Hearted Youtube comments on Bernadette Banner (@bernadettebanner) channel.
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[Paramedic comment. Please like so Bernadette sees it!!]
First, I wanted to tell you that I am very new to your channel. You came up as a YouTube suggestion, and though I usually ignore those, it was regarding your lady Sherlock Holmes. I love Sherlock Holmes so I gave it a try. I fell in love with what you were doing, immediately! Ms. Banner, I can’t honestly say I’m ever going to get into any kind of clothes making at all, (I just don’t have the time), but I find your videos extremely interesting, very well put together, artistic in their editing, and so relaxing and pleasant to watch that I have started looking for people to watch them with me so that we can sit together with strong cups of Ceylon and discussing them! Thank you so much for putting your content on YouTube! ❤️
Second, what a class act you are! You have no idea how upsetting it was for myself and my fellow healthcare workers to learn that people had literally been stealing N-95 HEPA masks from hospitals, doctors offices, and anywhere else they could find them. The only people out there who could take care of them with the people they left in the lurch. Healthcare workers have since died from this virus and some are near death. All because they caught a virus they should have been able to protect themselves from, but no longer had the ability to do so.
For you to take the time to make these masks when you have financial obligations, bills, and projects ongoing at all times, and for you to ask your community to do the same in a very respectful way, says a lot about your character. It says a lot about the character of the peers you associate with.
I’ve been seeing the pattern for these masks on Facebook for a few weeks, but not everyone has the materials, and as you said the stores are shut. For the folks who have the materials to make please, I beg of you to do so.
People who actually have N-95 masks have been trying to get them to medical personnel who are taking care of patients, but they have nothing to replace them with. You are giving them the opportunity to make those donations by giving them these masks.
I also want you to keep your ambulance personnel in mind. We have no way to keep our distance for patients. We are stuck in a 10‘ x 6‘ rolling box that is not well ventilated, and we cannot be any further than about 8 feet from the patient at all times in an enclosed space. Transports can take a long time, and we are constantly being exposed. Sadly, we too are running out of proper protection because no one can order any masks-the were ordered up by the panicking public.
The truth is, the N-95 mask is a mask that has to be FITTED your face. This is a process that can take up to 17 minutes and involves either a computer program or an aerosolized mist and a hood. So the people who have stolen the masks, or ordered them up so that there is no supply for the healthcare workers, very likely have masks that DO NOT FIT them and absolutely WILL NOT PROTECT THEM. Feeling safe, these people are out and about wearing their ill fitting masks and exposing themselves to a virus that could kill them, or their loved ones, (or complete strangers), but don’t realize this because they have a false sense of security from their mask.
It’s utterly tragic and absolutely frustrating for us.
So, I just want to say, again, THANK YOU for doing this. Thank you to everyone who is willing to take the time to do this. This is a lovely thing that we can do for each other, and I can tell you from first-hand experience, helping random strangers when they are desperate will, for the rest of your life, make you feel like you mattered and did something important with your life.
That is a rare feeling to have. Embrace it!! ❤️❤️ Stay safe, wash your hands with soap and water for at least 20 seconds, (and get under your nails), stay at least 6 feet apart, and don’t cross-contaminate everything with your gloves!
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Thank you for this video! There is so much I want to say, but for now I’ll comment on 13:01 and fainting/ swooning. Normally breathing is the primary concern (the first question I usually get is “but how do you breathe?!”) but fainting and the vasovagal response is often due to changes in blood pressure resulting in the brain receiving less blood. Beyond the entire Victorian culture around swooning, it can be caused by dehydration, overheating, hypoglycaemia, etc. But interestingly, some people who are diagnosed with blood pressure irregularities like postural orthostatic hypotension (POTS) (Edited to add the correction, it can be a genetic issue but can sometimes be idiopathic), have found that the corset helps regulate their fluctuating blood pressure and prevent fainting.
Also, regarding broken ribs, which I see a lot of people mentioning in the comments - broken (human, not baleen) ribs cannot always be attributed to the corset. Many people today have broken ribs due to falling, being thrown from horses, domestic abuse, etc., which all existed in the Victorian era as well. Children’s jungle gyms at the turn of the century were wildly more dangerous than they’re designed to be today, often 20 feet high. Correlation =\= causation, so a skeleton of a corset wearer with signs of a broken rib doesn’t mean that the corset necessarily caused it.
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Their copy dress ironically is so badly made, you'd probably never get a win if you went after them for copying you. Also they could argue they were inspired by the old painting as well. What you can do, is contact them to have your image removed. And in the future you can post watermarked images on Instagram to render them useless for crooks like these guys. They will still try to use them, of course, but it becomes very obvious that they stole the image.
I "watermark" all my images by hiding a little something in them, something you have to know where to look for in order to find it, that way I can always prove that I was the original creator, a hidden signature of sorts. A pattern of only a few pixels, but a pattern that would never naturally crop up in an image. Back when I was a coder, I did the same in my code, a little hidden comment somewhere deep in the code, to prove that I was the original coder. Of course when the picture is of your actual person, it is very easy to prove that it is yours hehe
I just hate how they use an image of a quality handcrafted item to sell cheap crap, and if they do operate out of any country with some sort of consumer protection laws, false advertisement might be how you'd get them, as the end product is nothing like your image, at all.
Btw, love how you turned something that would infuriate most creative people, into a teachable moment, and exposing them for the joke they are. :)
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I'm a cosplayer. In that community, there is nowadays also a fast fashion element. People will buy a trending sweatshop cosplay to wear at a singular event and then throw it out. To me, that is bonkers, because those are not cheap! That's about a hundred dollars per day per event, no entry included! How are people doing that? I cosplay mostly thrifted or carefully self-made things with a ton of details, because that's what I like. I don't fault people for not being able to do that, buying cosplay is perfectly fine. Heck, I've done it! However, please, RE-WEAR things. I admit I'm not always the best at that myself - but I am proud that I resell things I no longer wear and have not thrown anything away. The point being, consider cost per wear and be smart about it, and thrift whenever possible. Whether cosplaying or not.
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"OG Elizabethans required ultimate puff; the entire sleeve just one massive puff", "The second, floaty, collar thing", "So good try 21st century, but we're going to need a much stronger ruffle game than that", "#vampireaesthetic", "... gothic vampire trash collar things", "Maximum floofage", "... maybe don't do that", "... and if not. Cool. Bye". – Bernadette Banner circa 2019.
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As a young-ish man who just recently got into sewing to fix up some of my clothes, I resonate so much with the line, "Everyone should know how to sew. It's not a feminine thing. It's not a delicate, floofy thing. It's a basic, practical skill; To be able to mend and maintain the things that you wear." At Thanksgiving I mentioned it to my cousin who sews and she seemed taken aback and said, "You don't normally hear guys admit they enjoy sewing." and I reacted with a very similar sentiment to your quote above.
A long time ago I wanted to make my own hooded, full-length cloak, and now that I'm getting back into sewing (by hand, because I don't have a working machine, but I DO have all the time in the world), I'm looking more seriously into patterning and designing it. Honestly it's pretty ambitious just because I wanted to try to lean towards natural fabrics as much as I can, and make a removable wool lining, but I figure that at least the lining can wait until after I've made the base cloak.
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BERNADETTE BANNER....🤦🏼♀️....you THINK it “came out nice enough to wear regularly in everyday dress”...???? IT IS SPECTACULAR!!! You worked out the tailoring, the adjustments needed for your specific spinal anatomy, the padding is perfection & the stays give it a beautiful structure! If I had accomplished something that wonderful for my 1st foray into tailoring, I would 1) wear it a minimum of four times a week & 2) stop everyone who commented on it that I HAD HAND MADE IT, using historical patterns nonetheless!! Plus I would make at least 4 more in different fabrics, lol! You should not be selling yourself short in anyway; regarding ANY piece of this outfit! I have worn period authentic Civil War reproduction undergarments/corsets/day dresses & ball gowns for YEARS...& to be perfectly honest, I am so glad I am not part of it anymore. Because, unlike Costume College where you are encouraged to learn & can ask questions about specific aspects of a garment; attending a Civil War Ball is walking in front of a firing squad. I have literally seen (& heard) the dressing down of a young lady who had made her first period correct ball gown. She was told to leave because she had added a zipper (which was absolutely not visible unless you were inspecting the gown) under the modesty panel of her skirt for extra security. I wish I knew if she was still involved with reenactments as I would love for her to know about Foundations Revealed as well as costume college! Please know that when you are showing the small (or medium size) mistakes you rarely make: they are a comfort to those of us who may be at a crossroads wondering how many layers of fabric my tiny bird snips could actually cut through when nothing is going right!!! (What...I know I’m not the only one who wonders if I can stab holes into a bodice that just WILL NOT MEET UP PER THE PATTERN 🤬 with my little birds...I know there are others out there)! You are such a breath of fresh air & it makes such a difference when I’m frustrated with my project & need to calm myself down. Kathy is also quickly becoming a favorite of mine as well, it is easy to see that you were absolutely either sisters or best friends in a past life. Such a rare & wonderful gift that is! Never change my dear, except to stop doubting your finished products! Doubting is strictly for pattern making & mock ups only. I CANNOT WAIT to see the finished Holmes & of course, Watson! Take good care of yourself, thank you for sharing with us & reminding us that if we set our minds to an idea...we CAN successfully accomplish it. Sending hugs & much love 🤗💜🥰!
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As someone who's been a tutor for several students going through tailoring classes, I would like to throw in my own few cents with what I know of modern tailoring practices. None of what you did is wrong or bad, but to just give you more info. Although, firstly, OMFG IT LOOKS SO GOOD. I can't wait to put together a cute waistcoat like this and wear it every single day of my life.
So regarding the guts of your tailoring. I was taught that you do not have ANY seam allowances on your hair canvas, as it's too bulky. All along the edges you use an incredibly thin tape to attach. You machine it to the canvas, and catch stitch it to your fashion fabric.It adds a beautiful pop of contrast. Next, I was taught to have the darts of your fashion fabric come out through the dart openings of your canvas, and catch stitch the edges of the canvas to the stitching of your dart. It allows the option of altering that dart much easier. (Although it's never easy to open up that much stitching.) Next comment. Often, a 1/2" twill tape is herringboned down your roll line. This is over the canvas. It strengthens that bend point. Regarding pad stitching, at the outermost 1/" or so of the edge of the lapel, the pad stitching rows get closer together to encourage it to roll under further and not curl at the edge. And final comment. The very upper edge of your front canvas, from shoulder seam to roughly top of bra line or thereabouts, often has a SECOND piece of canvas, cut on the bias, and attached to the canvas layer. This adds strength and reducing warping at a high twisting point.
Are any of these historical? Who knows! Are they the One And Only True Way? Absolutely not. But as someone who has done a fair bit of tailoring and tutoring of tailoring, I thought you might appreciate having some extra techniques and thoughts to flap around your brain as you continue to explore tailoring. I find the more tailoring I do, the more and more I love "firm hand" sewing, and lose all patience with the light fluffies. Give me wool that I can steam and shape into submission any day!
As always, I remain with baited breath waiting for your next video!
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I recently started going to estate sales, and I thought they'd be super depressing since typically estate sales occur after the items' caretakers passed away or are put in nursing homes, but I've found it to be almost beautiful. Here's the culmination of decades of gathering and buying and using and being gifted by others. Unlike garage sales where folks are just getting rid of things they don't want, estate sales are full of things that were wanted and cherished, and my being there and buying things means the items get to continue being used and cherished rather than ending up in a landfill. It's especially wonderous when the previous owner was a craftsperson like me - I went to the home of a quilter, and while all the quilts were long bought by the time I got there, I found boxes of high quality needles (#10 sharps by one of those brands you guys like!), templates and thread and other such things. I got an old shoe box full of pen nibs and ink that had a recipe card hidden within as well. The items I bought smelled so much like my grandmother (who died 15 years ago). From another sale, I bought a drop leaf dining table for far less than an IKEA table and will last MUCH longer. When I went to pick it up after the sale, one of the ladies from the family gave me all the tablecloths that once went with the table, since no one bought them - hand embroidered and beautiful. I'm hooked.
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this channel is so perfect for any level of attention.
if you are paying close attention, there's beautiful camera work, great music and often sounds, the captions can be endlessly entertaining, not to mention Bernadette's wonderful way of speaking, and of course some great laughs along the way both in what she says and the occasional meme on screen.
if you're listening but not watching, things are explained clearly so you'll never get lost in the sauce, the music is perfectly balanced with her voice so you'll be able to enjoy it while still getting info, and the sounds are asmr worthy.
if you want something to fall asleep to, that also works. most of the videos are consistent in a fairly low energy which is perfect to relax to, there's not too much going on to shock you out of sleepyness, there's just enough going on to keep part of your brain paying attention though.
i just love this channel. anyways
thank you for the good you've done and the growth you've had. <3
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This is going to be a bit random, but thank you so much for posting these videos! I have to say, honestly, that I was not the least bit interested in getting into sewing before I saw your videos. Watching these made me realize that a lot of the fears and inhibitions I faced when looking at sewing things were all things that could be challenged and faced. Watching you solve problems in your work with a happy sort of patience made me feel a lot better about beginning something that seemed daughtingly difficult. Not owning a working sewing machine had also stopped me from getting into this, before I saw you work on your projects with just a hand sewing needle. It inspired me to really, truly, try my hardest with a couple of projects. Now I teach my own sewing classes at a local fabric store, where I get the chance to inspire other people into tumbling down the rabbit hole of problem solving, creativity, and patient hours of calming work. You deeply inspire me and I wanted to let you know, and to thank you for being so amazing and just having fun with what gives you joy ^.^
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Hi Bernadette! I am a fellow historical fashion enthusiast, but I also happen to be studying Bioarchaeology and Forensic Anthropology in London. It just so happens that I have chosen skeletal deformation caused by corseting in the 19th century as my dissertation topic. I noticed that many of the sources you used are sources that I have been consulting in the compilation of my research thus far, which made me very excited. I agree that much of the hysteria regarding corseting, then and now, seems to have been fabricated, or at the very least over exaggerated. However, there are certainly permanent affects from corseting seen on the skeleton and these are readily observable. Your excellent point that corseting was a matter of habit,and commenced at a very young age, is key. What we must also consider is that even though you might not be in pain, your body will still make adjustments to constriction. So we readily see plastic deformation and fractures of the ribs as a result of growing up in a constricting device. What I hope to be focusing on is the epidemiology of osteoarthritis in the spine as a result of life-long corseting - which is a field of work not much explored. I might find that corseting may not result in any higher prevalence of OA in the spine or ribs, but I have a feeling that it might. Again, we cannot assign levels of pain to an individual based on skeletal remains. Pain threshold is highly variable, and in the case of joint disease often unnoticed (especially if movement is restricted)> If you're interested I can send you the results of my dissertation in the fall. Love your videos!
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As usual, I have learnt way too much information, to the point where my brain is like: I need good wool, and I need it now! I was going to buy a similar commercial pattern to make my coat, but then I remembered Keystone is a thing, and it's free so...... looks up website, to check and now I've decided that I must splurge once more on some Norwegian wool, make the coat of my dreams, (mostly so I don't unnecessarily freeze in the winter, which to be honest, is most of the year where I live), and mess up fantastically somewhere along the line. Thank you Bertie - also your coat now looks amazing!!! It's sort of nice/a relief to see someone else taking something apart and resewing it. I've done that too many times with earlier projects that I've lost count.
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Okay, so this was absolutely delightful and had me cackling with delight throughout! Stuff like this is just such a great way of bringing the actual people of the past back to life. Like, that hairstyle at the end is legit just cute af regardless of what century you happen to be in. Seeing it in portraiture or the like is one thing, but being able to see it move and how it acts throughout the day, it's ease of use, and things is such an invaluable glimpse into an aspect of people's lives that we get to bring back into the conversation. Which is why I actually kinda like the "imperfections" from you doing it for the first time, as how many of us are fortunate that our hair always behaves exactly as we want it every single day or we have the time to really do it properly? As a side note, I have to say the editing in this is beat for beat perfect. Ironically enough, for a video without any sewing, it sure left me in stitches! 🤣
Edit: I just had a bit of a brainwave in relation to the comment on how strong the scents are, as draft animals and horses were still a major factor in transportation (especially in crowded cities) coupled with factors like industrial waste/pollution, doesn't it kinda make a sort of sense to turn your hair into a forcefield of scents too? Even now, cities can get pretty darn smelly (NYC can get pungent in the summer for example), and it'd be a nice way of dealing with it today too.
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Rachel on the street is looking like National Geographic's grade photographer, I can't stop laughing :D
I agree with Bernadette's point about social anxiety and wearing your very loved, comfortable for you clothing, when I wear one of my beloved 3 skirts, 12 years old coat, and one of similarly ancient cardigans, I feel like I have sort of shield, that protects me from people. But today was the strangest day ever, I was looking with my friend for a dress for her brother's wedding and I got weird looks, while wearing black midi skirt, camisole and buttoned cardigan. Not to mention that she haven't bought anything (I wasn't even planning, I have clothes in my wardrobe, thank you) because everything is just cut wrong, I would alter about 90% of what we've seen today and we were literally running for 6 hours.
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I love that we saw all the difficulties and stress throughout the process, before revealing the absolutely stunning gown at the end. Showing the struggle reminds us all of the skill, time and effort it takes to make something like this. (That being said, I am so excited to eventually get to this level of skill, although I'm sure I'll still see myself as a beginner.)
May I also just express how incredibly inspiring all of your videos, but especially these long, detailed sewing adventures, are. Whenever I watch one of your creations, I always find myself able to sew, embroider or whatever it is that's taking me approximately twelve billion years to get through, a whole lot quicker and with greater enthusiasm and enjoyment. I have to thank you so very much for that.
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I had an anthropology teacher give a presentation on body modifications, and included corseting with Chinese foot binding. Her entire presentation on corseting was focused on the birth defects caused, the surgical removal of ribs, and all the other myths of corseting you discussed in the video. I have notes from that presentation with anecdotes such as "where is the historical evidence?", and "that's a fashion magazine photo, where's the real woman?". Furthermore, she spoke about how Chinese women learned to adapt to the foot binding, but not about how western women functioned day to day with their corsets. My anthropology teacher's presentation didn't include any reference to garment sizing worn by women at the time, or any indication that the photos we see of the tiny Edwardian woman's waist were not common, and honestly somewhat decreased my respect for her cultural analyses on such subjective topics. I have had a small interest in historical dress, but your videos have taught me quite a lot, and have given me tools to approach other analyses of historical fashions with a more critical eye for what needs more evidence to be taken as credible information.
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On a slightly pedantic note, because leatherwork is my absolute jam and I can preach about it for hours:
"Genuine leather" is a misnomer that can range from chopped/ground up leather scraps pasted into a sheet (like plywood) to actual leather taken from a hide (and being genuine in the usual sense of the word). Most (if not all) shoe leather these days is usually chrome-tanned which is fairly harsh on the environment, but quicker than vegetable tanned. To wit, I don't think the more environmentally-"friendly" vegetable-tanned leather is often used in shoes these days (aside from shell cordovan, which is a different beast entirely). All that said... properly tanned leather that is maintained (conditioned, cleaned of salt/moisture/etc, allowed to dry) is VASTLY better than the leather plywood that is so often hawked these days and I am incredibly gleeful that you brought it up.
Another facet is that the hide from slaughtered cattle would otherwise go to waste (as the hide isn't as used for non-leather applications as it was in say, 1900). Utilization of the entire animal is one of the small benefits to using leather over the "leathers' out of cactus, pineapple, mushroom, etc.
Thank you so much for spreading the truth about it! Cheers!
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Oooo, such adventurous historic fun! I must find myself a historic fair to attend, but wait....quarantine is still a thing.
On a side note, dearest Bernadette, I’m going to take this opportunity to tell you how very much, not only your life work but you as a person are dear to my heart.
I know you say that you are chronically introverted, a strange human and something of a swamp hag, and of course you have other completely human struggles to deal with, because such is life, but you are also entirely inspiring, adorable, true and strong and the cleverest witch.
Over these many months we’ve been on the YouTubes together you have enticed some very amazing things out of me, of which I can not thank you enough. Let me explain - I’ve always enjoyed sewing (historic dresses being a wonderful but unattainable aspiration) but sort of forgot about it in the last couple of years, but you went and set me to dreaming again! I told myself making a historic dress was far beyond me; however, one day I said to myself that I was going to give it my best try, and we’ll...seven projects later I’m a total addict. I really enjoy hand sewing now, too. Really, you have informed much of my thought pattern around historic sewing and dress. Your Victorian/Edwardian style is impeccable and has also become my era of choice. I am now becoming a modernish Victorian thing unashamedly wearing my creations and I feel I’ve found home.
❤️ Thank you, Bernadette.
P. S. I find it ridiculous that we both had a ravenous and instantaneous need to understand Old English, when we realized it was a thing.
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I have another proof to offer. I regularly look through Weldon's Ladies Journal (which started in 1879), which, similar to Butterick's Delineator, sold patterns. I've mostly perused the 1900-1910's, so that's what I'm referencing below. Much like today's clothing, they had suggestions for young ladies, misses, and matrons (plus size) their misses range, for adult women, begins at 23 or 24" and runs to 30 or 32," depending on the purpose and style. Their young ladies (aka older teens) does go down to 19/20", but that's with a pretty small bust. Also there were ads for both losing weight, AND gaining weight.
Also, Corset Cutting and Making (which is from the very early 1920's but features patterns that are very obviously from the previous three decades) features several support modifications, that were worn with, or as part of, a corset to correct for scoliosis and other muscular-skeletal issues.
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Building upon your theory, I wonder if the understanding that photographs are going to be manipulated to be as flattering as possible to the subject was lost not in the internet era, but in the era of cheap and disposable personal cameras. When it became not just possible, but relatively cheap for every household to take dozens of photos of themselves over the course of a couple of years, but not necessarily to pay to have those photos professionally retouched, there became a stronger expectation of reality in photography. Of course, commercial photography still would have used the same tricks, and the same manipulation tactics to make sure that they were presenting the best version of whatever they were trying to sell as possible. But I know for myself growing up, I was surrounded by amateur photographs, taken by and of loved ones, and the influence of professional photo manipulation was not ingrained into me until the digital photo revolution started gaining more traction.
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I do love your filmography, aesthetic and how you’re able to capture the beauty of such an amazing machine.
From what I understand, the treadle leather drive belts are normally connected with a metal link. It’s a bit hard to see in the video but so long as the belt is tensioned enough to stop it from slipping you should be fine using it. Usually the hole for the metal link should be dead centre of the belt – if you do get a replacement usually you’d make your own hole for the tension of your particular machine. There’s special leather belt pliers for making these holes and securing the staple – note there are (at least) two different diameters of belt and the tool should match the belt and machine.
The wooden pitman arm (“spoke thing”) shouldn’t actually pivot like it does, it’s missing a wooden wedge (with nut and washer) as well as the bottom of the main piece of wood. The “key” shape is designed to allow you to attach the arm to the flywheel, then the wedge is screwed into place to stop it coming off. You can find replacement wooden pitman arms for the singers (prices vary, be careful about if the replacement will fit your machine).
I think, but am not certain, that the leather strap is a repair on your machine. I’ve not got first hand experience with that particular variant but I don’t recall seeing leather straps on them. It’s very possible this is a unique bit of history to your machine! Personally I find that really exciting!
If you’ve not already done so (or sew, because pun), it’s well worth going through and cleaning up the internals of the machine and applying fresh sewing machine oil, especially given the state of the shuttle rocker. Oil oil can really gunk up mechanisms and prematurely wear machines, it should be slippy, not sticky.
Note: anyone with handy-person people out there keep 3 in 1 away from sewing machines, it's too think and not appropriate oil.
One last thing for any other people out there wanting one of these – be aware that cast iron is brittle and careless shipping companies can break the treadles if they drop them in transit. I found this out the hard way. Cast iron is not really repairable. I do suggest where possible using a shipping company with insurance or cover for the item or ideally if possible collecting it yourself and securing for transit (using all my sofa pillows and creating a padded shell in my car usually work for me).
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I think the big differences between painted portraits of the past and today's social media are the purpose the images served and the pervasiveness of them. A royal portrait was about projecting power and status. The actual individual was less important than the position they held. This is why the portraits were also often filled with symbolic objects that represented military or political might. While royals could influence fashion, it was only for a very small circle of elites. Your average mantua maker wouldn't look at a portrait of Marie Antoinette and think "I should try that look". She would see the queen dressed in what was essentially the uniform of her job. Part of the reason why the portrait of Marie Antoinette in a chemise a la reine caused such a scandal was that it showed her as a person, not as her role as queen. Social media on the other hand, sells itself as a representation of real life "normal" people who are your "friends". While we on some level know that the photos are likely staged and altered, the realism of photography and the "influencers are just regular people" message, combined with the non-stop exposure to those images, makes us feel like our reality is insufficient. This is what makes social media such an effective marketing tool, because it changes our subconscious perception of normal and makes us believe that we are the ones that are not normal and therefore must purchase whatever product is being sold in order to be "normal".
On an unrelated note, I believe that the continued usage of illustrations in advertisement throughout the earlier half of the 20th century was mostly the result of cost and technology limitations. Printing high quality photos was more expensive than printing illustrations, and for much of the period, colored film didn't exist, so illustrations were the way to go if you wanted eye catching colored ads.
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It should also be noted that the skeletal disfigurements caused by corseting (which have been documented photographicaly) have two sources- young children growing up in corsets, and starting tightlacing before the body has finished growing.
Starting corseting while very young means the body, especially the rib cage, grows within the limits of what the corset allows, and corsets may not have been properly exchanged for larger ones during growth spurts. Starting tightlacing before the body has finished growing only exacerbates the problem.
Also, although corsets did adjust to the wearer, many problems related to them come from improperly fitted corsets. Asymmetric corsets like you wear do not come off the rack, and any degree of scoliosis requires one. So, if someone with undiagnosed scoliosis buys a corset off the rack, sores and worse would occur.
I am intending to corset, but what I desire in a corset and my currently limited research indicates that an earlier generation of corset is what I need. Before the introduction of walebone, corsets were often boned with reeds, had only the back lacing to open or tighten the corset, and posture was maintained with a carved piece of wood, which I honestly have forgotten the name of, but the video floats somewhere on youtube.
Sadly, I am having difficulties researching as I lack a decently large library, and "search terms" is a rude word to me. My research abilities were built for a library, not the internet.
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Wow, thank you Bernadette for such an in-depth educational AND super entertaining rant about the trash fire that is fast fashion knock offs! And thank you for the mention about my own infringement issues as well, I appreciate it <3
I also want to pipe in here with a tidbit of advice - and forgive me if you've already covered it in your video and I somehow missed it: although we can't register copyright for garments themselves, we CAN however register the photos of our creations. I'm speaking to you, costume makers and clothing designers!
What's even better? You can register up to 750 photos in a single registration, as long as the photos were taken in the same year.
This might not enable garment and costume makers to fully stop overseas scam stores, but it CAN enable you to take some action.
You can file a DMCA on whatever platform your knockoff is being sold and that will get your photo taken down, which will limit the fraudulent store's ability to sell copies of your stuff.
You can also register any decorative element that is separable from the garment itself with the copyright office and take legal action if that element is copied.
For example: you make an original decorative leather embellishment that is your unique design that you've cut or sculpted and applied to the garment.
If someone copies that element of yours too closely on the knockoff garment they are selling, you can take legal action against them.
Tho like Bernadette says, it's next to impossible to fight these overseas companies but there are some things we can do to keep them out of the US market at the least, and off of social media advertisements.
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Very good job! I have learned something new. It seems that it is a pre-cursor "urban legend" about the Plague Doctor outfit having been attributed an earlier era than it actually came into existence. The argument is presented thoroughly, well organized and very convincingly. Similar to a lot of early Egyptology, Greek, Roman, Inca, Aztec and Khmer interpreted history now found to be incorrect, mis-interpreted and only in modern times with better forensics, more accurate "language" study and uncovering of new evidence we now have a more accurate history of past, lost civilizations.
The only disease that I know of throughout human history that enforced what we now call "social distancing" is Leprosy. it was more ostracization than voluntary "distancing" but it was more or less the same effect. I guess the severe deformation of the skin all over the body helped with enforcing "social distancing" to Lepers.
https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/leprosy
"Leprosy is an age-old disease, described in the literature of ancient civilizations. Throughout history, people afflicted have often been ostracized by their communities and families."
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This video gives me life! Thank you for making it! Thank you for including my little business on your list of Corset makers!
So many of us are speaking up about corsets and their various uses for various people, and it's so good to have you, Bernadette, on the forefront!
So many of us small independent designers have been saying for years and years that clothes should be made to fit your body and NOT the other way around! If you want a corset that has a historical purpose, PLEASE buy it from the people Bernadette mentioned, not from Ebay, Ali express and Amazon. If you want a MODERN corset to style it in a modern outfit while living your modern life, again, there are COUNTLESS independent designers who would be happy to make your dreams come true, no matter your dream. And if perchance, I am not the right designer to make your dream corset, trust me, I will recommend you another designer who could fulfill your dream. Because I know them and I admire them.
Most of us small independent designers know each-other and support each other as often as possible. We talk between ourselves, we advise each other, we give each other kind words and support when we see that one of us is struggling or going through burnout.
I have been struggling with mental health for a big chunk on 2020 and so many of my peers reached out with kindness and support... The world of making beautiful, high end, custom made garments it is must definitely not just about the money. We are all artists that have been honing our skills and our techniques for years, sometimes decades. At the end of the day, this is a labor of love for most of us and also our (sometimes only) way of making a living. If you want a masterpiece, you must find a an exceptional artist and pay the artist's price.
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Your wardrobe is so lovely, and fits you so well, both in terms of literal physical fit and also personality :). Two quick thoughts in response: 1. I’ve been sewing my own clothes for many years, but have only recently had a “come to Jesus” moment regarding sustainability in this regard. There is such a temptation amongst sewists to buy all the fabric all the time, but in reality, this can be just as bad as fast fashion in terms of waste and consumption. So, I’m trying to buy less, and higher quality, fabric. (Speaking of which, do you have any tips for ethical disposal of waste fabric? I’m trying to sew down my synthetic fabric stash, which isn’t good for cabbage, but I don’t want to end up in a landfill...) 2. For those searching for their personal wardrobe aesthetic, an easy and inexpensive way to do this is to try on clothing at the store, snap a photo in the dressing room, and then *not buy it*. Over time, you’ll collect photos of lots of different styles and silhouettes, and will help inform your style when you are ready to make actual purchases.
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As far as mustaches go, natural ones aren't typically this thick, we breathe quite well, it's eating that's the problem, at least during winter as beard sweat during the hotter months is maddening, so, those be shaving months 😬💀. But anyways, eating, yes, there is a constant brushing of mustaches hairs out of the way because for some reason the hairs are constantly trying to curve downwards while opening your mouth for the initial biting leading to the inevitable chewing on mustache hair ends 🥲.
Also if we wanna be technical on things, nah nah, this is definitely the weirdest/funnest thing you've done, all the other stuff did in fact have practical use..albeit..ever so slightly misguided and maybe done very slightly different than would have been done in the times they originally came from. 🤣😅
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Your response has been heard, and the knock-off dress is quaking!!!!! Oh the sass is making me smile.
So edit me has returned after a while of being away, and yes, fast fashion is in deed an issue that needs to be addressed. I've stopped buying my clothes, and have instead started making them, or turning the old fast fashion garments into rags or if they are simply well made, but not in my style, selling them, or giving them when I can to a charity shop. However I do not take all my clothes in one massive pile and drop them off. Firstly I spread them out, waiting a while for the charity shops to have a little less stock then normal, and then hand them in.
As someone who worked for four years as a volunteer in various charity shops, I can tell you, that me and a small team spent hours in the basement, or back room of the charity shop, sorting through bin bags of clothes, holding them up to the little grey lights, and thinking, is this worth it. If not it was binned, and if it was deemed appropriate, it was steamed, hung and put into the shop, where it would stay until sold. If it wasn't sold for say, about two weeks, we'd take it off the rack, and chuck it.
It hurt my soul to do this, even when I didn't know what fast fashion was, and I soon found myself picking up the old jumper or hoodie that had been rejected and buying it even if I hated it. I couldn't bare to see fabric go to waste. My mother would then turn it into rags or I would wear it, and the cycle would continue. I'm not saying that people need to stop giving things to charity shops, please it helps them so much, but the amount of stuff that I've seen that just get chucked is heartbreaking.
My Ted Talk is now finished.
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I'm going to give a nod to the quality of your research on all but one area here. You do exhaustive and accurate research. My one quibble is in the area of the Pilgrims. You might want to do some research into religious groups, as many had their own standards of dress or circumstances, kinda like the Amish today. The Separatists (Pilgrims) and later Puritans are one such instance. Many of the Separatists and Puritans were of the upper levels of society. Oliver Cromwell, after all, ruled England for some years. Shakespeare's wife was from either a Separatist or Puritan family, I'm not sure which, and many such families had large estates. That said, they sold all they had to flee to Holland and ended up in desperate poverty. They sank even lower by the time they came to the colonies. The Mayflower passengers were half saint and half stranger, because the saints had no money to hire the ship, and so they took on a number of fortune seekers to help pay the captain and crew. So coming up with a depiction of a Mayflower passenger is going to depend, first of all, on whether you are depicting saint or stranger. Secondly, their dress will be influenced by the upper levels of fashion and by the fashions of Holland, but also by their extreme poverty. I would suspect that gray natural linen and gray or white natural wool will be pretty common, because dying fabric takes time and time is money, even if you are using natural dyes. Some folks might still be wearing clothing that they made or bought before they came to Christ, but when those garments wore out, they likely replaced them with the lowest cost materials they could. These folks were reduced to eating soup out of hollowed out bread because they had sold all their dishes, so they aren't going to be wasting money elsewhere.
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