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Piccalilli Pit
Professor Tim Wilson
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Comments by "Piccalilli Pit" (@piccalillipit9211) on "Rory Stewart's overcoat" video.
AS A SEMI PROFESSIONAL TAILOR of men's bespoke historical suits I LOVE Rory Stewarts' "Pea Coat" And as a nation with a LONG naval and sea-fearing tradition, every Brit should love it, Winston Churchill was fond of wearing a Pea Coat. But Campbell is not wearing a tailored waistcoat in the picture - its knitwear - a sleeveless cardigan [a knitted waistcoat would have fob pockets]
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@Turnipstalk Ive just bought 112m of hand-woven Harris Tweed actually. But pea coats are not made of Harris tweed. I buy a lot of quality clothes and a lot of NOS vintage cloth so I am somewhat of an "expert" in this field. The cloth that a 1960's German Navy Pea Coat was made from would be a 19th century mechanical shuttle loom-produced cloth, the very few of these that are still left are producing high quality suiting, no one is making 24 oz or 28 oz basic wool coating. If they do a run at that weight it will be 30% Cashmere to justify the very valuable loom time. You can buy 24 oz black wool coating but its made on a projectile loom and YES it will be very expensive simply for the weight or wool in it, but it will still not have the density of weave as projectile looms just dont produce high density weave, so it will let more wind through. The other issue is the wool will have a lot more of the lanolin washed out of it as the high speed projectile looms cant cope with greasy wool, it gums up the mechanism. To get the quality of wool your coat was made from you literally have to buy vintage cloth.
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@b00ts4ndc4ts Same here - Any style, just have A style.
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Actually, I did - they were very popular with the aristocracy in the 1950's
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@Turnipstalk It would be hard to replace that quality - the woll cloth is simply not made today of that quality
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