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The Car Care Nut
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Comments by "" (@jayjaynella4539) on "The Car Care Nut" channel.
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Car was in minor accident and sat outside the repair shop for a few days or weeks and rain got in around the trunk seal. Water was removed and dried out, but the rot was inside the box.
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Hopefully you put the old key back under the chassis to make it even harder to steal!
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Been following CCN since the plandemic and I have never seen the shop so full like this.
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@user-3tf67bk46u Rare is the woman, as rare as an honest politician, who wants to understand and see how an automobile functions. And what is involved in keeping the car in top shape so the car does not break down anytime.
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I have found some pulleys with small bolts are easier to remove while the belt is still on. Holds the pulley enough to loosen the bolts. After the belt is off you then have to hold the pulley while loosing the bolts. Hard to do by yourself, and then tighten the bolts fully on assembly with the belt on the pulleys.
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I bought 1 of those kits delivered to my door for my 2001 Camry mcv20R. All the parts except water pump were made in US or Japan. Quality parts. $247 to my Australian door from California. That was 100,000 km ago. No problems since then. Locally would have cost over $600 but I would have had to go to 4 dealers to get the 11 parts in the kit.
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I did not know there was a TCOC in Australia. I am on a Toyota owner's forum which I post on occasionally. Just looked this up. The forum is part of the TCOC it appears.
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Mrs. hit a curb lightly with her Camry. Minor rash to the left front wheel. Further discovery lead to a torn front left caliper boot. Being 22 years old, I decided to replace all the caliper seals. Rear pads had lots of material left, found rear calipers to be seized. Rebuilt calipers all around, and new pads and rubbers all around.
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104K miles = 160K kms, which is the recommended change interval. also your belt is 16 years old. Change the belt and tensioner, may not be necessary to do the water pump as those are quite durable.
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I hope you replaced the bearings on top of the struts. If you didn't you will be replacing them within a year. Ask me how I know.
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Wiring problems. Those Lexus units are so integrated into the car power system and have so many connectors unique to the Lexus that aftermarket would be so difficult to install or even find an appropriate unit.
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Cheaper than having a wife! 🤣
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Car engineers get company cars and never work on the cars or even see what their work has produced.
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I have disassembled many Holden Statesmens and commodores in Australia down to the shell. Evap hardest to get to and heater core also requires removal of dash. I bet this is due to crash standards keeping the car companies from providing easier access to those buried components. I mean, thousands of people drive their cars every day with the idea of causing an accident because, well, so that is why we need incompetent bureaucraps dictating car designs. Where would the world be without these power hungry bureaucraps who do not know how to use a screwdriver?
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My 2 sets of new tyres recently purchased have a red and yellow dot on each tyre.
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The rust states look on salt costs as an investment that raises much more tax monies by the premature rusting of vehicles. Imagine the toll rust must make on heavy duty vehicles, like semis which have more taxes than the average car.
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In 1998 I went to Germany on business from Australia. Had a rental Lancia K for 10 days to drive around. 2.0L, 5 speed manual. Top speed of 180 km, and that on the autobahn. Very nice car to drive. Italy equivalent to Mercedes. Made for some fun driving the autobahn where you had Porsches doing up to 300 km/h.
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Brake fluid is great at attracting water. We chemists call it a hygroscopic fluid, it attracts water quite easily. Change the bf every 2 years.
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Hint: Put the brake rotors and suspension parts on the lower shelves, not at the top. Makes the rack unsteady and compromises its strength by putting the weight at the very top instead of the bottom. The epoxy floors, I would ask if the company could just redo the bad areas and you can keep the shop going. I think the company can sand down the epoxy floor areas that are bad and do a recoat rather than the whole shop. Looks like some incomplete mixing occurred in places there.
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In Victoria you can sell without a roadie and/or registration, it is then up to the purchaser to make the car roadworthy. There are dealers who sell such cars and also auctions do that.
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I had one of these rear axles go out in my wh statesman. In tracking down which axle, we concluded it was the right side going out. 3 days after replacing it, the noise returned. Took the car to a diff shop who told me it was on the left side. Got second hand units for both sides. After 2 weeks of no noise I concluded I fixed the noise. Took apart the old axle, grease had shriveled and dried, and there were millions of tiny steel shavings in the inner joint, along with 40 mm of side play.
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Here in Australien I am having trouble getting new oem parts for my 2001 Camry. Like PS pump, driver seat belt. I recently put on an aftermarket PS pump because the oems are no more. Same with seat belt. Those seat belts are available in the US so I am going to get one from the US. My son will bring it back home when he visits the US in 2 months. And some oil filters that are 1/6th the price of oem filters in Aus.
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I had 2 of those lights my son gave me almost 8 years ago that he got from Aldi. Recently I set up a charging station to charge all my batteries, and within days both lights died. Switches went out but one had really sticky plastic ends. Never used them much but i had to smash them to fit them into the rubbish bin.
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Gives new meaning to the term made in china. Never had this problem until manufacturers went to the land of the cheaters and stealers of everyone else's hard labour.
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With aluminium wheels you need to check tyre air every 2 weeks. I find after a month tyre pressure loses 4 pounds of air on these wheels. With steel wheels, every 3 months is fine. Battery inflators are great, my Dewalt frees me from the tyranny of going to a servo only to find a lineup of people checking tyre pressures. Also my son stores several cars and trailers on the property most of which are not registered. The inflator is a great tool for keeping the tyres up to capacity. Once a month I do the rounds on all the tyres on my lot. When I want.
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Not in your face look at me type of appearance.
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IT's amazing the frame held together for so long.
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@ConsoleCombat Same here. Easy to repair and is forgiving of mistakes.
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That Celsior I have never seen in Australia. But I will say the steering wheel is on the RIGHT side of the car 🙃! Cars in Japan are replaced far more frequently than in just about any other country on earth. Hence its low mileage and sparkling condition. As most Japanese cars are rarely driven at freeway speeds. And inspection standards there are much higher than anywhere else. I am sure the burnt plastic on the exhaust can be removed by a brass wire brush on the end of a drill without damaging the exhaust. What a lovely car in such mint condition for its age. And the glass headlights that will never yellow and crack. No monstrous video screen that takes driver's eyes off the road and I suspect is the cause of many of the accidents I see on dashcam videos.
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Those teslas sitting there not running are a relief for the planet. Ecologically sound sitting in the park lot.
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In Aus, I went to get new ball joints for my 01 Camry Touring V6. Product discontinued by Toyota. Had some Protex bjs and I could not get the bolt holes lined up. Took them to my mechanic who had to elongate the holes to get the bjs to fit. For my rear calipers Toyota wanted $250, had to wait 2 weeks and that was just for the rubbers only. I could get a new aftermarket caliper for $250. I was able to clean up the piston bore and the piston and just buy the seals, aftermarket for $30 and German made.
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Dorman has a bad reputation amongst the YTers who have car channels, like SMA, CSW and RR. Never see their stuff in Australia.
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That would be a killer video to see!!!!
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I have a 2001 Camry Touring I bought in 2007, meticulously cared for with half the kilometers that other cars that age had. Didn't drive it but knew the owner and how neat she was. Headliner was repaired last year by a local seat repair bloke and it has new fabric and foam liner. Cost me $250 in down under $s. V6 auto. Replaced rear motor mount and had to remove the axle as 1 casting has the axle and mount together. Currently having a problem with passenger front door lock, replaced solenoid and still not working properly. Just spent over $800 for 4 caliper and rotor rebuild, new pads all around, 5 new tyres and 4 wheel alignment. Toyota parts here are very expensive and many parts for the 2001 are no longer available. So I mostly buy aftermarket parts.
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The items attaching to the front subframe are attached to the subframe at the factory. Then the car body is raised on the line and the subframe raised up into the engine cavity.
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Same year vintage 1mzfe and a GM 3.8 l. Toyota engine is the smoothest engine I have ever had including some of the big block mopars of the 70s.
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The whole idea of making ICE engines far more complex than is needed is to raise the cost to that of an electronic controllable car that the government wants us to have so govs can regulate our movements, like we are prisoners in jail.
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Why can't the headliner be made in 2 pieces at least?
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The leather on the seat can be fixed easily and inexpensively at an auto seat repair shop. I have a question. 2001 Camry, auto and 1mzfe engine. Power door locks. Passenger side door on left here in Oz, sometimes did not lock with the remote. Replaced the solenoid with an Aisin solenoid, Aisin made the original. Still got the problem, intermittent operation. I am now wondering if something else is wrong. Would you or anyone else have any advice on where to look for a wiring problem for this door? Ow, I am going to take to my mechanic for advice and/or repair. Thanking anyone in advance for their help.
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I use my car for towing a lot, a small trailer. V6. No way I want a 4 towing a trailer. 4s have little reserve power and do not have the torque necessary for towing or carrying a heavy load.
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I drove 11 hours to get my son his first car, a Suzuki Swift. Flew to Sydney from Melbourne, and drove the car back home.
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There is a lot of rust in the brake shoe area.
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Then there is all the algae and molds that can grow on the leaves and get sucked into the car.
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My Aussie made Wh Statesman from 2000 has that button for opening the boot via the glove box.
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Those oil leaks are part of the self lubing chassis system. Keeps the rust at bay. Axle clip is 1 man removal job, but need 2 to put the clip back properly. Ask me how I know. On my 2001 Touring, the left front door lock doesn't work properly. Found out the electric actuator on the door lock is faulty. Went to Toyota dealer. Part was available for $240, but would take 2 weeks. Part is made by Asin. Found a set of actuators for both front doors on ebay for $100, made by Asin. Just ordered yesterday. I find some Toyota parts at dealer for reasonable cost, but other parts are sky high prices and wait time for availability. High prices for dealer parts deter people from buying from the dealer, esp since the parts are made at the same time as the new car parts on the same assembly line and factory. Almost $500 for $100 parts is not acceptable.
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I will be paying more attention to my oil changes on my 2001 Camry Touring V6. It has 240K on it.
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My mechanic, independent service station operator in the 70s and 80s told me a similar story.
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@TheCarCareNut My wife being one of those. She refuses to read the owner manual.
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Aka the self lubricating chassis system. Not needed in Australia, but in Indiana definitely needed.
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That Lexus looks great and smells good even from down under. Fantastic work and efforts on everyone's part.
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