Youtube comments of Mike Chiodetti (@mikechiodetti4482).

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  36. Fuel trims can throw you. For example. Watch when your LFT reads 12.5 and your SFT reads -10.5. This can confuse people, but actually, your TOTAL fuel trim is +2.0 or 2.0. The short trim is removing fuel, but the LFT is taking its time to reduce. I've seen this after a repair. The fix was to reset the fuel trims and watch. The engine has about 40K on it and the SFT reads from -7% to +7%, and it stays that way. There's other scenario's, and only by learning how SFT and LFT work with the AFR sensors is it understood. I saw one Ford V10 van that both banks LFT and SFT reading at +25% each for a combined TOTAL Fuel Trim of 50% each bank. This was at idle. As the throttle was opened slowly to 2000 RPM's, LFT's and SFT's settled down with LFT's approximately between 6 to 8% and SFT's approximately between -7 to +7%. At idle, the van shook so bad, I thought the ladders would fall from their roof racks. The cause was a tear in the PCV hose on the bottom of the hose near the port on the throttle body. Ford had an upgrade for this with a thicker hose material. With the the new hose installed, fuel trims came down, no more shaking and all was well in Ford land. The tear wasn't big, only about 1 inch long, but the engine heat and vacuum caused the tear to turn inward toward the inside of the hose. It was that thin! A tech learning about fuel trims needs to work with vehicles that are running good to get a baseline understanding of that system. Disconnect then reconnect a small vacuum hose and watch the readings. I had to learn fuel trims AND the Ford WDS diagnostic system we had before we got the IDS which I understand is still in use. Thankyou for this video.
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  153. I have a 2020 RAV4. Didn't know it had both fuel injection systems. I like the plastic under the front end. It keeps things cleaner. You can buy Mobil 1 0W-16 at Walmart. I changed the original oil and filter using Toyota oil and filter for the warranty. I think Toyota used Mobil 1 at the one year " First oil change." The actual first oil change was in May of last year. "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive!" Many things I've noticed in 15 months of ownership. One I like is put the key in the ignition (mine is the base unit, no hybrid or extra flashy stuff) and before you turn the key on, the fuel pump primes the system. You can hear it. I replaced the interior lighting from dull incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs. Much better at night. The electric P/S is so nice and smooth! No pump, hoses, fluid, rack valves or other problems! I put Weather Tech floor mats front and rear, also cargo mat with the drop down "bib" to protect the outside. Last item is the upper cargo cover over the rear cargo area. Keeps things "under cover." Fuel mileage is very good. I like the MPG gauge between the tach and speedo. You can keep the "right now" mileage high which helps at the gas pump. Surprisingly peppy engine, with good acceleration! Step into the gas, it takes off quickly! However let up quickly after stepping into it, there's a definite amount of lag time before the transmission shifts to a higher gear, so the engine is left at a higher RPM. It is a light weight unibody vehicle which means you hear the road and feel the bumps while driving. But OVERALL, I'm very impressed with the vehicle and like it a lot! And the SiriusXM radio is GREAT also!
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  250. Thankyou for doing this. You make it so anyone can understand the components and what they do. My hybrid experience was with the first and second gen Prius. We had an instructor that had us remove the battery packs and inverter/converters from two working Priuses with no problems. We took the covers off the battery packs he explained how to test the individual batteries and how each individual "cell" was 7.2 Volts "at that time." We learned how to clean the corrosion from the straps that connected the cells, what to torque them to after reinstalling them, how the small bolts were special that held the straps to the battery how each cell could be recharged, and even how a little problem came along after a while that caused a fuel mileage problem. Well, cleaning the straps, checking and replacing a bad cell (back then) followed by recharging brought the fuel mileage back to where it was supposed to be. Then the other group with the removed inverter/converter went over that with the instructor and both groups on that Prius reinstalled the inverter/converter, the battery pack and the safety plug. Once that was done, the vehicle had to start and not have any codes! Then we went to lunch. After lunch, we reversed positions and my group got to remove and learn about the inverter/converter by taking it apart, putting it back together and adding the coolant back into the reservoir for that part of the system. The vehicle had to start, not have codes, and we were done for that day. I THOROUGHLY ENJOYED THAT DAY IN THE SHOP WITH THOSE TWO PRIUSES! Several years later, one of our Prius's was in a wreck, I got to change engine coolant hoses, the radiator and other parts. Yes, I removed the inverter/converter, replaced several small coolant hoses under that unit, put it back together and since the Body shop had done their work, I finished the car, got it going and no codes. I learned two things about that car. How to keep the transmission from going into park so the vehicle could be moved around with the engine off and keyfob removed, by removing a relay in the underhood fuse/relay box thanks to Carolyn who worked on Priuses in a different part of California and was a member of iATN like me. The second item was the early hybrids did not like to sit long especially in the Body Shop and sometimes would not start even with a full tank of gas. Seems the float in the tank would sink. A quick tip was to shake the back of the car from side to side and the float would regain its "floatability!" Then it started! Other than a couple small battery changes, I didn't do much maintenance to the other Priuses that were in our City fleet.
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  252. I hope this isn't to long. 2020 RAV4......Base Model. Key goes into ign lock, turn to start, foot on Brake Pedal, off you go. About the ign key and lock......Base Model. When you insert the key all the way, the intank fuel pump is turned on BEFORE the ign switch makes it to the On/Start position. I LIKE THAT. The fuel system is primed BEFORE the engine is cranked. I'll bet that helps the High Pressure Fuel System so there's no air or low pressure in that system. EXCELLENT IDEA! Lane tracing. It's off. Reminds me of being in the flight deck of a C130! It attempts to keep the vehicle moving back and forth in the lane. Police could say, "He's Drunk!" Automated Cruise Control......It's a helpful cruise control that puts the brakes and brake lights on when approaching a slower vehicle. Just put your foot into the gas and change lanes. The car has that great 8 speed automatic......and it uses them all! Great on economy! However. When passing, downshifting happens normally, but when you let up, the trans stays in that lower gear and takes time to upshift! Electric Parking Brake......Base Model. Come to a stop, turn the ign switch one notch to turn off the engine. Now you can put the parking brake on then put the trans into park or Neutral if your unloading passengers. Love that HOLD button! Brakes stay on and so do the brake lights! NICE! When ready to go, put foot on and push Brake Pedal, push HOLD button once and off you go! Simple! Overall IT'S A GREAT CAR! I added Weather Tech floor mats to help keep the car stay cleaner inside. They're well worth the cost. Thank you for this video.
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  285. Professor Kelly, THANKYOU for that explanation of the Ford Auto Trans Fluids. Your video's are always detailed, this one helped me understand what-the-heck they were doing back then. The 6 speed automatic truck trans was different. I can only imagine how big and complex a "manually" shifted 6 speed auto must have been! I remember in the early 50's, Chrysler vehicles having two types of.....I guess you could call them "semi automatics." One was a two speed column shift (two on the tree) with a clutch. You pushed in on the clutch to engage either forward gear or the reverse, then let it out slowly. When the shifter was in the up position, which would be 1st gear, you could shift into the lower position or 2nd gear without the clutch, although I saw people use the clutch for that shift change. Once you got moving and picked up speed, you momentarily let up on the throttle and the trans would give an audible "clunk" and that put it into 3 or the normal road gear. When you stopped, unless you went to neutral or shifted into reverse, you could keep the clutch out, in other words, you did not have to push in the clutch pedal. That was kinda neat. Later on, I was in a Chrysler product vehicle and noted the shift "selection" at the top of the shift handle on the steering column. It read, Park, Neutral, Drive, Low, Reverse. WOW I thought! It's one of those new automatic transmissions! My Dad said, "NO, this has a clutch also!" HUH? YUP! You used the clutch to come out of "PARK" and position the shifter in Drive or Reverse. Let the clutch out slowly and from that point on, unless you stopped to shift from Drive to Reverse, you didn't need to push the clutch pedal. As a young person, BACK THEN, (I was born in 1948) I had no idea how that worked. Later on as time went on and the separation of Automatic and Manual Transmissions became the "selection" as to what your vehicle would have, I quickly surmised how that older trans worked. "IT HAD to have a clutch AND a torque converter I thought!" Crazy as that sounds, I think I was right. At least it was used in the transmission you were describing. Anyway as the vehicles back then were "underpowered" compared to the Monsters we have today, It's kind of obvious those transmissions didn't have to be built to handle 600-1000 horse power and from about 700 to 1200 Foot Pounds of Torque. As to the reason why Ford waited 11 years to have their own automatic? I think Henry didn't want that transmission in his vehicles. He was old school with the Model "T" and took a long time for changes to be made in his vehicles. I remember one engineer, don't remember the company, but he had said after the Automatic came on the scene. "It's one of the worst transmissions ever (I believe the word was) foisted on the American Public!" Course back then, you had the infamous "slip and slide with a Powerglide" which was GM's 2 speed cast iron Powerglide. My parents 53 Chevrolet had that one. NO CLUTCH! My Mom was happy! They were known for some slippage in the torque converter, but hey! Gas was only about 20 cents a gallon, so who cares about gas mileage! And Smog Control? What the devil is that? Any way, I've bloviated long enough. I hope this helps you with your historical approach to Chrysler transmissions. Of course the best was the 727 3 speed automatic. TOUGH transmission! Until GM's Allison division came up with the 3000 and 4000 series transmissions and Ford came out with the I think it was the 6R120 or 6R140! Thank you again. Mike Chiodetti Retired Auto Electrician (and mechanic)
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  372. When I got my 2020 RAV4 "Base Model" I was amazed at what was now called a "Base Model." Ten years ago this would have been at or near top of the line car. I was almost 16 1/2 in Feb 1965 when I got my Driver's License in Massachusetts. Believe me, I've seen Many Changes! Some good, some not so good. Lately the not so good has escaladed to the point many of these so called premium models are useless for most people. My base model has at least one or two features and safety items I Don't Use....Period! It does have a Key-In-The-Ignition STANDARD feature I've known about since before 1965! Why Mess With Success? Mandatory Key Fobs near a Push Button Switch on the dash? When the fob's battery goes dead, Good Luck! We had ignition key AND push button start before 1965. That Worked Too! But NO Computer (Will allow this) start control. I like manual parking brake handles or levers next to the driver. My 06 Nissan Frontier V6 with 6 speed manual shift, 4 wheel drive and the "hand brake!" It's still a great vehicle! Don't get me wrong, I really like my 8 speed automatic 2020 RAV 4! The 8 speed was one of the reason's I bought it! No mushy CVT. Lane Tracing...turned it off! Radar cruise control....I like cruise control. Radar assist?....Nope! Electric Power Assist Steering....I've driven vehicles without any power assist steering. Big trucks too! I've driven many vehicles with what we knew as power steering. Nothing wrong with those until the engine stopped, then it was a little more difficult. Remains to be seen about electric. We really don't need a lot of the new stuff. The extra weight and complexity only burns more gas, costs more money to buy and maintain, and heaven help when all those air bags all blow in a wreck! Does the word TOTALED mean anything to you?
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  436. Great review, but this one definitely NOT for me. Don't want the hybrid, don't like the third row seat period, don't like the instrument cluster, don't like the pushbutton in the back for the glass. THAT'S gonna be a problem especially with salt and brine. The plastic in the front grille and lower deflector gotta go! NOT good for this vehicle! I like the swirling cylinder design, my "20" RAV4 A25A engine has it, GREAT DESIGN. Oil Pump in front cover DEFINITELY a GREAT design! My 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6 has the three timing chains and their tensioners. I sincerely hope Toyota DID NOT have the two small chain tensioners pushing up against the bottom of the two small timing chains! EXTREMELY BAD design. The "plastic" end that rubs against the bottom of the timing chains wears down, then the metal to metal starts, then the sickening whine during acceleration leads to small particles bonding to the covers and some winding up in the oil pan. The Lexus LS400 had the twin MAF's if memory serves me which I believe is a great idea as is the two air filters. The electrical clutch for the engine fan......to be determined later. Front end suspension, 4WD and 10 speed Trans make for a very strong powertrain. Rear suspension well built, the one piece rear diff housing and axle tubes housing definitely the look and strength of larger truck rear differentials. THAT should go the distance and last a long time! So while I wouldn't buy a hybrid unit, if it were non hybrid and I needed the power and comfort, this would make for a good buy. I hope it also has a very good warranty like 10 years/100,000 miles for powertrain and electronics.
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  534.  @TheCarCareNut  I want to thank you for the coolant tech tips and the throttle holder. I bought one like you had on the Amazon entry and IT WORKED GREAT! Being that the air temp was over 90 last Wednesday following your coolant procedure with the engine fan didn't take long. If this was two months ago, it would have taken longer for the engine fan to come on but I would have appreciated the hot air coming from the fan. Anyway on the fan's 2nd cycle the engine temp stayed at 194 to 196 until I let the engine idle. Still had some coolant in the funnel (similar to yours). Shut off the engine and about 40 minutes later the coolant had dropped enough so removing the funnel and and adapters resulted in no coolant loss. One thing that helps to lower the coolant a little more quickly for many vehicles with the engine off and rad cap off is to gently rock the vehicle in the front side to side. It's not going to go down quickly, but it does help a little. Add a good size fan in front of the vehicle blowing through the condenser and radiator with the engine off with help to lower the coolant level in the radiator. Reinstalled the radiator cap, added coolant slightly over the FULL or MAX mark in the overflow container. Next morning the level was at the normal max or full mark. So that's 1. L.O.F., 2. Brake fluid system flush, now with clean fluid, and 3. Coolant drain/refill. I have the transaxle fluid for it, but jury duty is keeping me away from Periodic Maintenance for the RAV4 and my Nissan Frontier for a while. Thank You again for the Tech Tips, they're like Gold!
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  598. My 06 Frontier with the 4.0L V6 has the same water pump. Mine has 3 timing chains with the main one operating the water pump. The oil pump is inside in the upper oil pan area. That coolant pipe on the passenger's side is like mine which is anodized with a similar upper radiator hose from the pipe to the radiator. Mine is a 6 Speed Manual Trans and a similar looking transfer case. The xfer case motor is different on mine. Instead of a wrench/socket head xfer case drain plug, mine has a square hole which a 3/8" extension fits nicely. The rear differential is the same on my 06. It's a Dana 44 type differential. Fuel tank, canister, towing receiver, spare tire on mine are very similar to the "2025." Rear brakes, parking brake and rear ABS sensors look the same as the new one. Front diff is similar to the new truck and directly connected to the front wheels. No locks to disconnect or connect for 4WD operation. When I changed the two exhaust timing chain tensioners, the main timing chain's tensioner, the three chains, the water pump, the guides and the front timing cover's crank seal. The timing chain's tensioners had their plastic part worn down from the timing chain's bottom rubbing on the plastic cushion. So while I was in there, with close 100,000 miles on the vehicle, I decided to do the job now, to eliminate the problem later. The hardest part of the job was the cleaning of the Nissan 3Bond adhesive that holds the front and rear timing covers together. Overall I still have and really like my 06 Nissan Frontier. Of course, I also really like my 2020 RAV4! Thank you for this video.
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