Comments by "Marek Sumguy" (@mareksumguy1887) on "Искаженное восприятие" channel.

  1. This is NOT a "vacuum". If you actually measured the local pressure, it would be just barely below atmospheric pressure. Not much of a vacuum.
    26
  2. It’s just as crap as a wankel.
    8
  3. Since this is a "draw through" turbo setup (instead of blow through)... your compressor inducer is reduced now to whatever the carb is (much smaller than the compressor inducer on the turbo). Its like you've put a HIGHLY restrictive "restrictor plate" upstream of the compressor (the compressor inlet). You need to make some holes (or an opening) in the "block off plate" (intake adapter plate) that you made that connects the carb to the compressor inducer. Let some air bypass the carb... so as to not restrict the compressor so much. So now the compressor is sucking in air both through the carb... and by itself. Of course... if you decide to fuel-inject this thing... you can do away with the carb altogether... and just run the injector right in front of the compressor inlet (inducer)... and you won't have any restriction. Use a wideband O2 sensor and tune for around 11.5:1 air to fuel ratio. You'll also have to tune the ignition timing (you'll need programmable ignition) for the boost. To do this properly you'll need knock (detonation) detection gear. Or else you're likely to run into detonation and blow the engine. Make sure also to use high octane race gas to get the most out of the engine... without running into detonation. If you go EFI route... its gonna be a fair bit of work making the fuel system (efi fuel pump, pressure regulator, injector, plumbing)... unless you go to a junk yard and just use a car efi fuel system (and just block off the unused injector bosses in the fuel rail... since you'll only be using one injector). And then you'll need some kind of programmable computer (ECU) to run the ignition and injector. And then you have to learn to use the software to get the right fuel and ignition values. Also you'll need a crank-angle-sensor so the computer knows when the engine is at TDC on the compression/power stroke... so as to get the right ignition timing.
    6
  4. PistonAvatarGuy dude he’s 19!. He’s just an ignorant KID.... possibly a dumbass as well. You clearly run rings around this dumb kid with your knowledge on the matter.
    4
  5. 5thgearouttahere ... friendly Volk, I hear.
    4
  6. You may hear the turbo spinning when its idling at 600rpm... but its most definitely not making any BOOST when idling... its not possible.
    4
  7. I also recommend you make a simple "dyno"; using some kind of viscous coupling (like a torque converter), so you can put the engine under full load.
    4
  8. Joe D'Amato yeah that’s actually a WAY better idea than using mechanical-friction for resistance. 👍👍👍
    3
  9. Yeah you should be using a high quality synthetic (plus an additive as well... like MoS2, or similar). Give the engine the best possible chance. We want structural failure.... not seizure.
    3
  10. ... same garbage.
    3
  11. Anthony Fasano I’m pretty sure it will detonate if you inject it at the turbo. Best bet is liquid injection right in the inlet port.... like DPFI. But even then it might still detonate. I think you’d be better off injecting something in the exhaust (pre turbo) to help it spool and make some proper boost.
    2
  12. This really shows how shit and inefficient these shit wankels are.
    2
  13.  @metaphorpritam  look at the BSFC.
    2
  14. “Warped perspective”?!?!🤣. What’s that like the knock off channel of Warped Perception?? 😂
    2
  15. Yes... i am new here... can you show me around?
    2
  16.  @mastershan87  ... right.
    2
  17.  @WarpedYT  Are you talking about Top Fuel cars? Because they run at around 7-8000rpm. The higher the rpm... the more advance you need. Have you read any books on EFI tuning? I recommend Jeff Hartmans: "How to tune and modify engine management systems".
    2
  18. Brake disc is warped!
    2
  19. @Mijc Osis - You don't seem to know the difference between turbo lag and *boost threshold*.
    2
  20. Do Tungsten next!
    1
  21. #DidntActuallyProduceAnyBoost
    1
  22. That was a very crap experiment.
    1
  23. Also... im guessing you're gonna have boost leaks everywhere with that inlet plumbing. You'll need a 1-2 bar MAP sensor if you go EFI.
    1
  24. You need to make some intake air ducting... to direct clean air into the compressor. You’ll get more thrust.
    1
  25. hehe
    1
  26. How’s the engine coming along? Having trouble with the EFI??
    1
  27. Never use the term “full send”. By doing so you are paying homage to those douche bags from NELK. 🤦🏼
    1
  28. Its called detonation. Like "knocking" or "pinging"
    1
  29. Did you use the engine dyno to tune to MBT the lawn mower engine??
    1
  30. It needs to be like 80% nitro!.
    1
  31. If you're gonna put so much work into an engine... don't you wanna just buy a fresh (cheap ebay) engine??
    1
  32. Since this is a "draw through" turbo setup (instead of blow through)... your compressor inducer is reduced now to whatever the carb is (much smaller than the compressor inducer on the turbo). Its like you've put a HIGHLY restrictive "restrictor plate" upstream of the compressor (the compressor inlet). You need to make some holes (or an opening) in the "block off plate" (intake adapter plate) that you made that connects the carb to the compressor inducer. Let some air bypass the carb... so as to not restrict the compressor so much. So now the compressor is sucking in air both through the carb... and by itself. Of course... if you decide to fuel-inject this thing... you can do away with the carb altogether... and just run the injector right in front of the compressor inlet (inducer)... and you won't have any restriction. Use a wideband O2 sensor and tune for around 11.5:1 air to fuel ratio. You'll also have to tune the ignition timing (you'll need programmable ignition) for the boost. To do this properly you'll knock (detonation) detection gear. Or else you're likely to run into detonation and blow the engine. Make sure also to use high octane race gas to get the most out of the engine... without running into detonation. If you go EFI route... its gonna be a fair bit of work making the fuel system (efi fuel pump, pressure regulator, injector, plumbing)... unless you go to a junk yard and just use a car efi fuel system (and just block off the unused injector bosses in the fuel rail... since you'll only be using one injector). And then you'll need some kind of programmable computer (ECU) to run the ignition and injector. And then you have to learn to use the software to get the right fuel and ignition values. Also you'll need a crank-angle-sensor so the computer knows where in its 720 degree cycle the engine position is.
    1
  33. What are your AFRs ????????
    1
  34. Warped Perception did you tune to MBT??
    1
  35. This is the sloppiest setup iv ever seen in my life. XD
    1
  36. Why are you even using the crap gasket??. Just run it without it!. It will also increase the compression ratio.
    1
  37. Make a custom gasket/spacer out of solid metal... so it won't fail.
    1
  38. Also... the turbo isn't getting anywhere NEAR enough lubrication. It needs a steady oil supply to not seize up (and spin freely). You can make a crude gravity-fed system; where you suspend a large reservoir filled with very low viscosity engine oil. e.g. 0W-20... and just let the head pressure feed the turbo bearing... and then just let it drain into a pan/bucket or whatever.... and then just keep topping up the reservoir so the oil doesn't run out. Or you can do it properly using a cheap little electric oil pump.
    1
  39. WHY DIDNT U RUN IT WITH THE STOCK HEAD!?!?!
    1
  40. 7:55..... AAAAAHAHAAH... really accurate!
    1
  41. This should be interesting. XD Make sure you calculate the right size of injector needed. I think you'll have better luck with Gasoline or Alcohol... you have to upgrade the ignition system considerably to get proper combustion with Nitromethane. Its running ok at low load... but once you start making some boost... it will start misfiring with nitromethane... because the standard ignition system is too weak. I think you're much better off with Gasoline/Alcohol... now that you're gonna have boost. You'll still be able to reach the engines structural limit (read: blow it up!) with Gas or Alcohol.
    1
  42. You really need to get afr readings. Also, it was REALLY stupid to run low octane fuel when experimenting. You’re lucky you didn’t destroy the engine. Although, looking at the head... it looks like you are detonating it.
    1
  43. Warped Perception why would you want to blow it up? Are you just gonna get another one?
    1
  44. You think the Dyno is effective??.... watch at 7:55 XD It wasn't running lean... because it wasn't making any boost. It can never work, the way he has it set up in this video. Look at his intake piping (post/downstream of turbo)... it would probably start leaking boost at like 1-2 psi! The main reason (i believe) i didn't make any boost, is due to too small a carburetor; its choking out the turbo.
    1
  45. Low octane fuel + too much ignition advance = destruction = proper damage.
    1
  46. 10 to 20 times the original power!?? Not even close! More like 2 to 3 times.
    1
  47. How’s the EFI engine going??
    1
  48. Warped Perception don’t waste your time with that crap. Get to the good stuff.
    1
  49. Turbo means nothing... if you're restricting it with a tiny carb.
    1
  50. Hey whats the ignition timing set at??
    1