Comments by "Mikko Rantalainen" (@MikkoRantalainen) on "The Genius of Induction Cooktops u0026 Why It Matters!" video.

Small correction to video: both copper and aluminium fail to work on induction stoves. You want something that reacts to magnets and the stronger a magnet sticks to your cookware, the better it will work with the induction stove. Stainless steel and cast iron are the best. I prefer stainless steel for most purposes because you can throw the cookware to dishwasher and it will take care of itself. Cast iron frying pan is still the best for cooking but real pain to keep clean if it gets dirty.
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We have an induction stove with 3.5 kW per cooking position and I'd like to have even more power.
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Not all induction stoves whine. It's called coil whine and it's caused by coils vibrating in the in magnetic field. Some manufacturers do the extra work required to stabilize the coils to avoid the audible noise. And amount of coil whine depends on your individual unit. If manufacturer doesn't consider coil whine for the QA, units from that manufacturer may or may not have audible coil whine depending on your luck.
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14:50 Induction stove doesn't actually need contact at all. You can try putting a piece of paper or even a newspaper between the stove and the cookware and it will still work. The longer distance will reduce efficiency of the system, though, similar to wireless charging in smartphones.
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@TwoBitDaVinci Hard to tell. Some people seem to not mind the coil whine. I hate it. People also have different preferences for stove interfaces. I like physical knobs as the interface but I want digitally accurate control with those knobs. Touch screens on stove are really bad in my experience because even a tiny amount of oil or water in your fingers cause the touch detection to get really flakey in practice. My biggest gripe with our current induction stove is that it has stupid delay built-in. For some reason, whenever I turn the know, the firmware waits for maybe half a second, makes "beep" sound and then adjusts the power. I know this because when you have small amoutn of water boiling, you can see when the power gets applied and when the power is cut down. The LCD display rendering the current power reacts instantly to the knobs but the power to the stove doesn't. I assume the designers of the stove thought that this was good for some purpose but for me, that's the worst part of the stove. And the biggest missing feature is temperature control instead of power control. My perfect stove would have both. For many purposes I would want temperature control combined with max power to get to the selected temperature. Kind of like high quality soldering irons work: you can increase requested temperature from e.g. 150 to 320 °C and the target temperature is achieved in seconds but it will not overshoot.
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Natural gas cooking would be hideously expensive here in Finland because we don't have already built infrastructure for it. Instead we have high quality electric grid with 3x400 V connection to most houses (3 phase, you can get the typical 240 V voltage used here between the phases). In practice, even a modern 11 kW electric stove will only need 11000 W / 3 / 400 V = 9.2 A wiring which should make it obvious why this system is superior to the US grid setup.
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