Comments by "afcgeo" (@afcgeo882) on "The Car Care Nut" channel.

  1. Yeah, well... Scotty sells oil changes.
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  2.  @strangerland9791  God you’re all ignorant. The electric wrenches they use are all pre-torqued to the specific station/part. They literally stop turning once they reach their specified torque load. This has been done everywhere, for decades. It ensures a quality standard and speeds up the process. Humans aren’t actually used all that much in vehicle assembly anymore. It’s mostly robotics. Also, no one’s wearing diapers on the assembly line. That’s a famous union story that’s been going around for decades. The conditions in assembly factories are actually remarkably good compared to almost any other manufacturing jobs. OSHA is constantly checking and non-union locations are treating their employees well so they can stay non-union.
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  3.  @gordondonahue4810  100% and it’s reflected in Toyota (a non-union manufacturer) products. The employees that are there are treated extremely well and are happy working there (voting against unionization all the time). The quality standards are easier to achieve that way and employee burn-out rates are lower.
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  4. One is literally my wife’s exact car (the Rav), color, trim, and all, and the other is the car I’m considering getting for myself. The Rav4 is from Canada (my wife’s is from the US) and the Corolla Hatch is from Japan, as they all are.
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  5. Toyota originally only used NiMH batteries in their current Rav4 generation, but switched to Li-Ion in the US in 2020. My 2021 XLE is on Li-Ion. They kept the Canadian versions on NiMH because of the more extreme cols conditions, where NiMH batteries fare better. My fuel consumption is very close to yours… about 39.6 mpg most of the time, but drops to 33 mpg in the winter, as the heater is coolant-based, which then makes the engine turn on to keep its running temps up. The air conditioning is more efficient as it’s fully electric. I live in NYC, so in a temperate zone.
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  6. If there’s one thing we all should have learned from that gasoline pipeline shutdown is that quite clearly, most brands sell the same exact gasoline that comes from the same refineries via the same pipelines. Just get your gas from a Top Tier brand (most are) and get your recommended octane rating. That’s all.
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  7.  @alphaxfang  Some can change oil by themselves and some cannot. Not everyone has access to lifts, garages or even safe driveways to do it. Also, oil changes are the time to rotate tires, inspect brakes, suspension and steering components. Also, I don’t have the time. I get paid FAR more an hour than an oil change.
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  8. I have a 2021 XLE Hybrid with 8100 miles. So far, ZERO issues. Will update. Can confirm that direct injection engines are far louder than older port injection units. They’re also much more thermally efficient, so more powerful and better on fuel.
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  9.  @alphaxfang  That’s what I do... except on a car under a warranty. In that situation, I have it serviced at a dealership. Why? Manufacturers happily use the lack of documented oil changes or “they don’t know what they’re doing” as reasons to reject a warranty claim.
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  10.  @TuoiTreVaooi  Yes. Costco was always Top Tier. They don’t make their own gas you know. It’s the same stuff you get anywhere else.
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  11.  @michaelbuerhaus8409  Toyota hasn’t stood behind anything, EVER. It’s all just marketing. I have a GIANT laundry list of issues with Toyotas over the years that they’ve always chosen to just ignore.
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  12. My 16 year old Camry has never lost an ounce of oil. It lost coolant a lot (2AZFE problems) , but never oil. Mobil 1 oil and filter every 6,000 miles in heavily urban driving.
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  13. That WAS the case, 10-20 years ago, but things change. They’re not as reliable and manufacturing/engineering technologies have evened the playing field. I would say some models are rocks and some are absolute garbage, just like with other manufacturers. A brand name is no longer something to blindly trust in.
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  14.  @Maxfli82  Scotty ripped it off another Youtuber. You think Scotty knows ANYTHING about chemistry or engineering? 😂 😂 Either way, they don’t make 0W-16 oil, which is what most new Toyotas use, and which is what this video’s about.
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  15.  @Anomize23  I’ve been to a Ford plant. Have you? About 90% of cars on the lot are Ford/Lincoln.
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  16.  @JohnS-il1dr  False and misinformed. ALL companies “encourage” employees to buy buy their own and there’s a lot if peer pressure involved too, but there’s also basic pride in your work. The Ford plant you’re referring to has a parking lot for domestic cars and one for foreign cars. It does not have a separate lot for Fords only. This was actually created by the UAW as only GM, Chrysler and Ford use UAW labor. The company never wanted to bother with that stuff. They honestly don’t care and don’t want the issues that come with it, but the union demanded it when Toyota dropped the UAW in 2010.
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  17. Variable compression engines. Honda has them too. They sense which octane fuel you have and adjust the oxygen mix and cylinder compression to match. Your best power will be with high octane fuel, but you can use 87 just fine. You might just get ~10% less horsepower.
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  18.  @jimpie231  They’re usually sold as marine use gasoline at stations, but it’s rare. In FL, most stations have it, but it’s about 30% more than 87 OCT E10, so it’s not worth it.
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  19. Costco uses Top Tier gas.
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  20.  @kingofuseddurablecars.ls6040  Yes, the largest share is the controlling share. The next largest share is just over 7%, still owned by a Toyota Group company. In fact, the 5 largest owners are a part of the Toyota Group. This info is all available online. The vast majority (over 90% of the board) are Toyota executives.
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  21.  @connor3288  They had one problematic DI engine family, for sure, but most of their engines are rock solid. It was also poor engineering, not manufacturing issues.
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  22.  @nofyfb123  You want the whole list? Okay… I’ll start with issues that have affected my last two Toyotas. 1. Rav4 hybrid 12v battery drain 2. Rav4 hybrid fuel tank/sender 3. Rav4 8-speed transmission performance at low gearing. That issue affects the Camry as well. 4. The Corolla CVT issues in its first 2 years. 5. 2AZFE engine’s head bolts unthreading. 6. Weak lower control arms and struts on the 2002-2007 Camry. 6. Oil consumption on the 2007-2012 Camry 7. Engine sludge issues on Camry prior to 2002. 8. Extremely thin paint on most models in the 2000-2015 years. 9. Then there’s this list: https://www.hotcars.com/problems-with-toyota-cars-everyone-ignores/amp/ 10. This: https://www.hotcars.com/problems-with-toyota-cars-everyone-ignores/amp/ 11. The Tacoma engine and transmission issues. 12. 4th Gen Rav4’s battery fires 13. Melting dashboards on various Toyota and Lexus models 14. Tacoma water leaks 15. Tacoma and Tundra frames 16. Bluetooth echoes on 2016- models 17. Electric window switches This is just a partial list of things wrong with Toyotas in the last 2 decades. The full list is far more exhaustive. The worst part of all this is that Toyota intentionally denies all issues until they are facing class-action law suits. So all those campaigns and recalls Toyota cultists mention aren’t a sign of Toyota’s self-awareness, but are rather a part of government-mandated safety recalls or a part of court room settlements. Toyota doesn’t even issue TSBs voluntarily.
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  23. @Nobody else but me Except the extra original cost on my hybrid was $600 and when it comes to maintenance... it costs LESS than the same non-hybrid. It doesn’t have a transmission, starter or alternator and the engine runs just half the time. Electric motors are incredibly simple and have just about no parts that create friction. It’s all generated by magnets and rotation. Your personal experience is absolutely irrelevant. It’s called “anecdotal evidence.” Look it up! Also, once you get a hybrid and see how much maintenance costs, how is that proof? You’re just plain stupid! That’s okay though. The world needs stupid people to showcase those who aren’t, so... Thank you, sir!
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  24. @Nobody else but me It’s not the power plant that has breakdowns. In fact, Teslas don’t break. The issue with Teslas is the lack of spare parts, especially body work parts for people who’ve gotten into accidents. Everything else is software. Seriously... I know dumb people live to try to sound smart, but you’re ridiculous. You don’t even comprehend the difference between electronics and electric motors. 😂 😂 😂
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  25. How often should I clean this filter? 2021 Rav4 Hybrid.
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  26.  @AnonYmous-zt6kr  Ha! Scotty tells what he thinks is the truth. I’m not saying he’s purposefully lying. No. He’s just completely ignorant is all. What he actually covers and how he covers it are a result of years’ long experience in what Youtubers want to actually hear and what they want to hear is not science or fact. They want to hear that all these years they were right all along. Ignorance is bliss. Scotty makes 50x more money on Youtube than with his shop. That’s his actual job. Most of what he says is pure bullshit. Most of it is rooted in mechanics of the 1980s, Much of it is pure speculation and exaggeration. It’s what sells.
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  27.  @zygi22  Except that’s factually a fallacy. Car engines have NEVER been as reliable as they are today. Yes, they need to be properly maintained, but they require LESS regular maintenance, not more. 25 years ago, a car that ran 200,000 miles on the original engine was extremely rare. Today, a Toyota doing that is very common, with little more than oil and coolant changes at prescribed intervals (of which there are fewer). My last Camry was 15 years old and I’ve never had any issues with that engine. Literally only changed the oil every 6k miles and coolant at 100k. That’s it. Forget my personal experience though... read some statistics on the topic. Cars are far more reliable than they ever were. The worst cars have a failure of about 8% for the first 3 years. That’s the lowest in history of automobiles.
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  28. This is why power management software in cars is crucial. A hybrid car should never let you reach an empty battery. It’s also why you should be VERY careful of running out of fuel in a hybrid (and why Toyota created a huge fuel reserve in their tanks.)
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  29. Except their drivetrains, for the most part, are average.
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  30. Luxury brand engines often make more power by adjusting the compression up, which then requires higher octane.
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  31. Well… you didn’t account for anything else that’s likely to break on a high mileage car, including engine, cooling, exhaust, suspension, steering and HVAC components. A new car would have none of those costs. A head gasket repair alone will set you back another $2k easily. 130k miles doesn’t sound like much to most Toyota owners, but this is a big city car. It’s a Chicago car. That means many times more wear and tear, per mile, than the average. This car is over 15 years old, so major corrosion issues. Things like engine mounts, steering rack, door mounts, seat mounts, interior panels, gear shifter, switches, etc will all have much more wear because this car makes a lot more trips to get to its 130k mileage. An average trip for this car is likely around 10 miles. So those components see a lot more use. An average big city car starts seeing lots of problems around 100-125k miles, even a Toyota. That means the ACTUAL cost per mile on that Camry is likely to be 4-5 times higher than 5.8 cents/mile.
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  32.  @bikedawg  That’s false. All Top Tier brands (which is most brands) have a set list of additives they are required to have. Only a couple of brands add something unique to the formula. Off the top of my head, I know Shell and Chevron do. Almost all other brands just use a standard “top tier” mix offered by the supplying refinery. Also, there is ZERO evidence that a cheaper Top Tier brand is worse than the most expensive one.
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  33.  @cylonred8902  I don’t know about Kroger’s, but both Marathon and Speedway are top tier gasoline brands.
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  34. 10k miles on a quality synthetic oil and filter is nothing.
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  35. My dad has an 09 Prius in St Petersburg, Russia and says it’s the best snow car he’s ever had, and he’s had an Explorer, an Escape and even a Niva before.
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  36.  @stevegruber4724  With EVs you also get rid of the transmission.
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  37.  @Lysasome  Go by the door jam numbers, never fo by the number on the tyre.
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  38.  @empackmanmueller1725  Amsoil is a perfectly good oil brand. Most brands protect the engine very well. The task is to do the changes properly and on time, and to change the filter properly too.
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  39.  @TheCarCareNut  The worst part is that the dealership sells the entire wiper assembly, but… that’s an aftermarket part, not an OEM DENSO part, and it’s much worse. I live in NYC area and have already called 5 dealerships around me.The DENSO wipers are fantastic, but you can’t find them anywhere.
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  40.  @TheCarCareNut  Thanks for the tip. I found that the two closest dealers with them in stock are over 100 miles away. They charge $40 for shipping, so no advantage to buying the refills at $10 each. I’ll be getting Bosch ICONs instead.
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  41. Australia is a bit hotter and more sandy than most of the United States. Urban, mountainous and desert driving require more frequent oil changes. Older cars with organic oil said 3,000 miles. Now with lighter weight and synthetic oils you can do 5,000. However, in “clean” and light duty conditions, it used to recommend 6,000 miles, now going up to 10,000.
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  42. One time won’t kill it. Just don’t make a habit of it.
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  43. Most Toyota cars are now packaged with those from the distributor. At least in the northern regions. Mine was. Also already came with mud guards. Those accessories are literally on the allocation sheet.
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  44.  @TheCarCareNut  Oh I have NO doubt the fluid needs changing. I’m just bringing attention to that wonderful Toyota care.
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  45.  @michaelbuerhaus8409  They DID go to court and no, they don’t fix things. You want all the links to their lost lawsuits? It’s extensive. They’re just as bad as anyone else.
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  46.  @asiangrl88  Oil types? Basic types are organic, semi-synthetic and synthetic. Organic is the original type made out of organic (petroleum) compounds. Synthetic is made of inorganic, synthetic compounds and semi is a blend of the two. Motor oil’s job is: to lubricate moving metal parts of the engine and absorb the heat that they create. Motor oil breaks down from extreme heat. The more resistant it is to that breakdown, the longer it protects the engine. Synthetic oil is more durable than organic or blended. Oil filters filter out any metal/carbon particles that get into the oil from the grinding of engine parts and the combustion cycle. As with any car, the manufacturer will specify the base oil required, especially its weight (XW-XX).
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  47. It’s literally all in your mind.
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  48. Except the systems are identical at Toyota, whether it be in Japan, Indonesia, Canada, US, Russia, Thailand or anywhere else. Almost everything is automated.
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  49. Sorry, but he often is. Not on purpose. He just bought into the cult. He needs to work for a competitor and see it’s not any different.
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  50.  @talisikid1618  And you have some evidence for this? Wipe that Kool Aid off your chin, buddy.
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  51.  @nofyfb123  Easily, the plethora of issues with the Rav4s and Camrys over the last 20 years easily qualifies as anything GM, Ford or FCA have ever done. The general public is just brainwashed into believing otherwise. The facts are available, however, and they speak loudly.
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  52.  @nofyfb123  Why do we (or should we) care about your individual, personal experiences with this topic from 20-40 years ago? It has NO relevance on the the current discussion whatsoever. You’ve asked for a list. I’ve provided one. Are you denying the legitimacy of it? If you want to research into it deeper, you’re more than welcomed to. Be my guest, educate yourself. Otherwise, troll elsewhere.
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  53. Toyota gives free maintenance for two years.
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  54.  @mana9013  That’s his choice, but if anything goes wrong, Toyota will deny the warranty claim and blame it on “improper maintenance”.
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  55. I think this was a very prevalent thing when Toyota was designing in California for the few America-only models and in Japan for the worldwide platforms. This was very common in the 80’s and 90’s. Since then it seems that the difference has all, but disappeared, along with many more models being identical or almost identical everywhere. The Rav4 made in Japan, Canada or the US seem to be exactly the same in terms of production quality and parts quality.
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  56.  @JW-ji8xr  Just FYI: all yellow cab Camrys in NYC are hybrids and most T&LC Camrys are hybrids too. Some T&LC owners don’t want to pay extra for the hybrid system.
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  57. @Nobody else but me 1 million kilometers is 621k miles and while most cars will never see that much, many have. The other poster is right. You’re demonstrating your very small IQ by making statements you can’t back up and calling out others on facts you yourself know are correct. Stop trolling.
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  58. 😂 100% a lie.
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  59.  @TheCarCareNut  Hi! Thanks for the quick reply!
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  60.  @ceuser3555  Depends on the engine. There are YT videos on it. My old 2005 Camry 2.4 was an easy job. Other engines may not be so easy.
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  61.  @alphaxfang  Scotty changes oil for a living. He makes money on every change. Him suggesting you do oil changes at 3k-5k miles on modern cars comes from him being an old mechanic and an old man, too set in his ways and too uninformed in technology to change. His experience is from the 1980s and 1990s when indeed, oil changes did need to be done that often. That was 30-40 years ago, bud! No, today’s oils, filters and engines don’t require frequent changes. Scotty just wants to make money off you, that’s all. Just like Trump makes money off his old, white men who want the 1960’s back, so does Scotty and his fans. Sorry man... time and technological advances wait for no one.
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  62.  @alphaxfang  WTF are you on about? Do you speak English? I don’t think you understand anything I have said or what the video says, AT ALL.
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  63.  @gen2-x364  And technology never changes, you still use a rotary phone and a paper map. Yeah, we get it.
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  64.  @AnonYmous-zt6kr  What, Amazon’s oil? It’s not made by Amazon. It’s actually a very good oil, but they don’t make 0W-16.
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  65.  @gtzgreatride  The oil’s been out in the US for 4 years and in Japan even longer, but cars that use it haven’t been very common until recently and the oil is still not on shelves of most auto parts stores, so when you do find it, it’s expensive.
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  66.  @gtzgreatride  Amsoil’s $7.75 plus shipping, which is quite a bit.
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  67.  @zygi22  I’m not either. Cars are more reliable now than 10 years ago too. It’s a constant improvement. It’s just easier to see the gradual difference over long periods of time. People said shit like this about EFI, turbo, high compression engines, even air bags and ABS brakes. It’s all fear of technology rooted in ignorance.
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  68.  @Theaverageazn247  I’ve tried. You can’t get 0W16 oil at Costco and it’s not cheap anywhere else either. Regardless, you should’t do DIY oil changes under warranty and not everyone is able to do them at home.
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  69. Octane measurement in Europe uses the RON scale, while in America it uses the PON scale. 95 octane in Europe is called 87 octane in North America, but it’s the sake fuel. It’s like using inches versus centimeters.
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  70. I just got a 21 Rav4 Hybrid. Can’t control the RPMs usually, aside from high speeds on the highways. What are hybrid-specific break-in practices? Also, Toyota Care pays for 2 years of free oil changes. I live in NYC. Should I insist on full synthetic changes every 5,000 miles? The engine works less time in a hybrid. Is that a consideration or no?
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  71. Worse… all the premature cylinder detonation slowly destroys the cylinder components and timing components too. Sadly, all rental car companies have only 87 octane pumps at their locations, so even cars requiring 91+ get 87. It’s another reason to never buy a used car from rental companies.
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  72. Those scratches are from the car wash. Dealerships don’t wax cars. Waxing is laborious and easy to f up. No. That’s from the car wash and it happens. That’s why you need to do those fairly rarely, and mostly for getting the underside clean and free of salt/mud.
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  73.  @user-tb7rn1il3q  What’s reckless about driving at 50mph? 😂 Get in the right lane and drive to your heart’s content. People will pass you just fine. Driving 80 is what’s factually reckless. Also, if you down shift at 50mph, you will overrev the engine quickly.
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  74.  @henryhonda8408  No, it isn’t. It has a normal and sport mode too.
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  75. Oil isn’t that cheap anymore. New, light weight formulations are pretty pricey, especially at dealerships. They are charging over $100 for annual services.
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  76.  @chrisE815  I have the 21 Rav Hybrid and considering a Prime. Why is the Prime worse?
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  77.  @chrisE815  How is there less space? The battery is under the car. How is it less MPG when you plug it in? About 3/4 of my daily driving adds up to less than 15 miles. I qualify for the $7500 federal and $2000 state tax rebate, so it actually comes out the same price, but I’m not asking about the price. I’m asking how the car is worse. So far, you haven’t said anything that’s real. Do you even own one?
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  78.  @TheCarCareNut  European FWD Rav4s have manual transmissions as standard, auto optional.
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  79.  @TheCarCareNut  Not correct. Toyota switched from NiMH to Lithium-Ion in US-made Rav4 Hybrids in 2020. All 2021 models should be Li-Ion. It’s in the manual and can be seen on the app for your vin, and the dealer can ABSOLUTELY tell.
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  80. If it’s a 2021 it’s with a Lithium-ion battery. Your manual should say it. You can also see it in the Toyota app. It is a hybrid, right?
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  81.  @cowboydomino  There is a sticker under the hood that will say what battery you have. Also, look on page 680 of the manual (Chap 9 - Vehicle Specs.) As far as I know, all US sold Rav4s got the Lithium-Ion battery from July 2020 on (build date). https://www.rav4world.com/attachments/om0r029up686-jpg.154242/
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  82. To maintain the warranty, it’s best to have Toyota do the regular interval service. They are very happy to deny claims and blame it on your mechanic.
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  83. Due to battery management software, you cannot swap them.
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  84. Hi. Toyota switched from NiMH to Li-Ion batteries in the Rav4 hybrid in 2020 (in the US). From what I can tell, the storage capacity, fuel economy and power remain unchanged, so what did change? Does the car weigh less? Does the battery take up less space under the seat? Also, what are considerations for fires with both? I believe Li-Ion batteries are very difficult to put out. I ask because my wife bought a 2021 Hybrid with the Li-Ion pack.. Thanks!
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  85. Forgetting isn’t an experience thing.
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  86. I highly recommend learning how to spell and use grammar first. Life-changing!
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  87. Variable compression engines, such as the one in your Acura are becoming more and more common. They can adjust their compression to any octane grade and have sensors to tell which you have in the fuel lines. You will get a higher performance out of higher grade octane in such an engine because it will increase compression, but any octane fuel is fine to run on.
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  88. As opposed to what, Jet A? 😂
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  89. I appreciate your opinion, but it’s absolute, mindless horse shit, sorry. Whether you want to call it in Japanese (kaizen) or English (evolution), continuous improvement isn’t a uniquely Toyota concept. In fact, ALL vehicle manufacturers, and all manufacturers in general, use it. Every engineer and developer bases designs on past lessons. Kaizen is a term for “lean manufacturing.” When someone says “I’ve been working exclusively for one employer”, please understand that that person has only one single perspective and may be exhibiting what’s known as the Stockholm Syndrome. Look, I drive a Toyota. In fact, both my new cars have been Toyotas. I believe Toyotas are a good value and fit my driving style well. That said, their FACTUAL (statistical) reliability is just above average and they have been getting worse with complexity and cost cutting over the years (as have most other manufacturers). There are things they do very well and always have (electricals, hybrid drivetrain, metallurgy). There are things they’ve really improved on in the last decade (engines, suspensions and AWD) and there are things they’ve really crapped out on lately (steering, technology, infotainment, paint and transmissions). Despite all that, having an employee tell us corporate tales of culture is honestly gross. It feels like listening to a cult member. Believe me, Toyota isn’t that special. They make good cars, overall, but they are not industry leaders in anything at all and they’re not incredibly concerned about their customers. Case in point: although I own a 2021 Rav4 Hybrid and live in NYC where I do frequent short trips (mostly) and have cold winters (relatively), and Toyota’s own recommendation to change the oil every 5,000 miles, Toyota has REFUSED to pay for it via Toyota Care. They simply said they would, if the technician would determine an oil change is needed. 😂 Which is of course impossible without a chemical test or absolute self-destruction of the engine. I had two very long conversations with supervisors on the phone and caught BOTH flat out lying and back pedaling. When I had the service manager listen on the speaker, he just shook his head and gave me a free oil change because Toyota basically said, “Yes, the contract says you’re entitled. No, we won’t pay.” That is today’s Toyota. Three people at Customer Care said this, including two supervisors.
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  90. Nope! Not a single one. There is ethanol-free gasoline sold, but it’s sold mostly as a marine gas for trailered boats. You can still use it in your car. It’s just much more expensive. Whether 87, 89, 91 or 93 octane, if one is E10, so are the rest.
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  91.  @peterscott2662  Canada is a bit different. 91 octane fuels at Esso and Shell are ethanol-free, but they are mid-tier fuels. 93 Octane fuel at Esso actually has more ethanol in it. That is not the case in the States though. Here, state laws either require E10 or they don’t, but stations don’t mix Ethanol quantity by octane. We also don’t normally have 93 Octane.
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  92.  @peterscott2662  I believe you. I had to look up how it works in Canada since I haven’t been up there in about two years, and usually don’t get gas when I am (most cities are well within range of me filling up before the border and then after.) Next time I’m up, I’ll stop to check for this. Have you seen it in QC too or just ON?
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  93.  @BikeHelmetMk2  Oddly enough, Amazon Basics oil had tested right up there too.
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  94. Toyota dealerships don’t sell Rav4 windshield wiper blade refills because Toyota refuses to ship them. When I called ToA, they flat out told me they aren’t responsible for parts, then transferred me to a dealer when I didn’t want to be, and hung up. So where should I buy them?
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  95. Old school engines and old school oils required it. The logic continues, but oil change periods are longer now.
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  96.  @jerryclleung  OEM everything is based on economics. Oil filters aren’t a customer-facing part. They don’t sell cars. Same as tires. That’s why OEM filters are the cheapest one could buy. It has nothing to do with advances in the industry. Mobil 1 filters can easily do the job for over 20k miles. You can do whatever you want, but science is science. People have had their oil tested at 20k and it was good.
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  97. That’s actually a myth that’s been debunked hundreds of times. You don’t get more mileage out of higher octane. Higher octane simply prevents knocking (premature detonation) at higher compression by having more of the stabilizing chemical in it. That allows higher compression engines to run the fuel. With lower Octane the fuel would detonate on the early end of the piston’s power stroke and screw up the timing (knocking) and damage the cylinders over time.
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  98. Do it at 10000km, with all changes every 10000km for at least 2 years/30000km. You can then move to 15000-16000 changes.
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  99. The cost is literally 30% more, 6 weeks or not.
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  100.  @mikemccauley3487  Are you mentally ill?
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  101. Simple: that was an utter lie. They drive them off the line, park them, drive them onto trucks, park them at regional centers, then truck again and dealership. That’s all the testing that happens.
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  102. To be fair, sales people aren’t trained on this. It’s better (legally) to say nothing than give the wrong advice when not trained.
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  103.  @philipwebb960  The manual says NOTHING about breaking in the car.
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  104. You can easily drive at 65mph on literally any freeway in America.
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  105. They likely come from the same auction either way.
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  106. It’s normal.
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  107.  @aluisious  That’s the myth. The reality is that very few do. Most vote against unions for a very simple reason: the company is willing to match the pay & benefits and the employees don’t need to pay dues. I’ve worked in many union, non-union and mixed environments, including as a member and as a manager. You? It’s likely you have little to no actual experience working with unions and by “union busting” you actually mean them paying well and setting up union-like environments.
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  108. What’s a USA-influenced country? 2021 Rav4 hybrid here. Says 10,000 mile interval for oil changes, unless special/heavy use.
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  109.  @WidleyWesident  Except all of those use very different recommended oil change intervals, use kilometers instead of miles and Toyota is a JAPANESE company, not an American one. Also, Australia and Pakistan has FAR more connections to the UK than the United States. Your conspiracy theories are matched only by Trump cultists.
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  110.  @TheCarCareNut  How does circulation reduce the amount of particulates, an oil’s viscosity or heat tolerance? It doesn’t. Oil sitting in a can doesn’t spoil in a year or two, especially if synthetic. Oil spoils when engine shavings contaminate it, when blow-by seeps into the crank case from the engine running and when it gets too hot often. If the engine is not running, none of it is happening. Look, I love your “old school” mechanic’s opinion approach, but facts are more important.
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  111. What a great question! Absolutely, if you aren’t abusing the car/engine, use a good oil (synthetic) and filter then yes, extend those changes (after break-in). Countless laboratory tests have shown no significant oil degradation even at 15k miles (full synth). In the end, oil cools and lubricates and if those chemical properties are still in tact, and the particulates are low (effect of a good filter), you don’t need to change it. That said, for the first 2 years/25k miles, I’d still do 5k in city or 10k hwy changes, full synthetic, because particulates shed off new engines like crazy during break-in. After that, bump them up. I’d go to 10k city/towing, 15k hwy changes.
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  112. Why? Did you not discuss this with the service manager or look at your receipt? They do what Toyota recommends.
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  113. How would you know how much gas a station sells, aside from your non-observational assumptions?
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  114.  @ruthnoya8424  It’s a legal requirement to run those reports. Water seeps into any tank. Gasoline is very good at keeping water separated and at the bottom. Tanks should be drained regularly to discharge the collected water.
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  115. Then swap it for a premium filter.
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  116. Early failure is a much bigger issue with NiMH batteries than Li-ion batteries, although NiMH does have benefits to it, like operation in more extreme temperatures and cost. With the Li-Ion batteries you’re unlikely to need replacement until you hit 200k miles.
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  117.  @kingofuseddurablecars.ls6040  You’re stupid. Just look it up! Yes, Toyota does own Aisin.
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  118.  @kingofuseddurablecars.ls6040  Actually, Toyota Motors owns 22.7% (the largest stakeholder of Aisin), which alone makes it the controlling entity, but on top of that, other Toyota subsidiaries own large chunks of the company as well. Learn how business works, dummy! LOOK IT UP!
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  119. Replace the transmission fluid? But Toyota says not to!
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  120.  @TheCarCareNut  No towing.
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  121. What?! No! That’s not a thing! No one puts any additives into oil except the oil manufacturer (that’s illegal) and “new car oil” doesn’t exist.
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  122.  @7aramkeda334  Yeah... you were LIED to. Service managers’ primary job is to sell you services. They’re not engineers or mechanics. They’re literally sales people. Car manufacturers, decades ago, used to add heavy mineralized oil to speed up the break-in process by having light corrosives in the system. They would basically file down all the imperfections on surfaces. They were supposed to be left in the system, up to 3,000 miles, which is what recommended oil change intervals used to be. During that time, specific break-in protocols had to followed. That stopped in the 80s and 90s. Today, machined parts are coated in a special lubricant upon assembly, and regular motor oil is added to the system. The machining of the parts is FAR better and the quantity and size of contaminating particulates far smaller. Manufacturers no longer ask for a break-in process because it’s no longer necessary. Just do the oil changes on time and use high quality oil and filters. Don’t skimp on them. Your first oil change at 10k miles will be perfectly good. If you want piece of mind, take an oil sample early and send it out for a test. It’s cheap and enlightening. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=wtjb5y55hxmmh3mp3qbd2z45&timeout=20&bslauth&urlbase=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F%28S%28wtjb5y55hxmmh3mp3qbd2z45%29%29%2F Then do a test at 10k miles, right before an oil change. You’ll see how it really is. Don’t trust mechanics or sales reps. Trust science!
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  123.  @7aramkeda334  What can I say? Idiots come in all positions. Find another Toyota dealer for your service.
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  124.  @7aramkeda334  You get Toyota Care at ANY Toyota dealership in the country. You can do one change in Chicago and the next in Houston. It doesn’t matter.
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  125.  @7aramkeda334  There is no service at 2,500 miles though. You’re not communicating well.
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  126.  @7aramkeda334  No, you should get them to change it at 5k, due to the story. Then at 10k as well. Go to a different dealership though. They should have changed the oil at delivery. Do you know that they didn’t? What dealership doesn’t change the oil in a situation like that?!
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  127. Why? They screwed up those frames and the courts made them replace them.
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  128. @Henry Sorensen No, they haven’t. They don’t replace absolutely anything. Their “updated” 2.4s went from being sludge factories to having head bolts come out on their own to burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles until they went to a 2.5. Number of replaced used engines: ZERO.
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  129.  @rodneybooth4069  Dana makes frames to the manufacturers’ designs, not their own. Also, if it had been, it would have been a party to the class action suit “Brian Warner et al. v. Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc”, which it wasn’t. Toyota settled it and paid for the replacements. http://www.toyotaframesettlement.com/ The worst part is that Toyota denied all claims of this frame issue for about 15 years and then fought in court for two more until settling. That’s the real Toyota way. My biggest issues aren’t design or manufacturing mistakes. Those happen to everyone. My issue is how the company deals with them. My other issue is that if you maintain your Toyota the way the company tells you to, it won’t see 100k on the odometer. My Rav4 Hybrid, according to the company, needs 10k oil changes, no transmission or differential fluid changes and its hybrid battery filter needs no checking or cleaning, though the cabin air filter certainly does. This all while the dealership techs say 5,000 oil changes, 50k diff and tranny fluid changes and constant hybrid battery filter cleaning. All are systems that are CRITICAL. That’s what Toyota is. They even gave their Tundras a sealed transmission. Tundras! They are 4x4 and tow! Did you know that Toyota cheated on EPA fuel economy tests and was caught back in the 1990’s and fined $180 million for not reporting emissions failures from 2005 to 2015? Apparently the Japanese employees knew, but ignored the issue. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/amp35226937/toyota-fine-clean-air-act-violation/ I’m not implying others haven’t. Not at all. I’m saying Toyota’s just as bad.
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  130. No, but do a regular (non-synthetic) change at 1,000 miles. It costs $30. Then switch to synthetic at 5,000.
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  131.  @asiangrl88  In its first 1000 miles, the engine grinds off all the tiny imperfections left over from the manufacturing and casting process of making the engine. Those tiny shavings end up in the oil. You want to change that oil after 1000 miles to get clean stuff in, without the contaminants. Doing organic at that point is cheaper. It’ll still be good. You could do synthetic, but then it’s just as good, but twice the price. After you get the break-in oil done, at say... 10k miles... then switch to synthetic and run longer intervals. To be fair, modern cars’ engines are machined FAR better than engines even 20 years ago. You won’t find much metal in the oil nowadays, but still... some companies are better than others.
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  132. 100k is nothing anymore.
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  133. You’re more likely to have other components fail critically before the battery ever does.
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  134.  @bogieman101  Thoughts (myths) aside, both battery types are very reliable and safe.
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  135.  @nobodyimportant7804  They ARE identical. Every Rav4, no matter where it’s made, has the same fit and finish.
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  136.  @steviesevieria1868  FACTS say you’re wrong. The way you voice yourself says you’re ignorant and naive.
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  137.  @grahamlockley4435  Every single publication on reliability studies says so. What does YT have with any if this? (Nothing!) They’re not my or your facts. They’re just FACTS: surveys if large quantities of people, quantified. https://repairpal.com/reliability https://www.jdpower.com/cars/ratings/dependability https://amp.usatoday.com/amp/6337648002 https://www3.forbes.com/business/25-vehicles-owners-hold-onto-the-longest-ifs-vue-wnb/?utm_campaign=25-Vehicles-Owners-Hold-Onto-The-Longest&utm_source=Adwords&utm_medium=ad190932m0us&lcid=ad190932m0us&gclid=CjwKCAjwos-HBhB3EiwAe4xM95Ws2G8MCDr618WE0I1Ibir3IfRjuJBWZdhg-4P0wL8S3PLx3NAUAhoCP28QAvD_BwE
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  138.  @NelsonGasparDrives  Perhaps that’s your feeling from the dealer side, but there are millions of owners who feel differently.
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  139.  @NelsonGasparDrives  Then you’re clearly not listening to others. The internet is FULL of Toyota owners being screwed by the company. I actually like Toyota dealers, in general. It’s TOA who screws people.
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  140.  @nofyfb123  Your personal opinion, based on nothing, but “feels” is honestly and truly of no concern to me. I was and am talking about facts. If you don’t want to join me in that conversation, you don’t have to. You can just keep moving along and find someplace else to troll with your 1972 experiences.
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  141.  @nofyfb123  Do you want me to tell you to F off in some other language? I thought you spoke English. Go troll elsewhere!
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  142.  @mana9013  What do transmission issues have to do with motor oil changes?
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  143.  @mana9013  So literally has nothing to do with the topic of conversation. Cool story, bruh! Thanks! CPO programs have warranties. Not every off-lease car is a CPO.
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  144.  @mana9013  <ahem> BULLSHIT! <ahem> https://www.hondacertified.com/certified-preowned-benefits https://www.toyotacertified.com/warranty?srchid=SEM_700000001564933:GOOGLE:Brand_Toyota_TCUV:58700005299314547:toyota%20certified%20warranty:p47005070122:423745408244&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAiAo5qABhBdEiwAOtGmbjdyYa5EMbbrjxtm8WddYYwSeuJcx41Qbtn32PHVLz3ZlXArEViinhoCTKIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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  145. After it clicks off, it shows you only have 1/2 fuel in the tank? Not F?
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  146.  @luckyguy600 What are you talking about? You LITERALLY admitted you have NO idea of what anything might cost, and then immediately made an assumption that it will never work. You truly are a moron.
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  147. No. No such formulation.
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  148. You don’t get more power or more MPG out of running 91+ when your car’s engine is designed for 87. It just isn’t how that works.
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  149.  @paulgantz9198  The MPG difference is about 5%, but it costs 30% more. Congrats!
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  150.  @paulgantz9198  On an old car, yes. On a modern car, no. They were designed to run on fuel with ethanol in it.
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  151. There are brand lists online.
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  152. Range is computer-based. It uses the fuel volume multiplied by your average fuel consumption. As that average is less than ideal, the range goes down. Also, you can go pretty far on 2+ gallons in this car, so saying it’s “past E” is pointless. Your numbers say you get 11 gallons in. That makes sense. 11+2.5+top off reserve=14.5 maximum.
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  153.  @MrRoyGS  Just understand that it’s designed that way for a reason on a hybrid. If you run out of gas, and run the battery to zero, you cannot just get gas and drive away. Your car won’t start. You will need to go to the dealer and get your OBD codes reset and battery charged. Your gauges only guesstimate on the range.
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  154.  @MrRoyGS  You can. In good conditions, you can. That said, why the weird goal? Tanks come in different sizes. My old Camry had an 18 gallon tank and I could get 450 out of it. The Rav4, with AWD, gets me 500 miles out of 14 gallons. Isn’t the advantage crystal clear?
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  155.  @MrRoyGS  I get it, but the fill-ups are still rare and still quick. What’s the alternative? A non-hybrid car with less range?
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  156. That’s not a thing. Just like conspiracy theories. They get regular oil just like all cars.
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  157.  @rotorblade9508  Did you figure that with the cost of typical modern Toyota 0W-16 oil? The 2005 Camry I had until a month ago cost me about $50 in Mobil 1 oil every 6k-7k miles. That’s with labor. My new Rav4 is going to cost me about $140. That’s a big difference.
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  158.  @zygi22  Except there is no design defect here. There is a design concession: A tradeoff of increased oil consumption in return for higher fuel economy, higher performance and lower emissions.
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  159.  @ahmadmohd1504  😂 You can change every 200 miles too.
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  160.  @ahmadmohd1504  😂 😂 😂
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  161.  @romonshakra9381  So you live your life like an Al Qaeda extremist? You can either change your oil every 20 miles or never? You must think your single digit IQ is amusing.
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  162.  @sezaboy2940  Toyotas aren’t burning oil.
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  163.  @metrork1  You’ve convinced us all that you’re a total moron. Congratulations!
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  164.  @jacobneal5388  Oil changes USED to be simple DIY, but it’s not so simple anymore. Plus oil changes are only a small part of the interval maintenance that needs to be done with modern vehicles, which are again, much more complex than they used to be. However, my comment’s point was that you shouldn’t do your own oil changes while you’re under warranty because the manufacturers will not honor your warranty claim if you cannot prove that the required maintenance was done, and done by a certified mechanic.
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  165.  @gothicpagan.666  Scotty is 150% a fool. You’re just 300% a fool to watch him.
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  166.  @neolerades2987  That’s your opinion, but my mechanic does it in 20 minutes and for $30. Not only does it take longer for me to do it, but it’s more dangerous and to be honest, takes much longer as I don’t have a lift. I also get my tires rotated every time for $20 extra and they inspect the tires and brakes while at it. My time gets billed at $150 an hour, so I value it. Your mileage may vary on that.
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  167.  @dust_gale3108  Oil changes haven’t cost $20 in over a decade, Boomer! Try $35+, and that’s with your own oil and filter!
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  168. Do them more often, especially if you’re in mountains. 10.000km is best, and try for synthetic oil.
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  169. What do you mean by “refuses to do an oil change?” It’s you refusing to pay for one! They’ll happily do it!
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  170.  @mohammedlabeeb  Of course they are. They will do them for you daily, if you ask. They just aren’t going to do them for free.
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  171. I’ll bet he’ll never be able to explain why “they are the same”, choosing to stick to Toyota’s recommendation alone. How are they the same?! They are not! Absolutely, there is LESS wear and tear on a hybrid engine, especially in urban driving. On highways, not so much. A regular Rav4 with regular (organic oil) in city driving should get 3,000 mile changes, especially in first 2 years. A hybrid with regular oil... 5,000. If you switch to full synthetic... I’d do 10k. But... only after you do your first change at 1,000-2,000 miles. Those metal contaminants are real.
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  172. Are you using your Toyota in heavy city, mountains or to tow? If not, use full synthetic oil and filter and stay at 10k intervals. It’s fine. Organic oil no. Early oil changes are important in the first two years. After that, things are worn in and modern synthetic oil easily runs 10k miles.
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  173. Compression may be higher than an older engine, but it’s not high enough to create premature detonation with the injectors they use, so stick with what the manual says.
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  174.  @pilot1226  The FA24 2.4 turbo engine has variable compression. Its computers adjust the oxygen mixture and ignition timing based on the octane in your fuel. Thus, it will run fine on 87 or 91+. When you run it on 91+, it will compress more and provide more power. However, when you or someone else starts to futz with it (tune) to make it more powerful, the first thing the tuners do is re-program the compression to stay high. That means you can no longer run lower octane fuels without premature ignition (knocking). Stop f’ing with modern cars. They’re too complex even for tuners to do it properly.
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  175.  @tke2414  NO ONE gives a shit about your individual experience! It’s called “anecdotal evidence” and it’s worth about as much as my dog’s turd because for everyone of you, there’s one sho’s had the opposite. The ONLY thing that matters is the statistical average.
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  176.  @eugeniocorpuz8338  So? My last two have been too and constant issues. Now what?
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  177. You’ll get slightly more power out of it and maybe a 5% increase in fuel economy, but no mechanical benefit. If paying 30% more is worth it to you, for a 5% increase, do it.
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  178.  @PAHighlander24  And after that pipeline shutdown we all know that you’re wrong.
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  179. The opposite, in my last two Toyotas.
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  180.  @TheCarCareNut  I don’t base my service on manufacturer recommendations. Toyota also recommend no ATF changes on the Tundra (sealed system). HA! Urban driving has always been a special condition, but it isn’t listed. Too costly for Toyota. Also, synthetic oil and organic oil have vastly different tolerances and change intervals.
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  181.  @TheCarCareNut  I just spoke to my dealership. NYC = short drives and/or cold special condition. Toyota will pay for oil change at 5,000 mile intervals.
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  182.  Fee Fee  Are you 12? Seriously, are you?
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  183.  Fee Fee  So you’re 11 then?
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  184.  Fee Fee  Okay. Just keg us know when you grow up and learn how to discuss the topic instead of just engaging in personal attacks. Until then, you’re done.
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  185.  @juanpaVlz  Why? Manufacturers don’t make spark plugs and no, they’re not specific to models.
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  186. The do add an extra detergent, but it doesn’t really run better. It might have better cleaning effects over time though, but that’s debatable.
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  187. From what I can tell, all Japanese and Canadian assembly Rav4 Hybrids have NiMH batteries. Only the US variants have switched to Lithium-Ion in 2020. There is a limited supply of lithium-ion batteries world-wide right now due to cobalt shortages and high demand for BEVs. Australia is also a very hot climate country, so it may fare better with NiMH batteries, especially up north or in the central areas.
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  188. Ahem... no. Oil looks pure black after 2-3k miles. It has literally NOTHING to do with its purity, viscosity or heat tolerance. Also, a lot depends on your oil type and car utilization. A good oil/filter like Mobil 1, with mostly smooth highway driving, no towing and in a clean environment... The oil comes back clean and usable after even 20k miles. On the other hand, using organic oil in a city or towing, mountains or desert... 3k and it’s dirty. Color has NOTHING to do with it. Look it up online. Plenty of people send oil to labs to be tested.
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  189. Change oil once a year. Oil does go bad, especially the organic kind.
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  190. As a former major car rental operations manager, I cannot stress this enough. Even cars that required 91+ octane got 87, as it was all we had in our pumps. Oil changes were always pushed back. No renter treats a rental car nicely. Body damage was often unreported as cars are self-insured and self-repaired.
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  191. You don’t actually have a choice at the dealership. Your car model will come with one or the other.
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  192.  @mikemccauley3487  There is ZERO science for any statement like that. IF you have an old car where fuel lines were not made to resist ethanol then yes, you need to use non-ethanol fuel. Otherwise there is simply NO proof of that. LITERALLY NONE. And there have been countless studies for this. Also, that’s literally not a direct quote. Did you fail out of elementary school? In this video, he said that using E10 is perfectly fine unless you’re storing gasoline for a long period of time, which no one should be doing anyway, as gasoline, being an organic compound, degrades over time. It literally goes bad.
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  193. $80? For an oil change?! You’re being ripped off. I pay $30.
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  194.  @sugarray4831  Oh okay there, buddy. I’ll let your girl know.
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  195. MPG improvement from ethanol to non-ethanol is generally around 5%. Is the price difference worth that?
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  196.  @njsongwriter  So you’re just basing it off an assumption rather than actual physics and engineering? 😂 Okay. The reality is that non-ethanol doesn’t burn more efficiently. In fact, ethanol alcohol creates a more complete burn in the cylinder, which is why it burns cleaner. The difference in MPGs is solely due to gasoline being more energy dense than ethanol. It’s funny when people compare eating organic to burning non-ethanol because those two are complete opposites in concepts. Ethanol is what cleans the engine and the environment. You’re proof that age isn’t always wisdom.
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  197.  @bwer2  A more complete burn of hydrocarbons puts out fewer emissions. Educate yourself, then comment.
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  198.  @bwer2  I don’t know what you or your voices know, but I assure you, you have NO idea who I voted for.
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  199. Interesting. Why?
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  200. And it does absolutely NOTHING for that 4Runner. Go learn what Octane means.
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  201. @ Are you on drugs? Autoignition temps for gasoline are: 1135° for 87 octane and 1200°+ for 91 octane.
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  202. @ Literally EVERYTHING! You were talking about temperatures of ignition! Then you heavily edited the comment to include timing and power which both again have nothing to do with 120° air temperature, right along with the fact that adjusted timing literally exists to maintain power. You make ZERO sense! 120° is about half of the engine’s operating temperate! The engine will EASILY adjust timing to run on 87 with the same power output. The only issue at those temps are A/C loads.
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  203. @ Again, gasoline has to reach 1200° to detonate with 87 octane. None of your engine will reach any of that from ambient air temperatures. What you’re talking about is a simply a failure of engine cooling, which shouldn’t happen with an engine working properly. The engine will run rich in high temps because hot air is thinner, but that’s not an issue as the change is relatively small compared to say driving in high altitude. None of this impacts combustion though. Heat soaking refers to the radiant heat the engine gives off after it’s shut down. Let me ask you something… Do you often use terms you don’t understand? Did you flunk out of school?
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  204. Same as any other car.
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  205.  @Bonanzoo  What does RR have to do with this? It’s not even a manufacturer! Go learn something about cars, then come back.
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  206.  @NateTrynaMakeMoney  What do you want to see? Reliability figures? Here, READ! https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2020-us-vehicle-dependability-study https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2020-us-vehicle-dependability-study https://repairpal.com/reliability The reality is that for the first three years of ownership, the reliability percentage (how many cars present some failure) varies from 92% for the worst and 98% for the best brand sold, with the bulk of cars being in the 94-96 percentile. That means they’re all basically the same as it all falls into the statistical margin of error. The other reality is that because there are countless variables that impact cars, how they’re used and their owners, there are no very long-term reliability studies on cars, as it’s impossible to do AND… you can’t do a 10 year study on a current year car, can you? So we go by the studies we have, and if you follow them, long-term, you can extrapolate some conclusions - that the car manufacturing world is dynamic and each model varies from another, that if you generalize you’re being stupid and that things change, not every century, but every year.
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  207. My 2005 Camry 2.4 had nothing in common with the current Camry’s 2.5.
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  208.  @moose354  An engine is still cheaper than a car. That’s one stupid argument! No one in the world is thinking, “should I buy 4 quarts of oil today or an engine?” Spending $80 every 3 months or 6 months, on oil changes is, however a real consideration. A person who bought a Corolla may not be able to afford “better safe than sorry” precautionary service intervals. Also, when your car is under warranty you cannot do it yourself.
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  209.  @moose354  I think YOU missed the point. He says to do it EARLIER than on time during break-in, but then defaults to Toyota recommendations, which makes zero sense. He was trained by Toyota to pitch their logic instead of relying on engineering and science. My driving is 90% city. I mean REAL city, stop and go. I live in NYC. Every single car I’ve owned before said 3,000 miles (defaulting to organic oil) in city, mountains, towing or dirty environment. My 2005 Camry just said “5,000”. My 2021 Rav4 hybrid says “10,000”. Meanwhile those same cars with those same engines have other distances listed in other countries. Urban driving isn’t even listed as a reason to do more frequent changes in the Toyota manuals. Why? Toyota capriciously placed arbitrary figures that have NOTHING to do with real world maintenance. Then they said, organic or synthetic oils are the same. That’s a lie too. The truth is that whatever your oil is, you need to clean the system out soon after getting the car, but you need time to first let the engine shed the extra metal debris. Ideally, 2500 miles, then 5000 miles. Factory oil is organic. I would stick to Toyota organic at those changes. Then, I would do a change at 10,000, but now full synthetic and high grade filter. At that point, I would switch to 10k intervals with top end oil/filter. That’s with city driving. I ran my Camry ran on Mobil 1 oil and filters for 15 years (after 1 year of 3,000 mile organic changes) and I changed those every 6,000 miles. I had the oil lab tested twice. Once at 6,000 miles, with 50k on the odometer. It was well within tolerances, with low contaminants. Then I ran 7500 miles with 90k on the odometer and again, it was well within tolerances, but getting close to needing to be changed. So... in NYC driving, that old 4-cyl Camry could do 8,000 mile intervals, safely. Given the nature of my hybrid (that the engine runs only about 50% of the time, mostly when I’m driving faster), there is no reason to do 5,000 mile oil changes after initial break in, with synthetic oil. It’s just money down the drain. Does Toyota want to get into that so technically? No, of course not. Every person’s experience is a bit different, so they just make up a number from the top of their heads, mostly relying on Toyota Care costs, to keep them down, and to create future warranty claim denials. All manufacturers do this.
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  210.  @Gidoza  Rav4’s are made in Japan, Canada and the US. Most Japanese ones are now routed elsewhere, but two years ago that’s what we received. They actually had more problems back then. My wife’s car was assembled in Indiana. Remember, cars are mostly made by robots nowadays.
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  211. The original 2AZ-FE engines had no oil consumption issue. However, after the engine was upgraded to higher compression, higher RPM redline and piston oil squirters, they started to guzzle oil very quickly. You do the math.
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  212.  @binhdangvn  What car? Does it have direct injection?
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  213.  @chrisE815  Most colors in the US come with the weather package, at least in the Northern half of the country. The MSRP is $39,915 plus destination, so $41,090. With the rebate it comes to less than what my XLE Hybrid cost and I didn’t even get a sunroof. Regardless, I told you that prices aren’t my question. Prices differ. My question is how it’s (the Prime) a worse car. It also costs the same as a Hybrid, if you get the rebate. It seems that you’re just an idiot who buys cars without actually looking at them or reading about their equipment. You just watch reviews.
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  214.  @chrisE815  So the FACT is that you’re CLUELESS. You were clueless when you bought the Prime, you were clueless when you started talking about it versus the Hybrid and you’re clueless when you’re comparing to other cars. The Prime has an exact same interior as Hybrid. Same cargo as the Hybrid too. The Prime has 100 more horsepower. After you drive the 42 mile electric charge, it still gets 38mpg combined versus the Hybrid’s 40mpg, on gasoline alone. It literally has a larger cargo space than your old CR-V (factually).
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  215.  @Drskopf  There are tons of everything 1990s running, my man. Also, no one cares about your individual experience. It doesn’t prove the average. That’s not how it works. Did you not take a statistics class?
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  216.  @Drskopf  So you’re just gonna troll? 😂 Seriously, go back to school. Be better!
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  217. Lie. lol. No one breaks in a car for you. Never have, never will. A full break in is about 25k miles anyway. Also, let Toyota service until the warranty runs out or they will deny every warranty claim.
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  218. Don’t run it above 70mph or the RPMs go up to allow the electric motor to spin faster.
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  219. Color of oil is NOT an indicator. It’s black after 1000 miles. That said, for light use, 10k miles is fine with modern, light weight engines. This isn’t 2000 anymore. Now... if you aren’t using it lightly... Toyota does this to offer free maintenance, but not break the bank. Period.
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  220. He works for a dealership, not the company.
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  221.  @RealJohnnyDingo  He does what his boss tells him to. Until you’re the GM you don’t get to do what you want. Even then, you’re still the company’s pawn.
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  222.  @jong7753  Yeah... that 0W-16 oil is a budget killer though. From what I’ve read it’s quite a bit thinner than 0W-20 and long-term, substituting it will kill the oil pumps.
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  223. Never blindly trust those who use you as a source of income. The other reason to make things a certain way in corporate environments is cost control and keeping deadlines.
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  224. Depends on your use. If you use it as an EV most of the time, then less worry. If you use it as an EV, but still do 20 miles on gas after that, it’s perfect. If you use it as an EV, and just 5 miles after that, you need to do more frequent changes. It’s odd.
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  225. Specifically, double check your spark plug spacing. I’d also maybe get new wiring for them. It’s always good yo change that when you change the plugs.
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  226.  @tssci6774  I’m confused as to what octane and ethanol has to do with carbon build-up. Ethanol is a well-known detergent as it is an alcohol, so it does not contribute to carbon build-up. If anything, it reduces it, slightly. Also, using higher octane fuel has no positive effect on carbon build-up in cylinders. It’s just an ignition stabilizer. Using s top tier fuel, on the other hand, is actually useful as they have actual detergents in the fuel that clean cylinders and bottoms of pistons, but no fuel will help you with direct injection carbon issues.
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  227.  @tssci6774  That’s ONLY the case where the engine ignition timing is set to a higher compression and requires a higher octane fuel. If a car is set to (or adjusts itself to) 87 octane ignition then there is ZERO gain from running higher octane, in terms of cleanliness and it DOES NOT create knocking. Knocking only happens when your car requires higher octane than you use. Also, ethanol, like methanol, is MORE flammable, and burns MORE completely than gasoline. Its molecules simply have less stored energy in their bonds. You need to actually educate yourself on these things and not spew random bullshit.
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  228. For 2 years, keep it the same. 1,000 miles, then 5,000. Metal shavings and other contaminants are the issue, not the oil stability. After that, if you use synthetic... 10k is no problem at all. Even 15k if light use.
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  229. Highway driving only runs a car at one setting, with one RPM level, at set heat and conditions. It doesn’t even let the transmission shift. No, the engine needs to stretch and cool, stretch and cool, just like a person. Intervals without high stress.
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  230.  @TheBandit7613  So does ethanol gas. The issue with ethanol is that it absorbs moisture, so over a long period of time of not using it (months to years), you may find some water at the bottom of your tank, which is of course not good. Ethanol is a corrosive to rubbers and sealants, but modern cars use components that aren’t affected by that. If you have an older car (older than 25 years), it may not be resistant to E10 ethanol.
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  231. Break-in finishes around 25,000 miles.
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  232. RON vs PON measures. It’s like meters versus feet.
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  233. I live in NYC, so my first change is with my mechanic at 1,000 miles. I then go to Toyota to do 5,000 change and switch to full synthetic. I do changes every 5,000 until I hit 26,000. Then full synthetic every 10,000k miles. This is for a hybrid, which works much less in a city than a regular engine.
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  234. This applies to ALL cars. BMW would need FAR more consideration.
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  235. Oil color? 🤣 No. Do actual lab tests. Use the same oil/filter.
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  236.  @p6102zrfxe  That’s why we don’t change oil by color, but by time or distance, genius! Oil is black by 2000 miles!
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  237.  @p6102zrfxe  Exactly why you don’t do it by color!!! Chemistry is a real science! Also, you must not change your oil at 4,000 miles because if you had, you’d see the real color. Oil gets dark with temperatures, but... it’s made to withstand high temperatures! It can be black as night, but still maintain its properties. On the flip side, it can be newish and light in color, but contain contaminants and need changing. Go consult bobistheoilguy.com. Read actual chemical tests of others if you don’t want to pay for your own. Or... continue to be ignorant. Your choice!
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