Comments by "😊 Erin Thor" (@Erin-Thor) on "TFLoffroad" channel.

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  50. The Real John Smith — Seriously? We have 7 F250’s at work, 5 Chevy’s (4 are diesels) and 7 Ram 2500’s. The F250’s are the problem children of the group. My friend’s F250 goes into limp mode literally every 3 months like clockwork. Now sure what he does differently than our guys at work, but he still loves the truck, like you do. And I’ve driven them F250s at work many times, I like them, but their incidence of repair is high, might be higher than all of the others combined. Every major component, alternators, water pumps, starters, it’s a constant battle. I have a 4 runner, my wife has a Sequoia, and I’m considering a Taco or Tundra. Toyota’s run 200k, 300k miles before anything breaks. And please, just STOP. When we go fishing, hunting and camping with my buddies mixed bag of vehicles, I’m the one who has to go to town to get parts and tools for their rigs. Stop taking this personally, I KNOW what I know. Jeeps and Fords are awesome for the function they were designed... but reliability is not one of them. And yes... I get it. I have to winch up some spots my Jeep buddies breeze through. I can’t tow the huge trailer up the steep road like my friends Ford. EACH HAVE THEIR STRENGTHS. Toyota (4Runners) are awesome, very reliable, but not the best off-road vehicles. But it goes over the same trails that broke their Jeeps and Fords, Chevys or Land Rovers sometimes 6 times in a day to get parts, food, tents, supplies, and tools. How about you don’t tell me Jeeps or Fords are reliable, WHEN THEY ARE NOT, and I won’t tell you Toyota 4Runner’s are great off road when they are not. O.K.?
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  70.  @rauland  — Well, you’re right, I did say no locking diff’s. My bad. There’s only 2 vehicles sold in the USA w lockers all around (to the best of my knowledge), Jeep Rubicon and Mercedes G-wagons. All others have some sort of lesser/cheaper setups. Even the highly regarded Toyota Off Road Pro versions use a (cheaper/not better) computer controlled braking system to fake 4x4. They work great in most mild situations, but if you get them stuck in muck or sand, they will give up the fight. Meaning the computer tries a few too many times, gets confused and just pukes. You’ll hear people commenting here on YouTube to tow truck operators “Don’t know what’s wrong, everything seemed O.K., but now it’s like no power is going to the wheels.” That’s the system saying it ‘got so confused, I’m sick!’ Restarting the car sometimes works, turning off traction control seems to resolve the issue too. You can buy locking diff’s for a lot of vehicles aftermarket, but only two come stock. This might help, Most RWD cars use open differentials, meaning power goes to the wheel with the least resistance. Get one wheel on ice, and you’re stuck. FWD cars ditto, but some just feed one front wheel all the time, the other wheel is essentially a trailer wheel that steers. The next step up are limited slip diff’s which diverts power to the wheel w the most resistance. The best use locking diff’s, and trust me, old school is better. Front and rear differentials direct power to the front or rear wheels, center diff’s split the power between the front and rear diff’s. In AWD’s it’s usually a 60/40 (60% rear/40% front) split. Better ones have a locking center diff which sends power to the front and rear diff’s equally. AWD means power can be or is always going to all 4 wheels, but they are almost always allow plenty of slippage as they are driven on pavement. Most AWD systems also have open diff’s so getting them stuck is easy too. Subaru uses viscous couplings to do the work of diff’s, which I think operate as a kind of clutch system that automate icky uses the pressure of the spinning wheel to divert power. I used to be skeptical of Subaru’s system, but there’s a ton of YouTube vids that show them in action... and it is impressive to watch. The newer method of faux 4x4 is CCB, computer controlled braking already mentioned. Good for most street conditions, but not “true” 4x4.
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  71.  @dklein8207  — It just that I’ve helped pull several dozen Fords, GMC’s/Chevy’s and Rams out of the mud, ice or snow. They are intended to help with traction on city streets, in mild conditions, and can be a great assist when towing. The Chevy website just says auto-trac or something like that. Not doubting you, just saying that without a center differential locker your power is going to go to the front or rear wheels with the least traction. So if they have a front locker (very extremely rare) and a rear locker, if the front or back wheels break free, you’re stuck in the mud because the center diff is going to send all of the power to the wheels without traction. And bud, I’ve been going off-roading for 45 years now, owned a few rigs, gone on several trips every year, and helped the people in their street vehicles get on their way more times than I can count. People see 4x4 on the side and think my pickup can do anything... not understanding their own trucks systems. As of 2019. The ONLY two vehicle lines sold with true 4x4 systems, with locking front, center and rear diffs were 1. Jeep Rubicon models, and 2. Mercedes G-500 series wagons. Overseas there are a few others like MAN trucks and whatever, but they aren’t sold in the USA. Doubt me, google it. Everything else sold stock in the USA does not have front center and rear lockers. And don’t misunderstand me, Chevy ZR whatever’s may have locking rear diffs. Great when towing. Not good in mud, sand or ice and snow. Better than nothing, but not a “serious” off-road machine. Sorry.
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  87. Greg Kittle — Dude, yes, they can "call them 4x4's" but that doesn’t make them one. They all HAVE a center differential, or power wouldn’t be directed to all 4 wheels. Period. However... an open center differential is EXACTLY like an open differential in the rear wheels of your car, get one wheel on ice, you’re stuck, all power does to the one wheel with no resistance. You can get out with it in gear, walk around the car and watch the power go nowhere. You must have some play, otherwise it’s hard as hell on your tires, and transmission on pavement. The next best solution is a limited slip diff, it directs power to the wheel with the MOST resistance, so one wheel slips, power diverts. The third best are the newer, cheaper systems that use open diff’s, but computer controls the antilock brakes to faux force the power to the wheel with grip. Sounds great, but they are slower, hard on your brakes, and they can get confused and shut down. Most traction control systems use this method. MOST 4x4's have some combo of these. But having a locking front, and a locking rear WITHOUT A LOCKING CENTER DIFFERENTIAL IS FREAKING DUMB! That makes it a barely effective two wheel drive, not a 4x4. There are only 2 sold in the USA, 3 worldwide that have locking front, center and rear diff’s, the Jeep Rubicon and the Mercedes G-Wagon. Overseas there is an INVECO truck, not sold here. Buy this machine, great machine, but DO NOT TAKE IT OFF ROAD! It is NOT a 4x4! Not joking, do your own homework from this point on you dolt.
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