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CreeperOnYourHouse
Project Farm
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Comments by "CreeperOnYourHouse" (@CreeperOnYourHouse) on "Project Farm" channel.
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What kind of mixture ratios are you using for your cars?
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From research that I've done, MoS2 is a dry lubricant, so it's ideal for use in situations where there's no oil. An example would be when you start up your car after leaving it sitting, where normally oil has left the bearings, MoS2 will still provide a barrier between the metal parts.
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Try engine restorer oil additive, supposedly it puts a lining of copper and lead into the worn parts of the cylinder to decrease blowby.
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make an entire cylinder head out of JB weld.
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try ceratech oil additive? Also, where did you get the mechanism to control liquid flow?
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I recommended it too... Anyway, test how long it will last, maybe run a wire from the plug to the bolt, might increase performance as the spark can be hotter.
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Try to use ceratec from liqui-moly, allegedly they add white boron nitride nanoparticles which create a ceramic coating on engine pars.
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Try an IV drip of monster energy with the clear cylinder head, see how long it lasts.
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try ceratec from liquimoly on the engine, to fix the knock, or maybe try to run down another engine after using it.
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Itsa Mea what do you mean?
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Are you a bit sick? I can hear a bit of wear in your voice.
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How does engineered fuel compare to gas mixed in a 100:1 ratio of 2 stroke oil? A lot of the additive descriptions sounds just like 2 stroke oil mixed in.
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Hey, you have to consider that post-turbo, you had extra drag from those exhaust horns. Same top speed means more power here.
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Try water in the crankcase without motorkote.
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I think the issue with the lower samples is that the wood grain soaks up the glue when you apply it the way you did; need to add a bit, wait an hour, then apply the glue to need to hook it up. Or just apply copious amounts from the start.
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I think the big limiting factor was that the water/alcohol mix for Iso-HEET and K100 was 50/50, so you needed that much more fuel in order to burn in the air. It's like running a gas engine on a 32:1 air fuel mixture, but without the knocking. There's just not enough burning there to keep it going.
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Try Cera tech from liquimoly, it claims to cover the parts with a ceramic layer to prevent friction and direct contact between metal. It also says to fix cylinder scoring to make older engines work better with tighter tolerances.
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Not gonna try it in an engine?
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Restore the generator with engine restore. Try engine oil as diesel fuel in the generator. Try 2 stroke oil as a diesel fuel. Try 2 stroke mix gas as a diesel fuel. Any combination of the previous. Pretty much, try random combinations of fuel/things that aren't fuels to fuel the engine.
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Will you be testing cera tech/liquimoly?
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Maybe there would be less smoke if you tuned the choke.
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Compiled results of load test for ease of information comprehension (results, not time stamps) NGK (conventional plugs): 35:35 Autolite: 35:07 E3: 36:49 Pulstar: 36:57 Iridium: 36:31
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Lucas survived longer because the thicker oil stayed on the crankshaft/conrod, keeping it lubricated.
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A few years ago you tested motorkote, running water in an engine after motorkote treatment. Could you test motorkote in how in might improve engine efficiency/performance in the generator?
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I think the big problem is that the leaded gas doesn't vaporizes easily, so it clumps up, causing more buildup as it sticks to the inside of the engine..
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Can you compare graphite solid lubricant to HBN? (Hexagonal boron nitride)
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I think this is a wrong type of compression loss, the kind they're referring to is the kind resulting from sticking rings that are covered with carbon deposits.
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the yellow color is some dirt in the air. the gasoline was effectively acting as an air filter.
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what happened to diesel testing? Haven't seen that in a while.
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I have literally been looking for this test for the past half year, a practical test of an e3 plug. I couldn’t find anything remotely similar.
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Hey, so I was wondering if you could keep testing spark plugs? There are a lot of out-there designs advertised for performance spark plugs, and I think that your continued testing to establish their performance would definitely be appreciated (at least by me). Brisk spark plug sells at least 4 different unique spark plug designs alone, and there are other side electrode designs that would also be good to test out for their performance.
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The oil burning is probably due to bad PCV design. Maybe the tube is too narrow, keeping the air fast and allowing oil to stay in the air? Either way that clone engine sounds like a nightmare.
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Hey, price has gone up from 25 to 30 bucks for 10 quarts.
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It could be that it works better when in an engine that uses pressurised oil lubrication?
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What happened to the diesel generator engine you had?
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How do you get "generic" gasoline?
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There's a type of ignition called RCCI (reactivity controlled compression ignition), where diesel injection essentially acts as a spark plug to ignite gasoline, supposedly 60% thermal efficiency. I would like to know if this could be done on a small scale, likely with less efficiency, without advanced computer controls. A company called WSEPO makes diesel versions of the GX200/Predator, with a similar head design, so I was wondering if it'd be possible to put a carburetor from a predator engine on it and make a cheap and dirty RCCI engine by either throttling, or using a needle in the carb jet to regulate gasoline flow.
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I don't know, unfortunately. If it isn't, you could get a hold of a small diesel already in the USA and force-fit a carburetor from small engine to the same effect, though with a bit more difficulty getting it to fit right. It'd be interesting to find out if a high-tech combustion idea could be done with cheap low-tech stuff.
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I contacted the seller of the engine, here's their response: "thanks for your mail, this 3HP 196cc diesel engine only has CE certificate, no EPA. but we sent many pieces to US for their personal usage, no problem." They don't have EPA certification, but apparently they've had little issue sending it in the past to the USA.
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It was probably around the halfway point in its life, where it gets a bit of wear to thin out, but not enough use to boil off the lighter weight. Could probably go 2 years.
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