Comments by "Jam Ram" (@jamram9924) on "Best and Worst Used Toyota's to buy and Toyota Buying Advice" video.

Don’t forget to have your transmission serviced (filter change and flush if possible with no chemical additives) Common practice to perform this at 50,000 miles as a great preventative measure.
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Looking for a slightly used Tundra to replace my 2007 Tundra. I have several buyers lined up, but these prices are much higher than they were in the winter.
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@seanpop2886 I do a flush at 50,000 and then 100,000 and then drop and fill thereafter. I replace any filter that is serviceable and also clean the pan/magnets inside. A simple fill/refill doesn’t do this. To each their own….
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@seanpop2886 my father rebuilt engines after his job dealing with huge diesel mining trucks. Eventually, he got into transmissions and they were quite complex. He always said the life of transmission was the fluid and the death was heat and friction. I saw him remove the clutches and helped him tear down those transmissions. So, there is break-in period for that new factory made transmission and they should have fresh fluid. These sealed transmissions are serviceable and I’ve done exactly what you did on my Tundra. I use full synthetic WS fluid from BG. I’ve never had any problems on dozens of cars I’ve serviced with BG full synthetic ATF. Much less expensive to replace a fluid and filter every 40-50k miles. You’re doing the best thing for your vehicle.
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I always conducted power steering flushes between 30-35,000. Noise full synthetic power steering fluid (3-4 quarts) to completely flush the system. I haven’t had one issue with the Toyotas and many other cars with this scheduled maintenance.
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@emort6 interior or exterior rust?
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@emort6 just as equally silly to state that flushes won’t prevent rust…😁 of course the rust is outside on those exposed metal surfaces. You just live somewhere in the rust or salt belt, that’s why. That typically requires a weekly water flush to remove the brine, but in your case with the age of your Tundra, you’ve gotten your money’s worth out of that rack and pinion.
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@emort6 it has that engine with those low tension rings. Toyota had a campaign after making those engines. If the previous owner didn’t reply to that campaign, then you got that problem. You’ve got a lot of miles on that engine though. Perhaps for you living in that part of the US flushing fluids might be expensive, but for those of us living in the SW part of the US where our Summer temperatures soaring beyond 100 ambient temperatures, it’s done to prolong the life of the vehicle and its components. Engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid and engine coolant are the lifeblood of any car. It’s the best and cheapest way to prolong life in any vehicle, not just a Toyota. As far as the rusted frames, Toyota replaced frames on many Tacomas and Tundras. I’m sure Toyota has dramatically improved their frame treatment procedures, but in the end. The owners must also bear responsibility for lack of service/maintenance. I’ve read many garages and owners apply these lamb or wool oil spray in the Fall just to deter that mess of road salts/brine used in the Winters. We don’t have that issue here in the Southwest….
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@emort6 I’m there and for me it’s not a waste of money at all. I’ve worked at a independent garage and out here with our heat, it means a huge difference. We have more synthetic fluids now on the market that tend to last much longer and have a higher operating temperature. Many problems can be addressed with simple preventative maintenance. What works for you will work for many there on VA, but it won’t work when the temperatures here reach well over 100F not to mentioned the strain on engines/transmissions.
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@emort6 As I have said before, that works for you there in VA, not here in be Southwest. Enough said
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