Comments by "Laurence Fraser" (@laurencefraser) on "Technology Connections" channel.

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  19.  @busimagen  The difference is mostly units of measure of volume, if I recall correctly. That and possibly units of length smaller than an inch, which no one actually uses in the normal course of events. The Imperial system is basically just 'every specialised unit of measure of things relevant to a specific field, standardized such that unit X is always unit X, with people then prefering to reuse existing units rather than create new ones if the existing units were sufficient to their new task'. Over time some fell out of use as the specialty they came from was less significant, and then sometimes things were rationalized a bit when that left gaps that became an issue later. Imperial units are Very Good at the things they're intended for, and Terrible at everything else, and conversions are a pain. US customary units Started Out as British Imperial units, but then things happened. SI units (kind of sort of metric but not exactly) are intended primarily for scientific applications, and for stuations where great precision is needed, as well as to minimise, simplify, and/or eliminate conversions wherever possible. Officially only the base units and multiplying or dividing it by 1000 are actually Things in SI, but you'd be hard pressedd to find a country that uses the metric system that doesn't add additional units for practical reasons: Centimetres (1/100th of a metre) are pretty much universal, for example. Some places use decilitres (1/10th of a litres), most places will use teaspoons (5ml), tablespoons (10 or 15ml depending on country), and cups (250ml, or 1/4th of a litre, or 200ml, or 1/5th of a litre, depending on where you're talking about... good odds on one of those having it's origin in American units and the other in British, though it's quite possibly unrelated, but it's very confusing when you end up with the wrong one!) for cooking because it's just substantially more practical for things of that scale for that particular application. ... and don't be surprised if you find the occasional stray imperial unit still floating around for certain niche applications.
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  36.  @startedtech  The solution to boiling water is to just buy an electric jug/kettle to begin with. Though I understand that these are actually rather rare in the USA, so you might need to import it... Mind you, you still don't want to buy the cheapest ones, as they're often...er... well, you get what you pay for. But the mid range one's still aren't actually expensive, by any real measure. Basically an electric heating element optimised (well, somewhat) for boiling water. To my recollection, the difference between heating an amount of water in one of those and heating it in a mettle kettle on a wood-fired stove is... well, my recollection is that they take about the same length of time (plus or minus having to set the fire if you hadn't already), with no risk of accidentally boiling the kettle dry (with all the consequences of that) if things don't go to plan. No idea with gas, never lived anywhere that used it (and wouldn't want to, honestly, all relevant local factors considered (including unplanned rapid disassembly events caused by gas company negligence...))... Of course, such stove related problems may or may not be down to how your electrical grid works and how the stove is intended to make use of it. Around here they're part of the house, essentially, wired into the house's electrical systems fairly directly (not plugged into wall socket or the like) and I believe draw more than the standard wall socket and associated circuit are rated for (240v, pretty much universally in residential environments). For comparison, fridges, washing machines, and even the hot water tank (usually the single biggest source of electrical demand in any given house, just... a bit more spread out than the stove) all plug into standard 240v sockets.
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  44. ​ @robertpendzick9250  Nonstandard configurations are entirely warrented in some cases (see the Steamdeck's weird battery that is Decidedly nonstandard... because the alternatives are making the thing massively bigger (it's already arguably slightly too big), gutting it's batterly life, or having the whole thing burst into flame), though whenever that is Not the case standard models should absolutely be used (You'd think the usual penny pinching practices would make this the norm already). Rechargable vs non-rechargable is a Big Deal. Frankly they should always be rechargable and it kind of pisses me off when I stop to think about it that rechargable AA and AAA batteries seem to have largely vanished (or at least been displaced from your typical battery display in random non-specialist shops) here while the non-rechargable ones keep on trucking. Mostly due to waste disposal issues, but also saving the customer money... of course the people who Make batteries would really rather you have to constantly buy more, so it's understandable why they went that way, even if it has a strong negative effect on my opinion of them. On replaceability, though, you're absolutely right. Making the battery non-replaceable (note that I'm discounting 'it's nonstandard for good reason and a reasonable number of spares were produced but it's many years later and they've all been used up now' here, as if one is really desperate in that scenario one Could assemble a viable alternative power supply, it just wouldn't be as good) is fundamentally inexcusable, and most of the time it's a scam to force you to buy a new one sooner than you otherwise would (batteries being a wear part)... of course, Sometimes it's just penny pinching to save on the cost of designing, buying/making parts for, and assembling a more reasonable battery housing (why bother when you can just glue it to the case?) and Exceptionally rarely there might be a valid reason for it (though most of these are also at least partially a price issue, though usually not just a matter of penny pinching). But usually it's the scam option.
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  53. Some of our devices do, in fact, not have an actual off switch here in New Zealand. It's Really Annoying, because sometimes those same devices are also designed on the assumption that you'll never Want to turn them off, so do stupid things like revert to factory default settings when you do. (These are usually things made primarily for other markets, admittedly. Not always though) Most have actual switches on the device as well though. Broadly speaking, the wall switch on the power plugs (in most cases identical to the light switches, as I understand it) provide a whole bunch of minor improvements to safety (mostly not Electrical safety (though a little of that too) as such so much as safety from fire, tripping hazards, and 'i just stepped on a spikey thing!', especially for children, the elderly, etc.), convenience (particularly when mucking around with proper extension cords. No, not multi-boxes.), And reducing wear and tear (many less instances of plugging and unplugging, plus the rapid disconnect the same as in light switches). Of course, our plugs aren't a Lot better than american ones. The plug housing Always flairs out to completely cover all three sockets even on two pin plugs and keep your hand away from the pins (well, some old ones didn't. They do now though!) the bit you grab to unplug it is a bit more solid (admittedly, it's often some sort of transformer/converter brick thing...) and the pins are Never long enough to stick out of the socket when plugged in properly, but that's pretty much it. Standard safety measure is inserting plastic dummy-plugs (that are roughly equivalent to childproof lids on medicine bottles) into unused sockets, but no one bothers with that if there aren't small children in the house (not least because they have a Really Annoying (though perfectly safe and easy to fix) failure state where the mechanism to get them out breaks off...)
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  64. Mobility scooters can also have reverse alarms of the beepy sort. Having one back up right next to you In A Shop is Awful. I imagine getting your foot run over by such a scooter would Also be awful, and they're not as loud as the ones on trucks, but still... As for reverse lights, around here it has become Fairly standard in recent times for cars to have White lights on the rear that turn on when going backwards, in addition to the red... basically running lights that indicate you're looking at the back of a car (or other vehicle, based on their number and position) and get Noticeably brighter when the breaks are activated. There's been a law/regulation on the books for longer than I've been alive that cars Can have white lights on the rear, so long as those lights only activate when going Backwards (and likewise, Can have red lights on the front... so long as they only activate when going backwards), but manufacturers didn't actually Bother until... honestly, I don't remember, but it was rare enough to be noteworthy if you saw it in the early 2000s, and these days cars that Don't have such lights are rare enough to be noteworthy. There are also parking lights. From what I recall, those tend to be a sort of yellow-ish white, often postioned so they make the rear license plate Very obvious (by way of shining right on it from the sides and sort of using it as a reflector) and so you can see just enough around the rear of a car that you won't bash your shins on the tow bar (if your car has one). Might help a bit with getting things in and out of the back of the car or changing a rear tire, I guess?
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