Youtube comments of Bernadette Banner (@bernadettebanner).

  1. Apologies to all of you suffering through this video after having it assault your recommendations senselessly and for utterly 0 reason, but here we all are. 😬🤔
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  2. Some Important Information you might have missed: -As per the description, this gown consumed approximately 2.5 rolls of toilet paper. -As per the epilogue of this video, the dress is at the moment being systematically disassembled as it is reused as actual toilet paper. -The toilet paper used was from the single 6-pack purchased the week previously, my first toilet paper purchase since before NY went into lockdown. There was plenty more on the shelf. Further toilet paper purchases are not expected to be required for another 2-3 months. No hoarding has been committed for the making of this video. -This video is not intended to promote excessive and wasteful consumption of resources. As with anything we buy or make, one must consider the continuing useful life of all materials involved. We cool now? (If you're just out here looking for excuses to hate for personal enjoyment, carry on then; we are in part here for your entertainment, after all, and this video admittedly doesn't provide much educational value.)
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  3. This video was shot over several days and in full compliance with Guinea Pig Labor Laws, consisting of 30-minute maximum work days with mandatory snack breaks every 10 minutes.
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  4. Hey by the way racist/white supremacist comments basically saying 'bUt bLaCk pEoPLe aReNt HiStoRiCaLLy aCcUraTe' are getting removed real fast so honestly don't even waste your time. See also: the entire thesis of this video pointing out that one of the goals of the show is to make American history more intrinsically relatable to modern Americans of all ethnic backgrounds, and representation is crucial to cultivating that feeling of relatability. If you want to see this story told with only white people, go watch 1776.
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  5. On the subject of safety: while the intent of this experiment was to test the making and application of these recipes within the context of the average at-home Victorian, all recipes were assessed and approved by 21st century chemists before filming to ensure that no harm would be done when using these ingredients in a casual, non-laboratory setting, as would have been done in the 19th century. The steps which did require additional safety precautions were performed out the window and/or with respiratory protection. As stated in the video, please conduct thorough research before attempting any historical recipe. This video is intended for educational and entertainment purposes, and is not a tutorial.
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  6. I am a literal trash human being and failed to work the designer of Harriet, Paul Tazewell, in the script of that section. 😵😵😵 Thus herein lies my dedicated Appreciation Post for Paul Tazewell and his team, on that film as well as just generally. You may be familiar with his work on Hamilton--and thus may also have caught my previous analysis of his brilliant strategy on adapting historical dress for demanding choreography!
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  7. Hi All! Sorry for the delay in getting the captions back on this--it's a long one, so they're still in progress, but should be in by end of today if you require captioning. ALSO apparently it is now a thing that YouTube INSISTS on automatically stuffing 12 midroll ads into every video which MAKES ME RAGEY. I've unticked the midroll ads box that keeps somehow re-ticking itself despite opting out of this new system entirely, so if you see any midroll ads in this (or any of my other videos) please let me know--I work way too hard on editing a nice calming story into my videos to have that constantly interrupted by ads. 😑 EDIT TO ADD: as much as I hate midroll ads, I canNOT condone the use of ad blockers on YouTube (especially). If ads are not getting through to you, creators are not getting paid . I used to be an ad block user myself but whitelisted YouTube when I found this out, before turning it off altogether, as I realise now how important advertising is in bringing us good online content to be accessed for free. That being said, it's up to creators and online distributors to be reasonable about advertising-- to let it exist in a way that pays the bills but does not interfere with enjoyment of the content (as I personally believe mid-roll ads do to my videos). But I leave pre- and post-roll ads on for a reason--because I do need to make a living if I'm to continue devoting my full time to creating complex videos regularly. This video alone took over 35 hours to edit--and that's not including the month and a half I spent sewing (and shooting) the dressmaking process. I'm paid only per thousand monetised views, and according to my analytics I'm receiving compensation for a bit under 2/3 of the views the video actually gets. Some of these are intentional--YouTube doesn't serve ads to viewers who have been watching a lot of content (because that would be annoying)--but the majority of this is due to users viewing with ad blockers. Thankfully I'm doing just fine with ad revenue, despite adblock users and without midrolls--but not every creator is so lucky . I know ads suck, but...so does paying for 9028359074 subscription services to view all the paywalled content on the internet. Thank you for coming to my TED talk :)
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  8. I COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY FORGOT to address ‘bloomers’ which are NOT IN FACT UNDERGARMENTS! You’ll notice in the video that I’ve only used the term ‘drawers’ to refer to that bifurcated undermost layer, because that’s the term most overwhelmingly prevalent in history. Bloomers, the item of radical reform dress based off of Turkish fashions, were initially adopted in New York in 1851 by Elizabeth Smith Miller. So where does Amelia Bloomer come in to give them the ‘bloomer’ name we know so well today? She was just the editor of the temperance magazine, ‘The Lily’, and responsible for printing an article describing these—an article, by the way, which she apparently didn’t even initially create, as she writes, ‘the first article we saw advocating [the bloomer style] was an editorial in the ’Seneca County Courier’, which article we transferred to our columns.’ (The Lily, June 1851) Yeah, I don’t really get it either. History is a troll sometimes. 🙃 Oh, and ‘bloomers’ weren't even popularised in rational dress styles until the 1890s, nearly 40 years later. TLDR: bloomers are not frilly underpants, they're a questionably-named outer garment.
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  9. I hope this didn't come off as a Seriously Critical Review--all you designers are awesome and deserve standing ovations for your contributions to the fabulous hilarity of this unique internet-wide collaboration. 😁 ✨
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  10. Get the exclusive NordVPN deal here: https://nordvpn.com/bernadette. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee!
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  11. For those of you who missed the move posts/video mentions, yes--after some minor (read: 11-month) pandemic-related delays, I've finally been granted a visa to come and work in the UK. Yes, Lord Cesario has come with me. Yes, there will be a new workroom setup vlog, but probably not for a few months as it will take some time to acquire things around the lockdown restrictions here, and I'm trying to find as much as I can secondhand or through independent craftsfolk. :)
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  12. Bonus points to anyone who caught the pad stitching masterclass with Barbara last week and can figure out all the things I do wrong in pad stitching the collar! ;D
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  13. So this video has been done and listed quietly for a number of days now, but I just haven't felt right releasing it to the public and potentially distracting from the voices of black creators that need to be heard with particular strength. This is to say: do not be alarmed if you see comments dating several days back--these are from early access Patrons; the publication date of this video is correct, and your notifications are probably working fine. :) BUT, just because I've finally decided to publish this video does not mean that the voices of our PoC creator friends do not still need to be heard. Here are a few of my personal favorite black creators/channels, who I would highly encourage you to check out! Feel free to boost your faves below. x This webseries, Black Girl in a Big Dress, follows the story of a black historical costumer and her struggles to engage with 21st century life: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsfdAYPzeQ7kPLZ9-pz2I2Q Cheyney of Not Your Momma's History, a black reenactor and living historian striving to educate on the real history of American black and enslaved people: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEVpwIpE7PpD2rt1SGtAkJw Dandy Wellington on all things vintage menswear and lifestyle. He's so close to monetisation--go give him some watch time! https://www.youtube.com/user/indiglonyc TinyAngryCrafts, who has relatively recently joined the CosTube ranks! https://www.youtube.com/user/okamishoujo If you're into BookTube, I've just discovered NayaReadsandSmiles and have been greatly enjoying her videos! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC52OEyEFO3p-5Qkahcv0REg
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  14. Once again thanks to June's Journey for bringing us all together in Boston for the weekend ❤️ If you haven't already, join us in the brand new Detective Lounge update for June's Journey here ➡️ https://pixly.go2cloud.org/SH1WB
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  15. Popping in here to let you know that I’ll be on a little 2-week hiatus from regular Saturday uploads, as I’m headed back to England in December! Which means that the next two weeks will be focused on finishing up sewing projects and filming lots of things to take with me so that hopefully we can keep on schedule whilst my attention is momentarily fractured across projects for the next two months. :)
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  16. Real quick impulse-vlog that I thought c. 3 of you might enjoy! See you back next week with some Real Proper Content: I’ve got some accurate costume movie recommendations for you. ;)
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  17. Wait this is a brilliant idea
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  18. 🥲
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  19. I'm here for it if we're not all dragging giant pizza slices through train stations in 2021, I will be sorely disappointed.
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  20. Look, the crafty life is a dangerously slippery slope…
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  21. I should probably note that I ended up having to remove the gorgeous trim down the front of the overgown for sizing, but rest assured that the beautiful Nami Sparrow added it to her gown for the ball, which you can see briefly at 26:39!
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  22. :0
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  23. Nah I've had it for a while but just thought it Too Fancy for filming talky videos, then realised that Occasion-Appropriate Fashion is dead now and I can do what I want 😎
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  24. Essentials 😎
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  25. YEP researching this took approximately 25 weights off of my shoulders. 👀
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  26. Hand & Lock’s Expert Embroidery Guide: Throughout this film, many references have been made to various embroidery techniques & processes. Below, the Hand & Lock team have put together this helpful guide to recap on each. Each process chosen for this project was carefully considered and utilised to replicate the 18th century waistcoat design chosen by Bernadette and her team, as closely as possible. ‘Hand Guided’ is a form of machine embroidery that requires a person to physically control the machine, and manually manoeuvre the fabric under the needle as the machine sews, creating fluid embroidered shapes. The beauty of hand guided, is that it has an organic aesthetic and often the embroidery artists individual style is evident in the work. ‘Digital Machine embroidery’ is a modern, computerised technique which requires expertise with both digital embroidery design softwares and complex machinery. Digital embroidery must be carefully designed and rigorously prepared to ensure a successful outcome where the two elements work seamlessly together. Experienced digital embroidery designers are able to manipulate their stitch files to mimic the effects of hand guided or hand embroidered stitching. ‘Hand Embroidery’ is an umbrella term that covers many of the highly specialised techniques mentioned, all of which are created completely by hand. These include: ‘Goldwork’ is the ancient art of highly decorative embroidery using metal bullion wires. Bullion wires are tightly wound metal springs that come in long lengths. It is another umbrella term that has many more specific techniques within it. The main Goldwork techniques we have used in this project are: ‘Cutwork’- is a process where bullion is cut down to size and the embroiderer can use it like a 'flexible bead', passing their needle and thread down the centre of the spring to stitch it onto the fabric. ‘Essing’- is a technique where the bullion wire is manipulated by the embroiderer, stitching it down at angles to create curved shapes. ‘Passing’ - is a thick goldwork thread made of a cotton core wrapped in metal. It can be used like a normal thread and stitched through the fabric, or it can be worked only on the surface and 'couched' down. 'Couching': is the method of laying materials on the surface of your fabric, and stitching over them to attach them down. 'Embellishment': refers to the application of beads and sequins. 'Silk shading': uses colourful silk or cotton threads, in long and short stitches to create blending. You can try all of these hand embroidery techniques for yourself with the Hand & Lock X Bernadette Banner Embroidery Kit. The kit includes a panel of pre- machine embroidered fabric for you to work on top of! If you would like to find out more about Hand & Lock, including their bespoke embroidery services, ready made products, and worldwide embroidery classes, please visit: https://handembroidery.com/
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  27. Do it!!! I've definitely heard of traditional kimono makers who use the same technique of moving the fabric rather than the needle, it's so interesting to hear you do the same. Do please let me know if you get to making that video! x
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  28. That is 10000% the plan! Particularly dress historians and academics who specialize in different cultures/eras!
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  29. 😏
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  30. This is only the embroidery labor cost and doesn’t account for materials or the tailoring! Or… designer markups. 😅
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  31. Nicole: somehow manages to make hand sewn stays look fun and pleasant and easy instead of their actual soul-sucking, finger-destroying reality 😵😵😵
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  32. CAN YOU EVEN IMAGINE THOUGH when you come visit, we're going to some m a n n e r h o u s e s and getting some epic drone shots running through moors and stuff. It Is Decided.
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  33. Only The Best cinematic universe 😤👌
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  34. So, guess who completely forgot to talk about where to actually find the book in this video about writing the book. 😅 🤚 Pre-order info below! "Make, Sew and Mend" is now available for pre-order through most large book retailers, and will be released officially on the 17th May, 2022. Visit https://linktr.ee/makesewandmend to find a copy for yourself, or pop into your local indie bookshop to enquire after a copy. NON-US ORDERS: International distribution and translation is done on a country-to-country basis. Large book retailers such as Amazon and Book Depository should be able to ship to most places in the world, but information on national distribution and translations will be forthcoming after official publication. GERMAN EDITION: https://www.topp-kreativ.de/die-kunst-des-naehens-27005
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  35. YAAAAAAS Raissa!! ✨
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  36. I HAVE BEEN BLESSÉD
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  37. Tweed Goblin is my identity now 🙃
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  38. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
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  39. feeds tasty pocketses to EditingGoblin
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  40. How did we do? Did we miss any? Anything you'd re-tier?
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  41. Oh yes. That is the subject for an entirely dedicated video. 😎
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  42. The list of Things I Absolutely Should Not Be Spending My Time On grows ever longer 😏
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  43. This world is probably not built to handle the level of wholesomeness that would undoubtedly ensue. 😌
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  44. Dani looking out for me as usual 😂👌
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  45. Obviously, because before the 20th century women just didn't have legs[1]. [1] Primary Sources
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  46. My favourite loon xxx
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  47. This is extraordinary! Thank you for sharing (the information and the machine). I promise I will give her a very loving home. 😌x
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  48. She's making us all feel better about our own non-Bertha-Banner-approved stitching. 😅
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  49. *quakes with excitement* SOON
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  50. I think that’s such a good idea to have to disclaim the retouching done on commercial material, I don’t doubt that’s too far off for the rest of us!
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  51. Good to know 😉
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  52. But internet people aren't real! We are merely figmentary players, existing purely for entertainment and third-person discussion!
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  53. Victorian underthings are a 10/10 necessity.
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  54. There's quite a lot of extra room in the upper sleeve which I was wondering about--then realised that this is probably a historical feature for this exact reason! 😁
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  55. You can do it 💪💪
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  56. You can, on his channel! See description for links.
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  57. Go to https://nordvpn.com/bernadette or use code bernadette to get a 2-year plan plus a bonus gift with a huge discount.
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  58. yes 🙃
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  59. I will most certainly feature her in a video when she arrives!
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  60. Ok, The People say dusk; it's spookier that way anyway. 😎
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  61. Piles and Naps no longer exist. Everything is Floofs.
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  62. It's not a reduction at all! So long as you're getting something beneficial out of the videos, be it sewing advice or historical tidbits or pretty pictures or project inspiration or just a sense of calm, I am content. :)
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  63. My life is so much more improved knowing that teenage steempunktrash Hildegard von Blingin existed
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  64. I mean, I have always wanted to attempt a Regency dandy look... 😏
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  65. This is BRILLIANT and I may or may not steal this for future purposes. 😆
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  66. THE QUEEN HAS ARRIVEDDDDD
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  67. Well spotted, that is in fact the lace on the actual combinations, which has been pulled through the neckline of an otherwise modern dress that has been kicking around the back of the closet for a few years. :)
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  69. Oh my goodness your music is absolutely beautiful!! That is ever so kind of you to offer. Excuse me whilst I go on a listening binge now. 😯
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  70. aaaaa I mean I literally cannot say anything against them--these are the people who trained me 😅😅😅😵
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  71. I accept all of this 😁
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  72. Don't forget to get your 20% off your custom formal here: https://cen.yt/function_banner
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  73. tbh I think next to the pocket pattern, this is probably my most-used! And wrapping paper is surprisingly durable!
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  74. ☝️☝️
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  75. YOU are nothing short of magic! Thank you for improving this project a hundredfold with your musical brilliance; it was an honor to Nerd with you!
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  76. 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
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  77. I accept this 😂👌
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  78. I'm so lucky to have had your help! ✨
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  79. dies plots world domination 😶
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  80. I hope you had a pleasant first day 😌
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  81. THANK YOU FOR ENABLING THIS TOMFOOLERY 😂
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  82. I… same. 👀
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  83. Anon! 😏
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  84. Here's a cheeky little free version of the server if you want to jump in and chat all things sewing and costumes: https://discord.gg/bernadette-banner
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  85. Also--if you clicked this video within the first c. 2 minutes of upload, perhaps give the page a refresh, hopefully they should be gone.
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  86. Sonic *seam ripper*, thank you. Some of us can afford the upgrade… 😉
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  87. Yes! I think the important thing to do now is to train our brains to view any digital image/video through a lens of unreality, in the same way our brains do that already with paint or tintype photography, &c. One thing I didn’t discuss in this video is the wild distortion that occurs in focal length of lenses: the shape of a person’s face can look entirely different from closeup/zoomed out vs far away/zoomed in. So even if filtering isn’t used, lens tricks that subtly change the shape of the face are present in every single photo and video ever. 😶
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  88. Yep--there's a whole facet of this story I didn't have time to go into for this feature, but there's still so much to be explored in workers/worker treatment area. I found a statistic which I couldn't quite work into the video--but 77% of the flower workers they surveyed in the 1913 report were women under the age of 25, and 14% of those were under the age of 16; fortunately by the time the 1913 report was written, there were the beginnings of stricter labor laws and worker's unions forming in NYC, so there were strict laws against overworking underaged employees (and the survey seemed to find that factories were adhering to this); but child workers seemed to populate a substantial percentage of the flower trade earlier in the 19th century, particularly in London. Anyway, this is a massive subject and the more research I did, the more mindblown I was about just how big of a story artificial flower making was!
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  89. Yes!! There was almost one between Sansa and Catelyn--there is a damask gown that seems to have the same figuring, only Sansa is seen in hers before Catelyn, and Catelyn's (which she wears only in the Tully funeral scene) is a few shades darker. So hand-me-down fabric perhaps, but I was gutted that they didn't go the full hand-me-down garment route!
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  90. You and Rupert are always a delight! 😁✨
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  91. 😭♥️
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  92. For those of you still doubting that True's corset bones would have stopped that horizontal knife slash, Jill Bearup has done Science on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ0iqiObucg
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  93. Ooh yes definitely! I couldn't for the life of me decide on a Series Title™ but this serves the purpose ideally. 😁✨
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  94. Thanks to Milanote for sponsoring this video! Sign up for free and start your next creative project: https://milanote.com/bernadettebanner0225
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  96. O H I didn't even make that connection. What a smart pig. 😂
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  97. Yessssssss 👀
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  98. I feel this on a deeply personal level. 😅
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  99. The Corset Queen has arrived! ♥️✨
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  100. Making a dress out of toilet paper was infinitely easier than attempting that eyeliner.
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  101. Not at all! The spines were cut so slim that the needle either went through--or they were thin and flexible enough that they didn't get in the way of the needle.
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  103. Get the exclusive NordVPN deal here: https://nordvpn.com/bernadette. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee! In other news, how did we do? Did we miss any? Which were your favorites this year?
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  105. Not to worry, the leather one is still there in some of the shots! I probably should have Explained as I had a number of distressed comments in the last video too. I use them interchangeably, only had cleaned up a bunch of stray sewing supplies and the metal one was just there on the shelf, so I picked it up and started using that one out of pure convenience!
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  106. Yes. 😎 It was a prop for a video I did with Noelle! Coming soon! ;)
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  107. One day I shall have to make a sequel when I’ve watched it!
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  108. yis 🙂
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  109. Long 👏 live 👏 the 👏 ruff 😤
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  110. Oh yes can you tell I'm dying internally when the phone starts ringing at an important moment in the conversation 😂
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  111. Get the exclusive NordVPN deal here: https://nordvpn.com/bernadette. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee!
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  112. They can give their shirts to all the English girlies suffering from third degree corset chafing 🫠
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  113. No you 😭♥️♥️
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  114. 🙃
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  115. I mean...you don't need a sewing machine... 😏
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  116. Get the exclusive NordVPN deal here: https://nordvpn.com/bernadette. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee!
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  117. I am not remotely surprised--there's no way lace that true to period could not have been hand-made, but it's mind-boggling to think that they actually did!
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  118. But this is precisely the kind of practical, nuanced real-world information that makes for good costume design! ;D
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  119. 🔎👒 Download June's Journey for free here: https://woo.ga/v95d0i
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  120. No it is just a play on words but please do not eat soap tablets. 🙂
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  121. Discover your new favourite game and download Midas Merge now using my link here: https://midasmerge.sng.link/Djplk/r7ep/ebev Thanks to Midas Merge for sponsoring this video!
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  122. 😅🤭
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  123. I have just learnt how to use Apple Pay!!! Very useful.
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  124. That is definitely the plan. 😅
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  125. I too am definitely more of a dark-colors-only person in my usual wardrobe, but I must say, this is a highly intriguing exception! 👀
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  126. I would like to extend a formal welcome to the Brown Ajah. Make yourself comfy; have a nice hot cup of spreadsheets. 😂
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  127. O fancy seeing you here 😏
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  128. I realized whilst writing the script that I never figured out their names and just decided to roll with it 😬
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  129. I think I need a bit more practice in my BBC Documentary Skills before that happens, but thanks!! I had loads of fun experimenting with this style. :)
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  130. 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/tih058pq
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  131. 😂😂😶 Sometimes she squeaks tho
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  132. You are too kind; it has definitely been bad in the past. 😅
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  133. this is a hill I will die on
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  134. Thank you 🤩
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  135. 🌏 Get Exclusive NordVPN deal here ➼ https://nordvpn.com/bernadette It’s risk-free with Nord’s 30-day money-back guarantee! ✌
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  136. VALID
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  137. It is very Betsy, my assistant who is behind the wonderfully creative captioning! ;D
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  138. Thank you! Same frame rate, but I've been working with an editor on some of my recent talky videos, so it's perhaps just benefitted from a new pair of eyes during the production process. 😁
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  139. Purely for seam finishing convenience! This way three of the layers (dress fabric and lining + sleeve fabric) can be trimmed away and the sleeve lining layer can be folded over and felled down with minimal bulk; I wouldn't be able to make as flat a seam if the dress and sleeve layers were connected, and this underarm seam does need to be as clean as possible.
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  140. 😏👉👉
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  141. I am beaming 😍
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  142. lol yep
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  143. I’m still thinking about those roasted grapes tbh 👀
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  144. 😂😂 I wish!
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  145. 🔎👒 Download June's Journey for free here: https://woo.ga/ylxruy
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  146. Welcome to my every work day 💀💀
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  147. Ah yes, the nuanced language of Keyboardsmash™.
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  148. 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/hr91jh5i
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  149. Thanks to Milanote for sponsoring this video! Sign up for free and start your next creative project: https://milanote.com/bernadettebanner
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  150. Get an exclusive 15% discount on Saily eSIM data plans! Download Saily app and use code BERNADETTE at checkout
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  151. Heheheheh
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  152. 🤣🤣🤣 0/10, did not meet expectations
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  153. 10/10 I need this film to exist 👀
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  154. It’s her channel, we’re just living in it ✨
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  155. yes. 😎
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  156. 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/cblpoe4d And purchase the June’s Journey interactive diary here: https://woo.ga/JJDiary_BernadetteBanner
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  157. I may or may not have had a very similar experience. 👀
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  158. I'm so glad that this project brought us together! It was such a delight to get to see your amazing work in person. Nerd Ajah unite! 🤎
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  159. OOOOH that sounds like such a good idea!
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  160. This is admittedly one that perplexed me. I believe the only other characters we see dressed regularly in head coverings are the septas, but Lady Olenna certainly isn't the religiously devout type. Very Old Court Dress does provide a reasonable explanation!
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  161. 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/aupdti
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  162. THE GREATEST HONOR 😭
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  163. Ah yes exposing for ghost hands and black fabric is a special sort of torture; if I ever decide to make a tutorial, I shall not be using black! 😅
    144
  164. I love that cloak-thing SO MUCH and it's SO CONFUSING 😅 Good luck to you!
    144
  165. This is basically already half of my and @abby cox's conversations these days. 🙃
    142
  166. Work Projects Administration, historical records survey. :)
    141
  167. 😅😅
    141
  168. I still have half the bottle left, now with the added flavour of marinated cork. 🙃
    141
  169. This was filmed whilst I was in London--Cathy, Barbara and I were shooting a little thing for the upcoming Foundations Revealed enrolment period, as Barbara is one of the mentors! No, she doesn't do all of her stitching by hand--but there is a lot of hand work required in traditional tailoring, and as she is a couture tailor, a lot of her precision work is done by hand.:)
    139
  170. YES YES please 👀👀
    137
  171. 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/32g6wmon
    135
  172. I mean... 😏
    135
  173. They're done by an outside captioning service, then reviewed to correct technical vocabulary by my fabulous assistant, Betsy. She also has much fun with the noise descriptions. :D
    135
  174. Oh wow that is excellent to hear! 😅
    133
  175. Let me tell you, when I then found that quote about NYC flower makers struggling to compete with the French, I nearly died at my unbeknownst impertinence--but it made for nice comedy 😅
    131
  176. I have very special word that they're coming back for preorder at the end of this month! Along with some new very special things. ;) ;) ;)
    131
  177. My condolences 😔
    128
  178. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
    127
  179. yes, cape.
    125
  180. I do think though that just shaping the bones would do wonders to the comfort of even a mass manufacture corset; it would require a bit of surgery, but removing one edge of the binding, bending the bones to fit the curves of your body and then reinserting them would help with the tubularness! It wouldn't be perfect as there are still constructional differences (grain, material, &c) but it would be a massive start I think!
    124
  181. Seconding Abby's 'I Wore 18th Century Dress' video! She mentions the petticoats/shift thing. :)
    122
  182. The Queen of Hair Experiments herself! 😭♥️✨
    119
  183. 🌏 Get Exclusive NordVPN deal here ➼ https://nordvpn.com/bernadette It’s risk-free with Nord’s 30-day money-back guarantee! ✌
    117
  184. BUSINESS CASUAL WIZARD 😭🙌🏻✨
    116
  185. Why we ever stopped decorating everyday objects purely for the sake of it, I will never understand. 😭
    115
  186. How about 'growing *into*' your true style instead? ;)
    114
  187. That sounds like a FANTASTIC idea! Do it!! :)
    111
  188. You can use my code BB1 for 1,000 free coins in Home Design Makeover: https://hdm.onelink.me/Eg2n/BB1 Thanks to Home Design Makeover for sponsoring!
    111
  189. Yes as very briefly seen (although not explained), the potions were set out an open window for the particularly chemically bits. 🙂
    108
  190. Yours are much more creative, I’m taking notes 😅
    108
  191. tbh I'm pretty sure that was just a deliberate ploy to distract viewers from the subsequent abomination of whatever the heck that red dress was supposed to be 🤭
    106
  192. This is why I wanted to point that out--there are so many ways her character can be interpreted as we have so little evidence remaining of what the real Avis Crocombe was like!
    102
  193. we stan Our Lady Hildegard von Blingin
    100
  194. I mean, an Attempt was made 😅😅
    100
  195. I mean... 😬 (Mainly I tell people not to send me things because I know there's only so much stuff I can accommodate, and the potential amount of things that I would accumulate over time stresses me out. Things that can be used up or that actively enrich this channel, ie primary source material that I can share with everyone, is not the worst; but yes, if you can be dissuaded from sending things, I would be at greater ease. 😌)
    97
  196. I accept this headcanon 😁
    97
  197. That’s a good question! I’ve had them about a month now so at least that, I am happy to report.
    94
  198. Oh my goodness, I'm sorry about that! You're right, I think that is Old Testament which is followed by both? I ought not to have specified 'Christian' then! I never expected my dress history to take me back that far 😅
    92
  199. You may want to talk to @globöb Oboglöb here in the comments, they seem to be on the case of reverse engineering it!
    92
  200. ‘Sewing Bro’ is a concept I never knew I needed until now. 🤣
    87
  201. Good thing I didn't read them !
    87
  202. I agree with this wholeheartedly. And a lack of books says something too!
    86
  203. Alas he was still cross about having to wear costumes the previous week so we didn't even dare to try 😅
    83
  204. Yep, enamel! Possibly the most useful gift I have ever received. :)
    83
  205. Thank you! Not to worry, it is a secondhand tube that I've reused for paper storage. :)
    83
  206. Use code BERNADETTEBANNER at the link below to get an exclusive 60% off an annual Incogni plan: https://incogni.com/bernadettebanner
    83
  207. I love them the most too! I just wish they didn’t take so long to make, or I’d put them out more regularly 😭
    82
  208. I don't do the captions myself but I can certainly look into the feasibility of this!
    81
  209. It wasn’t noticeable as the fabric is very lightweight, but I expect a heavy wool or cotton canvas, for example, might feel a little odd.
    79
  210. It's coming to Sky on the 17th May (but also, like, VPNs ;D)
    79
  211. There is t o p s t i t c h i n g on that menswear. Enjoy 🤩
    78
  212. That is such a magical thought process. ✨
    76
  213. 😅😅♥️
    76
  214. 😦😦😦 noO
    76
  215. 👒🔍The Truth is your Destination in June's Journey. Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/c85p25us 🔥And a handy little reference sheet for burn testing results: https://www.patreon.com/posts/123845098?pr=true
    75
  216. Never resist the urge to frolic. 😏
    75
  217. It was a warehouse clearance thing from one of our local garment district shops, so I got the whole bolt for something like $5 a few years ago and haven't figured out how to use it (until now)! 😅
    75
  218. You can do it!! It can be done, it just requires a lot more babysitting than other fabrics. 😅
    73
  219. Sometimes--as we can see--the pain is well justified; especially as historic Empress Elisabeth was big into tightlacing, which I don't expect would be comfy for most actresses today. But that's all the more reason to promote understanding of how corsets should be built, fit and worn!
    73
  220. Washing tarlatan isn't advisable as the sizing will dissolve and it won't be stiff anymore. If you want a skirt which can be thrown in the wash, I'd recommend lining with a heavy linen or cotton, which will still give it stiffness (although will also make the skirt much heavier). You can protect the hem with that wool hem braid and add an additional facing layer on the inside to protect the tarlatan layer if the inside will be touching the ground as well as the hem; that way this can be ripped out and replaced when it becomes too worn or dirty. Otherwise, I just embrace the dust. It can be shaken out and brushed clean enough, but I do have to be careful not to wear my trained skirts in the rain (or else pick up the hem when walking), and to avoid sticky things on the ground. When I get home, I change into a house skirt so that I'm not wearing the dusty train around the house. Black wool hides a lot of sins. :)
    71
  221. Grab the NordVPN deal ➼ https://nordvpn.com/bernadette. Every purchase of a 2-year NordVPN plan will receive +4 bonus months, plus up to 20 GB Saily data voucher. Try it risk-free now with a 30-day money-back guarantee.
    71
  222. Thank you! It is fixed! 😁
    71
  223. ♥️♥️♥️
    70
  224. This cord specifically had to be cronched slightly to flatten it since it was too thick to go through the needle otherwise!
    70
  225. Oh now THAT would be a fascinating experiment! :o
    70
  226. I may or may not have been unreasonably proud of that one.
    69
  227. 😅❤
    69
  228. yis 😎
    69
  229. Yess count on velvet to hide all your flaws with its superoverexposure powers 😆
    68
  230. Me and my hatred for closures are not looking forward to that bit. 😆
    68
  231. Mechanical pencils always stay sharp! 😎
    66
  232. I don't have any evidence to prove so--certainly in boutonnières and on ladies' hairstyles, but I'm not so sure about on the gown itself. These were basically pinned and precariously balanced since I wasn't sure how to stitch through flowers without ripping them, so I'm not sure they would have held up for a full evening. 😅
    65
  233. DJI Mavic Mini :) It does float around a bit but thankfully not too much as there isn't any wind to fight inside.
    64
  234. ♥️♥️♥️ Good luck! Let me know if you need a rec letter. 😁
    61
  235. 39th street is your best friend!
    59
  236. I'd bet that a Keystone version of this coat would be far nicer than the commercial pattern version (and it's free)!
    56
  237. ;))
    55
  238. I was genuinely shocked to find that ren faires weren't a thing in the UK. I expected they would be huge there, what with people actually knowing Tudor history! 😅
    54
  239. 😅 that would involve me actually having seen said films, which is generally not a frequent occurrence!
    54
  240. I did read the prologue book after episode 4 when I decided I needed to know more about the Aes Sedai; but to be honest I’m enjoying the show so much, I’d rather let this be my first experience of the story and not ‘spoil’ myself in advance!
    54
  241. Possibly! I didn't attempt to slide them in after stitching the channels as I imagined that wouldn't be possible with how rough the bones were, but my method might not have actually been any faster. It is a mystery to me!
    53
  242. Thank you!! I had so much fun exploring this style! ♥️
    52
  243. 🤣😂👏
    52
  244. still... 👀
    52
  245. Alas YouTube doesn't allow me to add text but rest assured, Dani has very much already brought this point to my attention 😅😵
    52
  246. My no. 1 priority in mascara is specifically that it can be removed with warm water; that way it doesn’t melt at the slightest moisture, but it also doesn’t require makeup remover to get off. The less time I need to spend taking off makeup at the end of the day, the better! 😅
    51
  247. This is one of the things I am most grateful for. ♥️♥️
    51
  248. Click my trainwell (formerly CoPilot) link https://go.trainwell.net/BernadetteBanner-cp to get 14 days FREE with your own expert personal trainer!
    51
  249. So many things! I give some examples and link to references in my video discussing the history of pockets (tldw: snacks, books, rocks, treasures, chickens), but if you have a bit of time to spare, do have a look at the Old Bailey records (https://www.oldbaileyonline.org/) and search 'pocket' for all sorts of fun insight into the myriad ways that people used pockets in criminal tomfoolery.
    49
  250. I KNOW I saw that and suddenly the whole world made sense 😱😱
    49
  251. Tbh I’ll probably be doing the same thing to the coat I have now in a few years (when, heh) I am a flash tailoring expert! The important thing is to take pride in the good parts of your work (even if it’s as simple as ‘I put many pieces into a single piece!!) just to keep yourself encouraged, but also to know where you can improve so you can continue learning and getting better! ♥️
    49
  252. 😏😏
    48
  253. Only one way to find out 👀👀
    48
  254. 🤣🤣🤣 😬
    47
  255. The true star of the show
    45
  256. Yes. You do you, and nothing else matters. 🎉
    45
  257. seeeeee but if I hadn't, I'd have 10000000 horrified comments at the reality of modern-non-shaving. You just can't win. 😅
    44
  258. I hadn't planned to as the paintings have been digitally imposed on the covers and the paintings themselves look a bit unfinished. 😅
    42
  259. It's mostly to mark the spacing but yes, does prevent cutting too far!
    42
  260. Yes! There are Lots of Plans in the works. 😎
    41
  261. Excellent. 😎
    41
  262. I believe it is an original foot--it came with a set of others in an antique Singer puzze box!
    40
  263. Christine!!!! You beautiful, wonderful, magical, unstoppable human! Everyone should go follow her channel @sewstine to see how she makes all these stunning gowns.
    40
  264. 👒🔍Download June's Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/hqaol53v
    39
  265. Aww never an idiot! Insertion lace isn’t exactly life or death knowledge 😅😅
    38
  266. Mudlarking is most definitely on the bucket list! 😁
    37
  267. Yes the starch does seem to do most of the work in preventing fraying, which I imagine is part of the reason it's done. :)
    36
  268. I mean, in the grand scheme of the universe, I'm not sure there is any such thing as permanence. 😅
    36
  269. Come to the dark academia side. We have pockets big enough to hold all the cookies.
    36
  270. I hadn't and have already found something promising but will investigate!
    36
  271. Anachronism is arguably more difficult to do as well—because the designer has to invent (and stick to) their own rules, habits and developments of fashion within that world for it to make sense to the audience, instead of just following the rules and patterns prearranged by history!
    36
  272. Heck yea, live that glorious shimmer life! ✨
    35
  273. heheheheh
    34
  274. Oh, fighting the urge to google during this chat was *difficult*! Too bad Magical Pocket Encyclopaedias aren't allowed in the 19th century.
    34
  275. I've just put it off for now, I think. I do have a full year to make the return, so I'll have a think about it when I'm back from London next year. Right now the second surface is living up against a wall in my bedroom, so it's not immediately in the way whilst I'm working. 😅
    33
  276. Oh goodness I hope so!!
    33
  277. (I was waiting for like 2 people to get the reference 😆)
    33
  278. Possible!
    32
  279. 😦😦...🤯
    32
  280. Oh you know, just casually muting an entire audio track to proof one thing before export and forgetting to unmute it, twice. 🥲
    31
  281. That's the spirit! Also Poshmark is great for reselling--I should have mentioned that too! 😅
    31
  282. 🙃🙃🙃
    31
  283. Fashion comes in all shapes and sizes! 😎
    30
  284. 😭
    30
  285. Buttonholes are hard, even for experienced seamsters! But I believe in you. :)
    29
  286. That stupid outlet was the only thing I could look at whilst editing the bum pad video so Something Had To Be Done. 😅
    28
  287. Yesss!! That's still one of my most favorite projects I've done; all the hand-sewn lace, it was so relaxing and gorgeous to look at, even if it took a while. Good luck with yours!! x
    28
  288. SAME THOUGH #giveusElizabethans @american duchess 😏😏😏😏
    28
  289. what is life without a bit of wholly unasked-for ~*s Y m bö L i s M*~
    28
  290. Idk, Cesario's a chonky boy even with his vegan/gluten free/raw veg routine, so he may not be the best for diet inspo. 😅
    27
  291. ♥️♥️♥️
    27
  292. This pattern is a little on the complex side, so it'll take some particular vigilance from a beginner--but in my opinion there's no better way to learn than to just throw yourself into the most exciting of deep ends! :D
    27
  293. I did say I was bringing only the bare essentials 😅😅
    27
  294. This was very useful, thank you! I'll look into the pitman arm a bit more--I'd actually feel a bit better replacing it if it's already been given non-contemporary repair. And yes, the innards are going to get a much better clean-out; my machine oil was still in transit from New York so sadly I didn't get to include that in the video!
    27
  295. I think that's absolutely a sound theory! There were all sorts of strange industrial contraptions for achieving any little particular step in corset manufacturing.
    27
  296. Design teams and wardrobe are part of IATSE, but the costume shops are independent businesses that aren't unionised. 😅
    26
  297. The Lady Detalle! She's known for her iconic grape jewellry. :)
    25
  298. 😂 it's ok, I'm using both interchangeably!
    24
  299. I have indeed been quite literally all over the place. 🙂
    24
  300. Oh no! There are already a number of entries so it seems to have worked for some people; try this one? https://gleam.io/competitions/3Nqfw-burnley-trowbridge-hamilton-spencer-kit-giveaway
    24
  301. hah yes I thank my landlord for not wanting to get rid of it before I moved in. 🙃
    23
  302. Yes, I am very much enjoying every one of the (copious) minutes this is taking!
    23
  303. 🥲 The wheel weaves as the wheel wills
    23
  304. I do wear the walking skirt often and the chemise a la reine around the house because it's comfy, but haven't worn the 18th c dress much because there hasn't been so much Going Outside in Warm Weather lately! 😅
    22
  305. 😭 why thank you, fair human ✨
    22
  306. That is a good question! I've definitely seen them in medieval manuscripts, worn hung from a belt between the underdress and overdress, but that's as far back as my general dress history knowledge goes!
    22
  307. I've actually had a number of lovely local folks offer--and who in my frantic state of overwhelmed correspondence have not yet replied to; but I think it's something to be dealt with when I return to NY in the next year. :)
    22
  308. I haven't had that problem, personally, and I've lived in very rainy places! I do deliberately wear shorter (ankle or above) length skirts when it's particularly wet, but otherwise the petticoats and thick stockings keep my legs nice and dry. :) Sadly no, I have yet to adopt the Indoor Sweater life.
    22
  309. Neither did I--definitely going to help for future pad stitching endeavors!
    22
  310. Oh yes he still got lettuce treats, not to worry 🙂
    21
  311. 😅😅😅💀
    21
  312. You can get a foundational assessment at least of some basics (how much reduction you might be able to achieve and how comfortable you are in tight garments) just through your day-to-day clothing experience! Do tight waistbands bother you? Are you able to wear fashion belts at your waist and pull them in tightly? If you're not so keen on tightness at the middle, have a firmer core or have a waist measurement larger than your bust or hip measurement, you may be more comfortable in a corset designed less for reduction and more for support. :)
    21
  313. The Shears of Destiny? They're just from amazon 😅
    20
  314. Danny did an absolutely showstopping job with this edit especially!! An incredible amount of work.
    20
  315. It would be held together with a cravat, the collar standing straight up against the neck. :)
    20
  316. Neither had I, but I'm so glad to have had the chance to look into the history of it!
    20
  317. I'm curious about this too! I would be genuinely shocked though if a leading actress's corset wasn't custom made, so I'd wager that any discomfort complaints are either down to the costume makers not understanding corset construction (which would be shocking in a workroom that specialises in period costume, as some do), the actress just not being accustomed to the feel of tight fitting garments, or that the character requires a fashionable tight-laced silhouette in a sense that, while the character would be willing to put up with discomfort, the actress isn't. 😅
    20
  318. Oh I have definitely not properly formatted those footnotes but I appreciate the appreciation! 😁
    20
  319. Aw, yes they're usually set to demonetised for patreon preview but will have ads when it goes live today!
    20
  320. Alas the ball has been postponed to next May, but this is probably for the best; New York at least seems to be in this for the long haul!
    19
  321. Captions have not yet been proofed by my team so these will be fixed soon. :)
    19
  322. This is why we also wear 493872848 layers of underthings! 😎
    18
  323. Oh sorry I'm not sure--it's a free sample 😅😅
    18
  324. Just some extra finger protection; any and all abrasion spots make themselves very known after a few hours of hand stitching!
    18
  325. Mia is an absolute delight and was a lifesaver on this project!
    18
  326. 😂😂
    18
  327. Me too, honestly 😅
    18
  328. Oh excellent, I was wondering about that! Merry sewing adventures to you both!
    18
  329. go watch the thing ♥️
    17
  330. Oh my goodness PLEASE DO 😍😍
    17
  331. Cite me some sources to support this argument. I want page numbers and direct quotations from primary sources, as I have given towards the very counter argument presented in this video.
    17
  332. The only way to really say for sure would be to see her in person, unstructured! I don't doubt that she used some structural enhancements in her clothing and had her photos altered, especially if retouching was as common as I've found it to be in general photography. However for all my talk of 'tiny waists weren't normal', there were still a select few, particularly high-fashion individuals, who chose to tight lace to an extreme--just as there are people who choose to "waist train" today. Queen Maud was probably one of them. So while she may have used additional help in the form of padding and retouching to achieve an extreme that lives on to us today, I do genuinely think that her waist IRL was smaller than average. She didn't need to work a job and she had plenty of people in her service, so the impracticalities of tight lacing would not have had so great an impact on her everyday life so long as she was willing to put up with the bit of discomfort. :)
    17
  333. Yes! And I agree! Although bluebells might be matched with snow drops on my list of Most Magical Foliage!
    15
  334. Oh I still have SO much to learn with this style, but I'm having a fantastic time with it! :D
    15
  335. The only sort of influence I wish to exert. 😎
    15
  336. I 🎉 do🎉 this 🎉 on 🎉 purpose🎉 because if I were to just say 'the old' verbally without flashing the corresponding text on screen, the joke is completely lost 🎉 (and 'þe' was Old English first, pronounced 'theh' (hard th) rather than 'the' or 'thee' (soft th), so shall I just pronounce it 'theh eald' for Full Authenticity? Why does no one get equally salty about the mispronunciation of 'eald'? Or does pointing out the supersecret existence of thorn earn one extra special nerdpoints?) Allow me to also point out that the addition of the 'e' at the end of words is indicative of the accusative case in Old English, and the article 'þe' is strictly nominative; therefore the grammatically correct form of the phrase would be 'þe old', or 'þe eald', rendering the whole matter of spelling and pronunciation in 'ye olde' deliberately inauthentic, and thus, a joke. I do believe in thoroughly knowing one's source material before bastardising it for humor.
    15
  337. I feel called out 🤣
    15
  338. Ahahah one day! 😁♥️
    15
  339. Yes that one definitely caught me off guard during my research for this!
    15
  340. Hey Tesco trips are like the only reason to go outside nowadays; definite excuse to dress up for the occasion. 😎
    15
  341. Oh wow that's so interesting! Wool is SUPER cheap there, as is linen and cotton, but silk is extremely expensive! It's amazing how fabric prices differ from place to place (although also kind of not really at all).
    14
  342. SAME 😂 my first though when searching for some upbeat electroswing was, 'well, I've basically just found the Rachel Maksy section'
    14
  343. Oh thank you- I ought to add that to the materials list. It's a lightweight cotton tape, 1/2".
    14
  344. All my skirts close with safety pins. 😁
    14
  345. Not to worry, I am not repurposing the bow; that will definitely become decoration. 😁
    14
  346. ♥️♥️♥️ thank youuuu ✨
    13
  347. I'll need to do some further first-hand experimentation to truly get a sense of the differences, but I can already tell that the lockstitch machines make much flatter stitches, much less bulky than the chainstitch. It's possible that the lockstitch might also be stronger, as it's two threads instead of one, but the chainstitch to me already felt remarkably strong and the machine much more simple to use. The jury is still out on this one!
    13
  348. I... just realised how odd this seems today 🤣
    13
  349. Ohhhh that 1890s sweater was the thing that almost broke me. But then I remembered that Prior Attire periodically offers them and now I may have to save up for one. 😏 swoooon https://www.priorattire.co.uk/ourshop/prod_7276804-Late-Victorian-sport-sweater-used.html?fbclid=IwAR09npqPOK4O2mox3jpI8p6tZb9Z0nXBSvnQKpfLvH-Wwgyo_Ptxkd9ix0w
    12
  350. That's exactly what I was wondering too; I suppose one doesn't typically wear one's floofy white dress in the mud! 😅
    12
  351. I was definitely channelling the Morgan Donner vibes. 😎
    12
  352. To be fair, it is an obscure one; I only found out about it through some folks who did some work on it!
    12
  353. Yes! We saw instances of feather bone usage in regular 1890-1910 corsets at the Symington study day last year (I made a video on this back in October-ish)!
    12
  354. Absolutely, and the Symington company is an excellent example of that! The less pretty corsets don't often survive because they were worn to death by people who can't afford to buy a new corset every season (and for every purpose)--and who today feels the need to preserve their grotty old underwear? It's not exactly the most appealing thing to want to leave behind. 😆
    11
  355. No worries! I realize not every topic and video style is for everyone. :) I do try to balance between the 'mass appeal' content and the super nerdy dress history stuff in an effort to welcome/engage/expose new people to the field in a relatable and accessible way who might previously have had no awareness of it. Some of it will come off as a bit more rudimentary to the more seasoned dress historians/nerds out there. ;)
    11
  356. The paper demonstration is all I've got in terms of explanation--but it took me a whole morning just to wrap my brain around it, so I don't blame you for being confused; it's the sort of garment you have to have in your hands to completely understand; as demonstrated in the paper folding bit, the swing panel doesn't sit across the front of the legs, otherwise, yes, there would be an unnatural fold on one side of the trousers; instead it's stitched to the "back" side of one CF trouser piece. The fabric is lightweight enough that the weight is negligible from one side to the other.
    11
  357. There is definitely no One True Way to assemble a pocket, but hurrah for pockets!
    11
  358. Yes that is definitely a point!
    11
  359. Oh my...I'm so sorry 😅
    11
  360. Oh that might definitely be a technique worth trying!
    11
  361. OHH! Hahah yes, that I will accept. 😁
    11
  362. Two lines of gathering does indeed make the gathering stronger and more controlled so is preferable in most circumstances, but in this case would push the project beyond a single day--and it can also still be achieved with just one row. And yes, cauldron mug. :)
    11
  363. I haven't decided what I'm going to do about those yet 😅
    11
  364. Here, you can borrow mine.
    10
  365. boost 🙂
    10
  366. There are very few problems that fresh baguettes can't solve. 😎
    10
  367. Oooh accidental but serendipitous!
    9
  368. For the next time I need a bottle of wine for my Victorian hair dye. 🤣
    9
  369. Cathy definitely has a pile of dumb prop letters from me piling up in her house. 🙃
    9
  370. I just want 75 hours in the day so that I can manufacture sewing videos on a weekly basis!
    9
  371. 🤣🤣🤣
    9
  372. Sorry--I should add that to the description! It's a silk buttonhole twist. :)
    9
  373. A whole 4 hours 😂
    8
  374. 😭❤
    8
  375. Oh I was trying not to be pointlessly critical!
    8
  376. Fabric is definitely a whole other can of worms. I've personally been enjoying the 'buy less of better/natural quality' lately; the higher price means that you're less inclined to overbuy yardage and get more creative with piecing, which is completely historically accurate and much more conservative with usage! Thrift/secondhand shops are also great for fabric though in the form of curtains/tablecloths/sheets/quilts, &c. for a more affordable option. If you're in a big city with a garment district, Noelle (Costuming Drama) was recently talking with a small-scale clothing manufacturer who said that these independent shops often stock and resell the excess yardage overstock from fashion houses, so while the initial ethics of that large-scale production are questionable, it does make me feel slightly better for buying excess material that already exists in the world. re: cabbage, I save everything--down to the tiniest scraps and loose thread clippings! Larger pieces can be used for patches, small projects, quilting, gift wrapping, &c. and the small slivers/threads are great for shredding and using as stuffing; great for pillows, padding/skirt structure--I think Cesario needs a good napping pillow. ;)
    8
  377. ♥️♥️ All the destressing powers to you!
    7
  378. Oooh that will be an awesome experiment! 😯
    7
  379. It is true, I know utterly nothing of fashion purely because I prefer my toilet paper ribbons to look like toilet paper.
    7
  380. AAAH I didn't know you were here!! xxx
    7
  381. YES PLEASE 😍
    7
  382. You can do the thing! ♥️
    7
  383. It is indeed!
    7
  384. Yes, pressing the seam and absorbing the heat of the iron to set it more firmly. :)
    7
  385. The amount of yardage depends on what level of decoration you prefer (and I suppose what specific year you're going after). The later lingerie dresses are much slimmer and not nearly as fabric-intensive, with straighter skirts, smoother bodices and slimmer sleeves, while the late 90s - 1903-ish are SUPER FLUFFY. BIG SLEEVES. POOF BODICE. Mine is a bit in the middle, and could have done with 12 yards to make it as fluffy as I'd want it, and this is with the design of full-ish sleeves, a flared and modertely-gathered-in-the-back skirt with bottom ruffle, and lots of pintuck work on the bodice but not as pigeon-poofed as earlier gowns. I'm sorry that isn't a straightforward answer, but hopefully it helps! I'd recommend buying from a source that you know you can go back to, just in case. ;) My cotton was not cream-toned but ever so slightly off-white; not stark-white but not exactly ivory either. I wanted it to look new, as if it's just been made in the 19th century, but not so stark that it doesn't look *right*, hahah.
    7
  386. Thank you for coming!
    7
  387. Alas I didn't measure; I'd bought around 10 yard bolts of a few different styles and widths to play with--some of them I used up and some I still have lots left. As I say in the video, each of these dresses is entirely unique in style so you can use as much or as little lace as you like!
    7
  388. Ah yes, very important.
    6
  389. Modern sewing machines intimidate me too! 😅
    6
  390. His Lordship was barricaded in the kitchen area for a reason during filming this, and has since outright declined all offers of tasty consolatory empty roll offerings in protest.
    6
  391. Loose linen or cotton might work for warmer climates!
    6
  392. It's a wooden clapper--it helps to absorb the heat of the iron more quickly, setting the seam a bit flatter. :)
    6
  393. It is indeed! ;)
    6
  394. You're right, and that was poor wording on my part. As this video is focussing on corsetry primarily (as construction and shape start to differ in the realm of bodies and stays that complicate the comparison to modern corsetry), we're talking about the Victorian period in this video. And while, yes, there is no such thing as an 'always' in history--that we can't fairly claim all clothing was tight-fitting--the vast majority of photographs, extant garments, and portraits show garments that are fit snugly throughout pretty much the entire Victorian period, with examples spanning a range of classes. That's not to say that there weren't people then who detested tight fitting clothing, were in the habit of wearing older, looser styles, or lived in areas with regionally specific dress that wasn't tight-fitting in the manner of the general (English) stylistic trend of the time, but I think it is reasonable to assume that a vastly higher percentage of the population had regular daily experience wearing tight-fitting clothing and would therefore have no unfamiliar discomfort with it in the way that the majority of the population today would have. But yes, this is also the Western (in my case, English) assessment; things were certainly different in other parts of the world, but alas, this is the particular region of dress I have studied in depth and am qualified to speak on with any nuance. I would love to hear the perspectives of those whose area of study encapsulates different geographical regions.
    6
  395. You can do the thing! 🎉
    6
  396. In theory they wouldn’t have been; that’s the point of wearing them over layers of sturdy washable cotton or linen undergarments, to protect the more precarious or expensive outer layers from needing washing. They could be spot cleaned or splashed with alcohol, of course—or I’m sure someone somewhere had one of these and decided to wash it with water, but it would have required a great deal of restarching and reshaping and may have compromised the shape of the featherbone. Not advisable. 😬
    6
  397. This is true. Most definitely a distinct lack of shop cats. 😭
    6
  398. Oooh I will definitely look into those options! I'm a bit hesitant to repair it in an irreversible/altering way since, having worked with poor extant garments that have had similar 'repair' done by someone who doesn't make historical garments, those 'repairs' are sometimes just tragic. My bit of kitchen towel will suffice harmlessly until I can work out the most authentic solution possible. :D
    6
  399. It's all just basted so will come out easily, and will then still be long enough to be reused as hand basting thread before ending up in the scrap thread mug and eventually being used as stuffing. :)
    5
  400. It’s an old clothing catalogue from 1909!
    5
  401. This is so important! Yes, these principles go well beyond sewing/clothing, and adopting more sustainable practices in any area of your life is huge progress! ♥️
    5
  402. I'm sorryyyy, he was in the video, at least? Perhaps I'll put together a conciliatory Cesario reel for you.
    5
  403. They don't backstitch! (At least the 19th c ones I have don't). I've not really had a problem with seams coming undone though; usually the bits I sew by machine are long seams which then get hand finished under a lining edge or something, so that vulnerable end isn't exposed; if it is (on something like top stitching), I've threaded the end through a needle and knotted it off by hand. :)
    5
  404. I did require a moment of self reflection upon realizing that every piece for this was pulled from my own wardrobe.
    5
  405. I made them up on Excel and printed on cardstock. :)
    5
  406. Most (if not all) of this vlog was shot on the G7X! Of the cameras I have, this one has the best in-camera audio which is great for when I don’t feel like mic-ing up for vlogging. The ZV1 has much better camera quality though, and can shoot in 4K (a bit) and 120fps for those delicious slow-mo shots (although it has very poor audio quality), so I’ll use that one if I need to go out and shoot (since it’s a nice portable size) or I’ll also use that as a secondary camera for sewing videos. The main camera I use now is the Sony a7siii which has The Best quality but is very large and expensive so I don’t like to take that one out on adventures.
    5
  407. My secret is ruined
    5
  408. One of the (many) differences between stays and corsets is that corsets come down over the top of the pelvis while stays stop at the waist (with only the skirts extending below, but the skirts don't hold the body in at all). A garment that tries to tubularize you by constricting from hip to bust is going to be a lot more comfortable than a (well, not tubular, but) conical shape from waist to bust. 😁
    5
  409. I'm not sure on the legality of this, but would you be allowed to disclose the names of these brands? I'm sure myself and other friends here looking to add sustainable pieces to their wardrobes would love to check them out! :)
    5
  410. Made! I'll have a vlog about it coming next month. :)
    5
  411. Bed Bath & Beyond--they have a lot of interesting lamps!
    5
  412. To be fair much of my clothing is modern-historical-ish, so not always quite so elaborately as in this video, but I don't own trousers or skirts above the knee so there is definitely always a historical essence!
    5
  413. NOT YET BUT THE SHOPS HAVENT REOPENED YET 😭
    5
  414. Oh yes this is a good alternative!
    5
  415. This is Lyra at your service
    5
  416. g o o d 😎
    5
  417. I will not divulge what I've spent my evenings this week doing. 👀
    5
  418. Oh wow I literally started watching it last night and thought 'oh maybe I should do the thing everyone keeps asking me to do' but I could hardly make it through the first episode. (The clothes are actually fine ~but that acting tho~ ) 😳😶
    5
  419. It's the antique one I bought in the flea market video last year, and I've finally just realised that I should be using it! 😆
    5
  420. I'm sorry, I had to remove it. It had a bit too much personal/lifestyle content for me to be comfortable in letting loose, especially after it was particularly abused.
    4
  421. Talk about disposable fashion 😂
    4
  422. Definitely going for that Scorsese style, but alas, I was not alive when it was first released.
    4
  423. They have only just come back from the transcriber but have yet to be finessed by the caption wizard. Accurate captions should be with you shortly.
    4
  424. One can only dream of becoming half as fabulous as our queen
    4
  425. Whaaaaaat now this is a rabbit hole I must investigate!
    4
  426. Vegetarian Reconstructs Iconic Gaga Meat Dress 🤣
    4
  427. Some modern machines don’t tolerate cotton thread well, but I’ve never had a problem with it on my antique machines. I use cotton and silk primarily, but polyester should also work just fine. I don’t recommend using linen with machines though as it’ll need to be waxed first.
    4
  428. I mean, would there be any harm in that? 🙃
    4
  429. Yes a number of people on the vlog segment suggested I paint the backs black, so I may do that in future!
    4
  430. If I am to infer that you are concerned with the ethics of horsehair use, allow me to reassure you that we're not talking about the body-hair of horses--only the tail fibers, which don't involve hurting or killing the horse to obtain. In fact historically there was a huge population of working horses requiring regular tail clipping, which was then put to use in the canvas and braids which were so prevalently used. We don't have as many working horses to source from these days--but we do now have synthetic horsehair fibers which mimic the springiness of organic horsehair almost exactly and which are used in most "horsehair" products you'll find in shops today.
    4
  431. Ah sorry! It's come back from the caption service but hasn't yet been fine-tuned by The Caption Wizard, so everything should be properly sorted for release tomorrow 😁
    4
  432. Oh I didn't know there was a specific metric, but I do know that YouTube flags content they sense suspicious activity on, so maybe not on loop all day but, like, for an hour or two. :D
    4
  433. With Monumental Effort. And muting the footage. 😬
    4
  434. There were slightly more deerstalkers involved 😂
    4
  435. 1) Strong natural lighting and high exposure; 2) the camera is placed very far away but zoomed in slightly to achieve a natural distance while eliminating some of the fine details; 3) my vlogging camera has a built-in skin smoothing feature. You don't even need filters or photoshop to affect your appearance; some things can be done with the camera lens itself. I maintain: nothing is real. 😁
    4
  436. Yes, because when I adopted him, he was labeled as a ‘she’ and I called ‘her’ Viola. So I had 0 choice in the matter. 😅
    4
  437. I'm wearing a petticoat under the black skirt at the end, as the shirt isn't quite long enough for full-length chemise purposes! However it does go down past the hips and is quite a lot of fabric, so I find it actually provides some nice hip floof for a subtly more impressive silhouette! 😅
    4
  438. 😂😂😵
    4
  439. Rest assured, as per the epilogue in this video, all toilet paper involved has still been put to its intended function. This is the first pack I've bought since NY went into lockdown, and the last I'll need to buy for the next c. two months.
    4
  440. Fittingly, history is all over the place. Skirts which are meant for more activity are cut a bit shorter while those requiring a bit more swoosh and elegance were made longer. It was up to the situation and personal comfort of the wearer.
    4
  441. I am never not astounded at how far these videos travel! 😭♥️
    4
  442. It is not the most uncomfortable dresses I've worn!
    4
  443. Yes, they were worn by fashionable men at the beginning of the 19th century with the intention of achieving a small-waisted/large-chested silhouette. :)
    4
  444. Thank you for bestowing upon us the gift of Old English rickrolling! It plays an integral role in my daily existence.
    4
  445. American Duchess, of course! All outfit info is listed in the description. :)
    4
  446. Wood, horn, shell, cloth, thread, metal, pearl, bone--the possibilities are endless!
    4
  447. Learn to use a thimble asap, your fingers will thank you in 3 years. 🙃
    4
  448. @Abby Cox needs to drop some merch ;) ;)
    4
  449. Alas, this is not an American insistence but a historical one. As soon as history starts using the metric system, then so will I--but until then, all historical sources of this period give instructions in feet and inches. Even my European colleagues switch to imperial for historical reconstruction.
    4
  450. I have, but it's a lot of work that I'd rather spend sewing other things, and I don't really want to have to look at me and my wonky likeness all day every day 😅😅
    4
  451. I think there are some plans in the works ;)
    4
  452. (you have my permission to skip, especially if they're over a minute long 😭)
    3
  453. Vintagebursche!
    3
  454. They're not yet back from the captioners but should be up by tomorrow latest! Sorry!! x
    3
  455. It's called "Miika's Journey" :)
    3
  456. Hahah--they seem to pop up faster than I can mend them! :)
    3
  457. Have you read the sources I've linked in the description regarding their sourcing/manufacturing? They explain this.
    3
  458. Sewstine was actually who referred me to this company!
    3
  459. 👀👀
    3
  460. Perhaps some day in future, but not until I can find a good pattern grader who can translate them into a series of standard sizes. I don't expect the patterns drafted for my particular deformities will be very useful to most people. :)
    3
  461. Yes of course 😎
    3
  462. If you haven't seen the first video in this series on comparing a Victorian corset to the medical brace I grew up in, that might offer some insight into this. I found in wearing the Victorian corset that I still had very ample range of movement with the flexibility of the bones, and, far from weakening my core muscles, that bit of resistance actually made my core work harder; my abdominal muscles were sore the following day from having to actually work against something to achieve the same movements. :) Tight lacing is an entirely different story though, and yes, if you'd been tightlacing in a more rigid and restrictive corset to achieve a fashionable silhouette for a substantial period of your life, there would definitely be some muscular weakening as a result, as I experienced significant abdominal weakness after years in a hard plastic (nonflexible) brace; however, even tight-laced Victorian corsets were not as rigid and unforgiving as the solid plastic brace, and that thing was prescribed by a very 21st century doctor for the express purpose of -- health!
    3
  463. OMG 😰😰
    3
  464. No disrespect to Jane Austen, I was merely stating my own acknowledgedly controversial opinion!
    3
  465. Indeed! "Gustav Adolphus [something] copy". Likely containing slides of images she took when she studied his clothes. :)
    3
  466. AND THEN HAS THE AUDACITY TO TRY AND MAKE SUCH A SUPREMELY ENGORGED PROFIT OFF OF AN EDUCATIONAL RESOURCE, NONE OF THE PROCEEDS FOR WHICH WILL GO TOWARDS THE CREATOR OF THE ORIGINAL WORK BECAUSE THEY'VE BEEN DEAD LONGER THAN MODERN ENGLISH HAS EXISTED THIS MAKES ME RAGEY it's fine
    3
  467. I have no doubts that Madam Hay will prove the most respectable of chaperones.
    3
  468. Valid 😍
    3
  469. I do have a video documenting the making (and pocketing) process of that skirt if you wish. :)
    3
  470. I lowkey mourned a bit when she lost it in the lake. 😢
    3
  471. After a month-long nap I presume 😂
    3
  472. I mean, I probably stole it from Pinterest or something, so it's hardly mine for you to steal from! 😁
    3
  473. Personally I don’t need inserts and find them extremely comfortable! I can’t usually do heels with my spine, but these heels are strategically centered in the middle of your heel (not slanting in from the side like most modern heels) so the shoes support your natural...center of balance, or something. Basically, I can wear these all day with no trouble. 🙂
    3
  474. C roll 😏
    3
  475. I mean, yes. Was it the most important thing I needed to buy whilst also furnishing a new workroom? Probably not. Do I have regrets? None at all. 😎
    3
  476. I'm personally not a fan of existing just as a pretty thing to look at; I have a voice, and I'd like to use it to share the things I've learned. If that's not your thing, you don't have to watch. x
    3
  477. 😭😭😭😭♥️
    3
  478. It was the shop called Fabric World! :)
    3
  479. It's a ticketed event, so anyone can--so long as it's not sold out!
    3
  480. Most of this video was shot in quarantine! The workroom won't be finished and ready for touring for another few weeks.
    3
  481. I haven't personally had to buy bras lately so can't say firsthand, but I can say that I've found small-scale/independent undergarment brands to largely comply with my anti-fast-fashion restrictions; as the garments are small enough (and tend to be naturally expensive--ie requiring more pay for labor--due to the complexity of their construction/inability to cut corners in most cases), they can be manufactured by ethically-treated workers in smaller factories, and can often be made of 100% organic cotton. I'd just suggest to do a bit of research--look into some independent brands and, as a general rule, stay away from large-scale ones that pretty much cannot physically be anti-fast fashion simply due to the quantity and frequency of inexpensive product offered. Have a browse of their site; the ones that are proud of their manufacturing processes will happily display them in copious detail--with pictures and video--on their websites. These are the brands we should be supporting!
    3
  482. 😅 I'm glad you're looking out for me! x
    3
  483. ...fair point 😅
    3
  484. This...is a point. 👀
    3
  485. yes 😎😎
    3
  486. He is not usually permitted in the area around the cutting table because that's where the wires are, and this is usually barricaded off--which is why he was so enthusiastic to get back there during this video. 😅
    3
  487. Mistakes can be fixed whenever you feel up to it in future; the important thing is to just start learning!
    3
  488. Huzzah! Merry historybounding adventures to come!
    3
  489. I hadn't thought of that but will definitely have to give it a try!
    3
  490. I see you come prepared. 👌
    3
  491. Ooh do you also have a video? I've linked a few others in the description so people can see construction processes for a range of body types and I can include yours as well if you wish! :)
    3
  492. No, they're both in delicate condition and I'd prefer to preserve them for future study as much as possible. ♥️
    3
  493. I mean, there is evidence of elasticated panels in some late Victorian corset styles, so it would still in concept be appropriate to the period! I'm not sure what's being worn underneath for the stunts, but the corsets that we can see in the exposed scenes all appear to be traditionally constructed. :)
    3
  494. It's taking aages, probably not until May--but I'm getting a progress video on it out for next week!
    3
  495. Not so bad actually!
    3
  496. We've actually been to MDRF, it was wonderful! Cù Dubh was 10/10 our favorite. 😎
    3
  497. Of course 😎
    3
  498. Oil :)
    3
  499. Yes, I have been in the middle of an international move recently which has put sewing production temporarily on hold and made glacial what is at best of times a very slow process; a new project is in the works currently but as it's largely hand sewn, it's going to be another few weeks until completion. If the non-sewing content doesn't interest, feel free to give them a miss, but I do still need to make videos that don't take months to produce. :)
    3
  500. 😰
    3
  501. You'll have to take that up with my publisher, I'm afraid; I don't get a say on the distribution unfortunately. :)
    3
  502. Spoiler alert--I've been using it as gift wrapping! ;)
    3
  503. Funny enough I did find some reproduction shuttle bobbins for like £2 last week as I was working on this video, which makes me a bit salty about my c. $40 original bobbin from last year. 😅
    3
  504. O H thank you, I shall add that presently!
    3
  505. I have lately been trolling the Depops and the ebays a bit more than I should. ;)
    3
  506. There were enough undergarments (corset covers and petticoats as the uppermost layers) that the transparency wouldn’t have been a problem! At least the gowns that I’ve seen don’t have lining layers behind them. 🙂
    3
  507. Oh no, that's an old reconstruction project I did before YouTube! In fact, it was during the long hours of hemming on that gown that I lamented why there wasn't a YouTube channel on original practice stitching that I could watch to keep me motivated. So I decided to make one myself. :)
    3
  508. I do have a fantastic editor who does my more straightforward talking-to-camera stuff, but more process-specific stuff like this I have to do myself. :) I love editing as an art form but it does substantially slow down my ability to produce more content, so we try to find a happy balance!
    3
  509. This sadly had to get cut from my script but I LOVED this detail! It's the shift (undermost layer) that is historically worn as the skin-layer to protect outer layers of clothing from needing regular washing, only they've drawn theirs up very close at the neck to help keep out the cold.
    3
  510. There's a link to the court case in the footnotes! She was allegedly trying to steal it. :)
    3
  511. Me too! :D
    3
  512. I'm SO SORRY I deliberately, actively, bodily have to untick that box every time I upload a video. Just went into my settings and it had been automatically re-ticked. YouTube has just changed their operations on this system and have got really annoyingly aggressive about it, so I guess I just have to check back in now every couple of hours to make sure it damn well STAYS UNTICKED. 😑😑😑😑
    3
  513. It’s all basted, held together with a whisper and a prayer, don’t worry
    3
  514. Loops are very rare in historical outer garments; buttonholes are a bit more stable as loops have a tendency to shift around.
    3
  515. you...you do have a point 😂
    3
  516. I do, often! See for example the beginning of this video. (Made here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql9r8UKIvZs) 🙂
    3
  517. Oh my goodness, hello! I absolutely adore it! Brilliant work. 😁
    3
  518. There is one! It's not public on my channel so it doesn't confuse the algorithm, but the link is in a post on my community page. :)
    3
  519. This is by no means valid primary evidence, but I loved how in Gentleman Jack, Anne Lister is seen wearing men's drawers and shirts in the undress scenes! This may have been mentioned in the diaries, I'm not sure as I haven't read them myself, but I imagine the discreet nature of underthings could potentially allow the wearer to adopt whatever styles were most comfortable to them.
    3
  520. It’s from Etsy originally, albeit purchased many years ago.
    3
  521. hahahah I love getting comments like this--my fabulous assistant Betsy is the one who does the subtitles so I'm always reminded to go and watch them myself! 😆
    3
  522. cherish it, give it a biscuit, poor little marble
    3
  523. There's nothing wrong with parting with them, so long as you do so not by way of landfill! Listing items on reselling apps like Depop and Poshmark is probably ideal, as you know for sure that the items are going to new homes; charity/thrift shops are also possibilities, although there is no guarantee that these shops hold on to all donations--much is unfortunately sent to landfill anyway.
    3
  524. Justice for Lady Stoneheart 😤
    3
  525. 😏😏
    3
  526. That's my philosophy as well. Art is completed and given meaning through its interpretation by others, so Harry Potter is ours now, as far as I'm concerned. I just have some minor qualms about financially supporting the franchise with unnecessary new memorabilia now--both for sustainability reasons and not-wanting-to-fund-idiocy reasons. 😬
    3
  527. I do get very very achy, there is no magic special sauce secret that I know of, I'm afraid! I distract myself with audiobooks/YouTube videos and hardly notice the time passing--or perhaps I am simply very well accustomed to back pain at this point. 😅 I do change positions quite a bit: working at the cutting table for a bit, on the floor, at my desk, on the sofa, just to change seating position. One stretch I do find really helps with the upper back/shoulders is to find a doorway, place your hands on either side of the frame, and walk forward slightly. This will pull your shoulders back and open up your chest a little bit if you've been hunching for a while. :)
    3
  528. 😶 oops
    3
  529. It's definitely a challenge; they're my most high maintenance items, are pretty much always rotating through the mending pile, and I can totally see why people who can't be bothered with sewing wouldn't bother to keep them; but it's so important ♥️
    3
  530. Do ittttt
    3
  531. #v
    3
  532. Oh wow!! Yes I would have missed that but this is good to know! A very small world indeed. :)
    2
  533. I only used the electric machine for the feeble reason that that is what I used initially when constructing the coat, and as it wasn't supposed to be a faithful reconstruction (but a modern coat), I used the electric machine. I have some late Victorian reconstruction projects coming up though that are all being completed on the hand-turned Singer. :)
    2
  534. Oh NO I’m sorry. I swear they’re turned ‘off’ in my settings—this is extremely confusing and infuriating, as presumably I’m not actually being paid for those. 😑
    2
  535. I'm afraid there were no eyelets on this project, but there were plenty on the 1890s gown from last year! They're very simple and quick once you've got the hang of them: simply stretch a hole in the fabric with an awl, then whip stitch around the circumference.
    2
  536. I mean...not unprobable 😅
    2
  537. Honestly...true.
    2
  538. I have--but it's so much work, and I have other things I'd rather be sewing. 😅 (plus I'm not sure I'd want to work/live in the room with a visual likeness of myself)
    2
  539. That is very kind but alas I do not have a mailing address at present, nor the space to store all the wonderful treasures I am offered! Perhaps try listing it on Etsy- there may be an interested buyer here. :)
    2
  540. Hi! I have an outside transcription service do a first pass at them, then I have an assistant who reviews them to correct errors/specialist terminology and adds in the funny bits. As this video was so long, the captioning service took more than the usual 24 hours to get the first round out, so it still has yet to go through final review. All should be corrected soon!
    2
  541. It depends on the fabric; certain lightweight, plain-weave silks and cottons tear easily, but anything that requires too much force to tear (such as most linens, heavier weight, not-plain-1:1-weave fabrics) will just warp the grain if you can even manage to tear it at all. :)
    2
  542. Hah thank you--I got it just before shooting this and clearly some experimenting was in order! 😅
    2
  543. Thank you 😤
    2
  544. Empire - French (Napoleon) Regency - English (George IV Regent) Federalist - American (after the first established political party) All roughly the same c. 1790s- 1815-ish period in terms of dress style, just specific to different geographical regions, the joke here being that we can no longer call the style (British) 'Regency' since America is now an independent nation by the second half of the show, and must instead switch terminology to the (American) 'Federalist'. xx -Not Your Dear
    2
  545. Can confirm these are the only two moods of sewing
    2
  546. It requires a great deal of being careful, especially as he blends in with the rug and has a particular liking for curling up next to feet.
    2
  547. There is an entire 12-part docu-series to be made around the significance of Anne Lister's relationship with clothing and its subsequent adaptation for screen 😅
    2
  548. BOSS WITCH
    2
  549. Yes
    2
  550. Drawing the clothes with as much detail as possible forces you to sit down and make design decisions, think about construction and materials NOW rather than later, when you've already cut things out and it's possibly too late to realize you actually like something else. Things like faces aren't strictly necessary to the garment decision making, per se, but I was trained as a theatre designer and taught that faces help to give the design character and life, which can be essential in communicating an idea to the production team. Plus, faces just happen to be my favorite part of drawing, so perhaps I'm just a bit biased towards them. :)
    2
  551. Please do, and help yourself to some snacks. :)
    2
  552. Oh no, I hope you are ok 😕
    2
  553. Probably not--half the skirt is meant to drag on the floor, and Faire is a very, very dusty place! (it's dyed one of my shifts permanently yellow from mud staining!)
    2
  554. I forget the name but it's that vintage shop at the base of Victoria Street!
    2
  555. Historical hand-woven linen was super strong--and the back stitching holding the pieces together requires many patient hours of careful snipping to unpick. Sorry period dramas, but ripping these textiles would probably have resulted in more injury to both the wearer and the tearer.
    2
  556. 😭♥️♥️♥️♥️ yes, only The Best Humans
    2
  557. yes
    2
  558. The puffy one? I made it--the video for it should be a few back on my channel. :)
    2
  559. It's a houndstooth check, yes :)
    2
  560. My wonderful colleague Raissa has done an analysis video of Titanic with Glamour--it should be one of the first things that comes up under a 'titanic costumes' search! x
    2
  561. Yep
    2
  562. THAT IS THE BEST TATTOO IDEA
    2
  563. Possibly! But the tight armscyes of waistcoats and coats would have shoved the fabric up there anyway; I guess then it doesn't matter how much room there is in the shirt, then!
    2
  564. The film is entirely irrelevant when there are so many pretties to look at 😍
    2
  565. Petition to make this the new typical 'going to the mall and hanging out with friends' activity 🙌🏻
    2
  566. This one is the Sony a7siii (a recent and rather indulgent upgrade)! Previously I have been a big fan of the Sony ZV1 and the Canon G7X. :)
    2
  567. I have admittedly become very attached to Cybermannequin. 🥲
    2
  568. I'm SO MAD I missed the opportunity to do : > instead
    2
  569. Obtain 2 slices of bread, butter the outside of 1, pile some shredded cheese on the other. (I also like to add a bit of white onion for cronch purposes if I have any in.) drizzle the underside of the buttered slice with a bit of balsamic glaze put sandwich together (balsamic glaze side down, butter side up). Melt some butter in pan, fry sandwich unbuttered side down, flip once crispy, then flip again. When sandwich is done crisping, gently pry apart bread and add a slice of cold tomato. Slice diagonally. Serve with avocado slices and some spinach, if desired. 😁
    2
  570. HECK YEA, I want you living your BEST LIFE ✨
    2
  571. They have a whole line of backpacks too! I swooooon, even though I have 0 need for one. 😅 re: sewing machines, I have a Bernina electric machine, which I just came to the realisation yesterday that I've developed 0 desire to actually use ever; I much prefer my antique 1891 Singer for all machine sewing projects--or hand sewing!
    2
  572. https://youtu.be/mxlSNzrqqqk
    2
  573. Perhaps I'll take a pattern off of this one and remake one myself! So many things to sew, aaaaah 🤩
    2
  574. Trousers, braces, waistcoats, tweed jackets. 😍😍
    2
  575. 'Lingerie' derives from French 'lin' meaning 'linen'. Being a lightweight and moisture-absorbing material, linen is great for summer wear (and in its hard-wearing-ness, also the material of choice for undergarments). 😁
    2
  576. I miss her 😭
    2
  577. Yes it's 100% wool, but sadly I'm not sure what type/breed, &c. Normally I buy wool online from European retailers as they're slightly cheaper (even with postage to the US)--this tweed was $85/yd while a lot of the wools I've bought in England/Europe have been around €/£45 per m. 😵 Definitely an Investment to be made on special occasion, but worth it for the quality!
    2
  578. They sew over quite easily; they're very soft, like fingernails--I'm sure some of us are very familiar with how capable machines are at piercing fingernails. :)
    2
  579. Oops I should have listed that in the description--it's from Burnley & Trowbridge! www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com
    2
  580. Old Victorian ladies are usually very nice!
    2
  581. This is also on my mind... 👀
    2
  582. He did wear a mask for the duration of my visit, I had only asked him to remove it for the tour so that we could hear him properly (as there was some loud machinery noise in the background), but he stayed away from the workers whilst he was unmasked. :)
    2
  583. I mean, same 🙃 If you can find a hand-turned one, I find those WAY easier to operate than modern machines!
    2
  584. The pencil was a generic mechanical pencil and the magical dust was tea leaves :)
    2
  585. :o I had no idea it was available yet! It doesn’t even have a finalized cover or title! Congrats, you may be the first. ;)
    2
  586. All is well, I'm just allergic to His Lordship 😅
    2
  587. Yes do it, we can match! 🤩
    2
  588. The video did preview to Patreon yesterday, so indeed your psychic powers are more potent than you think! Well done. ;)
    2
  589. Allow me to clarify--I initially made the coat c. 4 years ago with "barely any sewing experience"; I don't 'claim' to have started sewing then. In fact, I have been familiar with the act of picking up a needle and running it through some fabric for about 12 years or so, but it was just that: so little practice and development that I hardly had competent experience in actual garment construction until I had a bit of actual training at university. The difference is in the potency of training, not in number of years: the 9 years I spent dabbling in sewing, doing things quickly and improperly and hurriedly in an effort to get things passably done was not nearly so progressive as the three years I spent paying close attention to technique, to spending more hours practicing, unpicking and re-doing in an effort to do things well and neatly--and to actually *learn*. My 'skill' has developed infinitely further in a fraction of the time, because development of skill is all to do with the quality of practice, not an investment of a set number of years.
    2
  590. One of the great mysteries of life 🧐
    2
  591. I'm not at all complaining about people putting forward suggestions for content they'd genuinely like to see--that's how this video came about in the first place. I'm specifically trying to avoid recreating the comments sections of the likes of those more commercial 'costume review' videos, which are neither inspired nor remotely enthusiastic, but rather a bit demanding in their suggestions: 'do this next' 'can u review this' Without demonstrating any acknowledgment of/appreciation for the topic covered in the present video itself. That is what I'd like to avoid, if possible. I'm not a machine, stamping out mass-manufacture content: the hours of research I put into these sorts of videos are immensely justified when I can go down into the comments and see that people are actually getting value out of the information.
    2
  592. Nope--in fact, on extant 16th century (and earlier) garments, you can tell when the maker has waxed the thread before stitching: the thread survives when it has, but rots into nothing if it hasn't!
    2
  593. It is a tiny sword
    2
  594. If it's a straight running or felled seam, I usually allow the length of the seam plus a bit extra for good measure. For a back stitch, I'll allow one-and-a-half the length or possibly double. That being said, there's nothing wrong with starting and stopping! For long seams, it's best to work in shorter thread lengths as it reduces tangling (ie, don't attempt to take the entire seam in one go). Proper Sewing Instruction will tell you never to hand sew with a length of thread longer than your forearm, but I can't be bothered with that if the seam is under c. 2 feet long; there are drawings of 16th century tailors with miles of thread attached to their needles. So there. 😎
    2
  595. Only if you don't mind my knocking on your door to borrow a corkscrew on the occasion I need to open some wine for my Victorian hair dye.
    2
  596. It has been stuck in my head for two months, thanks 🙃
    2
  597. It is most definitely a series! 😁
    2
  598. It's modern, but cut to look 30s/40s in style!
    2
  599. Jill Bearup has a video covering this exact topic!
    2
  600. Usually they're rented from costume houses so are reused for various productions. :)
    2
  601. I do! You do need a washing bag for them (or I did, at least, to stop the fur from clogging up my washer) and they do require sweeping up the poos every day, so it’s a different set of maintenance tasks—but it’s so much less wasteful than the paper bedding I used to line his cage with. 🙂
    2
  602. That is the goal! 😁
    2
  603. Sorry!! They will hopefully be up by later today! x
    2
  604. Omg YES YOU DO because I also need to see this 😍😍
    2
  605. It's called 'masking fluid'--it's just a thin film of rubber that resists paint until peeled off to preserve white space underneath. Just be sure to use cotton swabs rather than paint brushes to apply it or you'll never get your brushes back!
    2
  606. I did actually do these since the wool was too thick to safety pin together in the back 😂
    2
  607. Yes. Always need cloak. 😎
    2
  608. My friend Constance made it for me from the recipe in the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty!
    2
  609. No, they just cycle through the mending pile every other month and are unreasonably high maintenance items, but it's better than buying new! ;D
    2
  610. I mean, hoodies are basically just capes with sleeves.
    2
  611. Nope, no I do not! Everything I’ve purchased from shops has had to be substantially altered as I am not logically proportioned. 😁
    2
  612. oh my, well you've still got a good few years in you! I should hope the dress will be finished by then! 😅♥️
    2
  613. *Powdered wig. Please. I need this.
    2
  614. I did not, I'll have to look out for one.
    2
  615. this is AMAZING
    2
  616. Yes but it is not finished yet so wouldn't be very interesting!
    2
  617. Some, but not extensively; this was lots of fun!
    2
  618. It is what will eventually become my new work space, when it's finished!
    2
  619. Yes I did figure that out by the end! 😅
    2
  620. I couldn’t part with it 😭
    2
  621. It depends on the fabric. Loosely woven fabrics (a lot of modern silks, chiffons, organzas, modern linens) will never hold up with pinking alone, but thankfully my silk taffeta was just tight enough that it worked.
    2
  622. I haven't come up with a solution to that part yet, so it will be just as much a surprise to me as it will be to you! 😆
    2
  623. Perhaps the longer sewing videos, but probably not all of my videos!
    2
  624. This is the gravity feed iron I've been using for the last 2-ish years, just with the steam tube detached for some of the process.
    2
  625. Thank you! Yes I deliberately did build one ad break into the structure of this video to slightly increase the revenue generated, as this was for a Special Cause--I don't like to do so for my normal videos though. :)
    2
  626. I mean, @Constance Mackenzie can speak best as she was literally one of the background seamstresses in that scene! ;) She's wearing her normal everyday Edwardian dress, which she functions perfectly well in; although to be fair, she isn't exactly fighting stuff daily--that I know about.
    2
  627. Agree ^ the opaque ones don't ladder (and are much warmer!) so can be mended indefinitely!
    2
  628. You don't have to remove it! It's better to wear and repair and love the clothes you do have, regardless of their origins, and just not buy more fast fashion when the time comes. ♥️
    2
  629. Morgan Donner has us all shook now. 🙃
    2
  630. I changed my phone to celsius when I was living abroad a few years ago and never changed it back, and I don't know the conversion. 😅
    2
  631. I'm not sure about making, but Dandy Wellington (early 20th c), Vintagebursche (Victorian), Jimmy the Welsh Viking (Medieval) and Zack Pinsent (Regency) are all fabulously inspirational!
    2
  632. Yes it was fascinating! :)
    2
  633. 😭♥️♥️♥️
    2
  634. In all likelihood not--only specific indigenous tribes have the right to hunt a certain number of baleen whales per year nnowadays, so you can only sometimes legally buy baleen plates from them; it's very scarce and is mostly used for indigenous crafts, scientific or educational purposes. :)
    2
  635. Absolutely!
    2
  636. It's a Sailor 1912 :)
    2
  637. That's fair, and the reality is, no manufacturing process is perfect; there are downsides to any consumer decision we make. While there are the obvious major environmental issues with synthetic animal products, there are also issues with some modern tanning processes in leather production, leathers that aren't ethically sourced (ie are not natural byproducts from the meat industry), &c. No one mindset is 100% ethical, so I think as long as you make an informed decision balancing the impact of the product with your own ethics and beliefs, that's entirely fair. But in any case, consuming less is the real win. x
    2
  638. English Renaissance Drama, full of loads of non-Shakespeare Jacobean and Elizabethan plays! It’s fantastic!
    2
  639. So is the starch. Corsetry was not intended to be cleaned with water, hence the copious washable underlayers worn as protective barriers underneath!
    2
  640. Sometimes YouTube automatically flags certain comments if it thinks they're spam and sends them to a section in my YouTube backend for the creator to approve or deny. Long comments posted rapidly within a short period of time and containing URLs are often high candidates for flagging. We try and get through approving as many of these as possible, but unfortunately there are a lot that come through.
    2
  641. Nothing withstands 8-show/week knee slides for too long, so these clothes are often (although not seen from stage) mended and mended and mended and patched! Tightly-woven materials are the best bet--anything too loosely-woven won't last a week.
    2
  642. Yesss the Pretty Housemaid is high on my dream project list, it looks so comfy! 🤩
    2
  643. That's a hard call to make seeing that we don't actually live and work in Victorian times and haven't been raised with their ideals to fully understand their thought processes. I will say though that the mindset of clothing manufacture historically was much smaller scale: whereas today, clothing companies manufacture for hundreds of thousands (or millions) of people, historically clothing was either made to measure, home made, or was manufactured domestically on a much smaller scale. I think it's fair to conclude that, historically, it was more likely that the maker/manufacturer had your particular body in mind (or something close to it), whereas today clothing is manufactured offshore in mass productions according to 'standard sizing'--arbitrary number combinations rather than actual human bodies.
    2
  644. For the present, yes. Unfortunately faux "leather" is just plastic so the manufacturing is very environmentally harmful and it doesn't produce shoes that match their high-quality/long-lasting standards; they've looked into natural fiber alternatives but none are yet commercially viable.
    2
  645. Very inspiring indeed. ♥️♥️
    2
  646. They are avocados 😎
    2
  647. 😭♥️♥️ Yesss, welcome to the wondrous world of YouTube!
    2
  648. Not mentioned in this video: I only ended up on the treadle listing after spending 2 hours down antique spinning wheel ebay and may or may not still be heavily contemplating that irresponsible purchase 🙃
    2
  649. It's not a 100% signifier--left handed stitching can cause stitches to slant in another direction, and there are no hard and fast rules saying that pre-19th c MUST ALWAYS be done in that particular way (that I've seen)--it's just something I've noticed to be common, and certainly by the 19th century we have specific instructions telling us that the opposite way is 'correct'. :)
    2
  650. That's the plan! More plans are in the works right now, waiting for a bit more of the world to open up again. ;)
    2
  651. It's SO GOOD, I adored the Broadway production so lost my mind when I heard it was reopening on the West End!
    2
  652. The description of this video 🙂
    2
  653. It's from depop but technically needs a lot of alteration surgery; you'll probably be seeing some more of it around here. :)
    2
  654. It's Early Modern English for 'soon' :)
    2
  655. 'Through the Hourglass'- I've been unironically just listening to it in my spare time. It is a jam, 10/10 recommend. 😎
    2
  656. I studied (and now presently work) in pre-WWI British and American dress specifically; the rest of Europe is also an entirely different game! I am very interested in collaborating with other scholars and specialists in other periods/cultures of dress and bringing them on to feature in videos, but as I personally have not done the prerequisite years of foundational research on those subjects myself, my own attempt to put something out with only a few weeks' research simply for the sake of a video would do more harm to the subject than good: I would inevitably be spreading misinformation due to lack of proper time spent consuming, comparing, questioning and interpreting the primary sources for myself. I hope in future I will be able to bring some broader subjects into my content--or promote the work of other creators focusing in different areas. :)
    2
  657. A true star 🤩
    2
  658. It means 'soon' and was quite common in earlier forms of English but for some reason has been forgotten. :)
    2
  659. This is such a good mantra ♥️
    2
  660. Oh my goodness hello!! What a small world! All the best to the little floofs! xx
    2
  661. Patience! Due to a publishing transfer, it is currently out of print but is scheduled to be available again by early next year.
    2
  662. Yes! Hence my excitement! 😁
    2
  663. Contrarily I have a deathly fear or public speaking so both that and acting classes were well out of the question. My speech results from a copious consumption of non-21st century literature combined with some time spent living in parts of the world that value the pronunciation of consonants. But worry not--I wasn't much a fan of verbal communication either until I realised that the magic of editing gives one the power to cut out all the dumb bits and leaves you sounding perfectly eloquent and well-spoken. Plus, these videos are almost always scripted; this isn't quick wit--of that I am incapable--it's just careful writing. ;) Do the thing!
    2
  664. It's a general thing, mostly for rabies prevention. It's got better in the last few years--now dogs, cats, and ferrets are exempt from quarantine if they have certification and the time has been cut down from 6 to 4 months for the rest of us.
    2
  665. Noelle swears by a corset pattern by Laughing Moon!
    2
  666. IT'S BEEN BOTHERING ME THIS WHOLE TIME
    2
  667. 4 months, and there's no way around it for rodents :(((
    2
  668. Yes, that is what Scoliosis does.
    2
  669. Team Rhaenys 😤
    2
  670. Yes, all further resources are listed in the description box :)
    2
  671. Correct. I was not paid to make this video and do not profit off of the shoe sales; I did that deliberately so that this video, which focuses extensively on the shoe design and production process, wouldn’t feel like a giant biased sales pitch, but could instead focus more on information and craft. This was a collaboration between myself and another team of creators—an exchange of talent rather than monetary compensation.
    2
  672. Yes, NYC is still on lockdown. In case you hadn't heard, we had around a quarter of the total cases in the entire country on our little islands. There were freezer trucks lined up outside of most hospitals because the morgues filled up. Central Park was a field hospital. I'm glad to hear that life has remained relatively uninterrupted for you, but we were hit hard, we lost too many neighbors, and we remain cautious.
    2
  673. Yes I believe my videos are all open for public translating if you so wish!
    2
  674. I basically view wool as such: sometimes I need to trim Cesario's toenails so that he can walk properly; but alas, guinea pig toenail clippings don't have the benefit of making nice tweeds.
    2
  675. I have done! It's a little ways back, but it's called something like 'drawing some humans'. 🙂
    2
  676. (Because she films the sewing projects for the Internet 🙃)
    2
  677. Some parts of it! When I think I might want to slow it down, I shoot in 120fps, which means a lot of the more ~aesthetic ~ shots and the end reveal footage are all high frame rate. The more explanatory shots that I know will be in regular motion or sped up are shot in 60fps :)
    2
  678. He's really used to human interaction! I work from home--and live in a room, which he roams freely--so he's pretty much constantly around me! Most pigs are not this sociable naturally--it takes a fair bit of training (ideally from a young age). :)
    2
  679. Luca used to wear Victorian women's dress every day, and look at him now: an Actual Icon. 🤩
    2
  680. Yes that is my old lady Liza, aptly titled the Mona Liza.
    2
  681. Yep, Bernadette Banner is my real name and so far as I'm aware, there's no relation to Bertha Banner--just an extremely happy coincidence!
    2
  682. No sadly :(
    2
  683. Oh how hard I laughed when I heard that in editing! Ah, throwback to the days of Bumpers snoring through fittings and trying to hold ourselves together. 😂
    2
  684. It is a metaphor for something particularly disastrous: not just garbage, nor a can of garbage, and not just an entire dumpster full of garbage but a dumpster that's been further set on fire. See: 2020.
    2
  685. sorry 😬😬 bad timing
    2
  686. I do!! YouTube ads usually pay me well. It's not the most reliable source of income, as the advertising rates and viewership numbers can change drastically from month to month (for example at the start of Covid, many advertisers were pulling ads and our revenue was cut down 50%)--but between the good ad months and the more reliable monthly brand deal, I do just fine. :)
    2
  687. You are perhaps missing the entire point of this channel. 🙂
    2
  688. Yes, I keep them clean and polished, and in the process of maintaining them you can start to see if any damage is appearing (damage to the sole, especially); taking the shoes to a cobbler to be resoled or repaired before they completely wear through is crucial to preserving them for a long time!
    2
  689. Not with the Victorian one, just the medical one as it was an underbust. :)
    2
  690. This is why there are so many disclaimers and explanations and demonstrations of reuse around this video that nevertheless some people will still fail to notice. One must be very blatant with things on the internet, sometimes.
    2
  691. I prefer to be addressed by my first name, or ‘Ms Banner’ if for any reason that is uncomfortable with you.
    2
  692. You are early! The videos preview 24 hours in advance to Patreon, so this was indeed actually posted when you got the notification. 😁
    2
  693. It just takes practice! Though I do find I'm in a particularly comfy position as I'm able to keep my content very much about the work, the educational substance, the sewing, the research, &c--and keep my personal life off the internet as much as possible. That really helps to keep me sane. You'll get criticism no matter what you do when putting yourself online, but I find it's much easier to distance your emotions from hate, trolling, or critical feedback on your work than it is to distance yourself from attacks on your person or personal life. That brings me much comfort. I can only distantly admire and respect lifestyle vloggers, online personalities, those whose content relies on close aspects of their lives--that is a burden nobody could pay me enough to bear!
    2
  694. Context is half the fun of a costume--or clothes in general!
    2
  695. The description of this video, for some free 19th c sewing guides.
    2
  696. Cotton, as far as I've seen :)
    2
  697. The best thing about wearing the most You clothes though, is that it's the most instantaneous signifier to the world of who you are. You're far more likely to attract people who understand (and experience themselves) your style of weirdness, your niche interests and passions, if they can see it on you before you even have to do the awkward introductions thing! :)
    2
  698. Never say never in regards to history, but I personally have not seen written, drawn or physical evidence of this. It wouldn't be very logistical as the splits for the skirt front would come down to where the pocket would need to sit to be conveniently reached. :)
    2
  699. This works for thinner silks and plain-weave cottons, but doesn't always work on linens or thicker/sturdier materials as the fibres are too strong, but yes, for lightweight plain-weave fabrics, this is an option!
    2
  700. Back to merrie England as soon as I can!
    2
  701. Hi
    2
  702. Hahh yes now you understand why I was in such a sour mood stitching it and not sure if it was going to come out stupid or not. 😅
    2
  703. It is an interfacing; it just isn't the more commonly used synthetic or fusible interfacings we typically picture today.
    2
  704. I was thinking that too--personally I don't think this dress was worn very much, if at all. ;D
    2
  705. yis, well spotted! 😎
    2
  706. Great way to know who didn't actually watch the video though 😊
    1
  707. Hahah yes, I just pick up whichever is closest to me, depending on where in the room I'm currently doing my sewing. :) I do find the metal thimble, while more historically accurate and thus what I should be using, to be much slower; the needle sticks into the leather thimble, allowing me to push it through quicker, whereas it often can slide off the surface of the metal one. But I will continue to practice! I did learn to hand sew with hard thimbles, so the muscle memory is in there somewhere. :)
    1
  708. The phrase ‘pig herd’ makes my heart sing 😭♥️
    1
  709. Oh yes technically I was only reviewing the second season which was released in 2020!
    1
  710. I found a 6 pack last I went shopping! Which was fortuitous as I hadn't bought any since before lockdown. 😆
    1
  711. It's ok, they can't open more than 3 inches!
    1
  712. I had hoped to draw it up to release with this video, but alas I can't take the A1-sized pattern to be scanned during lockdown and my attempts at digitizing were unsatisfactory. Perhaps some day in future--our pattern does exist, so I would like to release it!
    1
  713. Ooh I will look up the group, thank you! 😁
    1
  714. 👀👀
    1
  715. Thank YOU!! 🖤🖤
    1
  716. I'd need a lot of goat skin and some skill with leathercraft!
    1
  717. RIP yes it's definitely supposed to be 1681! 🫠
    1
  718. I haven't seen Beloved but Self Made and The Color Purple were fantastic, visually and story-wise! For more discussion on Harriet, Cheyney McKnight and Abby Cox did a wonderful two-part collab discussing Black-focused historical films (and the costumes therein), and Harriet is one topic of discussion; you might enjoy! :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pimz9ctRcNw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCUKUp0YjmM
    1
  719. I suspect this is a dialect discrepancy. I had only heard it pronounced 'bah-leen' when I was studying in England, and found it hilarious the first time I heard an American pronounce it 'bay-leen'!
    1
  720. 😏
    1
  721. I mean, technically the book I was referencing was published in 1905 making that Edwardian too (the bust bodice is c. 1902), but the basic shape of petticoats doesn't change drastically between 1895-1905. :)
    1
  722. do ittttt
    1
  723. 👀
    1
  724. I usually try to put a little pig-feature at the end of the longer sewing videos, but for some reason I don't feel it's cohesive to tack it on to the end of a shorter vlog or the scripted research videos. His Lordship will be back anon, not to worry. :)
    1
  725. The pattern diagram is provided in the video, around the 1 minute mark. :)
    1
  726. It’s just tea leaves—gives it a more oldey texture. Salt and sand also do interesting things!🙂
    1
  727. Not yet but I will investigate this possibility!
    1
  728. 😂😂😂 that's their problem, not mine!
    1
  729. Corsetry actually works better on people with a bit more substance, and I'm a bit disappointed that I couldn't give an accurate picture of the silhouette effect (twig-frame wasn't exactly an ideal body type in the 19th c). While I can't speak personally on the comfort level, I can point out that historical corsets are deliberately built with more room in the bust and hips with the intention that you'd be able to fill these areas out (or at least pad what isn't there)--hence the severe ledge at the top of the corset I'm wearing, where I don't have the natural body to fill that out and likewise don't have the proper undergarments to fake it. People vary in body type and composition, but it seems to be the general consensus amongst modern corset wearers that those with softer middles (as opposed to thinner or more muscular builds) actually get the most dramatic shape with greatest comfort.
    1
  730. Art school? 😆
    1
  731. Actually--yes, I intended to do it that way (as theoretically the back stitched side is invisible from the outside whereas the felling will be seen, if it weren't white-on-white, that is), but I accidentally did it the wrong way round on one sleeve 😜 You can't tell the difference though!
    1
  732. I noticed that too! Accidental, but perhaps a sign!
    1
  733. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXe41FiND7o
    1
  734. I should hope anyone with any sense—it is my legal name!
    1
  735. It...ends with an e... 😐
    1
  736. 🤭
    1
  737. I haven't come across this term much at all in history--'drawers' was by far the more common term for women's underthings; when I have, it's been in reference to men's garments.
    1
  738. yes
    1
  739. Yes it does! :)
    1
  740. The film itself was...An Experience. But the c l o t h e s 😍✨
    1
  741. This was in the video--I did do that at first but ripped it out because the horizontal boning channels would have to run through a portion of the busk pocket so that it wouldn't open. So I had to attach all panels, then put in the horizontal channels, then stitch the busk pocket in afterwords.
    1
  742. Hah I've just outsourced print sales to Redbubble--they do all the manufacture, fulfilment, posting, returns, customer service &c so we can put our efforts into actually producing video content. The reason it took 4 months to complete a simple alteration on this coat was because a huge part of our daily schedules involved keeping up the Etsy shop and constantly sweeping up all the admin that came with it!
    1
  743. Good 😎
    1
  744. Ah whoops, I'm counting the fabric shopping vlog (posted last month) as Part 1, in which I'm hunting for the materials for this whole project. :)
    1
  745. The difference between a FELLED seam and a FLAT FELLED SEAM is a matter of time and technique: flat felling is often done by machine in modern sewing, whereas felling is done by hand throughout history. While this is not a strictly historical project, I am most definitely not doing flat felled seams here.
    1
  746. Preorders are expected to begin in July with the book available from end of August! shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk. :)
    1
  747. Thank you! I am opposed to ads interrupting my carefully edited videos unexpectedly, but some of my recent videos have been deliberately paced to accommodate a natural ad break. (Developing a big new project that is needing some funding, I hope it isn't too much of a bother!)
    1
  748. "A peanut gallery was, in the days of vaudeville, a nickname for the cheapest and ostensibly rowdiest seats in the theater, the occupants of which were often known to heckle the performers." 😁
    1
  749. OMG that would have been ages ago!
    1
  750. That is a good question! As my own personal area of study only goes up to WWI (up to the adoption of the electric sewing machine), that's as far as my detailed knowledge goes--so anything I cover prior to that is most certainly within the realm of 'historical' classification. I would defer to the 20th century specialists to debate this!
    1
  751. Absolutely! This is exactly how I view my relationship with everything old: I am but its caretaker for the time being, tasked with keeping it well and healthy so that it's ready to be passed on to its next steward in good time. 😌
    1
  752. Yep, in the description!
    1
  753. Essential reading 👏👏
    1
  754. Yep, precisely as Sylvia says! It’s too small a surface area to be noticeably changed with washing, so it doesn’t hugely matter. In fact, silk is one of the strongest natural fibers, which is why it’s used for buttonholes (which see lots of wear and tear)!
    1
  755. 1) as stated in the description, 2.5 rolls were used (of the 6 pack I bought last week for the first time since before NY went into lockdown panic). 2) as per the end of this video, all components of the dress are still perfectly usable. Plus I get to make social commentary on High Fashion.
    1
  756. That is intentional, for the 'Gibbs' in Wilcox & Gibbs!
    1
  757. Bernadette is a New Yorker who lived in England for a bit; rest assured, it is quite normal for one's manner of speech to reflect any significant geographical history. :)
    1
  758. 😂👌🏻
    1
  759. 😂♥️
    1
  760. Wait h o w 😂
    1
  761. In summary: not even close. But not really trying to be.
    1
  762. Go for it! 💃🏻✨
    1
  763. Alas, I have never been to Germany. 🙂
    1
  764. Prior Attire!
    1
  765. Step One: don't cut it. That's it, there is no Step Two ;D
    1
  766. Ah that's just his black paw--I'm always afraid of cutting those too close 😭
    1
  767. Some historical examples did have ties, but the ones I've seen have only been two short tapes at the base of the collar to draw that section together; the rest of the space would have been concealed by the cravat/ruffles, so no need for all that cross lacing! ;)
    1
  768. My friend Constance made it for me from the recipe in the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty!
    1
  769. It's to do with the standardisation of clothing sizes and off-the-rack purchasing. Manufacturers intentionally cut armscyes on the larger side in the hopes that they'll compensate for a wider range of measurements.
    1
  770. noooooooO 😭
    1
  771. Have you watched to the end?
    1
  772. Swine Paralysis
    1
  773. I mean, Historical Accuracy is a myth anyway 🙃
    1
  774. No it's not sped up, I was just speaking REALLYFAST since the script for this was so long and I guess I didn't have much patience when recording 😅 You can slow the video down to 0.75% in the playback bar if it bothers you, otherwise hopefully I will get my head on better next time!
    1
  775. People sewed by hand very suitably for thousands of years before the sewing machine was invented in the 1850s! Hand sewing is a thing, and it's just as strong as machine sewing. Just be sure to wear a thimble!
    1
  776. Precisely
    1
  777. Can concur: alllll the linen!
    1
  778. Things are still super quiet here! I just set up a tripod in the middle of the road, ran away from it, then ran back--it was only a moment but this is the beauty of slow motion! ;D
    1
  779. These are temporary rows of stitching to hold the layers of fabric into place so they don’t shift into unwanted positions before being stitched permanently.
    1
  780. No, but one requires hairs much longer than the body hair of a horse in order to span the length of the weft. It's the tail hairs that are used, which are obtained through trimming or brushing and don't harm the horse. There may be synthetic canvas alternatives available, but one must question then the environmental impact of plastic fiber manufacture and scrap waste disposal (and thus the effect on sea and wildlife) before determining what is really 'humane'. It's a sticky question, regardless.
    1
  781. And you too! 😁
    1
  782. They are not at all the same thing, and it's difficult to describe the difference verbally--but a counter hem is two pieces of fabric turned and felled to each other on opposite sides; a french seam is two pieces of fabric stitched together with wrong sides together, turned, then stitched again so that the raw edges are encased within a small inner flange (whereas a counter hem is completely flat). If that makes any sense 😅
    1
  783. ♥️♥️♥️♥️
    1
  784. This whole collaboration was initially Abby's idea and was continued with her blessing. She's one of my best friends, and we chatted about everything extensively. :)
    1
  785. Patience. :) Regency through c. 1840s corsets tended to be 100% corded with little to no steel boning in them; those patterns might be worth looking at. Otherwise styles like the Pretty Housemaid (1890s) are almost entirely corded but just have (I think) about 6-ish vertical steel bones in them.
    1
  786. I was going to say...girl can sing, I most definitely Can Not. 😅
    1
  787. oh NO I definitely had a vlog clip about that but now I'm realising that it wasn't in my footage folder... it's ok, I'll find it in a month or two 😬
    1
  788. it's ok, mildly chaotic energy is the theme of the day apparently 🙃
    1
  789. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ad/Ball_gown_MET_65.184.65a-b_side_CP4.jpg/440px-Ball_gown_MET_65.184.65a-b_side_CP4.jpg https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/evening-gown-570841 https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/a-general-group-of-late-victorian-and-reproductio-174-c-e195a21b1f https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/id/9673 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/106575?utm_source=pinterest&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=lady_in_red https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ma-NfP-QqGw/WDTBp4JOGeI/AAAAAAAAQdE/SnDHbsZS7LwkgTHJzQr5stzkuq1SidWXwCEw/s1600/Worth%2Bevening%2Bdress%2Bworn%2Bby%2BEdith%2BKingdon%2BGould%2Bin%2Bher%2Bportrait%2Bby%2BTh%25C3%25A9obald%2B1898.png
    1
  790. Fabric can be an elusive topic still as, while many clothing brands are catching on to the consumer's desire to understand the manufacturing of their products (and will make such information available on the website, when agreeable), fabric suppliers generally have not. However I have heard from a small-scale fashion manufacturer that lots of stock bought up by independent shops in garment districts are actually excess unused material from large-scale manufacturing; which while the manufacturing ethics are still in question, still technically makes the fabric second-hand. More practically though, scale is probably the most important thing to look for: Jo-Ann, for example, cannot possibly be producing things as ethically at the quantity, rate and price that they do; whereas small, independently-owned retailers such as burnleyandtrowbridge.com and thehistoricalfabricstore.com buy stock in much smaller quantities (and tend to stock largely natural fibre materials).
    1
  791. Currently I do YouTube full time, but before this I worked on costume design teams for Broadway shows. :)
    1
  792. thank you :)
    1
  793. But I gained infinitely more gratitude and appreciation from the scores of gender-neutral viewers watching; they are who that bit was directed to. We treat all humans kindly here. 😌
    1
  794. I did! The canvas continues all the way down the cf edge, tapering down to c. 2” around the waist.
    1
  795. I basically just assume every brand is fast fashion until they go out of their way to tell me otherwise: brands that are proud of their ethical manufacturing practices will undoubtedly have a page for that on their website or FAQ pages. Brands that have things to hide will not make this information obvious. However there are certain brands I will never trust, no matter how hard they try and publicly proclaim their 'greenness' (ahem, H&M): assessing logically, they produce far too much clothing, far too quickly, and sell far too cheaply to be doing things in any way ethically. A blouse retailing for $15--after the profit markup, mind you--will in no way be covering the cost of 1) ethically sourced materials, and 2) a living wage for its maker.
    1
  796. :oooooooo
    1
  797. You can do the thing! 💪🏻
    1
  798. Please please do!! They are in dire need!
    1
  799. Oh wow, now that must be a very particular skill developed uniquely to operate that machine! :o
    1
  800. 😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑
    1
  801. Damn if I knew this was only going to be filler content, I'd have wasted 50 fewer hours in researching and producing it. 🙃
    1
  802. this is not wrong 😆
    1
  803. This...may or may not have been the logic 👀
    1
  804. oh no I'm sorry this one's literally a free sample of a real heckin' expensive Hermes color that someone dug out the bottom of their bag and gave to me back in the Before Times but it's actually a great color so I'm using it sparingly 😅
    1
  805. Stay tuned to Abby Cox's channel for a very pertinent video going up this afternoon! ;)
    1
  806. Probably the combinations video!
    1
  807. No it does not. 😅 I would use whichever lens attachment just fit the G7X lens and tether it to the camera by strapping two elastic bands around both and positioning them just out of frame. Not the most professional solution, but it worked!
    1
  808. Hahah YouTube automatically puts any hashtags listed in the description above the title of the video, and there's a #v in one of the web links in a citation! 😅
    1
  809. nOOOOOOOO :(((((
    1
  810. You are welcome 😎
    1
  811. Abby's done it, with experiments! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV2TgwjjhOE
    1
  812. We missed youuuu xxx
    1
  813. Yaaas I've seen a few other folks on here too; we should plan a picnic. 😎
    1
  814. Oooo excellent find!
    1
  815. Not to worry, it's still there in some of the shots! I probably should have Explained as I had a number of distressed comments in the last video too. I use them interchangeably, only had cleaned up a bunch of stray sewing supplies and the metal one was just there on the shelf, so I picked it up and started using that one out of pure convenience!
    1
  816. Absolutely! That is why the title specifies that this video is focusing on the development of pockets in England from the 15th c to present. The topic of pocket history is massive and would take several long videos to cover in any remote level of depth, especially when getting into the realm of embroidery styles and how those can identify certain extant pockets to specific geographical regions. And of course there are many forms of traditional and regional dress nowadays that still incorporate the tie-on pocket, so even the modern fake pocket is by no means a global norm!
    1
  817. Love you too, Gran, I'm glad to know that you're watching! 😁
    1
  818. I've actually just started wearing my 18th/19th c linen shift to sleep (a video of this is on my channel/also what I was wearing in the beginning sequence); I've decided I need to make another since I wear it now so much!
    1
  819. That was mindblowing, watching you do that 🤯
    1
  820. You make a very excellent point! ;D
    1
  821. It just means that the video has had closed captioning added by the creator (as opposed to the auto-captioning generated by YouTube). It's useful for people with hearing or auditory processing difficulties to know which videos will have accurate captions for them to follow. :)
    1
  822. Thanks so much!! ☺️
    1
  823. Thank you for joining!
    1
  824. New York is one of the states with some of the lowest Covid cases in the country at the moment due to our extreme level of organization and immediate action in response to the initial outbreak. Crime here isn't any greater than usual, or more unusual than in other urban parts of this country--certainly not a 'spree'. New York is my home, and if I have to stay in America, I'm not going anywhere else.
    1
  825. Yep, one on each side. But for the neck one, I only put one on the inside as it's just a split in the fabric, not an entire seam, and for aesthetic purposes decided to leave the outside smooth. :)
    1
  826. Yes of course!
    1
  827. You come prepared. 👏
    1
  828. The 19th century happened in America, but the 'Victorian Era' refers to the period during which Queen Victoria ruled Britain (1837-1901)--which makes 'Victorian' not the best descriptor for an American time and place. Just a little technicality :D
    1
  829. Sleep well! 😌
    1
  830. They'll be available until they sell out, then depending on how well they sold, may be reordered and restocked again. They do new reorders/restocks twice/year I think, so if they're sold out, then hopefully they'll be back soon. It sounds like the Bernadettes are selling well enough that they'll be reordered at least once. :)
    1
  831. oh no :( I shall fix it :)
    1