Comments by "eDoc2020" (@eDoc2020) on "In Defense of the Switched Outlet" video.

  1. Extension cords!
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  2. All the US light switches I've seen are rated for at least 15 amps. Maybe not really old ones but the cheapo sub-$1 ones at the store are certainly rated 15 amps. Whether or not it's wise to run them at 15 amps is another matter.
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  3.  @harshnemesis  What do you mean? Turning on floor lamps from the entrance to a room is useful anytime you want easy access to light. It's literally the reason we have light switches instead of switches at the light socket. Keep the lamp's own switch on all the time and it's easy.
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  4. That would definitely be a poor wiring decision. If you have overhead lights and a switched outlet it's definitely better if they have separate switches.
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  5.  @run2thestore  I'm guessing the downstairs bedroom opens up into the landing area. If that's the case maybe it originally had a 3-way switch but it was replaced with the wrong type of switch (or an incorrectly wired 3-way).
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  6. IIRC Code requires that if you have extra switched outlets (AFAIK all switched outlets outside of dwelling units) you put a label on the outlet saying it is switched.
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  7. That's pretty common here (US). Mainly hallways and staircases.
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  8.  @GeorgeVCohea-dw7ou  I've also run into a situation where a metal object crossed the plug. In this case it was an extension cord but and a metal hanger on a shelf but it was still something.
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  9. To be more accurate the code requirement (as of the 2017 NEC) is to have fixed lights in every room. An exception is provided if you have a switched outlet but this exception is only valid in certain room types. So the bathroom and kitchen need ceiling (or wall) lights but it's up to the designer if your bedroom and living room have switched outlets or overhead lights.
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  10.  @HCkev  Even if the dimmer's all the way up you really shouldn't power electronics with it. The sharp leading edge can be super stressful on capacitors.
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  11. I've never personally been somewhere with switched outlets AND overhead lights in the same room.
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  12. You can only add an outlet at the switch location if it's fed from the switch (or is post-2011 NEC). Oftentimes switch boxes will have hot and switched hot but no neutral. Actually now I realize even if fed from the outlet side you can just rewire it there. But then you have the problem of not having a switched light which is code required.
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  13. ​ @natehoy6924  Before the 2011 NEC you didn't need a neutral at the switch location. This would be the usual case if the power is fed at the outlet side. However if you are wired this way you change the connections at the outlet and then the previous switch location is a permanent on power point.
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  14. That doesn't seem right. Do you have a light switch nearby that doesn't do anything? Assuming you're using US-style wiring somebody probably replaced an outlet while neglecting to break the tab. This will most likely be one with one wire on the neutral side but two on the live side (and a ground).
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  15.  @LexarVN  That's really weird then, a room with no light switches?
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  16.  @paulkurilecz4209  You can definitely have multiple outlets on a single appliance circuit. And especially since they're living in an apartment there's a chance the fridge is actually outside of the kitchen area, or at least what was the kitchen area when it was originally wired.
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  17. Are you sure about that? Do you have a bathroom
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  18.  @jonanderson5137  I could see it potentially happening if the magic outlet is worn and defective in such a way that pieces no longer are in proper contact if something is plugged in. However I can't see the switch being fed from an outlet on the other side of the room unless there are only the two outlets in the room.
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  19. Of course that only makes sense when all your cords are individually fused.
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  20. Bluff detected. It's impossible to bend the prongs of UK plugs. Of course I've never tried but clearly it is much more difficult than bending the pins on US plugs which depending on the style is already pretty difficult.
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  21. What you want is what was done with some old X10 modules: flick the power off and on to toggle the state. If you have a switch at the wall and on the lamp each of their switches becomes an independent control more akin to a 3-way (called 2-way in other countries) setup. You'd need to remember to put everything back to ON but this is probably easy to get used to, at least easier to get used to than what Alec is doing now.
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  22. Was it an old apartment? Back when 99% of what you'd have plugged in was a light it would be convenient to have everything switched together.
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  23. If you've ever seen a US plug you'll know we never have sleeved pins. Worse is that many plugs, especially older ones, have the pins surprisingly close to the side of the plug.
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  24.  @anthonychallis2472  We can all agree your plugs are safer (as long as you don't step on them). Somehow I've never managed to shock myself with 120v on a plug but when I shocked myself on purpose in a controlled environment it wasn't too bad. I also haven't tried 240vac but I have touched 220vdc by accident and it was much more spicy.
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  25.  @paulkurilecz4209  Based on the discussion of double-gang plates I would assume they do have overhead lights.
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  26.  @kenbrown2808  The modern adapters just mean that now you have an entire laptop power adapter as a wall wart. But even without wall wards, right-angle plugs are still a thing.
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  27. I bet you have overhead lighting in the bathroom and kitchen. If not overhead then fixed wall-mounted which I guess would technically also be overhead.
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  28. That only works if you get a switch installed there when the place is wired. And then if you put the bed somewhere else it doesn't work anymore.
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