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Comments by "" (@tomk3732) on "Project Farm" channel.
Ditched rechargeable batteries like 10 years ago. They are expensive per battery and a lot, most of my batteries when replaced are lost. So no reason to use rechargable batteries. They also have low voltage and are heavy.
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Feels like an engineer got into farming. Everything is as per spec.
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This is the topic I know a lot about. What is not checked here at all is how concentric holes are and how big the holes are. Cobalt makes drill bits touch harder, thus they were far less worn on hard steel. Same idea with coatings, but they make lip duller and don't last for resharpenings. Pilot point is not an issue when sharpening. You just eventually remove it.
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All tools he buys are a tax write off for his business. He may keep some stuff or sells it off at auction.
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Knockoff uses similar but not the same components. They also re-designed stuff such as the motor etc. Both R&D times would be similar.
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@grantdavis5992 No but I did drill some holes in a pot handle. This is no longer such a big issue today with most electronics using lithium batteries - but it used to be a somewhat a big deal in the past. My GPS used one pair per day. Resupply was every week. So this would be like what 200g difference or more using rechargeable batteries. Also when cold they don't work - so if its very cold I used lithium sticks. Now I use very few AA or AAA batteries - usually just like 6 AAA batteries for a two months for emergency headlamp use (it has power bank) - then I give them away to locals. At home maybe use like a dozen batteries a year, things such as smoke alarms, few clocks. Oh and volt meter. Almost forgot, thermostats. None of these would benefit from rechargeable batteries. Today almost everything comes with build in power bank - so AA / AAA / 9V are very rarely used.
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Wheels that do not wear fast are for softer materials, the binding between grains is strong. For harder materials, say HSS, you need softer wheel, grains are held weakly and thus dulled grains are quickly replaced. I think there is a lot of cheating here with wheel material, i.e. Cheap wheels will use less of actual cutting material and more bonding. I was hoping the stall test would be done with same standard wheel, otherwise wheel quality is affecting the test for jet. Also i would hope there would be vibration test, main difference for me between cheap and expensive grinder is vibration. Cheap stuff vibrates a Lot.
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Lansky sounds Polish - at fraction of the price of Russian or US equipment it does a very good job. Can you please do review of hand cleaners? Like regular bar soap vs. liquid soap vs. dish cleaner vs. Gojo and similar hand cleaners. There are reviews online but I think their "test dirty hands" are not good as after 2min all cleaners work great. From my garage experience I cannot clean my hands even after 5min. Maybe similar standard test as with oil that you do - create "standard" dirty hand and test it
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The 2nd number is working viscosity. The first is cold viscosity. The 2nd should not vary from what manufacturer recommends. The first can, for example, with recommended 5w-30, it is totally safe to use, and better in winter, 0w-30. You can use something like 10w-30 in spring. Or straight 30 in summer. When requested, manufacturer will provide whole table of oil to cold start recommendations. To thin oil, 2nd number may cause wear by not sticking enough while to high number does opposite. There is always big discussion of oil for use in machinery. Hunting for strange oils, like ISO 18 for my Lathe or ISO 10 for surface grinder. Note different viscosity scale.
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I think he is Canadian. From Prarie provinces.
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Adding drill chuck to a grinder is not such a bad idea. It would be used in wood like a router bit or sculpturing cutter. Sort of like a die grinder but with wider choice of what could be loaded. You could also use it as a right angle drill for tight spaces. Battery grinders are slower and rpm would quickly drop under load, still for smaller drill bits.
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It would be great if you included the white milky water soluble oil - the one used for saws. It is used by a lot of machinists myself included as it is very cheap. Test idea - maybe to short for you - there is a LOT of discussion all over machinist boards about the need for a saw blade to be lubricated with the milky stuff. Horizontal saws above tinny hobby size all have coolant ability, no vertical saw under 2000lbs that I know of has cooling - just how important is cooling? Is the milky stuff way to go or is there something better? Maybe you can use small portable saw for the test. If you don't do it and all of my 10 viewers will be happy ;)
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Two things I don't think you reviewed yet. One is bandsaw blades with and without coolant. The other is end mills. Milling machines are now common in many workshops. Is that cheap Chinese 10 usd 12mm carbide EM just as good as US made for 60? Oh and coating performance on cutting tools, how much difference do they really make. We have a lot of coatings now.
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So the moral of the story is that unless you go for the very cheapest tool you do good or even great - as usual SATA at just 13 was better than 10x more expensive Snap On. Can you do a test on hand cleaners? Does the orange really work better than just soap?
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It is unfortunate that well known brands moved into making low quality products just to "compete". Brands such as Wilton making absolute garbage that is half as good as HF. It is a good example of how to destroy your brand. Very disappointed with results by wilton, Irvin (that owns Record brand) and Ridgid. Of note is that I tend not to use vises with rotating base, all mine are solid with exception of a 1920s vise that has ratcheting base which is very solid.
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Toyota. I have 210 miles. No issues. Should go another 200k without any issues. Change oil and add gas.
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As it has been proven like 1000 times already do not buy the very cheapest stuff - HF Icon is an example of a great deal. I am still waiting on this review of hand cleaning products. Tip everything is greatly enhanced by scrubbing hands with a dishwashing scrub pad. Come on, you are afraid to get your hands dirty :)
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No surprises, as usual HF brand is better then Sanp-On. Sell your Sanp-On and get quality from HF.
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Moral of the story is that the thinner the oil the bigger additive package it needs to minimize wear. Thin oils are used in high speed applications & to save energy. Interesting info.
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So it is safe to assume a single drywall screw or deck screw will hold whopping 200kg - or even to be safer 3 sigma safe 150kg. That would mean that just a dozen of these screws can hold almost 2t with large safety margin build in. Wow.
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Do you really want a challenge? There are both cheap and expensive glass and magnetic DRO systems. Debates rage as far as what is good and what is bad. The problem with testing DRO is that it is like 100x harder to test than say digital calipers. You need laboratory style setup with constant temperature and super sensitive indicators. No one in Canadian machinist group seems to be able to do a decent test.
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Whatever you do, do not buy Stanley :)
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There is no difference - re-watch the video. Difference is between economy copper spark plug which your Honda OEM is not. Video shows difference between normal NGK and E3 is around 0.1% -i.e. worth it if price of each spark plug is at most a $1 or $2 more then OEM. Otherwise OEM is the way to go.
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Note that the 22 dollar attachment is around 100 year old drill bit sharpening jig. It has a learning curve. What you should test is how accurate holes are after sharpening. I can sharpen a drill on a bench grinder faster and with sharper edge then any sharpener, but hole accuracy is an issue. At around 1/4 inch it is hard to grind by hand even when measuring lips and angle guide. Finally finish is far nicer on belt sander then on a grinder. Darex makes high end drill grinders, drill doctor is their home shop brand - hency it's plastic case and weak motor.
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Citric acid works very well and is base of many commercial rust removers.
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I know this may not exactly be possible, but could you run these generators for say 100h? Or even more and compare wear? Main complain for cheap stuff is electronics failing and possibly motor failing. You buy a unit, use it for 5 years and board fries, no spare parts and throw it away. With Honda you can use for a decade without an issue. Spare parts are expensive but available. I wonder when, if not now, we see cheap generators with good electronics that last a decade.
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Advertisers noted your response!
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No big shock here. The brand name stuff did well as did more expensive stuff per drill bit - cost per drill bit and cost per drill bit size matter. A better test would be how much steel can these bits go through - how many inches of mild steel. On hardened stuff or even alloy steel the cheap stuff dies rather quickly. Also the weight test is not that great as drill tip design plays a role, not just splits but also angle. Finally sharpening drill bits properly is very hard. Sharpening them so and so is not hard. Heck you can sharpen stuff by hand on a grinder above 1/4 inch and it will make holes - sharpening with even expensive cutter grinder so its perfect size holes (within tolerance for drill size) consistently is difficult. If it was easy Darex would not be in business and they would close their high end line (vs just making Drill Doctor).
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@ChrisWijtmans Yes, I frequently build larger ones from 18650 batteries. Smaller devices almost all have them now so zero need for rechargeable AA / AAA.
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I think I already suggested this a few times, can you do a video about end mills? I also suggested I think one video about metal band saw blades, lube vs dry.
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The verdict is in, there is zero need to spend $$$ on premium spark plugs - OEM does it fine and fuel savings are miniscule & do not pay for the difference. Expected result. Note OEM is iridium based spark plug. Also it does not pay to get economy priced cheapo spark plugs for anything but very rarely used equipment - certainly bad idea for a car or truck.
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For drills battery stuff makes sense. But for high power applications there seems to be a clear win for corded.
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I think this is the very first time every that a knock off wins against the real stuff!
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It was on SALE when it first came out in Canada - making it cheaper then conventional oil from a brand name (!)
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Umm, what are you doing to your Taco? I use OEM spark plugs, 87 octane gas (as it was designed for it) and I routinely go to around 400 miles before filling her up. Same engine same gas tank. About 50 / 50 split. Going just 320 suggest either very fast highway / winter 4x4 or mostly city.
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Only coated bits would loose performance.
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If I need precise 30 deg I use tool cutter and grinder. It's like using a sledge hammer to kill a fly 😊 I bet most folks just use a grinder and flap disk free hand. I mean I still sharpen drills free hand despite 2000 jig next to the grinder as it's... faster.
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Pro tip. Remove any pouring device from container. Buy large spout designed for gasoline or diesel, made of metal so you can rest your container on it. Finally, I never paid so much for a gas can, get them on auction for like under $5. Don't get old metal cans, rust is no good for the engine.
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It is rather well know that cheap welders do not produce advertised amps. Thanks Joe for the help. Yes, do MIG welder review as well as TIG For TIG can you try to compare not the cheapest out there but competition to the Lincoln / Miller which is welders in 200 amp range for around 1500 CAD. For example how well does Everlast brand do vs. Miller (original Everlast welders were clones of Miller with a whopping 5 year warranty).
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Depends on how overbuild it is by home owner. If not over the top it would do roughly as well as say Irwin or some non drop forged stuff.
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@muddybadgers5205 It would be difficult to keep up with drop forged ones unless you forge yourself. Steel is expensive, most guys would make a C clamp by welding for example a thick walled square pipe. Yes, it would be strong but a bit cumbersome. But if you used say 15 lbs of steel vs. 5lbs and made it LARGE then yes, you could go and compete with 5lbs drop forged stuff and win - but it would be a large cumbersome thing. In same size category you cannot compete with drop forged without... drop forging. You can also cut out a C clamp from a plate - it would be almost as strong as similar weight soft steel clamps. You could get some alloy steel - say 4340 and cut out a C and maybe harden it a bit to compete with HD Wilton but it would not be even close to $40 your cost, not to mention lots of work involved. I still would bet on Wilton winning it in 20lbs category of clamps.
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This was my suggestion together with much, much more expensive endmill stuff. What you only touched on is hole quality and mostly... Size. Do they still drill proper size hole. Also should compare to hand sharpening. I own Darex M1. Old 1970s, like super expensive drill doctor. But I still do touch-up by hand. I also designed a jig for large drills, up to 2.5in.
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I think this proves it beyond any doubt especially combined with other channels, that Snap On is simply not worth they money! Husky is a very good choice for budget buyer! In Europe they did similar test with metric wrenches, but as with everything they have there a standard for wrenches, and they were measuring each brand vs. whatever they passed. This includes things such as max / min opening (i.e. for 12mm wrench they have min / max size it can be), min torque before breaking. Interesting was the fact that indeed all wrenches they tested, including cheap China, passed.
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All synthetic oils here are so close to each other that it feels a lot of tests are within some margin or error. I agree that base oil seems near identical. For purposes of using these oils, they are the same oil. 1% difference is not a lot at all & if you got say 10 containers of each oil from different batches results would vary by said 1% (hey maybe prove this? Is same oil really the same across different batches? How close are they?)
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I know this is not possible to easy test but the main issue with these units is low durability - i.e. they are all junk after few years. I wonder why there are no lithium jump starters available for say $300. These should last 3x as much & be lighter & provide better starting currents.
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Use hose with steel outer (stainless) they have interor tube but outside is very hard to destroy - I even drove my truck over it few times.
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I know you mentioned the next day, but you did not try to use the recovered batteries for say few weeks. I.e. Battery may appear to be fixed but then quickly deteriorates.
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I found that given the price of each HSS cutter the "cheaper" brands are not really much cheaper than well known stuff & performance is very similar - as this test has shown. Annular cutters were not intended to be used for anything more than mild steel. Clearly carbide is far superior to HSS - through for some reason in annular cutters it is less common - maybe due to chipping?
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Have you ever tested glass / ceramic drills? I once got these drills from aliexpress - cheap China. They out lasted Bosch like 10 to 1 and were 10 times cheaper! Chinese are very good when it comes to carbide.
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It is fun to notice on aliexpress that the same batteries have rating of 1200 but rebadged magically have rating of 9800.
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I just replace whole windshield. In Alberta every winter if you drive a lot.
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