Youtube comments of Aaron Britt (@aaronbritt2025).
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I'd consider myself to be a Nissan expert, having owned an SE-V6 Hardbody since '87, been working on them since the 80's and even did a stint as a Nissan dealer tech (went to Cali and took all of the SCOPE classes) for 4 years in the 20-teens.
The only real issues the Pathfinder has with rust is rotting out the front strut towers. This only occurs in vehicles that get salt an snow packed up in there and never get washed.
The lock cylinder issue is probably the little yellow piece of plastic that connects the lock cylinder to the lock rod. They dry out and break. It's really a bad design. I keep a few of them in my tool box. I've replaced them in my 460k mile Hardbody at least 1/2 dozen times.
This engine is the MPI VG30E, which makes about 150hp. The engine in my Hardbody is the less powerful VG30i, which is TBI.
You do see sunroofs in these occasionally. They're the pop-up type. It may have been part of the "Sport" Package and on SE's.
$4k is a very good price. If it was a stick, it would have been a killer deal. The sticks tend to sell for about $1k more. Also, add about another $1-$2k for an SE trim.
SMOD refers to the coolant reservoir. When a 4.0/auto came into the dealership with either an overheating problem or shifting problem, you open the reservoir cap and look inside. If it looks like a strawberry milkshake, it gets the trans and radiator replaced. It was such an issue that Nissan extended the transmission warranty. We also would listen for any 4.0's pulling onto the service drive that sounded like they had a supercharger. This meant the tensioners were toast. That's a nice job that paid about 6 hours but only took about 2.5 for a good tech.
I had an '04 Frontier S/C crew cab with the VG33ER. It was unfortunately an auto. The only way to get a stick with the S/C engine was the 4x4 extended cab. When I bought mine in '05, the new Frontier was already starting to show up on dealer lots and as a result, I had limited choices. There wasn't a single stick shift left in the country. I had a cold air intake, Pulley Boys 15 psi pulley and a catback. It was not a very impressive engine. The supercharger was basically a giant heat generator since there was no intercooler. I wanted to work with one of the aftermarket companies to develop an air/water intercooler, but there was no interest due to the limited number of S/C's on the road and the fact that it had been discontinued.
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Dealers in Vegas are now charging $200/hr and up. That's an increase of $50 to $75/hr from 2019. I used to work at a Nissan dealer in Vegas and still know a few people there. The techs haven't received any across the board rises, only merit raises that they would have received anyways. So, where's that extra labor money going? Also dealers in Vegas charge customers MSRP + 20% for anyone walking in the door. If you press them, they'll drop the price to MSRP. There was a Nissan dealer here in Vegas that regularly put out 20% off coupons. So, they raise the price 20%, then give you a 20% coupon. Nice of them, right? Also, if you get an oil change at a dealer, the service department buys the parts from the parts department at full retail, then marks them up and sells them to you. All of the departments at a dealership act like separate, independent businesses. Also, at the dealership I was at, when I went to parts to get my parts for an oil change, they'd give me a filter and 4 quarts of non-synthetic Nissan oil. Most of the Nissans call for 5 quarts. I was told to use 4 quarts and then top off with bulk oil from the hose. The Nissan Maxima's at the time were supposed to use Ester Oil. That's the factory fill. Parts had Ester Oil, but they wouldn't give it to us, even though the RO said "Ester Oil" on it. I left the dealership after 4 years. Started my own shop.
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If you service the trans every 30k miles and use genuine Nissan NS-2 or NS-3 fluid, these transmissions seem to do just fine. However, when neglected, they hive a high failure rate. They also don't like high temps, or sure. Nissan told us here in Vegas that we, along with Phoenix had a higher than average failure rate which resulted in Nissan issuing a TSB to add an oil cooler on early CVT's. They also sent us new dipsticks with a lower fluid level. @9:00... Regarding the color... New NS-2 is green. New NS-3 is blue. @10:20... Change to fluid and the filter. The filter is a canister filter on the side of the trans, not in the pan. @16:55... Not silicone. There's a metal gasket. @20:00... That fluid does look like it was replaced recently. Also there's supposed to be a fill level tube that screws into the drain hole with a 5mm Allen. It's missing, which leads me to believe a lazy tech removed it, failed to reinstall it and just dumped 4 quarts down the fill tube. You're supposed to reinstall the fill level tube after draining, fill until some spills out, reinstall the drain plug and run the engine until the trans come up to operating temp (monitoring with the scan tool), remove the drain plug and let the excess run out until it slows to a drip. Reinstall the plug with a new washer and you're done. @23:28... The reason why the writer added "loud noise" and P0776 to the RO is because there's a TSB to remove the pan and valve body and inspect the CVT belt. If it looks worn, replace the trans. If it's not worn, replace the valve body. All dealerships have both honest and shady writers/techs. I was honest, which is why I ended up quitting after 4 years and opened my own place. Seems to be a typical pattern for honest techs. @27:50... Yeah, they did a pad slap. I NEVER did pad slaps at the dealership. It's so easy to turn the rotors, I don't get not doing it. @34:50...Check when the code were cleared. Bet it's been a lot longer than 2 weeks ago. That code was never there. Like I said, the writer and tech invented that code because of the TSB.
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Cordless tools are cool, but a cordless 3" cutoff tool doesn't make sense to me. The large head of the tool makes it so you throw away blades with 2" left. The air tool's smaller head lets you use more of the blade. @11:45, Ah, yes... The legendary "flag nut", aka, "finger mangler". @14:50... Of course the bolt's too long. These cheap aftermarket parts makers don't actually test fit their products on the vehicle, because they do zero R&D. They let the high priced makers do the R&D and then they purchase a high priced part and send it off to some low cost manufacturer to reproduce. The low cost manufacturer doesn't understand that the bolt length of the high priced part is important and they substitute whatever they have laying around. Long story short, your customer got what they paid for. "Pypes" is a cheap brand. Should've bought a Borla. It fits correctly. You're worried about scratching it, but it's pre-dented from the factory. Again, cheap parts. This whole video is just stressing me out. I couldn't deal with watching you fight this crap. God, I hate cheap parts.
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@10:30... Pull those little covers off to paint. It'll look better. I never really understood spending money on a pedal monster. It costs almost as much as a tuner, that not only changes throttle mapping, but also changes fueling and timing. Sure, it allows changing on the fly, but why do you need to do that? Once you fix the tuning so that the throttle is mapped 1:1 (most factory tunes are lazy, meaning they open the throttle less than what you ask for), if you want more throttle, you just give it more throttle. BTW, I like Banks products. Had his intake, exhaust and tuner on my 4.0L Wrangler. @36:32... "Fries are done"! @39:15... Yes, there's a long 6mm x 1.0 Phillips head machine screw that goes through that hole and engages the threads. Don't you have a "bolt bin"? Every shop has a bolt bin with random bolts.
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We purchased a '16 Mazda Miata bio car from Copart. The owner bought the car, put 13,000 miles on it, then decided to end it all. He put a 20ga. loaded with birdshot in his mouth and pulled the trigger... With the top up. We had a biohazard company clean the car, but either cleaning wasn't enough, or the company we hired sucked. I used to be an EMT, so I know what decomp smells like. We ended up buying a wrecked '16 Miata and swapped the ENTIRE interior. I also scrubbed and sanitized the bare metal while the interior was out. We also swapped the top (lots of tiny holes). Ended up selling the car for a small profit, but a lot less than we planned on. We thought we'd be able to clean the car, didn't really budget for swapping the entire interior. Yes, we did disclose the history to the buyer. In fact, the history was one of the reasons he wanted it... I know, morbid and a bit creepy, but whatever.
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You should get a rolling tool cart for the tools you use most often. It will free up space and de-clutter your tool box while allowing you to bring your most used tools with you when you move from bay to bay. I've got a big Matco 6S box with a hutch, top box and side locker. It stays in one spot and holds specialty tools, brand specific tools, electrical tools, Keurig, laptop, time clock, random junk and spare parts I use for testing. It's where I do paperwork, make coffee, timestamp work orders, and hide from my service writer. My cart contains my daily use tools that I roll that around to wherever I'm working. BTW, I call my linear impact drivers, thumb finders.
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Spent 23 years mostly loading trucks. The loader here is a Cat 980, I was in a Cat 988. This truck I can load. The shorter trucks, I have to get the bucket diagonal to get it in the bed. Loader operators need to be fast because we usually have a line of trucks waiting. Drivers get paid by the ton or by the load, so they want to get in and out as fast as possible. Gotta be fast, but also smooth. If you spill the truck driver's coffee loading the truck too hard, they get real bitchy on the CB. Even though that's a new truck, after getting loaded or dumping, the driver always gets out of the cab to make sure the gate is locked, the tarp is closed and there's not stray rocks on the lip of the gate. Any one of those 3 things are good for a big fat ticket if they're not right. BTW, Andre, loader operators appreciate it if you back all the way up against the pile. Less clean up for us.
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@4:40... You're in a unique position, with a YT channel, to have access to a larger pool of talent, maybe even some from other states, willing to relocate. I'd love to work with you. I've got over $100k in tools, 30 years on the job. Unfortunately, I'm currently disabled, waiting for a kidney transplant. It's how I have time to watch all your vids. @5:57... In Las Vegas, we usually get all traffic from one side goes, then their green arrow goes off. Straight traffic from the other side starts, then all traffic from the first side stops and the green arrow for the other side comes on. We also get a yellow flashing arrow for "left turn yield on green". @13:00... The internet is full of people who feel offended for other people who aren't offended. @20:10... OSHA rules actually say that unprotected loading dock is supposed to have a chain across it. @24:30... "Cheap is expensive". Don't apologize for telling the truth. I get trying to not burn bridges, but some bridges aren't worth saving. The only bad thing about that BG trans machine is that it pretty much only works on vehicles that use Dex/Merc. You'd need a second machine if you want to also do CVT's. Also, so manufacturers specifically state in the warranty guide that using a flush machine voids the trans warranty.
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I only drink one cup a day, so I use only single cup coffee makers. I'm not a fan of the waste generated by a Keurig and I'm a bit of a coffee snob. For this reason, I have a Jura. Yes, it was expensive, but with Starbucks charging over $3 for a basic cup of coffee, it paid for itself in less than a year since I used to get Starbucks daily (260 week days times $3 a day is $780) . My home brewed coffee is cheaper and much better tasting. I know it's a big ask, but it would be cool to see you test some high end coffee makers and compare their ease of use, cost per cup if amortized over one year, and taste of the coffee. I know taste would be subjective and not objective, but it would still be nice to have it included. Of these, I'd get the Bunn for two reasons... Time to brew and it's assembled in the USA.
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