Comments by "Laurence Fraser" (@laurencefraser) on "Technology Connections"
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What's really fun is watching dvds translated from Japanese with the audio and subtitles both set to English. The issue is that the primary target for people who wanted to read the subtitles wasn't people who couldn't hear the English audio, it was people who would watch the thing with the Japanese audio on with English subtitles (there's a whole history here that basically amounts to the publishers of English versions of things being stupid, and large portions of the fan base also being stupid, on top of the more obvious and reasonable causes that one might expect).
Consequently, the audio and subtitles would be (well, will be. This still happens, to my understanding) Independently translated from the Japanese, often by entirely different translation companies, with no attempt what so ever being made to reconcile the two beyond the natural consequence of lining up the timing with what was happening on screen.
Which means that if you want to watch with English audio* but need subtitles, the results are kind of wild.
*such as, say, when watching almost any anime with highschool girls in it. The Japanese audio frequently ends up being physically painful if you have certain sensory issues.
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@foobarturkey Linux is better than it used to be, and going by what I've seen since I last tried to use it, if it handles something At All usually handles it well.
Still, last time I tried to use it I found myself in the weird situation where any given version supported Either my laptop's screen Or it's touch pad correctly, not both. Ended up installing Windows 8 (because I still had a CD for that) instead, which works just fine (it has plenty of its own problems, but none of the ones that actually affect me are deal breakers.) ... Of course, the reason I wanted Linux was because the thing Came with windows 10, which was Awful.
(Also, this whole OS business is what caused me to give up on the shop I got the laptop from. When you pay someone who supposedly knows what they're doing to set up your computer Properly so it actually works right, you kind of expect to, at the other end, get a computer that's set up properly and actually works right, and if that's not actually possible you can reasonably expect that they'll actually tell you as much at Some Point! ... This is not what happened.)
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@busimagen The difference is mostly units of measure of volume, if I recall correctly. That and possibly units of length smaller than an inch, which no one actually uses in the normal course of events.
The Imperial system is basically just 'every specialised unit of measure of things relevant to a specific field, standardized such that unit X is always unit X, with people then prefering to reuse existing units rather than create new ones if the existing units were sufficient to their new task'. Over time some fell out of use as the specialty they came from was less significant, and then sometimes things were rationalized a bit when that left gaps that became an issue later. Imperial units are Very Good at the things they're intended for, and Terrible at everything else, and conversions are a pain.
US customary units Started Out as British Imperial units, but then things happened.
SI units (kind of sort of metric but not exactly) are intended primarily for scientific applications, and for stuations where great precision is needed, as well as to minimise, simplify, and/or eliminate conversions wherever possible. Officially only the base units and multiplying or dividing it by 1000 are actually Things in SI, but you'd be hard pressedd to find a country that uses the metric system that doesn't add additional units for practical reasons: Centimetres (1/100th of a metre) are pretty much universal, for example. Some places use decilitres (1/10th of a litres), most places will use teaspoons (5ml), tablespoons (10 or 15ml depending on country), and cups (250ml, or 1/4th of a litre, or 200ml, or 1/5th of a litre, depending on where you're talking about... good odds on one of those having it's origin in American units and the other in British, though it's quite possibly unrelated, but it's very confusing when you end up with the wrong one!) for cooking because it's just substantially more practical for things of that scale for that particular application. ... and don't be surprised if you find the occasional stray imperial unit still floating around for certain niche applications.
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avoiding conflicts like that is the point in 45 degree plugs (almost always down-right), and one of the advantages of the 'straight out the back' type (countered by all the down sides of 'straight out the back' if your plug design is bad). Actually, one thing I've noticed a lot where I live (not the USA), is that Multiboxes (powerstrips, I guess) tend to have 45 degree plugs, but the sort of things that fully expect they're going to be plugged Into a multibox tend to have 'straight out the back' plugs...
and then there's the never to be sufficiently damnned wall warts. Bad enough when they all point Down (introducing the levering problem even in plugs that wouldn't have it otherwise), but then some genius started making multiboxes with two rows of plugs facing opposite ways to accomodate them... and after getting one I encountered, for the first time ever, a wall wart where the cable came out the TOP! Which, naturally, couldn't go in ANY of the sockets on that multibox.
Though more recently I bought a multibox with... 10 sockets? 12? it deals with this by having some of the sockets further apart to accomodate wide wall warts, and as a result the sockets on one side are Not in line with the sockets on the other side (and they also have the two sides facing opposite ways), so there's always at least a couple of sockets that are viable for any given stupid non-standard plug. So long as you don't have too many that are non-standard in the same fashion.
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@startedtech The solution to boiling water is to just buy an electric jug/kettle to begin with. Though I understand that these are actually rather rare in the USA, so you might need to import it... Mind you, you still don't want to buy the cheapest ones, as they're often...er... well, you get what you pay for. But the mid range one's still aren't actually expensive, by any real measure. Basically an electric heating element optimised (well, somewhat) for boiling water. To my recollection, the difference between heating an amount of water in one of those and heating it in a mettle kettle on a wood-fired stove is... well, my recollection is that they take about the same length of time (plus or minus having to set the fire if you hadn't already), with no risk of accidentally boiling the kettle dry (with all the consequences of that) if things don't go to plan. No idea with gas, never lived anywhere that used it (and wouldn't want to, honestly, all relevant local factors considered (including unplanned rapid disassembly events caused by gas company negligence...))... Of course, such stove related problems may or may not be down to how your electrical grid works and how the stove is intended to make use of it. Around here they're part of the house, essentially, wired into the house's electrical systems fairly directly (not plugged into wall socket or the like) and I believe draw more than the standard wall socket and associated circuit are rated for (240v, pretty much universally in residential environments). For comparison, fridges, washing machines, and even the hot water tank (usually the single biggest source of electrical demand in any given house, just... a bit more spread out than the stove) all plug into standard 240v sockets.
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You do run into the issue that the standard configuraiton is tailight = red, brake light = double intensity red. (usually this is done by having two lights in the module, with the break light control powering both of them while the tail light control only powers one) Brakelights often, but not always, include extra red lights (near the top of the vehicle) as well, which the tail lights generally don't, but that's very much an optional extra.
Also that dimmer systems have (at least in the past) typically worn out faster.
Oh, and flashing amber indicator lights have specific meanings (whether it be only on one side or the other (turning), both (hazard) or spinning on the roof (also hazard, but of a rather different sort)), which interacts poorly with the rather dumb idea that is using the car's red brake lights as turn signals even without flashing Red lights actually having a distinct meaning.
All quite fixable, of course (and most places don't even have that last problem because, well, they don't do the dumb 'red turn signal' thing.)
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Oddly, to my recollection, around here a Pack of AAAs and a Pack of AAs will cost basically the same... but the AAA pack will contain more batteries. On the other hand, you can often get 20 packs of AAs for even cheaper, not so much AAAs. Probably because the AAAs tend to go in things with much lower power draw, and thus last longer, while things that actually chew through batteries tend to use AAs. That said, used to be the two most common uses for Cs or Ds were tourches and Radios... these days the tourches use LEDs and run on AA or AAAs (I think I have a weird one that uses three AAAs aranged in a triangle with the holder in the middle in a space about equivalent to where the old C or D batteries would go), while radios either use AAs (quite a few of them) or larger rechargables (I have one that can take both, with the later being a standard cellphone batteries from back when those were actually replaceable, at least going by form factor, which came with it... except... this is just straight up a radio (well, it can play audio files off a USB flash drive if you don't mind setting the thing on fire, or a flash memory card, but other than that it's just a radio... a really budget radio...) and the battery, fully charged, won't even keep it powered for a single day. ... so in the normal course of events I just keep it straight off it's usb charging cable with no batteries in it and if it ever needs to run off battery power it's getting AAs shoved in there).
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@robertpendzick9250 Nonstandard configurations are entirely warrented in some cases (see the Steamdeck's weird battery that is Decidedly nonstandard... because the alternatives are making the thing massively bigger (it's already arguably slightly too big), gutting it's batterly life, or having the whole thing burst into flame), though whenever that is Not the case standard models should absolutely be used (You'd think the usual penny pinching practices would make this the norm already).
Rechargable vs non-rechargable is a Big Deal. Frankly they should always be rechargable and it kind of pisses me off when I stop to think about it that rechargable AA and AAA batteries seem to have largely vanished (or at least been displaced from your typical battery display in random non-specialist shops) here while the non-rechargable ones keep on trucking. Mostly due to waste disposal issues, but also saving the customer money... of course the people who Make batteries would really rather you have to constantly buy more, so it's understandable why they went that way, even if it has a strong negative effect on my opinion of them.
On replaceability, though, you're absolutely right. Making the battery non-replaceable (note that I'm discounting 'it's nonstandard for good reason and a reasonable number of spares were produced but it's many years later and they've all been used up now' here, as if one is really desperate in that scenario one Could assemble a viable alternative power supply, it just wouldn't be as good) is fundamentally inexcusable, and most of the time it's a scam to force you to buy a new one sooner than you otherwise would (batteries being a wear part)... of course, Sometimes it's just penny pinching to save on the cost of designing, buying/making parts for, and assembling a more reasonable battery housing (why bother when you can just glue it to the case?) and Exceptionally rarely there might be a valid reason for it (though most of these are also at least partially a price issue, though usually not just a matter of penny pinching). But usually it's the scam option.
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Some of our devices do, in fact, not have an actual off switch here in New Zealand. It's Really Annoying, because sometimes those same devices are also designed on the assumption that you'll never Want to turn them off, so do stupid things like revert to factory default settings when you do. (These are usually things made primarily for other markets, admittedly. Not always though)
Most have actual switches on the device as well though.
Broadly speaking, the wall switch on the power plugs (in most cases identical to the light switches, as I understand it) provide a whole bunch of minor improvements to safety (mostly not Electrical safety (though a little of that too) as such so much as safety from fire, tripping hazards, and 'i just stepped on a spikey thing!', especially for children, the elderly, etc.), convenience (particularly when mucking around with proper extension cords. No, not multi-boxes.), And reducing wear and tear (many less instances of plugging and unplugging, plus the rapid disconnect the same as in light switches).
Of course, our plugs aren't a Lot better than american ones. The plug housing Always flairs out to completely cover all three sockets even on two pin plugs and keep your hand away from the pins (well, some old ones didn't. They do now though!) the bit you grab to unplug it is a bit more solid (admittedly, it's often some sort of transformer/converter brick thing...) and the pins are Never long enough to stick out of the socket when plugged in properly, but that's pretty much it.
Standard safety measure is inserting plastic dummy-plugs (that are roughly equivalent to childproof lids on medicine bottles) into unused sockets, but no one bothers with that if there aren't small children in the house (not least because they have a Really Annoying (though perfectly safe and easy to fix) failure state where the mechanism to get them out breaks off...)
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@Novashadow115 to be fair, he'd actually be right about...well, most people. It just has nothing to do with EV vs ICE or much of anything else that might be thus implied.
Most people simply do not actually travel to other cities much. Usually due to lack of time, lack of money, or just lack of reason to do so. Perhaps they don't see other cities as other countries, really, but that's largely due to not really thinking about either very much... There's places within reasonable travel distance by whatever methods are available for just doing day to day things, places that are within day-trip distances for doing something a bit special on a weekend or other day off, and then there's everywhere else that requires a lot of planning ahead, packing, organization, etc. (degree of paperwork and language learning involved varies, but beyond that not much changes) That's really how most people think about that sort of thing. EV cars, ICE cars, various public transit options (of whatever type and quality happen to be available), they all nudge around which thing is in what category a bit (and just being flat out rich makes a big difference
Not to mention the fact that the USA is large enough that more distant states (and the cities there-in) pretty much Are different countries in most meaningful respects.
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@BlackHawkBallistic Ideally if you're going outside of EV range you'd be able to make use of various mass transit options... ... of course, some parts of the world are much better in that regard than others.
Also, last I heard smaller delivery trucks and vans could be battery powered quite happily.
Of course, you do hit range and mass limits after a while. EVs have their own version of the rocket equation to contend with. The ideal solution to this is, well, electrified rail in most cases, but there is a range and throughput band between 'last mile consumer and small retail delivery in cities' and 'roll several entire train cars right into the warehouse', and that does assume the rail infrastructure's still in place/gets built. (too bad so much got ripped up in the later half of the 20th century). For that, ICE vehicles are still the way to go...
Though there has been an interesting experiment/first stage infrastructure project in... Germany, I think it was? Basically takes its cues from trolley buses. Basically your standard big-rig trucks, except there's a pantograph on the cab roof and overhead cables along the outermost lane of the highway (some of these are hybrids that use ICE once they leave the highway, others have batteries for their last mile in cities, and I think some just run between depots that are just off the highways and served by the cables as well. Can't quite recall for that last one)
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Mobility scooters can also have reverse alarms of the beepy sort. Having one back up right next to you In A Shop is Awful. I imagine getting your foot run over by such a scooter would Also be awful, and they're not as loud as the ones on trucks, but still...
As for reverse lights, around here it has become Fairly standard in recent times for cars to have White lights on the rear that turn on when going backwards, in addition to the red... basically running lights that indicate you're looking at the back of a car (or other vehicle, based on their number and position) and get Noticeably brighter when the breaks are activated.
There's been a law/regulation on the books for longer than I've been alive that cars Can have white lights on the rear, so long as those lights only activate when going Backwards (and likewise, Can have red lights on the front... so long as they only activate when going backwards), but manufacturers didn't actually Bother until... honestly, I don't remember, but it was rare enough to be noteworthy if you saw it in the early 2000s, and these days cars that Don't have such lights are rare enough to be noteworthy.
There are also parking lights. From what I recall, those tend to be a sort of yellow-ish white, often postioned so they make the rear license plate Very obvious (by way of shining right on it from the sides and sort of using it as a reflector) and so you can see just enough around the rear of a car that you won't bash your shins on the tow bar (if your car has one). Might help a bit with getting things in and out of the back of the car or changing a rear tire, I guess?
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@Rickyp0123 if it's wired up the same way it is here (where it's very common to have a switch by the door and a switch by where the bed is expected to be in the master bedroom, or at each end of a passage way, or any other similar situation), the lights are On when both switches are in the same position and Off when they switches don't match. I've seen how the wiring for that works before, but I forget exactly.
And this bothered me enough that I went and looked it up:
First off, the circuit doesn't go power-switch-light-switch-power, as one might think, but power-switch-switch-light-power. Then it's really straight forward: The switches have their 'top' pins connected to each other, and their 'bottom' pins connected to each other. So when both are 'up', there's a complete circuit, when both are 'down', there's a complete circuit, and when one is in each position there is not.
The quote marks there are because it actually doesn't matter which way up the switches are. They can be sidewise, it doesn't change anything. Heck, you could have them up opposite ways (or, perhaps more accurately, wired 'backwards') and it wouldn't matter to the circuit (though, it would be a bit more confusing for the user, and potentially cause problems for anyone having to work on the thing again later).
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