Comments by "Marek Sumguy" (@mareksumguy1887) on "See Thru Engine on Turbo Nitro and Dyno (How much HP does it make?)" video.

  1. Since this is a "draw through" turbo setup (instead of blow through)... your compressor inducer is reduced now to whatever the carb is (much smaller than the compressor inducer on the turbo). Its like you've put a HIGHLY restrictive "restrictor plate" upstream of the compressor (the compressor inlet). You need to make some holes (or an opening) in the "block off plate" (intake adapter plate) that you made that connects the carb to the compressor inducer. Let some air bypass the carb... so as to not restrict the compressor so much. So now the compressor is sucking in air both through the carb... and by itself. Of course... if you decide to fuel-inject this thing... you can do away with the carb altogether... and just run the injector right in front of the compressor inlet (inducer)... and you won't have any restriction. Use a wideband O2 sensor and tune for around 11.5:1 air to fuel ratio. You'll also have to tune the ignition timing (you'll need programmable ignition) for the boost. To do this properly you'll need knock (detonation) detection gear. Or else you're likely to run into detonation and blow the engine. Make sure also to use high octane race gas to get the most out of the engine... without running into detonation. If you go EFI route... its gonna be a fair bit of work making the fuel system (efi fuel pump, pressure regulator, injector, plumbing)... unless you go to a junk yard and just use a car efi fuel system (and just block off the unused injector bosses in the fuel rail... since you'll only be using one injector). And then you'll need some kind of programmable computer (ECU) to run the ignition and injector. And then you have to learn to use the software to get the right fuel and ignition values. Also you'll need a crank-angle-sensor so the computer knows when the engine is at TDC on the compression/power stroke... so as to get the right ignition timing.
    6
  2. You may hear the turbo spinning when its idling at 600rpm... but its most definitely not making any BOOST when idling... its not possible.
    4
  3. Brake disc is warped!
    2
  4. @Mijc Osis - You don't seem to know the difference between turbo lag and *boost threshold*.
    2
  5. #DidntActuallyProduceAnyBoost
    1
  6. Also... im guessing you're gonna have boost leaks everywhere with that inlet plumbing. You'll need a 1-2 bar MAP sensor if you go EFI.
    1
  7. If you're gonna put so much work into an engine... don't you wanna just buy a fresh (cheap ebay) engine??
    1
  8. Since this is a "draw through" turbo setup (instead of blow through)... your compressor inducer is reduced now to whatever the carb is (much smaller than the compressor inducer on the turbo). Its like you've put a HIGHLY restrictive "restrictor plate" upstream of the compressor (the compressor inlet). You need to make some holes (or an opening) in the "block off plate" (intake adapter plate) that you made that connects the carb to the compressor inducer. Let some air bypass the carb... so as to not restrict the compressor so much. So now the compressor is sucking in air both through the carb... and by itself. Of course... if you decide to fuel-inject this thing... you can do away with the carb altogether... and just run the injector right in front of the compressor inlet (inducer)... and you won't have any restriction. Use a wideband O2 sensor and tune for around 11.5:1 air to fuel ratio. You'll also have to tune the ignition timing (you'll need programmable ignition) for the boost. To do this properly you'll knock (detonation) detection gear. Or else you're likely to run into detonation and blow the engine. Make sure also to use high octane race gas to get the most out of the engine... without running into detonation. If you go EFI route... its gonna be a fair bit of work making the fuel system (efi fuel pump, pressure regulator, injector, plumbing)... unless you go to a junk yard and just use a car efi fuel system (and just block off the unused injector bosses in the fuel rail... since you'll only be using one injector). And then you'll need some kind of programmable computer (ECU) to run the ignition and injector. And then you have to learn to use the software to get the right fuel and ignition values. Also you'll need a crank-angle-sensor so the computer knows where in its 720 degree cycle the engine position is.
    1
  9. Also... the turbo isn't getting anywhere NEAR enough lubrication. It needs a steady oil supply to not seize up (and spin freely). You can make a crude gravity-fed system; where you suspend a large reservoir filled with very low viscosity engine oil. e.g. 0W-20... and just let the head pressure feed the turbo bearing... and then just let it drain into a pan/bucket or whatever.... and then just keep topping up the reservoir so the oil doesn't run out. Or you can do it properly using a cheap little electric oil pump.
    1
  10. 7:55..... AAAAAHAHAAH... really accurate!
    1
  11. You think the Dyno is effective??.... watch at 7:55 XD It wasn't running lean... because it wasn't making any boost. It can never work, the way he has it set up in this video. Look at his intake piping (post/downstream of turbo)... it would probably start leaking boost at like 1-2 psi! The main reason (i believe) i didn't make any boost, is due to too small a carburetor; its choking out the turbo.
    1
  12. Turbo means nothing... if you're restricting it with a tiny carb.
    1
  13. Hey whats the ignition timing set at??
    1
  14. Why do you even have an exhaust downstream of the turbine??. Take it off... less back pressure.
    1
  15. @Cape Cod CNC - 20,000 psi combustion pressure?!?!. You have absolutely NO idea what you're talking about!!
    1
  16. @Cape Cod CNC You really should learn how to read. Heres the excerpt from the article. It clearly says *1595 psi*... not 20,000 psi !! "The supercharger on the Hellcat's 6.2-liter V8 engine makes 11.6 psi of boost, while the forged-steel crankshaft and high strength connecting rods are engineered to withstand 1,595 psi, or the equivalent of nearly 20,000 pounds, pressing on the piston tops every two crank rotations."
    1