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Mikko Rantalainen
Project Farm
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Comments by "Mikko Rantalainen" (@MikkoRantalainen) on "Project Farm" channel.
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My take is that it seems that powerstack battery did very well for the power part. However, the capacity is pretty small and price is very steep so if you're not willing to pay premium for the weight/size, you should get a regular 5 Ah battery instead. Great testing as usual!
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0:15 Here in Finland, all cars older than 5 years have mandatory yearly inspection and you cannot legally drive any car with that much slop in steering (or in suspension in general). Old cars do not have sloppier steering here than say 7 year old cars if they are street legal. Even a single sloppy ball joint in the steering parts results to failed inspection and if the car is otherwise drivable, you get 30 days extension for the car to fix the issue and re-inspect the car. If you fail to repair the car, it's illegal to drive the car on public roads after those 30 days.
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How about sanding stone?
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I have to say that my limited experience with different pliers also says that the Knipex is the one you want if the price is not a problem. Especially the low amount of handle wobble (high precision axle) is worth noticing with Knipex products.
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I agree. That tools is a perfect combination of simplicity and accuracy. As long as you have working hand muscles, you don't need motors for this stuff. And since it also cuts the depth gauges at the same time, it's usually the fastest tool for the job.
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I would have never thought that you can make an interesting video about a gas cans, but did great job nonetheless!
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Great testing as usual! I think you should include a test where blade is heavily damaged (like try to cut a concrete block with 10 kg pressure with it) and then sharpened. In my experience some manufacturers make something called "edge harderning" which allows sharpening the blade only a couple of times and it cannot stay sharp after that because the hardened part of the metal has already been removed by sharpening / reshaping the blade. I'm not sure if this edge hardening is done to reduce manufacturing costs or to make the blade safer because it will not snap/shatter but just bend under too heavy tension.
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Yeah, that would be interesting. I would like to see torsion tests for cases where you have to reach nose first and rotate handle like a screwdriver. Low quality needle-nose pliers slip because the grip opens sideways.
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@ProjectFarm It might have been good to mention torque requirements for thise tools. I understood that annular cutter requires a lot of torque but how much you actually need? It seems that you can find drills with max torque between 30 Nm and 250 Nm in stores.
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@benthurber5363 And sometimes the space is so tight that the physically larger battery makes it impossible to use the tool. For such cases, you want small battery.
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Nice comparision. It seems to me that if you only need up to 120 Nm of torque and you don't mind the trigger lag, the cheap copy is pretty okay overall. I think most people getting an impact wrench want more than 120 Nm of torque, though.
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@stephensarkany3577 Oh, I definitely didn't know that! I was assuming that annular cutter requires at least as much torque as regular twist drill with similar diameter.
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I agree. Especially some kind of test how well the chisel keeps the edge when not misused. I got some cheap chisels and they were otherwise great but lost edge too fast even when touched by glued wood only.
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Have you tried to use some of these rust removal fluids instead or in addition to penetrating oil to remove rusted nuts? If they penetrate into the thread, I would assume removing the rust would help a lot with removing the nut.
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Great review! I would have wanted to see two additional tests: (1) heating efficiency on induction stove (the more aluminium you have in the body, the less well it will heat on induction) and (2) test to see how hot the handle gets, for example, heat vegetable oil to 200 °C and see how long it will take until the handle gets to 60 °C. Maybe take 3 top pans and make a spatula test next? Traditionally a thin steel spatula is the best but it will scratch many of the non-stick pans so are there any worthy contenders? Here in Finland, plastic/composite spatula by Fiskars has been the least worst I've used but those are pretty expensive and easily shatter if you ever overheat the spatula. Maybe a thin steel spatula with polished/rounded edges would be safe to use with even the pans that had the softest coating?
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It seems that price correlates with the quality surprisingly well here. One interesting test would have been how much it matters for accuracy if you turn the bolt slowly vs rapidly while trying to reach e.g. 70 Nm? That might be hard to execute with high accuracy, though.
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@AcrylicGoblin Nope, the inspection is about making sure the parts that are important for safety haven't rotted away. As long as the rubber seals around ball joints haven't failed, the ball joint should work perfectly even if the car is 30 years old. And if a ball joint fails, a new one costs typically 30–50 USD. In worst case, a full set of all ball joints and suspension arms for the front of the typical passanger car costs around 1000 USD so you don't need to replace the whole car, just the broken parts. I'm driving 25 year old and pass the yearly inspection with flying colors as long as the suspension isn't broken. (And once you are familiar with the car, you'll feel that the suspension is not perfect long before you fail the inspection.)
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@ If you check Our World in Data info for "Death rate due to road traffic injuries, 2000 to 2019" you'll find out that US has 12.7 deaths per 100K people and Finland has 3.9 or about 70% less. Sure, some of that could be just skill issues but having broken cars in traffic surely makes a difference, too.
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Great review! It seems that Makita is the way to go if you have the budget, otherwise go with Stanley.
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I agree 100% that wrench shouldn't bent to avoid fracture. I would have wanted to see even more space in the corners of the wrench. In my experience, really tight wrench with heavily cut corners damages the fastener the least. One thing you could have tested in addition to the tests demonstrated here is hitting motion with these wrenches. When a brake line fitting is rusted, you typically want to turn the wrench with medium force and then hit the wrench repeatedly with a small hammer. For this case, too, a very springy wrench will not fail but it cannot open the fitting either.
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In my experience, the only reason to use vinyl gloves is that those are dirt cheap. If you need to do something that's sure to mess the gloves with glue or something, that's good solution. Expect them to fail in 5 minutes if you actually try to do anything. I've had best results with automotive nitrile gloves for generic use but the price is much higher. Edit: those Venom Steel gloves sure looked very durable! I think my current gloves from different manufacturer have very similar features to Grease Monkey in this test. Also, could you add timestamps to the description so that YouTube creates automatic chapter marks. It would make it easier to find graphs and different tests again.
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If you don't mind the price, the best glue is: Scotch for glueing metal, Loctite for all glueing plastic
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Great review! I have to say that I'm pretty disappointed that even something as simple as a pressure gauge has this much variance between manufacturers. The pencil style testers were surprisingly reliable as long as the parts stayed together.
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Considering that all the metal insert were stronger than aluminium threads, it seems that if you have aluminium structure and want max strength, you should use inserts for all the threads from the start.
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The obvious question remaining: how about using electrolysis when rusted parts are submerged in Evapo-Rust? If pure Evapo-Rust is not good for electrolysis, add salt directly to it.
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Interesting tests! Could you do a similar test for some oils designed for diesel engines? There fuel contamination is even more common especially when the engine is cold but as diesel fuel is not a solvent in itself, I would assume the results are less serious. It would be great to see practical tests about that, though! Also, cranking a diesel engine in cold conditions is very hard for the battery and any little improvement you can get from the oil in cold cranking helps to get the engine running. I live in Finland where it's not uncommon to see days with -30 °C during the winter and we have to drive cars in those days, too.
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Great review! I wish the Lansky had even cheaper set without the desk stand. All you really need is a clamp and the holes to guide the rod. You could just as well hold the knife by the handle of the knife while sharpening it. It could even include only medium and fine stones.
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Great review and it clearly shows that it doesn't make sense to pay for integrated tire inflator because dedicated inflator will only cost about $20. GOOLOO GP4000 would be winner in my books but NOCO is obviously the best product if cost doesn't matter. One test that would have been interesting would be to fully charge the starters, then leave them in storage for a couple of months, then leave then in freezer for 24 hours or more and then do the bench test. I'd love to have an unit that I can keep in the trunk during the winter, fully charged, and trust that it can output enough power even during a cold day if needed.
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Great review! That Smith & Wesson knife is $9.99 in the official store right now so it has even better performance/price ratio. Too bad that they don't seem to ship to Europe.
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Back in the old days, Duracell actually had warranty for their batteries here in Finland which declared that Duracell will pay for the repair or replacement of the damaged device if their batteries leak. During that period, not a single Duracell battery ever leaked in any device. Nowadays I use rechargeable NiMH cells and those do not leak either.
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Sadly, I wasn't surprised to find out how much most brands lied in the energy storage (capacity, mWh). As usual, the cells that exceed the label (Vapcell) are the best. For NiMH cells, I've got best results with Varta. They unfortunately seem to have poor manufacturing tolerances and maybe 1 out of 4 cells dies young. The ones that live longer, seem to keep their capacity for pretty long.
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This content speed or even slighly slower is perfect. No need to make shorter videos as long as you have great content for a longer video.
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I agree that it makes videos longer but at the same time, I'm grateful for every item included because it makes more probable that I'm familiar with more than one item already.
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@motov8-garage832 Right angle adapter that can take impact hits and fit in small spaces would be a really valuable tool. Probably both for practical use value and cost, though.
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One thing that was missing from this test is to verify if these products attack other metals. For example, if you have zinc coated bolts, will the product eat away all the zinc? How about aluminium? You often have to remove rust from items that have mixed metals and you cannot use a product to remove rust if it destroys the other metals.
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I was a bit disappointed with Milwaukee and Makita failing. Those are pretty well known drill manufacturers and should be able to provide at least similar quality to Bosch. The DeWalt crushed the competition on this test, though.
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Great test! IKEA seems to be the best option and Duracell next due its higher price.
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1:00 That breathability test was genious!
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Good test, as usual! One can only dream about Knipex pliers with Vamplier shaped jaw surfaces for better gripping and Fujiya cutting knife metal hardness. I hope those manufacturers would copy best parts of the competition.
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Great review as usual. I wish you had included some thick web drills. Some report that Drill Doctor will grind totally incorrect edge for those.
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Thanks for making this review. I have to get a new toaster and it seems that GE has best bang for the buck. And none of the toasters are perfect so it doesn't make sense to pay more. I was pretty disappointed that none of the toasters were able to have even result with 1 and 2 toasts in the toaster – either toasting 1 will burn it or the toaster will never have even result for any toaster count. And it's just basically bunch of resistive wire and a electromagnet! The only way to have bad toasting result is to put the wire in stupid location inside the toaster.
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Is there any real reason for the 30 degree edge? I would assume that if you go closer to 20, the grass would cut even nicer but the blade will dull faster.
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12:30 If you paint the cleaned parts with bright red, you get instant +10 HP in bystander's minds.
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Great tests as usual. One thing I would have wanted to see would have been to test the plastic ramps while frozen. I would expect steel ramps to keep their strength in cold climate but plastic ramp might crack easily if plastic is suitable for warm weather only.
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I wish a cheap beam type torque wrench was included in the test (the variant with a long static needle and totally analog display). Some people seem to think that those are not worth using but as far as I know, they are very accurate. The dial is a bit hard to read which may be the reason why people do not like them, though.
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1:45 One source for stripped threads is removing steel bolts from aluminium threads. If the connection is old enough, the metals have binded so strong that when you try to turn the bolt, the aluminium thread strips away from the aluminium. This results in the original thread still being around the steel bolt when you remove it. This happened for me while removing a glow plug from a TDI engine. It was fixed with a helicoil in local machining shop.
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I appreciated to have Joe there to give expert opinion. In future, I think it would be even better to show how the root should have looked in perfect weld so it would be easier for the viewers to understand what's the problem with the not-so-great welders.
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10:37 "Reliquifies gelled fuel system in minutes" sounds like a quick effect but the other side of the bottle says 15–20 minutes. Sure, extended version of the Lord of the Rings is 683 minutes so by similar logic, you can watch it in minutes. And in reality, waiting even that 15–20 minutes wouldn't probably help in -30 °F.
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Great test metholodogy! As a true geek I prefer cargo pants which have much more pockets. I hope you make similar test for cargo pants in the future. I would also recommend checking how slash resistant the pockets are. I think sharp corners of keys are slicing the pockets more often than simple puncture.
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Great test! The Knipex was winner as I expected but the Gedora brand looks surprisingly good, too.
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