Hearted Youtube comments on Andrew Lam (@Lam) channel.

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  63.  @SadisticSenpai61  You are mostly correct as far as I know and hopefully soon you will be far less correct. The UK government, through a number of bodies, is reviewing building safety regulations right now, this includes Approved Document B, BS9991 and BS9999, with particular focus on tall residential buildings, and will be publishing more information over the next couple of years and the information coming out already is being reviewed by industry experts. Parallel to this, building fire safety is under review by major architectural/multidisciplinary studios and fire engineers. The new gateways for planning approval are already raising the standard of fire safety design and we will see the results of that in new builds as designers are now being held to a higher standard that the current standards and regulations, which is a little confusing for all, but will work itself out. The push for the ability for disabled residents to easily be able to evacuate a building without assistance is also making a difference, in particular with the New London Plan in regard to evacuation and fire lifts, although these high standards are also being applied to other projects in the UK. And on top of that there is the new standards coming out for the recording of fire safety information following the Golden Thread and including that in digital construction information, digital construction/BIM models coming from fire engineers, and the new addition of FIREie coming soon, which is similar to COBie BIM information, but for fire risk management. I could go on, but my comment is getting pretty long already. TLDR: Stuff is happening and the standard for fire safety is being improved in the UK in every way that the industry can think of.
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  75. A good video but I don't think you mentioned how the rubber itself has changed and improved over the years too(?) For example, all-season tires weren't a thing several years ago but now with improved rubber technology/compounds you have tires that can perform well all year round in summer and winter conditions. Like dedicated winter tires, all-season tires are certified for winter use by the mountain snowflake symbol on the tire sidewall.   Where I'm from with milder winters I think all-season tires are a good choice, and I have them on all my cars. In cold and wintry conditions the handling and safety is improved when compared to using summer tires all year round (which most drivers in my country still do). Obviously for places with harsher, longer winters you will get better performance by swapping between two sets of tires (summer and winter tires). Also maybe if you drive a sports car, and want optimal performance, then you would probably want to swap tires according to the conditions too. And I totally agree tires should be tested over an extended period of time, and not just when they are brand new and supple. I remember suggesting this on one of the popular youtube tire review channels a while back. Most of us will use a set of tires on our cars for a few years. Over that time not only does the tire pattern change but with weathering, sun light etc the characteristics of the rubber itself changes (often hardening) which affects the performance of the tire too, especially in cold conditions.
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  117. READ MORE for notes after 2 years of running the VIOFO A119 "V1". I bought the ORIGINAL A119 based off your review 2 years ago! That unit is still running strong and has taken over 1,000,000 minutes of video. I have the original V1 "pin style" GPS mount and it still works great, though I could see how some would say it disconnects when wiggled loose. I STRONGLY recommend VIOFO A119! Thank you Car Cam Central for your original video. Notes after 2 years of use for the original A119 - V1. - the software offers higher resolution settings than the hardware offers. This conflict will trigger the "SD Error" message and continous beep to notify that it is NOT recording. No big deal, so.long as you don't ask it to record in 2k when it can just HD. - I use and recommend a 128G memory card. - It can handle the temperature. I live in the Midwest and heat and cold extreme days can reach extremes of -10° to over 100°. Then consider that heat increased by the trapped heat in a vehicle. The original unit survived two years of these extreme weather and only shut down once after my truck was shut closed, parked outside daily, in the sun, during a week of 100° temps (130°+ in vehicle). Once aired out and cooled off, it powered right back up and has been going over since. - I DO NOT use the GPS feature as it can only make you guilty of speeding, nullify your insurance claim, or make you at fault for an accident. - I do use the microphone as it catches honking, music, and talking. THIS GOT ME OUT OF A TICKET once: I had been pulled over for faulire to wear seatbelt, written a $60 ticket, and I WAS wearing my belt. I knew I couldn't prove I'd had it on... I kept a copy of the video because I thought it was 'cool' to have the traffic stop on camera. I watched the video and the AUDIO off my camera had the 'click' of my buckle latching. It was enough in court to drop the ticket. Win! But that was the first real time I needed the video in 2 years. -insurance companies offer a discount on "permanently installed" dashcams. Be sure yours is adhesive to the window and the cable tucked-in and they may count it. Plugged into USB cig lighter port. Depends on your insurance. - if you push the "Hazard" looking button to trigger an 'event' recording, it starts recording and will protect the next 30 seconds of video from being deleted. However, it will not protect the immediate proceeding incident after which you push the button in response to. For example, if someone cuts you off in traffic and then you press the 'hazard/ event" button it will begin immediately recording a 30-second protected file. The protected video will show the events that occurred as you push the button and after. It will not protect the incident itself since you had not yet pressed the button. So unless you press the button in anticipation of something crazy happening, the crazy event will not be stored as a protected file, but will be accessible if the card is removed and file is retrieved before it is overwritten by loop recording. In short, if you forget to take a video off that wasn't protected, it will get overwritten.
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  599. Thanks so much for the post! As of today (03/11/2017), you would still recommend the A119? I moved to Georgia and the drivers here seem to be worse than anywhere I've experienced -> I am looking for a dash cam. It would be my first, on a budget, looking to spend under $120, but that should include an SD card (I think 32GB should do, since I won't be saving any interesting footage I don't think, only accidents). I am hoping to get a hard-wire kit, the unit itself and card for the money. It is also in GA, so heat is going to be an issue in the summer. Seems that A119 is a good option due to the capacitor, correct? I want to ask this: 1) You say you got the A119 for free. You say that you were not affected by that. Deep down, would you still rate it this high if you had to pay out the $100? 2) When I did my first search for dash cams, the Rexing V1 had 4.5 stars and about 3,600 reviews. I am big on reviews, it usually makes the decision for me, and the A119 has only about 200 for total of 4.0 stars. I do prefer an honest and in-depth review like yours, but how would you match them head to head? I saw in your other video that you wouldn't recommend the V1 due to the low heat resistance? I see that the A119 has been available only since July 2016 and I assume Rexing has had a longer market presence (hence the longer period for reviews and such). 3) If I do go the route of the A119, is the extra $10 GPS logger worth it? It seems that you cannot purchase it separately. 4) Would you recommend a certain hard-wire kit? What do I look for, the same brand, or anything that has a mini-USB?
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  600. Thanks so much for your reply! I think I am actually sold on the A119. You seem to really be for it (I am sorry, didn't mean to question your integrity in your reviews, I just know when I get a free product, I tend to rate higher). I have couple more questions if you don't mind - I'm going on a road trip on Friday and want to order this Monday: 1)+3) I kind of want the stealthiest way possible and it seems that the GPS allows for the cable to go upwards, correct? Rather than an awkward bent from the side. 2) I saw your review about the budget dash cams before I saw this one, I was just wondering if you had anything else to add aside from what was already in the video. My main thing is video quality (which you say A119 has better) and heat resistance for the Georgia summers (capacitor in it that is). 4) I appreciate your input on the hard-wire kits, but I don't think I can spare that in my budget. What do you think of this one? https://smile.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-MiniUSB-Fuse-Kit-M/dp/B01N0GR4ON/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489380845&sr=8-2&keywords=dash+cam+hardwire+kit Same company and it has a fuse tapper. I know you said in your article that it won't save my battery from draining. Basically my two goals for that are these: goal 1 - for the dash cam to start with the ignition being turned on, goal 2 - to hide wires and not have to have the 12V plug taken up (although I have two). I have had my car damaged while being parked - would this kit allow for the recording of the outside on the motion sensor function of the A119? I drive my vehicle daily, so don't think draining the batter would happen.
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  658. Many of us remember the firestone recall that ford explorers would roll over if a front blowout occured. I worked at a firestone retailer and as this recall broke out we got a corporate memo that explained that it was not the tires but an out of court settlement between firestone and ford that resulted in firestone taking the heat for 700 million dollars. Basicly ford paid for every tire we recalled plus a cushion for lost sales due to loss of consumer confidence. The recall was for the wilderness a t model suv steel belted 235×75×15 size tire. That particular tire had been used on chevrolet s 10, gmc sonoma, toyota tacoma, and 4 runners, mazda b2000, and other models sold overseas. Nobody had issues with tires but ford did and here is why. Ford engineers decided to use a twin i beam style front suspension that had been so successful on the full size pickup line. It was scaled down and lightened to operate under the explorer front end. They performed horribly and rode stiff and noisy because they did not allow for a change in steering geometry at different heights and conditions. For example heavy braking will compress the supension and the tires would be held at a tilted in condition(positive camber) wich is acceptable and does not have problems in handling. However a single tire blowout would result in the tire being held in an extremely negative camber wich would force the now exposed corner of the rim at such an angle that it would gouge into the asphault causing a rollover. Ford knew this was an issue but sold the vehicles regardless. It was also found that the customers complained that the ride was too bumpy and as a result ford dropped the operating inflation of the front tires to 28 psi. This was in direct conflict with the 45 psi inflation mandated by the tire labeling. That is the pressure needed to support the load that the tire is rated for. Underinflated tires result in excessive sidewall flex and an overheated condition occurs wich degrades the tire and a catastophic zipper rupture of the sidewall is what happened to some 390 explorers wich resulted in high speed roll overs. Unfortunately many were fatal and a class action lawsuit was lodged against ford. Ford turned and filed a lawsuit gainst firestone wich in all probability would have been dismissed leaving ford holding the bag so in an attempt to shirk responsibility ford offered firestone a large lump sum to take the heat. Ford then took the results of that finding and used it to defeat the class action lawsuit, or tried to anyway. Like i said in a previous post, i will NEVER own a ford product EVER!
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  709. Most of the commenters below have a limited understanding of electricity. And I suspect the people calling themselves engineers and electricians are not. Andrew's explanation is reasonably accurate, despite what many here claim. Bonding devices together, and grounding an electrical system, aim to do just one thing: return the current to the source. That's it. The goal is to interrupt the circuit quickly when a fault occurs. When the energized part of a circuit comes in contact with the bonded side (let's say the metal body of that toaster) it sees a direct path back to the panel. The current rises dramatically in microseconds, far beyond the trip voltage of the relevant circuit breaker, and within fifty milliseconds the breaker trips, de-energizing the entire circuit. You don't need to be home at the time; it's a virtually foolproof design. The Japanese system is ridiculously behind the times. A central GFCI is an active device, vulnerable to internal failure. It also plunges the entire building into darkness, which is exactly what we will not tolerate here in the West. Yes, GFCI receptacles offer good supplemental protection, but they should NEVER be the only protection. A properly bonded and grounded electrical system is a bulletproof, passive system that you can count on. A few other things: a ground rod and an earth rod are one and the same. 'Earth' is the European term for 'ground', just as a torch and a flashlight are the same thing. "RCD" is an ignorant term because there's nothing 'residual' about a fault current; we don't use that here in North America because it reveals a misunderstanding of the true picture. I'm a recently retired, fully ticketed hospital building systems professional, electronics technologist and ham radio operator (although this is the internet and anyone can claim anything!) I urge anyone and everyone who is interested to study Mike Holt's series of videos here on Youtube. His channel is called MikeHoltNEC. He is THE accepted authority on this subject.
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  790. First I'd like to say Ty for the review... I own my own car service / taxi and I've been looking for a camera that will show the entire outside & inside of the vehicle plus the ability to add an additional camera for the inner dashboard. Truth is when ur driving in the US one of ur biggest problems won't be passengers it will be police officers who claim u wasn't wearing ur Bluetooth headset when u was or u didn't use ur turn signal when u did or stop at a stop sign a few blocks back and if it's ur word verses a police officers in court regardless if u have witnesses or not they will always take the officers side... and u will get points on ur license plus have to pay whatever the fee is regardless if ur in the right or not and trust me that fee plus the points will cost u over time way more than a few hundred dollars would have on a good camera that u can load the proof u need onto a disk or flash card etc... Which is also why so many of us are looking for one u can hard mount to to the car so u can hide it somewhere in the vehicle and run a wire to wherever u hide the recording box at Unlike all these dash cameras that u can lol' just take and run with a hoodie over ur head or delete everything on it then hand it back to the driver along with a ticket "welcome to America" That said, if it has a cloud capability well then that will just make it even better and worth spending a few hundred dollars on. So If u see something like this please put it on one of ur episodes or mention it to the company's you talk too. I did subscribe to ur Channel and will be on the lookout for other cameras u compare and suggest.. lol' sorry for this extremely long comment / message 🚕 🙃
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  996.  @Lam  Hi Andrew, I don't know if you'll find any value in my answers, but here they are. 1) I found out about dashcams some years ago from Youtube's recommendations. Since then, and I'm not kidding, I've watched several hundred dashcam videos - (mostly crash videos. ;-p), but also lots of reviews. 2) I bought my first cameras about two years ago, but they were Walmart crap- cams, I've since upgraded to various configurations and prefer dual camera setups. 3) I tend to make a study of things that interest me. I understand that some people need to start from the beginning, and topics that seem very obvious to me may be news to others. Having said that, I like the details that may not be obvious to even experienced dashcam users. For instance, when I was new to the subject I did not know that there were power supplies that had adjustable low-voltage and cutoff timers. I'm actually in the market for an affordable unit that has the exact features of the Grdian, but I'm not willing to spend the $50 US they want for one. Whenever covering a topic, I like to know both the pros and cons. For example, using a CPL can be beneficial during the day, but since you lose about 2 stops of light, it will be a hindrance at night. I know time is valuable and I can tell you put a lot of time into producing your reviews, they have a very polished looks to them, however not everyone wants to, or can spend a lot of money on a dashcam, so perhaps budget camera reviews would be helpful to some people - as long as the expectations are kept reasonable. Being objective and not bias is extremely important to me. I have no allegiance to any brand of anything, I just want the truth. Lastly, I know this can be very expensive for reviewers like yourself, but I don't trust reviews where the product was sent from the manufacturer or seller. It's almost impossible not to show some favoritism when you get something for free. Hope that helped.
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  1118. Hey. I hope you are still reading comments. (I get to why I say that at the end) Firstly I hope you realize how good of a video this was. Super simple and innocent yet answers great questions. I watch lots of videos like this, and this style of video is called like the learning style of youtube (I forget the name of it.) But since Mark already found your video, it seems you are being ushered into this space. It seems fitting because you are so new to it but make such great honest videos. So, after all of that context, I just want to warn you to stay true to yourself and videos you want to make. We have seen really big, almost untouchable youtube channels literally shill their content just to make money from advertisers. It has happened with a driverless car company paying a huge youtube channel to basically not tell the whole truth. Now China has been paying travel youtubers to literally LIE. I just hope you can stay true to this largely innocent video style. In the world, there are so many interesting things to learn about. There can be so much content made from the world. You just have to show the world WHY it is interesting (that is where good titles come in. If you make high quality content but can’t draw people in to your videos, you won’t do well. But you can become a sell out and pump out cheap videos with sensationalist titles without actually taking the time of day to put in the effort needed to actually teach the truth.) I hope that you can stay true to this style and not “sell out”!!!! Again, great video.
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  1199. Hi Andrew, thank you for getting back in touch, this is what Viofo Australia replied to me, Dear Brian thanks for your contact. from your description we can tell it was simply a firmware glitch, all you gotta do is format your sd card on your computer into fat32 format and download the firmware which ending with .bin file from support page at www.viofo.com.au, make sure you select the correct model as the wrong model's firmware will not work. copy it to your empty sd card and insert into the camera without power connected. once made sure your sd card is securely inserted, plug the power cable in from in car power supply and let it start. camera will detect the firmware file and automatically do the job by itself and restart. once you have followed the right steps, it will upgrade the new firmware and back to normal function again. secondly, make sure you use high endurance microSD cards in dash camera as they are the proper cards designed specifically for their constant intensive video recording job, most of the sd card on the market now are designed for storage rather than handling heavy constant writing and re-writing jobs in dashcam or surveillance cameras. some of the more cost effective cards which causes less issues can also be used (like Samsung evo plus, transcend etc) but may sometimes still having data corruption or firmware glitches, which on the other hand may not be a big issue but we would like every of our customers have a good experience by choosing the right card. please avoid using Sandisk extreme or ultra cards at all cost as they have been reported causing more issues when used in dashcams than any other cards in the similar range.thank you. alternatively, you can follow the youtube link here for a better visual understanding, : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_sbSi-xiX8 That was a great help for me just means the A129 Duo Dual will be put on hold for a bit longer. Thank you Andrew for the information an advice you have passed on. Regards Brian.
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  1285.  @Lam  I'm a rideshare driver.. so decided it would be a good idea to get one. My first one was a cheap one I got a Walmart just so I had something.. needed it quickly, and just grabbed what they had at the time 2014/15 or so. Shortly after that I started researching different dash cams. My next one was a Mini 805, shortly after that I decide to get another cam since I had a another car so wanted a cam for that car too and I got a G1W-CB from SpyTec I believe. I then purchased the Viofo A119v2. Mostly based on your recommendation, and other videos I saw showing its very good video quality day and night . And now my most recent is a Vantue N2 Pro. I had been using, the old one from Walmart which had infrared lights on it, as my interior camera, the viofo as my front facing camera, and the g1w as my rear facing camera it made it a bit messy on the inside of the car , lots of wires to tuck away, but since I had the cameras and they all functioned perfectly I didn't see the point in replacing them with a central all in one system which are very expensive. Recently however the Walmart camera began to have problems with the SD card not always writing correctly especially when it was hot out., and since the interior camera is quite important as a Rideshare driver, so I decided to spring for the vantrue N2 Pro when it went on sale on Amazon for $80 off regular price. That takes care of front facing an inside, and I moved the mini 805 to the rear window since it was smaller and did not hang down into the cargo area, I had luggage occasionally hit the G1w and damage the ball mount. I ended up leaving the viofo a119, facing forward also, quite frankly the image quality on the vantrue has got a bit of a blue tint to it, and because it ends up being farther away from the glass due to the suction cup mount, and my windshield has some pitting I found that at night the glass is disrupting the quality of the video rather badly, that doesn't seem to happen on the viofo, I suspect because it's much closer to the glass. I also like the alerts that it gives if there's a problem and it gives me a backup front facing camera in case something goes wrong with the Vantrue which does not have the same kind of alert statuses for failure. So I just left viofo a119 in place, run the Vantrue right next to it, and the Mini 805 in the rear now. I also run the Lexar XC-1 as cards you had recommended.. I've never had one fail yet.. and one of them is from Dec of 2016 in use almost continuous. Hope that information helps.. if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.
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