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spaceflight101
Rainman Ray's Repairs
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Comments by "spaceflight101" (@spaceflight1019) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.
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I still have the special socket needed to remove the bearing retainer for my 1977 F150 4x4...
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@1575murray Power stations do it with pumps, motors, generators, and turbines too.
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First rule of working on electrical systems: never, EVER work on ANYTHING hot unless it's absolutely necessary!
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Don't be surprised if you get a traction control fault when you do that. Fortunately, it will clear itself after a few miles of regular driving.
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Chlorinated stuff works great on spiders and rodents.
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They don't run for very long with a windowed block and oil pan.
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Here's a helpful hint if you're doing a job like this yourself: make sure that the steering wheel is centered and that the new steering components are centered when you assemble it. This will make life easier for the alignment tech. If you run a bricklayer string from the rear of the rear wheel to the front of the front wheel and all four touch points are straight on the string the alignment will be close enough to safely drive it to the alignment shop. I replaced the rack and pinion and tie rod ends on my 1988 Taurus and the alignment guy said that I had it pretty close.
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That will be the definition of a Bad Day!
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We liked to eat at the Pierside Grill in Fort Myers Beach. They have a webcam that was nice to look at when I'm not there. It took video of idiots swimming in the hurricane. It, along with the pier and the restaurant, were destroyed. They just updated their website today.
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@roadkillraker That's different. It means that while I don't agree with your viewpoint I respect your viewpoint. Out in the real world, you may have an idea on how to fix something that I've never done. Since you're spinning the wrenches, I'll sit back and see if your way works better than mine.
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Way better than "here, hold this wire while I crank it!"
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@lgninjalo Yep, if you've attempted to post non-YT links they remove them.
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@georgesalyer9074 When you're an indy or self-employed you have the latitude to do that, but dealers don't give that latitude. For example, part of the 60000 mile service on a Patriot is changing the transfer case oil and rear differential oil. The dealer wanted $350 for this, two hours at $140/hour plus oil plus disposal fees. I got out the ramps, tools, and drain pan and did it myself.
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I still have my metatarsal shield safety shoes from my steel mill days.
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Merch, as Yogurt taught us, it's all about the merchandise!
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And you never get rid of receipts. I've read horror stories about people being denied warranty repairs because the dealership "lost" their records suing and winning because they kept all of the receipts.
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Brain fade?
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I would have cleaned the filter with a brush and compressed air, verify that it's not restricted, and see if that fixes the problem. I can't tell you how many vacuum cleaners I've rescued from the trash by finding the hidden filters and cleaning them out.
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It all depends upon the kind of oil that you use. There are pure synthetic, semi-synthetic, and conventional oils. The change intervals for pure synthetic oils are much longer than the other oils. There are numerous sites devoted to motor oils. But, here are the facts... Combustion generates acidic byproducts that get past the piston rings and into the crankcase. Most of them are removed by the PCV, or Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. The remaining byproducts settle in the oil. Over time, the acids attack the cam and crankshaft bearings. This is the reason why you must change the oil on a time basis. The mileage basis is due to dirt and changes in the oil chemistry. If you pull the stick and can't see the markings, you should have changed the oil long ago.
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One of the smartest things ever done was to sell the strut/spring/bearing assembly as a complete unit. Not having to deal with a spring compressor is fantastic. All you have to deal with is rusty nuts and bolts, and you can replace a strut in an hour or so. The current price for my 2014 Patriot is $177.
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Too many people wanting to schedule Ray to work on their cars, most likely.
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@viplegaleducation1292 I can't say if Stellantis is still using the 2.4 engine or not, but I had read enough bad things about the CVT to stick with the six speed automatic. In theory it should be a bolt-in but there isn't enough interest in the Compass and Patriot models for someone to experiment with it.
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I agree. Rent pays for the fundamentals like a roof over your head.
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YouTube doesn't permit you to post any links to non-YT sites. It took me a while to learn that.
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In the last Just Rolled In one car had a coral snake in the radiator!
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Many times without bothering to see what the other "team members" are doing. A great example is having to drill holes in the inner fenders to replace the spark plugs.
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My car is the outside car. When the ambient temperature gets around 40F I fill the tires to 40 psi, 5psi over spec. Never had any problems.
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@polishhotdog933 Patience is a virtue. Patients are cash in the bank!
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You didn't drill a hole in the floor to drain the water out...? If all 4 switches are the same I would have swapped the front drivers side to the rear drivers side.
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Back before headlights depended on microprocessor controls we would turn them on, observe the brightness, then try to start the car. Bad batteries or flakey battery terminal connectors make the headlights go out.
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Spray the bleeders with PB, get a cup of joe, and use a six-point socket or box wrench. New bleeders are cheap, just dab the threads with nickel antiseize and you're good to go.
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@Dr_V in modern cars a mismatch in the wheel sizes will cause problems with the ABS and traction control systems. Changing all four wheels will cause inaccurate speedometer readings if the wheel and tire diameters are not identical to the factory's.
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Permatex makes a spray adhesive called Hi-Tack just for holding gaskets in place during reassembly.
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@stevewhite3424 I used to go to Fort Myers until last year. Florida is much better than Australia, but watch out for gators, and the no-see-ums.
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Often followed by "Hey y'all! Watch this!"
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Unless you've seen this before, and I have, replacing parts is an expensive learning curve. The first thing I would have done was to put a timing light on it and see if the timing advanced as the revs came up. The cause was rusted advance weight pivots. The cure was a little oil. The price was pizza and beer.
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@walterwhite2270 It wasn't a Jeep; it was a 1959 Bug that the owner said "If you can fix it you can have it." Those were the days.
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Old power station trick: one man runs the impact wrench and the other man taps on the nut end of the bolt with a hammer. The combination of the two usually gets it done
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The list of things it needs is much longer than the list of things it doesn't need.
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When the tranny died on my 1993 Dakota at 170K the shop owner asked me if it was the original and if it was, when did I have the oil changed. I had it done at 100K. He explained that material from the torque converter clutch eventually clogs the filter, starving the pump, and ruining the transmission.
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I used my motorcycle jack with a plank laid across it the last time I changed a fuel pump. No surprises.
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The rotors on my Jeep Patriots, a 2014 and a 2016, were so inferior that they needed replaced after only two years and less than 30,000 miles. The final straw was returning from vacation to find piles of rust on the garage floor where the 2016 had sat for two weeks. The big box store replacements still look new.
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@jimmychristensen498 They sold locking gas caps for that. Nowadays there's a plastic ball that prevents fuel spilling out in case of a rollover accident.
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You describe what must be done when changing the filter on an Evolution Sportster. The filter is mounted horizontally at the front of the engine and right above the front motor mount. I cut an old soda bottle and use that to catch the filter and oil.
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Back when cars were simple, there were two "bibles" for mechanics, the Chilton's and the Motor's manuals.
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@poppydogz Here in Pittsburgh, the programmer of several stations likes "Linger".
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I've found that you have to avoid having anything that may have a copyright attached to it show up in your video, lest YT flag it for a violation.
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It's Stellantis now, not Fiat.
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@throttlebottle5906 I have another hint, one that works well. First, apply your favorite penetrating oil. Give it a minute or two. Next, invert a can of canned air and spray the bleeder with the -40F blast. Then try to turn the fastener. Stubborn cases required gently tapping the fastener while applying torque. It worked more often than it didn't.
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@throttlebottle5906 I live near Pittsburgh and worked as a field service technician in industrial instruments and process controls from 1978 until 2021. I've seen my share of massively rusted steel, and have been able to disassemble a great percentage of them. But your point about replacing the calipers if they are that badly corroded is a good one, one that I've followed many times on my own vehicles.
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