Hearted Youtube comments on Lets Drift Media (@LetsDriftMedia) channel.

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  19. 0:00 YO 0:50 Disconnect auxillary battery and hybrid battery safety plug ("service plug grip" in repair manual) 1:13 Remove plastic engine cover 1:19 Remove wiper blades (3x 14mm nuts) and upper cowl panel 1:46 Remove wiper motor assembly (4x 10mm bolts, 1 wire connector) and lower cowl panel (10x 10mm bolts) 2:30 Unplug MAF sensor (1 wire connector); remove intake air cleaner assembly, air cleaner hose assembly, air cleaner cap sub-assembly, air cleaner hose assembly, air cleaner case (3x 10mm bolts) 3:29 Unplug ignition coils (4 wire connectors), variable valve timing solenoid (1 wire connector) 4:08 Remove ground wires (3x 10mm bolts) 4:46 Be mindful of damaging A/C compressor connector 5:07 Unplug A/C compressor, knock sensor, water pump, throttle body; Remove coolant lines and vacuum lines from throttle body; Remove intake manifold (2x 10mm bolts on EGR valve; 3x 12mm bolts, 2x 12mm nuts on cylinder head sub-assembly) 5:29 Double sneeze 5:36 Excuses 6:34 Remove intake manifold and throttle body as one unit 6:52 Remove cylinder head cover (12x 10mm bolts, 1x long 10mm bolt w/ non-replaceable seal washer) 7:30 Raise car; Remove splash shield 8:00 Drain engine oil and engine coolant 8:15 Unplug oxygen sensor, oil pressure sensor, crank position sensor 8:25 Excuses 8:30 Remove timing cover bolts (9x 14mm), crank pulley AFTER setting cylinder 1 to Top-Dead-Center/Compression (1x 19mm bolt), water pump (3x short 12mm bolts, 2x long 12mm bolts, non-reusable gasket) 9:13 Remove exhaust manifold (2x 14mm bolts, 1 bracket) 10:23 Remove EGR coolant hoses 10:41 Excuses 10:47 Remove radiator pipe from transmission (2x 12mm bolts); Remove radiator hose from engine block 11:15 Remove coolant reservoir (2x 10mm bolts); Remove A/C coolant line bracket (2x 10mm) 11:27 Remove motor mount (4x 17mm bolt, 1x 17mm nut, 1x 14mm nut) 12:36 How to set cylinder no. 1 to Top-Dead-Center/Compression 13:49 Remove timing chain tensioner (2x 10mm bolts, 1x non-reusable gasket); Remove water pump 14:55 Remove timing cover 15:28 Remove chain tensioner slipper and chain vibration damper; Remove timing chain 16:37 Remove EGR (4x 12mm bolts, 4x Torx E8 studs); Remove camshaft housing (15x 12mm bolts) 17:36 Remove radiator hose, remove fuel line 18:10 Remove valve rocker arms; Be mindful of losing valve stem covers 18:32 Remove head bolts (10x non-reusable 10mm bi-hexagon bolts); Be mindful of breaking bolts loose over multiple passes and from outside inwards to avoid warping, stripping, or other damage; Do not reuse head bolts as they are torqued upon installation and stretched 19:41 Remove cylinder head 20:35 Inspect pistons, engine block, and cylinder head for warpage; Resurface engine block and cylinder head; Clean camshaft housing and timing cover; Consider bringing engine head to an auto machine shop to resurface and inspect valve seals since you're already saving so much money replacing the head gasket yourself 22:10 Timing sprocket details 22:58 Apply replacement head gasket; Replace cylinder head 24:36 Add new head bolts (10x 10mm bi-hexagon bolts torqued 49Nm/36ftlb torque on first pass, 90 degree turn on second pass, 45 degree turn on third and final pass; Torque bolts from inside outwards on each pass for even torque) 25:41 Replace valve rocker arms; Add silicone sealant on clean edge surface to seal against camshaft housing; Replace camshaft housing 26:03 Replace timing chain with timing marks lined up on camshaft timing gear, camshaft timing sprocket, and crankshaft position sensor plate 26:51 Turn crank multiple revolutions to ensure timing marks are still lined up; Add silicone sealant to clean edge surface of timing cover; Replace timing chain tensioner and all other components in reverse order 27:20 Start car; There may be a rattle from timing chain tensioner that will disappear quickly Specialty tools: Torx E8 socket (don't get a cheap one), 10mm bi-hexagon head bolt male wrench (don't use triple-square) Standard tools: Penetrating oil e.g. PB Blaster to prevent breaking bolts or studs; Vice grips if you break a bolt or stud; 3/8" drive ratchet; 1/2" drive ratchet; 10mm, 12mm, 14mm standard sockets; 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm , 19mm, 21mm deep sockets Big thanks to Lets Drift Media for this helpful video. I also found this video from Gasket Masters to be helpful; it includes tips to remove the crank bolt if you don't have an impact tool (0:40), and how to prevent the camshafts from rotating when you remove the timing chain (12:18): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxjIzhpwW78 I also recommend paying $20 for a 2-day or $90 for a monthly standard subscription to Toyota's Technical Information System (TIS) via Snap-on (https://techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/register.aspx) and also writing/calling your local congressional representatives in support of a national Right To Repair bill to reduce artificial friction to fixing what you own so we don't have to pay for a subscription for the repair manual to our own cars.
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  39. I'll add my perspective here, mostly because it's unique. I spent 30 years as a tech, from 1972 to 2002, when I hung up the wrenches and took a job teaching for UTI. I taught with them for 8 1/2 years, although my position was unusual in that I taught in a manufacurer-supported "graduate" program (Volkswagen) for 7 1/2 of those years. In 2010, Volkswagen withdrew their support and the program was closed, at which time I was transferred to the main part of the campus where I taught basic electricity. So, that's my background. I'll begin by saying that I agree with your observations regarding the school. It is definitely "for profit", and it is definitely expensive. As such, the company has, as you mentioned, a very slick and enticing marketing program geared to attract the 16 to 25 year old demographic. I mention 16 to 18, because when I was teaching, it was common for them to have high school field trips visit the school to "plant the seeds of interest." When I left in 2011, tuition was 35K per year, and it was a 2 year program. No doubt, that number is significantly higher today. In order to fill seats, one of their tools was to get prospective students to sign up for a government backed loan. Most, if not all, of that money the student never saw, as it went directly to UTI. If the student failed or left the program, he or she was still on the hook for paying back the loan. The larger problem with this method was that recruiters were encouraged to push these loans to everyone, and to sign anyone, no matter their education, desire, or aptitude. It also meant that initial class sizes were chronically overfilled, often with people who discovered with in the first few weeks that they did not really want to be there. Those people quickly lost interest, and some became a disruptive influence in the classroom, to the detriment of those who were there to learn. At the same time, pressure was always on the instructors, (nearly all of us at that time were former or retired techs) to do everything possible to ensure they would pass the classes. It was this combination of situations that led to my quitting the company. All of this, of course, is in the distant past. Whether any of the conditions I mentioned have been addressed and/or rectified I cannot say. What I would encourage anyone considering enrolling to do, is talk to as many current and former students as possible about their experiences before deciding. As Nick said, courses like the hot rod program are definitely attractive, but jobs in that area of the field are scarce compared to dealership and independent tech jobs, which is where you will likely start upon graduating. Keep in mind, it is a physically demanding job, and often dirty and occasionally dangerous. Make sure, as sure as possible, that it's what you really want to do. You will be signing up for a lot of debt, not only for the school, but for the tool outlay when you go to work in a shop. On balance, the curriculum, at least while I was there, was first rate. For those who were enthusiastic, driven and dedicated to the becoming techs, it was a great program. The best of them worked part time in shops nearby while attending classes. The most successful that I encountered went through one of the manufacturer supported graduate programs and went on to work in their dealership. I hope this helps in making your decision.
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