Comments by "fialee8" (@fialee8) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. Without seeing the video, I'm going with Knipex.
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  2. That's some scary stuff they are selling these days. Good video on safety risks... Thanks!
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  3. Almost all modern combustion cars today can last 200K miles with good care, even cheapie Kia's and Chrysler's. They keys are 1) don't drive them hard (full throttle starts, hard stops); 2) change the oils and other fluids at least recommended intervals, or earlier; 3) don't over tax the engine and tranny (don't haul heavy items often). If you drive a car hard, and don't change the fluids often, it'll get you past the warranty (36K miles), but be ready for expensive car repair bills in the near future.
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  4. It would be interesting if you actually tried OEM motor oil from GM, VW, Honda, Toyota, etc vs the off the shelf. We always hear aftermarket is the same, but is it really?
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  5. Thanks for the review! I do miss the old stand by Craftsman brand (but they are now made in China). One thought when watching the video is about the metal. In looking at all the various tools you've reviewed it would be interesting if you had a way to test metal hardness (HRC). I know they use HRC for knives, but it would be interesting to see how hand tool metals (or anything else metal for that matter) are the same or different. Just looking online, such a tool could cost around $1,500-$4,000 depending on the device. Something to consider, something to include when you do comment on tool teeth durability, sharpness, and wear.
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  6. You can tell a man or bald person came up with these tests (purely analytical). Most people with long hair, or take care of their hair would rarely use high heat on their hair... as it will damage the hair. It's not about just water evaporation... it's about drying the hair with the least amount of damage, and keeping the scalp healthy.
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  7. Thank you! I've been waiting to see this one for a while now!
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  8. Finally, something the everyday guy can relate to!
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  9. If your Enloops were really 1900 vs 2000.... then you should add about 5% to all your scores. That would put Enloops near the top end of performance (vs the middle of the pack).
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  10. This was a fun one! :) If you do a part 2... try some really cheap brands from WalMart, JC Penny, Kohl's, and Target. While the MSRP on these jeans are also in the $50 range, but on sale and after discounts, they often sell for <$20 a pair.
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  11. Given many home breakers are 15 amps... it can handle 1,800 watts (15 amps x 120 volts) continuous load... so it's extremely unlikely there are any home handheld appliance using over 1,800 watts. Sure, there are 20 amp breakers (2,400 watt max), but given most people don't know their breaker amperage, appliance makers are going to build to the lower amp rating. Plus, most electricians are going to say use up to 80% for safety purposes or 1,440 watts for a 15 amp breaker.
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  12. While you tallied up the part costs for the repairs... you didn't provide what the shop estimate of time charged vs how much time you ended up using. I understand the shop prob used the book rate for time... which is prob inflated by 200% or more if the mechanic is experienced. But it would be good to see the difference... plus how much a mechanic charges. In California, I think the Honda dealer shop rate is ~$200/hr.
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  13. I have a set of Witte that came with a Knipex VDE kit. While they are made in Germany, I don't use them too often. Any thoughts on that brand?
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  14. Here's a possible idea for future testing. Large home fans/air circulators. With a hot summer coming soon, I think a lot of subscribers would be interested in you testing various large fans. Some recommended models could be the cheap box fan (WalMart or Amazon), 783 Vornado (large, brushed), 783DC Vornado (large, brushless), 683 Vornado (medium size), basic 16" and 18" stand fan (WalMart or Amazon), and maybe 42" tower fan or a commercial garage fan. Testing could include: CFM per mode (Hi/Med/Low), power consumption per mode, db per mode, and you can get creative to test air flow distance (does it blow 5ft or 10ft or 30ft?).
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  15. Having owned many many kitchen knifes... I found that Mercer Genesis is a very very good value for the dollar. It's very affordable, easily available online, use of German steel, keeps a very sharp edge for a long time, forged, and NSF. The only downsides are that it's made in Taiwan, half tang, and it's a little heavier than most knifes. I would rate Mercer Genesis higher than Victorinox knives at similar price points. That said, I've owned that Farberware set before, and it's not very good, and not worth even $20 (unless you have no knives at all).
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  16. For your emergency kit, I would include gloves, assorted zip ties, a pen flash light or a headlamp flight with elastic, along with a couple of ink pens & paper/masking tape. From experience, my cars seem to have problems at night. 😢
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  17. While not the sexiest product to test, what about writing instruments such as ball point, gel, and markers. It's an everyday product which everyone uses, and has several of them (often frustrating when it doesn't write, or doesn't write on certain surfaces, or it become dried out after a while). You can get them from WalMart or Amazon, and test smearing, smoothness of writing, different surfaces (metal, glass, plastic, tape, wood, cement, etc), fade resistance, temperature (freezer), amount of ink, tip durability (PSI till crushed), and case toughness (lbs to crack or snap in half). I can imagine some pretty cool testing gadgets you can build to conduct some of these tests. Brands you can test include cheapie BIC, regular pencil, Papermate, Pentel Energel, Pilot G2 or Pilot FreXion (erasable ink), Uni-Ball 207, Sharpie marker, grease pen, laundry pen, ball point, etc.
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  18. This is very interesting. I do appreciate you showing what bits come with each tool... as some have proprietary bits, which means it's impossible to find replacement bits, or you need to buy a new ratcheting screwdriver. I like the PB Swiss, but it's a bit pricey... but I think you can buy spare PB Swiss bits, along with using standard 1/4" bits from other brands. Thanks for the mechanism tear downs... always love to see the guts of tools.
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  19. Interesting tests... something I wouldn't have thought of. Given Back-to-School is just around the corner, maybe do a part 2 for home/school/office lunch box tests? You basically compared an insulated bag to an ice chest here. There are other's which are prob closer to Scoobie (how many kids or office worker going to lug a 7lb lunch box around?). I've seen Bento, Zojirushi, and other lighter weight lunch boxes, kits, containers. Just like flashlights, I have way too many lunch boxes myself. I personally like my Coleman since it has a hard plastic container/liner... and combining it something like a Pack-It (with frozen gel) with it keeps cold stuff really cold. Or if I have hot soups or liquids, Zojirushi screw type bento containers work very well. Thanks for the review!
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  20. While I love German tools, but testing downward pressure with a Wiha striking screwdriver (with a solid metal shaft from tip to cap), vs a Wera green (vs the yellow handle for Wera with striking cap) or other non-striking screwdriver should be no test at all.
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  21. Can you do a part 2 but with larger bags such as the 40-45gallon size? I've noticed that many brands offer <1MIL (consumer light duty) to 1.2MIL (consumer medium) to 3MIL (contractor) thickness... and some off "flex" type technologies. I know Costco no longer sells a Kirkland size of this, and has moved to Husky (about ~$0.28/bag), while a seller through WalMart sells Trasker 40gal 1.2MIL bags for about $0.17/bag ($9.98 per 100 plus $6.99 shipping). It would be interesting to test thickness, to see if they are misleading people, or accurate. There's also Sam's Club, and similar brands you have in this video. One twist to the testing could be, if you double bagged a 1.2MIL bag (or even triple bagged), is that better than a single 3MIL bag? Would that save or waste money?
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  22. I think you demonstrated what a layperson would look at when buying a knife sharpener. Points you are missing, is the angle of the knife sharpener... which can be 15 degrees vs 20 degrees, which make a big difference. In addition, you can strop the blade edge, and get an extremely sharp edge from any of the sharpeners. I was surprised the electric sharpeners didn't get the blade as sharp as the factory edge, since that prob took off the entire dull edge (maybe due to having a burr on one side of the edge).
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  23. If the high mileage oil is better... why would anyone buy the regular oil, vs just using the high mileage oil from the start? Is there any downside?
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  24.  @ProjectFarm  Just FYI, I really like JC Penny clothes. They are very inexpensive when they go on sale and stack discount codes. Plus, you can buy gift cards for around 20% off... so you can buy jeans for <$12-$15, and polo shirts <$8-$10 all said and done. They also have excellent size offerings online.
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  25. Mercer makes some very good knives for cooking... German steel. These are western chef's knives, not Japanese knives. Lastly, it was unclear if some of these sharpener's re-edged at 15 degrees or 20 degrees. That said, any ceramic sharpening with a strop, if done correctly, you can get it razor sharp-sharp. Low quality knives can get super sharp, but won't hold it's edge long (soft metal). Testing knives metal hardness would be very interesting... which knife can hold their edge the longest.
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  26.  @qwertmom  I suspect it's in relation to the length of time hair is exposed to heat. So that statement is partially right... heat damages hair, so less time exposed to heat should translate to less damage. However, it does not account for heat intensity. Just like drying clothes... high heat may get your clothes drier faster, but it will ruin delicate clothing like silk and rayon (and shrink cotton).
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  27. @ It likely depends on each person's hair type... thin, oily, coarse, been treated, colored, long/short, etc. I'm not an expert, but I would think hair dryer a combination of actual (real vs claimed) high/low CFM/air flow & settings, multiple heat/no-heat settings, and varied attachments. The more ways the hair dryer can be adjusted and attachments, the more likely someone can find the sweet spot for their hair (and also increase the air flow and/or heat in a pinch).
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  28. @ I think it's much better than just keeping it on high all the time. That said, I would recommend the next time you get your hair cut, and ask the person working there. They should be a licensed cosmetologist, and have both education and training on hair care. As with all recommendations, it's wise to get a second or third opinion if possible.
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  29. These all suck... esp if someone has a wide neck, or sensitive skin. I think they used to make a cheapie version (similar, but even cheaper than Scurry) with tiny fans on bendy arms... that is much better because it's 1) lighter around the neck, 2) you can direct the fans to near infinite directions, and 3) it's cheap. The only downside is that the fans aren't that powerful.
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  30. This was a fun one... thanks. I personally love Shout, and use Oxi (esp if it's blood). If you decide to revisit this, I think blood, ball point pen, and gel pen ink stains might be interesting since those are also very common stains. One product you missed was just plain bleach as a stain remover. I found that to be a very good stain remover, or to lighten stains. Maybe for a future round 2.
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  31. I have the Arrow, and it works fine. However, if you are trying to staple something on the ceiling reaching up at an angle, while on a ladder, it's very much a pain given you need 33.5lbs of squeezing power. If you got five staples, not a problem... if you got more, it get's somewhat tiring. I wish I knew (and bought) a Citadel. Thanks for the reviews. If I need an electric stapler, I'll prob have to go w/a Milwaukee already on three different battery ecosystems today, don't want to add a fourth (for Makita or Ryobi).
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  32. Thank you! Very interesting. In your opinion, do yo think more fan blades, or wider vs thin fan blades make a difference in air movement? Also, in your next round, you can also test RPM, since you have that too... and it would be interesting to see how that converts to CFMs like you did with power. Even with the tests, I'm a fan of Vornado (both fans and heaters).
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  33. That's too dangerous to be using with anyone close by. One slip up. you can cut someone's head in half, or cut off your hand.
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  34. When testing for hand tools, it would be good to start adding in Amazon Basics into the mix. Given that Amazon is now selling tons of hand tools, and is basically available to everyone in the USA (it's just as easy to order from Amazon vs going to Wally World, HD, or Lowes). For example, an Amazon Basics 1/2" Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-150ft lbs), it's $34.48. That's a hard price to beat... with a 4.3 out of 5 stars, and 5,614 reviews as of today. While I typically like German or Japanese tools, but for the rare case I need a torque wrench, $35 seems like a deal.
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  35. I would actually rank the Pink Kit first for a newbie homeowner or apt renter since it comes with a drill (which I assume can also be used as an electric screwdriver). I agree with your assessment that Craftsman or Kobalt would be very good kits.. but your didn't mention both also come with no-hassle lifetime replacement warranties from that big box blue & white home improvement store across the US. While you performed extreme stress tests... but basic things like phillips screwdriver stripping is very common, and it's great to get a free replacement.
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  36. Cousin Eddie is watching too much TV... he's turning into Auntie Eddie.
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  37. I bought a four pack of Energizer headlamps off Amazon when they had a 50% off sale for about net $12 (or $3 each). They use 3xAAA batteries, super light weight, have a red tint option, and have hi/lo LED light beams, and prob 250-400 Lumens. Works great, and about 10 secs to swap out new batteries. Unless someone is doing brain surgery, they prob don't need a super bright light.
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  38.  @DanKaschel  The SATA, Lenox, and Klein bits are dual end tips, so those are clearly not standard 1/4" bits. The Milwaukee has some long bits (but unclear if 1/4" would fit, and convert it into a stubby).
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  39. At the end of the day, any tool set is better than no tool set.
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  40. You must be reading my mind... I was looking at the regular Grab It yesterday, but saw a bunch of Chinese knock-offs. Looks like I'm going to buy the Grab It, vs the cheaper items. Thanks!
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  41. Having an almost un-natural need to get my white's very white, I've experimented often on how to best clean whites. Your tests may be consistent, but it's not set up to maximize cleaning. Two big flaws in your testing is 1) not using enough water. Even if you are washing a few items... using more water will greatly help cleaning. 2) you washed in cold. While mfg say you can use cold water... hot water definitely will give you better performance. Other things you didn't do is pre-treat the stains. If you pretreat even a little bit, your stains will definitely see an improvement (in the future, you can try laundry testing pre-treatments... Shout, OxyClean, bleach, Borax, direct detergent, etc), plus a pre-soak or pre-wash. I use a little boost of Borax, OxyClean, bleach, Tide, and wash in hot water and not overloading. This combo will get your whites unnaturally white, like if you just bought it. If your whites are been dingy white for a while, continue to wash your whites like this, and you'll see them get bright white over time.
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  42. It was hard to tell, but the reg oil didn't look like it was fully drained. It would explain why it ran longer than the Slick 50.
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  43. An interesting test as always... but it got me thinking about the handle width. When test arc swing, would it be better to have something closer to the head to test arc swing, vs having the handle limiting the arc swing? I understand that how a big handle could limit the arc swing, but is that how the industry test arch swing?
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  44.  @ProjectFarm  Thanks. I'm assuming this is straight labor hours and excludes camera set up time and any parts ordering/pick-up time, but includes jacking up the car, setting jack stands, etc. Let's round up to 16hrs... x $200 = $3,200. Given you aren't a mechanic, thinking the shop you went to may have padded the labor a bit (or $5,000 divided by 16hrs = $312/hr or about ~50%).
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  45. Exterior paint test please! :)
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  46. Just use OEM or OEM recommended fluids and gasses. Your equipment will run longer, and likely better. Save $20 to run the risk of getting a $1K-$2K car A/C repair/replacement job is a bad ROI or gamble.
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  47. Before even watching this video... I'm going to guess that 100% of all chargers are Made In China.
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  48. I really liked how you used previously reviewed products in this repair video. I think if you enjoy putting these car (or maybe other product) repair videos, want to help others to try making their own repairs, you may consider putting a beginner's auto tool kit, with recommended products (many you've already done reviews on) gloves, safety equipment, wrench sets, pliers, torque wrench, etc. Other kits you can consider such as basic home toolbox (for new home owner, or moving out for the first time), cleaning your AC, car wash kit (review pre-set kits, and/or build your own kit), in-home cleaning kits (kitchen, carpet, bathroom), etc. If you haven't done a review on the items yet, it can give you a chance to review them (such as bathroom kit soap scum removal, hard water removal, use of toilet tank/bowl cleaners, etc).
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  49.  @ProjectFarm  Yeah, I know you did a kit video for your car a while back. I think that may have been useful for a lot people. Maybe you can run a poll or something to see if there's interest in this or not... or what kit would be most interesting to your subs.
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  50. Is Cousin Eddy loosing his (orange) hair?!?! Time to a test on regrowing hair options (Rogaine, Propecia, implants, light helmet).
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