Comments by "Piccalilli Pit" (@piccalillipit9211) on "V. Birchwood"
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THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIDEO's I have watched in a LONG time, you have touched on SO MANY things that I have thought or felt myself...
1) People in the past DID NOT LIKE being uncomfortable or wet or cold or too hot any more than we do - that revelation came as a shock to me
2) Strange "fashions" of the past usually had purpose - "plus fours" look a bit daft, until you walk your dog through long wet grass and suddenly you realise WHY people wore them
3) I have literally developed an appreciation of the season I never had from being dressed appropriately FOR the season - there is NO such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing
4) Cloaks are the single best garment in history [your Winter outfit] there is a reason people wore cloaks for over 2000 years - quick to put on, super warm, waterproof, comfortable BRILLIANT
5) Modern clothing is baggy or elasticated to make up for not fitting AT ALL. Close fitted clothing that FITS is WAY more comfortable than baggy
6) Insulation works BOTH ways - a thick wool hat will keep your head cool in 40ºC direct sunlight
7) Wool is the king of fabrics, it keeps you warm, it keeps you cool, it keeps you dry and its a joy to sew with
8) Silk is the queen of fabrics, it keeps you warm, it keeps you cool, it looks gorgeous and its horrible to sew with
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MY LIFE IS BETTER when it has a lot of hand sewing in it, like you I meditate whilst I sew and I find it extremely beneficial for my mental health.
I also NEVER do housework when it HAS to be done, I never nagg myself that it should be done, I do it when I feel like it - and guess what, it all gets done, we exhaust ourselves with our internal nagging, and when I do it, I try to do each thing correctly and with calm dedication, I ONLY do that ONE task that I am doing, I'm not rushing to the next, I wash the plate I hold.
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I HAVE BEEN TAILORING men's historical clothing for 2 years now - these are MY top tips.
1) Buy a vintage SINGER STRAIGHT LINE SEWING MACHINE pref 201k if you can but any solid metal - NO ZIG ZAG - NO FEATURES. Get it professionally serviced. The difference between this machine and even a 1980's metal Singer zig zag machine is night and day - it will transform your LIFE.
2) Buy a cheap "disposable" plastic modern machine for button holes [though you can get a button hole attachment for the singer], overlocking, zig zag, decorative stitches etc
3) Buy multiple colours of quality chalk
4) Buy an INCH and a CM tape measure - when drafting you put the NUMBER on your mark - you stretch the tape out and you mark AT THE METAL END i.e 14" to 0" mark at zero
5) Buy either an old heavy vintage steam iron that weighs 1.5kg the Bakelite and metal ones OR just bite the bullet and buy a professional tailors iron
6) Buy / make pressing weights - when you PRESS a seam you then need a heavy metal plate to hold it in place whilst the fabric cools and dries - this is incredibly important
7) Old electric cooker cast iron hot plates make AMAZING pattern weights, look out at the council recycling place for an old hob
8) The "closing seam" is the last seam on a garment to be sewn up - many vintage drafting instructions will mention this but Google has no idea
9) A "scky" is an arm hole
10) Tailoring is a series of separate jobs. Making a jacket is a massive task, but actually, it is about 50 small separate tasks, you don't need to be good at making a jacket. You just need to practice the tasks. So cut out the patter, do the bits you can do. When you get to doing a "welted pocket" - just watch a Youtube video on making a welted pocket and practice 4 or 5 times on scraps of fabric, then do your welted pockets. Move on. DONT BE scared of large projects.
11) there is ALWAYS a great YouTube video telling you exactly how to do each step - even if you THINK you know, watch a video...
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