Comments by "Marvin De Bot" (@marvindebot3264) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. Important hint: When doing a fluid change on a high mileage transmission ALWAYS save the old fluid until you have driven the vehicle a bit. What can happen is you can have severe band wear and all your friction material can be in suspension in the fluid instead of on the bands where it belongs. If the transmission slips after the change go back to the old fluid and just it until it dies.
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  2. For a workshop the Daytona is the pick but if you do mobile service the Arcan is the obvious choice.
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  3.  @ProjectFarm  I'm in Australia, I'll happily act as an agent and purchase and ship for you if you want to do this.
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  4. Yeah, I wouldn't count on the Snap_On being made in the USA, only some of their handtools are. I suspect the jack is made in the same plant as the Daytona.
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  5.  @marksmithson1414  No he doesn't, Bunker only print for people who use their distribution service.
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  6. I have the same with my Aussie-made Sidchrome sets. Unfortunately, they are now made overseas and not as good.
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  7. Your dad is a wise man who values the life of his kids.
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  8. I am shocked at how well that chainsaw worked. For someone who needs to tackle a large branch in the garden a couple of times a year it's perfect. Oh, and I can't wait to see my favourite product tester driving up Tripple Sevens in a rock crawler!
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  9. Yes, this. Make the title reflect the contents again, please.
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  10.  @jacksmith2315  3.2 thousand people disagree with you.
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  11.  @williamdiaz8100  The owners of Slick won't let him.
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  12. Thankfully we don't have them here in Australia as I agree. The only one I use in a No Spill on the small can I use for the lawnmower.
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  13. Your repair is as good as I could do with those tools and I've been doing paint and basic bodywork at home for 40 years. The only thing I'd do is use an epoxy sealer on the inside of the patch for better rust resistance, weldthru primer isn't a great rust stopper. Additionally, it's best not to use cardboard to mix filler on, it can soak up the hardener before its fully mixed, cardboard has a real appetite for the stuff. Use a piece of steel, I have a piece of 2.5mm screwed to a piece of 12mm ply with a thumb hole in one corner. Scrape most of the filler off before it hardens and remove the residual with a wire brush wheel on a grinder. Hint: old credit/debit cards make great filler applicators. Nice video, hopefully, it will encourage people to try some DYI. If it all turns out to be too much you can always call a mobile mechanic to finish for you. PS: It's a power steering box mate, not a pump.
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  14. That doesn't help if the friction material is in suspension in the fluid and not on the bands where it belongs.  @kovalenkoihor4325 
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  15. yes and it works. I've seen transmissions with almost zero material on the bands that still drove fine because it was all in suspension.  @gregorymalchuk272 
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  16. This, 100% this.
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  17. All of these are cheap, bottom-end cams, if you drive a lot and feel you NEED a dashcam you need to be looking at spending three times what the most expensive one in this test cost. While looking at cheap cams is worthwhile, these are not examples of mid to upper end cams.
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  18. Firstly, the K in Knipex is silent, it is pronounced "nipex". The average grip strength of a male human is 72 pounds, not 100. Tho your test is reasonably averaged across brands the pressure is higher than average and thus the results may differ compared to a more reasonable figure as different jaws may provide better grip at a lower force. Your socket extension test is completely unscientific as you are using several brands of extension which would almost undoubtedly be different grades of steel with different surface finishes (a DLC coated extension will have a far lower coefficient of friction than a simple black steel one for example and varying grades of steel will also yield different coefficients). Come on man, that one should be obvious. The bolt you used for the LOLA brand in the impact test appeared to have a lot of corrosion on it (I could see rust flaking off and a lot was left on the tool itself) This would have severely reduced their grip potential, Admittedly they were never going to win anything anyway but a level playing field is important. Further, when talking about how the test rig is set up you talk about placing the clamps "at 2 inches" and point at the u bolts securing the pliers to the test rig. Those are not what is applying the force (that handle is in contact with the base of the rig for its entire length, all they are doing is holding it in place) it's the clamps holding the top handle down that regulate the force applied to the jaws as the force is applied by the top handle and thus the lower jaw. It is that clamp set that needs to be at a common distance from the pivot point of the tool for uniformity of testing procedure.
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  19.  @mikekirk5811  Wavian are expensive for a reason, they are one of the few that meet NATO standards.
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  20.  @patrickr2686  IIRC they print the limited run ones but the rest or done out of house.
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  21. Here's a test I'd love to see but may not be possible as it involves finding some long out-of-production product. I'd love to see a similar test to this performed with vintage (pre sellout) Slick 50 (the stuff you had to warm and shake to distribute the obvious PTFE), the new slick 50 and plain engine oil. This would obviously involve an appeal to viewers and hope someone has some of the old product on a shelf somewhere. I've looked, I don't. I predict that the old formulation (which was billed as one in 100,000-mile treatment) will far outperform the new one to a degree that would shock those who have never used it. I can personally attest to the fact we ran a race motor on a class 1 buggy dry for 150 miles at race speeds with no damage. The Aussie distributors ran a vehicle from Sydney to Melbourne with no oil. I very much doubt that the new one will do anything close to that.
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  22.  @FJB2020  You mean the Chinese junk that came out on top or close to on top?
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  23. HRF's quality has increased a lot of late, their latest winches are incredible value for money for example.
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  24. Stick to what yuo do well mate. If you want to start a second channel for other stuff by all means do so.
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  25. Actually, the camlock is just as old as the screw. I have 1943 dated camlock cans.
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  26. Forget it, the best garden hose is half-inch airline. Forget all that overpriced, underperforming garden hose BS and just buy whatever length of either half inch (for 60 foot and under) or 19mm (for longer hoses) airline. Yes, it will cost you a bit more but it will last forever and be far more kink resistant.
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  27. I'm not convinced that Stihl are Paek Chainsaw any longer. Yes, they may be best out of the box but their longevity is nowhere near what it once was. I'd go Husky or Echo nowadays. Was there ever any doubt that Honda makes the best small gensets? Costly? Hell yes but the quality is superb. Drill sharpeners, just learn to sharpen a bit on a bench grinder, it's not that hard.
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  28. Mate in that last test (jaw break) longer jaws should put the wrench at a disadvantage not an advantage as more force is applied relative to the amount of force on the handle. Handle length also makes a difference, the handles would all have been shortened to the same length for comparative testing.
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  29. Come on mate, you know the difference between amps and amp-hours :)
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  30. Mate, you are cutting a considerable income stream by not having sponsors and I know why, your ethics are beyond reproach as a result. Have you ever thought of compensating for that with some merch? You have way more than enough viewers for someone like Bunker Branding to do it all for you, design, print, stock, take orders and distribute, all you do is get a monthly payment. I'd wear a Project Farm cap, I'd use a Project Farm can cooler/koozie as well. I'd also have a Project Farm sticker on my tractor. Why not drop them an email and give it a go, it's "no cost and no effort to you" income. after all.
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  31. Can you do the bench-mounted sharpeners next?
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  32. The best centre punch in the world is mine. Mine was made by my dad when he was a tiny little electrical engineering apprentice some 70 years ago out of a #1 morse taper drill bit. I still use it almost every day and tho I have ground it a couple of times over the 20 years I've had it, it will still outlive me. I also have his Morre & Wright automatic punch which would be 60 plus years old, it has never needed a regrind. I carry it in my belt kit as a firefighter for breaking car windows.
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  33. To say I'm surprised and impressed is an understatement. When are you going to do ExcelPlus (the original Slick50 Formula)?
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  34. No way would I use a full synthetic diesel oil and I'm a synthetic fanboi for gas engines. Diesels need zinc (even low SAPS compatible engines needs some zinc) and other additives you just won't find in a full synth. Semi synth are fine but apart from use in the very latest of diesel engines, I'd be very wary of full synthetic diesel oils, especially in heavy-duty applications.
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  35. You get what you pay for, need a genny a few times a week? Buy a Honda, need one a handful of times a year? Buy a cheaper one.
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  36. DO NOT get a camera with a built-in read cam, you do not want to give your insurance ammo by showing them what you may or may not be doing. If you want a rear cam, you want one that mounts either in the rear window or has a wireless cam that mounts in the bumper.
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  37. For a homeowner or a truck saw these are perfect but there is a long way to go before they will be suited to serious users. I'd buy one to go in the truck for emergencies as 5 minutes of run time is more than enough to clear a log off the road but if I want to cut down a tree I'm still reaching for a gas saw.
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  38. I spent several years working in the history and technology workshop of a state meusuem restoring artifacts from steam engines to firearms and molasses was our rust disolver of choice. Its slow but does zero damage to the good metal. Yes evaporust works but when you have a several hundred gallon rust removqal bath it's just not viable due to cost. BTW, molasses will be lots cheaper in bulk, farm supply places will fill your own container for around 2 to 3 bucks a gallon. What PF paid is crazy expensive and probably food grade suitable for for human consumption or some crazy price for sucker hobby farmers.
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  39. Looks like I'm buying Oregon next time I need bar oil, no Harvest King in Australia, worse luck.
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  40. The same guy who worked out how to add lead to petrol/gas to lube the valves is the guy who developed freon refrigerants. A great engineer and chemist but dang, his two biggest developments did a hell of a lot of damage environmentally.
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  41. That POR15 doesn't look right, it looks like it wasn't fully stirred and there was a lack of solids in suspension. Applied correctly there should be zero rust showing on the POR panels. I've used it to coat tractors that get used to beach launch fishing boats and had zero corrosion after years of exposure to salt water daily. Also, the silver is not the best, the black has a lot better resistance.
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  42. Yes please, there are some very affordable units out there now. Mine was under $100
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  43. yes the Arcan and the Daytona are the clear choices here.
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  44.  @dethmaul  The top of the can is above the filler, yu can't over fill one. The space is actually for expansion in heat however, a can of fuel won't sink as petrol is lighter than water.
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  45. The Hybrid Solutions one is AU$50 here Down Under but I'm going to give it a go.
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  46. I wish Costco would stock it here in Australia.
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  47. Sigh . . . Warn, Warn, Warn . . . sigh . . . yet another once-great American company that appears to be trading on the strength of a reputation earned in the past that is no longer valid. Their recent attitude to warranty claims is something that prospective purchasers need to look at before buying apart from the fact the price is, well, high for what you get. The tow industry and the military know best, if you want a truly reliable winch you buy either a hydraulic or PTO winch as neither of those will let you down because they are built to commercial standards not a retail product for weekend warriors. If I were to buy an electric winch these days I'd buy a Badlands not because they're the best (tho they are damned close) but because even if it does bugger up you will;l get a new one 100% of the time with no questions asked and it will outperform the twice the price WARN anyway. On the vehicle where I use the winch a lot I have a hydraulic winch, on my car trailer I have a $100 5000lb eBay special which is now 4 years old and still going strong. Sadly, American companies we could once trust to bring us the best quality gear can no longer be trusted to provide much more than overpriced made-in-China crap. If you can buy American-made, do so but don't forget in this day and age American-owned no longer means American-made. Support with all your heart companies such as Yankum Ropes that make product here but don't blindly buy, check where they make their stuff before buying. If it's made in China, the chances are that equal or better is available for half the price or less. It is not worth your hard-earned to support an American company that is making products in China and charging you double for the privilege. Companies need to learn that to be worth your support it has to be made here to help American families by supporting American jobs making quality products not just lining the pockets of the company owners. /rant
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  48. The vast majority of Australian mechanical workshops use Tridon clams and have done for as long as I can remember, the are synonymous with quality here. For cooling systems (where you don't need 100s of PSI) I still prefer the good old constant pressure clamps myself.
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  49.  @77Infidel  You should see the cost here (Australia) a single Bunker shirt is over US$50. It's just too much and way more than the actual postage costs.
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  50. The modern Slick 50 is NOT the same as the old one. The formulation was changed when the private company sold out to a big corporation. If you remember the old Slick you had to warm the oil and mix the visible PTFE in, I'm not even sure the new one has any PTFE in it. Old Slick was a once in a 100,000 miles treatment, the new one is supposed to be used every oil change tho I have no idea why anyone would bother. The old one worked, I've had a race motor blow an old line and run at race RPM for an hour with no damage other a couple of scored big end bearings, the new crap is, well, crap.
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