Youtube hearted comments of Mike Chiodetti (@mikechiodetti4482).
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"Check the tires once a month." Right! Like anyone does that. I use my MaxiTPMS TS401 from time to time to check my 2020 RAV4 and my 06 Nissan Frontier. Yes I've replaced the 4 sensors in the 06 Frontier. Just before I retired April 1, 2016, the left front sensor would turn on the light. Usually on a Saturday morning when it was cool/cold outside. Borrowed the shop tester on Monday, sensor read normal, so I'd reset the system. This happened twice. so, I adjusted all 4 tires to read 40 PSI, and all 4 sensors read about 2 PSI lower. Borrowed the tester again on a Friday. Sat morning I gauge checked the tire pressure. Still at 40 PSI. Turn on ignition switch and BOOM! Light stayed on. Three sensors read about 2 PSI lower than gauge, left front read 5 PSI lower than gauge. Cool morning, "intermittent problem," 10 year old vehicle and it's TPM sensors. One new Nissan sensor, all's well in Nissan land. Two weeks later, same problem. Used my previous procedure, right front's bad. Bought 3 new Nissan sensors, no more problems. It's been almost 5 years now, still working well. Thanks for your videos.
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My 2020 RAV4 gets a lot of "around town" driving. Then I put it on the freeway, cruise control on, 70 mph for several miles, then drive it back at the same speed. Not only the combustion chambers, but the PCV system, engine oil, trans fluid and more get good and hot and helps to eliminate the moisture that gets into those fluids. The next time it's driven, it's like a young kid full of energy instead of an old person who can't move well. Also, that very slight tip-in hesitation is gone! The vehicle has "less than" 9000 miles. Not a typo! And yes I'm retired 6 years now but still work on my own vehicles. I may do overkill on preventative maintenance, but the proof is in the vehicles operation. They run great! More important. "You take care of and maintain your vehicle, it'll take care of you!"
Thank you for this video. Hope the new building is coming along well!
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Fuel trims can throw you. For example. Watch when your LFT reads 12.5 and your SFT reads -10.5. This can confuse people, but actually, your TOTAL fuel trim is +2.0 or 2.0. The short trim is removing fuel, but the LFT is taking its time to reduce. I've seen this after a repair. The fix was to reset the fuel trims and watch. The engine has about 40K on it and the SFT reads from -7% to +7%, and it stays that way. There's other scenario's, and only by learning how SFT and LFT work with the AFR sensors is it understood. I saw one Ford V10 van that both banks LFT and SFT reading at +25% each for a combined TOTAL Fuel Trim of 50% each bank. This was at idle. As the throttle was opened slowly to 2000 RPM's, LFT's and SFT's settled down with LFT's approximately between 6 to 8% and SFT's approximately between -7 to +7%. At idle, the van shook so bad, I thought the ladders would fall from their roof racks. The cause was a tear in the PCV hose on the bottom of the hose near the port on the throttle body. Ford had an upgrade for this with a thicker hose material. With the the new hose installed, fuel trims came down, no more shaking and all was well in Ford land. The tear wasn't big, only about 1 inch long, but the engine heat and vacuum caused the tear to turn inward toward the inside of the hose. It was that thin! A tech learning about fuel trims needs to work with vehicles that are running good to get a baseline understanding of that system. Disconnect then reconnect a small vacuum hose and watch the readings. I had to learn fuel trims AND the Ford WDS diagnostic system we had before we got the IDS which I understand is still in use. Thankyou for this video.
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AMD is so right! We had guys at work that had Snap On this, Mac that, and I have the older Craftsman tools which served me well! Now Craftsman is all from China.....good luck!
Gear Wrench make good tools, but don't use that ratchet wrench when breaking loose a fastener. The ratchet is designed to help quickly remove a nut or bolt.
Short or shallow sockets are good but deep sockets are great! My favorites are deep, 6 point, impact sockets. Sometimes you'll need 12 point sockets. Impact wobbly sockets have proved to me their worth MANY TIMES!
Like AMD says, buy individual sockets, not a set of 12, unless you really need them, or there's a once a year sale on them. Sometimes tool trucks will do that just to lower their inventory.
There's a lot more to tools, more than can be covered here.
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Thankyou for doing this. You make it so anyone can understand the components and what they do. My hybrid experience was with the first and second gen Prius. We had an instructor that had us remove the battery packs and inverter/converters from two working Priuses with no problems. We took the covers off the battery packs he explained how to test the individual batteries and how each individual "cell" was 7.2 Volts "at that time." We learned how to clean the corrosion from the straps that connected the cells, what to torque them to after reinstalling them, how the small bolts were special that held the straps to the battery how each cell could be recharged, and even how a little problem came along after a while that caused a fuel mileage problem. Well, cleaning the straps, checking and replacing a bad cell (back then) followed by recharging brought the fuel mileage back to where it was supposed to be. Then the other group with the removed inverter/converter went over that with the instructor and both groups on that Prius reinstalled the inverter/converter, the battery pack and the safety plug. Once that was done, the vehicle had to start and not have any codes! Then we went to lunch. After lunch, we reversed positions and my group got to remove and learn about the inverter/converter by taking it apart, putting it back together and adding the coolant back into the reservoir for that part of the system. The vehicle had to start, not have codes, and we were done for that day. I THOROUGHLY ENJOYED THAT DAY IN THE SHOP WITH THOSE TWO PRIUSES! Several years later, one of our Prius's was in a wreck, I got to change engine coolant hoses, the radiator and other parts. Yes, I removed the inverter/converter, replaced several small coolant hoses under that unit, put it back together and since the Body shop had done their work, I finished the car, got it going and no codes.
I learned two things about that car. How to keep the transmission from going into park so the vehicle could be moved around with the engine off and keyfob removed, by removing a relay in the underhood fuse/relay box thanks to Carolyn who worked on Priuses in a different part of California and was a member of iATN like me. The second item was the early hybrids did not like to sit long especially in the Body Shop and sometimes would not start even with a full tank of gas. Seems the float in the tank would sink. A quick tip was to shake the back of the car from side to side and the float would regain its "floatability!" Then it started! Other than a couple small battery changes, I didn't do much maintenance to the other Priuses that were in our City fleet.
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