Comments by "Laurence Fraser" (@laurencefraser) on "In Defense of the Switched Outlet" video.

Fortunately, were I live, it's pretty rare to find outlets covered by furniture... but it's very common for them (and light switches) to be positioned with the assumption that you would put very specific furniture in very specific places, making things quite akward if you have reason to do anything that Isn't That.
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Overhead lighting is Super useful for cleaning, or large spaces where several people are doing different things in different parts of the room while facing different directions, among other things. Of course, there are also situations where it's annoying or unhelpful, and lamps are quite useful. And then there's my setup where I've got both, and they're Super useful for the things they're good at... but I barely use Either of them because the vast majority of the time I have three LCD computer monitors going.
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The solution that will cause you the least grief is to use normal dumb switches that aren't connected to the internet of things. Save yourself, and any subsequent owners, untold hours (days, weeks) of headaches and frustration when one company or another pushes a broken update or goes out of business and compleatly bricks your entire lighting system. Among other unnecessary problems. Not to mention such things are almost never properly secure, and are almost always Connected To The Internet. If you can't see how That can go wrong, you shouldn't be ON the internet, for your own safety <_< And that's before getting into the nonsense that is Amazon and Google's abuses (both malicious and neglegent) of the access to the data they get out of such devices (and any other source, to be fair). I won't argue against the convenience when they're properly setup and working though. But, you'll save yourself and others a LOT of pain if A: the system is completely isolated from any sort of internet access (meaning you need physical access to actually change anything), and B: No part of it is propritory.
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The switches have contacts on both sides rather than contact on one and no contact on the other. Not sure if the standard practice is to use the latter sort normally, or the former and just not wire up one of the contacts. You then wire up the circuit as power-switch-switch-light-power, with side A of switch 1 connected to side A of switch 2, and side B of switch 1 connected to side B of switch 2. When both switches are in the same position, you have a complete circuit and the light turns on, when they are not, you don't. Adding more lights works exactly the same as it normally does. Now, if you want to add a Third switch, it gets a lot more complicated.
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@Rickyp0123 if it's wired up the same way it is here (where it's very common to have a switch by the door and a switch by where the bed is expected to be in the master bedroom, or at each end of a passage way, or any other similar situation), the lights are On when both switches are in the same position and Off when they switches don't match. I've seen how the wiring for that works before, but I forget exactly. And this bothered me enough that I went and looked it up: First off, the circuit doesn't go power-switch-light-switch-power, as one might think, but power-switch-switch-light-power. Then it's really straight forward: The switches have their 'top' pins connected to each other, and their 'bottom' pins connected to each other. So when both are 'up', there's a complete circuit, when both are 'down', there's a complete circuit, and when one is in each position there is not. The quote marks there are because it actually doesn't matter which way up the switches are. They can be sidewise, it doesn't change anything. Heck, you could have them up opposite ways (or, perhaps more accurately, wired 'backwards') and it wouldn't matter to the circuit (though, it would be a bit more confusing for the user, and potentially cause problems for anyone having to work on the thing again later).
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