Comments by "Mike Chiodetti" (@mikechiodetti4482) on "WeberAuto" channel.

The smoke test! LOL. Great way to test the system. I always remember many years ago a GM instructor in Burbank California told us this. "You guys have to understand. GM builds the part or unit with the smoke in. You guys come along and let the smoke out!" His humor helped to learn a lot about the system we were learning about at that time!
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Glad to see you back. Looking forward to your next videos!
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I never had training in automatic transmissions. I've read about them in manuals, but this one video has shown me what happens when the clutch housings are held. Do you have videos for the hydraulic including the filtration system, and the electrical including solenoids and the sensors? A different type of transmission is the one in my 2020 Toyota RAV4 with the 8 speed automatic transaxle. Do you have a video on that transaxle?
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The third generation is a better output flow with less rotational speed of MG1 and much more torque overall. Very good description!
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Thank you Professor Kelly. You make the info understandable and you're very detailed in your explanations. I hope to see more of your videos in the future.
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GREAT to see you professor! I know maybe 1% about a Tesla, so I'm learning from you. Thank you for this info and a great starting point. Without the low voltage starting point, the H.V. Contactors cannot engage, that is if they're like other EV's.
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Thank you for this video. When I worked on the older Prius's, I was only able to see what was "under the cover" one time. This Prius is definitely different. Thank you for the teardown and reassembly. Learned a lot from this one.
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Thank you professor. My 06 Nissan Frontier has 4WD (with 4 Low Range) and it's Shift-on-the-Fly up to about 65 MPH. When using 4 Wheel High, I shift it to that range at much lower than 65 and also at Zero MPH. It saves on wear and tear. Low Range requires engine idling, man trans in neutral, clutch pedal pushed all the way down, 4 Wheel High currently selected and vehicle speed at Zero MPH.
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Professor Kelly, THANKYOU for that explanation of the Ford Auto Trans Fluids. Your video's are always detailed, this one helped me understand what-the-heck they were doing back then. The 6 speed automatic truck trans was different. I can only imagine how big and complex a "manually" shifted 6 speed auto must have been! I remember in the early 50's, Chrysler vehicles having two types of.....I guess you could call them "semi automatics." One was a two speed column shift (two on the tree) with a clutch. You pushed in on the clutch to engage either forward gear or the reverse, then let it out slowly. When the shifter was in the up position, which would be 1st gear, you could shift into the lower position or 2nd gear without the clutch, although I saw people use the clutch for that shift change. Once you got moving and picked up speed, you momentarily let up on the throttle and the trans would give an audible "clunk" and that put it into 3 or the normal road gear. When you stopped, unless you went to neutral or shifted into reverse, you could keep the clutch out, in other words, you did not have to push in the clutch pedal. That was kinda neat. Later on, I was in a Chrysler product vehicle and noted the shift "selection" at the top of the shift handle on the steering column. It read, Park, Neutral, Drive, Low, Reverse. WOW I thought! It's one of those new automatic transmissions! My Dad said, "NO, this has a clutch also!" HUH? YUP! You used the clutch to come out of "PARK" and position the shifter in Drive or Reverse. Let the clutch out slowly and from that point on, unless you stopped to shift from Drive to Reverse, you didn't need to push the clutch pedal. As a young person, BACK THEN, (I was born in 1948) I had no idea how that worked. Later on as time went on and the separation of Automatic and Manual Transmissions became the "selection" as to what your vehicle would have, I quickly surmised how that older trans worked. "IT HAD to have a clutch AND a torque converter I thought!" Crazy as that sounds, I think I was right. At least it was used in the transmission you were describing. Anyway as the vehicles back then were "underpowered" compared to the Monsters we have today, It's kind of obvious those transmissions didn't have to be built to handle 600-1000 horse power and from about 700 to 1200 Foot Pounds of Torque. As to the reason why Ford waited 11 years to have their own automatic? I think Henry didn't want that transmission in his vehicles. He was old school with the Model "T" and took a long time for changes to be made in his vehicles. I remember one engineer, don't remember the company, but he had said after the Automatic came on the scene. "It's one of the worst transmissions ever (I believe the word was) foisted on the American Public!" Course back then, you had the infamous "slip and slide with a Powerglide" which was GM's 2 speed cast iron Powerglide. My parents 53 Chevrolet had that one. NO CLUTCH! My Mom was happy! They were known for some slippage in the torque converter, but hey! Gas was only about 20 cents a gallon, so who cares about gas mileage! And Smog Control? What the devil is that? Any way, I've bloviated long enough. I hope this helps you with your historical approach to Chrysler transmissions. Of course the best was the 727 3 speed automatic. TOUGH transmission! Until GM's Allison division came up with the 3000 and 4000 series transmissions and Ford came out with the I think it was the 6R120 or 6R140! Thank you again. Mike Chiodetti Retired Auto Electrician (and mechanic)
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I forgot to thank you for a MUCH MUCH BETTER than a shop manual description of how this system works!
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Professor Kelly, I'm glad to see you back and I hope you're doing well. You mentioned the vehicle in the shop does not have the fast DC charge unit/parts. What, in parts, programming and cost would it take to change this training vehicle over to the DC fast charge? When the latest-and-greatest Chevy Bolt cars are sold now is that DC fast charge included or is that a special option?
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My 2020 RAV4 has the 8 speed automatic. I've watched and downloaded the video that "The Car Care Nut" who is a certified Toyota/Lexus technician put out on You Tube. I also have a Diagnostic Tool that can monitor the trans fluid temp. The biggest takeaway that AMD did in the video was the fluid temp which is the whole reason for following the procedure. There is a manual without using the Diagnostic Tool, and it can be done to have the correct fluid level. This fluid drain must be done with a vehicle at ambient temperature for proper measurement. AMD (TCCN) recommends refilling the trans with the exact amount that was removed, THEN ADDING 1/2 (.5) quart more. Next perform the procedure he shows and he says the trans fluid temp must be between 90F and 110F. With that temp attained, the engine still running and trans in park, now the small fluid bolt is removed, but not the plastic tube, to allow the excess fluid to drain out until it becomes a trickle. Put the plug back in and torque it to spec and your done. There's access plastic that had to be removed, so reinstall all that and lower the vehicle down on all 4 wheels. He recommends driving the vehicle for a day or up to a week then check the fluid level to make sure it's not excessively overfilled. When I do my 2020 RAV4, this will be a very interesting procedure.
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I will stay with my regular 4WD transfer case. The AWD is confusing, but you rely on the ABS to stop the "open differential wheel spin" which then allows power to the non spinning axle, be it front or rear. The other problem with the AWD is tire circumference with the Torzen (spelling) center diff assembly. If one tire was older or somehow smaller in circumference it would cause problems in the drivetrain. Check out iATN in their older case studies. GM mini vans had this problem. Destroyed transfer cases and/or differentials would happen. By having the ABS slow the spinning tire, the non slipping axle would take over and the center diff xfer case would handle it.
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