Hearted Youtube comments on Repairman22 (@repairman22) channel.
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The Ford Ts flathead is about the only thing that remains an astoundingly reliable mechanism. It’s true that the side valve arrangement makes an engine immune to valve drop and eliminates damage potential from extreme valve timing issues. Valve drop, by the 70s, was a virtually unheard of issue, but it can happen in OHV engines. The benefit of the flathead, though, is that you can use dirt cheap materials and not worry about it.
The multiple-spark system (called SOS in airplanes) helped with the bad gas available at the time, and improved starting with low-grade fuel. It certainly helped with starting especially, but with modern fuel is entirely unnecessary.
The T used a planetary transmission, which reduced its likeliness to strip gears, and it’s certainly less likely than even the most modern manual transmissions to strip out and have serious damage. But it was controlled by tightening cotton bands around the ring gears, and these go bad almost constantly. If it weren’t for the cotton bands, the transmission would have remarkable reliability even today. But because of the cotton bands and how they behave, the reliability is very low.
The fuel system is drastically improved by the addition of a fuel filter. The bladder device used on the T was sub-par even for its time, and it said in the Ts manual to filter the gas before it was even put in the car.
The oil slingers (called “spoons” here) were so woefully inadequate that the addition of an oil pump more than doubled the lifespan of the engine - when oil pumps were introduced they were seen as being the saving grace to reliability. People who lived in mountain states used to fill them so full of oil that they would smoke as if they had blown rings, so much so that bystanders would think that the car was on fire, and this would wind up doing damage all on its own. In some places people associated oil pumps with clean air.
The carburetor was finicky and didn’t have an air filter. If dust gets in it’s like grabbing sandpaper for rings. And in many places there’s dust, including on earth. Finagling the carburetor to turn on the car made the car difficult to start. I’ve had experience with crank-start engines that have finicky carbs and they’re an absolute nightmare to get running. The introduction of electric start seems to us as a footnote in history but to the people at the time it might as well have been a gift from god himself.
There is the problem of having to back up hills because of the gravity tank, but that’s not a reliability issue it’s just inconvenient.
The lack of a water pump is a nice little niche, but that’s because of the low power of the engine vs. its surface area and size. Anything even slightly more substantial needs a water pump. It’s cool that it doesn’t need one, for sure, but no modern engine can do without it, besides something that’s air-cooled. If the Ts engine were designed today (in fact, any engine in any riding lawnmower has made the same HP since the 80s) it wouldn’t have water at all, it would have no water plumbing nor radiator and would just be air cooled. The cooling system on the T is actually quite a lot more complicated than any equivalent engine designed today.
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The best thing about the model T was that unionized workers in that age could afford to buy one. It was a terrible car, but, as someone else pointed out, better than a horse. My grandmother's father owned one and drove it around Florence, Colorado. They had to fix flat tires regularly, and as someone has said, back up steep hills because of the gravity feed fuel system. If the engine backfired while you were cranking it, it would snap your arm, a common injury in that time.
Yes, it was well engineered for its day, but a model T cannot handle modern traffic. It does not have enough power or good enough brakes to drive on a freeway. It pollutes like crazy. In a crash this car would come apart, and with no seatbelts you would lose your teeth or worse on the steering wheel. I would not want a family member driving one. These belong in museums.
I've been driving and fixing cars for nearly 50 years and here's what I know: The cars of today are the best in history. Comfortable, reliable, powerful, energy efficient, and safe. Virtually zero maintenance for 150000 miles and many many times safer than a model T or even a car from the 70's. And the electric cars that are arriving now are better yet, wayyyy better. Soon self driving cars will take disabled and older folks safely and conveniently where they need to go. I have several family members who cannot drive so this will be a new time of freedom for them.
The model T made car ownership possible for the masses, a wonderful freedom. But let's not get too nostalgic. My next car will run on sunlight and drive itself when I'm too busy or bored to do it. It will be safe, quiet, fast and efficient.
I'm looking forward to the future.
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You should mention the VW in competition, i.e., the Formula V, open wheel, single seat road racer, one of the longest running classes in racing history, alongside Formula Ford. VW's were prime targets for modifying as well. I installed a 1600cc Porsche normal engine in one, back in 1966. A year later, I created the 'ultimate VW performer,' when I replaced that pushrod engine with a 1500cc, four-cam engine out of a 550 Spyder. When completed, I tested it to 7000 rpm in fourth gear, without question..., the scariest thing I've ever done on four wheels!
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You can add to your very good analysis that when having a little leak on a rocker covers on the vw , it would drip on the exhaust bringing smell and fumes inside the cabin , where on the 2cv exhaust is by the top driving to a clean heating system.
The vw rocker cover cork gasket gets easily sucked in leeding in a major leak if not changing the kork gasket at evry oil change , why , because there is nothing holding the gasket in position.
Even torked to its 300 newton meter value the flywheel single center main bolt would come undone if not using locking thread compound.
When the thermostat would fail , it would close the shaters leeding to overheating , to avoid this , remove the thermostat and block the shaters permanently in open position.
Also , do not use ngk plugs because they do not hold well temperature , use Bosh or Champion spark plugs because an air cooled engine can reach up to 250°c température and cheap plugs will put you in trouble.
On vw air cooled , noisy tapets needs to be often adjusted where on 2cv this problem do not occur.
Vw 1300 air cooled goes ok .
1500 engine is also quiet ok.
1700 engine overheat going up the hill.
2000 engine is a desaster in overheating.
I worked for a specialised garage in vw air cooled in uk.
Panhard air cooled and Citroën air cooled , what a class.
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Hi, Repairman22, Thanks for your discussion on the split piston ICE. The main idea for it is the huge differences between the gas pumping exhaust and intake strokes and the heavy compression and power strokes for the ICEs. If we split these two functions the engine can run at 1/2 of the rpm for the same work otherwise it will produce 2x (actually 2.5 to 3 times torque). So the crawn section can be redesigned to run at somewhat higher speed with lighter system, since it just pump gases around. Basically, this design make an different hybrid of different kind. Other issues such as: 1. windows in the skirt is not away needed or just a litter cut is enough. 2. the cooling is much easier when stronger and thinner crown is used. 3.there is no oil leak issue if the piston rings are OK, 5. the "extra moving parts basically is the extra cylinder, i.e. i4 becomes v8 (or 2.5 to 3 time output), 6. The engines would run at half rpm, not the 1000rpm, 11. the push-down spring has the help by the the cylinder press at high rpm when the engine is loaded. The crown (piston-train) has about just a little high speed or the same depending upon what differential strokes are designed. The crown section is only to pump the gases around, which much, much lighter than the pushing the whole vehicle around.
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It’s an interesting engine, but like lots of French engines and cars , seems to lack any consideration when it comes to maintenance or repair.
It’s like they though ‘how can this be made as hard maintain as possible?’
The points for the ignition timing are behind the flywheel. Completely inaccessible. Good location? Not.
I hate French cars, everything seems to be designed to be in the worst possible place, nuts and bolts go in backwards, and hit the chassis, but if they went in the other way they would come out easily.
It’s not accidental, it is deliberate. They want to make the repair times as long as possible, so they can charge 5 hours for a job that could be done in 1 if they just used bolts instead of studs, or studs instead of bolts, etc.
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@repairman22 glad to hear there are still real people narrating, the amount of videos with no human voice are quite worrying from the point of view that we, as people, should still be willing and able, more capable of making a good, well read, pertinently expressed narration, with touches and nuances that AI has yet to accomplish.
I think, w.r.t. the 4 stroke comment, I was, as some people might, considering each of the 4 stages of the cycle as a crankshaft revolution, rather than happening in a downstroke or upstroke of the piston.
Thanks so much for pointing that out!
I have watched several of your other videos too, like Ford Model T, VW Beetle engine, 2CV engine, Titanic, I think it was, a fire engine truck, et al, and your work is a joy to consider, and helps one understand so much more than was once possible when I was a youngster, and graphics were mostly static pictures, with slight descriptions.
Best wishes!
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