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IKhan
FCP Euro
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Comments by "IKhan" (@7477238) on "FCP Euro" channel.
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This is why FCP Euro is the best. I ordered a thermostat and spark plugs from you guys and everything was properly packaged and you had videos on how to do the work. Saved a good $700 thanks to FCP Euro.
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Haha this is too funny and true. I love those commercials that show a well dressed technician with goggles on easily servicing cars, it couldn't be further from that.
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Alrighty I got some new pads, rotors, jacks and tools. Now I just need a BMW F30 with an M Sport package :)
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Yeah the long oil change intervals are ridiculous on German cars. I change oil every 6 months or 7500 km. It's even more important now on modern cars to change oil more often than recommended since they're turbocharged, have smaller oil sumps and drive a lot more heat and stress since they're pushing a lot of HP per liter of displacement.
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Cesar Rivas Just a basic OBD 2 scanner from Innova. Any car parts store will have it and it works on cars from 1996 and higher. The scanner will scan any CEL code but certain error codes like some transmission errors will only be detected by shop level scanners at the dealer or independent mechanic shop. Once the scanner shows the code you can google the code to see what's wrong. Yeah the dealership quoted me $630 to have the thermostat replaced and I figured an independent would charge around 25% less but still for a damn thermostat that's still to expensive. Did it myself in an hour thanks to this video.
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Gareth and the rest of the team are awesome. I don't own a BMW with an 8 speed ZF but I'll watch anyway.
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I'm not looking to buy a Cayenne but watched any way. Great information and production value!
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@fredfrederickson For sure there are some preventative methods and the actual carbon cleaning procedure on most engines isn't daunting it just seems like the DFI engines slowly lose power even at the halfway point between carbon cleaning services. Case in point the Ecotec 5.3 and 6.2 V8s in GM big body SUVs and trucks have normally smooth running engines but as soon as they crack 20k miles they start to feel like they're stumbling at idle, rolling through a parking lot and at cold start and as soon as a carbon cleaning service is done it stops. Installing a catch can would help but it wouldn't really comply with warranty and by the time the warranty runs out so you can use one sometimes even the heads are so badly carboned up that they need to be removed and cleaned because they're so badly carboned up.
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I know that the transmission takes way more fluid (TC and cooler lines) but is a partial change done to prevent the transmission from slipping? I ask this because I did a full flush on a high mileage Toyota Camry and the transmission shifted really smooth but it was also slipping. Had to drain some fluid and pour in Lucas Stop Slip. My MB has 95k so I plan on doing this but should I do a full flush (TC and cooler) or just a partial like in this video?
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Would it make sense to use Ceratec with a Liqui Moly synthetic oil or can I use it with a brand of oil like Motul Xcess which is what I normally use?
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You 'da man. Thank you for taking the time to show how to do this job, I just ordered a thermostat and I'll tackle this next week on my C280. I have the P0128 code when I scanned the CEL.
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Came here because of the blooper reel video.
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Hello. Would this procedure be the same on a 2012 C300 W204? The blower fan has started to chirp when the heat is on and the fan is set to lower speeds. I've changed out the cabin air filter before and it generally looks to be the same on mine as the E Class.
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307k miles on that Benz. Amazing. My C300 is a spring chicken at 124k.
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Well of course they're trying to sell you something. That's what businesses do. The difference here is that I'm getting a ton of advice for free. It was only 15-20 years ago I had to go buy a Haynes manual and really decipher the guides. Videos here make it easy as can be.
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Yeah they've gone dual injection in some motors now. The I5 in the RS3 has 10 injectors so no chance at carbon buildup. I know one thing is for sure. Once I'm in the market for a new car I will make sure it's a dual injection type system.
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@fredfrederickson Carbon cleaning shouldn't be looped into doing things like oil changes, air filters and tune ups. Dual injection was brought out to solve an issue that should have never existed in the first place. PFI engines never had that issue.
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@fredfrederickson You sure about that? Because I've seen badly carboned up VW TSI motors and GM DFI motors as early as 20k. I work at a GM dealership and we get tons of BMW, Audi and Hyundai/Kia customers because we beat their dealership's prices on carbon cleaning services and while I won't complain as a Service Advisor I will call out this technology as more headache inducing versus beneficial. My non DFI Mercedes runs like a top and I've only done the basics like change spark plugs and cleaned the TB. No carbon to worry about.
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@fredfrederickson I'm aware of all of that but the fact remains that if all of that is required to circumvent the issues arising from DFI then was it really worth it in the end? Also, those high pressure injectors used in DFI motors are prone to failure. Look at the injectors used on BMW N54, N55 and N63 motors. They've gone through over 10 revisions and probably more to come. I won't deny that there are some incredible performers out there with DFI but let's not forget PFI motors like the GM LS and LT motors or Mercedes M113, M113K, M156 and M273 produced great power and torque but there was one big factor there. Reliability.
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@fredfrederickson Not everyone buys used cars without warranties to tinker with. They buy new cars with warranties for peace of mind and with the expectation that it will run well for at least the warranty period. While it's recommended to do carbon cleaning services within warranty which most customers agree to ($190 so good price) that's just for the intake valves. Heads can carbon up badly too and that can't be seen unless they're removed. This is why DFI is pointless and since the industry won't go back to PFI then dual injection would be the next best step along with better PCV design and dealerships need to use better oil that has a higher flash point especially in cars like the BMW 550i with the N63 motor that runs about as hot as a furnace.
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Yeah but I bet the DOD system is screwed up in your Caddy. No additive will fix that unless you delete the DOD and replace the cams and pushrods.
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