Comments by "Piccalilli Pit" (@piccalillipit9211) on "Tailoring an 1890s Jacket to Live My Victorian Boss Dreams" video.

NOPE - she has yet to learn to draft her own patterns. THEN she will have mastered tailoring. 😀 P.S. Its way easier to draft patterns than you would think.
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I MAKE MENS BESPOKE historical suits 1890 to 1930 and I 100% AGREE - pad stitching the shape into the garment is SO satisfying. You can screw up one of my coats [jackets] in a bag for a month, get it out, give it a shake and it WILL immediately spring back to shape because the shape is INHERENT in the garment - that IS the shape of the garment, you cant even pres it out [I also do a lot of shrinking and stretching as well as tape tensioned edges ]
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PRO TIP - PUTTING IN THE LINING Place the coat on a pillow, lie the lining over the centre lin of the back, insert a metal ruler UNDER the back center seam - Baste top to bottom ADDING EASE of about 1/8th inch every 1". The ruler will stop the needle picking up the pillow. But the pillow will open the coat and present it. Move the ruler 2" to the side and repeat add ease both towards the centre seam AND between the basting stitches. Finish and repeat the opposite side. Keep going until the lining is FULLY covered with basting every 2" Fold in the facing edged ALLOWING EASE - and baste them down 1/4" from the edge ensuring the line is smooth and "fair". Baste between the above bastings to make the lining lay flat on the facings Fell the edge with 1/8th inch felling stitch NO pins should be used in the lining insert process - it should all be basting. TECHNICALLY the lining should be put in in 3 pieces, side, back and side and then felled together - but technically the sides and back should also be 3 separate pieces with the lining basted on them. put together and the sleeves mounted.
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@lonestarr1490 Patterns are way more simple maths than you might think. If your waist is 30" the pieces around your waist should add up to 15" [cos you have two halves to your body] if you want 2" of ease - 16" if you want a 20" trouser bottom they should add up to 20". If your jacket is 30" long - it should be 30" + 2" for the turn up hem. The rest of it is just proportions that come in tables. You start wiht a line for the neck, measure down to the waist draw a line, down to the hem draw a line, 90Deg line down that back shape it in as much as your back sway so say 1", it really is this easy.
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@lyndabethcave3835 Well this could be error or it could be an old [victorian] technique where you press a crease in it and then press it out, this "breaks" the horse hair and stops the front of the lapel roll traveling down the garment with wear as TENDS to happen - think 3 roll 2 BUT she does still have a lot to learn my "NOOO" moment was pressing the fashion fabric on the right side with no press cloth
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@myrna_m YEP - you will never get those two shiny tram lines out of the fabric once you have polished it with the iron pressing a seam. No matter how much you brush it or scrape it with the edge of a knife.
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PRO TIP - USE A MAHNET AS A STITCH GUIDE [a heavy fridge magnet will do] and stick it to your machine as a stitch guide...!!! Your machine is cast iron - it will stick. A magnet from a small speaker would be ideal as it is round and allows you to manipulated curves past it very easily - this is what they used to use in ye oldy days
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@NottaRobot This is the historically accurate method for [mostly men's] clothing where you have a floating lining - sort off, as I say really the lining should be in 3 parts, the coat in 3 parts, applied to each the coat sewn together, the sleeves mounted, the linings closed, the sleeve linings based in and then everything is felled [stitched] together. Women's clothing tended not to have floating linings, they tended to be flat lined
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@maleahlock - OH my mistake - sorry.
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@leechowning2712 - Hi I work in Bulgaria, but I have long covid so I am not doing any work at the moment.
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@faameexplains1192 - I wondered that - but my eyes are not good enough to be sure
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@myrna_m For fully made-up clothes, a steamer is excellent. Mine has just broken cos its modern plastic crap :-/
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@myrna_m - Ive given up buying new things, cos they break so quickly. My tailoring iron is a 14lb USSR made 1929 one that works fine, the electrical connector broke I was able to get a new connector 400 yards from my apartment for $2 here in Bulgaria cos the USSR never changed the electrical connector. My steam generator iron is a electro-mechanical one made by Singer in the 1970's. My sewing machine is a 1960's Singer straight-line machine, I have a piece of electronic plastic crap that I only use for button holes. My serger is a 3rd party version of the 1900's Singer. I buy everything second hand and try to avoid electronics.
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