Youtube hearted comments of Perhaps (@NoEgg4u).
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1) Whatever that 4-year old's taste is today, in 14 years from now, her tastes will be 90% different.
2) That Tesla runs on batteries. No batteries last 14 years. If, in 14 years, pricing is similar to today's pricing, it will cost you approximately the price of a new Tesla to replace the batteries on your Tesla that will be 14 years old. And you will probably have to wait months, for replacement batteries to be in stock. And Tesla, and only Tesla, will have those batteries.
3) In 14 years, the tires on that Tesla will have dried up and rotted. That is $1,000+ that you will have to spend for replacement tires, at today's prices (and will probably be double, in 14 years).
4) In 14 years, no 18-year old girl will want to be driving a 14 year old car.
5) In 14 years, no 18-year old girl will want to drive a car with high mileage (as if you will really keep the car in storage for 14 years and not drive it).
6) Since, in 14 years, the batteries will be dead, and the tires will be rotted, you will have to tow your daughter's 14-year old Tesla to a Tesla service station.
There is more, such as passing inspection, and suspension parts being in an unknown state, and paying insurance for 14 years, etc.
I suspect that that couple might have been trolling us for clicks and likes, using their cute daughter as a lure.
If we are to believe their story, then we are supposed to believe that such stupid parents have that kind of money to burn. I guess it is good to have parents (the daughter's grandparents) to support their stupid children and their stupid children's 4-year old daughter.
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Although Windows, by default, mounts each drive (or each drive's volume) as a unique drive letter, you can configure any drive to be mounted Linux style (you can have Windows mount a drive to any location you choose, via Disk Management -- which requires administrator rights).
Although it is a simple process, it is not as simple as connecting the dots. You kind of need to know the Windows procedure.
Once your USB drive (for example) is plugged in:
You must first tell Windows (via Disk Management) to remove the drive letter. You then tell Windows (via Disk Management) to mount the drive via an NTFS mount point. That mount point must be an empty directory. Once mounted, that mount point (that directory) becomes an NTFS junction (pointing to some cryptic target, which I do not understand). But once set, your USB drive will now sit in the directory of your choice. When you go to that directory, you will be on your USB drive.
This might be handy for someone that is running out of drive letters, or...
this might be handy for someone that does not want to remember several drive letters, and would rather have directories that have meaningful names, where each directory is a different USB drive.
Cheers!
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Leo, I downloaded this video, and saved a copy to an external mechanical hard drive, a USB flash drive, a DVD, a CD, LTO tape, reel-to-reel tape, and 51 floppy disks.
I could not find punch cards.
I made 7 sets of everything, to bury a set on each continent.
I am considering making additional sets, for each of our oceans.
And I might make one more set, and place it on Funk & Wagnalls' porch.
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Although Windows will format a drive, to be fat32, note that the formatting will fail if the drive is larger than 32 GB. That is, if you use whatever formatting tools are native to Windows (whether using the GUI (graphical user interface) or via the format.com command line option).
There are many 3rd party tools (some are free and very good) that you can use to format lager-than-32GB-drives to use fat32.
So, for example, if you purchased a 128 GB flash drive, or a 2 TB external drive, etc, you can use the free MiniTool Partition program (www.partitionwizard.com) to format your drive(s) to fat32 (or other formats). Once formatted, Windows will work with the large fat32 drive with no problems.
I believe that for backwards compatibility with older Windows versions (Win98 or WinXP, 32 bit versions), current day Windows will not format fat32 beyond 32 GB, because the older OS's could not handle larger than 32 GB fat32 drives. I guess that when folks were transitioning away from WinXP to Win7 (64 bit), they did not want folks to use their Win7 OS to format a 64 GB drive as fat32, only to have that drive fail when used in the still popular (for that era) WinXP computers. And Microsoft has never changed this position, even with their current Win10 OS.
Cheers!
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Microsoft is simply calling their spyware "AI", because when the public hears "AI", they believe that they have SkyNet on their desktop.
Well, not exactly. But people love "AI". It is all the rage. So call your spyware "AI", and 98% of your battle is won.
It is like companies that call just about any feature "turbo", to imply great power, even though there is 0% relationship to what a turbo charger is.
It is like companies that call just about any feature "HD", even when it has nothing, whatsoever, to do with actual high definition video. Have you seen the advertisements for "HD" glasses? Utter nonsense -- and yet it sells and sells and sells.
So Microsoft just names their spyware "AI", and calls it a day.
If they need more propaganda, maybe they will call it "Turbo AI", or "HD AI", or even "Turbo HD AI". Or, perhaps Microsoft will follow the nonsense from the world of entertainment (movies, TV, etc), and call their spyware "AI+".
People love having Amazon's Alexa microphone in their private homes, listening to every spoken word. Well, those same people will not just welcome Microsoft's "AI" spyware, they are salivating over it.
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@2:59 -- file copy confirmations:
Use "robocopy.exe" via the command line. The /mir (mirror) option is very handy (and dangerous if you screw up).
It will not pester you for confirmations, depending on whether you told it not to.
If you need it to do something complicated, it can.
If you do not want to memorize all of the options you needed to perform a complicated copy procedure, then put robocopy.exe, along with whatever options/switches and arguments that you need in a batch file. Want to see the output, then have it write to a log file with the name of your choosing. It is very powerful, and easy to use.
By the way, www.tgrmn.com makes a commercial program named ViceVersa. It clearly shows you the differences, if any, between any two directories (and their sub-directories), and has easy to use options to copy from here to there, making screw-ups impossible (unless beer is involved). It is amazing.
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@10:14
"Another thing that Honda just nails -- nails it right out of the park; hits a home run, is this steering wheel."
The good:
-- The buttons are well laid out.
The bad:
-- The leather, against your skin, is noisy.
Sliding your hand on the wheel (which is constant and unavoidable) results in hearing "shhh shhh shhh".
-- If you like to keep the tilt steering at its lowest position (near your lap), like I do, then the top of the steering wheel will block approximately ¼ of the top of the dashboard.
Yes, you can lower your seat to compensate. But that means that the steering wheel is no longer near your lap, and you, again, need to reach up higher to hold it (defeating the purpose of keeping the steering wheel in the lowest position).
@16:09
"Of course, you do have the 'Eco' mode..."
In that mode, you will get better gas mileage. However, the car is less responsive, and at times it is frustrating.
If, for example, you need to speed up to get ahead of someone, then when you press on the gas, almost nothing happens. Yes, it does speed up. But not enough to pass a car you need to get passed. Give it enough gas (meaning press down quite a bit on the gas pedal) and the car will jump forward. So it is kind of like nothing, nothing, nothing, and boom.
You kind of feel like you are fighting the car. So if you are in stop-and-go traffic, or alone on the road, then "Eco" is fine. But if you need the car to react, without delay, to the gas pedal, then forget "Eco".
"Sport" mode is the opposite of "Eco". The car is very responsive and fun to drive. Any little tap on the gas is rewarded, without delay. This could, over a long drive, become a little jarring.
The default mode is when neither "Eco" nor "Sport" is enabled (and this is how the car starts, regardless of how it was when you last drove).
Honda did a very good job (in "neigther" mode) in finding just the right balance. You can keep it in this mode and it will be responsive and comfortable and the car will go when you need it to go.
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By the way, this Sport model takes turns really well (better than most people think). It stays planted around turns and has nearly no lean. In "Sport" mode, the suspension stiffens up a bit more and (I believe) lowers the car slightly.
Helping the lateral stability are the low profile tires (minimal sidewall on the tires). This reduces the flexing when taking hard turns (keeps the tire from rolling on its sidewall and keeps the flat part of the tire glued to the pavement).
The downside to this is that if you hit a big pothole, you do not have much room between the tire and the rim. This can result in breaking a rim (where on a car that does not have low profile tires, the rim would stand a better chance of surviving).
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Lastly, the stereo is good, but not great.
You can enjoy it. But you will never forget that you are listening to a stereo.
On better stereos, you simply hear a wall of music, rather than hearing a bunch of speakers.
On better stereos, the speakers disappear (your ears cannot identify their location), and you get a more realistic soundstage and better imaging.
Honda could have done better with this. My 2003 Nissan Sentra's stock stereo is better than the Accord's stereo. Perhaps the cabin is responsible? But Honda has the resources to dial in a better sounding stereo, and they should have.
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I love this Accord (the 2.0 Sport model). Highly recommended. The 2020 model can be had for $28,000 + DMV fees + taxes, if the dealer has it on the lot. They will probably try to add on "prep" fees, and might tell you that by law they have to list it separately. That is true. So in such a case, if the prep fee $800, then your offer should be $27,200. The prep fee could just as easily be named "pure profit" fee.
Good luck!
Cheers!
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I am planning on divorcing myself from Windows, when I purchase my next computer. But I might still need access to my old Windows OS. However, I have no room for 2 monitors and 2 keyboards, etc.
My question is:
Is there a way to put my Windows machine, in its current state, into an .iso file, and have my Linux machine boot up my old Windows machine via the .iso file, resulting in me being able to use my old Windows machine as a guest on my new Linux machine?
If yes, then how do I wrap my current Windows machine into an .iso file?
If no, then is there a different way to have VirtualBox run my old Windows computer?
To be clear, I want to be able to run my old Windows computer as a guest machine, and have it run exactly as it is currently configured (and I understand the performance will be slower, which is not an issue).
Linux is somewhat new to me, and I do not want to lose my old Windows machine, until I am fully functional on my new Linux machine.
Thank you.
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@7:09 "So beyond 42 gigabytes of write, these drives will slow down"
Not exactly (correct me if I am mistaken).
Consider the following statement, which is intentionally wrong:
"The drives store 100% of new data in their faster SLC cache, and only during idle time do they write that data to their slower TLC (or, as the case may be, QLC) NAND cells."
What actually takes place is that while the data is being written to the faster SLC cache, the drive is simultaneously offloading the data to its slower TLC (or, as the case may be, QLC) NAND cells.
So if you were copying 50 gigabytes to the drive in one shot, then...
...by the time you sent 42 gigabytes to the drive, the drive would have already transferred, perhaps, 10 or 20 GB to its slower NAND cells.
So with a 42 GB SLC cache, it takes more than 42 GB of data to keep it full.
Like filling a 42 gallon tank with water, while at the same time people line up and fill their glasses with water from the nozzle. It will take more than 42 gallons to top off the tank.
Also note that, although the drive will slow down, and significantly so, when you fill up the cache, that slow-down is very temporary. The drive will work, non-stop, emptying its cache to the slower NAND cells. So under normal use (where you are not bombarding it with scores of gigabytes of data), it will always run very fast. Just don't think that once you fill the cache and it slows down that you ruined the drive. It will empty its cache and run at full speed, again.
However, the test at the 12:30 time mark, suggests that my above analysis is correct only for the TLC drive.
Apparently, the QLC drive has a cheaper controller, that does not offload its cache while new data is still coming in. When its cache fills up, then it is forced to do so, which is why we saw the slow-down. The less expensive QLC drive allowed its cache to fill up.
The TLC drive would have also slowed down, eventually. But it would have taken more data to fill its cache, because its controller was emptying its cache while new data was coming in to the cache.
Cheers!
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@9:09 -- The flac format supports multiple (lossless) compression levels, including 0 compression.
Presumably, you used your application's default compression value?
My Honda Accord's factory stereo can play flac files, but has a problem advancing to the next song. It takes 3 seconds, which is an eternity -- especially when you are manually trying to jump a few songs forward or backward.
It has no issue with wav files. So I converted all of my music files to the wav format, and my delay issue is gone.
However, the wav format provides next to no metadata. So my car's display will not even show me the name of the artist (it gets listed as "Unknown". And that is all the more problematic, when wanting to search for an artist.
Your video has renewed my interest and might have resulted in my finding a better solution (which I will have to test).
I will convert all of my flac files to non-compressed flac files. My car's stereo might have an easier time with zero compression in the flac format. If that works, I will also have my metadata.
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@12:44 -- MQA is technically lossy. But it deletes samples that contain frequencies above the capabilities of human hearing. Even if someone could hear such frequencies, there is basically no musical content at those frequencies.
@14:06 -- Yes, we lose the ability to hear high frequencies, as we age. But lossy formats do other harm to the sound's fidelity -- such as soundstaging.
However, in order to hear the harm, you need a revealing stereo, professionally set-up.
Most people plop down their speakers where they look best. Most rooms have too many reflections / echoes. So for 99.999% of us, we will probably not hear the harm that lossy file formats deliver. But if you have a revealing stereo, with your speakers properly positioned (feet apart from each other, and from you, and from the back wall, and properly towed in, and properly tilted up or down), and at least some basic room treatments, then for such a stereo, you will hear the difference between a flac file, and an mp3 file that was derived from the flac file.
Well, one more caveat.
Most songs have sub-par or nothing special sound quality. So if the studio did an incompetent job, then the format will not matter.
But if you have some properly mixed and mastered flac files, played on a revealing stereo, etc, then you will hear the difference between a flac file and an mp3 file, even if you are in your senior years.
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@ExplainingComputers Encouraging people to reach for less than participation trophies is conditioning them to have pointless, useless goals.
Encouraging people to SPAM the comments leads to more and more SPAM.
I know it feels good to pat people on the back and say "Good job!".
But doing so, when they have accomplished absolutely zero, is counter-productive.
Doing so dilutes the "Good job!" praise on others, for when those others actually do a good job and earn their praise, for something meaningful. When you tell anyone "Good job!" for any pointless task, then "Good job!" no longer holds any meaning.
Yes, give encouragement. But do so for something worthwhile. Even if it is for simple tasks. As long as it guides people to better themselves.
I know of know no school, class, tutoring program, computer based training, help center, volunteer organizations, social programs, government programs, etc, that promote "First" comments as a sign of upward movement or progress of any kind. It is rewarding inanity.
With 750,000 subscribers, you have influence. Please use it to recognize and reward actual deeds, and not encourage a false sense of accomplishment.
Cheers!
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Are you on other platforms? Which ones?
If not, keeping all of your eggs in the youtube basket is risky.
All you have to do is utter an innocent remark that some elitist at youtube finds offensive, and you can kiss your channel goodbye. In today's cancel culture, of which google is a driver, there are landmines everywhere, and new ones planted daily.
"agadmator's Chess Channel
", with over 1,000,000 subscribers, got yanked, because "black" and "white" were mentioned (because the chess pieces are black and white). It took the host a week or so to get it straightened out, and he was reinstated.
And congratulations on your success. You earned it!
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@10:02 -- I believe it to be a myth to believe that Google does not read customer's documents.
For anyone that believes otherwise, then you should deem it to be safe to do the following test (only a test):
-- Upload documents that threaten the welfare of high ranking government officials, by illegal means.
Again, do not post such documents anywhere. This is only a test. Just upload those document to your own Google Docs account, and see if you get a knock on the door.
You can do the same thing with crimes against juveniles, or large illegal drug activities.
Again, this is all fabricated by you, as a test to see if after uploading those documents to Google Docs, whether you get a knock on the door.
For anyone claiming that Google does not read your documents, then it should not matter what documents you upload to their service.
Some will say that Google uses an algorithm to detect such documents. Well, upon that algorithm tagging your documents, someone read them, that led to the knock on your door.
Anyone know what key words Google searches for in your uploaded documents, that will mark them for review by a Google employee? Since you do not know, then you do not know which documents are being read.
At a minimum, Google likely builds a profile on you.
And it is more than just about your own documents.
If you are a person of interest, then of course executives are probably reading your documents.
If you were a top executive at Google, could you resist looking at documents uploaded by a member of Trump's family, or Obama's family, or movie stars, or CEOs of Fortune 500 companies, etc?
If you decide to run for mayor 10 years from now, will Google be able to check on what you uploaded over the years, and leak it to news channels or to the opposing candidate, or possibly blackmail you into using your public office in their favor?
The fact that Google can look at anyone's documents is a big deal.
Would you use GPG if a 3rd party can view your encrypted files, but claims that they do not?
@11:33 "...for advertising purposes, period."
They could have written that they do not access your documents in any way whatsoever, other than providing you access to your documents. But they did not write that. They wrote one way that they do not access your documents for advertising.
Although I cannot confirm... I will lay odds that no one from the Pentagon is allowed to store documents with Google Docs, or any other cloud service.
Google is the biggest spyware company in the history of our planet. They make oceans of money on knowing everything about us. And we are supposed to believe that they have no interest in the documents that we upload to their service?
Microsoft's One Drive agreement has language that makes any documents you upload the property of Microsoft. All of the cloud storage service agreements probably have similar language.
@14:43 -- RAID keeps your data safer than non RAID (excluding RAID 0).
For example, with RAID 1 or RAID 5, you could lose a drive and lose no data. Everything keeps running.
Without RAID, if you lose a drive, then you will have lost any data since your last backup.
@17:28 -- That was Jerry's fault, for not doing backups.
RAID is not a replacement for backups.
If it is a choice between only RAID and only backups, then choose backups.
But if you can do RAID 1 or RAID 5, and also do backups, then you will be that much more protected from data loss (between the dates you do backups).
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Does keeping your computer running 24/7/365 help or hurt life expectancy?
It is my understanding that mechanical wear is the worst when power is applied. So if left running all of the time, there are never those repeated bursts to get started.
On the other hand, running all of the time also can take its toll on a device with moving parts.
Anyone know which is best? Is it six on one hand, and a half dozen on the other?
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By the way, the data center statistics are not exactly real world relateable.
-- Data centers generally use UPS systems that do double conversion on the power (AC to DC and back to AC). So the connected equipment never sees power directly from the public grid. They run 100% of the time on clean power, and that can only help to improve life expectancy, as compared to the public, who typically plug their computers into a household outlet, and get zapped all of the time (and those small, often unnoticeable zaps, add up).
-- Data centers generally use premium versions of drives for their servers and back-end storage. They typically do not buy the drives that go on sale on newegg.com, so those data center drives are probably built with more reliable parts. Just a guess.
Cheers!
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