Comments by "Brad Griffin" (@BradGryphonn) on "Project Farm" channel.

Given an unlimited budget for fuel, a long run test would be more 'real life'. But still, there would be factors unknown. Eg, an internal anomaly in the engine. Plus, in order to get some sleep, you'd need a large external fuel feeder to the engine fuel tanks. I'd suggest such tests would be impractical given that these engines may run for thousands of hours before dying.
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Another great test. It would be interesting to see if a 'wear in' test produced different results. I used to use Slick 50 in a 225 slant six engine. After an accident that split the radiator, I drove it roughly 10km to home with no cooling and the engine didn't seize. I changed the oil (and added more Slick 50 and never had an issue with the engine. I'm not saying Slick 50 is good, but I would have expected a motor to seize under those conditions.
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Just a query...isn't AvGas a more refined Kerosine? Maybe that would be worth testing.
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Ah, yes. I have confused avgas with turbine engine fuel, which is highly refined kerosene. Thanks for the clarification.
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Jerry Classing Love your work, and I agree. Rumour has it that Chrysler Valiant replaced the slants with the 245s and 265s because they weren't making money on parts for the slants.
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May I recommend testing the Morakniv 'Original' with the wood handle and laminated steel?
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@Georgiaboy9009 I worked for a company that had Redbacks as standard issue for employees (truck driving). They were pretty good. I wore Blundstones once...for about a week. Really hard to wear in, so I gave up.
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I was always a Loctite fan (since the early 80s). Vibra-Tite looks worth using though. Loctite (in this test) failed miserably. But then again, I've always used Loctite Red.
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I like as soon as your vid loads because I KNOW it will be good. EDIT 01: Less than halfway through and feeling all warm and fuzzy because you used one of your old faithfuls and not one of those new crate motors. EDIT 02: I have an (assumed) 2.5 hp OHC four stroke that does me well. It won't start without Ether, but it doesn't stop once it's going. Would you suggest trying a vapour set-up on an OHC 4 stroke? It could well be higher than 2.5. It hammers heavy lawn.
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Random thought (and not sure if you've tried these) Coconut Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Tea-tree Oil, Rice Bran Oil (has a high smoke point temp). As for additives: Liqui-Moly Mos 2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment and Nulon E20 Worn Engine Treatment.
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This comment is a year and a half late. But I use white vinegar to clean up cast iron pots and pans. I've also used it to remove rust/corrosion from carbon steel knives. I find that vinegar is gentle enough that if you forget about the job and leave it in vinegar for an extended period it doesn't adversely affect the cast iron.
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@ProjectFarm You're welcome. I recently restored a forgotten cast-iron 'camp oven' that had been sitting outside in the weather for 8 months half-filled with an old casserole/stew. Removing the almost welded lid revealed a slurry that looked and smelled like a septic tank. After hosing out the gunk I filled the 1-gallon pot with vinegar. I repeated the process four times, combined with some rotary wire-brush work to ensure all the gunge and rust was gone from it. The process took about 2 weeks, but eventually, I had it back to a useable pot. I've used it since then and it has no odour, no rust and (after seasoning of course) is 'non-stick' again.
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We used to call this 'White Spirit' in Australia. It was also used in old clothes irons that used fire to heat up.
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Brilliant test. Thanks again for great content.
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6:30 The decking nails tend to 'unscrew' from the timber, rather than pull directly out. It would be interesting to see how they performed with if you could prevent the twisting action. From my (limited) experience, I've seen this in action when using a claw hammer to remove them. It's easier to expose the head, then twist the nail out using multigrips or locking pliers.
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I went looking for this video because I use a product by Nulon called 'Start ya Bastard!' which is basically Aerostart. It's 25% Ether (plus anti-knock additives) with a Dimethyl Ether propellant. I'm surprised I missed this video. I thought I'd been subbed and notified since before August. EDIT: In terms of a Diesel engine. I'd be wary of running pure starting fluid in one. I had an old 60 series LandCruiser (2H non-turbo diesel 6 cyl) with a few dead glow plugs that wouldn't start cold. Aerostart (in later years "Start Ya Bastard) was my go to. The extra compression in the diesel engine causes the combustion of the Ether. In fact, they warn NOT to use the glow plugs when using an Ether-based starter spray. In my case it didn't matter because most of my glow-plugs were stuffed. Either way, in my experience, spray start stuff causes a nasty initial knock in a diesel motor.
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Interesting results. I bought a pair of Wolverines a few years ago online for $72 Australian (54 USD). They're a different style of boot than those you tested though. Mine have a side zipper, steel caps, and a reinforced sole. They've worn very well over the past two years with minimal soul wear. Given that I do/did a lot of walking in my job, they've been comfortable, although a little heavy after a long day.
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I enjoyed this. I think I mentioned my experience with a 'Slick-50' treated engine. Of course, the difference was that I didn't lose oil, I lost all the water in the cooling system (a '67 VE Valiant 225 Slant 6). The engine kept running at extreme temperature for about 8-10 km, the distance to home. Replaced the radiator and damaged panels and replaced the oil and filters and it ran fine. My experience wasn't scientific though because I used a particular custom oil blend designed for older engines.
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That's very interesting. I once had a 1967 Valiant (a Chrysler with 225 slant six). To set the story, the front bumper on these cars is a shallow 'V' shape and at the centre where the two halves meet at the back, it's tack welded together. I was in a rear ender and the bumper split and almost cut the radiator entirely in half. It was driveable, but with no way of cooling it and a 11KM (7 miles) drive to home. I had treated this engine with Slick-50 about 6 months prior and figured it would be a decent test of the manufacturer's claims. Well, I drove it all the way home. There must have been some water near the temperature sensor because it sat at boiling point all the way. It was damned hot! However, after I repaired it and did another oil and filter etc change the engine ran on with no drama for years. I am pretty sure if it had dumped its oil though, it would have seized pretty soon after I tried to drive it. The Wynn's company here in Australia used to tour around with a six cylinder engine that ran on its 'Friction Proofing' oil. The motor was set up on a stand running at around 2500RPM with no cooling system. They also had a pressure test set up to show the wear or lack thereof on a bearing when the friction proofing oil was used.
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There is probably minimal risk when the vessel is full. However, when the there is a small amount of fuel left in the container, a BLEVE is a real possibility. But then, given the size of the air inlet hole, you may end up with a mad flame-thrower.
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Oh, I would suggest that the oily film inside the head is the 'anti-knock' additives.
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G'day, mate. I bet you spend a lot of time reading comments! At the start of this video, watching the capabilities of these jump starters, I began to think that I should upgrade from my current jump starter. I have one of those oldish-school bulky starters with the lead acid battery hidden inside the plastic casing. It weighs about 12kg (26lb?), has a USB output, 2 12 volt cigarette-type outputs, 1900A cranking power, and can start anything from a 5 litre petrol to a 3.5 litre diesel. However, I've started higher-capacity diesels with it before. It will happily crank my 4.0l petrol motor multiple times before needing a recharge, which is usually overnight. I rely on this jump starter at the moment because my vehicle has a dead alternator and I can't afford to replace it just now. So, serendipitously, I have three 12-volt batteries of the same type and rating that I can swap out of my ute when they start to dip in voltage. If I get caught down the road I can use the jump starter to get me home. At the moment I also carry one of the spare batteries in the car because I don't want to kill the ones I have before I can get the cash to get new alternator. Anyway, after watching your tests, I reckon I'll just wait it out. My old jump starter works fine and the 300 bucks I could spend on a new, smaller, perhaps less robust starter could be better spent towards a new alternator...After all, my old faithful cost me over 200 Aussie Dollars.
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Great video.
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Many years ago, I was lucky enough to meet the man who started Bimrose Lubricants http://www.bimrose.com.au/ I was also a personal friend of a truck owner/operator who swore by these oils. Maybe try their stationary/mower engine specific oil?
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You may not see this as you get flooded with comments. However, I recently purchased a budget 3000 watt generator. It has a 208cc engine. Prior to running it, I drain the sump of the miniscule amount that is left after their original test run and drain. I have filled it with a Penrite brand (Australian) HPR-50 (40-70) wit 1500+ ppm Zinc. My reasoning is that I won't be running the genset often but when I do, it will have a good load on it. My 'enough to be dangerous' knowledge of oils is that this oil, with its zinc and other additives, will assist in keeping a protective coating on the components when not used, then, after a few gentle pulls on the crank, it will help coat the crank, etc at first start. Further, when under load, and being air-cooled, the heavier weight, especially in the tropics where I'll be, will cope far better with the expected high temperatures. Gensets are under a lot of temperature stresses when the ambient is anywhere from 28 to 36C. I was once derided for this choice, so would be interested in your opinion. I used to run straight 50-weight oil in a 1600cc Kombi engine and it loved it.
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Oh, and thank you. I really enjoy your productions, especially the slo-mo carby and fuel shots.
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I can't thank you enough for doing this test. I've watched a number of those 'vapour' videos, including ones where people ran cars. I am still sceptical about old naturally aspirated multi-cylinder engines running on vapour, but I am now a believer in the vapour lawnmower. However, given the minimal savings, I don't think I'll convert my mower anytime soon...I do have a three cylinder Daihatsu sitting in the yard though...
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Diesel has a minimum flash point of 52C (125F), whereas Gasoline/petrol has a minimum flash point of -43C (-45F). For the uninitiated (probably not many of you), the flash point of a potentially flammable liquid is the temperature where enough of the liquid can evaporate/vaporise to form a combustible mixture with air. Propane has a flash point of -104C (-155/6F). It would be interesting yet extremely dangerous I guess, to try and rig up a propane feed to the motor. I'd assume you would require a minuscule amount of propane to achieve ignition. Controlling that flow and preventing any blow-back would be the biggest hurdles do you think on that motor. I guess it would be possible to modify a motor car LPG system. Or have you tried propane already? You can tell I'm new here :)
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Thanks again for some excellent testing. It seems to me that different brand thread lockers should be used depending on the application, eg, Proseal would be ideal in high heat applications.
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