Comments by "crazypj" (@1crazypj) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. I think any 'improvements' would only apply on engines without O2 sensors? It looks like fuel injection is seeing a lean mixture or 'higher' air density so adding fuel giving worse fuel efficiency.
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  2.  @GSimpsonOAM  Your missing the point I was trying to make. A carb will deliver fuel based on airflow BUT fuel injection has oxygen sensors that monitor amount of O2 in exhaust gas. If 'brain' finds too much oxygen it adds more fuel. A carb CAN'T do that so will in effect run slightly lean with the same sized jets. O2 sensors are very simple devices that monitor voltage between 0.1v and 0.9v in reality even though theory says 0 to 1. If you ever want to test operation use a propane 'torch and you will get odd readings as it is a different fuel to where O2 sensor was calibrated but you can still see voltage or resistance changes (depending on type of sensor) Early fuel injection systems may not have had O2 sensors ( 1980's and earlier) but everything more modern will have at least one sensor
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  3. I agree with that, did a lot of Stihl motors when working at a hire company. I still have the extra long Stihl torx in my tool chest (and the carb adjusting screwdriver that came with them new), found it again a few days ago looking for something completely different (don't get into tools much since retiring)
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  4.  @AlvaroGonzalez_Andor  I'll definitely agree with carrying tools up or down. Had to work on some equipment that was 170ft underground in an underground reservoir, the access was by vertical ladder which wasn't much fun with 80lbs of tools
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  5. If you can find a Snap-On truck on your travels, it's worth getting a repair kit. (although prices can be a shock) Finding a garage or shop that has a tool truck every week then knowing when it will arrive can be handy.
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  6.  @wed110197  If you check flame speed, HHO is hundreds of times faster than gasoline so even if there isn't an O2 sensor (mentioned by someone) there may be a knock sensor causing fuel to be added to slow down the burn? HHO should make burn more complete although there are other cheaper ways to get same result. Exhaust gas would be measured during development with a specific CO, CO2, NO, and unburned hydrocarbons. Feeding HHO will change the values expected by any monitoring system
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  7.  @w1ndexcheese  I was a motorcycle tech and motorcycle instructor not a chemist of physicist but understand what your saying. It's been several years since I did any research on HHO and my conclusion at the time was it wasn't worth the effort. The theory is, Browns gas having a faster flame front plus a more complete burn will ignite fuel that otherwise would go out the exhaust as un-burned hydrocarbons. Maybe it was true in the 1940's,50's,60's when combustion chamber design was pretty poor but a modern industrial engine (almost any gas or diesel engine) is designed for specific operating rpm efficiency and in my experience pretty good at doing so (I also worked on various diesel and stationary industrial engines for 8 years) EPA is indirectly responsible for normal production engines now producing well over 100BHP/litre (often closer to 150bhp/litre normally aspirated and much higher with forced induction) If you can burn 'all' the fuel in a given cycle you often use less or get a higher output with the same amount as an earlier design. (although Nitrogen compound levels get much higher when combustion temperature increases-acid rain?) Even into the 1990's it was thought 75/bhp/litre was 'good' and 100'bhp for 'race' engines only (or 1hp /cu/inch in USA.) Due to design improvements, even those numbers can easily be ' beaten' by 1960's designs which were often pretty bad being made for ease of production rather than performance.
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  8. Good to know as I need a new chainsaw (still cleaning up from Hurricane Ian last September 😒)
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  9. In my opinion, Stihl should be giving you a major donation from their advertising budget with no strings attached. Do you think the Chinese saws will break in and give better performance? (or will they be 'disposable' after a few months?) Could be the build quality and tolerances are not so great? It's pretty well known to keep costs low China kinda makes a kit if parts that often need fine adjustments and 'tuning'
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  10. Same here for majority of products tested.
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  11.  @hoss3433  Yep, I've watched the documentary video about the inventor. I believe you can also fit a resistor to change the values from O2 sensor although I've forgotten how to work out the values required.
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  12.  @Discretesignals  no idea what you mean? O2 sensors supply between 0.1 and 0.9 volts to ECU depending on amount of O2 in exhaust gas.(although in theory, between zero and one volt) They are either 2 or 3 wire although I haven't seen a 2 wire in years. Electronic fuel injection will probably be part of full ECU setting ignition timing, rpm, etc (as sensors have become 'smarter' and 'faster' probably monitoring other functions (been available since at least 2010 on small production motorcycles/scooters, one sensor covering what took 3 previously, TPS,MAF,IAT)
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  13. Until it breaks I had mine fail a couple of times when I was using it daily in shop environment even though I never fitted larger than 10mm (3/8") socket on it Always switched to 3/8" drive for 11 to 17mm, 1/2" up to 36mm and breaker bar after that (or even breaker bar when loosening anything over 26mm - roughly 1")
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  14. One thing I would like to see, a follow up on availability of service parts and repair parts? I kinda knew the Stihl would be on top and having experience with Stihl also know you can get cylinder/piston kits, crankshafts and seals to rebuild the motor plus new clutch etc. Double the price is worth it for something that isn't 'disposable' I doubt the same is available for the cheaper brands but would be interesting to find out about support? Husqvarna used to have a real good reputation (30 years ago) but I have no idea what they are like now? Thanks for the testing.
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  15.  @markm0000  if you can find one that fits
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  16. I'm slowly working my way through your video 'back catalogue. I modify 1970's motorcycle carbs and found several years ago the float height needs adjusting to lower fuel level in float bowl . Due to ethanol's lower density the fuel doesn't 'shut off' at the correct height and being higher level in various jets/orifices makes motors run quite rich usually getting much worse fuel consumption (and lower power)
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  17.  @ProjectFarm  Oh, it's probably why you were getting an orange flame during combustion with the E10. Most 'industrial engines have very few if any adjustments though so re-setting float level may not be possible (none of the Briggs & Stratton and Kohler motors I use have float adjustment)' New and improved' isn't always true, particularly if you like to 'tinker'
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  18. I have two of the 1/4" drive sets, one inch, the other metric with the round head ratchet. (forget when I bought them, several years ago) Both seem fine to me unless I'm trying to get the sheet metal screws out of back of dryer or washing machine (probably because screws are not particularly well formed?) I have had to add 3" extensions but there is space in the cases. Main problem I've had is the ratchets switch direction too easily and the heads rust up and seize, that's probably my fault for having them sit for years at a time without being used
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  19.  @dazaspc  My half inch drive Britool is probably 50 years old and still works fine. Only thing that broke was the roll pin to change ratchet direction. (probably around 1986~7? when I worked at a Suzuki/Yamaha dealers) I'll get around to fixing it one day when it gets annoying enough (although I rarely used 1/2" drive last 20 years except on motorcycle rear axle nuts) I use multiple 1/4" drive ratchets as well, just saves time and prevents sockets rolling around. Gedore made some really nice stuff but I don't have much left after some London C*** stole most of my tools from shop years ago
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  20.  @godzillas6301  I don't remember Halfords sockets being much good in 12 point? Around 1980, I bought a 36mm half inch drive socket to use on BMW motorcycle swing arm nut (adjust bearings, I was working at dealers) It cracked first time I tried to use it so it got welded back together and got job done. Couldn't return it so welded it a bit more, turned it back to shape to fit better in frame pocket and still have it today. It hasn't been used since around 2008 but friend with BMW R90 needed to borrow it and it worked fine for him
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  21. That was really interesting. I'll probably watch it a few more times as some of the tests wouldn't be relevant to my use (High voltage scares me!) Only ever done work at one electrical sub station and will be more than happy not to ever go into another one.
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  22. None of them lost the 'magic smoke' but disappointing none reached rated load. At least it showed rope isn't generally as strong as wire of same rating.
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  23. I'd heard about mothballs in fuel, maybe it did better with 1960's fuel? Interesting about the 'B12' composition. . Around 12~13 years ago I read about adding between 2~3% acetone to fuel as a performance booster (more than 3% doesn't work although I forget why) A friend tried it in carburetted motorcycle and claims there was a noticeable increase in performance. (1970's sub 400cc four-stroke road tested new at 91mph) It was noticeably faster acceleration even compared to my 1995 600cc bike (although that may also be due to the way he abused it?) There even seemed to be an improvement when E10 was introduced. I have no idea how you could test this though without going to a racetrack/drag strip. Maybe one of your more than 2 million subscribers has anecdotal 'evidence'?
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  24. If I know I'll need to swap sockets a lot, I generally have sizes 'loaded' onto different ratchets
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  25. That was just as interesting to see where the bolts failed. The surface treatments (or lack of) changing the torque failure point. In Air Cooled Volkswagen tuning book I read ? years ago it recommended fitting thread inserts to increase strength of crankcases. In effect, your fitting a larger diameter bolt or stud which will dramatically increase load capacity of the magnesium alloy cases. Most people I know who prefer to use Timeserts, do so because they are very forgiving when drilling and tapping isn't done very well. It seems a little known fact but Timeserts are also available copper plated for use in aluminium cylinder head spark plug hole repairs, better heat transference plus lower corrosion. I was very interested in the Helicoil vs helicoil copy, the different grade of stainless steel used obviously has an effect on the friction between bolt threads and insert (also the price drop since I bought an 8mm kit in 1981, around £160 back then in Britain) Thank you for a very interesting comparison test.
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  26. I bought an unknown unbranded set of metric 6 point impact sockets about 50 years ago. The 14mm is the only one that shows any wear. (it had a ton of use in 15~20 years) I replaced it with a Snap-On 14mm that was excessively worn and looked about same as original after only 2~3 years. Even though I was working in a shop at the time, I didn't think it was worth the money I paid for it plus, as it was impact, it only had 90 day warranty. Ever since that fiasco, I've bought the cheapest impact sockets I can get as even the 3/8" drive ones seem to work just as well as sockets costing more individually than the several sets I've bought. The only 'problem' I've ever had is 'tool snobs', either co-workers or customers who watch too much TV and see Snap-On toolboxes in movies
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  27. I'm impressed with the tests you invent. I thought the German screwdrivers would come out top and Vessel better than it actually did. I still buy Vessel as they are the easiest to get for JIS screws on older Japanese motorcycles (most switched to Allen head or 7~8mm bolt heads in the 80's) Thanks for another fascinating video
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  28. That's a good idea, we are in Florida with a small lake opposite which has 'dead' area's where mosquitos can (and probably do?) breed. City put aerators in a few years ago but I don't think any fish have returned? Maybe the frog population helps keep amount of larvae down?
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  29. In Britain we would call them pincers rather than pliers. I usually get cheapish drop forged vanadium ones, re-harden jaws and grind them down closer to a flush cut (you don't mind doing things like that when your younger, 'experimenting' and broke) I've been recommending Knipex since 1980's, even the hard wire wire cutters I bought in 1989 are still going strong as I doubt they have ever seen more than 150~160lbs on handles (probably mentioned same when you did lineman pliers?) I bought them because I couldn't snap the handle or break rivet which had happened on a few 'known brands' when gripping (probably got a lot less grip than 40 yeats ago though)
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  30. That was interesting finding. I expected the big end of rod to fail as it relies on splash lubrication and anything 'thick just can't get in there before things get worn. One you missed though, many people put stainless steel screws into aluminium engine cases. I would be interested to see a Teflon based compound used. Thanks for spending so much time to make a very interesting video.
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  31. I do exactly the same when I see 1/4" drive ratchets as you know they will break eventually and generally when 1/4" drive is all you can use. Although I also have Snap-On and Facom I don't carry them around to relatives when 'fixing stuff'
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  32.  @kevrides5706  I have in the past, particularly in a shop where you need the tool NOW, not next week. Sucks paying for repair kits but it helps keep you busy
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  33.  @ReddawG1990  Use diesel, cheapest way to clean and lubricate in one go 😁
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  34. Thank you, that was a really useful vid. I have a DC welder so may just try it out on some deep cycle batteries I have In Florida, (and probably several other states) heat is the biggest 'killer' of batteries so battery life is shorter than cooler places. I have rarely got more than 4 years even on '72 month' batteries (no one sells these in Florida nowadays) Usual life is 2 to 3 years, way less on motorcycle batteries. When I lived in Britain, 6 or 7 years was normal lifespan of motorcycle batteries, I never kept a car that long so never changed a car battery
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  35. About 30 years ago when I was mountain biking I bought a Wilkinson Sword pruning saw to remove dangerous branches and clear trails of fallen stuff. It had a lot of use even cutting branches up to 8" or so fallen across trails Been thinking of replacing it as it's not as sharp as it was but still works OK around yard. If I was to start biking again I would go for the Corona as it's definitely cheap enough
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  36. I just watched a video on history of Jerry cans and this came up next. The most expensive one is closest to the original Jerry can design including a vent tube but it seems the modern 'invention' of being spill proof is a retrograde step making them way less convenient. I'm kinda glad I bought various fuel cans 20 years or so ago before the safety nazi's got hold of things
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  37. Personally, I think it was better like that as that's how 'we' use them
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  38. The 'dancing jackstands' were hilarious.. I bought some Ultrafire batteries several years ago when I knew nothing about 18650 batteries, they were junk even back then
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  39. Where did you get Mobil 1 for $25? I'm in central Florida and it's about $38.00. Great comparisons though as I've used Super Tech in other vehicles. I've used Mobil 1 in my little pick up since about 6,000 miles. It's now around 114,000 and still runs 'like new' (possibly better than new?) Looks like it's worth trying the High Mileage version. Thanks
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  40.  @corbintrubov  LOL, 😆
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  41.  @sigmahyperion955  That's been my issue with Snap-On independent dealers, they used to be around every week but now it's a guessing game (particularly as I no longer work at a shop or dealership) Even when guy was supposed to be in office every day (when I worked at MMI) he would only turn up few days a week for an hour or two
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  42.  @eclipsegst9419  Good to know. I have a 3/8" drive 'quick release ratchet that was discontinued probably 40 years ago. I'll keep it in truck and see what Snap-On say next time I see one
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  43.  @tebo2770  You are very lucky and your Snap-On dealer probably has a large number of shops he services which allows him to give a discount to regular customers (and probably has half-million dollars of tools on hand that he's already paid for)
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  44. After looking through comments and making several replies to various people, I realise I spend probably more time reading and replying on your channel than any other on You-Tube ( I have an opinion and ain't scared to use it 😁) Sometimes I even have experience with things you test (but not very often) That's a pretty good test, 1/4" drive ratchets are always an issue and professional mechanics must have at least 3~4 as you never know when one will break From experience, I would go with the Proto or, one you didn't test, Facom. Snap-On are pretty good but way over priced for what you actually get (I still have several in different drive sizes, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") 1/4" drive Facom I bought around 1980 is still going strong. Lucky for me, (?) I'm now retired so don't need to have professional grade tools any longer but still take interest in what may be available Thanks.
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  45. What a great test, bravo for the rechargeable's, six years is a very long time for any non research unit to be carrying out tests.(it's a long time for any tests by anyone, I would give you at least eleven out of ten. With Trump taxation, all are going to be more expensive next year so stock up for Christmas if you have kids I've always found SANYO to be very reliable and last several years, even the old style in 1990 (I think they are the Eneloop?) I have some eneloops that are at least 12 years old, I got them when I bought my first Go-Pro. Capacity is reduced but they still take a charge and work which is quite surprising. Personally, I hate Duracell and Energizer batteries. Neither has particularly good sealing in items that use very little current where batteries stay in place a year or more. I've had some quite expensive multi meters destroyed due to expensive batteries leaking. Energizer sent me a 10% off coupon when I complained, I never used it as I don't want any more leaky batteries. Now, I almost always use cheapest I can get, I would rather change a dead battery than buy a new meter so for me, batteries that don't leak are the most important. Assembled in USA is a marketing gimmick, batteries are probably made elsewhere and painted in USA (or some such nonsense) It means less than 49% USA 'parts' but I forget minimum before it isn't allowed to say assembled.
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  46. I guess the Briggs and Stratton made in China is the reason they are so terrible? I have one on a mower, the connecting rod big end bearing was made under-size, so, instead of fixing it, they just left big end cap bolts loose. (something I have seen multiple times on B&S motors, even in the 1990's) I had more than 10 years working on Honda 'industrial' engines,(at a hire company) they are reliable and will cope with a LOT of abuse. The hardest working ones were used on 'floor saws' (14"¬18"diamond blade for cutting concrete or roadways) Very often I would be on site and the air filters had been removed as they were completely blocked with dust. The motors would keep running even with the piston rings less than a quarter of the original width. Gas tanks were re-filled with motor running as operators knew if it was stopped it would be impossible to re-start (usually that's when I got called in to 'fix' it)
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  47.  @agrofix7779  I bought a Geodore 3/8" drive about 45 years ago when I was running a motorcycle dealer workshop. It hasn't been calibrated for over 10 years now though, I can't remember the last time I actually used it but on last calibration it was only about 2% low for most of the range (on a Snap On torque test bench, LOL) I haven't done any engine building for years.
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  48.  @gregoryv.zimansr4031  That's been my experience with expensive tools. 🙄 It helps when it's from someone that the thieves haven't heard of although Facom is becoming better known in USA last few years
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  49. To state 'Made in USA' item has to contain a minimum of 47% parts actually made in USA. (or maybe 49%? I forget) If percentage is lower it can only say 'Assembled in USA' Around 2008 Harley Davidson sales suffered when they switched to 'Assembled in USA' which is the only reason I'm aware of the difference. The lack of run time is the reason I don't have a working cordless drill any longer, even with Lifepo batteries run time is too short and the older technology cells have way too many issues.I found it a waste of money having a cordless even with multiple battery packs
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  50. Very nice video. I feel vindicated for buying Knipex extended handle cutters in 1989 plus really glad I didn't waste money on Snap-On. Quite surprised how well the cheaper brands did on your testing. thank you .
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