Youtube comments of V. Birchwood (@VBirchwood).
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EDIT: A lot of comments think I’m saying I can’t eat meat and there’s meat throughout the video. I can’t eat WHEAT. I'm also getting a lot of comments mentioning how most of the things here would not have been accurate for every day people and that is correct. At the start of the video, I mention how the 2 books I utilised for the recipes are primarily upperclass recipes. These are what wealthy medieval people would have consumed, not your every day people. Additionally, this is not meant to be a historically accurate representation of how medieval people lived or ate dinner. I'm not a historian nor a reenactor. Rather, this is meant to be a fun week of experimenting eating only medieval food, hence my careful wording of the title.
I’ve been planning this video for the past 6 months, and after 100 hours of work in total today is finally the day of release! I hope you all enjoy our adventure of exploring medieval food for an entire week. The cookbooks I used for the recipes can be found here, and it is an Amazon affilliate link so I earn a small commision on every order placed (I appreciate the support!): https://www.amazon.com/shop/v.birchwood/list/32F782WLSGWZ?ref_=aipsflist_aipsfv.birchwood
Additionally, if you'd like to support my channel further, no obligation to of course, but please consider becoming a Patron and get access to exclusive, behind-the-scenes content: https://www.patreon.com/vbirchwood
Also, a fun game to play along, take a sip of your preferred beverage every time one of us says “veg” or “vegetables” 😂
Thank you for watching and see you in two weeks for another video 😊
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Edit: I’m getting a little bit tired of having to explain why I censored the word miscarriage in this video. I do not believe miscarriage is something we need to censor, as it is a common occurrence and is a tragedy that should be openly spoken about (if an individual feels comfortable discussing their experience of course). YouTube does, however, have very unfair censorship regulations, and miscarriage is often a demonetised word. Demonitisation means a video doesn't get recommended as much, which in turn would cause people to miss out on this valuable educational content. I think it is vital that those who feel comfortable speak out about their experiences with miscarriage and related subjects, as no one should have to feel alone in such a situation. I had to make the difficult decision to censor the word not because it reflects my belief, but because I didn’t want the video to get suppressed and thus have many miss out on this important educational content. Please don’t leave rude replies about this in the comments section, and please consider my deeper reason for “why”, which is clearly not to suppress this tragic experience, rather to make sure as many people as possible can see this video, and thus benefit from its educational value.
Welcome to this channel's latest "500 Years of..." series! This week's video is a bit of a long one, but I think it's a well-worth-it watch as Kass McGann of Reconstructing History walks us through 500 years of maternity clothing!
TW: We will be talking about the sensitive subjects of infant mortality and miscarriage, so if these are triggering topics for you in any way, please SKIP the content between time stamps 25:40-26:33.
Thank you very much for watching.
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AD Download June's Journey for free now: https://cherrypick.gg/VBirchwood2025
Thank you so much for watching! I really enjoyed putting together this week-long experiment!
Also, I used hay instead of straw for this video as it was far more accessible to purchase, however, although Roberta Gilchrist mentions that the poorest people may have slept on hay or straw, hay is loved by rodents and would have probably attracted rats. According to the sources in the description, straw was generally changed every 1-3 months, so fresh stuffing would have been quite regular. Additionally, many people seem to think I just slept on the bale covered. That's incorrect. I spent about 30 minutes jumping on the hay, as well as moving it around with my hands on the outside of the cover to get the pieces to separate, and it spread out within the cover quite well. I often do these experiments in chunks, which is why I focused simply on getting the set up comfortable, and also experiencing a different array of options for how medieval people may have slept. This isn't the end of this experiment, and I intend to make future episodes that will try out other elements that I didn't cover in this video.
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Update: Thank you so much for your lovely comments! There have also been quite a few points made in the comments, as well as questions. I asked Laura for a statement to further expand upon the information she presents in the video, as well as clarify. Here's what she said:
"A little further elaboration:
It is very difficult to summarise Irish fashion in the 19th century. Not only do clothes (and more importantly their quality) change due to the socio-political context they are produced in, but there are also economic factors and geographical factors at play. To give a country-wide analysis of Irish fashion across a century which saw the rural poor experience famine, disease, and subsequent extreme poverty is virtually impossible. When discussing ‘the ire’ and soleless socks, being barefoot was very much a reality – one kept their shoes (if they had any) for Sundays or special occasions. But as we moved into and discussed the later 19th century, the use of footwear was increasing in rural Ireland. The likes of Burt’s Letters and Arthur Young and their accounts date to the much earlier 18th century and even William Makepeace Thackeray notes barefeet (particularly girls and women) on his tour in 1842 - over 40 years before the 1880s-1890s. Being barefoot continued in isolated communities into the early years of the 20th century – but does this reflect Ireland as a whole? Mairead Dunlevy notes in her work: Dress in Ireland: A History that the use of shoes reflected personal aspirations for a more comfortable situation - if you weren’t quite there yet you would certainly still wear your shoes for Sundays and special occasions.
Though madder-red was indeed popular, lichen aided in the wide range of colours that were prevalent in Ireland.
And finally in relation to the wool cloak, despite it being made of wool it was often worn day and night and often never washed – thus retaining dampness and infection, please see: A.T. Lucas, ‘The Hooded Cloak in Ireland in the 19th century’ for more.
For more sources see:
Rachel Sayers’ blog post: ‘Red, Red Women: a Red Galway Cloak and an Irish Colleen
A.T. Lucas, ‘Footwear in Ireland’
Congested District Board Annual Reports,
Bríd Mahon’s ‘Irish Dress’,
Caoimhin Ó Danachair’s ‘The Dress of the Irish’
and many, many more :)"
This entire project has been 6 months in the making, and here it is at last – the process of constructing an Irish working class ensemble from the late 1800s.
Also, if you watched part 1 – right after I recorded the audio for this video, we actually got some pretty revolutionary news about my father's biological father – his full name, ancestral background, and some bits about his life.
A big thanks to Laura Fitzachary for sharing her incredible wealth of knowledge with us all and thanks to all of you for your viewership (and patience). See you in 2 weeks for another video! 😊
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I've been feeling pretty tired this past couple of weeks, so here's an impromptu performance of "The Lowlands of Holland" played on the harmonium with singing.
No fancy editing, no fancy mics, just one take of practicing this song which I learned a day prior. Enjoy!
Some extra context about the performance:
I started playing harmonium when I was 9 or 10 years old. I learned it because of kirtan at the spiritual and meditation centre I went to with my father many Sundays. Until a few weeks ago, I hadn’t touched a harmonium in about 7 years, but it’s this common thread that has run through many major parts of my life. I felt drawn to share this intimate moment when I was rehearsing a new song in my kitchen I recently learned.
This is a (most likely) Scottish traditional song called “The Lowlands of Holland,” said to have originated during the Anglo-Dutch Wars in the 17th century, though it is also well-known throughout Ireland and England. The Ye Vagabonds version is one of my favourite songs.
When I was 18 I was houseless for a year and often lived in my car, and I would busk playing harmonium and singing. Now in my late 20s, the harmonium feels like a recollection of the full spectrum of my memories, some of the most blissful and also scariest times, acting as a sort of northern star.
I’m a professional singer and used to perform a couple of days a week before everything in our world changed a few years ago, so it feels wonderful to slowly get back into practicing music again. I started working on an EP 5 years ago and it’s actually nearly complete but I’ve had to shelve it for some years due to major life transitions and financial instability. I’m really hoping to release it next year once I have the ability to get into a better financial situation and finally save up the last bit of money.
Also, this is a new linen/cotton dress that I just finished hand-stitching last month! It’s based off a 1485 shift but I modified the sleeves with a fun little ties system to help create more texture to the garment 🥰 It took about 50 hours to make and it was worth every minute.
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I'm so sorry that people act like this and any hurt it's caused you ❤️ The part you write about people cannot/will not imagine Black women outside of their oppression really hits the nail on the head. I can't speak for Black folks of course, but from what I've seen amongst BIPOC in the community, wearing historical fashion is a great way to reclaim historical clothing styles of oppressors and it can be supremely empowering and even healing for some. It is 100% enough that you love pretty 1890s dress and feel good wearing it. That's all that should matter, and I think a lot of the other crap people say about "no civil rights" and such, is really just some form of internalised racism. And I totally hear you on white people making it incredibly difficult to wear precolonial Tsonga (and many other ethnic groups too) because of stealing and suppressing the information. It's enraging and I'm so, so sorry the world is like this.
You make incredibly important points too, I think, for the way that potentially many BIPOC feel.
I'm Tatar and my ancestors (recently) were colonised (and are still very much being colonised), and wearing European "upper class" fashions feels very empowering and shows how far my once very poor ancestors (who could only afford rags) have progressed. I'd love to be able to wear Tatar clothing more, but there's like literally 2 resources on the internet for it and they're not very all-encompassing, so it's yet again another ethnic group having their culture suppressed and stolen.
Anyways, long story short, I'm so very sorry and I'm sending virtual hugs 💕
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@eriquita3027 hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.
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I do indeed! This is my first time talking about it on here though. I plan to go more into depth about it in the future. I would say most OCD starts with thoughts, and then certain physical or mental compulsions have to be created because of the thoughts. In my case, it is more pure O, more so that the compulsions are mental and I mainly experience intense intrusive images that create deep dissociation/derealisation, and a slew of other things that comes along with that (like fatigue, brain fog, panic, anxiety, etc.) These days I'm doing much much better, even if still in recovery, but a couple of years ago it was debilitating and I could barely leave my home for 2-3 months due to the paralysing and crippling fear. It's important that accurate awareness is brought to the topic of OCD though, as it is so often a misconceived mental health condition.
Everyone is definitely facing their own things, and that's totally okay. I think it's important for us to approach others with compassion for that exact fact, because what's going on in a person's life is often so much more complex than how it seems on the surface.
I'm glad to hear you found the walking path peaceful! Your tarantula situation still sounds terrifying though lol.
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Thanks for your comment 😊 I think a lot of it is cultural as well. In Russia, for instance, it is often looked down upon to wear sweats or anything overly casual (especially things like spongebob PJs lol) to go out in public. While in America, this is more societally accepted. That's the other thing about judgment. It differs so much from place to place what you will get judged upon, depending on that society's own preconceived notions and perspectives. Just like, if I were wearing historical fashion 150 years ago, that would have been totally OK. I would have been mainstream. So it just goes to show that in many ways, judgement is inevitable, and in many ways, it is also an illusion. It is constantly shifting and changing, with cultures and periods of time. Even more reason to take it with a grain of salt 😊 It's great you've had conversations about sewing with people because of what you're wearing. It's always incredible when that's the outcome of wearing what you want to wear out and about. And it's wonderful to proudly wear the things you've sewn.
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I totally agree Neartmhor. Greenwashing is a massive thing, and so many essential oils for example really aren't safe for certain people (or pets as you say). It makes a lot of sense that you'd weigh the benefits/risks of your own products and decide what to use from there. Part of the reason I went with these Total Wardrobe Care Sachets is that they offer a bunch of different herbal blends. The one I have has no lavender, for instance, and has all oils in it that I personally know I can tolerate well. And definitely, if I had pets that would become a priority too.
I don't enjoy the labelling system on "chemical-free" products either, because, as you say, everything is technically a chemical, whether synthetic or organic. I personally use EWG Skin Deep to check all my products for toxicity level, because that's what I was introduced to way back when I was a teen and it's an incredibly invaluable resource.
Unfortunately "natural" and "chemical-free" have become major marketing ploys to get people to buy products now, but I also think the English language lacks other terminology that is concrete and to-the-point to describe these things. Hence why I also struggled to find the words to describe my own practices in a short period of time. Maybe "products free mostly from synthetic chemicals?" It just sounds so wordy haha 😂
I really appreciate your comment, however, and for looking out for me. It means a lot 😊
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Most would’ve worn 1-2 petticoats under the main skirt, so it’s unlikely that menstrual blood would have made it through to the final skirt layer (maybe with a heavier flow, but there’s also a theory that periods were lighter for the working class because of how much hard labour, the stress of poverty, the malnutrition). Additionally, with being such a thick wool, most wool skirts I’d say would be able to absorb a bit if it did get to that outer layer. It could potentially be a factor but also most darker colours, like black, brown, blue, etc. would hide the blood quite well. I wish we could go back in time and ask! Lol
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@DJMarcO138 here is an excerpt from a phys.org article published in 2019:
“Much is known of the medieval dietary practices of the nobility and ecclesiastical institutions, but less about what foods the medieval peasantry consumed.
The scarce historical documents that exist that tell us that medieval peasant ate meat, fish, dairy products, fruit and vegetables but there is little direct evidence for this.”
The article is about how for the first time they have more concrete evidence, stating, “The findings demonstrated that stews (or pottages) of meat (beef and mutton) and vegetables such as cabbage and leek, were the mainstay of the medieval peasant diet.
The research also showed that dairy products, likely the 'green cheeses' known to be eaten by the peasantry, also played an important role in their diet.”
But still, these are not well-defined recipes, as I used for this experiment. Sure, I could’ve thrown some best guess ingredients into a pot, but I wanted a week of food with more structure.
Generally only the wealthiest could read and write, and so their recipes got documented. A lot of knowing what medieval peasantry ate is guesswork or best estimates (or as this article states due to food residue, we now have a bit more information), but still not directly recorded recipes, like there is for the wealthiest of medieval society.
When comparing the structured and wide breadth of information regarding upperclass medieval food to that of medieval peasants, indeed, there is limited information on what the working class medieval people ate. Just because we have some information doesn’t mean we have a lot of information.
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Hi Pati!
Great timing then 😊
Definitely clothes tend to be thrown away a lot more now rather than mended, altered, etc. Historical clothes can be time consuming though to make and the materials and labour can sometimes be (understandably) expensive when buying them from other dressmakers, so I think that naturally makes one want to protect and take care of them as long as possible (at least that’s my experience but that could certainly be different for others).
Airing out is a great trick as you say, but yes try the vodka and let me know how it goes! It’s a funny use for an alcoholic drink 😂
I had a feeling someone would ask the underwear question haha! I’m amazed that it was the first comment 😉 if I am wearing split crotch drawers (as are typical with later Victorian styles) I do not, but sometimes just for my own comfort or if it’s my moon cycle then I will, though I try to choose something more natural and breathable like simple linen or cotton. It really just depends on if I’m going anywhere that day along with what the rest of the outfit is. I think within the historical costuming community generally there’s a mix of those who do and don’t wear contemporary underpants, and that’s just solely up to the personal comfort of each individual, as both options are very manageable. At least with all of the skirts though, you don’t typically get cold on the bottom half of your body, as long as there are enough layers.
Thanks so much for watching and for your comment 🥰
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Hi Rafael! I hear what you’re saying, and thanks for the compliments. I said this a bit tongue in cheek because I often speak in my other videos about how our perception of history is often very skewed due to survivorship bias. For photographs, only the wealthiest individuals could have paid to get their photos taken. And they would have most likely worn their nicest garments. For paintings, the artist could have had full creative liberty and also again only the wealthiest could have afforded a painting and would have likely worn their nicest garments. For extants, only the garments worn the least would have survived the test of time, and therefore it either likely would have been the most expensive garments or the ones that were worn and set aside. This is part of why also a lot of extants are so small, because larger garments would have been worn to shreds. I didn’t mean that we don’t have any semblance of an idea of what people wore, rather that our understanding is extremely limited and biased and doesn’t have a very clear depiction of what the majority of everyday people wore, because the majority of people were not upper class individuals. It’s very rare to find depictions of working class people, whether that’s paintings, photos, or extant garments. Some does exist, but far more upper class individuals are depicted, and so that’s the issue.
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Some people live very, very rurally and don’t have close access to charity shops, and perhaps can’t afford transport to get to their charity shops. Charity shops also aren’t super affordable in many parts of the world. The U.K. is very privileged to have great, cheap charity shops, but places I’ve been to in russia definitely don’t have these, and some areas are so rural that my family has lived in, that the nearest store is a 5 hour drive away. Charity shops also include many synthetic fibres, which will go to the landfill if not worn anyways, and wasting those synthetics would be a shame and also have an environmental impact. There are so many different scenarios.
Every single human in the world does “foolish” things at times, and that’s part of being human. We always all have room for improvement, but my own approach is to offer solutions and suggestions as education and then people ultimately have to go and make their own choices and decisions, which is the beauty of freewill. Additionally, I think it’s important to acknowledge where everyone is at and that it’s a process, but nothing to feel ashamed of. We are all in our own place in life, and that’s okay.
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Thank you so much Jay C. for the very thoughtful message and information, I appreciate it!
I'm actually Indigenous to the Ural region (I'm a Tatar) so I have a very deep respect for Indigenous practice and what Indigenous cultures and people can teach us all. Indigenous people have been nurturing, protecting, and responsibly sourcing from the land for centuries, and without them, we wouldn't have so much today.
The reason I didn't mention the Indigenous creation of "oil skin" as you write of is because my main focus of this video was just to share about my experience with waxed or oiled fabrics like wool, cotton, linen rather than the even more traditional forms of "oil skin". I think as well, it was a topic I felt was far, far beyond my scope of knowledge, as the main area I've researched has been 18th and 19th century European fashion. My apologies if you feel in any way that I've disrespected Indigenous culture by doing so, not my intention at all, especially considering how much being Indigenous plays a part in my own life and identity and the way I like to approach the world too.
Thanks so much for the beeswax trick as well! And I agree, linen is far superior over cotton, and the cloak I made in this video, in fact, is a linen/cotton blend as I try to always opt for linen over cotton if I can, especially in the case of helping to stay dry. Hot summers would be a nightmare without light weight wools and linen!
Thanks for watching and see you in a couple weeks for the next video!
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I'll have to try this honey suggestion, it sounds like fun 😊 I have heard of the mayonnaise technique actually as well! I can't recall where, but it does seem to really work for some, probably similar to how just raw egg works for some haha. Yeah, there's a lot of hypocrisy definitely in the mainstream assumption that the Victorians were foolish, etc. or didn't know anything, because even today we know so little. And oftentimes changes take a while on a systemic level because they have to go through so many different facets, that it's a time-consuming process. Also, some will choose money over safety, and this, in turn, creates challenges like asbestos being banned, and it still being used for another period of time, potentially harming numerous individuals. Only to find out later that it was due to profit gained, which is horribly tragic. Anyways, rant done. It always irks me when profit is chosen over people, for obvious reasons.
I hope you enjoy trying out some natural beauty! Definitely smart to wait for your chickens to start laying. This is definitely the perfect type of shampoo if you're homesteading, especially if you have both chickens and an orchard 😉
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Drafting your own patterns is a great way to go about things. I've actually been working on some blocks too, also following Bianca's tutorials, since it seems like a far more intuitive way to speed up the process in the future. The sleeve block is a brilliant idea, so thanks for that! It'll come in handy since you know how it is with historical, there's typically a recycling of similar sleeve shapes again and again throughout the different periods.
And honestly, who cares if it isn't HA. Sometimes contemporary techniques are great for making historical sewing more sewist-friendly and that's totally okay! But tailors would've kept blocks of their clients to build off of anyways, so my assumption is this contemporary technique of blocking had to have originated from some historical idea. I also really like draping techniques, like the ones traditionally used by historical dressmakers, but they require a really accurate dress form usually. I have a bootstrap pattern ready to use, just have to find the time to prioritise the dress form construction over garment construction 😅
Thanks for your comment Katherine, this information will really come in handy for others reading the comments section!
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Hi DesertRose! Thanks for your comment.
I answered the age question in the description box, but I'll just summarise here. Typically 18+ is recommended for corsetry, as I think there just isn't enough research on how it impacts the bodies of minors, since the body grows and develops even into our 20s. Because of that I've always just read 18+ is best, though I'd ask her doctor perhaps to see what they say. (Since I'm not a doctor, only saying this for legality reasons, because you KNOW I'm not a doctor 😂).
As for the busk alternative, you could do a combination of front, back, or both lacing, along with button or fastening closures, which you see on some later 19th century "health corsets". If you Google Victorian health corsets you should see examples of this style. Those ones are super convenient but I don't think you have as much control with them as you would with a busk and lacing. Though, I don't have a ton of experience with health corsets.
That's super cool that it helped with your cramps! I have a similar thing, I don't notice my cramps until the corset comes off often 😂Perhaps this is our secret remedy to menstrual pain haha.
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Hi Cadi, as I mentioned to the other person below, I fully believe miscarriage is something that needs to be discussed openly, as it is a common thing that happens to many tragically. It is, however, a word that YouTube demonetises and therefore I had to censor, otherwise the video would not get promoted or recommended to people, and the information would then get missed by many. I had to make the decision to censor the word, even though I never would want to, because of YouTube’s often unfair censorship rules. Please think and consider “why” I may have had to do this before reacting to it. I have the opposite of a Victorian attitude, and just because it is the clothing I wear, doesn’t mean it is my belief. Additionally, if you plan to post anymore rude comments like these, kindly unsubscribe to this channel. Thanks.
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Hi Cadi. I am not a traditionalist so I don't mind using more contemporary methods to do things like clothes washing, especially when they are done mindfully or purposefully. For example, I don't like to wash my clothes with just soap bars or liquid, as I am far more comfortable using sustainable products (even soap nuts for instance). Thanks for the heads up about Ecover. I guess they were bought up by a company that is bigger and does do animal testing, but Ecover itself doesn't. Luckily, I only use a couple of products of theirs, and the rest is from smaller, local brands. While I understand the ethical and sustainability concerns regarding the wearing of synthetics, I don't like to call anyone a "fool" because the reality is, a lot of us are just doing our very best, and many things have different sides to the coin. Many people, as well, cannot afford clothing made from natural fibres, in particular those who are living in poverty. That doesn't necessarily mean though that someone isn't taking care of their clothes. Where I take issue with synthetics is when someone does definitely have the finances to choose more ethical clothing, and instead, they go on thousand dollar fast-fashion shopping sprees. I try to take a compassionate approach with this all because you never know someone's story or their background. It's just about bringing more awareness to these issues and doing the very best we can with the resources and information we have (in my opinion). Thank you for your comment!
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Thanks for sharing your own personal experience and story! I have looked into deficiencies quite extensively with testing, as well as many different food sensitivities (I have quite a few actually, mainly just things in processed foods so they don't impact my weekly food challenges, hence why I don't even mention them in those videos. I've had them my entire life). I also am working with a fabulous holistic doctor who takes into account all of these possibilities. In my case, my chronic health issues are most likely due to actually being much better mentally because of my c-PTSD treatment. c-PTSD impacts the body somatically in many ways. I've found as I've been dissociated less, I've had an uptick in other chronic health issues due to being more present in my body. Things are coming up to be released (and this is what more than one of the professionals working with me believes as well). It still sucks, but a big part of it for me is just continuing forwards with my treatments and I feel I am on a very good path, it just takes time to heal. I also had some things going on with my tests, but that's all been resolved now through working with my holistic doctor. Not medical advice, but just my personal experience. I'm fortunate that I grew up around organic gardening and people practicing permaculture, so I've been very food aware since I was a child and eat a really nutrient-diverse diet :)
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Hi! This is a really interesting question, but I’m not sure I’m the most equipped to answer (and I’m sure every person would have a different response too). English isn’t technically my first language and I grew up in a very Russian/Tatar household (even though I was born in America). My Tatar grandmother helped to raise me and made sure I knew every day of my life that I am a Volga Tatar — she didn’t want me to forget it (which I’m grateful for). I spent many months throughout my lifetime in Bashkortostan where my family is from (neighbouring region to Tatarstan) but I grew up speaking Russian though, and not Tatar, which I’m learning now (a common experience amongst many Tatars).
Where I can perhaps relate is on my father’s side I know my ancestry is Ukrainian and Irish/Scottish. I have delved a bit into the fashions and heritage of both, because I am curious about what my ancestors would have worn. A big part of that is because my father was adopted so on that side I had very little connection to my ancestry until recently, so it’s been a fun and long-time-coming exploration. I can very much understand, however, how you’re feeling and all these feelings are totally valid!
I think sometimes cultural identity can be looked at in many ways. There’s the place we live and grow up in, and then there’s the places we are connected to through our ancestors. I think it’s a beautiful thing to connect with our ancestors regardless, as it can teach us so much about ourselves, and about what they may have sacrificed to get us to where we are today (what a beautiful thing!) And I think learning a new language is always a positive thing. Whether it’s to connect more with our own ancestry, or even just to connect more with others. I think that if connecting with your ancestry and languages brings you joy and gratitude, then that’s wonderful.
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I left a thorough comment about free bleeding on another thread so I’m copy and pasting it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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That is a misrepresentation of what I said. I mention that Irish fashion is very similar to English fashion (in general) probably due to the colonisation. I mentioned Northern English fashion separately and later on in the video, as the Northern English were (and still are) greatly impacted by Southern England and often in similar ways to Celtic nations. Ireland was arguably England’s first colony. To be fair though, whether or not the Irish are/were colonised is very debated amongst scholars, people, etc. With what I’ve read, however, and seeing the impact and pain that English influence has had over the Irish, I believe Ireland was colonised, in particular when I speak with the native Irish people I know (obviously they don’t represent all Irish people). This is also what the historical facts point towards.
Additionally, Ireland had a very rich and vibrant culture before English influence, a lot of which got lost due to what I believe is colonisation (as do many other historians, scholars, etc. though not all). So I felt it very important to word it in this way to pay homage to the rich cultural traditions that were lost. Ireland, even with everything it’s gone through, has still managed to keep some rich cultural traditions in some areas, but you see the impacts of this in many examples. One of them being how few people speak fluent Irish (Gaelic), which was certainly not the case historically.
Also, this has little to do with the everyday people of historical England, and much more to do with the governments and aristocracy. Most of the time everyday people just want to live their lives and I don’t feel that everyday people represent the actions of their governments or whoever is in power, and I believe this also applies historically.
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It is never a woman’s responsibility to “make men better.” It is the responsibility of the man (and any person of any gender) to make themselves “better” through self reflection, introspection, doing the deeper work, going to therapy. No one can do that work for us. Whatever a woman wears speaks nothing of her inherent worth. It doesn’t matter how “scantily clad” a woman is, she is still worthy of love, care, respect. This goes for all people too. Additionally, in a healthy relationship, there are no games. There doesn’t need to be because there’s a mutual understanding of respect and a willingness to work together and also do individual interpersonal work as well. None of this has anything to do with anyone’s clothing choices, and I encourage people who judge others based off of what they’re wearing (whatever it is) to turn that judgement back around on themselves and ask “where is this coming from? What deeper pain in me is reacting because of what I’m witnessing?” It’s all projection anyways and we each have the opportunity moment to moment when our inner judgements appear to instead hold up a mirror and reflect on where it comes from within. I find when I get into these states of internally judging others, the ultimate conclusion I come back to is in that moment I somehow don’t feel enough in myself. So then I start to work on ways to self soothe and get back to a state where I feel enough again. It rarely has anything to do with the other!
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Thanks so much for your comment, and I am terribly sorry that this happened to your grandfather and that it is an ancestral trauma that now lives on. It's just awful as well that people patronise you for speaking about this. I'm sure that must feel so heartbreaking. I just want you to know that I fully see and hear what you are saying, and that any feelings you have about your grandfather being forced to live in these conditions are totally valid.
I was taught many useful skills from my own mother and grandmother as well, as my grandmother grew up in such poor conditions in the Russian Federation that at times it was challenging for her to even buy shoes, so a life like that does certainly force one into being resourceful. Sadly though, this is the reality for many ethnic minorities in Russia, even to this day, and it's something I have witnessed extensively during my regular visits to Russia growing up. My mother's upbringing was an improvement because although problematic, many people experienced more financial stability during the later communist regime (it was obviously awful for a lot of reasons though in my opinion), but still, those conditions were nothing like what so many of us have in the Western world today. So although I do not know your exact pain, I can understand to some extent the hurt and sadness you must feel around your grandfather's treatment as I feel a lot of hurt around the treatment of my ancestors.
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@gildedgitta My pleasure! Ah you’re Finnish, I’m sure you are familiar with the situation then. There are actually some Tatars in Finland which I find cool. I once met a Tatar individual when I was in Finland, and they have their own dialect of the Tatar language there.
And yes you’re so right, history is never black and white. As you say, sometimes the most atrocious things can also potentially save a life or help someone in trouble, and we see this exemplified time and time again.
That misunderstanding of poor equals stupid, is a really tragic one, because so often it’s systemic or life circumstances. Many of us too could become poor at any time, that is what prior financial collapses show us, so it’s important to have compassion for people who are in that position in life. I actually lived in my car for a year when I was barely 18, so it can happen to most people, so we need to help eachother 💕
And thank you, I’m really glad I had that chance to learn useful skills from them as well. Many of them have come in handy.
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Thanks for sharing that about your experience with the hand crank machine! Hand cranks are a beautiful option, and they make you feel very close to your work. Plus so many of them can sew through things like leather, which electric machines can struggle with. It’s lovely that you’ve managed to find a compromise that can keep you sewing, regardless of what your disability might throw at you. That’s amazing 😊
Warm clothes are definitely a must, as you say, if you’re moving north. This petticoat would be a super excellent option for an extra layer of warmth, and just to trap in some of the heat closer to the body. I think your ideas of using a wind-proof fleece and a quilted one with wool batting are perfect for serving as a source of heat. Additionally, you might consider cotton moleskin. Though cotton isn’t always the warmest material, because moleskin is a fustian, I find it to be quite toasty, and can often be sourced for more affordable prices because of its prevalence.
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Thank you!!
I have wavy-curly hair naturally, and haven’t totally figured out yet how to properly take care of it, but I’m getting there. My hair in the intro is my day three natural waves when I do take care of it properly. Wash days usually take me about 2-3 hours so it’s a lot of work to care for. I haven’t used an egg wash in a while but I used to twice a month and loved it. I’m going to start again soon though as regular protein is healthy and important for wavy-curly hair. I use all natural hair products though. I start with a clarifying shampoo, sometimes twice for two total washes, and then use a leave in conditioner as a regular conditioner and then wash it out. It’s because I have low porosity but a lot of hair. My hair is medium in strand density. I brush my hair with the conditioner using a wet brush. Then once both shampoo and conditioner are thoroughly rinsed, I take my soaking wet hair and add a curl cream, brushing it through and using something called a “rake and shake” method with a curly hair brush. And then I also add in a hair gel and do the same. I take a silk towel and scrunch my hair to get the excess water out, then I diffuse or air dry. I have a lot of hair and it’s pretty long so the diffusing takes a lot of time. I also spray with a botanical natural hair spray when it’s a little bit drier. I keep my hair away when sleeping by either placing it in a braid and then a silk cap (sometimes just a braid if it’s day 6 or 7 before my wash day, as I normally wash my hair once a week), or I take a silk scrunchy and loosely tie it to the top of my head and then place all the excess hair into a silk cap. Hopefully that’s helpful! In a lot of the shots I have just brushed my curls out because they were at a later stage in the week and I didn’t feel like refreshing them with water, so I opted to brush them out instead.
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I wear them daily because they are far more practical for what I need them for. I unfortunately do know what pain and suffering is and have gone through my own fair share of it because I grew up financially unstable, had to work my butt off to get any type of stability in life, have had a lot of death in my life, and I’m an ethnic minority so my family and ancestors have gone through genocide, much like is happening all over the world today. I, for one, am glad that many in the world today don’t have to go through this same stuff and have lives where they can think about the more joyful things like making art. I’m grateful you’re appreciative about the sewing advice, but I also don’t think you know me, my life, my past, or who I am outside of the videos you’ve seen of me.
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I got into wearing it because it made sense alongside historical fashion, since most garments need a structural foundation and I’d say are the most comfortable to wear with coinciding undergarments. Now, the reason I got into wearing historical fashion is a number of things, the main ones being as an artistic outlet (wanting to wear walking art), for sustainability reasons (since I hand sew everything, it takes a long time and is arguably rather sustainable), for comfort and versatility (historical garments are surprisingly comfortable and versatile), and also just to get closer to knowing where my clothes come from. I’ve always been interested in where my food comes from and becoming closer to the growing practice by growing my own, homesteading, supporting local, etc., so with historical fashion and sewing my own clothes, it was a similar exploration and principle. And also just my love for the silhouettes and shapes in general.
I think the best thing to know about corsetry for those wanting to explore it is to save up the money to get a well-fitted custom corset, as it’ll greatly be worth its weight in gold. Also to be patient during the softening process (the first couple of weeks aren’t always an accurate representation of comfort), and also to get clear on what your intention is for wearing the corset. Is it for back support, creating a certain silhouette, comfort, stress support, etc.?
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That all sounds like a great plan! I highly recommend a Regency day dress as a simple starter project, as the silhouettes are super simple, etc. and it is all in one so it makes you feel proud and accomplished after you've made one 😊 To be fair, I completely understand the pressure for wanting to be historically accurate, but the reality is no one can be completely historically accurate ever because a lot of materials we have today aren't made the same as they used to be made, and all of us only have a small glimpse into what history was actually like for people, and portraits/extants are a limited view into what reality was. Therefore, we are all just interpreting history at the end of the day and trying to do as well as we can with the understanding we have. I always say just do your best with the knowledge you have in that moment, and that is more than enough! Hopefully, that can take some pressure off of you, as I know how that can feel.
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Yes that's extremely true, modern clothes have a number of their own mobility issues as well.
I think too that because upper classes tended to have so many different outfits for different occasions, they would have spent many time periods in various garments, each having an array of comfort level. Morning and day gowns, for instance, or anything that might be for at-home and left just for guest reception, would have been far more comfortable than something like an evening gown, which theoretically would have only been worn for a few hours at a party, or perhaps for an evening dinner, and then they'd probably switch to bed clothes or lounging clothes again. And then, of course, with working class folks it probably would have been a lot of comfort and practicality. I think it just stems from what we see depicted in the mainstream in film. Also perhaps due to the upright posture produced by the corset. But good posture isn't meant to be uncomfortable, in fact, it's meant to make us more comfortable in the long run.
Thanks so much for your compliments Otter! 😊 I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
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Parasols have been around for quite a while actually! Perhaps just not made of the materials they are today. A lot of these tips can also be applied to menswear. Other ones could be wearing flowy linen shirts (like 18th or 19th century mens shirts) and waistcoats as well. The only tips that I’d say wouldn’t apply to as many men (unless one enjoys wearing more feminine clothing) is the part about the skirts and also sleeve shape. Menswear sleeves were generally more plain, or they would be 2-piece, like the green redingote I’m wearing has. At least in the 1700s-1900s that was mostly the case. The rest of it does all apply 😊
Edit: now realising the insertion lace and flats tips don’t really apply (again unless that’s someone‘s personal preference). But still, choosing colour, matching sets, waistcoats, slip on or lace up boots, even curved heels (men were the first people to wear heels regularly, before women), high waists, high necklines, natural fibres, accessories, it all applies.
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Hi :) Thanks for your comment! I left a thorough response on another similar comment, so I'm copy and pasting it here:
"hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video."
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I think everything you are feeling is completely natural, and many others experience these feelings too! So just know you are not alone.
I certainly did for a long time as well, and still do feel these experience you describe sometimes and it was really therapy and reprogramming my thought habits that helped. I am obviously not a therapist and cannot give you mental health advice, but I must say, it's wonderful firstly that you have the awareness to recognise your responses, etc. That's really the first step.
Is there something you can tell yourself internally/mentally when the thought arises that creates the discomfort that can help remind you that the thought is just a thought and we are the ones that place meaning upon each thought? (Thoughts are trying to get our attention often times to protect us or keep us safe from a "perceived threat", which in this instance might be the very natural and primitive fear of rejection, and so in turn, the thought will get as loud and as noticeable as it possibly can (which includes being as absurd as possible sometimes), because it thinks then you will take notice and in turn keep yourself safe. In reality, it is more of an overreaction of the brain, as there isn't an actual physical life-threatening threat).
The thing I always tell myself internally, in particular when dealing with OCD, is "Hi Thought! Thank you for sharing that. Maybe it will happen, or maybe not. I don't know. And that's okay. You're just a thought. And I'll cross that bridge if/when it comes to it."
Hopefully, this helps. Thank you, as always, for your comment and for watching 😊
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Thank you!! I'm really glad you enjoyed the video.
My body was quite tired by the end of it (also due to the fact I've been going through some health issues). I jumped right back into my normal nutrient-dense foods afterwards though, as my body really just wanted lots of fresh veg, no more bread, no more sugar, etc. I'm not used to eating much bread nor sugar, and even grains I eat quite infrequently (I tend to eat a lot of protein and veg). Some of the spices were nice though, as I eat many spices in my own diet, just different ones (I eat a lot of smoked paprika, cumin, coriander, nutmeg, galangal, curry, ginger, turmeric, etc.) We also walked a lot throughout the week when we weren't filming, sometimes 20,000-25,000 steps a day. I'm a big walker/hiker in general.
I think by the end B was more OK than I was, as she eats more grains and bread in her usual diet than I do, but even she was ready for some fresh veg after haha.
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Thank you for your comment!
I just started making another pair today, and another commenter mentioned how I could cut the pieces on folds to have less seams (and in turn as well no crotch seam). The gores/gussets though I do believe would still be cut on the bias, because in the photo the stripes where they meet with the leg seam go diagonally. So for this pair I’m making today, I cut the gores on the fold with the fold on the straight of grain, meaning where they meet up with the leg seam at the front and back of the leg (not the inside) they’ll be on the bias there against the straight edge of the leg piece. I also cut the legs on the fold so the outer leg seam no longer exists. And finally, I cut the square insert piece on the fold, so they also have no seam inside anymore either, much like you describe!
Because I only had scraps for this project it wouldn’t have been possible anyways, but I love this new method for any future pairs I make because not only will it speed up the whole process, they’ll probably drape nicer too (and be more suitable for horse riding, though I don’t ride anymore haha)
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Thank you for watching and for your compliments!
You can absolutely do any of those things, as there are really no rules to something as creative as historical hand sewing, there are just guidelines. Because we are all just interpreting history, there is really no one answer to any of this.
As for it being longer than calf length, you can absolutely tailor the length to anything that works for you. Since this petticoat however was an "under petticoat" it wasn't the outer most petticoat or skirt, and therefore extants tend to show that it was on the shorter side in order to lessen the weight lower down at the legs. Some were cut though lower towards the ankles as well. The outer petticoat would have been cut longer, depending on the use, and would have been seen on the wearer, while the under petticoat demonstrated in this video would have been an undergarment.
I actually do recommend using at least 2cm+ width twill tape, as the twill tape I had was on the thinner side, but it was all I had available. Outer petticoats often were made with a band made from matching fabric, and under petticoats sometimes were too, so it's completely possible to use either tape or a strip of fabric made into a bias tape and then with twill tape ties attached to both ends for tying. The only thing is that because this shorter under petticoat was worn under stays, I hypothesise that a thinner waistband was preferred in order to increase comfort and reduce bulk (it had a very practical design).
I only used 1 metre of fabric for my own under petticoat because that's all I had available, but typically it was made with two metres (or even sometimes more but that's an entirely different discussion), one for each side of the petticoat, which would mean more pleating, a thicker petticoat, and more warmth in turn. It can be done either way and is completely up to you. Outer petticoats were usually made with two slits, one on each side where the panel seams meet. Since this is an under petticoat, however, one side (from what I can tell through extants) was usually preferred, and I believe this again was done to reduce bulk under the stays and to increase comfort.
The great thing about a simple garment like this is there is no one "right" way to do it, and it is completely customisable and can be personal to you. As is the case with most historical sewing! It's a very creative, solution-oriented practice.
Hope this helps and happy historical sewing! 😊
Oh! I thought I'd also add that if you do have two slits, one down each side, the way it would historically be tied is with two pairs of tape ties, so one on each side for each panel, and then the back panel ties would be tied towards the front and then the front panel ties would be brought to the back and tied towards the back. Then you can just tuck the ties in. Forgot to mention this :)
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@katherinemorelle7115 Hahahaha I'm happy to see that you are, indeed, a sunscreen nerd 😂 American sunscreens really do lack in many regards much of the time. In general too, the American cosmetics industry allows a number of ingredients that are banned throughout most of Europe and Japan, which just seems really odd. So yes, the FDA is stuck in 1980, as you said lol, for more than a few reasons. Normally physical sunscreens can leave a white sheen on me as well, but the one I feature in the video is the first one that doesn't, and it's a miracle. (I'm olive undertones as well, thanks to my Tatar grandmother). Everytime I've used a chemical/organic filtre as well in the past, it has broken me out in spots and rashes, so I stay far, far away now hahaha. It's awesome they work so well for you though, especially since they don't leave the sheen and seem in general easier to administer!
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Thank you for sharing your experience and perspective!
I find that my friends and family are the ones that accept me the most for how I am, because I’ve always been quite “alternative” and frankly most of them are too. So the fact that I sometimes feel isolated in society doesn’t change me wanting to wear historical fashion, because in reality I have felt isolated my entire life for one reason or another. So do so many people, even people who “fit in”. In fact, I’ve noticed sometimes it’s the people who “fit in” that can feel the most isolated, because perhaps they don’t feel they have strong self expression. Because of this, I’ve instead tried to strengthen and deepen my relationship with myself and my own authenticity because I’ve recognised for me that’s the path forward, and those who appreciate me as I am will recognise who I am, even if it takes some time to accept (I’m okay with that). What’s beautiful about the world is we have choice. This works for me, but certainly this wouldn’t work for everyone, and that’s okay too.
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Thank you! ❤️ it really is so similar to that lol.
I look at a lot of different sources. I tend to find certain motifs or objects again and again on eBay, in museum photos, portraits, film photographs, and antique magazines, and then usually it’ll spark my curiosity and I’ll go and research about the motif in a historical context. With the hazelnut brooch, for example, I couldn’t find anything online, so I thought it was a rare, probably not a trend type of piece. Then when I saw another one pop up on eBay, it became clear to me that it’s more likely these were more common than I originally suspected.
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Thank you!! Yes, I love these 500 years of videos too! Which is why I thought it'd be so fun to cover some of the ones I haven't seen yet with Kass 😊I am feeling more and more tempted to delve into 17th century now, after this chat haha. I'm sure you could come up with some really interesting 17th c. historybounds!
I think what Kass means is that while yes, the silhouette in the 1400s was to "look pregnant" due to it meaning you're "a good wife", etc., pretty much by the 1600s and beyond (really until probably the 1970s, and even still now in some areas), it became very, very taboo to be seen publicly as pregnant. Pregnant women were even censored on the TV in the 1970s still, Kass talks about this but I had to cut it out due to time. Our entire chat was over 2 hours, and I chopped it all down into 40 minutes.
So I don't think Kass is contradicting herself, as she didn't say it was never okay to be seen pregnant publicly (as in all throughout history), rather that it's only become recently okay again (societally-speaking). It's many hundreds of centuries that pregnant women have been confined away and hidden from the public, up until this point (at least in the west). Another interesting thing is that women are very rarely painted when pregnant in art throughout history. There are of course some, like the ones I included in this thumbnail, but it is really quite few and far between, and some of the Georgian/Victorian paintings especially were painted of a woman after she died in childbirth, likely to eternalise her, remember her, etc. So while in the 1400s the symbolism of appearing pregnant in paintings, done by the extensive quantities of gathered fabrics etc, was a popular thing, the actual act of being pregnant in paintings is quite uncommon. That's what makes paintings like "Portrait of an Unknown Lady" so remarkable.
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Thank you for your compliments and comment, An!
As for the wool question, it is definitely a warm bodice, I find that a lot of heat tends to escape from the back, so I typically like to interline bodices with a thin wool only for the back, though sometimes the front as well, depending on what might be okay with the bulk. Wool is honestly one of my favourite materials, and I find that even in weather in the 20s Celsius, it is still very easy to wear, especially because there can be so much variety between wool types. So I would highly recommend the material.
The sleeve mobility is perfect and I have full mobility. I always try to make my sleeves this way, because I actually wear these garments daily, so I want to wear creations with a more practical edge that I will actually feel comfortable in in the long term. As well for the elbow, I took out a little from the seam allowance there just to provide a little bit more mobility, which is a great trick to keep your arm bends comfortable.
Your sewing project sounds lovely and I hope it all goes very well! (Thanks for that other channel name as well, I’ll have to check them out). Looking forward to revealing the final ensemble!
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Thank you so much!
This is definitely a super important topic. As a Tatar, a big reason why I don’t wear Tatar historical fashion is because of lack of resources due to colonisation. I recently tracked down two amazing books on Tatar fashion but they are both rare, basically the only ones in print, and I had to order one from Turkey and the other from Russia (also quite expensive for books). Now finally I feel I have the resources to be able to recreate and wear my ethnic dress, but that was a lot of hoops to jump through just to get the knowledge. With Caucasian British/American fashions, they’re highly documented, they’re are tons of extants in museums, and many portraits, paintings, etc. There’s also quite a bit of money going to fund them. A lot of non-white ethnic groups don’t have that luxury sadly because of colonisation really and getting shoved into poorer areas of the world, and so perhaps only those who have their traditional dress passed down from generation to generation would still know how to wear and make it. I think this is similarly why we don’t see as much working class representation even amongst British and American historical fashions because there is an utter lack of resources to be able to study it and people are often more drawn to the pretty gowns and not the plain, everyday clothes (which I personally prefer as they make more sense for my lifestyle haha).
I love seeing some individuals from various ethnic groups reviving and wearing their historical fashions just as everyday wear, but definitely it’s few and far between. I think there would need to be a massive push from governments to preserve and search for information and resources about historical fashions of non-white ethnic groups in order for it to truly get revived, because essentially finding and teaching that information would need to be made a priority.
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Hey, thank you so much for your comment! I just wanted to reach out and let you know that you are not alone and to please keep seeking support. I know how hard it is to feel stuck in your healing process, even when you're doing all of the 'right" things, and I'm so so sorry you're going through this. It can feel so defeating. But at some point something will shift, just please don't stop seeking support.
I'm not a doctor of course so none of this is medical advice, but personally the therapies that helped me and majorly propelled my c-PTSD recovery were Internal Family Systems (IFS), EMDR, and Somatic Experiencing Therapy. There's a great book called "No Bad Parts" that is written by the person who created IFS, and there are guided exercises as well which have been very helpful to me (it's a very affordable book). There's also a wonderful Somatic Experiencing practitioner named Luis Mojica who runs Holistic Life Navigation, and he offers free somatic drop-ins through Zoom where he teaches Somatic Experiencing techniques. They're usually monthly. All of these resources have helped me a lot, but it also took finding an experienced therapist and I really connected with. All of the therapies I mentioned above have their own directories online.
I'm sending you so much kindness and care ❤️
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@CarolineElizabethMartin Thanks so much! Clog will help a ton. Do you use DaVinci to grade your colour? I found myself feeling extremely limited with Premiere not only for colour but for editing eventually too, and so I switched to DaVinci back last summer. I find LUTs just interact so much better in DaVinci and there are far more tools to make sure your colour info is as present as possible. Also boosting saturation using their colour web tool is helpful, and then if you notice one colour group is too bright, grouping those and decreasing those. For the shots sitting in my living room in this video, for instance, I took a LUT that had quite muted colours, and then on the colour web I boosted certain groups, especially greens for instance. I felt there was too much red though, so I decreased that and just made sure everything was within the graph when checking the scopes feature. I also almost always shoot at night with a studio lighting set up, so this helps a lot for consistent lighting between shots, and then also having a UV filtre for your camera can help a lot to make it more customisable.
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Thank you so much! I had purchased elf ears originally and paints, and ordered prosthetic glue, but the prosthetic glue never arrived sadly. I suppose it was for the best because I was sewing this ensemble up until the very last minute for the reveal, so having to worry about painting elf ears as well would have been even more stress haha.
Definitely so many things go into every single video, not to mention having to meet deadlines, loose some sleep, etc. lol, so I really appreciate the recognition for what goes into a single video!
All the needles made me nervous in the beginning, and I still generally stab myself at least a few times during a project, but I think I just am either used to it or have a high pain tolerance and don’t notice it nearly as much, and no longer feel working around needles all the time. I did step on a sewing needle a couple months ago though and that hurt A LOT as it went deep into my foot. That’s a rare occurrence though! Lol
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Thanks so much for the compliments and for the warm welcome back!
Initially, I hadn't totally decided if it would be a fold over collar (if it'd even work with such a thick wool) or a standing collar, so I only really determined what I wanted to do once it was sewn to the cartridge pleats. Ideally, I probably should have interlined it with a layer of horsehair canvas, but since I didn't, boning was my next solution. Some Victorian collars were boned rather than canvased, and then later on styles even had wire in them! So yeah, nothing fancy behind the reasoning, was just trying to correct a lapse of judgement really 😂
Thanks for the hair compliment! I didn't actually do anything special with it here. I just tied it into a wound bun and then pinned it a bunch, but I had my hair cut recently so it's been acting quite slippery and it came undone a bit. I think that's what made the braid look, but there's no actual braid there 😊
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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These are all very valid and understandable thoughts and feelings! I think that being authentic can be scary sometimes, because the reality is, you don't know how people will react to it. But at least in my experience, dressing the way I want to has not only allowed me to attract people into my life who truly deeply care about me as a person, the connections I have with people tend to be much deeper because we connect on a heart level, rather than because of appearances or some of the other social structures that are in place. Being yourself can be hard at times, but I think it's worth it because those who relate to you are drawn to you, and in those moments you can forge much more meaningful connections.
The way I see it too, no matter how "regular" or "different" we are in society, someone out there somewhere will take issue with how one is. It's natural for people to judge and some people take out their judgements on others, even if unfairly. I've found though, people are generally really excited and fascinated when seeing my clothes, because they are not only conversation starters, but also something I spent so much energy and effort to create. Other creatives tend to feel really drawn towards seeing what someone else creates, even if it is walking art in the form of clothing 😊
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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@kellysong2256 I left a thorough comment about free bleeding on another thread so I’m copy and pasting it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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If you read currently published articles on free bleeding, it is considered safe. Yes, blood of all types can spread disease, this is true, but many who free bleed will sit on towels, have it be caught by clothing, etc. Free bleeding doesn’t automatically mean unhygienic, unclean, and disease-ridden. It is also quite common for menstruating people in Indigenous communities to have a specialised area to gather during menstruation, for rest, to build community, to make things, etc. It would be very easy to just sit above rags or something to catch the free blood. This still qualifies it as free bleeding. I would highly recommend reading more about the practice as it is a diverse one.
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Hi! Thanks so much!
As for where to start, I can definitely understand that it feels so overwhelming. My recommendation would be to find a commercial historical pattern (Truly Victorian, Black Snail, Laughing Moon, Past Patterns, Reconstructing History are all some of my personal favourites, though I must disclose I am friends with the owner of Reconstructing History but my opinion is my own 😊) and then from there follow their instructions. They’re going to generally give the historical construction methods because that’s part of the pattern typically. If you’re just starting out too, I’d recommend completing a few simple foundational projects like a chemise, corset cover, and other undergarments (that aren’t corsetry) to get used to some of the methods and techniques, again utilising some commercial patterns. Once you have a feel for the process, you’ll then be able to move on to self drafting, or transferring patterns from grids, etc. and you’ll know which steps to take because you’ll learn the general process and notice similarities.
I hope that helps! That’s at least the way I learned how to make historical garments. And then also I’ve looked at some antiques which helps because you can see how dressmakers constructed them historically, but that first takes some prior experience which commercial patterns can offer
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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Hi Audri!
Thank you so much for the compliments!
The “9 things” video you mention was the very first video I released on my channel, so that’s likely why you missed it, as I had maybe 50 subscribers at the time of its airing! 😊
The white and gold dress I did not make, as at that point I had been sewing for maybe a total of 5 months, so I think I barely had the skills yet, even though I did start in Georgian clothes constructing.
It’s wonderful you ask, and certainly not off limits, about how to support your favourite creators here! Patreon is definitely a great way if the person has one, and some channels do accept donations too, and sometimes gifting materials can help but it’s best to ask each channel separately as it may be useful to some but perhaps not for others.
I think the reality of how it is for many artists now, especially those creating content and art for the internet, is that many of us work two full time jobs (myself included), the job that pays our bills and then usually our creative job (like making videos here on YouTube). Some people grow their channels enough to be able to make content creating their full time job, but it tends to be a very slow build. Because of that, you really have to love making the videos, etc. otherwise it’s very hard to keep up a channel in the long run because some days it can really feel very demotivating. Another great way though to support your favourite creators is some of them do sponsorships and if you like the product or service they’re supporting, consider purchasing it through the link they provide, as that will often show their sponsors that they’re “converting sales” so to speak.
Thanks for caring though and wanting to support us and give back to us creatives! 😊
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According to some of the comments here, many of the corsets were designed by Mr Pearl, who is a fabulous corsetiere, but he also mainly designs corsets for the red carpet, which I’d say are generally designed for the aesthetic and vanity aspect, rather than for support, comfort, and fit, which is the main purpose of corsets in a historical context. The extent of how many of the corsets he designed custom is a mystery. More than anything though, I wish the actors had the space to be able to speak up and tell someone if they were uncomfortable, but very often times that leads to the actor being called difficult or even blacklisting. I think that type of system is the big issue here. People should have the space to feel comfortable at work.
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Thank you so much! I think historical fashion and handsewing can bring to light a lot of important topics, and at least for me, it deeply aligned with my values as a Tibetan Buddhist — choosing clothing practices that are more mindful and present, being deeply connected with that which you create and make, being connected with nature and the need to protect the environment, protecting worker’s rights and supporting people in vulnerable positions, and finally living a life of authenticity regardless of external commentary. Historical fashion, and slow clothing practices in general, I believe can serve as a gateway to a more mindful and compassionate life. And in my case, as a Tatar, it also serves as a brilliant way for me to connect deeper with my ancestors. I’m grateful you entered the video with an open mind.
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Menstruation is unfortunately not even well documented amongst well-researched European countries (like Britain etc.) and it’s hard to find info, that I think it’d be near impossible to find info on Volga Tatar menstruation. It is very difficult to even find information on Volga Tatar clothing, which is part of why my research has been so slow. One of the two main books on the topic I own is out of print for instance, and I just happened to find a random copy online and got so lucky. This is very common amongst many Indigenous historical fashions due to what has happened over the many hundreds of years.
My guess, however, is they perhaps free bled into the ыштан. The wide cut creates a lot of excess material at the crotch that could catch blood, though of course flows vary greatly.
Within European historical fashion discussions, it is theorised that because pregnancy, nursing, and a very active lifestyle was so common, menstruation overall may have been lighter and less frequent. I wouldn’t be surprised if this theory carried over to the Volga Tatars who also lived very active lifestyles.
It is also possible to create a historical menstruation apron of sorts with a diaper weave linen and a wool, and I use them myself and they work very well! There’s no evidence though that Volga Tatars wore something similar which is why my first guess would be free bleeding.
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Welcome to the channel! Happy to have you here. Thanks so much for your kind comment. I think at the end of the day, we all should just wear what brings us joy, regardless of what is on-trend, etc. I'm glad that you express that you follow this as well, by wearing whatever it is that you enjoy. I'm not sure how many people wear full-on historical clothing daily, though I do know of at least a handful around the internet (and I'm sure more must exist outside of the internet), but historybounding or historically-inspired clothing has become madly popular in the past year or two, and people are finding incredibly clever ways to incorporate historical elements into their contemporary wardrobes, which I think is beautiful. I greatly appreciate you taking a look at this video and for your kind words about it, it means a lot to me, and finally thank you for the subscribe 😊
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@sixstringedthing I definitely do think some people may have gotten into historical costuming/historybounding because of cosplay. Also, I think reenactment events are commonly a way that someone might get into historical fashion. I've personally never been drawn to cosplay, though I can see why others are, as it does look like a lot of fun, especially if you really connect with a character. I've also never gone to any reenactment events. There are a number of reasons why I started wearing historical clothing a couple of years ago (I'm actually going to make a video explaining about this soon!) but one of the biggest was for sustainability reasons. I wanted to curate a wardrobe of quality clothing that I could mend/repair/alter and that would be made very slowly either by me, or by other independent dressmakers/crafters to try and reduce my footprint on this world as much as possible.
Absolutely though, the pandemic has probably opened people up to new worlds and new interests, which is a strange positive to come out of this otherwise very difficult and tragic situation. Also, I think people are just spending a lot more time on platforms like Youtube, which helps to get "obscure" niche videos more exposure, just due to sheer demand.
None of my own wearable wardrobe is antique (as I only collect antique clothes for study, as I just find them to be too risky to wear due to being difficult to clean and extremely delicate) but antique jewellry is an entirely different matter because of how sturdy it is. I'm happy to hear you'd be interested in seeing the jewellry collection, as this is definitely something I'd like to share in the future.
Thanks so much for your thoughtful comment :)
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Great to know! With regards to maternity corsets, they didn’t really have a specific name or even really design until the later Victorian period, as mostly corsets would sometimes just be made with those slide slits or breast feeding slits that would lace up. Sadly, there’s very limited resources on historical maternity corsetry/maternity wear, which is part of why I also really wanted to release this maternity wear video as it’s a topic that’s seriously lacking. My best recommendation would be to Google some articles written on maternity corsets, as you might be able to find some info there, but also be prepared to find some really hysterical articles that are a bit appalling (and generally not written by historians lol). Lightly boned jumps (an 18th century garment) are also really practical for maternity wear, as they offer a little support but aren’t tight.
I have seen a YouTube video of an individual wearing stays they made during pregnancy as well. If you search 18th Century Maternity Stays by Katherine Sewing on YT, you should be able to find it 😊 essentially all historical clothing pretty much had to be modifiable into maternity clothing, since pregnancy was such a natural and regular part of life for most women, so the majority of undergarments can be modified to accommodate pregnancy.
Thanks so much for your support and I appreciate your future Patronage already 😊 comments can definitely get overwhelming at times but I love interacting with everyone, so it’s worth it!
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Hi! I wrote a thorough response to this on another similar comment, so I’m copy and pasting here ☺️
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :) I should also add, I never said that it was the only reason free bleeding is frowned down upon in the video, rather that it is “a big part why.” There can of course be many other reasons as I don’t think anything in the world is ever caused by just one thing.
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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@lilaeia Thank you for your kind words! One thing you can do, especially if your finances are tight, is to thrift historically inspired items that mimic aspects of history but are secondhand or even contemporary designs. I'll have a video coming out in two Thursdays from now (the 29th) that gives tips about this, so hopefully that will help.
Re: the capsule wardrobe, I have pondered upon this before so it's funny you bring it, and I do think it's possible but you may have to stick to specific periods in history to keep it easy on yourself. While it is true that historically people wore a lot of matching sets, this is really only the case for the upperclasses and the working classes had a lot of simple mix-matched garments. I think this might be because some of it would've been passed down to multiple children. I'm not completely sure, but I feel like this could be a potential theory.
I would recommend for a capsule 18th century wardrobe to choose simple wool or linen bodices and petticoats in colours you enjoy, neutral tones are nice to have because they can easily be matched with other garments. For 19th century, you could choose a variety of shirtwaists and pleated petticoats in different colours and made from materials like wool and linen/cotton as these different materials and textures pair well together.
In general, just try to aim for some sort of bodice/shirtwaist and petticoat. For 18th century caracos are nice, and similar related bodices, and just a basic fitted bodice or a shirtwaist is ideal for 19th century. Most of all, try to keep it simple and get durable materials that you'll actually be comfortable in, because then you'll actually want to wear your wardrobe more often 😊Also, go with a sleeve length you like, and don't force yourself to wear a sleeve length that you're not comfortable in. For example, I really don't like 3/4 sleeves much like is seen a lot in the 18th century, but plenty of people were also wearing full length sleeves then, so I make all my 18th century garments pretty much with full length sleeves haha.
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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Thank you, Maia, for sharing all this! You're definitely right, there is so much possibility and opportunity to find love and acceptance, and sometimes in the most unexpected of places. It's a beautiful thing, and it makes all the risk in life worth it. I'm sorry to hear you experience depression (and all the challenges that come with it). I have a ton of empathy for what I imagine you're going through (without knowing first hand because, of course, I'm not in your shoes) due to my own mental health struggles, and they can just be so debilitating. So I wish you peace, recovery, strength, patience with yourself, and many other things. It's wonderful that you have that goal to hopefully work towards one day and always to stay focused on, in particular during your most difficult days. Sometimes just having a plan to do something in the future can make all the difference (along with having a support system that really cares and gets it). If you ever want to email and talk about it, just know that I am here and ready to listen (you can find my email on the About section of my channel 😊).
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I left a thorough comment about free bleeding on another thread so I’m copy and pasting it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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I very much do hear your points, and they are also why it's tremendously important to use discretion when choosing organic. I know a lot of the farmers I buy from firsthand, and know how they treat their crops and animals. Additionally, I live in Europe and here we actually have very regulated and high standards for what defines organic and what is and isn't allowed. Choosing farms that apply permaculture practices and regenerative practices furthers that, and in Europe my experience has been that organic food is often not that much more expensive than non-organic, and in some instances, it is actually cheaper.
Regarding organic not being able to feed everyone, I disagree with this. But it would require a tremendous mindset and practice shift in order to do so. Unlike in past history, we have certain knowledge of soil science and organic food production that people in the past didn't. Moreover, we have the technology to test things and see concrete data on how effective/ineffective some practices are. The western world just doesn't currently have a lot of these systems in place, and so that's why it would be such a big shift. The biggest thing to tackle, in my opinion, is biodiversity and soil health, two focuses which take some time and investment up front to implement, and therefore are not appealing in industrialised, factory farming settings, but in the long run they pay off greatly and can produce a massive abundance of organic food. I highly recommend the documentary "Kiss the Ground." It's beautiful at explaining this and even examples of how it has been implemented.
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@mranster I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here ☺️
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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Hi Audri!
Thanks for the compliments. As for how long I’ve sewn, it’s been since August 2020. My mother and grandmother both sew, so when I was a kid I could sew a straight stitch, but I never actually made anything with it. I just knew the basic stitch. Aside from that, I hadn’t done any sewing (and could barely even sew on a button) until August 2020, when I decided to jump into things and just go for it. I’m all self taught, just through resources here on the internet, which is part of why I also like to pass on useful information, because I assume others are in the same position and would like additional tips/techniques/products/etc. Mulberry Silks is great and I also recommend DeVere Yarns in the U.K. They have a silk embroidery floss which works beautifully as a hand sewing thread, and they have it available in 5 different thicknesses I believe, which is slightly more variety than Mulberry. I usually get the middle weight one for hand sewing, as I like my thread a bit thicker. DeVere Yarns are also a small business 😊 Let me know if there are any other U.K. based products you’re looking for, and I can tell you where I usually buy mine (as I try to buy from small businesses whenever possible).
I greatly appreciate your support!
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I've responded to quite a few other similar comments, so I am copying and pasting my prior response here :)
"Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video."
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Thank you for the interest in my dress and videos! 😊
My ancestors, the Volga Tatars, have been heavily colonised (and still are being colonised to this day). Very little of our culture, language, and historical fashion knowledge remains. For instance, neither I nor my mother learned the Tatar language, yet my grandmother speaks it. It wasn't very safe for my mother to learn Tatar. Because of situations like this, I had to work with two hard to find books and examine many photos and words in the books to drape/draft the pattern myself based off of my findings. I won't be making the pattern public, because to me the garment is extremely sacred. It's some of the little remaining connection that us Volga Tatars have to our historical ancestors. I would, however, give the knowledge and any patterns I make for free to other Tatars.
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I left a thorough comment about free bleeding on another thread so I’m copy and pasting it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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I left a thorough comment about free bleeding on another thread so I’m copy and pasting it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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It's so, so important that people know their worth as creators/artists! And it makes me incredibly sad that people feel they have to undervalue their work because of a societal structure that tells them they won't do well if their prices aren't incredibly affordable. I love a good deal, just like the next person, but undervaluing ones work has devastating impacts. I oftentimes though don't even think it's the responsibility of the creator/artist to put a worthwhile price tag on their craft. That's just a piece of the puzzle. Rather, it's a much needed mindset shift in our world, where craftsmanship and repair/alteration culture makes a comeback. There are, of course, times where someone may not be able to afford high quality items with a price tag to reflect this, so in those instances I don't feel there needs to be this pressure, but for those who can afford bespoke items (even if it means saving and calculating cost-per-wear), it's so important that we value our artists and quality craftsmanship with fair wages.
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Hi! I wrote a thorough response to a similar comment so I’m copy and pasting here ☺️
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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I've replied to this type of comment a bunch of times before, so I am copying and pasting a prior response here :) Also quite a few people who freebleed in the comments have given their experiences as well as what the process actually consists of (learning your cervical signals, etc.) I think it's important in life to keep an open mind.
"Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video."
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@thedayaftertomorrow5950 Great to know! I would recommend searching regularly on platforms like Depop, Vinted, eBay, Oxfam (online), as well as brick and mortar shops like charity stores, antique markets, vintage markets, estate sales (all sorts of things being sold for cheap at these). If doesn't even have to be true vintage, but just finding items that can mimick the cut or style could be very helpful. Also, don't be afraid of separates. If you find a waistcoat and trousers separately that you like, don't be afraid to mix and match 😊
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I wrote a thorough response on another comment about free bleeding, so I will copy and paste it here :)
“hi all on this thread! I appreciate all your thoughts on this topic.
I’m also a frequent menstrual cup user by the way, and love them.
Here are some of my thoughts on the free bleeding discussion:
Firstly, what qualifies as free-bleeding differs a lot. Healthline gives the definition that I do in this video, and also mentions that things like sitting above a towel (or a cloth equivalent) is still free bleeding, as is just letting a garment that isn’t specifically designed for menstruation absorb the blood. They mention that free bleeding is generally safe, especially if practiced responsibly. 100% yes blood carries diseases. Like all bodily fluids. There’s no denying that. And people of the past were deeply intelligent. Hunter-gatherer societies are deeply intelligent and innovative. I believe for those who might free bleed, they likely have methods of making sure it is as clean and as safe as possible. There are accounts of some Indigenous societies where anyone menstruating would gather in community together as a time for connection, etc. In which case there could also have been designated areas for free bleeding, which could also potentially make it safer as those areas could be regularly cleaned. The Guardian article I link in my “further reading” section mentions one such example of gathering during menstruation.
Additionally, as others have mentioned, so many factors may equate to fewer or lighter periods on average, for instance, breastfeeding, frequent pregnancy, malnourishment, and also intense amounts of exercise. So there’s a potential that periods become fewer and lighter for some. As I also mention in my video, free bleeding is a personal choice and is absolutely not for everyone. I personally don’t think, for instance, it would be for me, but I have friends who love it. There are also some individuals in the comments who free bleed and mentioned their positive experiences.
I just wanted to express my thoughts on the matter in greater depth, as I don’t feel I elaborated enough in my video.”
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