Comments by "eDoc2020" (@eDoc2020) on "A Complete Beginner's Guide to Electric Vehicles" video.

Going uphill uses tons more battery, but going downhill actually recharges the battery. Assuming you're making round trips you shouldn't lose much overall range.
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Not too much. Like an ICE car going uphill will consume much more energy but unlike an ICE vehicle you can use regenerative braking to recharge going downhill.
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Yes that's right. The absolute minimum allowed for new single-family homes is 100A and this gives us 24 kilowatts. In recent decades 200A is more common. And yes there are limits. My service may be good for 48 kilowatts but I don't think the distribution transformer it's connected to is rated for more than 50.
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Dedicated thermoelectric power plants can extract much more energy from fuels than the average ICE can. Coal plants are usually around 33% and natural gas plants are usually over 40%. A car engine averages around 18-20%.
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Well most of those things don't affect the cost at all. He's also using white wire for a 120v leg. It should technically be marked. Regarding cost AFAIK a GFCI breaker is under $100 and a neutral isn't needed if you don't have a 14 receptacle, such as if it's hardwired or using a 6 receptacle.
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I thought Teslas air conditioned the batteries if needed while charging. I'm surprised that it couldn't charge. I presume that was the EVSE cutting out instead of the car itself. But why would the EVSE cut out? 60 Celsius operating temperature is acceptable for most electronics and that's 140 Fahrenheit.
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@ryanphillips7064 That's basically all it is, but it also works in reverse so you recharge if you go downhill. Obviously mechanical transmission, motor efficiency, and battery efficiency are also at play so it's not a 1:1.
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Even with unlimited money I would suggest against having a DC fast charger at home. The equipment is much more complicated than a Level 1 or 2 charger so you could have it breaking down or needing maintenance at inopportune times.
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That's a function which the automakers could easily add. A likely way they could do this is using GPS to know if you're parking at home. If you're parked at home with a depleted battery it would send a notification if you don't plug in within a few minutes.
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@Yay295 Bringing a gas powered generator isn't a silly idea if it's for some "just in case" situations. An example would be going on a road trip where there are charging stations but upon arrival the chargers are inoperable.
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I thought Shucko plugs were good for 10 or 16 amps. In any case 6 amps should keep everything cool.
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@Irthex Heating is determined by I²T, current squared times time. I'm not sure how it works in Europe but in the US our standard plug is nominally 15 amps. At full capacity we can only use it for 3 hours because of heating but if we only use 12 amps or 80% capacity we can run continuously. Do you have electric space heaters available where you live? If so, check their wattage. That's an amount which can be drawn continuously for an extended period of time.
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@tshirley05015 For context the US used 3.93 trillion kWh in 2021 according to the Energy Information Administration, or 10.77 billion kWh per day.Your math is assuming everybody drives the full range of their car every day which is not the case. For a better number you should look at the total miles driven and the energy consumption of EVs per mile. I did the math a while ago and IIRC switching everyone to EVs would only add around 10-20% to the total electricity usage. For context according to according to the Energy Information Administration, the US used 3.93 trillion kWh in 2021. This comes to 10.77 billion kWh per day.
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@johncoops6897 True but it's not worth worrying much about. Of those HVAC is the only substantial load and it seems these don't need to work very hard if you're not moving.
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@johncoops6897 General car electronics are about 300 watts on the Prius. Even if you are using 1kW it's still like you're only driving 3mph. For the HVAC, It's what Alec said.
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If you are charging from a 100% efficient fuel-fired plant then MPGe would be useful in that way. Otherwise it's useless.
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Technically NEMA 10 receptacles are ungrounded and are only permitted in legacy installations. If you have one you can likely switch to a NEMA 6 receptacle without changing the wire or breaker (although you may need to move a wire in your panel).
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It depends. Many plug-in ones have 14-50P plugs which require a neutral (so 8/3). Most hardwired EVSEs (and all with a 6-50P plug) don't need a neutral and so can use 8/2 cabling. Something else to consider is aluminum wire. I believe 4 AWG is the smallest allowed which can carry more than 50 amps. It's more difficult (and thus expensive) to make proper connections with Al wire but for a longer run the lower wiring cost is likely worth it.
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I think your math is wrong. Your costs are showing 300 kWh which is way too high. It should be closer to one tenth that.
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@theJellyjoker You probably did a multiply instead of divide. My math: (88.9 mi) / (3 mi/kWh) * ($.063/kWh) = $1.8669 Seeing that number you actually just had a decimal point in the wrong place.
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@theJellyjoker I don't like electronic garbage either. If you end up needing a new car you might be able to unplug some of the sensors to disable the unwanted features.
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You might be interested in EV conversions, more or less the same as engine swaps. You can even keep your old manual gearbox. With custom built setups there's also little vendor lock-in. You can mix and match parts from wherever you want.
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Why would something with a ton of gasoline-based energy still need an external boost to get going? In an EV all the control circuitry runs from the 12 volt supply. Most important here are the battery contactors which physically disconnect the battery when not in use or if a fault is detected. Unless the contactors have a steady 12 volt supply you don't have a high voltage supply at all.
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That's a question for another video. Here's one bit for the future: using V2G functionality EVs can actually reduce stress on the grid by load shifting.
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Generating green hydrogen is not very efficient and neither are hydrogen fuel cells. Using green hydrogen as a primary energy source on cars just doesn't make sense. If in cars it would likely just be as a secondary range extender.
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Unless you have a receptacle on its own dedicated circuit, and have other receptacles to supply code required outlets, this won't be an option.
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