Comments by "Tony Wilson" (@tonywilson4713) on "Project Farm" channel.

@ProjectFarm I just made a similar comment in another thread and this is a great thing you do in your tests. You consider durability. I'm an engineer in the process of getting my own shop set up. And value for money is VERY HIGH on my priority list. I haven't yet decided on a power saw for cutting down stock bars. I'm even considering making one, like a power hacksaw because it can be made from a windscreen wiper mechanism. But no matter what I do I'd need blades and blades cost money. So for someone like me, who doesn't need speed but needs DURABILITY these tests are quite valuable. For me the Diablo wins just slightly ahead of the Irwin, not because its speed (which is in the middle) but because it (like the Irwin) handled "abuse" better than the others. My bet is some of the other blades would be fantastic in both speed and durability if they were kept to the EXACT metal types they are designed for. Great test. If you are looking for suggestions. 1) Portable power BAND saws like the Milwaukee M18FBS, Makita DBP and Dewalt DCS. Yeah I know they are pricey but maybe a couple of the suppliers might want to see a head to head. And yeah making a test rig might be a bit of a hassle but I can help with concepts. 2) Sabre (reciprocating) saw blades. Yeah I know you could do a dozen videos on the different blades available. 3) Small diameter circular saws (blades <= 6" or 6.5") like the Milwaukee M12CCS and Dewalt DCS373 There's some really good reviews on those saws. I saw one with the Milwaukee and the reviewer was chopping up pallets and he commented that for cutting up pallets with the bigger battery it was better than a larger saw because it was lighter and easier to handle yet still had the grunt to do the job.
40
@markashlock9017 try using less drugs and speaking like a human.
17
From an engineer that's great input to a discussion like this. Most notably the issue of up cutting and where you position the piece in the vice. The other thing which I am glad that has been pointed out is the durability. Graph at 15 minutes. The Diablo was clearly slower on that test but also shoed it had handled the abuse of the previous test far better.
14
@ProjectFarm If you do, do another series of tests try endurance testing in the metals they are meant to be used in. So if you're comparing HSS cutters try this. Drill 1 hole in Aluminum then 4 in mild steel and then repeat that sequence 3 or 4 or 5 times with a final hole in aluminum. In other words start in Aluminium and then every 5th hole is back in the aluminum. Don't worry about timing the mild steel. The aluminum is the test the mild steel is just for wear. If you graph the times for the aluminum you should get a fairly good representation of how they are holding up. The other thing to look at is the accuracy of the hole. Is it still the same diameter? That should tell everyone is how well they wear.
5
@ProjectFarm I was about to start writing about a performance loss graph when the last one was shown. That's great work because what it tells is which blades can handle abuse and which ones can't. What I really like about your channel is that you demonstrate the concept of "value for money" and so few reviewers actually do that.
5
@ProjectFarm Simple question. Why didn't you test the Lincoln 191C its a far less expensive welder and more likely of use to the amateur or than the 210 which is without doubt a professional welding unit that no amateur is likely to buy unless that have some massive job like a big boat. Or maybe its possible to test the Lincoln 191C against other Mig/Tig/Arc multifunction units???
2
@ProjectFarm Good effort to try this, but dang this is something really hard to do without some serious testing jigs. There were some obvious flaws in this and to be fair its a very hard thing to do. On the taps you really needed to use a guide and keep them straight all the way through the hole when your testing for the torque. Its simply way to easy to get a tap out of alignment. At 9:33 its obvious the Pittsburgh (on the left) was not straight. If you do this again I'd suggest finding a way to use a spring loaded guide. On the Dies and Nuts you cant just simply put a die in a vice as you did with the Draper (13:55). No matter how you set it up it will deform because its designed to deform. The fundamental difference between a nut and die is that split in the die allows the die to be compressed and cut deeper. In the proper handle you can start cutting a shallow thread with a die and then cut deeper by compressing the die. Putting that die in a vice compressed it and that's why the rod was so lose in the nut In all the tests I have seen you do this was probably the hardest to do. So you get an A+ for attempting it and trying to be fair to the products.
2
@cygnus1965 You also forgot to mention that some of those chemical fire extinguishers they use for cars are also corrosive. An old boss of mine had racing cars and IF the fire extinguishers in them were used the mechanics had to wipe down the car immediately and then AS SOON AS POSSIBLE completely disassemble the car and make sure there wasn't any residue anywhere. There was nothing unusual completely disassembling the cars. They did that after every trip to the track but if a fire extinguisher had been let off they did it with URGENCY.
1