Comments by "ke6gwf - Ben Blackburn" (@ke6gwf) on "Technology Connections"
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In regards to the oil filled heater, it is more efficient, because you keep your temperature delta lower.
In your example of the 50% duty cycle, you didn't take into account that the standard heater is going to create a higher temperature when it turns on, until it reaches the set temperature and shuts off, and then the room will cool down until the heater turns back on, and if you graph it you will see the temperature going quite a bit above the set temperature, and then dropping below, and when the temperature goes higher, it loses more out the walls and ceiling and such.
With the oil filled heater, it stays at a much more consistent temperature, reducing the peaks, and so not pushing as much heat out of the room.
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@factsarefactsanddonotlie8397 if you have an electric water pump, you measure the amount of kwh of electricity it takes to pump 100 gallons of water from one location to another.
You are not creating water, only moving it from one location to another.
With an Air Conditioner, you are using electricity to move heat from inside the house and sending that heat outside the house, which is why the condenser coil outside gets so hot.
A heat pump reverses this cycle and puts the evaporator coil outside, and the condenser coil inside, and takes heat from the outside air and sends it inside.
Now, just like the water pump uses electricity to move water from one place to another, the heat pump uses electricity to move heat from one place to another.
If you run electricity through a heating coil, all the energy in the electricity gets converted to heat, so if you use one kwh of electricity, you get one kwh of heat.
However if you use that 1 kwh of electricity to run a heat pump, you can now MOVE 5 kwh of heat into the house, most of it coming not from the electricity, but being transfered from the outside air into the inside air.
This is why it gets what you think is impossible efficiency, because it's moving existing heat rather than only turning electricity into heat.
And if you say that this is impossible, then please explain how an AC can magically make heat energy dissappear from inside the house!
I doubt that you will understand any of this and will just flame me too because ego is more powerful than intellect, but maybe this will help you understand the subject a little better.
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@TheCatLady65 , I think you are confusing the meaning of Degree as a division on a scale, with degrees of angle or something.
All Degree means in relation to temperature is a whole number division.
For instance, if you raise the temperature of water, you say that you raised it 100 "degrees". It's just the word that describes the division of temperature scales.
And while Kelvin no longer uses the ° symbol, just K, that was more to streamline notation than anything, and it did used to use the symbol as well. But it's still perfectly understandable to say that you are measuring in degrees Kelvin, especially when outside of a laboratory, so that people understand you.
And, Celsius still uses the °C notation, which is Degrees Celsius, and maybe some obscure source has said to stop using the Degrees designator, but nobody listens to them, and it's still used most of the time by most people, so it's still proper.
And again, Degree is totally compatible with the Metric system, because all it means is the whole division on the scale, going from 1 to 2, etc.
So no incompatibility with metric!
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@factsarefactsanddonotlie8397 you act like you are an expert who somehow became an engineer without learning how to write or communicate, and like you are superior to everyone, but you keep contradicting yourself and saying crazy things.
Just a minute ago you said that there was a difference between a fridge and an AC, and that I was wrong, but now you are saying that they are basically the same.
Also, a lot of fridges do have a fan on the coil, and many HVAC systems, especially mini splits, have defrost capabilities as well.
So the main difference in a fridge is that it's cooling a small highly insulated box rather than a room.
And yes, some small or old fridges have imbedded coils in the walls and no fan, but they usually don't have a defrost cycle either, or use heat tape for the defrost etc.
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@factsarefactsanddonotlie8397 now I don't know what you are thinking about. I am talking about residential heat pumps for heating and cooling a house, the most common type being the mini split design, which is exactly an AC, because it IS an AC with a reverser valve that flips the flow depending on whether you need heating or cooling.
So in the summer time it works like every other AC, using the same refrigeration cycle to transfer heat from inside the house to outside the house, and then in cold weather one valve flips and now it moves heat from outside the house into the house.
You could literally take a window air conditioner and put it in backwards and it would pump heat into the house.
Yes, there are also industrial heat pumps that look just like industrial refrigeration equipment, but no one is talking about them here, but even then, the only difference between an industrial refrigeration unit and a heat pump is that the heat pump has an extra valve that reverses the condenser and the evaporator coils so the heat moves the opposite direction.
I also agree that insulation etc will save you more money than switching to a heat pump, but that's a separate issue.
A heat pump, properly designed and sized for the application, under most conditions, will produce a certain amount of heat cheaper than gas heat or resistive electric heat. In some situations it will be much cheaper, in others only slightly cheaper, but in nearly all cases it is simply a more efficient source of heat since it is moving existing heat rather than creating it.
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The problem with aftermarket led headlights is that many of them don't get the leds in the right position to simulate the original filament, and so the reflector doesn't get it focused into a nice beam.
The led design needs to be different between a projector headlight and a reflector headlight, and each headlight housing has a slightly different design.
If you don't get the correct match then you will blind everyone.
I needed to upgrade my semi truck to leds (halogen was too dim for safety, and I got tired of paying for the short lived and expensive High Brightness Krypton ones, so I decided to go with led).
It took me quite a while looking at articles and reviews and YouTube video reviews showing the beam patterns of different brand leds in different headlight housings before I finally settled on a couple of brands that looked like they might work, and then I pulled my truck up to a white dock wall and used a sharpie to mark the outline of the beam pattern with the halogen bulb.
Then I put an led in one side and compared the beam pattern etc, and then tried the other brand.
I found one of them matched every point on my markings EXACTLY, while the other one was a bit wonky.
So I put the good one in the low beams, and put the one with poor beam control in the high beams where it won't effect anyone, and I am happy with the results.
I also carefully re aimed the headlights afterwards, and parked on a level street and walked to the other end of the block to check for glare, etc, and I never have anyone flash me in complaint lol
But most people don't go to that much work, and don't even know there is a difference, and so blind everyone.
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@factsarefactsanddonotlie8397 a refrigeration system and an Air Conditioner work exactly the same way. There are many different ways to design the system, capillary tubes, expansion valves, etc, but the refrigeration cycle is the same throughout all of them.
When liquid evaporates into a gas, it absorbs heat, and when a gas goes to the lower energy state of a liquid, it releases heat.
An air conditioner, heat pump or refrigerator uses a pump to take gas, compress it and run it into the condensing coil where it releases heat and turns into a liquid.
This liquid then flows to the evaporator coil, through an orifice or expansion valve, where it sprays the liquid out onto the surface of the heat exchanger coil, and the ambient heat gets absorbed turning it into a gas, which then flows back to the compressor to repeat the cycle.
Is that technical enough for you?
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@factsarefactsanddonotlie8397 that's hilarious.
It sounds like you were having to Google search to see if I was telling the truth, which is why your argument keeps changing! I have not done a single Google search or fact checked anything in this conversation, because I already know this stuff! I am typing this all on my phone, and sometimes when I open Chrome while typing a message in YT, the message gets lost, so I don't even do that anymore, and I certainly didn't need to for this basic of a coverage of the concepts.
I work with this stuff, so I don't need to plagerize. But if that's the best gas lighting you can come up with, that I write like other experts do on the same subject, then I don't have anything further to prove.
But at least I made you search the subject to try to prove me wrong, and maybe you learned something about it, so I won!
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@Kalvinjj Japan has dual frequencies because they are separate islands, and literally like a century ago one island had a power company that bought US generators putting out 60hz, and the other island bought European generators putting out 50 hz, and it didn't matter because they were small generators and there was no connection between the islands, so one island just bought equipment and appliances from Europe, and the other one from the US.
Then as the grid was developed and more industry and power plants were added, they just kept building out the existing standard, because there was no issue with it.
And by the time someone realized that it might cause a problem, it was far too large an infrastructure on both systems to make the change, since you have to change out all the generators and power plants and motors on everything, so they are basically stuck on the two standards.
Now to interconnect the two grids, they have to use High Voltage DC to bridge them.
And unless you are traveling between the two islands regularly, it's not really an issue, because again, one uses standard European equipment, and the other uses standard US equipment, and China makes both! Lol
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@christo930 you don't have a clue.
The semi I am sitting in right now gets better fuel mileage at 80k pounds than my old pickup truck lol
And while I may use 4 times the fuel of the average car on the road at a slightly higher tax (it's cheaper when you are a commercial vehicle than what the sign on the pump says), I weigh 26 times as much,, and road damage is exponential with weight, so no, I don't pay my fair share lol
Also, very little power is generated by coal in the US anymore, and it decreases every year. And the places that still have coal fired power plants are also less likely to have a lot of evs.
In addition, oil production and gasoline refining takes a lot of electricity as well, so you have to include the emissions from the entire oil pumping, transportation, refining etc infrastructure, as well as the tail pipe emissions when comparing gasoline to EVs.
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@DrewskisBrews the reason Base 10 became common was for higher math. Adding and subtracting became much easier.
But it's not always logical in real world daily life, which is why so many old systems used 12 or 60, because it made sense when not being used for lots of calculations.
For instance, while MM and CM and Meter are very logical mathematically, they aren't very user friendly for a carpenter, because mm is too small for easy use and CM is not fine enough for most carpentry, and Meter is way too big, and nothing in between.
And because the cm and mm aren't far apart, the cm isn't very useful, so generally things are measured in mm, into the thousands of mm.
With the USC system, you have the inch as the base unit, and it's easy to visualize, easy to see, and when you need smaller than an inch, you just pick whatever fraction fits your needs, depending on the tolerances.
And then you can measure in inches, or inches and feet, etc, depending on your scale and needs.
I spent a while doing carpentry, and I have tried doing it in metric, and I find that USC just fits the job better, probably because it was developed by people doing the actual work, rather than theorists.
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@thedeadpoolwhochuckles.6852 if you think about the number of high precision certified scales in use in every manufacturing facility, factory, packing plant, laboratory, truck stop, lumber mill, store, Cannabis shop, pharmacy, etc etc etc, you would realize that a scale technician is most certainly a thing, because someone has to install and repair and calibrate all of them! Lol
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While you all think that this looks extremely complicated and impossible to understand or design, the funny thing about relay logic is that it's really simple, and most of you could figure out how to make a device that would do this if given a pile of relays and such. (or a virtual environment like ladder logic for a PLC.)
The difference is, it would look ugly and take up a whole room! Lol
The brilliance that these guys showed isn't really designing a machine to do all that, it's in making it so beautiful and compact and refined, all packed into such a nice layout with a minimum of components.
You are probably looking at this as the big picture, and it's unimaginable to design it, but if you break down each function needed to the basic level, it's pretty easy to design a system to do it, and then you just start stacking layers and adding interconnections.
There are a few bits that are more advanced, but mainly because it includes the mechanical design, but most of this is as simple as the latching relay in the first video, just layered up.
But, the way they layered it and massaged it into a work of art is delicious!
Almost as amazing as this video series, layered with humor tightly integrated into technology and videography, with a subtle garnish of sarcasm drawing it all together.
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@Cancer McAids wow, you just made my brain hurt, in a good way!
It took me a few minutes to process what you said, but you are so true, we think if 10 to be this perfect round number, because that's what we are used to, but if you think about it, 10 could equal Twelve, if you had 2 additional named digits in there, and the math would be just the same.
(Zero, One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, Nine, Gorp, Epsiloff, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 1§, 1€, 20...)
Like I said, I it made my brain hurt! Lol
So I guess that the 10 base system is very childish, as in its based on the number of fingers that we have.
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@takix2007 you are falling into the old metric argument of making up measurements to show how stupid they are lol
We don't use 1/5th of an inch!
If I was cutting a 2x4 to fit a space that was say, 80 1/5", chances are I would only need 1/4 inch tolerances, and so would go to 1/4 inch.
If I was cutting trim, I might go to 3/16, but 1/16 is about as accurate as you can get cutting wood normally.
If I was doing something like super fancy cabinet work I could go to 7/32, but that's getting into fine sandpaper to get that close.
If I was making something small, a cripple under a bathroom window header or something, where I wanted it a tight fit and it was a short piece, I personally would probably measure it to 7/32, just to get it close, and also be extra careful actually doing the cut.
That's one of the great things for carpentry about USC, is that you can choose how small you want your units to be on the fly, depending on the precision you need.
And if you are good, you measure once and cut once.
Measuring twice is only if you are unsure of your skill, or need to take multiple measurements in different places to check for things being out of alignment.
And in metric countries, the plans are generally in MM. Thousands of MM.
For instance, a sheet of plywood is sold as 1220x2440mm, etc.
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@takix2007 plans usually are in inches and fractions.
Though for long distances they may choose to call it out in feet and inches, but then inches are your smallest unit, and you aren't dealing with fractions.
And no, if your tolerance is half an inch, you call out the nearest half inch or higher line. (it could be a full inch)
If your tolerance is 1/16 of an inch, you call out the nearest 1/16 or higher line (which could be 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or a whole inch.)
If you were looking at a USC tape it would make sense, because each smaller fraction uses a smaller line, and so it's basically about how far you drill down when you are reading the tape.
So if I am throwing studs in, I don't look down at anything smaller than 1/4 inch, unless it needs more accuracy, and then I can look at smaller lines, but I can easily switch how close I get.
With a metric tape, you have cm, and then mm, so you have to count mm, or estimate the count, and I just find that harder to do.
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@takix2007 I agree that once you are used to a system, you don't really want to, or need to, change, anymore than changing the language that you speak. And I often use language as an analogy when comparing USC and metric.
However, just like some languages are easier to express some things in, so to, some things are easier done with USC (which was specifically put together with the trades in mind, and how they naturally used units), and some things are easier to do in Metric, which was specifically designed for scientific and theoretical uses.
And in each case, it was created by the users for their purposes.
USC was done by groups made up of the different manufacturers and such, and USC by scientists.
How much carpentry have you done personally?
You may think in theory that it's the same, but I have done it both ways, and USC is easier.
And I do use metric when it makes sense, and while my first language is USC, I do appreciate where metric is better.
Just like I know some Hebrew and Greek and Latin for use in theology and botany.
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@takix2007 if I lived in a metric country, obviously I would need to use their system lol
And if I use a system for a while, it would become natural for me, and I would find ways to make it easier, and I totally don't expect you to understand the work flow when you are in a different environment where it's not really an option for you anyway.
When I am working off of blueprints, I need to use the system they use, but when I have been doing personal projects, I have tried doing it in metric to see the benefits (since the math is easier basically), and while there are some benefits, I missed the shortcuts and better sized units that inches and fractions come with.
If there were a unit somewhere between CM and Metre, it would make things a little easier, but that's why everyone just uses mm generally.
One thing that I really appreciate about USC (United States Customary, which shares some units, but is different from Imperial in several ways) is that we have options about what units to use for the work we are doing.
For instance, carpentry is normally in feet and inches, but grading and earthworks usually use feet and tenths of a foot.
Since when you are setting grades you are having to do lots of math, and you don't need accuracy less than an inch, tenths just make it fit the needs.
And if I am doing metal working, I will probably be using either decimal inches or thousandths, depending on what the tolerances are.
Wood by nature is imprecise, so using a more flexible fractions system matches the job.
And yes, it is more complicated to learn multiple units and systems, but when a system is tailored to a specific task, if you are doing that task frequently, it saves you time in the long run.
And metric is just less flexible in that regard.
You have to apply the same set of units to everything.
It's kind of like the difference between English, and a native language.
In English, we take words from whatever language has a useful word, and add it to English, sometimes modifying it to work best for us.
In other languages, sometimes things are a lot more clumsy to express, because you are confined to that language.
USC was specifically designed using the logical units, as needed by various users, refined from the old units, and modified as needed.
Metric was designed by white lab coats, and then everyone has to figure out how to fit their needs to the old system, because it's perfect, therefore you can't change anything to make it more versatile lol
But, since you are in a metric country, you really don't have any choice, so it's just theory to you, although, since lumber generally is still based on US standard sizes, I suppose that you could do carpentry the same way I do, once you got it home from the lumber yard lol
And I know that in some metric countries, the carpenters use a mix of USC and metric, depending on what works easiest for a particular situation.
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@TechnologyConnections the key is the difference in Curie temperature between the magnet and magnetic alloy.
So, the Curie Point is 215 Degrees F or whatever for the alloy in the button, but just a random Google search showed me a site saying that their cheap ferrite magnets could be used safely up to 480 degrees F, and in some cases even higher.
So, it sounds like the magnetic alloy button has an especially low Curie temperature, and so even if the magnet itself got to the same temperature, it would not even be close to its Curie temperature.
In addition, there would be a tendency for the magnet to stay cooler due to poor heat transfer dynamics, and when the button reaches the temperature, the magnet pulls away and starts cooling down, so probably never reaches higher than 212, if that.
But the magnet being much higher Curie is the key factor.
Oh, and you could probably do great doing infomercials, you sounded just like it at the beginning of the video! Lol
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@ArniVidar I said that most outlets in the US (in newer houses anyway) are on 20 amp CIRCUITS.
In other words on a 20 amp breaker with minimum 12 gauge wire to the outlet.
The wall outlets themselves are generally 15 amp style outlets, but you can upgrade the outlet itself to a 15/20 amp combo outlet and still be legal, since the circuit is a 20 amp circuit.
We can't even use 14 gauge romex over here anymore, 12 is the minimum.
It is true that 1500 watts is the most common maximum current for small household appliances, but it's easy to find 1800 watt heaters (which you can use on a 15 amp outlet if that's the only load).
They usually go with 1500 watts, because that's generally plenty of power, and because it's common for outlets to have other loads on them, and if you pushed right to the maximum, you would have more tripped breakers and issues.
Also, a lot of our older houses still have 14 gauge wire and 15 amp circuits, and you don't want to load them with the maximum on older installations.
But generally on a newer house you can get 20 amps from the wall outlet LEGALLY, by only swapping the outlet itself out and not putting anything else on that circuit.
New single family residential homes in the US, at least in many states, are required to have a Minimum of a 200 amp service and main breaker.
Older homes generally have at least a 100 amp service and breaker, with the oldest tiny houses with the original actual fuse box still installed might be 60 amp, or really old ones down to 40 amp fuses.
A standard electric dryer or stove for us runs on a 30 amp circuit and outlet, while a big electric stove and oven may have a 50 amp outlet. 50 amp outlets are also often used to plug in a "caravan" or rv.
So most laundry rooms or garages in the US will have a large 30 amp 110/220 volt outlet to run a dryer as standard equipment, unless it's designed to only use a gas dryer.
I suspect that the difference is that we label things at 110, and you label them at 220, so they would be 15 amp and 25 amp circuits to you at 220 volts.
I believe that you only have a single wire that goes through your main breaker for instance, so a 50 amp main breaker for you is the same amount of watts as a 100 amp 2 pole breaker for us, since we use split phase with each leg of 110 getting its own breaker, though the handles are tied together so they trip together.
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Major error at 6:55.
You state that the center wire is Ground, which is simply wrong lol
Ground will be bare or green marked. Neutral is white marked.
Technically in official language it would be a GroundED Conductor, whereas the green or bare wire would be the GroundING Conductor.
And while both are connected to the earth ground rod, neither have any function requiring it under normal circumstances.
Earth ground is exclusively there to drain off static charge and lightning, and has nothing to do otherwise with the operation of the electrical system (thus why you can operate off a generator or inverter with no ground rod)
So that center wire is a bonded neutral, meaning that it's bonded to the Grounding Conductor, and having nothing to do with the ground rod, because you wire rvs, boats, planes, ships etc the same way, no ground rod needed.
Also, other than the mentioned static buildup or lightning, no current will ever flow to the ground rod.
As a matter of fact, the resistance of the ground rod is so high, that you could take a hot wire from a 15 or 20 amp breaker and attach it to the ground rod, and not enough current will flow to trip the breaker!
And while none of this may seem important, I think that you would agree that using the correct name for things is important, especially when trying to do an instructional video.
It's also important since many people think that current flows to the ground rod lol
Oh, and the purpose of bonding the neutral and ground wire is simply to give a path back to the power plant via the neutral for any current on the ground wire from a shirt circuit, allowing the breaker to trip.
If the ground wire was only connected to the ground rod, the breaker would never trip because almost no current would flow.
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One thing that you missed is that some thermostats, including some of the older programmable thermostats use a form of PID Tuning to reduce temperature overshoot.
Basically when heat is commanded by the time the air gets to the set point at the thermostat and the heat is commanded off, the heater is still producing heat, and that heat will still get pushed out into the room, causing overshoot as the temperature rises well above the set point.
This is especially true with electric baseboard heaters and such, where the heat gradient across the room to the thermostat can be steep.
So the PID thermostats monitor how far the temperature exceeds the set point, and on the next cycle they command the heater off at a slightly lower temperature, and see how close it is, and continue reducing the set point until the final temperature is the desired temperature.
This keeps a more even temperature, and saves energy by avoiding the spike.
It also can effect how fast a room heats, and like with a two stage system, actually makes it where turning the thermostat up higher than desired will heat the room up faster, because you keep pumping heat in, rather than just letting it settle gradually.
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To clarify a key point, all current flowing from the outlet will end up returning to the neutral wire at the power pole, whether through the proper path, or through your stupid butter knife poking self! If it flows through you, it will end up going to a water pipe, a safety ground circuit, wet concrete etc, but will end up back at the ground rod or pipe bonding wire, etc, and flow back to the main panel where the Neutral wire is Bonded to the Grounding system, and thus return to the neutral wire on the pole.
Remember that all current requires a complete circuit in order to flow, so in order to have a ground fault, the electrons still need a path to return to the Source, be it the power plant, generator, solar panel, battery, etc.
The soil doesn't magically soak electricity up, and it's a horribly high resistance if you try to use it as one side of the circuit to source.
In fact, you can drive a long ground rod, and connect it directly to a 15 amp circuit breaker, and the breaker won't trip, because the resistance is so high very little current will flow, but what DOES flow is simply going to the nearest bonded ground rod to get back to the Source.
The key purpose for ground rods is to bleed off static and lightning, and to reference the Neutral wire to be the same potential as the soil, water pipes etc.
Think of standing barefoot on a metal plate, with a car battery sitting on the plate. If you touch either terminal of the battery, no current will flow, because there is no connection between the battery and the metal plate.
If you now connect a wire from one terminal of the battery to the plate, that plate now carries the potential of that terminal, and is Bonded to it.
Now if you touch the bonded terminal, nothing happens, because you are already at the same potential.
And it doesn't matter if it's the positive or negative terminal bonded.
That becomes the reference voltage.
If you are getting power from a generator, you can bond either the hot or the neutral to the ground rod if you want, and that becomes the Earth Reference.
So if you bonded the Hot to Earth, you can touch the hot wire while standing in the pool, and get no shock because they are the same potential.
Sadly, if you touch the frame of the generator, you will die painfully, so don't ever do this! Lol
This becomes important when dealing with transformers, because you have to pick which leg is bonded, what you want to reference to Earth.
I was working in an industrial facility once, and in the evenings, the neutral wire would become 110v to ground, and the hot wire would be zero volts to ground.
Then in the daytime it would be normal again.
I started looking at the Big Picture™ (© 2018 HVACR Videos) and discovered that that mechanical room was being fed by a single 3 phase circuit to the main 3 phase panel on in it, and then there was a buck boost transformer feeding the 110/220v panel which ran all the lights and outlets etc.
After some testing, I discovered there was an outside light with a photocell, that had a shorted out ballast, and that the electrician who installed the system had not bonded the center tap on the transformer to Earth ground, and so it was a floating system.
So when the photocell turned on, it bonded one of the 110 v transformer legs to earth ground, driving the center tap neutral to 110v away from ground, and since the shorted out light was the only place the transformer was connected to ground, there was no fault current to trip a breaker....
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face-palm
Good thing you are so enjoyable to listen to, because you suck at drawing accurate schematics! Lol
If you want to post/email a good picture of the schematics etc, I would be happy to trace out the mystery circuit release. Figuring out relay logic (not always with a schematic lol) was what got me started in industrial automation. I might still remember a little bit...
Some of the early computers that my dad ran were programmed by setting switches and installing jumper wires, or before that were entirely mechanical, so in the same way this IS digital computing, with the input being 3 bits (power, B, and 4)and then displaying the answer audibly lol
But I agree that your title was still accurate.
Also, the rotary contact arms are called Wiper arms or Wipers, not feeler arms.
Other than those things, another excellent video and enjoyable presentation!
Now, find some hope in this current situation, and keep breathing, because humans and this society are very resilient, and there is still Hope to be found. So follow the hope!
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Truck driver here.
I notice that the lane divider markers are much less visible, and tend to only reflect for a short window of distance in a truck.
When you think about the angles involved with them being so low, compared to a roadside sign etc, it makes sense.
But also, different styles and companies reflect differently, so some roads I can see the Morse code for miles, and others just a few feet in front of the truck where my eyes and headlight align with the reflector, but before it cuts off at the edge of the corner cube.
You may think that we may have a harder time seeing signs because our eyes are higher, but you have to remember that our headlights are higher also, and I don't think the angle is really much greater between the outgoing and reflected light for a roadside sign, as compared to a car, where both lights and driver are lower.
And we are higher into the sweat spot for overhead signs.
It's just surface reflectors that suck lol
I have noticed the red reverse side to freeway reflectors, sometimes on new road work you will see where one got out on backwards!
One time I was driving down this road, and they ALL were on backwards! It was quite odd...
All the other drivers seemed to be confused by it too, all driving the wrong way... (/joke)
It's always cool when I am driving away from the setting sun under just the right conditions, and all the red side reflectors on the opposite side of the road are on fire from the sunlight.
Speaking of corner cubes, in your surveyor stock footage, not a single corner cube appeared lol
They were using GPS units... APOLOGIZE!!
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It's funny how most of the problems you mentioned with the integrated fixtures are mostly YOU problems, since you are OCD picky over lights lol
Most people won't be bothered if there are different color temperature lights in the same room, just like in the incandescent days most people had both a fluorescent ceiling fixture in the kitchen, along with gasp! incandescent bulbs in other lamps and devices, and very few people had a stroke!
Yes, it can be a pain when the exact fixture is no longer available, but that's no different than what happens if a socket gets burned or the glass for a classic orange boob light gets broken, and you have to put in something that doesn't quite match.
So either you find something close, or you replace the whole set, or you shift the good ones around and put the non matching replacement in the closet or around the corner, or in the guest room, where it won't clash directly.
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@TheRip72 wrong on several counts. Lol
0 is an easily reproduced mixture of equal amounts of water, ice, and a salt.
32 is easily reproduced as equal amounts of water and ice.
And he originally considered body temperature to by 96 degrees.
I haven't seen anything that 100 was supposed to reference specifically, but it wasn't body temperature, since that was 96.
After his death, it got recalibrated a little bit, and that's how body temperature shifted to 98.6~
He started this because he was figuring out how to use the new and more accurate mercury thermometer, instead of the older alcohol style.
I suspect that he made the scale based on the range of the thermometer that he was using, so basically divided the actual glass tube into degrees, and then measured different things and looked at where they fell on the tube.
Ice, water and salt was probably the coldest thing he could easily make, so setting it as zero made sense, and then likely it was based on a tube of a certain diameter and markings a certain distance apart.
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A. I had no issues figuring out how to use the smooth edge style, just fiddled with it lol
B. I have run into a lot of incompatible can seams that it would not work on, because the metal was thicker or the seam was a different shape, so I have basically gone back to the regular style, though I only am happy with the good heavy duty style, and would toss any of the wimpy ones in your video out the window! Lol
I also don't like how many cranks the smooth edge style takes, and while being able to fit the lid back on is handy, in about 5 percent of the cans I open, it's not a killer feature most of the time.
And yes, if I am going to be reaching into a can, not having the sharp edge is nice, and sometimes the pull top can lip is annoying, but really, how often do we stick our whole hand into a can, compared to dumping it out or, you know, using a utensil?
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Time for more corrections. Too much wrong information in this video.
THHN is a specific grade of insulation in single conductor wires, specifying the temperature rating, cut protection etc.
Romex is not nor does it contain THHN wire.
THHN is the type of wire that will often be used to connect the meter to the main panel, or inside equipment, and is only used in conduit or inside equipment enclosures.
It's what you will find on spools as individual conductors.
THHN has a 90 c temperature rating, while NM/B such as Romex (which is the trade name for NM/B cable sold by Southwire) is rated at 60 C.
Secondly, while Romex is often color coded THESE DAYS, the color code didn't come about until not that long ago, and even now it's a voluntary standard, so while most use it, it's not reliable, you have to read the marking on the cables.
If you have an older house, chances are that all the Romex type cable will have a white sheeth.
The reason a coiled up cable can overheat isn't just because of possible but unlikely lack of air flow, but, wait for it, induction and basically acting like a transformer coil.
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You need to do a video on cold air intakes on engines and why it helps, because you clearly don't understand the principles lol. It is to get more air into the cylinder by reducing volume.
A cold air intake, or an intercooler on a turbo charged engine, is there to increase the density of the air, thus making it possible to fit more air into the cylinder, because the engine works by heating the air up and making it expand.
So if you put hot air in, it's already partly expanded and so you get less power.
Think about how a turbo is trying to squeeze more air in by increasing the pressure, doesn't it make sense to decrease the temperature as well?
This is also one of the reasons water injection is used in some performance engines, because it cools and densifies the charge air.
Nitrous injection also does this.
So on an ICE, cooling the intake air is entirely to increase density, and the amount of air that will fit in the cylinder, thus having more air that can expand a greater amount when it's heated.
Remember that an ICE is still a heat differential engine and so the greater the heat differential, the greater the potential power.
For clean combustion however, preheating the air is very helpful and important, because if you preheat the combustion air, it allows the flame temperature to be higher, leading to a more efficient combustion.
Industrial oil burners often preheat the air with exhaust heat for this purpose. Google "preheating air for combustion" etc.
So if your end result needed is expansion (ICE, turbine engines, rockets, etc), then you want to have your intake air as cold and dense as possible, (see SpaceX superchilling their propellant), but if you are just going for heat production, preheating is important.
I will also mention carb heat on planes and the old engines that had heat stoves or the intake manifold heated by the exhaust manifold.
That is very in-ideal, but to solve a problem with gasoline not evaporating properly, either due to the use of carberators that didn't evaporate the fuel well, or due to the cold temperatures in high altitude air.
But generally the cars with those features were not high performance cars, or they had thermostatic dampers on the heat stove, so it only helped while the engine was cold and then shut off the heat.
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I really don't like your revisionist history, talking about all the other brands and models currently using CCS, and ignoring the fact that for most of the existence of Tesla, they WERE the defacto industry standard, simply because they had almost no competition.
Not to mention that the BetaChademo standard was competing against the VHSccs until just recently, so getting bitter against Tesla is well misplaced.
Also you left out that Tesla attempted to get the other manufacturers to sign on and use the much superior Tesla standard, but the other manufacturers wanted to pretend that Tesla didn't exist, and so they created a second design.
Plus, Tesla built out most of its supercharger network before CCS really took off or there WERE any other options for Tesla drivers.
So while you have valid concerns about the situation for Tesla drivers, the way you go about bitching about the industry leader is pretty petty.
Remember that without Tesla having built out such a large proprietary network, we wouldn't HAVE a robust EV market today, because Tesla literally had to create the infrastructure before people would buy the cars, and so the giant proprietary network was not an option, but the only way to do it.
Now that the company is stable with plenty of cash flow, and they are able to install chargers faster than they can build cars, and there are just beginning to be 3rd party alternative charging networks that actually work, they are starting to move towards making it so Tesla's can at other networks easily, and also opening up the Supercharger network to other brands, but only as they are able to expand the network so that the Tesla owners don't have to wait for a line of Ioniqs at a Tesla facility.
If you were a Tesla owner, you would be happy that you don't have to deal with all the other EVs on the road charging at "your" station, kind of like how only Costco members can get gas at Costco.
As I see Tesla building chargers in every shopping center and restaurant district and random farm fields along the freeway in the middle of nowhere, some with hundreds of stalls, just a few miles down the road from others with hundreds of stalls, I see them getting to the point where they can start opening up to other brands, and just continue rolling them out as fast as they can get permits.
It's kind of like how they aren't rushing to introduce more car models until they get production ramped on the existing models and have headroom to take on a new challenge, they had to get their network expansion ramped up fast enough to be able to handle outside customers, rather than just serving the Tesla fleet.
And since all the early Model S cars that were built before CCS even was spawned from the pits of committee hell are STILL on the road, they couldn't just stop installing new Tesla connecters, because they would have had to retrofit all the older cars, as well as all the existing chargers, home chargers, etc.
You treat it like it's saying that Apple should sell new phones with USB C, when really it's more like Apple having to upgrade the last 5 years of phones to work with USB C, and send out new chargers and battery packs to all their customers.
Oh, and most Tesla owners would not WANT to "downgrade" from Tesla to CCS! Lol
So I look forward to the adapter coming out to give Teslas charging options, and a slow rollout of CCS capabilities at Supercharger stations to allow 3rd party charging.
Probably only a few stalls with CCS, and the rest are still reserved for the only currently large fleet of EVs in the US!
(I have seen just 2 Ioniq5s in California so far, one of them today. I like the looks of it as much as I want to wear your brown tweed jacket.... Smirk)
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@TheMax13542 most houses that I have ever been in that have ducting have poor design and don't get even distribution.
Yes, zoning etc is possible, but most houses don't have zoning, and installing it after the fact gets real expensive real quick.
So if you have a well designed central ac system already, then replacing it with a traditional heat pump is obviously the best option, but if you have a central ac that freezes one side of the living room and one bedroom, but leaves the other bedrooms roasting on the sunny side of the house, or if you have one person who likes sleeping in a cold room and another who likes sleeping in a warm room, then mini splits all of a sudden make a lot of sense, because you can control each room individually, which pretty much no central system allows.
In addition, if you are able to only heat or cool the specific rooms in use, rather than keeping the entire house at the same temperature, you may be able to save considerable energy.
Plus, if you have uninsulated attic ducts, undersized ducts, dirty ducts, etc etc, the central system loses a lot of efficiency, which again can't be solved without a major and expensive central heating system upgrade.
So you have to look beyond just the box sitting outside, and at the whole system, and remember that most house central air systems are built as cheap as possible, and usually suck.
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The thing that you failed to mention as you repeatedly complained that the world leader in EV innovation hadn't invested millions of dollars in upgrading every existing car to a new charging port, is that Tesla uses a "proprietary" connector, BECAUSE THEY WERE FIRST, and nd they attempted to get the industry to use the same connector as the standard, but certain other car companies hated Tesla, and so refused to use the standard, and developed their own competing standard.
By this time however, Tesla had lots of customers using the Tesla connector, and had invested billions into building out their Supercharger network, which is what has made worldwide EV adoption possible, because people see that it works if you build the infrastructure, which no car company wanted to do.
So now in order to change to the late comer standard, they would have to invest billions in upgrading the existing US Tesla fleet charge ports, home chargers, destination chargers and Superchargers to the new port, and do it all at once so that no customer with free lifetime charging got stranded at a Supercharger with the wrong port.
And if you think that someone with a $100k car is going to be happy having to use an adapter, you are wrong!
Also, most Tesla owners don't want the change, because one of the value added benefits of owning a Tesla is that you don't have to compete with all the other makes at a charging station.
You are part of a dedicated ecosystem that is expanded as needed as more Tesla's are sold, rather than having to fight for space with cars that don't contribute to the build out of more chargers.
It's kind of similar to why it's not likely the US will convert to metric, because it would cost billions of dollars to do, with very little benefit for the average person.
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