Hearted Youtube comments on Engineering Explained (@EngineeringExplained) channel.
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As a engineer who has worked in PCV systems, the first time we saw the condensation/moisture problem from repeated starts was not in PHEVs and hybrids... but actually normal ICE vehicles in dealership lots. During the winter, we noted that some dealers would move cars from one side of the lot to the other side as they clear the lot of snow. Over 30-40 of these 'cycles', they end up with substantial amounts of water in the crankcase, and we had to instruct dealers to leave the vehicles on to fully warm up to prevent this happening. Typically in small amounts this doesn't cause an issue, but as you imagine, problems started to crop up when that much water has accumulated in the engine. This experience was really useful when we got into PHEVs, because we developed two things: a counter to force the engine to turn on after a number of 'cold starts' to force a warmup cycle, and then an algorithm to modify (shorten) the oil change interval minder if the engine is still not given the opportunity to warmup (say if the customer has constant short drives).
As a tangentially related topic, moisture in oil is also how some oil catchcan manufacturers mislead, or at least inflate, claims about how well their products work. Today's PCV oil separation systems are basically like science experiments and incredibly efficient under most circumstances, but they do not filter out fuel and water vapour (those go back into the intake to be ingested). So when you see forum posts from oil catchcan manufacturers showing how much fluid they're capturing from new/modern street driven vehicles not subject to high G-loads, chances are that it's mostly water and fuel, and they never put that fluid into an oven to evaporate it and show you the true amount of oil they're actually capturing.
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Here in Chile, in my company, we have more than 800 electrical buses with around 250KWh of original capacity, bought almost yearly from 2016 to 2023. We currently don't see a significant (statistically) degradation in capacity (SoH) even after 300.000 KM, but we take precautions: we avoid charging to 100% wen in the higher side of the city to avoid loosing the possibility of recharging on the road, we do a full charge at least once a week, we rotate the buses from different routes, we don't start routes with less than 30% of charge to avoid running out of energy due to unexpected problems on the road. We have some cases of degradation of around 3%, but once again, on a fleet analysis, degradation = 0% statistically.
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I appreciate a lot your work: it's great, keep going!
Unfortunately I have to say something about the topic of this video:
First of all It's true that Diesel engines have higher compression ratios resulting in higher Peak firing Pressures and consequently higher values of torque BUT this is not the "true reason" why CI engines have more torque COMPARED to SI ones.
In fact, while the SI engine works always stoichiometric (or even slightly in the rich side (relative A/R (Air Fuel ratio) ~0.9)), the Diesel engine cannot work anywhere close to the stoichiometric A/R due to t bad air utilization (min relative A/R is in the order of 1.2-1.3) thus resulting in ~20% less fuel injected (in mass) for the same quantity of air in the cylinder. Lower fuel injected means lower energy released in the combustion and so lower torque (this "base" 20% deficit is partially, but non totally, compensated by the higher compression ratio and higher Diesel specific energy). If you compare the torque figures of old naturally aspirated diesels with NA SI engines of the same time you'll verify what I'm saying.
The second thing you mentioned is not wrong but it's not that relevant: the combustion of a Diesel engine is more efficient when it tends to a constant-volume combustion (like in the case of the IDEAL Otto cycle).
For partial loads, the actual duration of the two combustion processes, even if they're fundamentally different, is comparable and I would say that there are so many variables involved (speed, temperature, fuel quality, turbulence in the clinder, etc) that is difficult to say which combustion process is the most efficient.
However, at high loads, the combustion process of a SI engine is definetly occurring faster than a CI one since the latter has to fight against a "mixing controlled combustion" during which fuels struggles to find air to react with. (In fact, CI engines rotate slower than SI ones)
For what concerns the third point you presented... it's just a false myth: the higher lever of a longer stroke is counteracted by the lower force resulting from a smaller bore. If you take the condensed formula to compute engine power you'll notice that bore and stroke are multyplied together giving as a result the displacement (longer stroke -> smaller bore).
So, the reason why diesel engines have much higher specific torque than SI ones is turbocharging.
Thanks to the very high allowed boost ratio it is possible to force a lot of air inside the cylinder and so it is possible to burn more diesel than gasoline (for a given displacement). This results in a much higher torque together with a more efficient engine. (Power output, unfortunately, si affected by the "slow" combustion process that doesn't allow the engine to rotate as fast as a SI engines).
This comment doesn't want to be against you.
You've always done a great job. It's just to make things a little bit clearer.
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Really nice informative video. A couple of additional comments from a former battery management system engineer, to the real nerds out there:
First, charging to 100% affects more than just range estimation. It also effects accuracy of cell-to-cell balancing, and hence actual range! Small leakage currents in some cells inevitably cause charge differences to accrue between different parts of the battery over long periods. The circuitry needs to correct these imbalances by "bleeding" charge off of the higher charged cells or cell groups. It can only do this if it knows which cells are more charged! If the cells aren't properly balanced one cell/group will hit 0% before the others, leaving energy on the table, and as a consequence the vehicle will estimate (and deliver) lower total range. Even NMC chemistry balances better when fully charged occasionally. Although more steep than LFP, the NMC charge/voltage graph's slope just isn't steep enough for <1% accurate balancing in the middle portion. You'll get up to a couple more percent range from NMC if it can reach 100% every so often and re-estimate charge there, and re-balance more accurately.
Second, it's important to understand that all battery management systems use "coulomb counting" (monitoring discharge current) almost exclusively to estimate range, at least when driving. This is not just for LFP, NMC absolutely does this as well. The cell voltage fluctuates wildly during driving as the internal impedance of the cell causes varying voltage drops under varying load and really can't be used for charge estimation very much at all while driving. In fact, even once the car is parked, NMC systems can't just immediately look at the cell voltage to recalibrate the current accumulator that tracks charge. Not only do cell impedances have time-dependent components that take minutes or even hours to stop exhibiting small voltage drops, but cells exhibit all sorts of irritating effects that temporarily change the cell voltage, such as hysteresis and other history dependent effects. These effects tend to go away over time (and faster when it's not freezing cold). So for NMC the car wants to be placed at 100% occasionally, and left there for at least 6 hours or so, and preferably not too much below room temperature. This will allow more accurate recalibration of the accumulator, and more accurate balancing. Now the actual algorithms are very complex, the car will get progressively more confidence that it understands where the charge level stands as the cells rest more and more, so even while driving the current accumulator would be updated if it disagreed wildly with the cell voltage, and the convergence just gets better and better if you give it more time with no current draw at a steeper part of the cell curve. [oh and it really should be plugged in for this so that the battery doesn't have to support ancillary equipment, and really has no load on it for those 6+ hours]
One last bonus point, not so much about delivered range but about range estimates. Although slightly sketchy feeling, it's actually also helpful to discharge an NMC car to low charge levels, where the voltage curve bends down, for the same reason of estimation accuracy. (It doesn't need to be 0%, but say below 15%-20%). Probably true of LFP too but no first hand experience with that. The same as near 100%, the charge/voltage curve is steeper here and the car gets a better idea about what's going on. Again, the car the needs to sit there for at least 6 hours or so and not be too cold to "rest" the cells and let their voltages precisely settle. This is ideally done in close proximity to the 100% "rest" described above(like the previous day or the next day). Once these two "rests" have happened the battery management system now has a very, very good estimate of the total capacity from 0% to 100%. It doesn't have to extrapolate too far, since it's just recently been near 0% and 100%, and thanks to the steep curve at the ends it knew exactly where it was! This allows the system to update the estimated amp-hour capacity of each cell group with confidence, and so better know how much juice it actually can hold. Again this won't give more actual delivered range, the car stops driving when the battery voltage of the lowest performing cell/group hits the low voltage cutoff no matter what percentage is displayed. But if you don't want to ever drive below 10%, and the estimate is off and pessimistic, you might be leaving range on the table by driving to a faulty estimate. Or even worse, if the car never ever sees low charge levels and has a really badly erroneous and optimistic estimate, you might believe you have another 10% left to make that last 30 miles of the trip, and be stranded 10 miles out. It's really hard to get a car into this state, but if you only ever let the battery see the range 60%-80% and never outside of that, it's possible. That's only a 3.3% range estimation error in a 300 mile battery pack but 10 miles is a big deal if the car stops driving.
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I'm very curious, if you don't mind testing (since you will have the vehicle for long term), could you see the minimum battery range? They say 150mi per charge, assuming that's if you are driving the vehicle sensably and not using all the electronics on max all the time. I'm curious what the full spectrum of use could be. From heavy accessory use (lights, AC, radio, etc), to heavy acceleration, etc.......to daily driving the vehicle.......to very light throttle, no accessories, etc. Heavy user/hot rodding, to hypermiling, if you will. I'm very curious what the range of, well, range lol, this leaf has.
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Wow, nice job. Best explanation I've every seen (MBA, car guy, master naturalist) speaking here. I liked how you touched on the used car too, since that is my bias. I also think in terms of purchase price and the added expense of electric, but I think it was correct to leave this cost (payback) out of the formula, since that is a different impact, but real. Bottom line, there is a difference and there is a period of time when the gas is better, but like you stated, in cases a short fixed period of time. Bottom line, walking more and using your vehicle less (like only at the track:) is the winning strategy.
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As an engineer, my best tool is the technician I work with. And I'm not saying that in any derogatory, "you're just a tool" kind of way. I mean it in the most humble, "I value your input" type of way. I have turned wrenches and I have learned to use new tools. In my first year as an engineer, I got to try the jackhammer, acetylene torch, and sandblaster, among others. Usually I try these things for no other reason than to demonstrate my dedication, interest, and curiosity to the technicians I work with. Doing so helps me to determine a couple of things: 1) how proficient is the technician, 2) can the technician teach others to do mundane jobs, and 3) is this task more of an 'art' or more of a 'labor'? Over time, you can develop a great relationship with coworkers that builds mutual respect and allows for simple and efficient communication of problems. You get less of the "the technician assembled it wrong" and "the engineer designed it wrong" type of finger-pointing scenarios. There do exist bad technicians. There do exist bad engineers. But when good meets good, careers can be accelerated and innovation can really happen.
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First off, thank you, I love watching and learning from your video. This video felt a little different than most of your other videos, because it didn't really feel like you gave us a summation at the end with you thoughts and opinions. I think I understand why you did this video the way you did, i.e. Optima kind of sponsored you to to this video, so you can't really say anything negative about their product; that is, if you even had anything negative to say. Anyway, it would have been nice to learn a little more about when you'd want to use the red top vs the yellow top batteries, i.e. truck with a wrench, high powered car stereos, etc. Also, what are the real difference between the yellow top and the blue top batteries? Thanks again for all the videos you post!
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Jason, I think you''re perfectly encaptulating a big problem that we as human beings are struggling with right now. This thing could be viewed as irresponsible, outrageous, unnecessary, wasteful... On one hand I'm sadened it exists, because it reminds me of the dire situation our planet is in. But on the other hand, there's not a single vehicle on the entire planet or that has ever existed THAT I'VE EVER WANTED MORE. My goodness, look at it. This is an engineering marvel. And yet, in 15 years, I'm sure it'll look primitive to whatever else will exist. And still I know I will be thinking about it and freaking out every time I see one on the road....
Is there a line that needs to be drawn, or is there a way we can sustain our selfish desire to create and experience such amazing machines? Is there a moral middleground that one day we will determine and enforce? Is this just the beginning of ridiculous, amazing technology or the end? No matter the outcome our futures have for us, I'm excited and hopeful we will make the right decisions, and still be making some awesome stuff.
Thank you Jason for everything you do!
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That was an excellent spoof, Reginald!... bloody well done. But it will come at a cost, and I knew it before I watched it, but watch it, I just had to. YT is now gonna start feeding me flat Earth BS, and my blood shall boileth over! I used to jokingly put this crap down to chemtrailing, but in all honesty, it is embarrassing to be a member of a race where such an extreme of, of, of, of... bloody insane denial can exist. FFS... too much! Good on you Jason : )
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I race electric race cars, 3 weeks ago I drove the NASA “25 Hours of Thunderhill” and I wish tire manufacturers made tires optimized for EV race cars, a 10% reduction in rolling resistance could easily have allowed us to go one more lap between battery swaps.
Great video, excellent summary of the design tradeoff challenges! In an EV race car wind noise predominates, my car is an open cockpit, so a small change in windscreen angle and and different helmet made a big difference, and then I could really hear the tires, which is great for the driver to be able to hear what the tires are “saying” at the limits of grip.
Oh, also, you are right about summer tires vs all-season, make the switch to summer tires when the weather allows, you won’t regret it.
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Hang on for a long one, but please bear with me. I've been researching LSDs for many years.
Engineering Explained, while the end goal may be to limit slip (why we tend to lump them all together into the category of "limited slip" diffs), the operation and feel of the various diffs is quite different.
Here's a few examples of different types of diffs and how they can react.
- A viscous diff reacts to an imbalance of wheel speed (the viscous fluid heats up and becomes more viscous causing more torque to be transferred from the spinning side to the non-spinning side with grip).
- A clutch type diff may be hydraulically activated, but electronically controlled (ABS wheel speed sensors used to detect wheelspin) and once activated it is basically a locking diff.
- A mechanically locking or permanently locked (spool type) diff doesn't care about wheel spin or torque imbalance, it simply forces both sides of the diff to turn at the same speed all the time. People often mistakenly call this a 50/50 torque split, but if one side of a locked diff has 0 traction then the diff is actually applying 100% of the torque to the side with traction, so any fully locked diff distributes torque anywhere from 0/100 to 50/50 to 100/0. Only an open diff has a true 50/50 torque split all the time.
- A helical gear torque biasing diff (TBD) doesn't react specifically to differential wheelspin (which can be easily proven by lifting one tire off the ground and applying power. More on this later). It reacts solely to a torque (or more specifically load) imbalance and provides a torque multiplier from the low traction side to the high traction side which gives it a unique handling characteristic.
Under hard power in a straight line here's how the various diffs will usually react.
- Viscous coupled diff doesn't activate unless one tire breaks away and starts to spin and it needs to maintain some wheelspin to keep up the torque transfer. You'll feel the steering wander before it engages, and stiffen up once it does which is why viscous coupled diffs are more often found at the center of an AWD system (in a lot of Subarus for instance) or rear (where effect on steering is minimal)
- Electro hydraulic clutch type diff will react similarly to viscious coupled diff, unless the software specifically forces the clutch to activate under high throttle before onset of wheelspin (some do), at which point they'll tend to pull straight ahead.
- A locking or locked diff will generally just pull straight given equal traction. If there's a traction imbalance steering will pull turn toward low traction side but general feel is "pointy" as in, it goes straight where you point it.
- A TBD will tend to stiffen the steering up and also pull straight, unless one side threatens to lose traction then it'll shift torque to the side with higher traction (even before wheelspin occurs) and you may feel it turn toward the side with lower traction.
Where things get interesting is what happens in a turn, while under power.
- Viscous coupled diff relies on differential rotation rates to activate, which happens naturally in a tight turn, so it activates even when there is no loss of traction causing a tendency to straighten the wheel as the diff transfers torque from the faster turning outside tire to the slower turning inside tire. It's not as bad as a locking diff but still the tendency is to self straighten. Again this is why they're rarely used in front diffs where they have the most negative effect on steering (only center and rear)
- Electro hydraulic clutch type diff, can pretty much do whatever the software wants it to do.
Using all four ABS wheel speed sensors and steering angle sensor and such it can easily detect whether the differential wheelspin is due to turning or wheelspin, and choose to engage or not. Generally though if it chooses to engage it'll transfer torque from outside to inside tire, again causing the steering to want to straighten.
Caveat: There are fancier electro-hydraulic diffs that link input torque to each side independently and they can pretty much steer the car themselves (rotate the car, hold a drift angle.. etc)
- Locking under load type diff, or perm locked diff will always try to force the inside tire to turn as fast as the outside, and since there's usually more traction on the more loaded outside, that causes the inside tire to scrub (spin slowly relative to pavement). Any time there is less traction imbalance, the steering will be extremely heavy and will always resist turning. Under hard cornering, they will cause increased understeer since you're losing all lateral grip from the always scrubbing inside tire.
- A TBD is unique among these, in that when the inside front tire lightens up due to lateral weight shift such that less torque would be required to spin the inside tire, the helical gears shift torque to the outside with a greater load. This torque shift to the outside tire causes the steering angle to remain fixed in the turn until you get off the power or force the wheel back straight by hand.
There are ways to confuse a TBD. In situations where the road offers severe changes in traction (say random patches of snow and dry pavement), you'll get a pretty strong feeling of torque steer as the torque transfers instantly from side to side, where an open diff would just lurch along mostly in a straight line, gaining and losing traction (since torque to pavement side always matches torque to snow side).
And because a TBD only transfers torque from low traction side to high up to the torque biasing ratio (e.g. 3 to 1), if you give one side zero traction (zero load) then the torque transfer is zero * 3 = zero. In other words, with one tire in the air, or on pure ice, a TBD acts like an open diff (proof that it cares nothing about actual wheel spin).
In this zero traction situation, the fix is to lightly apply the brakes (the ABS computer will do it for you) along with the gas, and then the diff transfers the braking force times the torque bias ratio over to the high traction side. Cars with open diffs often use the same trick to simulate an "electronic locking diff", but it's literally 3-4 times more effective with used with a TBD.
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Honestly, I thought all of these points came through in the video. But if you want to make it even more clear for folks, I'd suggest:
1. Stating at the beginning that certain mounting methods are acceptable for light duty use and that many aftermarket companies, even big name brands, are using those less secure attachment options on heavy duty pads in order to cut costs. For next time: condense your entire message into a sentence and get it out early; even if you want the rest of the video to feel exploratory in nature.
2. I imagine that many people will often outright reject facts that don't line up with their own experience. I don't know how well those people would respond to citing statistics of how many break pad attachment failures result in crashes in a given year, but that's the only thing I think you could throw at them without derailing the video. For next time: casually site your sources when you claim something (perhaps Kurzgesagt style; though they have an immense research budget...) and feel free to write off the viewers that leave because you told them something that they believe to be not so. In my experience, people with those mindsets (my own well-loved family members included) will never believe you until you shake their hand, befriend them personally, and share anecdotes with them about it happening to you. Seeing as how you simply can not do that for all 3.61 million subscribers, they are best left to their own devices. You'll never be able to predict what fact will trigger their sensibilities so just keep laying them out there and focus on other aspects of your channel, I say.
3. As an engineer myself, I totally understood the oven test as soon as you mentioned it. Some people who are less wrapped up in life-testing may need the statement spelled out very clearly that, "breaks wear thin from the contact with the rotors but all (what we're focusing on today)ultimately fail from being exposed to too much heat over time" and that, "leaving them in an oven at 550°F for 8 days is the equivalent to a lifetime of break pad ware." For next time: it can be crazy difficult to catch yourself starting to ramble in your own industries jargon. To be clear, I've watched lots of your videos and I think that you are very good at not doing that, by and large. But it seams like a familiarity with how lifetime ware is simulated would've helped those viewers from getting confused and most people don't have that knowledge. I imagine you have tons of engineers watching your channel as well, however. I really don't know how to distill that into a nugget of advice. You'll have to keep a closer eye on what you assume your audience already knows if you want to avoid that in the future—maintaining a balance between taking the time to break things down to their bare bones and keeping fluff that most of your audience already knows minimized so that you keep them entertained, engaged, and hold their attention for the whole video. That sounds rather tricky, to be honest.
Summary
Put the entire premise of the video into a sentence early and expand on it for the rest of the video.
Cite your claims (as best as you can) while accepting that some people out there just won't "get" it from a YouTube video and that's ok.
Check yourself for using acronyms, jargon, and more difficult to detect, knowledge of processes that a large portion of the population doesn't have.
I love the show and you asked for feedback, so here you go!
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Take a look at the intake valves, 2 of the 3 share a shaft. Your combinations should be 0 open, 1 open, 2 open (if you closed the single), or 3 open based on this. Best possible if packaging were to allow, would be, 0 open, 1 open front, 1 open middle, 1 open rear, 2 open (many combinations), and finally all open).
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I think we're missing the point here. In his video, he claims that detail oriented luxury features (found in GLS, X7, etc) are subjective features to him. What I think he's getting at is that being able to relax in the driver seat while being semi-driven around, in itself, is a luxury feature. You may see it as a tech. feature, but currently no other car does semi-autonomous driving as well as the Tesla's do. In that regard, as a driver, it can be a luxury feature to have less driver fatigue and be able to be driven around the interstate. Don't compare AutoPilot with ProPilot assist or GM Supercruise, nothing comes close to autopilot as of now. I still wouldn't call the Model X luxurious, but the safest, practical *for an EV*, and quickest SUV,
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Thanks for posting. I generally enjoy your videos because of the following things: Your personal integrity - you remain true to yourself and the way you present things. This is a highly regarded trait that subscribed for. 2nd You have a very good understanding of how things work (another thing I subscribed for). And last but not least, you always present your personal opinion, regardless of how "popular" it might be. While I agree with you on many things, at the same time I have a different, even opposing view, I fully respect your point, because it is a valid one. There are just reasons, why I would prefer the opposite, but that is not about "being right", it is about personal preferences. I am fortunate to understand English and German, even though none are my native languages. But I still prefer this channel, because of you. I have seen some German reviews, but yours covers many things I find important. If you ever visit Central Europe, contact me, I owe you a beer. :-) Best wishes, Erik.
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Jason, I just gotta say, I love your channel. Very informative and entertaining, and honestly much more in depth than any other channel that covers similar information. And on top of that, not once have I seen you have those absurd CAPITALIZED TITLES TO CATCH YOUR ATTENTION! It is really just, in my opinion, immature/informal. Maybe it is just me, but "How The 2020 Corvette Achieves Its Fastest 0-60 Ever" is so much more attractive and professional than "How The 2020 CORVETTE Achieves Its FASTEST 0-60 EVER!". Right off the bat, those unnecessarily capitalized words will have lowered my expectations for the quality of a video and the channels that have them lose the majority of credibility. Again, maybe it is just me.
Anyways, you, and whoever else helps bring this channel together, are awesome!
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As an semi-retired engineer / MBA and a guest lecturer at both a local university's graduate-engineering school and a local STEM elementary school this video does an awesome job of demonstrating what I tell both groups: Math is just a tool to help you understand something that excites you! Problem is we require and reward students with grades based on their ability to master the tools (math, physics, chemistry, metallurgy, statics, dynamics, etc) and and NOT for finding the thing that excites them. Need to flip education on it's head. Way to go Jason! PS I have been considering a used 2010-11 Audi R8-V10, but this new vette at $60K makes paying $80K for an 8-yr old car with reduced performance a real dilemma. Only plus to the R8 is it came w a 6-speed manual. Targa top on the new vette is cool, too. I think GM just kicked the knees from under the used entry-level sports-car market (lambo, R8, Porsche, Mclaren, MB, etc)
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It's funny to see that you're slowly getting annoyed at people who bring their broscience up in the comments. It took you years to reach this point, I'd have lost my sh*t way earlier. You're a very patient man, Jason, and as they say, it is the mother of all virtues.
Here's a question for you: what about diesels? I was under the assumption that, since they run lean, they use next to no fuel on idle. Here in Europe, they're super popular, even for small engines/city cars (my daily has a 1.5 turbocharged diesel). Surely, there's a tipping point where it becomes beneficial to shut the engine off, I'm just wondering if it's not significantly longer?
(PS: I'm a chemist so I'm quite capable of reading a paper if you find one... I must admit I've never looked for published papers in the automotive world, shame on me)
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