Comments by "Piccalilli Pit" (@piccalillipit9211) on "Making a Vintage Tuxedo Suit from the 1910s: Historical Tailoring" video.

  1. SAVING THIS FOR LATER to enjoy with a cup of tea...!!! EDIT: Finally 2 weeks later I get to watch it
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  2. EXCESS FABRIC AT THE CLAVICLE AREA - CAUSE AND REMEDY this is common and caused by the shoulder seam being the same length front and back - the tailor would know to add 5/8ths to the back seam when drafting. When sewn together the excess fabric on the back makes the seam curve and forms a HOLLOW at the front under at the clavicle / collar bone - see below for instructions ----> The rear of the shoulder seam needs to be 5/8th to 3/4 longer than the front and the 5/8ths needs to be "eased in" with 3 layers of basting thread each one halving the size of the last stitch to flatten the excess bult, this should then be steamed and pressed to shrink the fabric, then the seam can be machine stitched and the 3 basting threads removed. The 5/8ths - 3/4 should be divided equally at each end of the shoulder seam but the excess should only be eased in in the first 2/3rds of the seam closest to the arm pitch seam. This is a problem that almost ALL new tailors experience especially with historical patters - do the same with waistcoat shoulder seams as well so they fit tight in this area.
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  3. YOU PITCHED THE SLEEVES into the shoulders with absolute perfection - that fabric is SO unforgiving for the shoulder, amazed you dong have UUUUUUU all the way around.
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  4. THIS IS NOT THE CORRECT construction sequence for this period [just FYI]. Fronts and side panels. Pockets. Canvas to fronts. Facings - turn. Front linings basted in. Backs together. Back lining. Sides to back. Bast linings closed. Shoulders. Under collar. Top collar [join shall caller ends] sleeves. Sleeve linings. Pitch sleeves. Baste in sleeve linings. Fell stitch the entire lining. Finish details like buttons and button holes etc.
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