with these products.
In the final analysis? R134a simply isn't that expensive. Use what the car was designed for, to get your best performance in all temperatures.
If your car is so old, it wants R-12? I'd still recommend using R134a-- it'll work, at about 70-80% performance as R-12, and that is what a "regular" (gas station) technician would likely put in anyway. Converting those old systems to full-on R134a usually just wants a different orifice, to gain a few %.
Project Farm: VERY informative video-- i'd give you a 10 out of 10, here-- better than some "professional" car AC videos!
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The results for Panasonic, EBL and IKEA all reflect my experience. IKEA is outright the best value because they can be had so cheap.
However, there is a test not done that I can give some experience on: parasitic drain, self discharge and storage.
EBL does absolutely awful with storage. They are generally half drained a few weeks after storage, and are often completely dead after a month in a low drain device such as a Wiimote. On the flip side, a Panasonic in a Wiimote which has low standby drain will still have juice after a year, even though itโs rated (and delivers) less mah of storage capacity.
IKEA, however, also does great like the Panasonic, but not AS great. Eneloops have provided, in my experience, the most superior self discharge and trickle drain performance, even though they have the smallest capacity of all rechargables I use.
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Hey Todd! I'd love to see a video on the strongest string you can buy. Personally, I only care about string/thread/cord that is less than 1mm. I've tried a few. There are a bunch of options, kevlar, silk, nylon, mono and non-monofilament composition. The claimed weight ratings are fricken hard to validate... and of course you can't even do a decent job without buying a much of them and meticulously testing each one in different different environment and under different stress condition, e.g., wet, hot, abrasion, shock, etc. And, of course, a 0.9 mm strand on one thing may be stronger than a 0.7mm strand of another thing... but that's apples and oranges. And... how much do various strings stretch vs hold their length. If only there were some super-brilliant dude out there who do this right! :-)
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It is VERY DIFFICULT for me to believe what I just watched. Oh, don't get me wrong. I don't doubt your methods or test results. What I find INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT TO BELIEVE is that you actually picked up the rear end of a (rusted out. LOL...) Ford Ranger pick up truck with ONE Stainless Steel cable tie. The second thing I find difficult to believe is that they are so inexpensive. I used Ty-rap cable ties for years (furnished by my employer) and did not know they were a dollar each (give or take (+-)).
Unfortunately, I don't buy Chinese goods if it is at all possible. I believe in made in America. And, I think China gave us CoronaVirus on purpose (germ warfare.) That's my opinion. Everyone is entitled to his own. So, almost anything "Harbor Freight" is an instant NO for me.
I signed up to support you on Patreon based on this video alone. This one video is worthy of supporting your endeavors.
Ok, all that being said, Let me, with the utmost respect for you, say thank you for not using profanity on your You Tube channel. Profanity is a mark of low intelligence and even lower morals. I know, absolutely, just from viewing over the last year that I can (and do) absolutely trust you.
If I were the CEO of a Fortune 500 company, you'd be my second in command. If you were running for President, you'd get my vote.
Once again, I sincerely Thank You! You are a role model for honesty and integrity. I admire and respect you sir.
John
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Listen Todd, I just really want to tell you how much I appreciate your videos, because even though, you are living in USA, I live in Lithuania, and you would think that there would be quite a difference in the subject of "what item is the best" but the matter of the fact is even though I live in such a small and remote country from US, the things you test and find the best one in your videos, applies to my country as well. We have here dewalt, millwaukee and many other brands here, and the degreaser you tested - I deliberately went to one of my biggest home improvement centers of my city and I searched for al; the brands you tested, and I managed to find more than half of them here as well. Your videos, the testing that you do and go trough the trouble of, pays off literally in universal manner. Your videos are invaluable to everyone who lives in any country! I am extremely happy that I came by your channel, you are a golden man!
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Here's some strange feedback. The way you address your audience is very warm and inviting with an authoritative use of the diaphragm (you talk with a bigger boom in your voice). Every time I watch your videos, I initially watch for the science and find myself staying because of how easy it is to listen to you. When you sign off on your videos, you always come off humble and earnest. I never feel the twinge of "LIEK COMMENT AND SUBSCRIBE" demanding me to robotically do as the content creator commands. It feels more like helping out a friend.
When you spend a significant amount of time subscribed to a channel, you begin to hear the little patterns in their voice and some of the irksome qualities come out. Sometimes I notice their voice inflects upwards or their S sounds come out too harsh. Other times I get a personal joy of hearing dialectical differences, not only from folks in Australia, New Zealand, the UK, and other parts of Europe but in Canada and America. As someone who is keyed into language, tone, and cadence; I cannot help but admire that in all these years I have nothing bad to say about your channel.
All of this to say, I think your script writing and method of addressing your audience is great.
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I used to be a NiMH battery engineer at the company that invented and patented NiMH technology. I have tested a TON of batteries (NiMH, LiIon, Alkaline, PbA, LiFePO4, etc...) and try to post my results in the form of reviews on Amazon, Tenergy, and other sites. I can say with confidence that Eneloop batteries have excellent self-discharge rates, and self-discharge is provided by the separator (the material between anode and cathode) at the expense of other performance metrics. For most of my uses, that performance is happily sacrificed for the wonderful self-discharge performance. I have a solar battery backup and grid tie inverter on my home (BeaconPower M5.) I was using some gold-peak 100Ah NiMH batteries on that system for a couple years. I discovered that the system would spend the first several hours of sunlight every day topping off the NiMH batteries before dumping surplus energy to the grid. When only using lead acid, my system started dumping to the grid after only a few minutes of sunlight. So, although NiMH energy density is much better than lead acid, the benefit is only realized in certain applications.
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This is why I'm a huge fan of PF! We need these tests to separate the facts from fiction when it comes to bolds claims made by manufacturers. I was especially interested to see the LLT screwdriver, which has had so much hype surrounding it. I'm very glad that it performed well, and has lived up to its claims. Seems like it was very properly thought through, especially when it comes to its specific application, working on PC's.
Todd, you are the man we can count on to objectively present the data and help make informed decisions. Hell, I've made purchases influenced by tests done on this channel. Recommended products based on these reviews. and watched your videos before making decisions on what to get... I guarantee this channel has helped so many people! And your model of buying everything yourself, not selling out, and not pushing products that are handed to you is the gold standard of how things should be done here on Youtube. Excellent work, I'm a subscriber for life, keep doing what you're doing!! Thanks so much! I wish you a long and prosperous future in all of your endeavors.
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Hey, I love your videos and I love how you present a question (hypothesis), test, display the results, and establish a conclusion. I am an engineer in the auto industry and I've looked into 12V air compressors and I'm happy to share a few things that I hope you find useful.
1. The Harbor Freight and Husky air compressors look strikingly like the Viair air compressors I've seen in OEM applications: https://www.viaircorp.com/ What I have seen air compressors used for kind of goes beyond your typical tire inflation, but it's neat to see convergence when it comes to problems, i.e. what's the best way to cheaply get compressed air. Both of those compressors look like they are top quality for severe service work for someone who wants to air up quickly. For example, big off road tires air up/down.
2. As a chassis engineer, I was a little dissappointed that the "standard tire" wasn't this: https://www.astm.org/Standards/E1136.htm although I suppose the manufacturers can pick whatever they want.
3. For maximum performance, I would recommend Oasis: http://www.oasismfg.com/ They have by far the best 12V air pumps I have found. I would be happy to be proven wrong but, so far, they are the only continuous duty 12V air pump manufacturer that I have found. They are expensive but their customer service has been very good. For the engineers reading this, I would recommend because they are one of the few places who will give CAD envelopes for packaging.
Bonus: 4. I just want to add that the fastener videos (thread locker, penetrating oil, etc.) have been very entertaining and I have brought up your videos to my colleagues in our fastener testing lab. I'm hoping that we can test some of the things that you've tested to corroborate your results.
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I already had the newish Ryobi Extended Reach 3/8", (yet, still looking at the 1/4" version - less torque, but more speed), but I still went ahead & picked up this Makita CXT, (LARGELY based on this video). Curious as to how the Makita 12v stacks up to it's 18v brother, (performance specs appear identical, so not sure what, if any difference). Also, would love to see you test some of the extended reach & brushless ratchets, (Ryobi, Rigid, DeWalt & Milwaukee High speed, as well). LOVE the channel & GREATLY APPRECIATE ALL YOU PROVIDE us subs. Thank you! ๐๐ผ
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Great Job Sir....
I couldn't help it, I just starting laughing during the bug guts testing...... I had to stop the video.... I'm imagining the process for applying bug guts to your new glass panels.... Heh heh heh heh heh!!!!! omg... I don't even wanna know....
But I do admire your dedication to purity & integrity in your highly scientific research & testing Sir.... I do.... I salute you.... Heh heh heh!!!
Hey, I can poke fun... If you have a Road King Classic with a windshield on it, you're gonna spend plenty of hours cleaning dead bugs.... A little spin along Lake Michigan, back in the day, in the evening??? Keep your mouth closed, or you'll get bugs in your mouth..... And now down here, holy crap, the first year I was here, I took a spin down Tamiami Trail during love bug season.... Uhhh, that's what we call a mistake, Sir... That was a tactical blunder..... omfg, step one was to take a plastic vinyl wrap squeegee and scrape off the outer layer of dead bugs..... Yummy.
So yeah, great job by you Sir.
I have liked Rain-X over the years.... I do like a paint sealant type product called F11 also... If you just "wax" the windshield with it, it works good... My only complaint is it starts to turn a little frosty or hazy after a month or so, and you have to re apply.....
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Naah... not at all wastefull. There are places, as romania, for example, where there is so much dirt and dust on the roads, and not only...where air filter and fuel filter are better done at half the advertised change intervals, than any other place. I come from romania, live in austria, and have to say : if you care about your pocket/ wallet, do take care of when you change oil and fuel filters, depending of place, and conditions you might drive in, than suggestions from mannufacturers. Keep up the good work. I see you are a straight up man. I appreciate that. God speed friend. God speed.
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Great Job on this one Sir.
Now, I could care less about battery powered sanders... I have a few plug in ones, and I'm not sure I ever thought "Gee, I wish this was cordless".....
That being said, I KNEW you would bring something interesting to the table, and bring measurable metrics to something that, off the top of my head, I didn't think would be measurable. Of course, I was thinking of board smoothness, so.... that would be my slight nitpick with your test... A sander could leave an undesirable rough finish with gouges & defects, but theoretically "score better" by removing a greater weight of wood.... but I digress.
So, the 3 I have are an old Black & Decker square quarter sheet... A Makita round Random orbit (because of course I do)... And a Bosch round Random orbit.....
In my humble and very non-scientific opinion, the B&D square one is garbage.... The Makita is pretty good... The Bosch is VERY good...... The Bosch is actually a little too aggressive sometimes, would be the only nitpick, so, if I'm trying to just do a light sand, with fine paper, and I'm worried about going through the finish, I use the Makita, for it's seemingly "milder" action.....
This is the danger of watching your videos... As a confirmed Tool Junkie, now I'm sitting here thinking "hmmm, a Bosch battery powered sander... maybe I need that..."
Anyways, Great Job Sir.
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The more I watch this channel, the more I love it.
Previously I knew what penetrating oil to use when I removed some rusty bolts and nuts, when I worked on drum brakes I knew what safety glasses to use, and when I removed some scratches from the clear coat on my dad's car, I knew what polish to use.
Yesterday I was going to work with another project, but I didn't had any torx bits, so I said "hmm, probably Project Farm has a video about it", and surprise surprise, it's just been uploaded!!
I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your channel, it's been very helpful, and I think it deserves more subs, because this kind of content is invaluable
From Mexico, all I can say is thank you, greetings!
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Heres a few video ideas for you sir if you haven't done them yet: the best quality of each brand of gasoline, the best brand of screw gun philips bits, which brand has the best quality paint brushes, the best most durable disposable paper towels, the best disposable latex/non latec gloves, the best work gloves, the best multi surface cleaner, the best tire shine for a car, best brand of car interior spray bottle or auto wipes, car window cleaner, car soap, best potting soil, best spray paint bran. I'm thinking of other ideas to add to this as well :) you do an amazing job of testing and presenting your results! Its always a great pleasure to watch your videos! Thank you very much sir!
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Thank you,I saw it all,,,,Very helpful and to the point,I feel as if I have an edge over other brand names, I subscribed,Great test ,Thanks again,My bark isn't going to be bigger than my bite any longer ๐
!!!!!! TIME TO buzz off
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Man !! Absolutely Great Videos, Content, + Information !
I Wish I found your channel along time ago.
Almost every single purchase I make I compare price, specs, + reviews, with as much info I can get.
You not only do that, and more,...but you do it for everyone to get tons of info, in one spot, And you do it for tons of various products.
I scanned your channel videos + there are tons of products that I have and will buy, so ALL of your work is Greatly Appreciated, and will be put to good use.
I Love the amount of info, detail, variety of products, the amount of products in each comparison, the non biased results + opinions, and the products in each comparison seem to be the products that everyone would be looking to buy, and wondering about.
Great Videos !
Great Dedication !
Great Information !
Great Job !
And,....A Big Thank You !
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Ok, I've watched a handful of your videos (I think it all started with Seafoam), but I've never subscribed, just clicked on your videos that were suggested by YouTube. That is until today, or until I met Billy Ray. William made me a subscriber. He showed me the light. I've never seen a man with such a beautiful, NAY, GLORIOUS, mullet thrash so hard, and all in the name of science, too. Consider me subscribed, my friend.
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Just subscribed to the channel, thanks to the "YouTube suggestion".
Personally I have used most of these products, except for the royal purple.
Every single time; especially on bolts ๐ฉ that are rusty and haven't been touched for 20 to 50+ years, the Kroil has always been the best. Especially when the bolts were subject to high heat levels for extended periods of time over decades. Example: a 36 inch flange in a refinery that was originally installed in 1950. We had to pull it apart in 2013. It was under use all the time, except when the refinery was shut down for routine maintenance. It is a very hot line , carrying steam for a unit. The pipes are exposed to the elements.
We kroiled the bolts for a maintenance schedule to be inspected for any defects or excessive wear. I kroiled them when they were hot ๐ฅ, but the kroil just vaporized, and I learned, not flammable. After the unit was off, I used a hand wire brush on the exposed threads, and kroiled them. The following day, every single bolt removed without galling. I was amazed!
A similar flange in the same area that another crew was working on was using pb blaster. Their results were not very good.
Thanks for the video!!!
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Thank you very much again, for taking the time to help us in our trip to guess which oil should we buy.
Obviously the ppl. that take their cars to a quick oil change shop, never know WTHeck they pour in to the engine, many times they not even pay attention to the manufacturer book, asking for some type of oil and how much oil it takes, a lots of times the owner goes for the sign that say quick oil change, (4 quarters and a filter), THE CHEAPEST WAY it means they just poured on 4 quarters instead of 5 quarters.
Which is in fact garbage recycled oils, not even the standards based oils...
To me it makes a huge difference when you know what you do in an oil change to your ๐s cars...
Watching this guy doing all of this his work, all kinds of testings, measurements, etc. etc. etc... it really relaxes my brain, โjust this part word to watch the video, thank you very much... But then I learn, saves me money, gives me peace of mind and assures me ๐ that am doing the correct thing, after I did my own testings:
๐ฅ+๐ฅ= ๐นrun ๐ปbuu>> ๐๐จ๐ฉ
and researches ๐งดยฐ๐งซ-๐ง <๐คฏ= ๐ค
No doubt, there is no others videos with all this much work and entertainment to watch. I appreciate the effort, time and value you put out for free to our enjoingment ๐+๐+๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ...
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Making a product with more technology and necessity, without science, means more cost to the consumer to have it fixed as well ! A simple headlight cover should NOT cost thousands of dollars to replace! A headlight LENS or cover, does NOT have ANY effect on the workings of the car, despite what some car companies want you to tell you!
Project Farm, thank you for sharing this video. You also mean, "which of these products works the best, TEMPORARILLY," right ! ? Oxidation isn't easily done away with, even on headlights, "it seems." Thus companies can seemingly and (only?) supply the consumer ( joe shmo ), a less hazardous, and less effective product that the result is ONLY temporary.
What I found out, by using some products, and from others that used the same and similar products that claim to restore or help clean headlights, is that the effect is just that... and EFFECT ! It's not a fix, and the results do not last. Of course, most companies don't want the consumer to know that! Plus, my comments alone will not stop the masses from buying such products, in the hopes of clearing up those foggy headlight lenses with just one application. I guess it's all about money and knowledge; the haves and the have nots ?
NOTHING material lasts forever, and one should not buy a product, just because it claims to do something, even AFTER following directions to a T. Plus, WHO has ALL those tools and supplies ? Maybe auto manufactures should consider headlight COVERS to be separate, and thus easily changed out ! ? But I guess that won't happen, because they would loose money from all their repair jobs !
Project farm, thank you for in one way, proving my comments.
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New sub, so apologies if you have tested thisโฆ you kind of covered this on your second test. My big issue with multitools is the plier function, Iโve had several (more than a few, 6 or 7) collapse on use. I mean trying to get a bolt or whatever to turn, clamp, or cutting a large wire, and the handle snaps, collapsing and sometimes pinching your skin. I am not talking about stressing them to point of failure, just a test of a strong hand squeeze. Iโm 6โ, and a former gymnast so thereโs a chance my grip might (as in who knows) be stronger than average. Iโm not talking a two handed squeeze, just one hand, and a very strong squeeze that would be applied while trying to either cut, clamp or remove a stuck bolt.
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Wera make excellent quality stuff, but financially most of their stuff only makes sense for things like aerospace, where you need stuff to be certified to exacting specifications, six-sigma type stuff, zero foreign object and so on. Kinda like how you can go and buy a box of machine screws for ยฃ10, but if you want top grade, fully certified and batch tested then you'll easily pay 10 times that. Makes sense for those industrial uses, but pointless for the home-gamer. I have a few Wera tools and they are great, but I was treating myself!
For everyday use, I use Dewalt and Bosch - I find the quality of their bits is good enough for what I do - they do wear, they do snap, but just like with drill bits it's a hell of a step up from the "giant set of things that fit in your drill for around ยฃ50" blow-moulded cases you get at the big box stores.
Good video as always!
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Great job on this one.... We get Panduit at work, and I kinda liked them... They really didn't test out super great.... Hmmm....
By the way, You're a bad influence.... Stainless steel cable ties???.... How have I lived my whole life without these????
I was intrigued by the UV exposure... Our "usage case", if you will, was to put the zip tie on something outside, and hope it held... Which the black ones did far far better than the white ones.....
You'll have to forgive me, but the test I envisioned was. put the zip tie around a 50 pound weight (or whatever you decide), and then put it outside, and see if it was still holding the 50 pounds a year later.... Although from your testing, it seems like the outdoor rated ones certainly would have....
I give you a lot of credit. You climb on top of your shop, place a bunch of cable ties, and then retest after a year... That's dedication...
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After watching this excellent video, I did a bit of google research on Slick 50, and I found the following press release from the FTC, dated July 16, 1996. I have included relevant quotes from the article below.
https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/1996/07/quaker-state-ads-slick-50-are-false-and-misleading-ftc-charges
July 16, 1996
The Federal Trade Commission has charged Quaker State - Slick 50, Inc., the manufacturer of Slick 50, the best-selling auto engine treatment in the U.S., with making false and unsubstantiated advertising claims
Slick 50 is the most recent in a series of FTC cases challenging allegedly deceptive ad claims for oil additives or high octane fuel.
The FTC complaint also specifically charges that Slick 50 did not have adequate substantiation for its advertising claim
The complaint also alleges that the company did not have adequate substantiation for its advertising claims that one treatment of Slick 50 continues to reduce wear for 50,000 miles and that it has been used in a significant number of U.S. government vehicles.
Finally, the complaint challenges ads stating that โtests proveโ the engine wear claims made by Slick 50. In fact, according to the FTC complaint, tests do not prove that Slick 50 reduces engine wear at start up, or by 50%, or that one treatment reduces engine wear for 50,000 miles.
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Thanks for doing this one!
As an odd coincidence. I am preparing to do nearly the same test here. As I started this video, I was opening up a shipment of six rolls. It would have been eight, but two rolls are on back order. Plus, we have two here already. So eventually, it will be a test of ten part numbers.
This is all industrial 'double-coated' tape, and averages about 4 mils thick (adhesive only). Some with a 'carrier' (layer sandwiched between two adhesive layers), and some without.
We have a specific product use for this, and will narrow our test to that product only. Smooth PVC Sign board, to a denim like material. All of the tape, is rated as permanent (not intended to be removed), and for the outdoors.
Wish me luck!
๐ ๐
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I've been watching you channel for a while now. I found you because of some the SeaFoam and other additive tests you ran. To tell you the truth, I really don't care about most of the products you test, but I still watch your videos. I'm honestly very impressed at the experimental rigor you have. I appreciate that you quantify everything you do so you're not just saying "Brand X seems better than Brand Y, even when it's a product that you admit you personally use. I've been impressed for quite a while, but I had to pause the video to leave this comment when I saw your testing rig for the jack handles. I don't know if you have any helpers to design the experiments, but whether it's all you or someone else, the ingenuity is fantastic. I also applaud you for not taking on any video sponsors. Honestly, even if you did, I'd trust that you'd maintain your objectivity, but it's still admirable that you haven't gone after that additional paycheck. I have no idea how much of your total income comes from farming vs this channel, but I really hope that our views help compensate you for the admirable work you do in these videos. Keep it up!
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Really, despite losing in strength tests, I'd say that TREX is the best, just going off of the data, alone... Adhesion is paramount for duct tape, as it's MEANT to be used; however, in the ways it's otherwise used, strength is an important key... And both strength tests show Gorilla surpasses TREX... But only just. The difference is so minor that, really, the intense adhesion (Literally doubling Gorilla's adhesion) more-than makes up for... When coming to a conclusion in a "Best of three" examination, sure, Gorilla wins against TREX (with 3M winning in a lateral strength test, which isn't... that impressive of a feat when looking at its other losing stats...); however, as a scientist, you're taught to gauge values and numbers based on significance and how it affects the whole. Simple win/lose scenarios don't cut it when comparing two objects like this. You must look at every variable and weigh to what degree these variables are important to the object, and just how much these wins/losses impact the object...
Honestly, going off of this data and nothing else? I'd choose TREX over Gorilla.
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Great channel, great content, great execution of experiments. You do a wonderful job. You are quickly becoming my all time favorite channel!
While I have your attention I will throw it all out there at once instead of leaving multiple comments. I apologize for the length ahead of time.
I like that you do not want any sponsorship type money to suggest that any kind of money has skewed your tests or "opinions", HOWEVER, you deserve to be compensated for the great service and unbiased testing that you provide as well as money spent on products, test mules, consumables, time, etc! I know that many of use would give money (or more money) via your Patreon account or buy more Merchandise from your Merch link if we could but what you could condider is getting a advertising account set up with various online retailers (Amazon being the obvious example) so that if your viewers are enticed to buy a product that you have tested you could provide a link to each one in each video description to the product on the retail site. For each person that buys a product from one of your links you would get a small amount from.
Personally I would be happy to use your links exclusively any time I purchased a product that you give a link you link to both at initial purchase as well as any time in the future that I was going to purchase it again. I feel that most of the people who watched your video would do the same. I also feel that zero percentage of people would think that it would ever have any effect of any kind of bias. In fact, I think people would jump at the chance to further support you using this opportunity.
I just found and subscribed to your channel not long ago and have already bought products after reviewing your tests and coming to my own conclusion of the benifits because of your channel. I have looked for links when I bought them to see if I could use them to help support you. The products never cost any more for consumers to use your link. The only thing is that one seller might charge less or shipping might be more or take longer, etc but we as consumers can always shop around for the best deal and deal with figuring out the compromises. I sincerely feel that there will be very little to zero downside to you doing this and it could very possibly turn out to be very beneficial to recovering some of your costs.
I think a comparison on air tool lube/oil would be interesting. Maybe it would be popular enough to do a whole series Many people don't realize that proper use of air tool oil can greatly effect performance and longevity of air tools. I just read a comment on a DIY type article that he uses a lube from BND called Quantum Blue (I can't find it. Maybe it's not available any more?) and how many other oils would not allow as much longevity. Watching your channel has opened my eyes to just how much of a difference there can be between products claiming to be for the same purpose. If there was a longevity test that would make a difference I would guess an air die grinder, impact, impact hammer, etc would be a great test mediums to gauge the oils ability to handle the speed, load, ability to resist water (since compressed air produces condensation that normally makes it into many air tools due to consumers either now realizing the fact, performance/longevity detriments and/or feel that the investment in a quality air/water seperation and drying process is worth the cost), heat, etc. Needed to adequately protect the tools from wear.
In addition, I think that a comparison of air tool lube to other lubricants would be great. An engine running with only Air tool Lube? Air tool lube is largely over-looked and only used by those who use air tools... and the majority don't use it properly, often enough or at all! So it should be a decent general informational subject to bring to people's attention as well.
Or, maybe air tool oil/lube is not as important as the tool makers and tool oil manufacturers want you to believe. Maybe run tests without any air tool oil and see if there is any actual damage occurring during various conditions on various types of tools?
In addition, the price of air tool oil have a large variance. Are there other oils that would be better, a good substitute in a pinch or could be use air tool oil for other applications that would perform better than most products that claim to be the perfect product?
Are there other oils/lubricants that has a low enough viscosity to allow the tools to perform better, last longer between applications, resist water contamination in the air supply better, etc.?
I feel that an oil/lube for general consumers would gain the most use from a product that provides the best wear protection, performance, resistance to water in the air all while lasting the greatest length of time between application.
Ok, I will hold back other ideas for future comments or maybe in an email? Thanks again for all that you do. Keep up the great work!
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Hi. My adventures with spark plugs. One friday afternoon, I left the place and prepare to drive back home, 100 kms with my Kawasaki 125KMX. The NGK spark plug was burned, but I knew the spark plug was the same on Renault 18 and Renault Fuego. I then walked to the nearest garage and bought one Renault (yes they made their own spark plugs) spark plug and installed it on the motorbike. It was on par with NGK in terms of performance and reliability.
Years after, my Peugeot 505 received an aftermarket LPG, and the installer put 4 Bosch spark plugs. They were burned in less than 1000 kms. I then installed NGK and encountered no problem at all.
Last year, I wanted to change the 4 spark plugs on my Suzuki V-Strom, and remembering the adventure with the 125KMX, I checked what was the car equivalent and it was the Ferrari F355 Maranello. I went to a local spare parts supermarket, a young reseller asked me what I was looking for. I answered I wanted 4 spark plugs for my Ferrari F355 Maranello and I will change the other row of cylinder next month. The round eyes of the clerk made my day !
Anyway, NGK Iridium is my best choice for my motorbike. My car is a diesel.
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Finally subscribed to your very useful channel. Keep it up!
I'd like to share a somewhat contrarian view.
1. I am not surprised that Wera's bits are the strongest, but I am not convinced shearing strength is all that important. In practice, were you to apply the kind of torque achieved by any of these bits, you might damage the head of the screw, and thus make removing it a pain. I remind everyone that the specification for Philips screws and bits is what it is to induce cam out, i.e., to restrict the amount of torque applied to them, lest the screw's head be ruined or the shaft snapped.
2. Bits should be judged on their ability to drive screws, not so much to remove them. After all, what mostly do we do with screws?
3. I actively seek "stickiness" in the bits I buy and because of point #2. Wera sputters diamonds onto their bits for a reason. Study the German manufacturers and you will see them releasing (and charging more for) products specifically optimized for their "holding function." Once my Wera bits do what they most often are called to do (i.e., seat a screw), I have zero problem lifting the bit straight out.
4. Bits that don't deform after use are best because they don't damage screws on the way in. That way, should ever you have to remove the screw, you will be able to do so with ease, as it will not have been damaged going in.
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G'day,
Yay Team !
Good stuff..., I recall when such things were built with nesting Glass Bottles inside an outer metal or plastic case ; my mother used to take hot Fried Rice in one to work, and then eat out of the "Thermos Flask" with a metal Fork (!) ; a couple of times she was careless with the Fork & popped the inner Flask - having to go hungry.
As I recall the old Sales Pitch, the "Thermos Flasks" were also called "Vaccumn Flasks" - because the Gap between the inner and outer Flasks was supposed to have been pumped-out before being sealed...; so my Ears stood up when you mentioned the "Air Gap" with these Waterbottles - was that a figure-of-speech/blooper, or are these things now being made without having the Air removed from the "Vaccumn Space" ?
I have a 1970s-vintage Stanley, & it's branded as a "Stainless Steel Vaccumn Flask", on the theory that a Vaccumn is the best possible insulation against Conduction & Convection (and while the Glass was Mirrored to inwarwdly reflect Radiant Heat - the Stainless Steel is polished and kinda shiny)...; and it performs about as well, or better, than the best of the units tested in this video.
It would be cheaper to make double-wall Waterbottles with Air in the Gap - but would such a "Cheapie" perfom well enough to be worth producing...?
The thin material in the outer Walls of the units which you cut open..., makes me suspect that they might be too weak to hold their shape against a Vaccumn..., especially when squeezed in the hand, or dropped onto an Edge the way you did.
So, Air Gap,
Or
Vaccumn Gap...?
That,
Is the
Question...!
(with apologies to Billy Wobblestick).
Just(ifiably ?) ponderin'....
Such is life,
Have a good one...
Stay safe.
;-p
Ciao !
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I'm a new subscriber, and I'm wondering if you've ever done a video comparing traditional antifreeze to Pet Friendly antifreeze? We have a lot of pets, and my solution so far has been to have my mechanic do the job, just to keep the poison from them. But, if one of the pet-friendly anti-freeze products work, I may take the job over myself!
I also had another question: My first car was (and still the best) a 64 Corvair. I remember one summer getting a J.C.Whitney Catalogue (this was in the 70's) and my best friend and I poured over that catalogue choosing the best add-on for our hard-earned summer pay. We decided upon a water injection system. WHAT? A WATER-INJECTION SYSTEM??? Well, yes. Whitney had listed it under the Corvair" section specifically. They explained that during WWII, higher-ups had noticed that the same plan ran better and used less fuel than in Europe. This, it was decided, was because the HUMIDITY in the Pacific theatre was so great. It caused the engines to run cooler, smoother, and more fuel-efficiently. Then, water-vapor injection devices were added to all the planes and the allies won the War!!! I may be embellishing a bit there, but we did purchase it, and I added it to the Corvair's carburetor. Didn't seem to do much....Anyway, have you ever run across this claim? About water injection? Love the channel!!!
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After watching many Project Farm tests of all sorts of practical tests of things used by everybody who works with tools or does repair projects, I think you are a genius at designing and carrying out impartial, real world comparison tests. That your viewers think so, too, is shown by the huge number of subscribers you now have. On this Impact Wrench test, one additional, if obvious, conclusion is that Cousin Eddie is great for someone on a budget who needs an impact wrench for occasional, DIY use, while the Makita appears to be so well constructed that it could stand up to regular, hard use on a farm or in a professional shop setting, where reliability is essential. Thanks again for the unbiased service you provide.
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Does it still work after you stop using it? I barely discovered this product put a tiny bit in and a lot of my problems that I spend countless hours trying to find the perfect tune, little things that make it act in an od undesirable way, i noticed the car would idle smoother after shut off 30 min come back to start, it'd idle poorly, I've been messing with the fast idle stepper, honestly it never crossed my mind I was having low compression, what i difference, i got lucky and randomly bought it for experimentation purposes.
Love your videos project farm, your insight and knowledge is the best out there.
*edit would you look at the differences between 4, 6, 8 cylinder versions of engine restorer?
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Project Farm:face-blue-smiling:
In the vast expanse of the online domain,
A channel emerges, spreading knowledge like rain.
Project Farm, a beacon in the digital light,
Reviews the tools that shape our might.
In the realm of destruction, a daring quest,
Project Farm puts items to the ultimate test.
With humor and data, a guide full of cheer,
He rocks the reviews, a legend far and near.
Oils that dance in the mechanical play,
Welders sparking with a fiery display.
Ropes entwined in strength's warm embrace,
Gasoline tales, jacks lifting with grace.
Chainsaws symphony, roaring with might,
Gas cans, grease, bolts gleaming so bright.
Bluejeans worn in the workshop's lore,
Paint knives for crafting, dreams to explore.
Generators hum, grinders whirl and sing,
Power tools that make the rafters ring.
Boots stomping through the testing ground,
Vacuums cleaning with a rhythmic sound.
From the roar of engines to vacuums' soft hums,
He imparts wisdom as the workshop drums.
Through chaos and destruction, a method refined,
Tools' resilience, a testament to humankind.
Through the pixels and wires, his legend takes flight,
In the vast YouTube landscape, admiration alight.
For Project Farm, the rockstar of review,
Wisdom, humor and breakthroughs anew.
Author: Chat-GPT
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He entered the biz with so much integrity and work ethic, I honestly believe he's not THAT concerned with the money. If the channel went away he'd just be happy that he was able to help some folks with their tool purchase decisions. ย
While I'm at it, his early videos show you the kind of stuff that he was doing before the channel took off. USING tools. He's a cheapskate, or at least frugal, at heart. That requires being able to fix things yourself. We've watched the videos of him working on numerous cars, so he has the skills. It's a working shop and farm. Some YouTubers give me the impression that they're just tool collectors, fetishizing over finish and materials, never really using them. oh well, I could go on and on.
My wife and daughter enjoy watching each week with me, so...figure that out, bottle it, and sell it!
Thanks for another great year of reviews and laughs!
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TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
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- https://www.permabond.com/2015/03/18/bonding-nylonpolyamide-industrial-adhesive/ -
Bonding Nylon/Polyamide with Industrial Adhesive
Polyamide (commonly called Nylon which is a DuPont tradename), is a thermoplastic material widely used in a number of applications across various industries. Special blends are often available with features such as high lubricity, flexibility, and flame retardant properties. Often, Nylon is glass-filled to give extra strength and stiffness properties. It often has a โsilkyโ appearance and it has quite a high melting point โ making it a popular material for engineering applications.
Difficulties Bonding Nylon
Sometimes bonding Nylon is difficult because the surface can have a โgreasyโ feel to it (due to slip additives). Even wiping the Polyamide surface clean with an alcohol-based cleaner will show little improvement as the slip additives continue to migrate to the surface. It is possible to โdry-outโ Nylon before bonding โ leaving it in the oven at 60ยฐC for several hours or overnight will reduce this issue.
Surface Preparation for Bonding Nylon / Polyamide (PA)
It is a good idea to give surfaces a wipe off with a clean rag and isopropanol alcohol to remove any processing lubricants, dust, grease or other contamination. Mechanical abrasion (e.g. using gritpaper, wire wool, red Scotchbrite etc.) will help increase mechanical keying of the industrial adhesive and improve bond strength.
Selection of a Suitable Industrial Adhesive for Bonding Nylon
Anaerobic adhesives: These are limited to specific co-axial or threaded, close fitting joints and require a reactive metal surface to trigger the cure (or use of an anaerobic activator). They are a good choice for threadlocking or sealing but not suitable for bonding Nylon structural joints.
Cyanoacrylate adhesives: These work well on Nylon parts but accelerated aging tests are recommended to check long term durability on certain blends of Polyamide. Using a polyolefin primer on the surface before bonding shows no increase in strength and is therefore not recommended.
Epoxy adhesives: Choosing a softer, more flexible epoxy would be recommended for bonding Nylon, as Nylon is a fairly soft material.
Two-part polyurethane adhesives: These work very well when bonding Nylon, especially as they are fairly flexible and have high peel strength.
Structural acrylic adhesives (including methyl methacrylates): These industrial adhesives work well on most Polyamide blends, combining both rapid bond strength development with high structural strength.
UV-cure adhesives: Generally not recommended for bonding Nylon, as Nylon blocks UV light and would prevent proper curing. If curing through a clear substrate onto Nylon then it could be considered.
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Words often fall short in expressing how invaluable you are to this community. Should anything ever befall you, the void left would be profound.
The hope is that someone with your remarkable integrity and unwavering dedication to the truth would continue to light the way. You've never allowed sponsorships or monetary motivations to cloud your judgement, a rare and commendable trait in today's world.For many, your channel isn't just about consumer reporting; it's a beacon of authenticity amidst a sea of pretense.
The Bible's Book of Revelation speaks of only 144,000 souls ascending to heaven, chosen for their purity and purpose. It's hard not to think of you as one of those select few, given the positive impact you've had. Millions have benefitted from your insights, finding clarity and direction thanks to your tireless efforts.
The ripples of your influence have touched countless hearts, offering guidance and truth when it was most needed. So, on behalf of all those who have found solace, wisdom, and understanding through your videos, we offer our deepest gratitude. From the very depths of our hearts, thank you for being a force for good in a world that so desperately needs it.
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Itโs probably too late for this year, but how about a review on stocking stuffers? Letโs find the things they really want! To simplify any reviews, minimize the number of products tested (max of 3!) and/or previous videos. I am thinking knives, utility knives, multi tools, gloves (protection and warmth), edc items like small flashlights, screwdrivers and pliers, drill bit/driver kits, phone cables, scissors, tape, tire pressure gauge, tire depth gauge, golf balls, band-aids, phone protectors, pen/pencil/markers etc. And of course socks :)
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Another great comparison test. Very thorough. Though not surprising.
I did a very large interior project requiring airless spraying of 3 different colors horizontal stripes on walls of concrete blocks. This project required a lot of masking tape with paper under one edge. I started out using Home Depot's HDX house brand Blue painter's tape. Complete rubbish. Primary problem was that I spent an entire morning taping/masking and hand pressing the adhesive to the walls in 1 room, took a lunch break (before starting to spray) and came back to find 75-80% had released from the wall and piled on the floor. Struggled with these problems for more than a week by masking smaller portions and spraying more piece meal.
About 10 or 12 days into the project, I took all of my unused HDX tape back to Home Depot for a refund, coincidentally noticed that they'd pulled the product from the shelves (what a shock).
I too, conducted my own masking tape comparison to evaluate the different types of Blue painter's tapes including 3 or 4 different 3M products plus FrogTape. I found better adhesion with 3M's plastic blue tape (can't recall the product name, but I'm thinking that it was designed for exterior) and the FrogTape, but I found FrogTape yielded the best results (much less hand touch-up of bleed under required) and was the easiest product to use. Doubled my original investment with the more expensive Frog tape to complete the project.
The project, by the way, was a fire station consisting of an 6 bays, one of which has been converted to an enclosed office space, but the paint scheme was similar throughout. Here are a couple of links to sample photos on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CrowsStationFireDepartment/photos/a.302512896430180/1016011735080289/?type=3&theater
https://www.facebook.com/CrowsStationFireDepartment/photos/a.560035710677896/1421413157873476/?type=3&theater
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Have you ever tried ENGINE RESTORE? It comes in number of cyl in the engine. 4-6-8. I used it the first time 30 years ago in a 71 Cutlass 350 I had just bought. I sold the car and my log book went with it so, this is from memory.
My gf followed me home she said it looked like the bug foggers cities and counties use. It huffed oil. Some was from burning off, some from combustion out the exhaust. (In my defense $200 had a perfect body and perfect white Interior buckets and console. The things I don't or can't fix.)
I cleaned the engine, I loathe filthy engines and the ppl that let them get that way and did a compression test. If memory serves the average was 110 with a couple wtf low and high
I rebuilt the 4150 600 an OEM tune up, cap rotor, wires, plugs, PVC, filters, etc. R&R rocker gaskets, grommets, hoses and tubes. 20 50 Castrol to give the engine a chance of survival, it has worked before. Added 1 well shaken can if 8cyl engine restore.
Engine Restore said give it 1000 miles to work. At 500 miles I pulled all 8 plugs, pretty light brown clean. Ran a cold compression test and the average was up to, I believe 130.
I've used it in every engine, even a Briggs and Stratton that is 25 yrs old, since then.
My 85 Grand Wagoneer has 200,000, my 01 Escape 100,000 and both still going strong as is the Briggs. The rest have come and gone.
My butt dyno tells me it works. I would like to know if you've tested it? I know the time to work could be a problem. You seem to be a very mechanically smart guy, maybe you can figure that out.
Thanks, I just found your channel and I liked it enuf to subscribe.
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1980.,in Brazil we started producing Alcohol from , Sugar cane, as another choice besides ,Gasoline or Diesel. We only have 4 Choices for Alcohol Running Cars. Ford ,Chevy,Dodge and Vw. So, in the Beginning, was a lot of problems with Corrosion, because ,Carburetors and Fuel lines was nont made for that. I Remember my Father was always ,Smart and very innovated guy. He bought a Brand New ,Vw Brasilia. Engine was a Flat 4 ,1300 Cc. There was problems starting in the Morning, and before it warmed up, the engine was missing,/ Sputtering. So, his solution was put 1 Cup of Kerosene, (as Lubricant) for every.full 10 Gallons, Tank. That Car, started running smooth, no more Missing or Sputtering. ๐๐. Just one thing was Visible, the Exhaust pipe was a little wet. Because in Alcohol Cars , they are usually very Dry. No Carbon Burning. Keep on making your great videos. Take Care. ๐๐๐๐๐
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As a commercial driver for 27yrs now, I buy my own silicone wiper blades for my work truck. Our mechanic buys cheap $3 blades and they donโt last, so I spend my own money and buy the PIAA blades, they last for as long as I have that truck, which is usually 5yrs and 500,000 miles. I also use them on my personal vehicle and my wifeโs van. They work better when the wipers are not on high speed, the water wonโt go over and through the metal frame at normal speed. But for your testing, I understand why you used high speed wiper setting. For those who do not live where it snows, standard rubber wiper blades will actually melt and leave black streaks on the windshield when using your defroster with the heat on full hot, the glass gets hot and the rubber starts to get soft and leaves black streaks on the glass. Silicone blades do not do that. Yes the metal frame collects ice and gets stiff and wonโt form to the glass very well, but using de-icer washer solvent (-35F) will melt that and allow the blades to work properly again. Great video. Keep up the good work.
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Just a heads-up: I just re-subscribed. No, I never un-subscibed. YouTube decided to do that for me.
So folks, check your subscriptions. YoutTube is up to its ol' shenanigans again.
The subject of this video reminded me of something. I used to work for a contractor whose equipment was constantly in need of repair or just plain worn out. It's like the entire company, employees included just said "Lubrication? What for?!" I'm tellin ya'! Those people acted like oil or grease was a sin against all that is holy!
I began to bring an oil-can to work and oiled everything I used. From door hinges and latches on the trucks, to the hinges on the gang-boxes, and even the hand-tools with moving parts like ratchets, pliers and vice-grips etc. that I happened to find in the boxes, and had a chance to dab a drop or two of oil on. I swear, everything was rusty and crusty, or just plain ol' funky with mud, dirt and rust, everything BUT grease or oil. When I took company trucks home for the night, I would find the grease fittings for the suspension all rusted up, often unable to take grease until I wire brushed them. I even found one truck so low on engine oil, that it didn't even show on the dipstick!
One way to save money on lubrication, I guess.
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I actually just used some blue demon to (attempt) to fix some threads on an aluminum housing. I had the housing in a vice and even with a mapp gas torch, I really had a hard time getting it up to temp. For me, watching very carefully to how well the others flowed, I think the Hobart or the harbor freight ones would be easier to use. They seem to be more willing to stick to the object being heated, opposed to trying to stick to itself like liquid mercury does. I saw it do that a little bit in your videos as well (With the blue demon). I was also trying to build up material, which really isn't how they are designed as I found out. You can't do a "stitch weld" like you can with a real welder (Going hot, melting, cooling off, welding more on it, and so forth). The "blob" of brazed material will simply melt and roll off before you can add more material with it.
So more than likely my fails were over expectations and probably user error. I can definitely see how useful these could be. We're seeing more and more stuff being made out of Aluminum and the fact that tiny braze held against all that cylinder pressure is pretty awesome. I'd be curious if you drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it, if you clamped the head against some iron, then tried to fill the hole with the aluminum filler.
For those that wondered about the non-chlorinated brake cleaner - why he mentioned it. More than likely it's because Todd knows about how UV light exposure can turn chlorinated brake cleaner into Phosgene gas which is super-poisonous. Any form of arc/mig/tig welding will do it. I'm not sure if brazing would, but always better to err on the side of caution.
Great test as always!
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G'Day,,,Hmmm yer,,spend the money and buy some good one's,,
have a pack of 50 ,, Not worth how cheap they were,now they only take up space in the shop,
Yes did try them,,big ask filling hole in aluminium can,,melted can,not rod,,as soon as i saw this,may have well burnt the money spent,,
Now to find some good one's..thanks for you help Project Farm,
Like your films very much,,keep up the good work,,
P,S.Mainly brought them to repair cracks in boats,,just keep a couple at fishing shack for any people that need them,Nothing screws up a fishing trip like a leaky boat,,
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You're just confirming what I've been saying for years, T--Rex all the way baby! And, I'm a girl. Men always try to tell me Gorilla or Flex Tape, and I'm all, "No Way!" Anyway, I recently tried the T-Rex duct tape in White and I found it to be weaker or not as strong as the gunmetal color. Would you consider doing a video for the different colored and type of T-Rex tapes, including the white, black, gunmetal, as well as the UV Resistant & Waterproof Backing for Wood and Brick T-Rex tapes? I'm just curious if there's a difference in quality, strength and stickiness just because its a different color. You would think not, but it would be nice to get a professional and unbias opinion.
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Where to start?
Well, sharpness out of the box is probably the parameter I would pay least attention to. It means little as you can sharpen to what you like.
More to the point is cutting performace overall - a blade that is thin behind the edge may slice more easily for the same sharpness on the BESS-C scale.
My kitchen knives are always kept below 140 on BESS but some cut more easily than others at the same sharpness, due to the geometry
More important is comfort and I find Global very uncomfortable too and would not buy Global just due to sharpness out of the box
Edge retention and brittleness (your blunting and drop tests) ate pretty much opposites: Zwilling may have a less brittle point but will need sharpening more often.
But again, it depends on the knife. I have a Bob Kramer Zwilling that is up at Rockwell over 60 and retains an edge well but although it measures at 120 or less on BESS when I have sharpened, it doesnt cut as well.
Weight is absolutely nothing to do with quality. My favourite knives weigh in at under 150g for 200mm versions. They also happen to be very thin, extremely hard (over 62 Rockwell) and for what its worth, came out of the box at around 140 BESS and two strokes of a leather strop brought them down to around 80.
With that edge and the thin geometry they cut carrot, for example, as if there is nothing there.
They also have extremely comfortable handles (these are Takamura hand made knives).
As to dishwashers, NEVER put a kitchen knife in a dishwasher. Not only will it damage the blade and handles in the long term, but it is extremely dangerous to have items that sharp in a dishwasher basket. Even if you dont have choldren who could look in the dishwasher for something, you could easily firget yourself and have a very nasty injury.
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