Comments by "Thump Er the Sweaty Fat Guy" (@SweatyFatGuy) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. I do not give a damn about any green new deal ban cars to save the planet communist crap, actually I am quite opposed to it. I am someone who likes to drive severely overpowered muscle cars on a very limited budget which is why I got started testing and producing ethanol. Interestingly, I have been running E85 and home made E100 for almost 13 years, in my 1970 GTO, 5 years in my 68 LeMans, and two years in my 65 GTO. Also ran E85 and hydrous E100 in my 98 Formula with the LS1, a 98 Gran Prix was also used as a test mule until the ex got it in a divorce. I park my old Pontiacs every November, pull the battery, and rarely touch them until the snow is gone in May. I get 200 inches of snow every winter, so they often end up buried under feet of snow. Notice I did not drain the tanks, carbs, or put any additives in, simply pull the battery and drive the $500 winter beater until it rusts in half from salt. Apparently you are unaware of testing on this exact subject... other than mine. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/05/25/ask-away-jeff-smith-e85-pump-gas-additives-not-ethanol-cause-corrosion/ I am the first to covet Qjets to E85 all information you will find about it comes from me, and I convert all kinds of carbs and EFI for my vehicles, I own over 40 in various states of functionality. The newest is an 06 GP I got for $700 to drive in the salt, the oldest is a 32 Pontiac two door sedan, the 65 GTO is my summer daily driver with a 455 wearing iron heads from a 67 vintage 400 that make 11.5:1 compression. I have run FiTech EFI, Demon 850, Holley 780/850, and several Qjets I have converted for my own engines and for others. The 70 GTO is going in my shop for a frame off soon, it has electrical and suspension issues, might as well do the whole thing. Hydrous ethanol means it has water in it, and straight out of my tree sap vodka still it is 185-194 proof. 100 proof is 50% water 50% ethanol, so 180 proof means it has 10% water in it. I denature my off site fuel (highway use) with things other than gasoline, I have to by Federal Law as a micro producer. Otherwise its moonshine and highly illegal. To make ethanol begin to be no longer useful as a fuel you have to add roughly 4 gallons of water to a ten gallon tank of fuel. I can tell you from experience its not going to absorb that much water from the air. Put a garden hose in the tank, or leave it under the gutter spout and it will. Right out of the still you could drink my fuel, but it doesn't taste very good and will give you a serious case of cottonmouth, and its illegal. Very illegal. So in more than a decade of testing with carbs and EFI, including leaving a fully assembled Qjet in a 5 gallon bucket of E85 with the lid ajar for over a year, then drilling it to run E85 back in 2008, I have had zero corrosion issues. I have barrels of E85 and E100 that sit around for months to years without any problems with it going bad. My carbs start every spring without issue, I have a 30 year old Carter electric street pump that I ran under the 70 GTO until last year when I started using it to pump fuel out of barrels. My fuel tanks are spotless inside. My rubber hose that connect the pump to steel line, and then to the carb all last longer on E85 and E100 than they do on race gas for sure, and also pump gas. My testing is more 'worst case scenario' than yours, and I am driving them every summer without problems. Open to the atmosphere for 7 months of sitting. It is not the ethanol causing the problems. If it were my carbs, pumps, tanks, etc would be junk yet they are perfectly clean and run great year after year. The problem is with additives put in the fuel by the companies that mix ethanol and gasoline, not ethanol itself. Want proof? Ethanol fuel is exactly the same stuff as whiskey, vodka, beer, wine, and those fruity drinks your girl loves so much. I hear there is a little bit of it in White Claw too. Take some high proof vodka or whiskey, put it in a jar with a chunk of aluminum. At 160 proof it can start causing problems due to electrolysis pulling aluminum into suspension, but above that its harmless, and it takes forever to happen. There are no fuel additives mixed in with taxed consumable ethanol. So if you get a 120 to 160 proof you will eventually get a little corrosion over a long time. Fuel ethanol is well above 160 proof, and some water getting in it is no problem, it works the same way HEET and Drygas work. HEET is mthanol, which is corrosive to carbs and other parts and Drygas is methanol mixed with isopropyl, they bod to water like ethanol does and that allows you to burn it. Gasoline does not mix with water, ethanol does and it lets you burn the water as fuel until its out of the tank. A pint of water in a tank of gas and you have big problems, a pint of water in ethanol and you will not notice a difference. That waxy yellow stuff that clogs the jets in small engines is not from ethanol, its an additive. Two stroke oil doesn't mix with ethanol, but castor oil does and you can run chainsaws on castor oil and vodka without problems. I run either 10% in my chainsaws, or I richen the mix and do the castor oil/straight ethanol thing. I live in the woods 3 hours north of Green Bay Wi so my chainsaws get worked. Pump gas goes bad in a little over a month here, fought with that on the 65 GTO after I finished the frame off on it in 2013. Leaving pump gas in the tank like I do E85 made it not want to start and run after just a few weeks. The EFI helped with that, but its a problem I do not have with high amounts of ethanol. Rust in the tanks is a big problem here as well, in the vehicles that run no ethanol premium. The water just sits in the bottom of the tanks and starts to rust. Now back in the 1990s I ran another 455 in my 79 Formula that had the heads which are on my 65 GTO right now(670 for the Pontiac guys). That was a race gas only engine, a 400 with those heads flattened the upper rod bearings in one night of driving and two hits in 1st gear running 93 octane. I had to replace all the rubber fuel hose every year, and pumps lasted about 3 years. There was zero ethanol in that VP Red and Sunoco 110 octane race gas. Gaskets in the 850 Holley lasted a year and a half, then the accel pumps started leaking. It was $5 a gallon back then, now is more like $8-$10 a gallon. E85 is $2.24 a gallon and everything lasts longer on it, plus it makes more power, burns cooler, is less affected by weather so it has more consistent ETs, and I can daily drive race gas compression on the cheap. That is why I am into ethanol, also I can make it for 10 cents a gallon from tree sap collected from the trees on my land. Give me all the power. I have another set of heads (48 milled to 64cc and ported to 260@.550 by BPG for the Pontiac guys) that make 13:1 on my flat top Icon piston 455, but stock style Pontiac head gaskets aren't fond of more than 12:1, and cometic gaskets are $86 each. I drove the 13:1 heads daily for a year before the cylinder pressure from the compression and cam timing pushed water into the oil. It was easier and cheaper to drop the compression to 11.5 and use cheap FelPro ($15ea) gaskets, so thats what I did, because having your daily broke and waiting a week for gaskets sucks. With premium being $4 already here, and 87 octane just dropped to $2.69 yesterday, I can't afford to drive without my fuel project. Check my channel, you can see them running on E85 and E100. I have 35 years experience running pump and race gas in addition to running E85 and E100, carbs, EFI, old stuff, new stuff, small engines, four and two strokes. Its my thing, which is obvious since I own over 40 vehicles. I am not finding any of these corrosion issues with the northern Wisconsin sourced E85 and the northern Michigan grown home made E100 I make. Well, other than my rear tires can be easily turned into molten goo at any speed under 50mph. Due to regional and state changes to gasoline formulation, you might get some problems from various additives, but its not the ethanol causing the problem.
    1