Youtube comments of Mike Chiodetti (@mikechiodetti4482).
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"Check the tires once a month." Right! Like anyone does that. I use my MaxiTPMS TS401 from time to time to check my 2020 RAV4 and my 06 Nissan Frontier. Yes I've replaced the 4 sensors in the 06 Frontier. Just before I retired April 1, 2016, the left front sensor would turn on the light. Usually on a Saturday morning when it was cool/cold outside. Borrowed the shop tester on Monday, sensor read normal, so I'd reset the system. This happened twice. so, I adjusted all 4 tires to read 40 PSI, and all 4 sensors read about 2 PSI lower. Borrowed the tester again on a Friday. Sat morning I gauge checked the tire pressure. Still at 40 PSI. Turn on ignition switch and BOOM! Light stayed on. Three sensors read about 2 PSI lower than gauge, left front read 5 PSI lower than gauge. Cool morning, "intermittent problem," 10 year old vehicle and it's TPM sensors. One new Nissan sensor, all's well in Nissan land. Two weeks later, same problem. Used my previous procedure, right front's bad. Bought 3 new Nissan sensors, no more problems. It's been almost 5 years now, still working well. Thanks for your videos.
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My 2020 RAV4 gets a lot of "around town" driving. Then I put it on the freeway, cruise control on, 70 mph for several miles, then drive it back at the same speed. Not only the combustion chambers, but the PCV system, engine oil, trans fluid and more get good and hot and helps to eliminate the moisture that gets into those fluids. The next time it's driven, it's like a young kid full of energy instead of an old person who can't move well. Also, that very slight tip-in hesitation is gone! The vehicle has "less than" 9000 miles. Not a typo! And yes I'm retired 6 years now but still work on my own vehicles. I may do overkill on preventative maintenance, but the proof is in the vehicles operation. They run great! More important. "You take care of and maintain your vehicle, it'll take care of you!"
Thank you for this video. Hope the new building is coming along well!
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Fuel trims can throw you. For example. Watch when your LFT reads 12.5 and your SFT reads -10.5. This can confuse people, but actually, your TOTAL fuel trim is +2.0 or 2.0. The short trim is removing fuel, but the LFT is taking its time to reduce. I've seen this after a repair. The fix was to reset the fuel trims and watch. The engine has about 40K on it and the SFT reads from -7% to +7%, and it stays that way. There's other scenario's, and only by learning how SFT and LFT work with the AFR sensors is it understood. I saw one Ford V10 van that both banks LFT and SFT reading at +25% each for a combined TOTAL Fuel Trim of 50% each bank. This was at idle. As the throttle was opened slowly to 2000 RPM's, LFT's and SFT's settled down with LFT's approximately between 6 to 8% and SFT's approximately between -7 to +7%. At idle, the van shook so bad, I thought the ladders would fall from their roof racks. The cause was a tear in the PCV hose on the bottom of the hose near the port on the throttle body. Ford had an upgrade for this with a thicker hose material. With the the new hose installed, fuel trims came down, no more shaking and all was well in Ford land. The tear wasn't big, only about 1 inch long, but the engine heat and vacuum caused the tear to turn inward toward the inside of the hose. It was that thin! A tech learning about fuel trims needs to work with vehicles that are running good to get a baseline understanding of that system. Disconnect then reconnect a small vacuum hose and watch the readings. I had to learn fuel trims AND the Ford WDS diagnostic system we had before we got the IDS which I understand is still in use. Thankyou for this video.
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I have a Matco code reader, an Actron code reader and a little more, and a Matco MaxMe diagnostic tool.
This XTool looks GREAT! It obviously looks like it will do much more than the MaxMe.
The two code readers I have were used for monitor checks and any pending, current or history codes back when I was smog testing our fleet vehicles. That worked out great back then. This machine shows how far these Android Diagnostic Tools have come.
Also it's much less expensive than Snap On, Matco, Mac, Autel, Bosch and others. What kind of customer service do they have if there's a problem with the tester? What kind of warranty do they have for the tester?
With yearly updates at $99.00 after the three year free updates, THAT'S CHEAP! Hopefully that covers Domestic, Asian and European.
TPMS has reset only, and you need a tester like Bartec to test the sensors.
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I have removed dash assemblies from Fords, GM's, Kia, and Nissan, but not on Toyota's.
When you remove what is needed to get to the level AMD is at, you sit back and look at it, sometimes shaking your head.
When I was finishing a Ford Truck at work, someone asked me, "would you do it again?" To which I said, "Yes....Just not tomorrow or next week!"
I learned to take LOTS of pictures during teardown, and I used Green (body shop type) masking tape to identify which connectors plugged into each other and what hardware and other fasteners held assemblies together. Looks like a lot of work during teardown, made life MUCH easier during reassembly.
Thank you for this video.
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My 06 Frontier needed a new recirc motor. Out came the entire dash. While out, I replaced the recirc motor, air mix (hot/cold)motor, cleaned the reason why the recirc door was binding, made sure other doors operated smoothly and reassembled everything. I used the green masking tape method. Wrap the tape around screws and ID their location. Same for nuts, other hardware and both sides of the electrical connectors. Takes longer, saves time and patience with reassembly.
Same with my wife's 06 Sorento. The Kia also got a new evaporator and heater core.
Both were completed at home in my garage.
I've done several Ford trucks and one Escort at work in the past. No one else in the shop wanted to do them. They all took time.
Except for one Ford Truck, all the other vehicles worked as designed with no problems on startup. That truck had a bad A/C compressor unknown to me. Yes I fixed it.
Green tape, take your time, replace parts in those assemblies that WILL break soon.
Why change working parts? "I do the job ONCE, so I don't have to do it over or again!"
Thank you AMD for this video.
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I have a 2020 RAV4. Didn't know it had both fuel injection systems. I like the plastic under the front end. It keeps things cleaner. You can buy Mobil 1 0W-16 at Walmart. I changed the original oil and filter using Toyota oil and filter for the warranty. I think Toyota used Mobil 1 at the one year " First oil change." The actual first oil change was in May of last year. "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive!"
Many things I've noticed in 15 months of ownership. One I like is put the key in the ignition (mine is the base unit, no hybrid or extra flashy stuff) and before you turn the key on, the fuel pump primes the system. You can hear it. I replaced the interior lighting from dull incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs. Much better at night. The electric P/S is so nice and smooth! No pump, hoses, fluid, rack valves or other problems! I put Weather Tech floor mats front and rear, also cargo mat with the drop down "bib" to protect the outside. Last item is the upper cargo cover over the rear cargo area. Keeps things "under cover." Fuel mileage is very good. I like the MPG gauge between the tach and speedo. You can keep the "right now" mileage high which helps at the gas pump.
Surprisingly peppy engine, with good acceleration! Step into the gas, it takes off quickly! However let up quickly after stepping into it, there's a definite amount of lag time before the transmission shifts to a higher gear, so the engine is left at a higher RPM. It is a light weight unibody vehicle which means you hear the road and feel the bumps while driving. But OVERALL, I'm very impressed with the vehicle and like it a lot! And the SiriusXM radio is GREAT also!
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Thankyou for the info. How often did you wash the car especially the undercarriage to remove the snow/salt/sand to prevent the car from turning into a 5 year vehicle with undercarriage, frame and other panels, wheels, brakes, and steering components being massively corroded? I agree about charging at the end of your driving day instead of an early morning, non cooperative cold battery, going through a very cold charge. That's hard on a battery. While I like to drive fast, you probably would have had a better range if you kept the speed at 65 or 70 in the Summer and DEFINITELY slower on those snow and ice covered roads! In the winter on slick roads, speed is not of the essence! Also, trusting and testing the vehicle's safety equipment is not something you'd want to do, for your sake, the people around you, and you don't want to use up the cat's nine lives!
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AMD is so right! We had guys at work that had Snap On this, Mac that, and I have the older Craftsman tools which served me well! Now Craftsman is all from China.....good luck!
Gear Wrench make good tools, but don't use that ratchet wrench when breaking loose a fastener. The ratchet is designed to help quickly remove a nut or bolt.
Short or shallow sockets are good but deep sockets are great! My favorites are deep, 6 point, impact sockets. Sometimes you'll need 12 point sockets. Impact wobbly sockets have proved to me their worth MANY TIMES!
Like AMD says, buy individual sockets, not a set of 12, unless you really need them, or there's a once a year sale on them. Sometimes tool trucks will do that just to lower their inventory.
There's a lot more to tools, more than can be covered here.
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Being in California we don't normally get downpour rain however, one year we got way over our normal amount and sure enough, one of the 2004 F150's with the 4.6 got the top of the intake and all 8 plugs/coils bathed in water.
Barely ran, MIL light on, shaking like crazy.
Used my long tube air gun to clean out all the "wells" after removing all the coils.
Removed and checked the plugs, they were worn, made sure no moisture got in the combustion chambers using the long tube blow gun, installed new plugs, coils, air filter (it was dirty) cleaned the MAF sensor, changed the engine oil and filter (miles and time) and fired it up. Ran great. Reset the computer memory, road test and I knew the MIL would come back on and yes it did. All the misfiring dumped raw fuel into old cats (truck had over 150,000 odometer miles). So, new cats, new front and rear 02 sensors, another road test, truck ran like a dream for many, many more miles.
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Thankyou for doing this. You make it so anyone can understand the components and what they do. My hybrid experience was with the first and second gen Prius. We had an instructor that had us remove the battery packs and inverter/converters from two working Priuses with no problems. We took the covers off the battery packs he explained how to test the individual batteries and how each individual "cell" was 7.2 Volts "at that time." We learned how to clean the corrosion from the straps that connected the cells, what to torque them to after reinstalling them, how the small bolts were special that held the straps to the battery how each cell could be recharged, and even how a little problem came along after a while that caused a fuel mileage problem. Well, cleaning the straps, checking and replacing a bad cell (back then) followed by recharging brought the fuel mileage back to where it was supposed to be. Then the other group with the removed inverter/converter went over that with the instructor and both groups on that Prius reinstalled the inverter/converter, the battery pack and the safety plug. Once that was done, the vehicle had to start and not have any codes! Then we went to lunch. After lunch, we reversed positions and my group got to remove and learn about the inverter/converter by taking it apart, putting it back together and adding the coolant back into the reservoir for that part of the system. The vehicle had to start, not have codes, and we were done for that day. I THOROUGHLY ENJOYED THAT DAY IN THE SHOP WITH THOSE TWO PRIUSES! Several years later, one of our Prius's was in a wreck, I got to change engine coolant hoses, the radiator and other parts. Yes, I removed the inverter/converter, replaced several small coolant hoses under that unit, put it back together and since the Body shop had done their work, I finished the car, got it going and no codes.
I learned two things about that car. How to keep the transmission from going into park so the vehicle could be moved around with the engine off and keyfob removed, by removing a relay in the underhood fuse/relay box thanks to Carolyn who worked on Priuses in a different part of California and was a member of iATN like me. The second item was the early hybrids did not like to sit long especially in the Body Shop and sometimes would not start even with a full tank of gas. Seems the float in the tank would sink. A quick tip was to shake the back of the car from side to side and the float would regain its "floatability!" Then it started! Other than a couple small battery changes, I didn't do much maintenance to the other Priuses that were in our City fleet.
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For training on a Prius, the instructor separated our group into two groups. Before Lunch, one group made safe and removed the battery pack from the vehicle. The other group made safe and removed the Inverter Assembly from the same vehicle. The instructor removed the battery covers and removed one of the cells. Then he removed the Inverter cover. He then explained what went on inside. Then we put the covers back on, reinstalled the Inverter and Battery pack. We then verified the vehicle started, ran, and no codes were present. After lunch, the groups reversed their positions on the second vehicle, removing the battery pack and inverter assembly. Again battery covers and inverter cover were removed, parts identified, reassembled, reinstalled, vehicle started, and no codes. Time in the shop on two vehicles including lunch hour, 6 hours. Time in class room, 1 hour. MY KIND OF TRAINING!
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I hope this isn't to long.
2020 RAV4......Base Model. Key goes into ign lock, turn to start, foot on Brake Pedal, off you go.
About the ign key and lock......Base Model. When you insert the key all the way, the intank fuel pump is turned on BEFORE the ign switch makes it to the On/Start position. I LIKE THAT. The fuel system is primed BEFORE the engine is cranked. I'll bet that helps the High Pressure Fuel System so there's no air or low pressure in that system. EXCELLENT IDEA!
Lane tracing. It's off. Reminds me of being in the flight deck of a C130!
It attempts to keep the vehicle moving back and forth in the lane. Police could say, "He's Drunk!"
Automated Cruise Control......It's a helpful cruise control that puts the brakes and brake lights on when approaching a slower vehicle. Just put your foot into the gas and change lanes.
The car has that great 8 speed automatic......and it uses them all! Great on economy!
However. When passing, downshifting happens normally, but when you let up, the trans stays in that lower gear and takes time to upshift!
Electric Parking Brake......Base Model.
Come to a stop, turn the ign switch one notch to turn off the engine. Now you can put the parking brake on then put the trans into park or Neutral if your unloading passengers.
Love that HOLD button! Brakes stay on and so do the brake lights! NICE!
When ready to go, put foot on and push Brake Pedal, push HOLD button once and off you go! Simple!
Overall IT'S A GREAT CAR!
I added Weather Tech floor mats to help keep the car stay cleaner inside. They're well worth the cost.
Thank you for this video.
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Professor Kelly, THANKYOU for that explanation of the Ford Auto Trans Fluids. Your video's are always detailed, this one helped me understand what-the-heck they were doing back then. The 6 speed automatic truck trans was different. I can only imagine how big and complex a "manually" shifted 6 speed auto must have been! I remember in the early 50's, Chrysler vehicles having two types of.....I guess you could call them "semi automatics." One was a two speed column shift (two on the tree) with a clutch. You pushed in on the clutch to engage either forward gear or the reverse, then let it out slowly. When the shifter was in the up position, which would be 1st gear, you could shift into the lower position or 2nd gear without the clutch, although I saw people use the clutch for that shift change. Once you got moving and picked up speed, you momentarily let up on the throttle and the trans would give an audible "clunk" and that put it into 3 or the normal road gear. When you stopped, unless you went to neutral or shifted into reverse, you could keep the clutch out, in other words, you did not have to push in the clutch pedal. That was kinda neat.
Later on, I was in a Chrysler product vehicle and noted the shift "selection" at the top of the shift handle on the steering column. It read, Park, Neutral, Drive, Low, Reverse. WOW I thought! It's one of those new automatic transmissions! My Dad said, "NO, this has a clutch also!" HUH? YUP! You used the clutch to come out of "PARK" and position the shifter in Drive or Reverse. Let the clutch out slowly and from that point on, unless you stopped to shift from Drive to Reverse, you didn't need to push the clutch pedal. As a young person, BACK THEN, (I was born in 1948) I had no idea how that worked. Later on as time went on and the separation of Automatic and Manual Transmissions became the "selection" as to what your vehicle would have, I quickly surmised how that older trans worked. "IT HAD to have a clutch AND a torque converter I thought!" Crazy as that sounds, I think I was right. At least it was used in the transmission you were describing. Anyway as the vehicles back then were "underpowered" compared to the Monsters we have today, It's kind of obvious those transmissions didn't have to be built to handle 600-1000 horse power and from about 700 to 1200 Foot Pounds of Torque. As to the reason why Ford waited 11 years to have their own automatic? I think Henry didn't want that transmission in his vehicles. He was old school with the Model "T" and took a long time for changes to be made in his vehicles. I remember one engineer, don't remember the company, but he had said after the Automatic came on the scene. "It's one of the worst transmissions ever (I believe the word was) foisted on the American Public!" Course back then, you had the infamous "slip and slide with a Powerglide" which was GM's 2 speed cast iron Powerglide. My parents 53 Chevrolet had that one. NO CLUTCH! My Mom was happy! They were known for some slippage in the torque converter, but hey! Gas was only about 20 cents a gallon, so who cares about gas mileage! And Smog Control? What the devil is that? Any way, I've bloviated long enough. I hope this helps you with your historical approach to Chrysler transmissions. Of course the best was the 727 3 speed automatic. TOUGH transmission! Until GM's Allison division came up with the 3000 and 4000 series transmissions and Ford came out with the I think it was the 6R120 or 6R140!
Thank you again.
Mike Chiodetti
Retired Auto Electrician (and mechanic)
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Ya, I know about the burned intake manifold. I worked in a City (of L.A.) Fleet Shop, that our night shift had installed a new from Ford 5.4L 3 valve long block in a 2005 Expedition, because the old engine had one of the intake valve's stick open, allowing lots of hot gases and flames nearly destroy that part of the manifold. Not only that, but during the install the very small wiring harness that went to the IMRC stepper motor was damaged. So no electrical input or power to the motor, and I'm sure you know where THAT motor was located! Plus the night shift did NOT replace the intake manifold! The IMRC system did NOT work, power was down when accelerating. This is where I was called in as the day shift auto electrician. What a learning curve that was ! ! !
Yes I ordered the new intake manifold, the IMRC motor (didn't know it's condition) all the gaskets, coolant, etc, and THEN I had to rebuild the wiring harness for the IMRC motor to PCM connection.
THANK GOD for the Ford IDS!
I learned along the way how to manually test the IMRC electrically and monitor the PCM's control and monitor operation while driving.
Taking the vehicle for its final test drive coming out on to the street, giving it full beans (throttle) from a stop put a smile on my face! The power was GREAT, and even with the positraction rear end, you had to hold on tight! What a ride ! ! !
My apology for the long story, your burnt manifold brought up that memory!
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6 words. "OIL IS CHEAP, ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE ! ! !"
MY 2020 RAV4 has less than 16,000 miles at the odometer. Every 6 months or less, the oil and oil filter are changed, PERIOD!
I use Mobil 1 0W-16 and a Toyota oil filter.
Seeing the wear in that engine is a crime, there's no excuse for that!
"I can't afford the oil changes."
But you afford to smoke and/or drink. I not being judgmental. My belief is any new vehicle owner should go through a short training session BEFORE taking ownership of a new vehicle and learn the importance of how to and when to change, not only the engine oil and filter but also the engine coolant, vehicle brake fluid and transmission fluid be it automatic or manual. My RAV4 is waiting for me to change the ATF, but the coolant thanks to the knowledge of TCCN and the brake fluid have been changed by me due to time, not mileage. I don't like surprises and "if you take care of your vehicle it will take care of you!"
I apologize for this long reply, just trying to help people keep their vehicles running!
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Great review, but this one definitely NOT for me. Don't want the hybrid, don't like the third row seat period, don't like the instrument cluster, don't like the pushbutton in the back for the glass. THAT'S gonna be a problem especially with salt and brine. The plastic in the front grille and lower deflector gotta go! NOT good for this vehicle!
I like the swirling cylinder design, my "20" RAV4 A25A engine has it, GREAT DESIGN. Oil Pump in front cover DEFINITELY a GREAT design! My 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6 has the three timing chains and their tensioners. I sincerely hope Toyota DID NOT have the two small chain tensioners pushing up against the bottom of the two small timing chains! EXTREMELY BAD design. The "plastic" end that rubs against the bottom of the timing chains wears down, then the metal to metal starts, then the sickening whine during acceleration leads to small particles bonding to the covers and some winding up in the oil pan. The Lexus LS400 had the twin MAF's if memory serves me which I believe is a great idea as is the two air filters. The electrical clutch for the engine fan......to be determined later. Front end suspension, 4WD and 10 speed Trans make for a very strong powertrain. Rear suspension well built, the one piece rear diff housing and axle tubes housing definitely the look and strength of larger truck rear differentials. THAT should go the distance and last a long time!
So while I wouldn't buy a hybrid unit, if it were non hybrid and I needed the power and comfort, this would make for a good buy.
I hope it also has a very good warranty like 10 years/100,000 miles for powertrain and electronics.
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INVEST IN YOURSELF! EDUCATION! TRAINING! TRAINING! TRAINING!
I'd like a "list" of the tools needed for any (except body work) repairs on a 2020 RAV4, which just turned 12000 miles tonight on my way to church. It runs great, I just want to know what special tools Toyota recommends for any (except body work) repairs.
Ahmad, you brought back memories while going through your "tool storage cabinet" as they call it now! Thankyou.
To new techs. When your in school, they are gonna tell you how they can help you "save" money buying tools while going to school.
IF you want a $60,000 to $80,000 or MORE mortgage before you even start working in the real world, that's what will happen if you go "Hog Wild" buying every tool these tool trucks have on them!
I used to buy what I needed, when I needed it.
You do need basic wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets, & socket wrenches. When you start working then buy all the special tools and equipment you'll need.
It worked for me, hopefully it'll work for you!
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I have a 6 speed manual trans in a 4.0 Liter Nissan Frontier. I have "skipped" gears MANY TIMES since I bought it in 2006 and with over 100,000 miles, it still has the original "non-slipping" clutch! Downshifting is a learning curve. At first, go with a closer gear you are now in, the vehicle will let you know if its not enough. Making a turn, if I'm below a certain speed, I know I can put the trans in neutral as I'm slowing down, let out the clutch, rev the engine up over a certain RPM, such as just over or around 2500, push in the clutch, gear down and let out the clutch. If I've done it right, the engine speed will match vehicle speed for that gear. If I've reved to much, the engine speed will be to high for the vehicle's speed, and there will be a slight "kick" forward. The clutch "disc" is the part that engages the transmission input shaft and the clutch pressure plate is mounted to the engine flywheel. The disc has "several" springs in it to cushion the transfer from the engine to the transmission to eliminate that "JOLT" that can happen with a person new to a clutch.
In all my vehicles that had manual transmissions, I've never damaged or destroyed a clutch. Have respect for the vehicle and its equipment, so it will take you where you want to go!
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"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" OR...."If it ain't broke, let the government take it over, sit back, watch the fiasco as all the problems happen including the millions and millions of dollars thrown at it to "fix" the government installed problems!"
Chevy Cavalier. I didn't know that Toyota was making that car. WHY? And WHAT WENT WRONG? Was the American public being punished for some reason?
In the L.A. Dept of Water & Power we had some 1996 Cavaliers. The DWP finally got rid of those in the early 2000's. THANK YOU GOD!
Well, I'm glad I waited until 2020 to buy my RAV4. It doesn't have many miles on it but with the exception of the original 12 Volt battery going out in 2022, it's been a dream to own. With the exception of the windshield washer fluid, there are 4 fluids (engine oil, transaxle fluid, engine coolant and brake fluid) that need replacing. The transaxle fluid will be done in a month or so, according to Ahmed's instruction. The rest I've done, it's that easy. Engine oil is every 6 months, we don't drive as much as before retirement.
Thank you Ahmed!
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I like my 2020 RAV4. It's the Base model. Dependable, great economy, great sound system, fun to drive, and gets its oil changed EVERY 6 MONTHS, cause being retired for me means not driving a lot. However I do frequently drive it on the freeway and the more it's driven on the freeway, the better it runs!
On freeway hills, the 8 speed transmission does "hunt" for the best gear. Experience has taught me, watch the RPM, move the shifter to keep it the best gear so it won't be going up-down-up-down. I really like the eight speed!
Overall, this car is a real likeable car!
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I've had several dash assemblies both at home on my own and at work before retirement in 2016.
When asked, "Would you do this again?" I've always said "Yes......but not tomorrow!"
Also, whenever a dash is removed, by all means replace the HVAC door motors....ALL OF THEM! Unless you can get to them without dash removal, replace them. The recirc was the one making the loud tick, tick, tick, tick noise and yes it was between the HVAC box and the bulkhead/firewall. The temp motor was actually worse cause you couldn't see or touch it
The only one accessible and so far still works good is the (Air) directional flow motor.
That was my 06 Nissan Frontier when I replaced the motors and fixed the recirc/fresh air door so it wouldn't cause a drag to the recirc motor which probably caused the problem in the first place.
If you change the A/C evaporator, change the the heater core also and vice versa. Can be expensive, but it's cheap insurance, peace of mind, and you sleep good at night ! ! !
Thank you for this video. It brought back memories.
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I just turned 75 last week. I learned a lot from my Dad when he had his shop from 1957 to 1976 in Massachusetts.
Like many of you, brakes, shock absorbers & struts, packing axle bearings, tune-ups, exhaust system replacements (salt and sand belt) and more, but his favorite repair and mine was electrical. I learned "how to" rebuild starters, generators, YES GENERATORS, alternators, carb repair, distributor repair and of course electrical diagnostics for that time period.
This layed the groundwork for my 1987 Auto and Construction Equipment Electrician job at the L.A. Dept of Water and Power that lasted until April 2016.
So ya we new quite a bit about our vehicles back then, but even now checking some of the fluids under the hood can be done by looking at the fluid reservoir. Shaking the vehicle side to side will allow some fluids to move and show their levels. Engine oil, trans fluid, some power steering fluid and differential fluids require more work to check them.
Once a driver learns how to check these fluids along with the tire pressure (don't forget the spare if equipped) that driver will have much more knowledge about that vehicle.
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My 06 Frontier with the 4.0L V6 has the same water pump. Mine has 3 timing chains with the main one operating the water pump. The oil pump is inside in the upper oil pan area. That coolant pipe on the passenger's side is like mine which is anodized with a similar upper radiator hose from the pipe to the radiator. Mine is a 6 Speed Manual Trans and a similar looking transfer case. The xfer case motor is different on mine. Instead of a wrench/socket head xfer case drain plug, mine has a square hole which a 3/8" extension fits nicely. The rear differential is the same on my 06. It's a Dana 44 type differential. Fuel tank, canister, towing receiver, spare tire on mine are very similar to the "2025." Rear brakes, parking brake and rear ABS sensors look the same as the new one. Front diff is similar to the new truck and directly connected to the front wheels. No locks to disconnect or connect for 4WD operation. When I changed the two exhaust timing chain tensioners, the main timing chain's tensioner, the three chains, the water pump, the guides and the front timing cover's crank seal. The timing chain's tensioners had their plastic part worn down from the timing chain's bottom rubbing on the plastic cushion. So while I was in there, with close 100,000 miles on the vehicle, I decided to do the job now, to eliminate the problem later. The hardest part of the job was the cleaning of the Nissan 3Bond adhesive that holds the front and rear timing covers together. Overall I still have and really like my 06 Nissan Frontier. Of course, I also really like my 2020 RAV4! Thank you for this video.
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