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David Elliott
Project Farm
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Comments by "David Elliott" (@davidelliott5843) on "Project Farm" channel.
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-40F = -40C properly cold
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I’ve used ring shank nails but found them easy to bend and inconsistent at holding. Not impressed. I don’t have a nail gun so screws are my usual go-to.
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@ariansanders5140 My tyre tech has no problem with the stuff other than he gets less work fixing punctures. But he doesn't like doing punctures so he's not really fussed either way.
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Cheap cutters, good enough to not wobble about, are usually good enough. Get three for the price of one SnapOn. If you need serious chopping power use bigger cutters.
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https://multiseal.us/
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Aluminium is a better test because it galls and clogs cheap bits.
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Anybody with that much water in the tank has a far bigger problem than water in fuel. A test with 0.5% water into gasoline would be a more realistic.
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Although EVs are (generally) cool the Nissan Leaf screams “boring tin box”
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The original JB weld ads said "Stronger than baler twine". Can't argue with that.
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But I wonder if a con rod totally cast in JB Weld would do the job.
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Steel is easy enough to drill. Aluminium is another matter. It clogs the cutting teeth leading to overheating and poor quality holes. Not to mention ruining the bits.
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During WW2, my uncle ran his motorcycle on TVO. Tractor vaporising oil was similar to kerosene. He did about 60 miles a day commuting. He started it with gasoline in the carb float bowl. Ignition timing retarded to avoid holing the piston. Engine was a James 200 with cast iron cylinder. Power was well down but it ran. Every week he pulled the cylinder and soaked it in caustic soda to clear the carbon. His pal did that with a BSA Bantam and dissolved his cylinder head. Some people wrapped a turn of copper tube around the exhaust so that warm TVO was fed to the carburettor. I imagine that was trial and error so it got warm enough to help combustion without literally vaporising too soon.
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Anti seize is not intended to lubricate as that would cause threads to shake loose. The powdered effect inside the engine is exactly what you want for a non-moving thread.
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Chain saw oil thinned with white spirit makes a great anti corrosion coating. It does gel so don’t get it on your paint.
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A blown cylinder head gasket (watercooled) will effectively jet wash the affected cylinder heads. Water injection might need to be quite considerable to get the same effect.
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My car has a 55AH lead acid battery. It's got carry handles it's so HEAVY. My 1200cc BMW motorbike had a 14AH high spec all singing and dancing lead acid that weighed 10 pounds. I fitted a 4AH LiFePO4 battery to the bike. It weighed 2 pounds and was physically 1/4 of the volume. Yet it turned the engine faster than the lead acid. I put it on the car. Not only did it start the car easily, it also had no problem handling the load of the electric power steering AND the rear window heater. That particular power steering is especially fussy with low system volts. But no problems at all. HOWEVER, LiFePO4 struggles below 5 degrees C (40F approx). It needs a couple of failed starts to warm the battery core. It then works fine, BUT the car's clocks will have reset and some car electronics get uppity when volts go too low. The solution would be a built in heater core within the battery. In cold weather hit heat before turning the starter.
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Always point the moving jaw towards the direction of rotation. Always nip up the jaw before applying torque.
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The plexiglass test would have been better with new bolts. The rust grains in the done test provide a convenient path for the penetrant. Steel especially stainless into aluminium is tough. Electrolytic action creates aluminium oxide which expands 2.5x the pure metal and seizes the threads.
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Biodiesel has about 95% of the energy in Dino Diesel. However it contains oxygen so ignites more smoothly so stop start driving is cleaner and has similar miles per gallon to Dino.
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I use Action Can CS90 copper/carbon. Rocol products are even better but more money. My motorcycle had real problems with stainless steel bolts into aluminium alloy. Galvanic corrosion causes almn oxide to seize the bolt. High solids copper based paste stopped the corrosion. Copper washers under bolt heads also helped. It also worked well on exhaust header nuts. Clean aluminium just rotted solid. Coppers sits between Al and SS on the galvanic scale. I believe the copper short circuits the galvanic circuit. .
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The biggest west factor on two strokes is piston slap. Uneven combustion at part throttle causes the piston to literally rattle about. Run at enough load to avoid that and the engine will have a long working life. The latest direct injection 2 strokes breathe air only. Fuel is injected direct into the cylinders after the ports have closed. They have far less piston rattle. Also there is no gasoline to wash oil off metal surfaces so they need less of it. Around 50% less than a normal two stroke.
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They usually have protection circuits, but taking a lithium ion below it's minimum will brick it and ordinary lead acid won't take very kindly to it.
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The Loctite is a rust converter that changes the rust to an inactive oxide layer. The HCl acid removed rust but is difficult to neutralise. Anything left behind will eat into the metal.
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If you own a motorcycle in UK you’ll know that corrosion prevention is a nightmare. The best product I found was CorrosionX, it sounds like Fluid Film. It chases off water but It’s not a penetration oil. Brake fluid absorbs water so no surprises it accelerates corrosion.
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Water injection is used for supplemental cooling in high performance engines. They will have good gas flow rates and be cramming the cylinders with air fuel mixture. It’s probably not so helpful in a low compression side valve engine that has poor gas flow by design. It may well help a car engine if it’s done at motorway speeds. But the good old “Italian turns up” does the same thing. Even better if you use a posh petrol like Shell ultimate whatever.
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My car is a 2007 Fiat with 112,000 miles. Ethanol has been in U.K. fuel for all of that time. The fuel consumption is the same now as it ever was. It has a knock sensor so runs better on high octane “super” fuels. Engines with no knock sensor do not benefit from high octane fuels. Water in the fuel will have an anti knock effect - water injection is used on some high power engines.
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How about a "liquid piston" engine. It swaps the rotor and stator shapes. A flat elipse rotor turns in a tri-lobe chamber that has a combustion bowl on the corners. It's solved most of the Wankel issues and is very efficient. https://liquidpiston.com/technology/how-it-works/ Who knows why we have not seen them on the market.
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@jusb1066 Big goods vehicles and mobile plant engines use ultrafine bypass filters. These take about 10% of the oil flows and scrub away the contaminants. This allows the various additives used in engine oils to last so long that oil changes are needed far less often. Normal top ups are enough. The cost benefit on car engines makes it better to simply change the oil when its depleted.
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@n325aej Lead was used to raise the octane number so cheap petrol could be used in high compression engines. Valve seat protection as a byproduct.
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Problem with any grease is it’s solid at room temperature not good got cold starts.
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I use Oregan chains but they absolutely will not deal with soil or other dirt. The cutting rate slows so much you just know it has to be sharpened. You now need to collect up all that sawdust and make some fire bricks.
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See if you can get a “liquid piston” rotary. It’s a daft name as the rotor is metal. It has three combustion chambers around a rounded triangle case. Rotor is egg shape.
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Try some chain saw oil thinned with white spirit. Apply and allow to weather for 6 months. Clean off a section with degreaser and sit for another 6 months. The cleaned area just starts to corrode. The untouched is still rust free.
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@deusexaethera Yamaha invented the varaible exhaust geometry "Power Valve" for their 250 and 350 twins Liquid Cooled "Elsie" twins. It's not really a valve as all it does is change when the exhaust port opens. Full up for high revs power and down for low revs torque. The inlets had reed valves which are atmospheric non return valves allowing more aggressive transfer port timing.
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@deusexaethera NSU used these on the 50cc Quickly moped engines. It's a decompressor to make starting it easier.
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Would the glues work as head gaskets WITH the bolts?
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Its stays fluid so can spin around the tyre and fill leaks as they happen.
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Castor oil will separate from gasoline and allegedly won’t mix with mineral based oils. I’m not convinced it won’t mix or even if that matters to an engine. The big issue with castor oil is when the gasoline has evaporated the oil polymerises and clogs the fuel system. It’s the same effect as linseed oil which is used in paints.
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