Comments by "ke6gwf - Ben Blackburn" (@ke6gwf) on "Project Farm"
channel.
-
At the actual contact point where 2 pieces of metal touch under pressure while moving, the oil forms a film only a few molecules thick (depending on viscosity, temperature, speed of movement, and pressure applied, preventing metal to metal contact.
As long as there is enough oil to provide that few molecule as the part rotates, and to replenish it after each rotation, all the extra oil flinging off is just excess oil.
Since film cling and tenacity and surface wetting are important properties of oil, as long as there is enough oil to fully cover the friction surfaces, the test should be accurate, including the ability of the oil to maintain lubrication with residual amounts only.
11
-
6
-
5
-
4
-
4
-
People ask for wool because it is still the best for being bullet proof, quiet, and warm even when wet.
Yes, you can get warmer and drier high tech products that weigh less, but won't last for years under heavy wilderness use, don't do well around campfires, and decay after a few years and lose their properties.
You can get commercial wool clothing, but it's really expensive, and often doesn't have the same tough as nails quality that classic military wool had.
So for a wilderness survival expert or student, military surplus wool really is the best, much better for the application than high tech synthetic products.
Good Wool can be passed down for generations, not so much the synthetic stuff.
3
-
3
-
3
-
2
-
2
-
2
-
You left out what is pretty much the industry standard for professional metalworkers and welders, the main wheel that welding supply shops and such carry, which is the Walter Zip cut.
You probably won't find it at your home improvement stores like the others, because it is the professional blade, but it's worth going to a supplier to get!
The cut off wheels are available as thin as 3/64 inch, and cut beautifully.
Now, if I am hacking some metal that's torch cut or rusty etc where it's going to tear up the wheel faster, I have a pack of harbor freight wheels that I don't mind burning through, but if I am cutting something thick, or I need a smooth cut, then I use the Zip cut.
I would be interested to see how they compare to the others in an updated video.
2
-
1
-
Do a test including rechargeable, and use the Ansmann 2850 cells, and compare them against the best of the alkaline!
I have been a tech director at a large church for many years, as well doing various special events, and experimented with everything from zinc carbon, to lithium, to all the alkaline brands, and after settling on Duracell alkaline for being the most predictable and reliable (having a microphone die in the middle of a speech from a presidential candidate is just not acceptable! And I have had problems with Energizer not being stable and reliable between batches, but never with Duracell. Which I used for that speech, so it went fine lol)
But then I read an article from an even more experienced tech director who had run the tests on rechargeables, which have never been reliable or long lasting enough for a live stage environment in high drain microphones, and he found the Ansmann, and had converted his entire battery stock to them.
I got a few and tested them myself for a few months, and then got enough for all my applications (I had 60 in their chargers at the end of every event), and after several years, I only had a couple fail, and they performed better than the Duracell, reliably, and cheaper in the long run.
There are 2 styles, regular and slim.
The regular are slightly larger than alkaline and so are a tight fit in certain devices, so I mostly used the slim, but most devices will fit either.
This is where I got the batteries and chargers from, and I have been happy with them, but you may be able to find them elsewhere as well.
I have no affiliation with anyone, just a very happy user!
https://horizonbattery.com/collections/aa-rechargeable-batteries-high-capacity/products/ansmann-aa-2850-mah-slimline-4pk
These are designed to be left on a charger/maintainer all the time, taken off to be used, and returned to the charger.
They don't hold the charge as long, because they are designed for maximum capacity.
They also have the Max E low discharge batteries which have like 30 times lower self discharge, but also lower capacity, but are great for remote controls toys, etc.
And remember that the faster you charge a battery, the faster it will fail because of the higher internal temperatures. So get a good trickle charger/maintainer, and only fast charge if you aren't able to have enough batteries to slow charge, maybe a photographer using them in flashes or something.
1
-
1
-
Project Farm, you tested flow at one temperature extreme, but didn't test the flow or lubricity at operating temperature or above, which is where the engine spends most of its time.
Do any of them get very thin at high temperature? Do they have more wear at high temperature?
How do they compare to single viscosity oils?
(a multi viscosity oil is rated at 2 different temperatures, so 10w 30 should have the same viscosity as a 10 weight when tested at -10 or so (some test as low as -40 I believe) ,and the same as a 30 weight at 212F, which is considered normal operating temperature.
A good multi viscosity will match those numbers, and a bad one will be too thick when cold or too thin when hot, or sometimes do weird things from using low quality viscosity modifiers.
So if you want to test viscosity accuracy, add a single viscosity conventional oil control sample of whatever the W (Winter) rating is (straight 5w etc) in the freezer test, and then repeat the test at 212f using a straight 30 weight conventional oil as a comparison.
I would also do at least one demonstration test on the lubricity tester using a known good brand such as the Mobile 1, or the Rotella T6 when you do diesel oils, and do one test straight out of the freezer, one at room temperature, and one at or as close to 212f as you can safely get, and see if it wears differently.
Then repeat the 3 tests using a 5 weight oil.
(doing it with a 30 weight oil won't be very interesting, because room temperature and hot will be in its normal range, and cold is only a problem for pumping through small oil ports, and being thicker it will have higher lubricity in the tester. When 5 weight gets hot though, it thins out and the film fails and you get bad wear.)
1
-
1
-
1
-
1
-
@ProjectFarm if you left a wider gap in one bucket than in the others, and didn't add extra material to seal the gap, than you induced a variable under your control that skewed the results.
The sealant can neither cause nor remove a crack, it can only attempt to bridge over one.
If 2 buckets had a 1 mm crack, and 1 bucket had a 2 mm crack, and the sealants were applied the same, then the one with a gap twice as wide is obviously going to have twice as difficult a time sealing it.
And since the one on the wide crack was also the clear one without lots of clumpy body, applying it exactly the same as the others over an open crack gives it an even higher handicap.
If you want these tests to be useful and reliable, you need to make sure that you take the actual properties of the product into consideration and use the product properly, instead of trying to keep the application the same, when they need different applications.
I don't care about whether one takes a slightly different application method, though it is good to know, but this test was about the ability of the product to perform once it was applied and cured properly, and if one wasn't applied and cured properly, than the test results are not useful.
It's kind of like testing heavy duty batteries against alkaline batteries.
Of course the heavy duty batteries are going to lose, because they are not being used in their designed application. (they are not designed to be compared to alkaline in other words lol)
1
-
1
-
1
-
1